The back panel for the amp is made from 1/8" thick aluminum and I engraved the labels in it with my CNC using a V groove bit. The engraving was then filled with black paint and I sanded off the excess after that dried. That method works great if the font is big enough. You might keenly observe that I added more labels to the back plate - I forgot to mark the outputs for the individual speaker drivers (woofer, tweeter, etc.) the first time. The case I'm working with is one I partly build 15 years ago and I show that in this video: ruclips.net/video/Qe9H07JlT6w/видео.html The rest of the video concentrates on getting the power supply parts prepped and installed. There are four power distribution boards that sit at the bottom of the heatsinks on the sides that feed the power amp boards that mount on the heatsinks directly above. This keeps the wiring somewhat tidy and the leads short. The two dividers that run down the middle of the case partition off the centre area where the transformers are. These dividers add a lot of structural stiffness to the bottom panel and also provide space on top to mount the power supply PCBs. It's worth pointing out for anyone who hasn't done this kind of thing that this 10 minute video represents hours and hours of work. None of this is as easy or fast as I'm making it look, and even a small thing like not being able to remember where I put a particular part than needs to go in next sets you back orders of magnitude longer than this video. A lot of planning and off camera work went into this, on top of the work I did 15 years ago to build the case to begin with. If you are thinking of this as a way to save money instead of buying a ready made unit, you are missing the point entirely. For me designing and building this amp is entertainment of the challenging sort. Much like training, preparing and gearing up to climb mountains is for someone else, or rebuilding a project car from the ground up. Sure I'll have an awesome piece of hand-built equipment after I'm done, but it's the experience of doing it that I value the most.
Ahhh.... when you solder, insulate and route the wires yourself and you make it as nice and neat as you want... it's super satisfying even seeing someone else do it! I'd be as weird as leaving the cap off for a while so I could look at it every time I walked by, hahaha
Not tinning your leads before soldering! HERESY! 🙂 Spectacularly good build. Thank you for sharing. I've spent years fixing old amplifiers, specifically McIntosh, Carver, and Marantz. I always wanted to give a go at building my own Class AB. Built a couple around Class D modules (Icepower mostly), but that didn't involve PC boards and soldering components to them.
I really enjoyed this John. I find the pace and methodical way that you go about this build incredibly relaxing. This is inspiring for me as I continue to plan out my amplifier. Wonderful work and I am looking forward to the next video.
Thanks Paul :) In the past I've rushed through some projects eager to get them done before I got sick of working on them. I think that leads to the burnout I feel after a big project, so maybe slowing it down and being more deliberate will help to keep that from happening.
Oooohh..thats a beauty... (envious) xD I whish, i had the time to build my own amps, like i did, when i was younger.. So many things changed the last 20 years.. Thats awsome, John..
Could not your CNC router interpolate holes of any size? Could you not mill the "windows" out with this machine? It seems to me that these operations could all be done in one set up, but I just think that because I worked as a machinist for 50 years, so you know, a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing... Not trying to be a jerk (I don't have to try TBH) but if its got a numerical controller, it should interpolate and have perhaps have a function where you pick a shape and input the dimensions and locations.
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The back panel for the amp is made from 1/8" thick aluminum and I engraved the labels in it with my CNC using a V groove bit. The engraving was then filled with black paint and I sanded off the excess after that dried. That method works great if the font is big enough.
You might keenly observe that I added more labels to the back plate - I forgot to mark the outputs for the individual speaker drivers (woofer, tweeter, etc.) the first time.
The case I'm working with is one I partly build 15 years ago and I show that in this video:
ruclips.net/video/Qe9H07JlT6w/видео.html
The rest of the video concentrates on getting the power supply parts prepped and installed. There are four power distribution boards that sit at the bottom of the heatsinks on the sides that feed the power amp boards that mount on the heatsinks directly above. This keeps the wiring somewhat tidy and the leads short.
The two dividers that run down the middle of the case partition off the centre area where the transformers are. These dividers add a lot of structural stiffness to the bottom panel and also provide space on top to mount the power supply PCBs.
It's worth pointing out for anyone who hasn't done this kind of thing that this 10 minute video represents hours and hours of work. None of this is as easy or fast as I'm making it look, and even a small thing like not being able to remember where I put a particular part than needs to go in next sets you back orders of magnitude longer than this video.
A lot of planning and off camera work went into this, on top of the work I did 15 years ago to build the case to begin with. If you are thinking of this as a way to save money instead of buying a ready made unit, you are missing the point entirely. For me designing and building this amp is entertainment of the challenging sort. Much like training, preparing and gearing up to climb mountains is for someone else, or rebuilding a project car from the ground up. Sure I'll have an awesome piece of hand-built equipment after I'm done, but it's the experience of doing it that I value the most.
Patient, meticulous work. Patience is a virtue. Good job!
Ahhh.... when you solder, insulate and route the wires yourself and you make it as nice and neat as you want... it's super satisfying even seeing someone else do it!
I'd be as weird as leaving the cap off for a while so I could look at it every time I walked by, hahaha
Honestly impressive. I look forward to seeing the finished product.
The attention to detail is commendable!
Not tinning your leads before soldering! HERESY! 🙂 Spectacularly good build. Thank you for sharing. I've spent years fixing old amplifiers, specifically McIntosh, Carver, and Marantz. I always wanted to give a go at building my own Class AB. Built a couple around Class D modules (Icepower mostly), but that didn't involve PC boards and soldering components to them.
I hope you do more of these videos John.
Thanks, there are more on the way.
This amp is EPIC! If you ever want to fill smaller letters, you can use a Markal stick and take the excess off with a credit card. Works like a charm!
I really enjoyed this John. I find the pace and methodical way that you go about this build incredibly relaxing. This is inspiring for me as I continue to plan out my amplifier. Wonderful work and I am looking forward to the next video.
Thanks Paul :)
In the past I've rushed through some projects eager to get them done before I got sick of working on them. I think that leads to the burnout I feel after a big project, so maybe slowing it down and being more deliberate will help to keep that from happening.
Oooohh..thats a beauty... (envious) xD I whish, i had the time to build my own amps, like i did, when i was younger.. So many things changed the last 20 years.. Thats awsome, John..
This thing is gonna be an animal.
DIY hi-fi assembly ASMR (c)
Good job!!
John it never fails with u... Are u taking orders yet... I want one.... Keep it up brother
Very cool 👍
Less talky more worky John!
Great work! How did you finish the aluminium surface? What kind of sander and sealer?
I show that in more detail in my other amplifier build: ruclips.net/video/UKhRA_GcmPI/видео.html
@@IBuildIt Thanks. M
👍👍👍👍
Could not your CNC router interpolate holes of any size?
Could you not mill the "windows" out with this machine?
It seems to me that these operations could all be done in one set up, but I just think that because I worked as a machinist for 50 years, so you know, a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing...
Not trying to be a jerk (I don't have to try TBH) but if its got a numerical controller, it should interpolate and have perhaps have a function where you pick a shape and input the dimensions and locations.