4:55 - This is essentially my comment under many 3D printing videos. TPU has other advantages that the industry has largely ignored in the focus on it being flexible. It's excellent in UV resistance, chemical resistance, abrasion resistance and layer adhesion (giving it far more isotropic properties when 3D printed). We need higher durometer structural TPU filament that prints faster. Thanks for the TPU test. Hopefully more people will 3D print with TPU.
This kind of study would be really intriguing if done with the foaming tpu. I believe it is made by either colorfab or esun. Its simular to their light weight foaming pla. Anyways it adds a whole additional dimention as the temperature changes the parts stiff ness as it is effectively changing the infill of the line being extuded. Therefor you can change the infill of the part and the material being extruded.
I use a lot of TPU for fixtures at work for a many of the same reasons mentioned. I have some fixtures that need a ridged base but a softer upper portion. I can print the lower portion with a very high infill and add an infill modifier block to change the upper portion to a lower infill density.
I own a small business and our 3D printed parts are TPU. I tried an experiment to see if 3D printed parts could be tumble polished. Almost everything can. Stainless pins for 24 hours did essentially nothing. Some sort of sharp ceramic tumbling media might eventually abrade it, but I have doubts. Impact resistance AND abrasion resistance are off the charts. I love 3D printing TPU. We need higher durometer TPU that prints faster.
@@Liberty4Ever Ninjatek armadillo is awesome, it's 75d shore but, has to print even slower than the 95a stuff and costs almost $100 a kg. If you have an enclosed printer you can print it fast but, it's a little finicky to get good settings.
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 - We use 85A NinjaFlex for one product and it's very good. I tried a much less expensive 85A from Siraya Tech recently. The filament felt the same. The printed part felt the same to my engineer's calibrated finger squish test, but the part wouldn't stretch over the steel piece it needs to cover. Currently testing eSun's 83A to see if it can replace NinjaFlex.
@Liberty4Ever so I usually print my tpu at 50mm/s and have had no issues. Only actual problem I've had is a jam in my direct drive but I changed the tension and haven't had a problem since.
I'd be interested in seeing the parts turned 90 degrees so you're crushing them in the print orientation. This would more accurately reflect one of your examples: shoe soles. It would also be interesting to compare the difference between horizontal and vertical orientations for your charts for various infill types. I suspect gyroid would be the closest in both orientations and possibly the softest, while cubic should be slightly stiffer while also consistent. Many of the others will likely have a significant difference between the two orientations.
I love TPU, it is probably my favorite material to print with. I would be thrilled if you did an abrasion comparison between PLA, PETG, TPU, ASA and maybe some CFs. There are many strength tests out there but what about things that have long term friction on the part?
All of our current 3D printed parts are made from TPU. I recently tested TPU 3D printed parts by tumbling them for a day with stainless pins. This will polish any metal and grind away most plastics. There were no visible changes to the TPU parts. TPU is very resilient and abrasion resistant.
I recently tested TPU 3D printed parts by tumbling them for a day with stainless pins. This will polish any metal and grind away most plastics. No visible changes to the TPU parts.
Sweet video. Plays into what I'm playing with. I'm printing airless soccer balls based on that basketball. I'm printing in tpu but I'm going to try to play with the infil to get a more familiar stiffness or bounce.
The 100% example looks like it has under extrusion. I print many functional parts with TPU. It works well for automotive parts like door bumpers and body seals. It holds up well outdoors and in sunlight.
I bought a 1996 Hijet Japanese mini truck a year ago. I 3D printed a lot of parts for it and all are TPU - door lock pulls, cup holder, phone holder, bed side end caps, tailgate bumpers, battery cover, and most recently, custom mud flaps that say "MEEP!" 🙂 TPU is awesome.
It looks like the wall thicknesses might have been slightly lower on the lower infill parts? I 3D print a lot of TPU parts for my small business and wall thickness is very important in determining TPU flexibility.
Great video and i totally agree, Tpu is so underrated. How does tpu and pla work together? Tpu shell pla infill? Pet and tpu? Abs and pla. Your rig can test so many combinations.
I've used it to make carburator bowl gaskets and a petcock gasket and they've been working fine for years. I don't know if anyone on RUclips has done a video on showing how different filament reacts to different checmicals, like gasoline, acetone, or oils.
3d printing compliant mechanisms (gripper claw, Nerf gun, etc) in different materials and seeing how that affects the performance (grip strength, distance the dart is launched) would be cool to see.
So a springy material behaves like a spring? I guess I'd like to see how the spring constant deviates from theory as a percent of infill changes. Any mechanical engineers out there?
Good Idea. The spring constant would basically converge toward the solid material estimation as infill increases and the material properties become the dominant effect over the structural properties
@@slant3d Buckling of the infill makes this a much harder problem. Might be some equations for foams that would apply. Might also help to avoid buckling by using an infill that's all curved walls, I.e. Gyroid.
