So much more pertinent information than other sources. I now realize why some of my applications have not gone as well as I expected! Thanks for the video.
Such a straightforward and comprehensive tutorial. I hope I never have to use it to repair my boat. But at least I'm in with a chance now of making a half reasonable job if the worst happens. Thanks Tom and Dave - stars both of you.
I simply wouldn't be able to do the work on my boat that I do without this stuff. Once you tackle the first few jobs and get used to how it works, it gets easier and easier. And peeling off peel ply is more satisfying than popping bubble wrap. And, yes, big patch on first. I've had so many debates on this subject - good to hear it straight from the manufacturer.
Currently 345 to 2 which shows you how awesome Tom puts together these videos with his team and what a brilliant choice it was to team up with the UK West System folks. Occasionally I buy a different product for certain applications but far and away I use more West System than any other. Bob's Your Uncle.
Loved this; have used epoxy but not really with much confidence, now I know process clearer / how - inner geek satisfied - brilliant video, and the mention of beer 😁 Thanks!
Best ever masterclass on using West System, thank you gents. I have a few small spots on my boat needing attention and this video, could not have been better timed, thank you Tom, thank you David.
He did a great job of covering the fundamentals in a short amount of time. He mentioned how fine some of the filler is. It'd be a good idea to wear a dust mask any time the filler container is open.
Great stuff Tom! I have just put transom,stringers and floor (deck) into old free fiberglass boat using West Systems Epoxy! I am a retired baker not experienced with fiberglass but lots of good info on RUclips such as this video.Epoxy is not cheap but I think it does the best job.Viewer in Western Canada! CHEERS
Even though we're buying a steel narrowboat next month we found this fascinating. We don't have the courage to go on a sailing boat but we love watching your vlogs
I have been using West System since the mid '90s, sand took two coutrses in Polymers while studying to be a Technology Education Teacher, and I learned a bunch. Thank you, and well done.
Very good video with lots of interesting information..One thing he didn't cover was how to clean the pumps if you have only used them for one or two pumps .
What a great instructional video. I've watched a demonstration of this some time ago but forgotten more than I'd learnt. This is a great reference video and I also know where to go for the kit! Well done Tom.
My wooden clinker dinghy is entirely held together with this stuff. Seems good to me, but it's my first boat. It seems as strong or stronger than the wood itself. I've put quite a few scarf joints in it.
Very informational video! I'm working on our sailboat doing a bit of repair and recreating some pieces that are no longer serviceable. So many great tips I'm going to need to watch it again just to absorb all of the info. Thanks so much!
Thank you Dave and Tom! I've been using West System on my 35 foot center cockpit cutter for 30 years ! It's truly remarkable how many various applications WS can be used! ⛵🇺🇸
I must write to Sailing Uma and Sail Life and tell’em they are putting their patches on upside down. But again, you remind me of my own ancient history. In 1978 I graduated with my Chemistry degree and knocked on the door of international paints in Newcastle. No comment on my degree but they thought I’d do better in the sales team based near Wessex in Romney. So I went down there for an interview. Coincidence or what? But dad convinced me that there was no money in sailing and so I took the BlueStar ship management job and sailed the world. Navigating and learning. It could have been great!
Thanks for watching the video and for your response Nigel. It was a great team effort working with Tom and also Steve who filmed and edited. It is a point of huge and fascinating discussion ( Q. GRP repairs large/small patch first ) and answered by lab testing and pure logic. Firstly conducting a repair to an appropriately prepared polyester GRP boat with epoxy yields maximum adhesion compared with the use of the (polyester) resin it might have been originally built with, that’s where our lab testing is useful. Polyester resin has good, but not astounding secondary bonding characteristics yet yields excellent results when used in a reactive bond such as the lamination of a boat hull. Chopped Strand Mat doesn’t function too well with epoxy as it is unable to break the emulsion binder of readily available CSM ( it does work marginally better with powder bound CSM ). If a GRP repair was conducted with polyester and CSM then the random nature and the short 50mm length fibres of the CSM would make little difference as to the order of the patches. With structurally stronger and higher adhesion epoxy we tend to advise the use of superior strength Bi Axial fabrics ( +/- 45° stitched glass ). So applying the largest patch first yields the maximum continuous contact surface and uninterrupted fibre length when applied to the repair bevel ( we suggest 12:1 minimum ). It is also wise to measure the thickness of the hull and create a cutting pattern for the patches. Each 100g of fibre weight equating to app .1mm ( or 1/10th of a mm ) of finished thickness. Undoubtedly there will be some overfill of the repair that will require machining, With the largest patch applied first each patch will only have end fibres protruding around the perimeter of the repair. Consequently, the act of machining/grinding will maintain far more straight and continuous bi axial fibres throughout the epoxy/glass repair. It is quite feasible to effect a repair with the taper both inside and outside if the laminate is substantial. A long answer to a relatively short question I know, but hope you understand the logical and scientific explanation. Thanks again. Best regards. David.
