Black and white reversal was quite widely used for home movies in the past. Most black and white negative films can be reversed, but some work better than others. Generally, slow films work better than fast ones. A small amount of Sodium Thiosulphate has to be added to the developer, the amount varies from one film type to another, and films which use a small amount tend to work better than ones which need a larger amount. Ilford publish details for a reversal process on their website. I used to process Agfa Scala in a slightly modified version of this years ago. Roma also sell a reversal film, but I’ve never tried it.
If you get some Ilford Ortho 80 film in sheet form (either 4x5 or 8x10), you can enlarge those 35mm frames onto the Ortho 80, then contact print the ortho 80 onto normal darkroom paper. The Ortho 80 essentially would be treated like a fixed grade paper, which gives you a large negative image that you can then print. You can also get Ortho 80 in 35mm size, if you wanted to, you could just contact print the 35mm slide onto the 35mm ortho, then you could print that. That's typically what I do when making negatives from digital files that I want to print onto silver gelatin paper. I make a high resolution positive inject print onto clear transparency medium, then contact print that onto Ortho sheet film, develop it, which gives me a nice physical silver gelatin negative. I can then just print it onto paper like normal, though I usually make the negative as large as I can get it, and prefer to make 8x10 size to just contact print it onto paper. In your case, you have a physical positive already, so you can either enlarge it onto ortho or contact print it onto ortho, then enlarge it onto paper.
I convinced that I am going to try this film 😆 Regarding your scans, are you still doing the DSLR scan? Try setting the DSLR to a mono profile Also try adjusting the saturation to zero in Lightroom.
Nice video! I love b&w slides. You can print it in the darkroom by doing a reversal process on the photo paper but these slides are best projected. Fixing it for a few minutes will remove most of the tint and then just scan and converted to B&W mode. I also made a few videos on DIY reversal on film, paper and RA4 and these are great fun.
Nice! The E4 colour slide development method required to open the tank and expose the film to light like the ADOX kit, the current E6 slide development method got rid of that part! If I read the manual correct you get 8 developed rolls on the ADOX kit and I find that a bit too limited for the price that the kit costs. Keep up the good work!
dr5 film can make black and white slides out of most b/w film stocks and develop the slides in sepia. The sepia may be something you might want to try out!
awesome video. i remember doing this in college using d76, but i dont remember doing a bleach step ... but that was 45 years ago 😂 loved the one shot of the underground sign ... something like that one frame, mounted and in like a trading card holder, i would buy a product like that ... well just a thought. thanks for sharing. the Rabbit. =:3
I have a crazy friend who has come up with his own wacky B&W reversal process. He pushes 400 ISO B&W films to insane ISOs like 12.800, even more. With not much grain and very good quality.
Did you know you don’t need a special developer for bw reversal? You can develop the film hot (100f) for about 12 mins, bleach with a mix of hydrogen peroxide to about 10-15 ml of distilled cooking vinegar( not cleaning vinegar i learned the hard way) and then expose to light and develop again for recommended time for film.
It reminds me of when I used to shoot with Polarpan from Polaroid, I loved it, but very fragile and easily scratched, but this looks far more robust as an end product, with its own look . Great introduction, thanks !!
all of relations you could imagine ) it is the Agfa Scala. made by ADOX (which was a part of Agfa since 1999 till 2003 and made many of Agfa products).
No relation to Agfa Scala directly. This However the base emulsion is actually manufactured by Agfa-Gevaert in Belgium before being speed boosted and then packaged by ADOX. It originates as an aerial film (Aviphot 80) but the work ADOX does on it substantially changes the response curve vs the Agfa emulsion.
I really feel you with this one. I love the idea of these reversal B&W rolls, and I've been dying to try it. Problem is like you I just am not the right person for the developing process. It's a one day project for me that I'm hoping to get around to at some point this summer. As far as the scans go, I kind of like that tint to the scans. I personally scan a lot of my B&W that way just because I feel like there are a lot of cases where the picture takes on a new character and makes it stand out.
