Definitely looks like velvet. Also iche typically doesn't kill as fast. Velvet kills very fast. If you ever have a fish get hit hard like that in the future you need to give it a freshwater dip in order to get the velvet off. It works very well. Also running copper under the therapeutic level is like not running copper at all. It only works when it's high enough. I ran copper in my fowlr tank years ago just fine. Do it for 90 days. Then run a copper remover media to pull it out. Never add another fish before a full quarantine. It's not worth the risk. I treat every fish I get as if it's infected with everything. I treat with copper or run the TTM. I always assume the fish is sick and it has saved me from complete heartache and a lot of money.
Great advice thanks for the input!! Definitely would do things differently now that I have some saltwater experience. After seeing ich in my other tank I agree the disease on this fish is most likely velvet
@@tctanks5293 it’s very hard some people say “ it’s just a fish “ but no to us it’s not just a fish it was a part of the family . I hope this didn’t ruin your first time keeping a hippo tang …
@@kawakami5724 exactly, we have respect for all life even fish. Just a learning lesson that I want to do better with next time 👍 thanks for talking brother!
Sorry to hear about that. I had a ve😮lvet outbreak that crashed my tank a couple years ago The picture and speed of death seems like velvet but the fact that none of your other fish sounds more like ich, since velvet spreads rapidly through the tank and is very lethal - I had only one survivor out of eight fish within a 5 day period. QT and a mature DT definitely help, but in this hobby we’ll always have losses - lots of stress taking these guys out of the ocean, transporting them and then trying to recreate their natural environment…
Lots of good info, thanks for the comment and sorry to hear about your velvet crash /: I agree coming from the ocean to distributors to pet stores to QT to DT has to be a lot on any fish 🐠
6 weeks fishless works with increased temp around 82F but parasites can possibly survive in low flow areas in the sand so it's probably best to go bare bottom while fishless and disinfect the sand. I quarantine every new fish with tank transfer method, metro, prazi, formalin/malachite green and methy blue. Ive been doing that for 10+ years I haven't lost any fish to disease that make it into my display tanks.
That’s awesome, good advice!! Wish I had known back then what I know now. These videos feel embarrassing now but glad I showed my struggle to learn the hobby.
Ok thank you 🙏 Everything happened so fast I haven’t been sure what to do next, might as well finish off the cupramine in here. I have the seachem copper tests but they’re terrible. I need to order the Hanna one tonight
I feel your pain I have a 180 and lost all 8 fish except 1 and guess which one survived BLUE HIPPO smh .. now I got to start all over n the last fish I purchase to complete my tank Emperor fish had marine velvet from LIVE AQUARIA smh now my tank is done treated. They did give me credit for that fish but I'm scared to even purchase any fish from them. But good luck
Oh man sorry to hear that. I felt the same with LiveAquaria and ended up using my credits for fish food 😂 Cupramine saved my tank! Even on the main display it does work 🤙
Dude, sorry to hear. Unfortunately in this hobby we all sustained unfortunate losses. Tangs are ick magnets even when think we don’t have ick. I have had my JBJ running for a year with no issues all fish quarantine and my PB Tang is covered in ick, because my PT Tang bullied the crap out of him. I completed a fresh water treatment with cupermine and added ground ginger to their food. So far, he is doing good as he is now in my 25 reefer.
WOW I hope he survives! I can’t believe how fast my blue tang got it and died. I honestly wish I could start over completely and just QT everything from the beginning. My impatience cost me and now I’m in quite a pickle because I don’t want to OVER copper treat the fish in the main display but still wonder how much ich is in there. I’m Torn between just trying to finish the copper treatment in the DT or just pull them and put in a 40 breeder and switch to copper safe or a different lighter brand and start over.. confusing stuff
@@tctanks5293 no worries. Yeah, unfortunately in this hobby there are no guarantees. My I sprayed some frabreeze in my man cave, and completely crashed my 90 gallon reef tank about three years ago. Learned my lesson and no my man cave is completely restricted from any type of fragrances or other airborne chems. Especially because there are three reef systems in there. The 40 breeder is a great idea and we all have been bitten by the impatience bug, more than I can count. The other fish will be fine, just QT all new additions.
