Initial calculations are correct but later he is trying by guessing. Here is how to calculate and not guess and try: if you want to reduce rpm by 500 and keep the same speed you need to reduce rear sprocket teeth. 3500/4000 = 0.875 Then 42 teeth sprocket should be reduced to: 42x0.875 = 36.75 rounding it up to 37 teeth. Thank you.
After so many years, this has to be the clearest, most useful video on the subject. I had no trouble following your train of thought. Thank you for making this video! It helped me a lot.
You forget t mention what happens to the torque, whis is important when you hit a slope. If you reduce the teeth on the rear sprocket by too much you will need to gear down more often. The magic is a combination of speed n power which the manufacturer has figured works best. And on the CBR, YOU WILL mess your speedo n odo.....so? Please cover these issues. At the end of the day it all boils down to your personal preferences.
Gearingcommander.com is a hugely useful tool. Probably more useful if you understand this stuff, but it does the maths for you. And has a ton of info pre loaded on virtually any bike you could think of
You also need to consider chain tension if you don't want to shorten or purchase a new chain. If you want drastic changes adjust both in the opposite direction. If your looking to increase rpm and gain torque decrease teeth in front and or increase teeth in the back; this decreases top speed. Larger sprocket in the front and or smaller in the rear and you increase top speed but lose torque. See if you can find dyno numbers on your bike and adjust the sprockets to the max torque and horsepower for the rpm range you ride in most. Example - Honda grom: I'm 300 lbs and needed torque and higher rpms, so I dropped one tooth in the front. This allowed me to get up hills and max out the rpms. I may have lost a couple mph of top speed but take off and hill climbing improved drastically. Most likely why the newer models went to a five speed. Front sprockets are cheaper and I would suggest adjusting by one tooth only. If you speed reads off wheel speed your fine otherwise you will need a tune for correct speeds. Check with gps to confirm.
This is full bs, you didn't mention in the end when you wanted to drop 500rpm, that if you wan't to calculate the front sprocket, you can't calculate the numbers in the same way you calculate the rear sprocket. If you wan't to find the 0,875 ratio in the front and wan't to drop 500rpm, you can't calculate it like 14 (14,875)/17 = 0,875!! Because the smaller front sprocket will give you more rpms! Why didn't you show this in the video? You can't always put the smaller number and dive it by the bigger in here. If you wan't to gain 500 rpm in rear, calculate 42*1,125. If you wan't to lose 500rpm in rear --> 42*0,875. If you wan't to gain 500rpm in front calculate 17*0,875 and to lose 17*1,125. Why not explain this!!?
Very well explanation thanx mate and i think this also increases milage of your bike on highway as you are on low rpm compare to stock. actually this makes ratio taller and i personally like taller gear ratio cuz i ride on highways it makes your bike smooth like butter on high speed cruising
Do not throw your money away changing the sockets. This will only make 2 results: 1. this will improve starting off (launching) 2. this will increase your RPM in top gear at highway speeds. Changing the sprockets is changing the final gearing on your cycle. Changing the final gearing means nothing. What really matters is overall gearing. Overall gearing is everything from the engine to the rear tire. Overall gearing is a affected by these areas: 1. Manual Transmission 2. Drive sprockets (final gearing) 3. Tire size (actually have to change rim diameter to change tire size much) It is a very common misunderstanding that changing the sprockets will mean you'll always have lower gearing. That is not true. You have a manual transmission. That allows you to have what ever gear ratio you want. If you like the power of low gearing then don't shift until redline for all I care. Shifting at redline is not what you really want unless you are drag racing. My point is you can decide how high you want your RPM to go before shifting. If you like low RPM for fuel efficiency shift early and keep your RPMs low. Once you get in top gear you can't shift up any more. That's why I say changing the sprockets will affect the RPM on the highway.
42/17=2.47 .... change the front for more acceleration so say a 16 , 42/16=2.63 .....263-247=16 ....263/16= irony 16% so changing a tooth on the front down gives you 16% more excelleration. Sod top end , getting theres the fun bit .
