Thank you for a good channel. I grew up with 950-59,880-69,995-72, in Sweden They always worked, it was just to refuel and drive, there was no reason to unscrew the tractor. Therefore, it is extra interesting to see the inside on a David Brown tractor / Kent.
many thanks for viewing, I'm so pleased you enjoy the video's, As you say they appear to be prity boom proof machines, this one was running on about 1/2 pint of oil and rest was sludge in the bottom of the sump but we still managed to save it. Many thanks Barry
thank you for this tutorial kind sir. I was just wondering, where could i find the black rubber gasket that you can see at 41:07? my grandfather asked me for help as he can't find this part to replace it on his 990. thank you!
Hi Vladu, do you mean the round oil seal inset in the hole or do you mean the large paper gasket that was coated with wellseal on the face of the casting, the seal was bought from Barcley Williams in the UK and the paper gasket I made my self, hope this helps Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 Hi again and thank you for getting back to me so quick. It's the black round oil seal i'm after. I'll give the guys from barcley williams a call. Would you mind telling me what to ask for specifically? or should i just say i'm after a pto oils seal? thank you again and good luck!
Nice to See the rebuild off your DAVID BROWN tractor . Nice to follow you . Where in uk are you.. you have a New subcriber now to your Channel. I do a massey ferguson 65 mrk2 here in the moment . I put a link to you so you can See . Thanks so much . Michell. NORWAY 😊🚜👍
Hi Barry. The gasket between the top link sensing unit and the PTO housing is made from a thin sheet of aluminium. There is one for sale on eBay if you want to see what it looks like. I sealed mine with Hylomar blue. There is no paper gasket there.
Hi David, just had another look at mine, look like someone's been at it with a hammer, don't understand why the center section that covers the opening at the top to the PTO would be so out of shape. Barry
Hi Barry, great video, very informative for someone like me with no background in this kind of thing. Can I ask a daft/ basic question, the studs that hold the PTO back plate to the main housing, what size are they? The tractor I’ve got has 1 stud, 1 missing, and 2 bolts which I assume have been put in as replacements at some point. It would be great to know what the official spec should be, so I can sort it out. I know it’s not 3/8ths, and by my measurement it looks like 10mm, but that can’t be right can it? Mines a 1974 DB 995. Thanks.
Hi Ian, it's listed as having 11X 7/16"UNCx1-7/8" bolts go to drive.google.com/file/d/1TSFsiXWe3OHdlxP6_1aR87hd98cXZzAI/view?usp=sharing and download the cylinder block and covers file, near the bottom, it's an exploded diagram of the 995 PTO and the bolts are item no 31 part no K600605 good luck Barry
I do t know if you’ll think I’m taking advantage of your generous help! But, I’ve successfully replaced my missing PTO backplate studs, which also involved a full oil drain, new sump gasket, general clean up, new PTO back plate gasket. And I felt quite happy with that, because this is all new territory to me! But I now find that my PTO gear lever is very loose and wants to fall down and engage the PTO into gear. None of my efforts opened up the PTO, I’ve just done the oil change and back plate tidy up. I’ve watched your video all the way through, but I don’t see a section where I’d expect to see some kind of spring or tension system to prevent the PTO falling into gear. Did I miss something. Any thoughts you’d be willing to share? I was thinking I have to take the toplink link section of the PTO housing, but to be honest there’s a field to be mowed and baled, so may need to deal with this problem another day and fix up something less than ideal to get me past the summer.
@@ianlighting100 Hi Ian go to video #21 at 34minutes, it shows me trying to refit the detent into the selector rail, it's a small ball bearing that fits into the bronse selector and a spring. hope this helps Many thanks Barry
@@ianlighting100 Hi Ian, not sure what happened but i replied to your comment yesterday and today the replies not there, lets hope this one works, if you watch video 21 at 34 minutes it shows me putting the detent back in for the selector in the PTO, it's vert fiddly and the ball and the spring fit into the bronze cast piece which makes it a little more difficult, hope this finds it's way to you and that it helps, lets know what the problemwas many thanks Barry
Ever done work on a Howard Series E rotovator. I’m in Pennsylvania USA. The Bearing behind the top cogwheel driving the chain is damaged. I don’t think I can get it in USA. Any Advice. Thanks
Meant to ask - the 4 lower studs that hold the back cover on - are they into blind holes in the PTO housing? I may need to remove my studs when I come to refit my PTO guard and wondered if I would need to drain the back end oil if they are through holes.
Morning David, yes I found mine this morning in the shed and as you say it'll get a drop of hylomar on it when it goes back together, The four studs are open holes, so it may be worth waiting until your hydro oil is due for a change or you could try jacking the back of the tractor up high enough to get the hydro to flow forward, minimising your oil loss. many thanks Barry
Excellent work and ID of the bearings, thankyou! Do it well do it once !
Hi Ross totally agree
many thanks
Barry
Thank you for a good channel. I grew up with 950-59,880-69,995-72, in Sweden They always worked, it was just to refuel and drive, there was no reason to unscrew the tractor. Therefore, it is extra interesting to see the inside on a David Brown tractor / Kent.
many thanks for viewing, I'm so pleased you enjoy the video's, As you say they appear to be prity boom proof machines, this one was running on about 1/2 pint of oil and rest was sludge in the bottom of the sump but we still managed to save it.
