You need to unlock the receiver and reprogram it so it isn't locked to 100% rates. If you don't do this it can only travel to 100% because that's where Horizon locks BnF travel points.
Thank you for this video and the comments. I just got my night timber x after flying the the timber x 3d in real flight evo. I moved my lights to the bind port, split the flaps to ch 5 and 6 as suggested. But instead of building a new profile, i used the spektrum dx preset profile for the timber x full span aileron. Only had to move things to my preferred switches and build the harrier mix. 2:04
@@johnd9357 he explains in the video, but you mix elevator to r flap, then for rates use 100 and -100. The flap should nove the same direction as the elevator, if it moves opposite, swap the 2 rates. And assign it to a switch.
Using some of fhe settings seen here for setting up the timber x wing i just put on my TTE and the 8ch rx. Between the discord, YT and forums ive received so much info and ive loved every minute of modding/customizing these timbers. Youre clearly doing the Lords work Jon 😅
@@TwoBrosRC I could not quite catch the replacement servos you used. Links on such things can be exceedingly helpful. Do you get a commission from HH? Perhaps you should ask for that. I would buy a plane you reviewed and instructed on how to set up through such a linkage. Have you flown any of the Addictions? I have the smallest one and have 3 fabulous flights on it so far. A bit pricey and not as robust as a foamy but boy does it perform and I can’t really do squat yet.
No commissions here from any RC company. I do get a small kickback if you buy from my Amazon links though. tinyurl.com/B11DLS is the servo I'm using here. Haven't flown any PA models yet.
Good video. I’ve had a couple of Timber X’s and never could get more than 100% servo movement. I thought it was a limit set in the receiver. How do you get that much more throw? Thanks! Edit: And I just read another post where you explained…which is what I thought I would have to do…Thanks again!
Nice video. Got a kick out of your "older" airframes. My oldest is a TopFlight Contender balsa kit that was my "warbird trainer" with an OS -70II four-stroke (third glow engine) that I have been flying since 1989. ;-)
I doubt your 1989 model was made with EPO foam though. ;) This Timber X is basically ancient considering it's close to two years old and has flown over 800 times.
Hi Jon, I recently picked up the Night Timber X. I bought the AGFRC 9g servos you're running. My question is, what servo horns are you using? The ones that come with the plane don't fit the spline on the AGF servos, and the ones that come with the servos seem way too small. Please help, Thank you!
I'm using the stock horns - the ones that came with the Timber X. They take a bit of work to fit into the AGF servos but will fit in if you force them to. Mine have been on there for 1.6 years now.
@@TwoBrosRC Thanks again for the help Jon! I see what you mean, they are stubborn to get started, but once you get them to stay, you can use the screw to get them down. I appreciate your help!
Can you please do a detailed radio setup video for this? I know you sort of go over it but I’d love to know all the switch setups and how you activate them and everything. I’m trying to follow in this video but it’s a lot and I’m on the nx8, not the ix20. Would be much appreciated.
Great video. I echo your statement on the durability of this plane. I have stalled mine to the ground herd 4 times. Once so hard I shattered the carbon rods in the nose. I replaced them, glued the nose and the landing gear back on and she flies great. What is the spectrum mixing bug you mentioned in the video?
The mixing bug is where the transmitter expects channels to be in a specific order but you've reordered the channels manually, causing it to bug out. You can see it on display in certain models like my Turbo Timber where I need to mix ELE to LAL to mix flaps, and mix ELE to FLP to mix ailerons for crow.
I wish HH would start to use T screw heads for the screws when building these. Esp the smaller version models. I hate that they generally use very soft metal Phillips style heads. Esp for the landing gear. Those screws are easily the most often removed if you use floats or skis like I do. Those screws are very soft metal.
Hi Jon, great video. Can you possibly explain further to what improvements you did on the landing gear? Had a small crash but the retainers of the springs broke off! Had you a similar problem and how did you fix? Thanks
I didn't really do anything else to it aside from reinforce them with Gorilla Glue eight months ago. That was only because the gear mount in the fuselage suffered some damage and I had to re-seat it properly.
hmm, instead of zip ties, I've just been marking the left wires with sharpie on both sides of the connection. Marked wires go together. Easy and even lighter.
Hey Jon. As always, I love the technical detail you provide in your videos. I experiment a lot with my Night TimberX. Its an old beater for me, hence I don't hesitate to experiment. Would you have a moment to answer a mixing question for me. My setup: Night TimberX upgraded with an 8360T Receiver. Every servo is plugged into its own port on the receiver. All works very well. I'm now trying to set up full span ailerons (flaperons) triggered by switch E on my iX12. P-Mix 1: AIL>RFL: Switch E. P-Mix2: AX1>LFL. My left flap will not move in sync with my left aileron. It moves in the opposite direction. Is this what you refer to as the Spektrum mixing bug (my software is the latest revision. It's as if I need a servo reverse function as part of mixing. I don't see that as an option. Do you know of a work around? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Try changing the channel you're controlling with aileron until it works, or reverse the flap servo if that needs changed. It's difficult to troubleshoot from text alone, but it does sound like the mix just isn't targeting the correct channel - or that the mix needs to be reversed. If you're currently using -100 and -100, try 100 and 100 instead.
How did you get your flaps not to go straight up when the switch is in a forward position. Whenever I use flaps on a 3 position switch, they go up as spoiler is when the switch goes up. How could I make the neutral point on the servo to be the forward point on my transmitter switch.