Well, i got Hornet 900 and i HATE that it screams in 6th at 100kmh -_- Basicly no difference between 5th and 6th, such an oversight if u ask me, you buy a CBR if u wanna race, and buy CB if you want to commute and cruise, i really dont get why its geared that way. I think the bike will force me to put much less teeth, or sell it and buy another bike that has a long fucking 6th gear. Great tutorial btw, i finnaly get it, i was allways forgetting what does what xd
I'm dyslexic, and this was too many numbers for me to comprehend. So short and simple, changing my front sprocket is not an option in my case. However I'm upgrading my entire rear tire/ rim from spoke to mag rim. (Primarily because I keep bending the spoke rims) This forces me to change some mounting adapters, currently I have 42T on the rear large sprocket, Some of the longer steeper hills I can hear and feel the bike struggle to climb. But on flat straight road I'm averaging 22 mph at full throttle. So my dilemma is it wouldn't hurt to have more hill climbing power, but I'm riding on highway roads and can't afford to lose speed. I need to keep up with the slow lane traffic. Most the slow traffic is at least 35 mph. the adapter for the mag rim I'm looking at online is set up with a 36T sprocket. How will the difference between the 42T and the 36T help or hurt me? I am very limited what I can change. This is a bicycle with a 2 cycle motor on it. So I know I'm not any where near what a normal motorcycle has for engine ability.
I have a SWM RS500. The standard hearing is 13/47=3.6153846153846 . At general rule one at the front is equal to 3 at the rear. So my my gearing from the factory is pretty good. I just change the front to get a reasonable gear change. The big problem is the bikes ability to hold the gear load. Also it's easier to change the front sprocket out there on the track.. it's all to do with the stall point of your bike. If you own an old school bike that has plenty crank your bike will carry pretty stupid gear ratios. But unfortunately theses late model bike don't and most developed torqued thru engine management systems. I carry a 13 and 15..
There's a limit what you can do with changing sprockets. Remember that you still have gears. And each gear has a certain ratio. If you increase the rear sprocket enough, you'l jjust make the 6th gear essentially a 5th gear.
Yeah a lot of people just sell sell sell, they forget about weight x ring rolls tire size ECT ECT hobb made weight punch it's not just go larger and it will have better horse more tourq. Case the guy with a life chain nicer roll less friction and less weight along with proper hobb and tire size you might just get burnt.
If increasing the numbers of teeth at rear end sprocket by 3 Teeth from the stock rear sprocket..do I have to change the chain as a whole or do I need to get a new chain with more linkage?
great video thank you... i do have a question... if i keep the same rear sprocket and i increase 1 t in the front i can have more torque exiting from corners right? my engine will produce a little more torque and higher rpm.
No. If you want more torque, you need a larger difference between sprockets. Increasing the front sprocket is the same as reducing the rear sprocket, which gives you lower rpm for the same speed.
bro i have honda cg125..i installed rear lil big tyre and modify with suzuki gs150 shock with front disk...so dafinatly its dry weight got heavy as per normal...so what u suggest me do change front sprocket or rear.??? or both and which size
There is way more to it. Tire size, what type pinch power in the rpm, is it hobb done, so weight, so much more goes into it... It's not just go up and down unless your a nub.
If I have a GS750E big bore which makes it a 816cc stock is geared at 14/43 and I want the best top speed but still be able to accelerate at smooth and reasonable time. Can I increase both sprockets up to 17/47? Or does that just cancel each other? With 112 links and 530 chain.
Any way to calculate what gearing the bike will support based on horsepower? my sr125 has 14/49 gearing and 12 hp. Wondering what the highest gearing I could get is. Highest iv seen availible is 16/46 is that workable?
just fyi...If your sprocket is like mine, there is a "C" and a number after that.... that is NOT the tooth number like the video says... that is the number the manufacturer stamps on it to give the strength of the steel....
I think my ninja 250 1994 with 25 inch wheels and a 6 speed manual gearbox that starts redlining at 14k and stops at 16k would go alright with a 36 tooth rear if I could fit it
Awesome simple direct video. I'm trying to set up an electric motor to turn my snowblower chute. There's a huge wide toothed sprocket on the chute, I know now where to begin figuring out a proper drive sprocket for my motor so it's not too slow or fast! I know my motor's rpm, I'll count the teeth on the big sprocket and do some math v to figure out my rotation speed. Thank you!