Many thanks
Barry
thank you for this tutorial kind sir.
I was just wondering, where could i find the black rubber gasket that you can see at 41:07?
my grandfather asked me for help as he can't find this part to replace it on his 990. thank you!
Hi Vladu, do you mean the round oil seal inset in the hole or do you mean the large paper gasket that was coated with wellseal on the face of the casting, the seal was bought from Barcley Williams in the UK and the paper gasket I made my self,
hope this helps
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 Hi again and thank you for getting back to me so quick. It's the black round oil seal i'm after. I'll give the guys from barcley williams a call. Would you mind telling me what to ask for specifically? or should i just say i'm after a pto oils seal? thank you again and good luck!
@@vladuroset Hi Vladu it's part number K11119 oil seal
Stuart at Barcley Williams will know exactly what youre needing
Nice to See the rebuild off your DAVID BROWN tractor . Nice to follow you . Where in uk are you.. you have a New subcriber now to your Channel. I do a massey ferguson 65 mrk2 here in the moment . I put a link to you so you can See . Thanks so much . Michell. NORWAY 😊🚜👍
Hi Michell, We're in Northuumberland, I see your doing a brilliant job of your tractor, keep up the good work
Barry
Hi Barry. The gasket between the top link sensing unit and the PTO housing is made from a thin sheet of aluminium. There is one for sale on eBay if you want to see what it looks like. I sealed mine with Hylomar blue. There is no paper gasket there.
Hi David, just had another look at mine, look like someone's been at it with a hammer, don't understand why the center section that covers the opening at the top to the PTO would be so out of shape.
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 No, me either. Fortunately, an easy part to make if your old one is beyond repair.
Hi Barry, great video, very informative for someone like me with no background in this kind of thing. Can I ask a daft/ basic question, the studs that hold the PTO back plate to the main housing, what size are they? The tractor I’ve got has 1 stud, 1 missing, and 2 bolts which I assume have been put in as replacements at some point. It would be great to know what the official spec should be, so I can sort it out. I know it’s not 3/8ths, and by my measurement it looks like 10mm, but that can’t be right can it?
Mines a 1974 DB 995. Thanks.
Hi Ian, it's listed as having 11X 7/16"UNCx1-7/8" bolts go to
drive.google.com/file/d/1TSFsiXWe3OHdlxP6_1aR87hd98cXZzAI/view?usp=sharing
and download the cylinder block and covers file, near the bottom, it's an exploded diagram of the 995 PTO and the bolts are item no 31
part no K600605
good luck
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 thank you, very helpful.
I do t know if you’ll think I’m taking advantage of your generous help! But, I’ve successfully replaced my missing PTO backplate studs, which also involved a full oil drain, new sump gasket, general clean up, new PTO back plate gasket. And I felt quite happy with that, because this is all new territory to me! But I now find that my PTO gear lever is very loose and wants to fall down and engage the PTO into gear. None of my efforts opened up the PTO, I’ve just done the oil change and back plate tidy up. I’ve watched your video all the way through, but I don’t see a section where I’d expect to see some kind of spring or tension system to prevent the PTO falling into gear. Did I miss something. Any thoughts you’d be willing to share? I was thinking I have to take the toplink link section of the PTO housing, but to be honest there’s a field to be mowed and baled, so may need to deal with this problem another day and fix up something less than ideal to get me past the summer.
@@ianlighting100 Hi Ian go to video #21 at 34minutes, it shows me trying to refit the detent into the selector rail, it's a small ball bearing that fits into the bronse selector and a spring. hope this helps
Many thanks
Barry
@@ianlighting100 Hi Ian, not sure what happened but i replied to your comment yesterday and today the replies not there, lets hope this one works, if you watch video 21 at 34 minutes it shows me putting the detent back in for the selector in the PTO, it's vert fiddly and the ball and the spring fit into the bronze cast piece which makes it a little more difficult, hope this finds it's way to you and that it helps, lets know what the problemwas
many thanks
Barry
Ever done work on a Howard Series E rotovator. I’m in Pennsylvania USA. The Bearing behind the top cogwheel driving the chain is damaged. I don’t think I can get it in USA. Any Advice. Thanks
Hi Brian no mate never worked on one of them, sorry couldn't be of help this time.
many thanks
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 thanks Barry I have someone getting the bearing in UK 🇬🇧. LUCKILY
Meant to ask - the 4 lower studs that hold the back cover on - are they into blind holes in the PTO housing? I may need to remove my studs when I come to refit my PTO guard and wondered if I would need to drain the back end oil if they are through holes.
Morning David, yes I found mine this morning in the shed and as you say it'll get a drop of hylomar on it when it goes back together, The four studs are open holes, so it may be worth waiting until your hydro oil is due for a change or you could try jacking the back of the tractor up high enough to get the hydro to flow forward, minimising your oil loss.
many thanks
Barry