Could you do a detailed setup overview for this plane? You sort of gloss over your mixes but you don’t go into the mix setup or switch setup. I want to run your setup instead of the factory suggested, but I can’t figure it out on my own. Well, not with my 2 kids asking me questions every 15 seconds. I’m using an nx8 and I have the rest of it all set up, just need to know your mixes for the 1 ail 2 flap setup you run. I’d be happy to donate some operations money to the channel. I’d greatly appreciate the help.
Join us on Discord via bit.ly/TBRCDiscord and Jon will be happy to help with any specific questions you have. Be sure to post in the #tech-and-setup channel!
Are those AGF servos 180° rotation? I saw a review on Amazon that said they were only 90°. I am wanting to get a little more throw on the ailerons on my 1.5 m timber.
They move about 140 degrees with 150% rates. 180 degrees won't help you much because the ailerons on a Timber can only physically move so far before they bind.
Love this video! Wasn't sure if you covered it but did you max out the mechanical set up ie clevises and horns at max travel and then 150? Also are you able to do safe on off, reverse thrust, full span ailerons and flap mixing as well as crow with an nx8? What are your preferred switch assignments? Going to try to program mine via what I've learned in your vid!
Hey man! I did set up the linkages for maximum effect. Clevises on the outermost hole on the wing surfaces, innermost hole on the rudder and elevator horns. Outermost hole on all servo arms. You can set up everything seen in this video with an 8ch radio. With regard to switch assignments, could you be more specific?
@@TwoBrosRC Awesome to know! really love that someone out there is doing vids that show what can be done "outside the box" on these planes. in terms of switch assignments, i was curious how you set your radio up for ergonomics? like do you prefer flaps on a certain side for last minute landing throws, same with snap/elevator flaps? in case you need to adjust quickly or go back to all off. or reverse thrust being better on one side versus another? same with safe select and throttle cut and dual rates- theres so many switches sometimes it's nice to see how someone else does a set up that you can base yours off of. i also saw in another comment that you mentioned unlocking the rx for 150% - did you have a vid on this or would you do one in the future, interested to learn more! i noticed in the nx8 i can only go to 125, but really 125 seems identical to 100 when i A/B them. does that probably mean it's locked? would it be worth unlocking or just maximizing mechanical throws? i also realized i probably cannot do crow with the stock night timber x receiver because it only has 7 channels, and you'd need 8 for crow correct? really appreciate you help and your vids! def subscribed!
@@TwoBrosRCwhy outermost hole on wing surfaces? Wouldn’t going to the innermost hole give the most travel? Not sure why rudder and elevator need innermost hole for max travel yet the wing surfaces need outermost?
Revisiting this really good video and I just wanted to ask if you kept the settings from Eflite in the RX or if you cleaned it and started on a "fresh" RX?
Ive noticed ALL ur planes r really shiny. Are you using the minwax clear gloss paint? (I have, & do but so far only my extra 300 & FMS pitts are THAT shiny!) So shiny you need shades on a sunny day! 😁👍
Nah, only my Extra, 737, and Pitts are shiny. The rest are just as they come from the factory. I use Minwax polycrylic and brush it on, though I suspect I'd get better results if I learned how to spray it on correctly.
Are you using the servo arms that come with the AGF servos. They are quite a bit shorter than the stock servo arms. The stock servo arms do not fit on the AGF servos.. I haven't installed them but I suspect at 150 travel setting, I will get all the throw that is necessary even with the shorter servo arm.
Nope, I use the stock arms and made them fit by jamming them in and screwing them tight. Haven't had a single issue with the stock arms in 1.5 years of flying this model.
Awesome video Jon, thank you for sharing with the rest of us! I'm curious, why did you change the stock servos? (Because the originals stripped, they're just bad, or just your personal servo preference?) BTW, I just got my banged up Timber X setup with these mixes, and can't wait to try these out! :-) Thanks again!
Glad you enjoyed! I changed the servos because they're not precise and don't have as much torque as the AGF servos do. Precision is everything for flap compensation on the elevator - the stock servos will move to 5 or 7%, but not 6% - if that makes sense. You give the model the elevator comp required for full or takeoff flaps and it'll float upward because the servos don't actually move to the position the manual calls for. The AGF servos will, and they'll hold tight with the torque they put out.
I’m finding it impossible to get flaperons. It would be magical if you could go into more depth bc you say it’s easy but I’ve been here for the last three hours working on that alone and I CANNOT get the flaps to move independently with the corresponding Aileron. Both flaps will only move with one aileron. I’m scared to try that in flight but maybe it works idk. But it’s not what I want I know that. Please help lol
You have to put both of the flaps on separate channels and physically plug each one into the receiver without the Y-cable. The rest of the info is in the vid. If you keep running into issues, join us on Discord and one of our community members will be happy to assist: bit.ly/TBRCDiscord
Wow, its pretty amazing that you push your battery into the fuselage like that, not even close to the battery straps....center of gravity on this plane must be very forgiving
It doesn't move much further back than it would if it were in the position the straps would have been in. We don't even have the straps - they're removed. No real reason to fly with them.
At the one minute mark you are shoving it 4/5 of the way into the fuselage. I' ve tested mine with a 4 cell 2200 and can do likewise. You might be able to get one strap on the edge of it. Per the manual's center of gravity explanation, the plane still comes in tolerance levels. Perhaps you could use the metal elevator rod if you moved your battery into the hatch.... Did you disable SAFE? I would have destroyed this plane a dozen times by now without it. LOL - Thanks for being so responsive to my questions. Love your channel. This is my go to plane and you cover it better than anyone else.
@@superdow1000 Nope, haven't needed the straps in over 700 flights. It just doesn't get thrown out of the model even during crazy maneuvering. I wouldn't worry about it much. We have SAFE enabled but only use it rarely.