The summary for what sprocket you might want to change to achieve different aspects of rpm power and speed --Front sprokect change bigger faster less rpm smaller slower more rpm bigger less power smaller more power --Rear sprocket change bigger slower more rpm smaller faster less rpm bigger more power smaller less power I recommend changing rear sprockets changing the front can put extra stress on the case drive gear bearing.
Hey, can i ask? So, i got 250, max speed 160,but i want to cruise at 120-130, but RPM too high...8-9k is too much... So, Q: sprockets, can i lower rpm ny changing gearing with sprocket? (What do i do, bigger or smaller rear)
If increasing the numbers of teeth at rear end sprocket by 3 Teeth from the stock rear sprocket..do I have to change the chain as a whole or do I need to get a new chain with more linkage?
i think you are mistaken there . is it possible to make bigger sprocket and get more apm or speed ? i think it is the opposite . my question is why in new bike they change the small sprocket to bigger one ?
im looking at getting a honda cbr250 rally and im pretty sure its got a 14 tooth sproket on the front and in top gear it sits half way in the revs and id like to lower its top revs in that gear if i was to get one but i dont want to sacrifice get up and go power too much
You got it misleading man. Low gearing means that you got less rpm with the same speed of that stock gearing. Ex. At 100kph on stock gearing u may got 5000rpm but if u decrease gearing, on 100kph i assure you its lower 5000rpms
Wrong... lower gearing = higher revs for the same speed. If you’re doing 100kph in 5th gear at 5000 rpm. Then go to 4th gear which is lower your revs will go to say 5600rpm to stay at 100kph. Then go to 3rd gear and revs will be higher again... so lower gear = more rpm for a given speed
Am very bad at doing math, now tell me my duke 200 needs 0 - 100 as quick as possible , stock one is 14 front , 42 rear .. so whats the best set up do u suggest . Peace ✌
Parmeet Lambs What are you hoping to achieve more speed and longevity or more power just drop one or two in the rear if your looking to go a little faster a little farther with less revolutions of engine...
Yes if you go bigger rear sprocket to gain torque like I want to do for my DRZ 400 then you probably have to buy a knew chain. If your chain adjustment is already more than half. Is this correct? Thanks
MX Tex I'd love to, but unfortunately suspension is a black art to me also! Hey MrDuhfactor , can you make a really basic suspension video on what compression, rebound and springs do and what to adjust for certain bike behaviour?
Cheers Mia Nerb, good video and very informational. Do you and the other moto vloggers have any plans for coming back down to tassie ( my part of the world ) think you really should, but do more stuff in hobart, like the mountain and other stuffs, cheers mate.
Thankful that you made a vid on this subject 🤗 ride safe always sir although this was made year ago it is still helpfull and informative up to this date...
Just a quick question. How does the 1190 Adventure get it's speed and distance info?Via a gearbox sensor or the rear ABS sensor? I pose the question because if it's via the gearbox then a change in gearing will affect the accuracy of the speedo/distance recorder. So not only do the revs change for a TRUE 100 kph, but the speedo won't be showing a TRUE 100 kph. I hope I've explained what I merely clearly?
Hi Nerb1, great vids, enjoying them very much. Quick question, I have a 1190 non R and I need to change chain and sprockets. From your experience would you go unchanged 17/42 or for 16/42 or 17/45, I would like a bit more revs at low speed. Or is it not worth the hassle, thanks!
17/45 for sure. Ive had no loss in fuel economy and its a little nicer at low speed. It actually feels better at highway speed also. 16/42 is almost the same ratio, but wears the chain a bit faster.
Initial calculations are correct but later he is trying by guessing. Here is how to calculate and not guess and try: if you want to reduce rpm by 500 and keep the same speed you need to reduce rear sprocket teeth. 3500/4000 = 0.875
Then 42 teeth sprocket should be reduced to: 42x0.875 = 36.75 rounding it up to 37 teeth.
Thank you.
After so many years, this has to be the clearest, most useful video on the subject. I had no trouble following your train of thought. Thank you for making this video! It helped me a lot.
You forget t mention what happens to the torque, whis is important when you hit a slope.
If you reduce the teeth on the rear sprocket by too much you will need to gear down more often.
The magic is a combination of speed n power which the manufacturer has figured works best.