Excellent coverage of a diy repair topic, though I was hoping for a minute or two in The Three Tons. You can also use WS for tricky/tight repairs using a variety of “dowels”-wood or metal-of myriad sizes. They’re excellent for establishing correct alignment of two pieces/surfaces. 👍
Very informative. No mention of the chemical fumes. How harmful are the newer resin and hardener fumes. My experience from painting is the hardener is the most toxic. What about these products?
I was tentative using West Systems at first, having watched people on YT being nervous using it. But I found it nice and reasonably easy to use. The ambient temp is quite critical and can make a big difference, but on the whole it is rather like using hide glues in a lot of ways. I'm a big fan. Great vid Tom.
I'm currently basically bathing in west system epoxy since I'm refitting a lovely little (29') gaff cutter which hopefully I'll be able to launch and enjoy before the summer is over ... so this video is quite timely! :)
bathing in it is a real bad idea, as your body builds up toxicity to it. I have old friends that cannot go near the stuff now as they get bad rashes & get sick if they do. (I was a polyester resin boat builder & did not have the same issues).
@@calthorp Haha .. I hear you. Of course I was being a bit facetious. I certainly try *not* to bathe in it and be as careful as possible, always wear protective gloves and clothing etc. But it seems that no matter how careful you try to handle the stuff, sometimes a mess or two can happen when you're using it frequently. Thanks for the reminder though. :)
@@sauter1 Yes nasty stuff for your body to absorb. I only use Epoxy when I have to, As most things can be done with polyester, its cheaper & far easy to use.
I would suggest using the black heavy-duty neoprene version of those gloves...they're maybe 30-50% more, but are way more durable...never needed to double up and never had them rip. If you want to make it easier to put gloves on, especially if your hands a sweaty, dry as much sweat with a paper towel, then dab a bit of baby powder on your hands.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Good question! It was West System 855 Cleaning Solution. More about it here: wessexresins.co.uk/west-system/cleaning-products/855-cleaning-solution/
Very useful skills very well explained, thanks to you both, great stuff indeed. I never realized that the size of the mixing container affected the curing time. All that knowledge will be put to good use 💥👍🏻⛵️ Any chance of a Part Two, covering correct application of fairly large pieces of glass mat, chopstrand, and related cloths along with ‘how to’ suggestions for larger repairs on wood and fiberglass boats? This was mentioned here but only very briefly, I’m sure you could easily fill an entire episode with this info., there are so many typical repair situations that could be covered. Also - do they offer a product that cures underwater, as some other suppliers do? That’s another skill well worth learning about. Just ideas, thanks Tom ☺️
Perhaps I missed something, but understood that one can't put epoxy onto sodden wet wood as it will drive the water about and not adhere well - but what about slight dampness - say on a piece of new ply which got damp and one is building a corner from it (90 degree bond) - and there is, say, rain humidity in the air in a garage - does the presence of water adversely effect the use of the epoxy - does the wood have to be reasonably dry or bone dry? Thanks for the video.
Great production, I have been using WS for ever, since it came out. My next project is revamping a Teak deck on a Oyster 435. Trying to make up my mind to use WS205 or WS655 any ideas.
Can you put polyester gel coat over epoxy patch really? I have done hundreds of these epoxy patches for osmosis repair and always was taught to paint them. For osmosis repair using polyester was taught to grind from both sides of the glass making a sort of rivet shaped fill which could be gelcoated. Love to know your opinion on polyester gelcoat attaching to epoxy, I thought it wouldn't attach, and if it can, well what a fantastic time saver. As a boat labourer I have spent hundreds of hours grafting with angle grinders and would really like to know !