@@blandingka cool thanks for the input. Wowwww that’s insane about the febreeze!! Glad your back in business now 👍 LiveAquaria gave me a credit minus the $40 shipping cost, so just ordered a new blue tang, flame hawk fish, and yellow watchman goby 🤙 going to qt the 3 of those in the 20 gallon and plan to put all DT fish in the 40 breeder and wait 60-90 days until anyone goes back in the display tank. Wish me luck 😂🤞🤞🤞
@@tctanks5293 you got this. Can’t wait to see the content. I really love the flame hawk. They one I want to add to my system. I have the long nose and Flaco hawk fish, but the flame is the best.
@@blandingka I agree!! I’ve checked every pet store for the flame hawk but everyone just had the long nose hawks. Once I saw it was back in stock I said hell yeah I’m ordering!!! Also excited for the yellow watchman, I’ve heard a lot of good things about them 😊
a Q tank or two is an absolute MUST if you want to try to limit the number of $100 bills you flush down the toilet so-to-speak. ALL of my fish purchases, EVERY TIME, from day zero (I researched for over a year before my first fish purchase) went through a minimum of one month in a nearly bare (except PVC tubes to hide in) Q tank. I have 29G and a 40G. I Q'd my 5 yellow tail damsels together in one tank, and my pair of flame angels together, otherwise single fish purchases always Q'd separately, so I could max Q 2 different types of fish at one time. Always one month in Q (if everything goes perfectly, even longer if not) before meeting the others in the big tank. The discipline to follow through on that policy EVERY TIME I am sure saved me thousands of dollars over the 15 years of the tank running. In 15 years with a few tangs (Yellow belly hippo, Powder Brown, Purple, Yellow) a Scribble Angel, a Pair of flame angels etc. I have never one time had cryptocaryon (ich) or velvet or anything I needed to treat the 180 for. Sure I would have an occasional unknown reason death in the 180 but few and far between and never any noted symptoms. No fish rubbing on the rocks etc. All of that funny stuff played out in the Q tanks, and the fish were either treated and recovered and after a clean bill of health for a solid month in the Q afterward went on to meet their new friends or unfortunately at times went from the Q tank to a sad burial at sea... Q'ing your fish as you get them is the absolutely best thing you can possibly do to protect THE REST of your huge investment swimming around in that big tank. I have heard stories of cases of velvet wiping out an entire tank with a dozen fish in it in no time. Limit your exposure best you can. It is well worth the effort in the end. Good luck with your tank, it looks like a new setup, hopefully with many bright colorful years ahead. I wish you the best, and may you learn the expensive lessons early, before they are exponentially more expensive on a full collection of fish. ;) Also one note about Cryptocaryon specifically and it may sound obvious but to many it apparently is not... if there is NO ICH in the tank you will NEVER have a single fish with ich... not one fish.. Not even your "ich magnet sensitive tangs". If you have one fish with ich, YOU HAVE ICH in your tank.... Its that simple no gray areas that many seem to think exist for certain types of fish (tangs). If ANY fish gets it... YOU HAVE IT!
I agree with everything you said, I was running cupramine in the main display. I don’t recommend it but after 5 weeks at .5 it seemed to get rid of all the ich- I now have a QT tank setup and will QT anything from here on out 🤙 But if your in a pinch with a fowlr tank you can do copper treatments in the main display as well but you will have problems with leaching
One thing people need to keep in mind, I admire this chap for his husbandry but copper will not cure a sick fish, copper will begin to kill the parasite in its free swimming stage, it would be like giving someone a flu shot while they have flu, the fishes immune system is already compromised, stress takes over, physical damage such as parasite like white spot can damage gills and the fishes ability to breath, this is where the problem get worse with copper as it will lower absorbed oxygen, always over oxygenate when using copper, tangs stress easy anyway, which is why quarantine is so important with tangs, to ensure white spot and velvet get treated fish by fish and enable the fish to acclimate and be healthy feeding and not stressed prior to its introduction to the main display as that’s a stressful ordeal in itself let alone the capture at the LFS, journey home and introduction to a display full of settled inquisitive territorial tank mates, I refer to wanting to ensure I add clean healthy fish to my tanks and it’s the only way, my fish room treatment quarantine system lasts for 6 weeks minimum before any fish enters the main display tank
@@tctanks5293it’s not a hobby you can jump into and get instant perfect results, you sadly like life have to go through a series of mistakes that push you to learn and seek reasoning for them, and educate yourself further, one thing to throw out there too on the subject of oxygen, never rely on just a skimmer alone to provide the source of oxygen, not all skimmers are the same design wise and some large skimmers won’t expel the oxygenated air the same as others, my Red Sea reefer skimmer for example exits the water control port on the base but the way the base has hollows in the bottom the tiny micro bubbles collect as air pockets rather than makes there way out up into the water flow in the sump, I’m sure some quantity of oxygen rich water does but I now run a fine air stone in the sump compartment as well as the skimmer and the fish seem much more active and colours are more vivid, it increased the ability the recover from white spot too, this was before I stripped the tank down and quarantined and treated all fish, but while the parasite was in the tank the elevated levels of oxygen most certainly had a very positive impact, oxygen absorption is very overlooked in reefing, just assuming a skimmer will do the job is simply not the case I have found, my o2 test kit also backed this up
I also run my intake port on my skimmer via some tubing to outside air, this has a drastic improvement on water ph and therefore alkalinity stability, fresh cold air is denser too and more oxygen rich than air inside the sump compartment
Sorry this happened to ya my favorite go to is ick x if there's no Inverts or coral if so the reef roids medic is the option follow instructions and they work I have saved many fish 😅
Nice! Good to know for the future, from that video on I got smart and started quarantining any new fish with cupramine- I’ve heard ich x is great stuff tho!