And on the CBR, YOU WILL mess your speedo n odo.....so?
Please cover these issues.
At the end of the day it all boils down to your personal preferences.
include rim size as well while calculating the change. e,g if one is shifting from 18nich to 17 for supermoto
gearingcommander.com is the site to go, and if you ride slow, gear low, if you ride fast, gear high
it is the best site !
Gearingcommander.com is a hugely useful tool. Probably more useful if you understand this stuff, but it does the maths for you. And has a ton of info pre loaded on virtually any bike you could think of
Bloody slack! Math is good for you... stop cheating.
PS, there are about 30 comments all pointing out the same thing ;)
red line in 6th on the longest straight #livetoride
Cool bro
You also need to consider chain tension if you don't want to shorten or purchase a new chain. If you want drastic changes adjust both in the opposite direction. If your looking to increase rpm and gain torque decrease teeth in front and or increase teeth in the back; this decreases top speed. Larger sprocket in the front and or smaller in the rear and you increase top speed but lose torque. See if you can find dyno numbers on your bike and adjust the sprockets to the max torque and horsepower for the rpm range you ride in most. Example - Honda grom: I'm 300 lbs and needed torque and higher rpms, so I dropped one tooth in the front. This allowed me to get up hills and max out the rpms. I may have lost a couple mph of top speed but take off and hill climbing improved drastically. Most likely why the newer models went to a five speed. Front sprockets are cheaper and I would suggest adjusting by one tooth only. If you speed reads off wheel speed your fine otherwise you will need a tune for correct speeds. Check with gps to confirm.
This is full bs, you didn't mention in the end when you wanted to drop 500rpm, that if you wan't to calculate the front sprocket, you can't calculate the numbers in the same way you calculate the rear sprocket. If you wan't to find the 0,875 ratio in the front and wan't to drop 500rpm, you can't calculate it like 14 (14,875)/17 = 0,875!! Because the smaller front sprocket will give you more rpms! Why didn't you show this in the video? You can't always put the smaller number and dive it by the bigger in here. If you wan't to gain 500 rpm in rear, calculate 42*1,125. If you wan't to lose 500rpm in rear --> 42*0,875. If you wan't to gain 500rpm in front calculate 17*0,875 and to lose 17*1,125. Why not explain this!!?
Very well explanation thanx mate and i think this also increases milage of your bike on highway as you are on low rpm compare to stock. actually this makes ratio taller and i personally like taller gear ratio cuz i ride on highways it makes your bike smooth like butter on high speed cruising
Do not throw your money away changing the sockets. This will only make 2 results:
1. this will improve starting off (launching)
2. this will increase your RPM in top gear at highway speeds.
Changing the sprockets is changing the final gearing on your cycle. Changing the final gearing means nothing. What really matters is overall gearing. Overall gearing is everything from the engine to the rear tire.
Overall gearing is a affected by these areas:
1. Manual Transmission
2. Drive sprockets (final gearing)
3. Tire size (actually have to change rim diameter to change tire size much)
It is a very common misunderstanding that changing the sprockets will mean you'll always have lower gearing. That is not true. You have a manual transmission. That allows you to have what ever gear ratio you want. If you like the power of low gearing then don't shift until redline for all I care. Shifting at redline is not what you really want unless you are drag racing. My point is you can decide how high you want your RPM to go before shifting.
If you like low RPM for fuel efficiency shift early and keep your RPMs low.
Once you get in top gear you can't shift up any more. That's why I say changing the sprockets will affect the RPM on the highway.
42/17=2.47 .... change the front for more acceleration so say a 16 , 42/16=2.63 .....263-247=16 ....263/16= irony 16% so changing a tooth on the front down gives you 16% more excelleration. Sod top end , getting theres the fun bit .
Hey one small doubt if my 150 cc bike have 13000 rpm can i move to 36 teeth ?