Very interesting video. I've always wanted to print photos in the darkroom as negative images. I feel this would be awesome for architectural and nature photos. Might have to give this a try in the near future. Thanks for a very informative video.
Interesting watch. The damage on the negs adds to their charm. Where you say the scans have a tint to them, have you a dedicated b&w option on the scanner or alternatively, considered converting the files to black and white in your photo editing software? Could you film to film duplicate and create a negative from the positive for printing? That or get some positive paper. ;)
I haven't tried the Scala process yet, but I have used HR50 (Scala 50) and it's super fine grain as a negative too. In doing some film tests, I seemed to get a pretty huge speed loss in Xtol and I haven't figured out why. That was the with the likely questionable Xtol (as part of the recall) so that may have played a roll (hah, get it? Because roll of fil...yeah sorry). I didn't get speed loss with other films though. I plan on testing HR50 with Adox's Xtol-like solution (XT-3) as well as the HR developer specifically once they arrive. I've gotten some amazing results from it though - and, though I haven't tried it, it's a near-IR film like Rollei IR which could be a lot of fun to use with an IR filter as well.
Really nice! I think it would be cool to get in the darkroom and print some, I am curious on how a negative print would look. Or you could try print polarizing to come full circle
I usually shoot Scala 160 but both share the warm tint after development. I usually correct this after scanning in C1 by "enabling black and white." It adds a bit of magenta to counteract the yellow green tint and cools off the image for web publishing. Have not figured out how to get that look straight out the developer. Though I have to say there are times when I think the tinted version is the best one. I've never used an enlarger and didn't realize this can't be printed normally in the darkroom, if you figure out how to do that I'd be more than game to see it! Keep doing your thing fam, love the channel. Peace!
Do you use a clearing bath after the bleach? Try 1-2 mins in 20g/L sodium sulfite bath with agitation before the second developer. That should clear the tint.
@@karlmatthias2698 Yeah I do use the clearing bath but maybe my agitation is too gentle. Will pay attention to it next time I develop. Just bought some more film and developer so maybe in a few weeks. Regardless of the difficulties it's still my favorite B&W film. I'm most a positive film shooter and really like to see what's on the film right out of the developer.
A lovely film, I’ve been using it since it was still from and badged by Agfa and needed sending to Germany for processing! Not something I think I would dare do myself even if I had a darkroom. And a clue!
this film is a tough one. it has EV range equal to that of a color slide film and can be used only for low contrast scenes. and even being exposed properly it is a nightmare to print. too much of a contrast. this film is not "sharp" either. it has exceptional resolution and virtually no grain so it records an image exactly how it is. and if your lens is not great you will get somewhat "soapy" negatives. (and it shows all the camera shake even on a tripod. i mean that micro-shake which usually hidden behind grain size of a regular film)
You are correct, you will be limiting your dynamic range a lot when shooting slides regardless of bw or color. I can’t say for sure how much more or less bw has than color but it’s for sure less than negatives.
The only thing you did wrong with the scans is that you didn’t set the white point correctly, i think adox also desaturates their scans so it’s doesn’t have that tone. Also you can do the chemical process with any black and white film and paper (so you can print them in the darkroom with regular paper), the only problem with using film that isn’t designed for the process is that it has to have a transparent base instead of the usual pinkish tone (a couple of rollei films do have that transparent base)
I forget the name - but there’s a lab in the US that can reverse process normal black and white film. I haven’t tried them but their results look pretty awesome.
@@ribsy yep! That’s them! I’ve been keen to try them but I’ve been traveling in Colombia and I’m less keen on shipping my film from here. But it’s on my to do list...
i just want / need a dark room to print hundreds or thousand of my negs. many prints lost as suitcase got wet. i did photo for AV dept at college, copied slides, i think have a roll of bw neg fim, was used in projectors. often a special machine, not carasale/
Black and white reversal was quite widely used for home movies in the past.