I own about 13 3d planes and have been flying for about 2 years now. I purchased this plane and I have about 12 flights on it. I don't want to be the guy that blames the plane. Cause it definitely can be pilot error. But I never crash any of my other planes. Every flight with this plane when I make a turn towards the end of my flight I spirals straight down to towards the ground. Is this a characteristic of this plane? Does it have a nasty stall when you turn sharp?
The answer is unfortunately "it depends" - the Timber X does stall pretty hard, but it's not unrecoverable at all due to the massive thrust to weight ratio. Try joining us on Discord and posting a video in the channel called #3d so we can look it over with you: bit.ly/TBRCDiscord
For the harrier flap mix, do you use 100%/100% mix, so a 1:1 ratio where the flaps move the same amount and rate as the elevator or do you use a certain percentage?
Rocking a nx8 and have a night timber x coming.... I eventually want to do the upgraded servos and expand throw limits but- for maiden and for learning the next few weeks what would be a good mild dual rates and expo to set each rate for (low mid highs) ---- and can I program reverse thrust the same as I did on my turbo timber evo (scrolling right to avian and setting up reverse and braking? Thanks for all you do to put out videos-
You can't program reverse that way, unfortunately. The manual goes over it - you just ensure that you've set the seventh channel to use for thrust reverse and it should be good to go. Any other channel requires using a programmer box, unless Horizon is shipping the Smart 60a ESC in this model unlocked now. I can't really give specific advice on rates - I just fly on 150% with 70% expo at all times. I don't see a point in limiting throws unless a specific maneuver can't be accomplished at 150% rates.
I'm not a novice, but not a pro. I like capable flying. Holy quapamoly, this IS a setup!! You sent me the link a while ago. I've finally busted out my Night Timber X and have looked at your settings. I have a DX8 G2, I'm unsure if this will work. How many channels does this use?? Thanks for your reply and videos. AirHammer out!!
It's been a long time since we did this setup video. The way this is done would necessitate having the flaps operate as ailerons so it wouldn't matter if it needed to be reversed or not - but chances are we would have had to reverse it with a dedicated channel regardless.
The way you phrased it made it sound like we'd moved lighting around in the aircraft. Connect the lights to the bind port. Make sure the negative (black) wire is facing down when connecting it to the receiver.
Elevator and rudder hinges were redone with nylon steel-pinned hinges roughly 1.5 years ago. We don't use the battery straps, they've been removed. The battery is simply shoved to the back of the compartment and stays there.
Hey Jon, Great video. My new never flown night timber's elevator servo seems to have died while i was setting up. It works once or twice then starts to over heat it seems and stops working completely. I am looking at the servos you have recommended and am noticing the rudder and elevator servos are glued in there with some pretty serious adhesive. Almost a white epoxy i think. how did you remove them without damaging the body?
I just pulled them out. It's a silicone caulk that holds the servos in place. It won't damage anything if you pull them out gently. You can slide a knife behind the servos to help loosen them too.
Hay jon I got the servo and setting it up, I can’t seem to get the same amount of throw on the flap as the aileron, the flaps do not moves as much even they are set at the same holes. Any ideas what I can do, I’m using a nx8
You'll need to adjust the pushrods and control holes on the flaps to make them match. It won't be 1-1, but it will be very close to it if done correctly.
@@TwoBrosRC awesome! I’m not running spektrum so I don’t have the gyro anymore, thinking new servos may help with the control… I’ve also been eyeing a flex innovations plane😅
Are the wing servo's (aileron and flap) glued in? Mine came with misaligned control horn that is not centered at neutral. Not sure how to get the control horn off with out ripping the servo out. Plus how in the heck did you get 150 percent without binding on those flaps? Mine bind at 100% when I give it full aileron the mixing increases the throw. I had to dig out foam around the clevis and it still binds up. Just not sure why it wasn't aligned before gluing in the servo's like that. Also my gear didn't fair very well in small crash where I lost all control and it just dumped into the tall grass on the first flight. I'm very experienced flying wise and was shocked to lose all control like that. It was like the system lost signal or something and just started to spiral into the dirt. I had it up and flying after getting rid of the safe functionality. I thought I was in AX3S mode when in fact it was in safe only mode. After fixing that and getting the gear back together everything flew pretty good. I now want to try and set it up like you have it with full throws and flaperons. My transmitter keep beeping at me with triple beeps early in both of my last flights and I have no idea what that means. I land and check telemetry and everything looks good. What does that triple beep every second mean? I just have an NX6 radio.
They're not. The servos are held in place with plastic harnesses that you unscrew to remove. The only servos glued in place are the elevator and rudder. I'm pretty sure I covered the rates and how the surfaces move - be sure to check over that section if you're curious. Stock servos on this model are less than ideal, hence why I linked the replacement servos that I use in the description - way more torque and way more precision. If your transmitter is beeping, it's probably because you have a Smart Battery warning going off. Check the telemetry screen and it should tell you.
@@TwoBrosRC This is great, I just took the servo out and could not get the control horn to line up 90 degree's to the servo case, so I just inserted a wood shim on one side of the servo to create the proper 90 degree alignment to the wing. Works like a champ now. The only issue I have now is that there seems to be lot of down trim in the model to make it go straight. I have the battery all the way forward and using the steel rod in the tail section. Maybe the overall flaps and ailerons need to be set higher up but something needs to be changed to level out that elevator otherwise knife edge will be screwed up.