It would have been easier for some pple to understand low end torquc n high end torque
you doing all that math really confused the video
Damn i wish i hadn't smoked too much before math class
Well, i got Hornet 900 and i HATE that it screams in 6th at 100kmh -_- Basicly no difference between 5th and 6th, such an oversight if u ask me, you buy a CBR if u wanna race, and buy CB if you want to commute and cruise, i really dont get why its geared that way. I think the bike will force me to put much less teeth, or sell it and buy another bike that has a long fucking 6th gear. Great tutorial btw, i finnaly get it, i was allways forgetting what does what xd
I'm dyslexic, and this was too many numbers for me to comprehend. So short and simple, changing my front sprocket is not an option in my case. However I'm upgrading my entire rear tire/ rim from spoke to mag rim. (Primarily because I keep bending the spoke rims) This forces me to change some mounting adapters, currently I have 42T on the rear large sprocket, Some of the longer steeper hills I can hear and feel the bike struggle to climb. But on flat straight road I'm averaging 22 mph at full throttle.
So my dilemma is it wouldn't hurt to have more hill climbing power, but I'm riding on highway roads and can't afford to lose speed. I need to keep up with the slow lane traffic. Most the slow traffic is at least 35 mph.
the adapter for the mag rim I'm looking at online is set up with a 36T sprocket. How will the difference between the 42T and the 36T help or hurt me?
I am very limited what I can change. This is a bicycle with a 2 cycle motor on it. So I know I'm not any where near what a normal motorcycle has for engine ability.
Answered by email. Good luck champ.
My brain failed at 5:34
LOL LOL LOL, I was lost at the introduction ! Lol
Congrats on your 5+min . Lol
I watched it 4 times but I've finally worked out I need a 43t!
Once you find what new sprockets you want, how do you find the correct chain specs?
Quick maths
What about acceleration?!
bro,what is you brand shock.this is same lenth of stock
So to buy a bag of spuds from Aldi @ £1.80 per kilo would i gain 2 spuds buy paying £1.90 per kilo for welsh spuds?
I have a SWM RS500. The standard hearing is 13/47=3.6153846153846 . At general rule one at the front is equal to 3 at the rear. So my my gearing from the factory is pretty good. I just change the front to get a reasonable gear change. The big problem is the bikes ability to hold the gear load. Also it's easier to change the front sprocket out there on the track.. it's all to do with the stall point of your bike. If you own an old school bike that has plenty crank your bike will carry pretty stupid gear ratios. But unfortunately theses late model bike don't and most developed torqued thru engine management systems. I carry a 13 and 15..
Very informative, thanks alot :)
My honda cbr 125 4th 5th and 6th gear doesn’t touch the Red at all can’t get the revs up could u tell me what to do // Snapchat valkerie1337
Whateveh, mate. Does it matter what size you get or will all combinations work? Do you have to change the chain?
thanks a lot my friend.
I was searching for this stuff since a long time. Thanks for the great help once again.
There's a limit what you can do with changing sprockets. Remember that you still have gears. And each gear has a certain ratio.
If you increase the rear sprocket enough, you'l jjust make the 6th gear essentially a 5th gear.
Yeah a lot of people just sell sell sell, they forget about weight x ring rolls tire size ECT ECT hobb made weight punch it's not just go larger and it will have better horse more tourq. Case the guy with a life chain nicer roll less friction and less weight along with proper hobb and tire size you might just get burnt.
If increasing the numbers of teeth at rear end sprocket by 3 Teeth from the stock rear sprocket..do I have to change the chain as a whole or do I need to get a new chain with more linkage?
great video thank you...
i do have a question...
if i keep the same rear sprocket and i increase 1 t in the front i can have more torque exiting from corners right? my engine will produce a little more torque and higher rpm.
No. If you want more torque, you need a larger difference between sprockets. Increasing the front sprocket is the same as reducing the rear sprocket, which gives you lower rpm for the same speed.
Any recommendations for my gn125 has 14/42 running at 7.5k at 100kph looking to get 6.5-7rpm
does the sprocket diameter matter, my motorcycle does not say anything about diameter, just says standard 520 15t/40t
bro i have honda cg125..i installed rear lil big tyre and modify with suzuki gs150 shock with front disk...so dafinatly its dry weight got heavy as per normal...so what u suggest me do change front sprocket or rear.??? or both and which size
There is way more to it. Tire size, what type pinch power in the rpm, is it hobb done, so weight, so much more goes into it... It's not just go up and down unless your a nub.
If I have a GS750E big bore which makes it a 816cc stock is geared at 14/43 and I want the best top speed but still be able to accelerate at smooth and reasonable time. Can I increase both sprockets up to 17/47? Or does that just cancel each other? With 112 links and 530 chain.