@@martylawson1638 First of all, I'm a PHD Chem E by education so this is not my strong suit. But, with low percentages of infill, it seems like the basic model might be to assume that the bars are rigid, and the model consider how the density of joints varies with infill. And how does that density of joints affect the spring constant.
I would like to see how the infill pattern affects strength and deformation pattern. Here the grid infill clearly pulls walls, I wonder how triangles, hexagona or gyroid would act?
What about the TPU that changes sure rating with different nozzle temp (infill stays the same)? I think cnc kitchen did a video on it. Curious if that is feasible to use with mass 3d printing
a stiffer variant of tpu would be great. better load bearing at lower infill and better printing with less issues (more forgiving about the extruder design). the layer bonding is incredible. a mixing nozzle on the printer would allow combining tpu and pla into whichever shore value you like with smooth transitions between them.
Nylon is used in automotive parts exactly for just that. It's just not as flexible but can stretch if thin enough, like when it's used in clothing for elasticity
It's hard to find, but I've seen two filaments that are "max hardness" TPU. Taulman PCTPE and Ninjaflex Armadillo. They're 1/2 to 1/4 as stiff as PETG, but still have massive elasticity. They're the sweat spot for 3D printed parts that need to be indestructible and stiff.
@@martylawson1638 oh yeah i remember pctpe being the recommend material for racewhoops i might try that on something, a little expensive, though i also have a roll of PP which has great layer bonding, too
@@marc_frank You can find armadillo for around $30 a half kg if you look around for who's cheapest. I've printed plents of drone and rc car parts that need to be stiff and it's amazing stuff, basically indestructible.
Yea I thought TPU was a meme untill I actually tried it myself. 100% infill is insanely strong and 95a is rigid enough for most things at that infill. Used it to make a bunch of those little plastic pegged shelf holder things that break all the time. couldnt even hurt one with a hammer lol.
I have a question about TPU. I know it's very hard to print on a Bowden based 3D printer because of the flexibility of the filament. now my question is would temperature ( making colder for example before the actual printhead ) have a influence on the flexability so the Bowden and push it up the tube to the printhead and making it possible to print or get better results because it's more stiff before the printhead does it's thing.?
will you be testing different materials for material creap? plastic deformation resistance to long term static pressure, because stuff can be stiff or tough or soft and forgiving but sometimes that is for nothing because you need constant dimensions and repeatability
It's hard to find, but I've seen two filaments that are "max hardness" TPU. Taulman PCTPE and Ninjaflex Armadillo. They're 1/2 to 1/4 as stiff as PETG, but still have massive elasticity. They're the sweat spot for 3D printed parts that need to be indestructible and stiff.
I have been looking for stiffer TPU for a while. Haven’t found anyone making it. Is it something you guys would be able to make/blend or is it not that simple. Something between 98a and PETG.
Ninjatek armadillo there's also one from a European company I believe Extrudr but, armadillo is stiffer it's literally a hard plastic with the benefits of tpu, it's like $40 a half kg though. If Slant could make some for like half that price it would be amazing.
I've done it for my Vespa scooter rear shock. Bushing has been in operation for 6 months, still in perfect condition. I'd argue it takes as much weight as your truck shocks would, given that all my body weight (240 lbs) is directly above the shock.
Can one show as a summary what all mechanical things can be printed on a 3d printer: Springs (as shock absorbers but also as a wind up mechanism), gears, bearings (almost), wheels, insulation (that piston with a bottle), propellers , this with different filling patterns to obtain different material properties (rigidity, elasticity)...
It would be interesting to stick to 10% infill, but vary infill wall thickness. Alternatively testing a round exterior part to see if holds up better than the cube. (eg: ⭕cylinder on side, with slightly flat top/bottom to keep from rolling if needed) Such variation in stiffness can enable designing where and how a part deforms. For example could vary outer wall thickness so the part compresses like an accordion. ie: design in natural crease features. Any variation in thickness could be hidden internal on inner surface to make it seem like magic, or a smart part. Additionally, designing the interior of part to become more resistive to higher loads as compresses can control the amount of distortion. But this is challenging to do without CAD software like Solidworks to visualize internal stress in a part. It could be interesting to evaluate infill patterns, to understand high stress regions. For example the diagonal collapsing with 45º infill quickly propagates along an infill boundary. However, such simulation features are typically premium CAD options. Even though out of price range of many, it might be worth considering such CAD software as part of a testing series, for making visual aids, or animations.
Love TPU other than ABS it's the only thing I use, printed plenty of indestructible drone parts. Also there is a hard tpu from Ninjatek called armadillo that's 75D but, it's like $40 for 0.5kg and honestly worth every penny when you need it, only downside it has to print slow and hot with minimal or no fan but, when you get the layers to stick well it's just as indestructible as tpu with the stiffness nylon with minimal hygroscopic effect. If someone made it cheaper I'd be all over it, maybe even a middle option between 95a and 75d to print faster and maintain a little more flex.