Thanks for watching the video and for your response Mike. It was a great team effort working with Tom and also Steve who filmed and edited. It is perfectly feasible to conduct an Epoxy laminate repair and then follow up with colour-matched polyester gelcoat; there are a number of factors that affect a successful job however. It’s essential that this is conducted only above the waterline. It’s essential that the epoxy is well cured for a period of 5-7 days ( much less with professional heat lamps ). It is essential that the surface of the epoxy repair is, clean, dry, free from any surface contamination and scrupulously abraded with 80 grit minimum aluminium oxide paper. In summary (for GRP repairs) it’s essential that the polyester gel coat bonds to an unreactive, fully cured and well prepared surface…….after all gelcoat will cure if you spill any and will bond tenaciously to the floor or your shoes! We have conducted a wealth of adhesion testing to qualify this process. GBI in the US have their own occasional publication www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/applying-polyester-gelcoat-over-epoxy/ Very pleased to hear that you are using the correct materials and methods for a hull that may have been damaged due to osmotic blistering or delamination. For underwater repairs we always suggest an epoxy repair be finished with at least 4 coats of epoxy. There may be instances where the thickness of the hull or location of a repair requires grinding from both sides, again a perfectly feasible solution. There are numerous manuals that are very explanatory on our website. Thanks again Mike. Best regards David.
I made the mistake of 5 pumps on one and 1 on the other. I was lucky that nothing hardened and I could rip all of the glass off and just start again. I won't make that mistake again...
if you have problems with reactions to epoxy use what I do, Bote Cote epoxy. Water based and perfect on every level. It's an Australian made epoxy and it's cheaper than West System and no nasty reactions, smell and cleaning up is with water. Also no amine blush, perfect
Hi Scott, It is not recommended to use Chopped Strand Mat (CSM) with epoxy. Woven glass cloth and multiaxial fabrics offer a far more effective combination. Here is a link to an article that offers a thorough explanation: www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/chopped-strand-mat-and-epoxy/?hilite=%27Chopped%27%2C%27strand%27%2C%27mat%27
![Coheed and Cambria - Searching for Tomorrow [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hDsYGLbmadg/mqdefault.jpg)
This is my favorite video on RUclips.
Simple as that...
I find the two of these guys are the perfect combination of good guys.
What a fantastic educational video on the subject
Have to say dave is one of my go to heroes 😎 always has good advice and support.
The most comprehensive YT-instructable about epoxy!
Glad I found it, thanks a lot. Top notch video and audio quality and well explained. Cheers!
A1.
The best 37 minutes ever, thank you.
So much good stuff in that, so many little tips and pit falls I can now use. Thanks.
Excellent lessons delivered from excellent teachers!
Thx!
Again gold, Tom, and thanks to David. I now understand a bit better what I could repair and what I couldn't. But I know!
This is the best video I have ever seen on fibre-glass work/materials, thank you Tom.
Fantastic video Tim and David thank you very much 👍👍👍👍
So much more pertinent information than other sources. I now realize why some of my applications have not gone as well as I expected! Thanks for the video.
A company that know their job. Thanks Tom. Brilliant advice.
Such a straightforward and comprehensive tutorial. I hope I never have to use it to repair my boat. But at least I'm in with a chance now of making a half reasonable job if the worst happens. Thanks Tom and Dave - stars both of you.
Your channel is an absolute treasure trove and I can't think of a better teacher than you! Best regards from Sweden.
And of course a fantastic demonstration from Dave!
I simply wouldn't be able to do the work on my boat that I do without this stuff. Once you tackle the first few jobs and get used to how it works, it gets easier and easier. And peeling off peel ply is more satisfying than popping bubble wrap.
And, yes, big patch on first. I've had so many debates on this subject - good to hear it straight from the manufacturer.
fantastic distillation of the Gougeon brothers book with practical explanation of the “Why”
Good show, very informative, thanks Tom; that bonded some good info in my brain, and now my bad epoxy practices have been cured!
Next spring I have several blisters to repair and this video was an excellent reminder of how I should proceed. Thank you.
Thanks for your video , knowledge is king and very helpful .
Currently 345 to 2 which shows you how awesome Tom puts together these videos with his team and what a brilliant choice it was to team up with the UK West System folks. Occasionally I buy a different product for certain applications but far and away I use more West System than any other. Bob's Your Uncle.
Loved this; have used epoxy but not really with much confidence, now I know process clearer / how - inner geek satisfied - brilliant video, and the mention of beer 😁 Thanks!
Bravo Tom!