Any way to calculate what gearing the bike will support based on horsepower?
my sr125 has 14/49 gearing and 12 hp. Wondering what the highest gearing I could get is. Highest iv seen availible is 16/46 is that workable?
How about pulsar rs200/bajaj. I want more top speed,less acceleration. Change front sprocket or rear? Any recommendations?
just fyi...If your sprocket is like mine, there is a "C" and a number after that.... that is NOT the tooth number like the video says... that is the number the manufacturer stamps on it to give the strength of the steel....
hey bud good tutorial, save everyone including yourself a bunch of time and multiple 42*.875 will give you exact numbers without guessing
Thanks man was having a hard time with this but now I've got it thanks again 🤘
I think my ninja 250 1994 with 25 inch wheels and a 6 speed manual gearbox that starts redlining at 14k and stops at 16k would go alright with a 36 tooth rear if I could fit it
Hi, i have 150cc motorcycle and i want to put on the back 34 teeth how many teeth for the front pls help me....
Plz show your calculations on the paper. It will be easier for us to understand.
how do i determine the chain length to buy if i am changing the sprocket size?
Awesome simple direct video. I'm trying to set up an electric motor to turn my snowblower chute. There's a huge wide toothed sprocket on the chute, I know now where to begin figuring out a proper drive sprocket for my motor so it's not too slow or fast! I know my motor's rpm, I'll count the teeth on the big sprocket and do some math v to figure out my rotation speed. Thank you!
The summary for what sprocket you might want to change to achieve different aspects of rpm power and speed
--Front sprokect change
bigger faster less rpm
smaller slower more rpm
bigger less power
smaller more power
--Rear sprocket change
bigger slower more rpm
smaller faster less rpm
bigger more power
smaller less power
I recommend changing rear sprockets changing the front can put extra stress on the case drive gear bearing.
plz upload spokert desing and formula with calculation video
Niiiiiiiiiiice 1 matey
Very Good job , Mate .........Thank you .👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hey, can i ask?
So, i got 250, max speed 160,but i want to cruise at 120-130, but RPM too high...8-9k is too much...
So, Q: sprockets, can i lower rpm ny changing gearing with sprocket? (What do i do, bigger or smaller rear)
PRUIKKI RACING smaller rear
can i use different chainsopket for fz250???..
If increasing the numbers of teeth at rear end sprocket by 3 Teeth from the stock rear sprocket..do I have to change the chain as a whole or do I need to get a new chain with more linkage?
or use gearingcommander
Tryna gear my pitbike (supermoto conversion project). And I can’t thank you enough bro big thanks
How many teeth can you decrease or increase to the maximum before it's not effective?
i think you are mistaken there .
is it possible to make bigger sprocket and get more apm or speed ?
i think it is the opposite .
my question is why in new bike they change the small sprocket to bigger one ?
Hmm... it was easy! Thanks man! Know how works better than i think i know how...:D
Hey nerb Is there a formula to figure out how many links you need to take out if any on the big drop in teeth? if that makes sense at all
I have a 14 65 on my 50cc derbi is it ok? I only use it in the woods
im looking at getting a honda cbr250 rally and im pretty sure its got a 14 tooth sproket on the front and in top gear it sits half way in the revs and id like to lower its top revs in that gear if i was to get one but i dont want to sacrifice get up and go power too much
For r1 2012 is it okay for 17/42? I want more speed!
most bike companys print the number of teeth right on the side of the sprocket, no need to count.
You got it misleading man. Low gearing means that you got less rpm with the same speed of that stock gearing. Ex. At 100kph on stock gearing u may got 5000rpm but if u decrease gearing, on 100kph i assure you its lower 5000rpms
Wrong... lower gearing = higher revs for the same speed. If you’re doing 100kph in 5th gear at 5000 rpm. Then go to 4th gear which is lower your revs will go to say 5600rpm to stay at 100kph. Then go to 3rd gear and revs will be higher again... so lower gear = more rpm for a given speed
For 125cc what best sprocket ??
The number of teeth are written on the sprocket
Great info! Gona go one teeth down on front sprocket. thanks!
how many links for 15t front and 45t rear ?