Well, to my knowledge, your hippo tang was already stressed out of the amount of water this store put on this fish considered missed handled by this company . I already had a bad experience to hippo tang 3 history die, but finally, one hippo tang survive and very healthy and yet have not give me any issue as yet, and already being months. If you need some ideas 💡 let me know and we both fine way keep hippo tang behavior live
@tctanks5293 , welcome and feel free ask me any questions because my hippo tang still live, finely doing something right but point don't know yet how long going to last me? So far is a months
If you're relying on your Lfs to do the right thing and qt then get out of the hobby. You need to do these things yourself even if your lfs does qt why risk ick, its a pain.
GOOD man the 40 breeder QT tank is the way to go. Can't wait for updates. My entire stock has been in QT since may 17th. It's best to do it right once
Ok awesome that’s going to have to be the route I take, I don’t want to take any chances in the future and just do it right 🤙
Definitely looks like velvet. Also iche typically doesn't kill as fast. Velvet kills very fast. If you ever have a fish get hit hard like that in the future you need to give it a freshwater dip in order to get the velvet off. It works very well. Also running copper under the therapeutic level is like not running copper at all. It only works when it's high enough. I ran copper in my fowlr tank years ago just fine. Do it for 90 days. Then run a copper remover media to pull it out. Never add another fish before a full quarantine. It's not worth the risk. I treat every fish I get as if it's infected with everything. I treat with copper or run the TTM. I always assume the fish is sick and it has saved me from complete heartache and a lot of money.
Great advice thanks for the input!! Definitely would do things differently now that I have some saltwater experience.
After seeing ich in my other tank I agree the disease on this fish is most likely velvet
OMG IM SO SORRY THAT SUCKS !!!!! Man and it’s hard to get the big ones ! Sorry for your loss :((((
Thanks Jaden! I know it’s hard to lose any of these amazing fish
@@tctanks5293 it’s very hard some people say “ it’s just a fish “ but no to us it’s not just a fish it was a part of the family . I hope this didn’t ruin your first time keeping a hippo tang …
@@kawakami5724 exactly, we have respect for all life even fish. Just a learning lesson that I want to do better with next time 👍 thanks for talking brother!
@@tctanks5293 no problem !!
Sorry to hear about that.
I had a ve😮lvet outbreak that crashed my tank a couple years ago
The picture and speed of death seems like velvet but the fact that none of your other fish sounds more like ich, since velvet spreads rapidly through the tank and is very lethal - I had only one survivor out of eight fish within a 5 day period.
QT and a mature DT definitely help, but in this hobby we’ll always have losses - lots of stress taking these guys out of the ocean, transporting them and then trying to recreate their natural environment…
Lots of good info, thanks for the comment and sorry to hear about your velvet crash /:
I agree coming from the ocean to distributors to pet stores to QT to DT has to be a lot on any fish 🐠
6 weeks fishless works with increased temp around 82F but parasites can possibly survive in low flow areas in the sand so it's probably best to go bare bottom while fishless and disinfect the sand. I quarantine every new fish with tank transfer method, metro, prazi, formalin/malachite green and methy blue. Ive been doing that for 10+ years I haven't lost any fish to disease that make it into my display tanks.
That’s awesome, good advice!! Wish I had known back then what I know now. These videos feel embarrassing now but glad I showed my struggle to learn the hobby.