@@TwoBrosRC Well, I'll be darn...going to the carbon rod fixed the pitching up problem. Added bonus was I ended up avoiding disaster as the plastic piece on the bottom of the rudder was barely hanging on. Had to gorilla glue it back on, but the plane flies much better now. I do have the battery pretty far back now instead of in the forward position. I'm real happy with it.
@@TwoBrosRC Hi Jon. For the night timber rudder and elevator servos that are glue in, how do you remove them, just pull, or do I need to cut them off, or apply some heat? Thanks
John I loved the video however I still can’t seem to get it to work on my IX 20 right. Any chance I could download the set up from the way you have it set up on my I X 20 How do I go about doing that? Thanks for any help.
I love your videos I just got a Night Timber x 1.2 BNF my elevator servo went bad after one flight and when I was setting up my DX8 Gen2 with hairier flaps and snap flaps when it over heated and quit. I got 6 of your servos and replaced the elevator and rudder servos but haven’t done the wing yet but I plan on it. Got everything working but only have the original RX settings so limited to 100% through. Would it be ok to try what you do for now or should I reset the Rx.
You'd be OK flying it on 100% rates but you'll want this cable to program your receiver and unlock it: bit.ly/3P4a9Kg This vid goes over the process: ruclips.net/video/F3isbv1U8eM/видео.html
@@TwoBrosRC will I get the same menus on my pc as the video shows on the ix20 transmitter. When I go to my forward programming I don’t get the settings option so I can’t backup my rx the way it is now. I want to reset it but I am afraid I will lose everything. I have the DX8gen2 transmitter. With the cable everything is done in the spektrum programmer program on the pc.
@@TwoBrosRC Wow. Didn't see that coming! Did some more "googling / YouTubing" after my initial comment here / after seeing your video and discovered others using "reverse" for taxing purposes - on land and water... so I "get it" now but yeah, I'm interested in 4D so, was surprised to see... or thought I was seeing that on this LOL. But yeah, still cool it'll stop it & almost hover - that alone would allow me to mess around with some "baby 4D" stuff. :) Definitely inserted in this plane, especially on floats! :) Thanks so much for the reply!
@@TwoBrosRC what the bind procedure on that rx? Are you turning on the tx and then the rx and it auto binds like the umx stuff does??kinda on its own?? It looked like it from the video
@@TwoBrosRC OK how about when you connect to another plane and then want to come back to the timber do you have to push any buttons, the bind button then?
Hey Jon, question for you, I have an NX8, but when I try and set the ailerons to 150% the travel stops at 100, any suggestions?
You need to unlock the receiver and reprogram it so it isn't locked to 100% rates. If you don't do this it can only travel to 100% because that's where Horizon locks BnF travel points.
Thank you for this video and the comments. I just got my night timber x after flying the the timber x 3d in real flight evo. I moved my lights to the bind port, split the flaps to ch 5 and 6 as suggested. But instead of building a new profile, i used the spektrum dx preset profile for the timber x full span aileron. Only had to move things to my preferred switches and build the harrier mix. 2:04
Can you explain how you did the harrier mix? I’m using an nx8. It would be greatly appreciated.
@@johnd9357 he explains in the video, but you mix elevator to r flap, then for rates use 100 and -100. The flap should nove the same direction as the elevator, if it moves opposite, swap the 2 rates. And assign it to a switch.
Good servos and propellers can make all the difference. Experimenting with different types and size props is worth the time and effort.
Absolutely, 100%.
Using some of fhe settings seen here for setting up the timber x wing i just put on my TTE and the 8ch rx. Between the discord, YT and forums ive received so much info and ive loved every minute of modding/customizing these timbers. Youre clearly doing the Lords work Jon 😅
Happy to help!
Thanks Jon for putting this out. I now see what I need to do to get spoilerons to work on my T-28. And other things I can do with my other planes. 👍
Wow! Never realized how little I knew about setting this plane up! Thanks.
There's a lot to it if you want it to perform better than it does stock. Of course, this can be said about most models.
@@TwoBrosRC I could not quite catch the replacement servos you used. Links on such things can be exceedingly helpful. Do you get a commission from HH? Perhaps you should ask for that. I would buy a plane you reviewed and instructed on how to set up through such a linkage. Have you flown any of the Addictions? I have the smallest one and have 3 fabulous flights on it so far. A bit pricey and not as robust as a foamy but boy does it perform and I can’t really do squat yet.
No commissions here from any RC company. I do get a small kickback if you buy from my Amazon links though. tinyurl.com/B11DLS is the servo I'm using here.
Haven't flown any PA models yet.
Good video. I’ve had a couple of Timber X’s and never could get more than 100% servo movement. I thought it was a limit set in the receiver. How do you get that much more throw? Thanks!
Edit: And I just read another post where you explained…which is what I thought I would have to do…Thanks again!
Nice video. Got a kick out of your "older" airframes. My oldest is a TopFlight Contender balsa kit that was my "warbird trainer" with an OS -70II four-stroke (third glow engine) that I have been flying since 1989. ;-)
I doubt your 1989 model was made with EPO foam though. ;) This Timber X is basically ancient considering it's close to two years old and has flown over 800 times.
Hi Jon, I recently picked up the Night Timber X. I bought the AGFRC 9g servos you're running. My question is, what servo horns are you using? The ones that come with the plane don't fit the spline on the AGF servos, and the ones that come with the servos seem way too small. Please help, Thank you!
I'm using the stock horns - the ones that came with the Timber X. They take a bit of work to fit into the AGF servos but will fit in if you force them to. Mine have been on there for 1.6 years now.
@@TwoBrosRC Thanks again for the help Jon! I see what you mean, they are stubborn to get started, but once you get them to stay, you can use the screw to get them down. I appreciate your help!