Best ever masterclass on using West System, thank you gents. I have a few small spots on my boat needing attention and this video, could not have been better timed, thank you Tom, thank you David.
Well done Wessex and Tom, never too old to learn something new, absolutely brilliant video 👍👍👍
Absolutely enlightening,brilliant
Excellent explanation of Epoxy. Thanks to all concerned.
He did a great job of covering the fundamentals in a short amount of time. He mentioned how fine some of the filler is. It'd be a good idea to wear a dust mask any time the filler container is open.
Amazing technique, top drawer action. Well in the top five of workable expoy, a cracking product.
Thanks for sharing Tom ,, again a good inspirational lesson.
Thanks Dave
Great stuff Tom! I have just put transom,stringers and floor (deck) into old free fiberglass boat using West Systems Epoxy! I am a retired baker not experienced with fiberglass but lots of good info on RUclips such as this video.Epoxy is not cheap but I think it does the best job.Viewer in Western Canada! CHEERS
David was a fantastic co-host for this episode! Great stuff, Tom! Very informative and enjoyable, as always!
Thanks a lot for such an informative video! Greetings from Russia.
Even though we're buying a steel narrowboat next month we found this fascinating. We don't have the courage to go on a sailing boat but we love watching your vlogs
Excellent….I learned by trial and (a bunch of) errors! The ratio question was perfect. Thanks Mr Tom! Andrew
Many thanks Tom, very informative video.
A true master class. Thank you Tom and Dave!
I have been using West System since the mid '90s, sand took two coutrses in Polymers while studying to be a Technology Education Teacher, and I learned a bunch. Thank you, and well done.
Absolutely brilliant information.
Thanks Tom 👍🏻
An excellent instruction set for a complex issue, thanks Tom for making and posting this.
Very good video with lots of interesting information..One thing he didn't cover was how to clean the pumps if you have only used them for one or two pumps .
I love how someone with an english accent can say something quite ordinary, but to an American it sounds so profound. Still a very informative video.
What a great instructional video. I've watched a demonstration of this some time ago but forgotten more than I'd learnt. This is a great reference video and I also know where to go for the kit! Well done Tom.
One of the best videos I have seen covering the many different aspects of the proper use of epoxy and fillers. Great Job!
it s great to have an expert going thru the steps, very well explained, do more videos working on boat, respect to Tom a legend
My wooden clinker dinghy is entirely held together with this stuff. Seems good to me, but it's my first boat. It seems as strong or stronger than the wood itself. I've put quite a few scarf joints in it.
Superb stuff. I can fix my boat now 😎
This is great!... I always look forward to your videos knowing that I will be a little (or a lot!) better informed afterwards.
Tom, an absolutely fantastic video - thank you very much. The fog has now cleared!!
Thanks Tom and David, lots of great advice and tips picked up there and a great reference point for any future jobs.
Very informational video! I'm working on our sailboat doing a bit of repair and recreating some pieces that are no longer serviceable. So many great tips I'm going to need to watch it again just to absorb all of the info. Thanks so much!
BRILLIANT!!!! What a great explanation of a subject I have struggled to understand. So much detail, thank you.
Well that was really useful I have to say. Many thanks
Great video , as usual ,,, well done Sir.
Thank you Dave and Tom! I've been using West System on my 35 foot center cockpit cutter for 30 years ! It's truly remarkable how many various applications WS can be used! ⛵🇺🇸
perfect timing tom, i start my first epoxy fibreglass job tomorow, making up a nav pod.
What a great review. Clear and concise. TKU Tom.
I must write to Sailing Uma and Sail Life and tell’em they are putting their patches on upside down.
But again, you remind me of my own ancient history. In 1978 I graduated with my Chemistry degree and knocked on the door of international paints in Newcastle. No comment on my degree but they thought I’d do better in the sales team based near Wessex in Romney. So I went down there for an interview. Coincidence or what? But dad convinced me that there was no money in sailing and so I took the BlueStar ship management job and sailed the world. Navigating and learning.
It could have been great!
Nah smallest first for me
Thanks for watching the video and for your response Nigel.
It was a great team effort working with Tom and also Steve who filmed and edited.