The hippo definitely has ich its very very common with them. Mine went through it brother. But mine survived. KEEP treating that tank get a checker
Ok thank you 🙏 Everything happened so fast I haven’t been sure what to do next, might as well finish off the cupramine in here. I have the seachem copper tests but they’re terrible. I need to order the Hanna one tonight
I feel your pain I have a 180 and lost all 8 fish except 1 and guess which one survived BLUE HIPPO smh .. now I got to start all over n the last fish I purchase to complete my tank Emperor fish had marine velvet from LIVE AQUARIA smh now my tank is done treated. They did give me credit for that fish but I'm scared to even purchase any fish from them. But good luck
Oh man sorry to hear that. I felt the same with LiveAquaria and ended up using my credits for fish food 😂
Cupramine saved my tank! Even on the main display it does work 🤙
Dude, sorry to hear. Unfortunately in this hobby we all sustained unfortunate losses. Tangs are ick magnets even when think we don’t have ick. I have had my JBJ running for a year with no issues all fish quarantine and my PB Tang is covered in ick, because my PT Tang bullied the crap out of him. I completed a fresh water treatment with cupermine and added ground ginger to their food. So far, he is doing good as he is now in my 25 reefer.
WOW I hope he survives! I can’t believe how fast my blue tang got it and died. I honestly wish I could start over completely and just QT everything from the beginning. My impatience cost me and now I’m in quite a pickle because I don’t want to OVER copper treat the fish in the main display but still wonder how much ich is in there. I’m Torn between just trying to finish the copper treatment in the DT or just pull them and put in a 40 breeder and switch to copper safe or a different lighter brand and start over.. confusing stuff
@@tctanks5293 no worries. Yeah, unfortunately in this hobby there are no guarantees. My I sprayed some frabreeze in my man cave, and completely crashed my 90 gallon reef tank about three years ago. Learned my lesson and no my man cave is completely restricted from any type of fragrances or other airborne chems. Especially because there are three reef systems in there. The 40 breeder is a great idea and we all have been bitten by the impatience bug, more than I can count. The other fish will be fine, just QT all new additions.
@@blandingka cool thanks for the input. Wowwww that’s insane about the febreeze!! Glad your back in business now 👍 LiveAquaria gave me a credit minus the $40 shipping cost, so just ordered a new blue tang, flame hawk fish, and yellow watchman goby 🤙 going to qt the 3 of those in the 20 gallon and plan to put all DT fish in the 40 breeder and wait 60-90 days until anyone goes back in the display tank. Wish me luck 😂🤞🤞🤞
@@tctanks5293 you got this. Can’t wait to see the content. I really love the flame hawk. They one I want to add to my system. I have the long nose and Flaco hawk fish, but the flame is the best.
@@blandingka I agree!! I’ve checked every pet store for the flame hawk but everyone just had the long nose hawks. Once I saw it was back in stock I said hell yeah I’m ordering!!! Also excited for the yellow watchman, I’ve heard a lot of good things about them 😊
a Q tank or two is an absolute MUST if you want to try to limit the number of $100 bills you flush down the toilet so-to-speak. ALL of my fish purchases, EVERY TIME, from day zero (I researched for over a year before my first fish purchase) went through a minimum of one month in a nearly bare (except PVC tubes to hide in) Q tank. I have 29G and a 40G. I Q'd my 5 yellow tail damsels together in one tank, and my pair of flame angels together, otherwise single fish purchases always Q'd separately, so I could max Q 2 different types of fish at one time. Always one month in Q (if everything goes perfectly, even longer if not) before meeting the others in the big tank. The discipline to follow through on that policy EVERY TIME I am sure saved me thousands of dollars over the 15 years of the tank running. In 15 years with a few tangs (Yellow belly hippo, Powder Brown, Purple, Yellow) a Scribble Angel, a Pair of flame angels etc. I have never one time had cryptocaryon (ich) or velvet or anything I needed to treat the 180 for. Sure I would have an occasional unknown reason death in the 180 but few and far between and never any noted symptoms. No fish rubbing on the rocks etc. All of that funny stuff played out in the Q tanks, and the fish were either treated and recovered and after a clean bill of health for a solid month in the Q afterward went on to meet their new friends or unfortunately at times went from the Q tank to a sad burial at sea... Q'ing your fish as you get them is the absolutely best thing you can possibly do to protect THE REST of your huge investment swimming around in that big tank. I have heard stories of cases of velvet wiping out an entire tank with a dozen fish in it in no time. Limit your exposure best you can. It is well worth the effort in the end. Good luck with your tank, it looks like a new setup, hopefully with many bright colorful years ahead. I wish you the best, and may you learn the expensive lessons early, before they are exponentially more expensive on a full collection of fish. ;) Also one note about Cryptocaryon specifically and it may sound obvious but to many it apparently is not... if there is NO ICH in the tank you will NEVER have a single fish with ich... not one fish.. Not even your "ich magnet sensitive tangs". If you have one fish with ich, YOU HAVE ICH in your tank.... Its that simple no gray areas that many seem to think exist for certain types of fish (tangs). If ANY fish gets it... YOU HAVE IT!