What servos exactly are you using? The b9dlm or b11dls?
Can you please do a detailed radio setup video for this? I know you sort of go over it but I’d love to know all the switch setups and how you activate them and everything. I’m trying to follow in this video but it’s a lot and I’m on the nx8, not the ix20. Would be much appreciated.
Try joining our Discord server and asking for assistance in the #tech-and-setup channel: bit.ly/TBRCDiscord
Appreciate this post!!
Great video. I echo your statement on the durability of this plane. I have stalled mine to the ground herd 4 times. Once so hard I shattered the carbon rods in the nose. I replaced them, glued the nose and the landing gear back on and she flies great.
What is the spectrum mixing bug you mentioned in the video?
The mixing bug is where the transmitter expects channels to be in a specific order but you've reordered the channels manually, causing it to bug out. You can see it on display in certain models like my Turbo Timber where I need to mix ELE to LAL to mix flaps, and mix ELE to FLP to mix ailerons for crow.
Thank you for the radio setup. I'm going to try this.
I wish HH would start to use T screw heads for the screws when building these. Esp the smaller version models.
I hate that they generally use very soft metal Phillips style heads. Esp for the landing gear. Those screws are easily the most often removed if you use floats or skis like I do. Those screws are very soft metal.
Great video! I'll try this stuff out on my Bushmaster:)
Hi Jon, great video. Can you possibly explain further to what improvements you did on the landing gear? Had a small crash but the retainers of the springs broke off! Had you a similar problem and how did you fix? Thanks
I didn't really do anything else to it aside from reinforce them with Gorilla Glue eight months ago. That was only because the gear mount in the fuselage suffered some damage and I had to re-seat it properly.
hmm, instead of zip ties, I've just been marking the left wires with sharpie on both sides of the connection. Marked wires go together. Easy and even lighter.
Hey Jon. As always, I love the technical detail you provide in your videos. I experiment a lot with my Night TimberX. Its an old beater for me, hence I don't hesitate to experiment. Would you have a moment to answer a mixing question for me. My setup: Night TimberX upgraded with an 8360T Receiver. Every servo is plugged into its own port on the receiver. All works very well. I'm now trying to set up full span ailerons (flaperons) triggered by switch E on my iX12. P-Mix 1: AIL>RFL: Switch E. P-Mix2: AX1>LFL. My left flap will not move in sync with my left aileron. It moves in the opposite direction. Is this what you refer to as the Spektrum mixing bug (my software is the latest revision. It's as if I need a servo reverse function as part of mixing. I don't see that as an option. Do you know of a work around? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Try changing the channel you're controlling with aileron until it works, or reverse the flap servo if that needs changed. It's difficult to troubleshoot from text alone, but it does sound like the mix just isn't targeting the correct channel - or that the mix needs to be reversed. If you're currently using -100 and -100, try 100 and 100 instead.
Thanks Jon. Tanks for those suggestions. I got it working. Turns out I didn’t need two mixes. A single Aileron to flap mix solved it for me.
If I’m working on my rc plane ant I need to have the power on I take off the prop
We don't.
@@TwoBrosRC I do it so I don’t cut my self if I bump the transmitter but different people do different things and it’s up to them what they do
How did you get your flaps not to go straight up when the switch is in a forward position. Whenever I use flaps on a 3 position switch, they go up as spoiler is when the switch goes up. How could I make the neutral point on the servo to be the forward point on my transmitter switch.
It'll be easier to explain these concepts on our Discord server via the #tech-and-setup channel: bit.ly/TBRCDiscord
So the lights get plugged into the bind port? Thanks for the video really appreciate it
Yup.
Could you do a detailed setup overview for this plane? You sort of gloss over your mixes but you don’t go into the mix setup or switch setup. I want to run your setup instead of the factory suggested, but I can’t figure it out on my own. Well, not with my 2 kids asking me questions every 15 seconds. I’m using an nx8 and I have the rest of it all set up, just need to know your mixes for the 1 ail 2 flap setup you run. I’d be happy to donate some operations money to the channel. I’d greatly appreciate the help.
Join us on Discord via bit.ly/TBRCDiscord and Jon will be happy to help with any specific questions you have. Be sure to post in the #tech-and-setup channel!
For crow and flaperons is it required to have two delegate channels for each flap and aileron?
Yes.
Great Video.
Are those AGF servos 180° rotation? I saw a review on Amazon that said they were only 90°. I am wanting to get a little more throw on the ailerons on my 1.5 m timber.
They move about 140 degrees with 150% rates. 180 degrees won't help you much because the ailerons on a Timber can only physically move so far before they bind.
Love this video! Wasn't sure if you covered it but did you max out the mechanical set up ie clevises and horns at max travel and then 150?
Also are you able to do safe on off, reverse thrust, full span ailerons and flap mixing as well as crow with an nx8? What are your preferred switch assignments?
Going to try to program mine via what I've learned in your vid!
Hey man! I did set up the linkages for maximum effect. Clevises on the outermost hole on the wing surfaces, innermost hole on the rudder and elevator horns. Outermost hole on all servo arms. You can set up everything seen in this video with an 8ch radio. With regard to switch assignments, could you be more specific?