It is a point of huge and fascinating discussion ( Q. GRP repairs large/small patch first ) and answered by lab testing and pure logic. Firstly conducting a repair to an appropriately prepared polyester GRP boat with epoxy yields maximum adhesion compared with the use of the (polyester) resin it might have been originally built with, that’s where our lab testing is useful. Polyester resin has good, but not astounding secondary bonding characteristics yet yields excellent results when used in a reactive bond such as the lamination of a boat hull. Chopped Strand Mat doesn’t function too well with epoxy as it is unable to break the emulsion binder of readily available CSM ( it does work marginally better with powder bound CSM ). If a GRP repair was conducted with polyester and CSM then the random nature and the short 50mm length fibres of the CSM would make little difference as to the order of the patches. With structurally stronger and higher adhesion epoxy we tend to advise the use of superior strength Bi Axial fabrics ( +/- 45° stitched glass ). So applying the largest patch first yields the maximum continuous contact surface and uninterrupted fibre length when applied to the repair bevel ( we suggest 12:1 minimum ). It is also wise to measure the thickness of the hull and create a cutting pattern for the patches. Each 100g of fibre weight equating to app .1mm ( or 1/10th of a mm ) of finished thickness. Undoubtedly there will be some overfill of the repair that will require machining, With the largest patch applied first each patch will only have end fibres protruding around the perimeter of the repair. Consequently, the act of machining/grinding will maintain far more straight and continuous bi axial fibres throughout the epoxy/glass repair. It is quite feasible to effect a repair with the taper both inside and outside if the laminate is substantial. A long answer to a relatively short question I know, but hope you understand the logical and scientific explanation. Thanks again. Best regards. David.
really well explained, the best tuition ive seen.
I must admit I would have put the large patch on last. So glad I saw this and my logic is now corrected/modified.
Excellent coverage of a diy repair topic, though I was hoping for a minute or two in The Three Tons.
You can also use WS for tricky/tight repairs using a variety of “dowels”-wood or metal-of myriad sizes. They’re excellent for establishing correct alignment of two pieces/surfaces. 👍
Very informative. No mention of the chemical fumes. How harmful are the newer resin and hardener fumes. My experience from painting is the hardener is the most toxic. What about these products?
Quick tip! West Systems offer a free DVD and extensive repair manual, all for free if I remember. My manual is as well-thumbed as Calder's books.
I will have to give the plastic stir sticks a try.
Great episode. Thanks.
I was tentative using West Systems at first, having watched people on YT being nervous using it. But I found it nice and reasonably easy to use. The ambient temp is quite critical and can make a big difference, but on the whole it is rather like using hide glues in a lot of ways. I'm a big fan. Great vid Tom.
Super useful piece. Thank you!
Such an informative video. Thanks Tom.
Fascinating, thank you Tom
Good Thursday afternoon to you sir from Wellington Somerset
Very good Tom.
Exellent turned my XOD boat 1936 in to a rocketship!
I'm currently basically bathing in west system epoxy since I'm refitting a lovely little (29') gaff cutter which hopefully I'll be able to launch and enjoy before the summer is over ... so this video is quite timely! :)
bathing in it is a real bad idea, as your body builds up toxicity to it. I have old friends that cannot go near the stuff now as they get bad rashes & get sick if they do. (I was a polyester resin boat builder & did not have the same issues).
@@calthorp Haha .. I hear you. Of course I was being a bit facetious. I certainly try *not* to bathe in it and be as careful as possible, always wear protective gloves and clothing etc. But it seems that no matter how careful you try to handle the stuff, sometimes a mess or two can happen when you're using it frequently. Thanks for the reminder though. :)
@@sauter1 Yes nasty stuff for your body to absorb. I only use Epoxy when I have to, As most things can be done with polyester, its cheaper & far easy to use.
I would suggest using the black heavy-duty neoprene version of those gloves...they're maybe 30-50% more, but are way more durable...never needed to double up and never had them rip. If you want to make it easier to put gloves on, especially if your hands a sweaty, dry as much sweat with a paper towel, then dab a bit of baby powder on your hands.
Fantastic information from the God of Glue!
Thanks gentlemen. Great info
Great video, thanks! What is going on at 31:34? Smoke, vapor?!
Excellent video. what solvent was used to remove the amine blush?
Glad you enjoyed the video. Good question! It was West System 855 Cleaning Solution. More about it here: wessexresins.co.uk/west-system/cleaning-products/855-cleaning-solution/
Really helpful, learned a lot.