Most black and white negative films can be reversed, but some work better than others. Generally, slow films work better than fast ones. A small amount of Sodium Thiosulphate has to be added to the developer, the amount varies from one film type to another, and films which use a small amount tend to work better than ones which need a larger amount. Ilford publish details for a reversal process on their website. I used to process Agfa Scala in a slightly modified version of this years ago.
Roma also sell a reversal film, but I’ve never tried it.
very cool! thanks for the background - i had no idea 😊
If you get some Ilford Ortho 80 film in sheet form (either 4x5 or 8x10), you can enlarge those 35mm frames onto the Ortho 80, then contact print the ortho 80 onto normal darkroom paper. The Ortho 80 essentially would be treated like a fixed grade paper, which gives you a large negative image that you can then print. You can also get Ortho 80 in 35mm size, if you wanted to, you could just contact print the 35mm slide onto the 35mm ortho, then you could print that. That's typically what I do when making negatives from digital files that I want to print onto silver gelatin paper. I make a high resolution positive inject print onto clear transparency medium, then contact print that onto Ortho sheet film, develop it, which gives me a nice physical silver gelatin negative. I can then just print it onto paper like normal, though I usually make the negative as large as I can get it, and prefer to make 8x10 size to just contact print it onto paper. In your case, you have a physical positive already, so you can either enlarge it onto ortho or contact print it onto ortho, then enlarge it onto paper.
Ahh good point. A bit of a work around but could be fun
What happened to the image near the edges and on the sprockets it looks almost as off the image has broken off
Yea I damaged the emulsion - didn’t follow the instructions too well
very interesting video @ribsy i would love to see this compared to a standard black and white reversal film like FOMAPAN R 100
Yea never tried that film!
I convinced that I am going to try this film 😆
Regarding your scans, are you still doing the DSLR scan? Try setting the DSLR to a mono profile
Also try adjusting the saturation to zero in Lightroom.
Exactly my thoughts too
yea thats it! just need to use BW mode on camera or lightroom
yup makes sense!
@@ribsy I think my Epson V850 would like this film
Nice video! I love b&w slides. You can print it in the darkroom by doing a reversal process on the photo paper but these slides are best projected. Fixing it for a few minutes will remove most of the tint and then just scan and converted to B&W mode. I also made a few videos on DIY reversal on film, paper and RA4 and these are great fun.
yea makes sense! i will have to convert to BW next time
Nice!
The E4 colour slide development method required to open the tank and expose the film to light like the ADOX kit, the current E6 slide development method got rid of that part!
If I read the manual correct you get 8 developed rolls on the ADOX kit and I find that a bit too limited for the price that the kit costs.
Keep up the good work!
Yea I’ve never done that with e6. But I have done it with the direct positive on paper
dr5 film can make black and white slides out of most b/w film stocks and develop the slides in sepia. The sepia may be something you might want to try out!
yea that sounds interesting!
@@ribsy They are giving up this process during August 2022
awesome video. i remember doing this in college using d76, but i dont remember doing a bleach step ... but that was 45 years ago 😂 loved the one shot of the underground sign ... something like that one frame, mounted and in like a trading card holder, i would buy a product like that ... well just a thought. thanks for sharing. the Rabbit. =:3
I have a crazy friend who has come up with his own wacky B&W reversal process.
He pushes 400 ISO B&W films to insane ISOs like 12.800, even more.
With not much grain and very good quality.
tell me more!
Did you know you don’t need a special developer for bw reversal? You can develop the film hot (100f) for about 12 mins, bleach with a mix of hydrogen peroxide to about 10-15 ml of distilled cooking vinegar( not cleaning vinegar i learned the hard way) and then expose to light and develop again for recommended time for film.
Yea! I’ve seen a few DIY processes - I referenced one in this video
Good video. I like the look of the film. Enjoyed the photos also. Keep it up. Be easy.
Yea I like the look as well!
"that building" = St. Paul's Cathedral
haha thanks 😊
It reminds me of when I used to shoot with Polarpan from Polaroid, I loved it, but very fragile and easily scratched, but this looks far more robust as an end product, with its own look .