@@TwoBrosRC Awesome to know! really love that someone out there is doing vids that show what can be done "outside the box" on these planes. in terms of switch assignments, i was curious how you set your radio up for ergonomics? like do you prefer flaps on a certain side for last minute landing throws, same with snap/elevator flaps? in case you need to adjust quickly or go back to all off. or reverse thrust being better on one side versus another? same with safe select and throttle cut and dual rates- theres so many switches sometimes it's nice to see how someone else does a set up that you can base yours off of.
i also saw in another comment that you mentioned unlocking the rx for 150% - did you have a vid on this or would you do one in the future, interested to learn more! i noticed in the nx8 i can only go to 125, but really 125 seems identical to 100 when i A/B them. does that probably mean it's locked? would it be worth unlocking or just maximizing mechanical throws?
i also realized i probably cannot do crow with the stock night timber x receiver because it only has 7 channels, and you'd need 8 for crow correct?
really appreciate you help and your vids! def subscribed!
@@TwoBrosRCwhy outermost hole on wing surfaces? Wouldn’t going to the innermost hole give the most travel? Not sure why rudder and elevator need innermost hole for max travel yet the wing surfaces need outermost?
Revisiting this really good video and I just wanted to ask if you kept the settings from Eflite in the RX or if you cleaned it and started on a "fresh" RX?
I reset it and used my own settings in Forward Programming.
@@TwoBrosRC can you make changes to the gain in forward programming after you reset the Rx or just at the beginning when you do the first setup?
Jon, Do you know if the Night Timber X wing will fit on the Turbo Timber Evo? Just wondering, Thanks.
It should fit just fine.
Ive noticed ALL ur planes r really shiny. Are you using the minwax clear gloss paint? (I have, & do but so far only my extra 300 & FMS pitts are THAT shiny!) So shiny you need shades on a sunny day! 😁👍
Nah, only my Extra, 737, and Pitts are shiny. The rest are just as they come from the factory. I use Minwax polycrylic and brush it on, though I suspect I'd get better results if I learned how to spray it on correctly.
@@TwoBrosRC
I spray mine, same paint. Yours/your brush on Method looks better than my aerosol! 👍
Are you using the servo arms that come with the AGF servos. They are quite a bit shorter than the stock servo arms. The stock servo arms do not fit on the AGF servos.. I haven't installed them but I suspect at 150 travel setting, I will get all the throw that is necessary even with the shorter servo arm.
Nope, I use the stock arms and made them fit by jamming them in and screwing them tight. Haven't had a single issue with the stock arms in 1.5 years of flying this model.
Awesome video Jon, thank you for sharing with the rest of us!
I'm curious, why did you change the stock servos? (Because the originals stripped, they're just bad, or just your personal servo preference?)
BTW, I just got my banged up Timber X setup with these mixes, and can't wait to try these out! :-) Thanks again!
Glad you enjoyed! I changed the servos because they're not precise and don't have as much torque as the AGF servos do. Precision is everything for flap compensation on the elevator - the stock servos will move to 5 or 7%, but not 6% - if that makes sense. You give the model the elevator comp required for full or takeoff flaps and it'll float upward because the servos don't actually move to the position the manual calls for. The AGF servos will, and they'll hold tight with the torque they put out.
Nevermind about the servos Jon, I had missed your final comments, where you explain its about precision! :-)
@@TwoBrosRC good to know!
I’m nowhere near your skills, but the idea is to get there 😊.
I’ll have to give those servos a try! Thanks again! 🙏🏼
@@OraTab You'll get there! All it takes is practice.
I’m finding it impossible to get flaperons. It would be magical if you could go into more depth bc you say it’s easy but I’ve been here for the last three hours working on that alone and I CANNOT get the flaps to move independently with the corresponding Aileron. Both flaps will only move with one aileron. I’m scared to try that in flight but maybe it works idk. But it’s not what I want I know that. Please help lol
You have to put both of the flaps on separate channels and physically plug each one into the receiver without the Y-cable. The rest of the info is in the vid.
If you keep running into issues, join us on Discord and one of our community members will be happy to assist: bit.ly/TBRCDiscord
Wow, its pretty amazing that you push your battery into the fuselage like that, not even close to the battery straps....center of gravity on this plane must be very forgiving
It doesn't move much further back than it would if it were in the position the straps would have been in. We don't even have the straps - they're removed. No real reason to fly with them.
At the one minute mark you are shoving it 4/5 of the way into the fuselage. I' ve tested mine with a 4 cell 2200 and can do likewise. You might be able to get one strap on the edge of it. Per the manual's center of gravity explanation, the plane still comes in tolerance levels. Perhaps you could use the metal elevator rod if you moved your battery into the hatch.... Did you disable SAFE? I would have destroyed this plane a dozen times by now without it. LOL - Thanks for being so responsive to my questions. Love your channel. This is my go to plane and you cover it better than anyone else.
@@superdow1000 Nope, haven't needed the straps in over 700 flights. It just doesn't get thrown out of the model even during crazy maneuvering. I wouldn't worry about it much. We have SAFE enabled but only use it rarely.
When I flap mix, my left flap goes the opposite direction of the left aileron. But it functions normally as a flap 😅
Invert the mix and that should fix it.
I own about 13 3d planes and have been flying for about 2 years now. I purchased this plane and I have about 12 flights on it. I don't want to be the guy that blames the plane. Cause it definitely can be pilot error. But I never crash any of my other planes. Every flight with this plane when I make a turn towards the end of my flight I spirals straight down to towards the ground. Is this a characteristic of this plane? Does it have a nasty stall when you turn sharp?
The answer is unfortunately "it depends" - the Timber X does stall pretty hard, but it's not unrecoverable at all due to the massive thrust to weight ratio.
Try joining us on Discord and posting a video in the channel called #3d so we can look it over with you: bit.ly/TBRCDiscord
What receiver are you using? the one it comes with only has 6 channels and all are used. thanks
AR637, the stock receiver. The lights are plugged into channel 5. You can, and should, plug them into the bind port to free up a channel.