Very useful skills very well explained, thanks to you both, great stuff indeed. I never realized that the size of the mixing container affected the curing time. All that knowledge will be put to good use 💥👍🏻⛵️
Any chance of a Part Two, covering correct application of fairly large pieces of glass mat, chopstrand, and related cloths along with ‘how to’ suggestions for larger repairs on wood and fiberglass boats? This was mentioned here but only very briefly, I’m sure you could easily fill an entire episode with this info., there are so many typical repair situations that could be covered. Also - do they offer a product that cures underwater, as some other suppliers do? That’s another skill well worth learning about. Just ideas, thanks Tom ☺️
Great info. I use west alot great product.
Perhaps I missed something, but understood that one can't put epoxy onto sodden wet wood as it will drive the water about and not adhere well - but what about slight dampness - say on a piece of new ply which got damp and one is building a corner from it (90 degree bond) - and there is, say, rain humidity in the air in a garage - does the presence of water adversely effect the use of the epoxy - does the wood have to be reasonably dry or bone dry? Thanks for the video.
Great production, I have been using WS for ever, since it came out. My next project is revamping a Teak deck on a Oyster 435. Trying to make up my mind to use WS205 or WS655 any ideas.
Very informative! I wonder how many people have been doing 5 pumps of resin to 1 pump of hardener.
The ones that Sank their Boat🤔
Thank you
Execellent!
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks..great video.
I have an sailboat I would like to know what the marine resin fo hull and the outboard engine reinforced area
Very comprehensive.
Already feeling itchy!!!!
educational. nice thank you.
Very Good...Best...SV Aquila
Can you put polyester gel coat over epoxy patch really? I have done hundreds of these epoxy patches for osmosis repair and always was taught to paint them. For osmosis repair using polyester was taught to grind from both sides of the glass making a sort of rivet shaped fill which could be gelcoated. Love to know your opinion on polyester gelcoat attaching to epoxy, I thought it wouldn't attach, and if it can, well what a fantastic time saver. As a boat labourer I have spent hundreds of hours grafting with angle grinders and would really like to know !
Thanks for watching the video and for your response Mike.
It was a great team effort working with Tom and also Steve who filmed and edited.
It is perfectly feasible to conduct an Epoxy laminate repair and then follow up with colour-matched polyester gelcoat; there are a number of factors that affect a successful job however. It’s essential that this is conducted only above the waterline. It’s essential that the epoxy is well cured for a period of 5-7 days ( much less with professional heat lamps ). It is essential that the surface of the epoxy repair is, clean, dry, free from any surface contamination and scrupulously abraded with 80 grit minimum aluminium oxide paper. In summary (for GRP repairs) it’s essential that the polyester gel coat bonds to an unreactive, fully cured and well prepared surface…….after all gelcoat will cure if you spill any and will bond tenaciously to the floor or your shoes! We have conducted a wealth of adhesion testing to qualify this process.
GBI in the US have their own occasional publication www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/applying-polyester-gelcoat-over-epoxy/
Very pleased to hear that you are using the correct materials and methods for a hull that may have been damaged due to osmotic blistering or delamination. For underwater repairs we always suggest an epoxy repair be finished with at least 4 coats of epoxy. There may be instances where the thickness of the hull or location of a repair requires grinding from both sides, again a perfectly feasible solution. There are numerous manuals that are very explanatory on our website.
Thanks again Mike. Best regards David.
Thus was extremely informative, than you guys
I made the mistake of 5 pumps on one and 1 on the other. I was lucky that nothing hardened and I could rip all of the glass off and just start again. I won't make that mistake again...
if you have problems with reactions to epoxy use what I do, Bote Cote epoxy. Water based and perfect on every level. It's an Australian made epoxy and it's cheaper than West System and no nasty reactions, smell and cleaning up is with water. Also no amine blush, perfect
Can fiberglass mat be used with epoxy?..if not what do I use for a substitute?
Hi Scott, It is not recommended to use Chopped Strand Mat (CSM) with epoxy. Woven glass cloth and multiaxial fabrics offer a far more effective combination.
Here is a link to an article that offers a thorough explanation: www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/chopped-strand-mat-and-epoxy/?hilite=%27Chopped%27%2C%27strand%27%2C%27mat%27
Having had a fair few sticky moments, I found that very interesting
Excellent advise. Now just make it affordable!
It's like watching Bilbo and Gandalf on the fundamentals of Methril.
Mithril
@@fernandofert9960 Fart
@@Barbreck1On your mouth.