Great introduction, thanks !!
yea makes sense! thanks
Love the content mate
Thanks for watching
Any relation to the old Agfa Scala? I never shot a roll of 200 iso scala from agfa. Id be curious to see if the process would work on it as well?
all of relations you could imagine ) it is the Agfa Scala. made by ADOX (which was a part of Agfa since 1999 till 2003 and made many of Agfa products).
No relation to Agfa Scala directly. This However the base emulsion is actually manufactured by Agfa-Gevaert in Belgium before being speed boosted and then packaged by ADOX. It originates as an aerial film (Aviphot 80) but the work ADOX does on it substantially changes the response curve vs the Agfa emulsion.
No clue! I don’t know much about it
Thanks for the info!
Ahh interesting
I really feel you with this one. I love the idea of these reversal B&W rolls, and I've been dying to try it. Problem is like you I just am not the right person for the developing process. It's a one day project for me that I'm hoping to get around to at some point this summer. As far as the scans go, I kind of like that tint to the scans. I personally scan a lot of my B&W that way just because I feel like there are a lot of cases where the picture takes on a new character and makes it stand out.
Yea it’s a great offer
I think one of the big uses for this could be B&W slide projection. Will look awesome.
Yea for sure!
Very interesting video. I've always wanted to print photos in the darkroom as negative images. I feel this would be awesome for architectural and nature photos. Might have to give this a try in the near future. Thanks for a very informative video.
Yea that’s a good call. Could work
Interesting watch. The damage on the negs adds to their charm. Where you say the scans have a tint to them, have you a dedicated b&w option on the scanner or alternatively, considered converting the files to black and white in your photo editing software? Could you film to film duplicate and create a negative from the positive for printing? That or get some positive paper. ;)
Yea def! Will do that next time
It has a reason why transparent spirals are used in the second exposure process.
yea to expose the undeveloped silver
@@ribsy Yes. And still you dont use such spirals.
I haven't tried the Scala process yet, but I have used HR50 (Scala 50) and it's super fine grain as a negative too. In doing some film tests, I seemed to get a pretty huge speed loss in Xtol and I haven't figured out why. That was the with the likely questionable Xtol (as part of the recall) so that may have played a roll (hah, get it? Because roll of fil...yeah sorry). I didn't get speed loss with other films though. I plan on testing HR50 with Adox's Xtol-like solution (XT-3) as well as the HR developer specifically once they arrive. I've gotten some amazing results from it though - and, though I haven't tried it, it's a near-IR film like Rollei IR which could be a lot of fun to use with an IR filter as well.
Yea I will testing it again in normal dev
Never seen B&W slides! I’m liking it, definitely! 🙌🏾
yea they are pretty cool!
damn. It has such an interesting look. Almost looks like stone or something.
interesting way to describe it!
Question, why does it look that chewed up near the sprocket holes?
I ruined it
@@ribsy ahh ok, I thought it might have been something to do with the development process
the images look amazing! i wonder if you could project it like colour slides, cause using that sharpness might be pretty sick
Yea i think you could!
Any idea where it can be developed commercially?
Nope!
Really nice! I think it would be cool to get in the darkroom and print some, I am curious on how a negative print would look. Or you could try print polarizing to come full circle
Yea I’m very curious too haha
I usually shoot Scala 160 but both share the warm tint after development. I usually correct this after scanning in C1 by "enabling black and white." It adds a bit of magenta to counteract the yellow green tint and cools off the image for web publishing. Have not figured out how to get that look straight out the developer. Though I have to say there are times when I think the tinted version is the best one. I've never used an enlarger and didn't realize this can't be printed normally in the darkroom, if you figure out how to do that I'd be more than game to see it! Keep doing your thing fam, love the channel. Peace!
Do you use a clearing bath after the bleach? Try 1-2 mins in 20g/L sodium sulfite bath with agitation before the second developer. That should clear the tint.
thanks for watching! yea i kind of like the tint too 😊
correct - clearing bath is after bleach + wash
@@karlmatthias2698 Yeah I do use the clearing bath but maybe my agitation is too gentle. Will pay attention to it next time I develop. Just bought some more film and developer so maybe in a few weeks. Regardless of the difficulties it's still my favorite B&W film. I'm most a positive film shooter and really like to see what's on the film right out of the developer.