Thanks for the video! I have one flap that is moving in reverse. The other one works fine. Any ideas?
Make sure they're plugged into separate channels and reversed / mixed according to the vid.
For the harrier flap mix, do you use 100%/100% mix, so a 1:1 ratio where the flaps move the same amount and rate as the elevator or do you use a certain percentage?
It's a 1-1 ratio - should be covered in the vid.
Rocking a nx8 and have a night timber x coming.... I eventually want to do the upgraded servos and expand throw limits but- for maiden and for learning the next few weeks what would be a good mild dual rates and expo to set each rate for (low mid highs) ---- and can I program reverse thrust the same as I did on my turbo timber evo (scrolling right to avian and setting up reverse and braking? Thanks for all you do to put out videos-
You can't program reverse that way, unfortunately. The manual goes over it - you just ensure that you've set the seventh channel to use for thrust reverse and it should be good to go. Any other channel requires using a programmer box, unless Horizon is shipping the Smart 60a ESC in this model unlocked now.
I can't really give specific advice on rates - I just fly on 150% with 70% expo at all times. I don't see a point in limiting throws unless a specific maneuver can't be accomplished at 150% rates.
I'm not a novice, but not a pro. I like capable flying. Holy quapamoly, this IS a setup!! You sent me the link a while ago. I've finally busted out my Night Timber X and have looked at your settings. I have a DX8 G2, I'm unsure if this will work. How many channels does this use?? Thanks for your reply and videos. AirHammer out!!
Just six total. Eight if you want crow.
@@TwoBrosRC That was fast!!:). Thank you for your response and great videos.
This helps and magnifies the hobby for everyone above beginner. 👍👍
When you changed the servos did you have to use a reverse servo on one flap like the original setup.
It's been a long time since we did this setup video. The way this is done would necessitate having the flaps operate as ailerons so it wouldn't matter if it needed to be reversed or not - but chances are we would have had to reverse it with a dedicated channel regardless.
Do you have a clear picture of the wiring where you moved the lights to thanks
The lights weren't moved.
? 4:06 in the video said you added a Y cable to free up a port for the flaps just wanted to see how you did it all good thanks
The way you phrased it made it sound like we'd moved lighting around in the aircraft. Connect the lights to the bind port. Make sure the negative (black) wire is facing down when connecting it to the receiver.
@@TwoBrosRC man so simple thank you! never gave the bind port a thought
Which receiver are you using? Could I use an AR620 to do everything shown except as3x/safe?
Stock receiver, AR637TA. A 620 would let you do everything except have gyro functionality.
Ok, thank you! Do I need a programming card for reverse?
Shouldn't. For more questions and more timely responses, try visiting the TBRC Discord via bit.ly/TBRCDiscord
@TwoBrosRC Do you happen to have a write up so I can program mine like this on my IX14?
Nope - but you can turn on closed captioning and read along.
@@TwoBrosRC yes I tried but having a hard time setting up Flaperons, and Harrier Flaps. I get confused on the mixing
Did you replace any of the hinges? What about the battery straps....those seem pretty flimsy.
Elevator and rudder hinges were redone with nylon steel-pinned hinges roughly 1.5 years ago. We don't use the battery straps, they've been removed. The battery is simply shoved to the back of the compartment and stays there.
Hey Jon, Great video. My new never flown night timber's elevator servo seems to have died while i was setting up. It works once or twice then starts to over heat it seems and stops working completely. I am looking at the servos you have recommended and am noticing the rudder and elevator servos are glued in there with some pretty serious adhesive. Almost a white epoxy i think. how did you remove them without damaging the body?
I just pulled them out. It's a silicone caulk that holds the servos in place. It won't damage anything if you pull them out gently. You can slide a knife behind the servos to help loosen them too.
@@TwoBrosRC thanks man!
Are you flying the 13X5 prop on 4S? or only 3S
4s
Hay jon I got the servo and setting it up, I can’t seem to get the same amount of throw on the flap as the aileron, the flaps do not moves as much even they are set at the same holes. Any ideas what I can do, I’m using a nx8
You'll need to adjust the pushrods and control holes on the flaps to make them match. It won't be 1-1, but it will be very close to it if done correctly.
How easy was the servo replacement in the wings? I crashed and the noes cracked so after fixing that I’m thinking of upgrading the servos
It's super easy.
@@TwoBrosRC awesome! I’m not running spektrum so I don’t have the gyro anymore, thinking new servos may help with the control… I’ve also been eyeing a flex innovations plane😅
Are the wing servo's (aileron and flap) glued in? Mine came with misaligned control horn that is not centered at neutral. Not sure how to get the control horn off with out ripping the servo out. Plus how in the heck did you get 150 percent without binding on those flaps? Mine bind at 100% when I give it full aileron the mixing increases the throw. I had to dig out foam around the clevis and it still binds up. Just not sure why it wasn't aligned before gluing in the servo's like that. Also my gear didn't fair very well in small crash where I lost all control and it just dumped into the tall grass on the first flight. I'm very experienced flying wise and was shocked to lose all control like that. It was like the system lost signal or something and just started to spiral into the dirt. I had it up and flying after getting rid of the safe functionality. I thought I was in AX3S mode when in fact it was in safe only mode. After fixing that and getting the gear back together everything flew pretty good. I now want to try and set it up like you have it with full throws and flaperons. My transmitter keep beeping at me with triple beeps early in both of my last flights and I have no idea what that means. I land and check telemetry and everything looks good. What does that triple beep every second mean? I just have an NX6 radio.