Great video Nerb. Thank you
i want more powerful pickup in my 200 ns so which is the best ratio for front and rear plz reply
Akash Limbu chongbang Add a few in the rear you'll gain take off but you will lose a little top speed
Good vid mate, made it easy for the masses to figure out what is what when it comes to gearing :-)
there is a website for this, gearingcommander.com
Konnichiwa nerbson, what gearing did u end up settling on with the 1190?
I find standard a wee bit tall off the line/at the lights and off road.
I was just running 1 tooth down on the front.
You are rght but I didn’t get your point of view
Am very bad at doing math, now tell me my duke 200 needs 0 - 100 as quick as possible , stock one is 14 front , 42 rear .. so whats the best set up do u suggest . Peace ✌
Hints, Duke390,250rear sprockets.
Would that fix somehow the speedo overreading?
Orange Clockwork no because the speedometer is measured off os the front wheel as it turns, you changing nothing with the front wheel.
16% speed up not bad.. Superb
One of the easiest explainations Ive seen well done thanks for taking the time to do this 👍😊
Very interesting video man. Thanks for uploading this.
Wow Awesome video very informative and basic
good information guys
Hi mate I'm planning to buy 1 down in F and 2up in R for my zx6r will it effect my engine life thanks
Parmeet Lambs What are you hoping to achieve more speed and longevity or more power just drop one or two in the rear if your looking to go a little faster a little farther with less revolutions of engine...
i have pulsar ns200 for increasing top speed which combination its better
King Of Heartz Drop a few in the rear for more speed
Yes if you go bigger rear sprocket to gain torque like I want to do for my DRZ 400 then you probably have to buy a knew chain. If your chain adjustment is already more than half. Is this correct? Thanks
If u change the rear sprocket you're gonna have to adjust the speedo
not if my speed sensor is on the front wheel lol
Thanks. there are lot of videos changing chain. this is good
Very well explained. Can you explain suspension like that? Both of these things are like a "black art" as they say
MX Tex I'd love to, but unfortunately suspension is a black art to me also! Hey MrDuhfactor , can you make a really basic suspension video on what compression, rebound and springs do and what to adjust for certain bike behaviour?
Cheers Mia Nerb, good video and very informational. Do you and the other moto vloggers have any plans for coming back down to tassie ( my part of the world ) think you really should, but do more stuff in hobart, like the mountain and other stuffs, cheers mate.
Yes MessyOg . We loved it down there and we want to go back to do some more. It will probably be in summer. Maybe after Christmas?
Yeah man that would be sick, this time next year I'll come for a ride with you guys, as I get my license this time next year, SICK!!
did this ever end up happening?
Superb!!! Thanks for taking the time to do this!!!
man honda cbr 600cc 70 th good
Thankful that you made a vid on this subject 🤗 ride safe always sir although this was made year ago it is still helpfull and informative up to this date...
Great job mate. Loved your ending. Classic.
You guys are giving me a headache:-)
Just a quick question. How does the 1190 Adventure get it's speed and distance info?Via a gearbox sensor or the rear ABS sensor? I pose the question because if it's via the gearbox then a change in gearing will affect the accuracy of the speedo/distance recorder. So not only do the revs change for a TRUE 100 kph, but the speedo won't be showing a TRUE 100 kph. I hope I've explained what I merely clearly?
+David Jebson (thebiglad) It uses the front wheel abs sensor, so no problem messing with the gearing.
+Nerb1 Thanks for that.
engine will blowing off..
Hi Nerb1, great vids, enjoying them very much. Quick question, I have a 1190 non R and I need to change chain and sprockets. From your experience would you go unchanged 17/42 or for 16/42 or 17/45, I would like a bit more revs at low speed. Or is it not worth the hassle, thanks!
17/45 for sure. Ive had no loss in fuel economy and its a little nicer at low speed. It actually feels better at highway speed also. 16/42 is almost the same ratio, but wears the chain a bit faster.
Thanks Mate, I'll go for that. My local KTM dealer actually recommended 16/42 but most 1190 users said like you.
Very well detailed & explained nerb mate.
Thanks for this video
Always good seeing math used on real life applications , good vid mate !
42*0,875
very helpful, thanks for the info