Cheap and Easy C10 Patina Buffing
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- Опубликовано: 15 ноя 2020
- Follow along as I buff the ratty paint on General Crustard, our C10 Pick Up. I think it turned out pretty good for what I started with. Let me know how this process turned out for you on your ride.
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I did that on a 1987 chevy r20, shined up nice! Great video
Came on extremely helpful, I have a 85 k10 that's the 9v4 which is like big bird yellow. I've had the truck since 2016 and maybe washed and waxed it once. Got my truck half done and the buffet gave up the ghost
I did a video showing the same thing, same compound and same color truck! Great stuff!
That was surprising! I did not expect that.
Now I know how my crusty truck will turn out after I'm done doing this. Very nice by the way
Nice work, nice video.
Looks great!
Glad to see that people still buff vehicles , with old paint. I , myself, am tired of "patina" . It doesn't have to be show paint, just a nice clean paint job.
Thanks! I have been restoring vintage vehicles for over 30 years, always trying to make them perfect. I’m getting tired of that. Shiny paint causes stress… 😉👍
I like the look of the old factory paint with imperfections over a mediocre paintjob, which can still be costly, especially when they find all the Bondo that could be hidind. Perceptions are always individualized.
Damn, I wish I had enough paint left to be able to do that. I'm afraid I'll hit bare metal. 😂 Looks great!
good paint shop or detailing place can measure the thickness for you.
Daaaang that worked out good brotha!!
Looks great, I don't like bright yellow at all but that tone of yellow they used on old cars was pretty sweet.
Mine is the bright yellow your speaking of. Well mine is the 9v4 almost like big bird yellow and I'm not a fan either but it waxed good after this vid but.mune is and will always be a work horse
thanks for the info.. Ive got an 83 same color. cheers!
I need to do the same with my 79 c10.
Well done.
I have done that next you should do the windshield
I believe I would have used soap and water hose on it first
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@Max Mario instablaster :)
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Killer job
Nice. I bought a machine from harbor freight. Haven’t used it yet so not sure if it has speed control. I also bought foam pads. Are those coarser than wool pad or is it okay to use them. I think I got two different colors. Blue and green or yellow can’t remember. I also got meguairs rubbing compound from harbor freight too.
I use 3M tan wool pads and perfect it cutting compound for coarse initial cutting followed up by a black foam pad with Perfect it II machine polish for final buffing. The blue foam pad is used only for final swirl removing.
Got a 1949 Studebaker PU. Did that People, can't believe it is original paint .
Soap and water does miracles
Hey Crusty. You should have cleaned it at the jet wash?!
Didn’t run at the time and the garbage all over it just adds to the fun….
Nice demo👍
What is the story on the transtar no mix mix bank?? Never seen that setup before
It’s from my old shop. It’s the rack for toner storage for the no mix system.
@@getoutndrive cool,I have used transtar clear in the 90s" loved it" .didn't know they made base coat also lol
Bought a variable speed buffer to maybe start on my 70’ ford. I used a scotch brite pad and water to get the oxidation off.
What exactly is the compound you used?
I used 3M perfect it 06085
I used 3M perfect it 06085
Much of the paint on my ‘85 squarebody looks like this but there are half dollar size spots of rust here and there. I imagine you wouldn’t want to run the buffer over that. Does anyone have a recommendation on how I should tackle those rust spots in order to buff the area it’s on?
Buff the rust spots down with scotch bright or steel wool than linseed oil them or just polish over them. The problem is you don't want rust flakes in your polishing pad.
Just bought a 73 f100 from my friend..its red and hasn't been washed in 25 years...hoping I can get it as SHINEY as yours😅
I bet you can!
What was the cutting agent you used?
Great host Well done
What M3 product did you use I'm about to buff a 62 lincoln continental and would like any help from a professional so any advice is appreciated
I used 3M perfect it 06085
Just bought 46 ford Deluxe running and same issue on paint ,how would I get to small curves rounded area where big buffer won't Get to narrow areas,thanks
You can get a Velcro backup pad kit and a tiny wool pad followed by a foam pad. I’ve purchased them from Harbour freight.
www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers-buffers/polishing-pads-wheels-accessories/polisher-accessory-kit-6-pc-64607.html
Hi there what's the first product in the clear cup you used? Need to shine my '66 chevy pick up
It’s simply just water to clean off the initial layers of crud.
Cool, now the 3mm compound can it also be fine by hand if I don't have a buffer
@@anggonza18 Yes, but it will take longer to get a good shine and finish.
What do you do around oxidized rust areas?
If there is rust through, then I’d buff near to the rusted areas and finish the rest by hand.
What kind of 3M product did you use
3M perfect it 06085
i need this done to my c10, s10, and g8. When are you available lol jk looks like i need to get some of that 3m compound. I have built a lot of those trucks there is alot of ways to go.
It's the same compound I used on Dale. It truly is the best compound out there.
@@OldeCarrGuy yea ol blue needs it bad. And im thinking about doing the same to merv lol
What you used for compound?
3M 06085 Perfect it. Available at any auto body supply store or online.
nationalautobodywholesalers.com/product/3m-6085-perfect-it-rubbing-compound/
Where you located? Would love for I to save my suv
St. Louis, MO
The rust holes in the front of the hood offset the shiny top. Would not work for me. Everyone is different.
Penetrol is just Boiled linseed oil with a little solvent in it. You can make the same exact stuff by adding a little mineral spirits to boiled linseed oil. However there are problems with both of those. The problem with boiled linseed oil/penetrol is that: 1. It isn't waterproof (so humidity still gets through it). and 2. It is extremely hard to remove if you dont like it on your vehicle. So when you layer it on every 3-6 months you are making a big build up of coating and how are you gonn get that off when you been doing that for years? the only way is sanding and chiseling. Theres a much better old farmers product called "Wellers". It was produced back in the 1940s for the steel parts of WWII planes. The aluminum didnt rust but to preserve the steel bolts and wheels etc they used Wellers. It uses some lab produced formulation of oils and polymers to block all the humidity from coming through onto the steel. It is also a wipe on thing like BLO (boiled linseed oil) / penetrol but with much better results and better at patina locking in. The bottle I got has lasted forever too. I wouldn't let yellowing BLO/penetrol near my ride unless i wanted a gummy mess I couldn't remove. you'll noticed that buildup/yellowing over time. If you only have one layer on now I'd remove it before it cures for years (use mineral spiritrs or rubbing alcohol to get a young layer off) and then get that Wellers stuff I mention.
you wrecked it!
Maybe you should wash it first
Wash it outside! All you did was make mud from the dirt that is still there.
What product did you use? 3M. what?
No never did it before