They're not. The servos are held in place with plastic harnesses that you unscrew to remove. The only servos glued in place are the elevator and rudder. I'm pretty sure I covered the rates and how the surfaces move - be sure to check over that section if you're curious. Stock servos on this model are less than ideal, hence why I linked the replacement servos that I use in the description - way more torque and way more precision.
If your transmitter is beeping, it's probably because you have a Smart Battery warning going off. Check the telemetry screen and it should tell you.
@@TwoBrosRC This is great, I just took the servo out and could not get the control horn to line up 90 degree's to the servo case, so I just inserted a wood shim on one side of the servo to create the proper 90 degree alignment to the wing. Works like a champ now. The only issue I have now is that there seems to be lot of down trim in the model to make it go straight. I have the battery all the way forward and using the steel rod in the tail section. Maybe the overall flaps and ailerons need to be set higher up but something needs to be changed to level out that elevator otherwise knife edge will be screwed up.
@@michaelkrailo5725 Try using the carbon rod instead.
@@TwoBrosRC Well, I'll be darn...going to the carbon rod fixed the pitching up problem. Added bonus was I ended up avoiding disaster as the plastic piece on the bottom of the rudder was barely hanging on. Had to gorilla glue it back on, but the plane flies much better now. I do have the battery pretty far back now instead of in the forward position. I'm real happy with it.
@@TwoBrosRC Hi Jon. For the night timber rudder and elevator servos that are glue in, how do you remove them, just pull, or do I need to cut them off, or apply some heat? Thanks
The gear isn't fragile but I've noticed that the mounts are pretty fragile
They're only fragile if you're landing like a monster truck.
What prop do you run?
I'm flying with a Xoar 13x5 prop: tinyurl.com/Xoar13x5
John I loved the video however I still can’t seem to get it to work on my IX 20 right. Any chance I could download the set up from the way you have it set up on my I X 20 How do I go about doing that? Thanks for any help.
The setup should be in tinyurl.com/SynRCSetupFiles Ed. If you don't see it, let me know and I'll reupload it for you.
Thanks Jon, got the download to my tx and will try it with the plane tomorrow👍🤠
Do you use the control horns that come with the agf servoes?
No, we used the stock arms from the Timber.
Hi, do you use the servo arms of the original servos or from the new ones? I think the holes in the servo arms of the replaced servos are quite small.
I use the original arms. They'll fit on the AGF servos with a little coercion.
@@TwoBrosRC Thanks for the quick reply! Just one question: what kind of glue have you used to fix the servos in the fuselage?
A liberal amount of FoamTac properly cured will hold the servos in place.
@@TwoBrosRC Thank you very much. I will try this. Keep up the good work!!
DOES THE GREEN ONE LIGHT UP THE SAME ARE THERE TWO DIFFERENT TYPES CHEERS WONDERING
No, it doesn't.
@@TwoBrosRC THANKYOU FOR REPLY MANY THANKS 😊
I love your videos I just got a Night Timber x 1.2 BNF my elevator servo went bad after one flight and when I was setting up my DX8 Gen2 with hairier flaps and snap flaps when it over heated and quit. I got 6 of your servos and replaced the elevator and rudder servos but haven’t done the wing yet but I plan on it. Got everything working but only have the original RX settings so limited to 100% through. Would it be ok to try what you do for now or should I reset the Rx.
You'd be OK flying it on 100% rates but you'll want this cable to program your receiver and unlock it: bit.ly/3P4a9Kg
This vid goes over the process: ruclips.net/video/F3isbv1U8eM/видео.html
@@TwoBrosRC will I get the same menus on my pc as the video shows on the ix20 transmitter. When I go to my forward programming I don’t get the settings option so I can’t backup my rx the way it is now. I want to reset it but I am afraid I will lose everything.
I have the DX8gen2 transmitter.
With the cable everything is done in the spektrum programmer program on the pc.
@@jvalovcik Make a backup of the existing receiver programming first.
@@TwoBrosRC how do I do that I don’t get the settings option on my transmitter when I go into Forward Programming.
@@jvalovcik You need to unlock the receiver first.
Hello Jon without the H! lol
Tis I.
Wait? Reverse thrust? As in, it'll fly backwards with the stock ESC?
It won't fly backwards with a 13x5, but it comes close to hovering with reverse thrust.
@@TwoBrosRC Wow. Didn't see that coming! Did some more "googling / YouTubing" after my initial comment here / after seeing your video and discovered others using "reverse" for taxing purposes - on land and water... so I "get it" now but yeah, I'm interested in 4D so, was surprised to see... or thought I was seeing that on this LOL. But yeah, still cool it'll stop it & almost hover - that alone would allow me to mess around with some "baby 4D" stuff. :) Definitely inserted in this plane, especially on floats! :) Thanks so much for the reply!
You said 2200 Smart pack? 3S or 4S?
I never run 3s - way too underpowered.
What is you ESC setting?
Default.
@@TwoBrosRC what is the default settings, I just buy the Avian 60 Amp Brushless Smart ESC.
No idea offhand.
What rx are you using in the night timber x?
AR637T
@@TwoBrosRC what the bind procedure on that rx?
Are you turning on the tx and then the rx and it auto binds like the umx stuff does??kinda on its own??
It looked like it from the video
You press the bind button on the receiver and bind the transmitter to it. Once bound, it stays bound.
@@TwoBrosRC OK how about when you connect to another plane and then want to come back to the timber do you have to push any buttons, the bind button then?
You just turn the plane on and switch to the Timber profile. It automatically reconnects to it.