I agree with everything you said, I was running cupramine in the main display. I don’t recommend it but after 5 weeks at .5 it seemed to get rid of all the ich- I now have a QT tank setup and will QT anything from here on out 🤙
But if your in a pinch with a fowlr tank you can do copper treatments in the main display as well but you will have problems with leaching
Well said
One thing people need to keep in mind, I admire this chap for his husbandry but copper will not cure a sick fish, copper will begin to kill the parasite in its free swimming stage, it would be like giving someone a flu shot while they have flu, the fishes immune system is already compromised, stress takes over, physical damage such as parasite like white spot can damage gills and the fishes ability to breath, this is where the problem get worse with copper as it will lower absorbed oxygen, always over oxygenate when using copper, tangs stress easy anyway, which is why quarantine is so important with tangs, to ensure white spot and velvet get treated fish by fish and enable the fish to acclimate and be healthy feeding and not stressed prior to its introduction to the main display as that’s a stressful ordeal in itself let alone the capture at the LFS, journey home and introduction to a display full of settled inquisitive territorial tank mates, I refer to wanting to ensure I add clean healthy fish to my tanks and it’s the only way, my fish room treatment quarantine system lasts for 6 weeks minimum before any fish enters the main display tank
Good tips 🤙 I’ve learned a lot from the beginning of this, definitely Quarantine is essential with this hobby! Appreciate the comment 👍
@@tctanks5293it’s not a hobby you can jump into and get instant perfect results, you sadly like life have to go through a series of mistakes that push you to learn and seek reasoning for them, and educate yourself further, one thing to throw out there too on the subject of oxygen, never rely on just a skimmer alone to provide the source of oxygen, not all skimmers are the same design wise and some large skimmers won’t expel the oxygenated air the same as others, my Red Sea reefer skimmer for example exits the water control port on the base but the way the base has hollows in the bottom the tiny micro bubbles collect as air pockets rather than makes there way out up into the water flow in the sump, I’m sure some quantity of oxygen rich water does but I now run a fine air stone in the sump compartment as well as the skimmer and the fish seem much more active and colours are more vivid, it increased the ability the recover from white spot too, this was before I stripped the tank down and quarantined and treated all fish, but while the parasite was in the tank the elevated levels of oxygen most certainly had a very positive impact, oxygen absorption is very overlooked in reefing, just assuming a skimmer will do the job is simply not the case I have found, my o2 test kit also backed this up
I also run my intake port on my skimmer via some tubing to outside air, this has a drastic improvement on water ph and therefore alkalinity stability, fresh cold air is denser too and more oxygen rich than air inside the sump compartment
Sorry this happened to ya my favorite go to is ick x if there's no Inverts or coral if so the reef roids medic is the option follow instructions and they work I have saved many fish 😅
Nice! Good to know for the future, from that video on I got smart and started quarantining any new fish with cupramine- I’ve heard ich x is great stuff tho!
Well, to my knowledge, your hippo tang was already stressed out of the amount of water this store put on this fish considered missed handled by this company . I already had a bad experience to hippo tang 3 history die, but finally, one hippo tang survive and very healthy and yet have not give me any issue as yet, and already being months. If you need some ideas 💡 let me know and we both fine way keep hippo tang behavior live
Thanks for the comment. Yeah I didn’t have the best experience with that company…
@tctanks5293 , welcome and feel free ask me any questions because my hippo tang still live, finely doing something right but point don't know yet how long going to last me? So far is a months
Mine just died. No reason, no one else has it.
That sucks bro sorry to hear that
Your thumbnail looks like velvet
That’s what I thought too /:
If you're relying on your Lfs to do the right thing and qt then get out of the hobby. You need to do these things yourself even if your lfs does qt why risk ick, its a pain.
Thanks for the comment 🤙
Yes 100%
Now that I’ve experienced “winging” it I’ll be doing qt with any new fish coming in.