A lovely film, I’ve been using it since it was still from and badged by Agfa and needed sending to Germany for processing! Not something I think I would dare do myself even if I had a darkroom. And a clue!
Haha very cool
Such a cool film!! Great video
Yea it’s cool! Def try it out
That's a cool film.
Yea it is!
maybe the color temp of the light you expose it to when developing changes how the film turns out?
No clue! Seems to work with any light but daylight
Looks great! I'm trying this for sure :)
thanks!
I think you need a transparent reel just like the jobo ones, that will enable the light to reach both the borders and the film that is inside.
I think this was ok. The error was the water temp / keeping the PH balance
@@ribsy could be, because the emulsion seems stripped in some pictures, maybe it was damaged by that
Great video, I don't know if I'll try this one. But am looking to get some adox 20 cms II, and try to print that maximum sharpness 🤔🤔🤔🤫
this film is a tough one. it has EV range equal to that of a color slide film and can be used only for low contrast scenes.
and even being exposed properly it is a nightmare to print. too much of a contrast.
this film is not "sharp" either. it has exceptional resolution and virtually no grain so it records an image exactly how it is. and if your lens is not great you will get somewhat "soapy" negatives. (and it shows all the camera shake even on a tripod. i mean that micro-shake which usually hidden behind grain size of a regular film)
yea that film is sharp!
interesting. i felt it was sharp
These are so damn cool looking, and the processing was totally just a happy little accident!
haha well it was intentional but luckily i didn't ruin it entirely
I accidentally bought the Adox Scala 50 film uuugghhrr!! 😂
I meant to buy the Adox Mission 200 color film, there’s none here in the States.
Ahh shit 😅
Is this like colour slide film and has only a few stops of latitude or is it more forgiving B&W with stops for days?
You are correct, you will be limiting your dynamic range a lot when shooting slides regardless of bw or color. I can’t say for sure how much more or less bw has than color but it’s for sure less than negatives.
yup!
thanks for confirming!
Thinking of starting film photography what’s the best camera to buy under around €80
id say get a cheap canon slr - can't go wrong 😊
Darkroom print to Ilford/ Harmon direct positive paper? Hmmm?
Ahh that has potential
The only thing you did wrong with the scans is that you didn’t set the white point correctly, i think adox also desaturates their scans so it’s doesn’t have that tone. Also you can do the chemical process with any black and white film and paper (so you can print them in the darkroom with regular paper), the only problem with using film that isn’t designed for the process is that it has to have a transparent base instead of the usual pinkish tone (a couple of rollei films do have that transparent base)
good call! thats what i needed to do
I forget the name - but there’s a lab in the US that can reverse process normal black and white film. I haven’t tried them but their results look pretty awesome.
DR5
very cool!
is that the name of the lab?
@@ribsy yep! That’s them! I’ve been keen to try them but I’ve been traveling in Colombia and I’m less keen on shipping my film from here. But it’s on my to do list...
i just want / need a dark room to print hundreds or thousand of my negs. many prints lost as suitcase got wet. i did photo for AV dept at college, copied slides, i think have a roll of bw neg fim, was used in projectors. often a special machine, not carasale/
Very cool. Nice stories 😃
So is there going to be a colab video with @linabessanova ?
Maybe soon - stay tuned 😄
I actually love all the destruction around the edges. Plenty character.
PS: I have an idea for a video. I'll hit you up on IG
Yea i think they look cool too!
i thot did a roll or few in college course or as simi pro photographer in youth, 70's.
Sweet 😄
Some kind of cathedral 😢😢😢
😎😎😎😎
😊
I have 1 roll to test, good your result
Def test it out!
lol a Yank in the Good 'ole UK 'What's that, some kinda church thing'...
Tryna take over, youtube is just a front - can’t tell you more tho