I'm watching this just as I started 4 tpu feet for a print.... guess what forgot to check walla and infill.... let's see how 4 walls and 15% turn out 😂
My only problem with TPU is that printing is molasses slow. Even with a direct extruder. My 3d printer is in a home environment and despite the fact that all protections have been activated and tested (thermal runaway, min temp etc) I cannot leave my 3d printer run unattended (even with webcam) because I'm afraid I've made small prints with TPU that take up to 5 hrs but this is it
If you reduce friction on the spool, you can get some speed increases. I can hit 40 to 50 mm/s on some pretty flexible stuff. Depending on what you are printing, it’s pretty decent. I made a custom filament holder for my enclosure that uses skateboard bearings and I have it going to a pretty loose extruder on a Prusa Mk3S+ with a standard revo .6 mm nozzle.
@@MattRhone My spool holder also has bearings, and the direct extruder has a very short path from the intake to the hotend. I need to make a Voron 2.4 to see some real speed
4:55 - This is essentially my comment under many 3D printing videos. TPU has other advantages that the industry has largely ignored in the focus on it being flexible. It's excellent in UV resistance, chemical resistance, abrasion resistance and layer adhesion (giving it far more isotropic properties when 3D printed). We need higher durometer structural TPU filament that prints faster. Thanks for the TPU test. Hopefully more people will 3D print with TPU.
Very True
This kind of study would be really intriguing if done with the foaming tpu. I believe it is made by either colorfab or esun. Its simular to their light weight foaming pla. Anyways it adds a whole additional dimention as the temperature changes the parts stiff ness as it is effectively changing the infill of the line being extuded. Therefor you can change the infill of the part and the material being extruded.
I use a lot of TPU for fixtures at work for a many of the same reasons mentioned. I have some fixtures that need a ridged base but a softer upper portion. I can print the lower portion with a very high infill and add an infill modifier block to change the upper portion to a lower infill density.
Great example
Infill modifier block. That's the google search keyword I needed. Thanks!
PLA and TPU are my favorite. They both print easily and cleanly.
This stuffs impact resistance is off the charts. You almost cant hurt it.
3D printed TPU is used in BattleBots all the time 😮 not just the small ones either
I own a small business and our 3D printed parts are TPU. I tried an experiment to see if 3D printed parts could be tumble polished. Almost everything can. Stainless pins for 24 hours did essentially nothing. Some sort of sharp ceramic tumbling media might eventually abrade it, but I have doubts. Impact resistance AND abrasion resistance are off the charts. I love 3D printing TPU. We need higher durometer TPU that prints faster.
@@Liberty4Ever Ninjatek armadillo is awesome, it's 75d shore but, has to print even slower than the 95a stuff and costs almost $100 a kg. If you have an enclosed printer you can print it fast but, it's a little finicky to get good settings.
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 - We use 85A NinjaFlex for one product and it's very good. I tried a much less expensive 85A from Siraya Tech recently. The filament felt the same. The printed part felt the same to my engineer's calibrated finger squish test, but the part wouldn't stretch over the steel piece it needs to cover. Currently testing eSun's 83A to see if it can replace NinjaFlex.
@Liberty4Ever so I usually print my tpu at 50mm/s and have had no issues. Only actual problem I've had is a jam in my direct drive but I changed the tension and haven't had a problem since.
I'd be interested in seeing the parts turned 90 degrees so you're crushing them in the print orientation. This would more accurately reflect one of your examples: shoe soles.
It would also be interesting to compare the difference between horizontal and vertical orientations for your charts for various infill types. I suspect gyroid would be the closest in both orientations and possibly the softest, while cubic should be slightly stiffer while also consistent. Many of the others will likely have a significant difference between the two orientations.
Immediately distracted by the fact that you look like Mac from it's always sunny haha. Great info, thank you!
Love the prospects of TPU, and TPR
Now pass the 100% infill TPU to the Hydraulic Press Channel and let them do their thing.
Yo, thx for doing this research for me! I’ve been anted to test the viability of printing a custom helmet for myself and this has helped me a lot!
I love TPU, it is probably my favorite material to print with. I would be thrilled if you did an abrasion comparison between PLA, PETG, TPU, ASA and maybe some CFs. There are many strength tests out there but what about things that have long term friction on the part?
All of our current 3D printed parts are made from TPU. I recently tested TPU 3D printed parts by tumbling them for a day with stainless pins. This will polish any metal and grind away most plastics. There were no visible changes to the TPU parts. TPU is very resilient and abrasion resistant.
Tpu is also great for the abrasion resistance. For mechanical parts like gears solid Tpu works great
For gears I use PETG. It is not so hard but stif and resistent.
I recently tested TPU 3D printed parts by tumbling them for a day with stainless pins. This will polish any metal and grind away most plastics. No visible changes to the TPU parts.
Sweet video. Plays into what I'm playing with. I'm printing airless soccer balls based on that basketball. I'm printing in tpu but I'm going to try to play with the infil to get a more familiar stiffness or bounce.
The texture and wall thickness also affects this. Super great video. 🙏🙂❤️
I wonder how I can get my slicer to vary the infill in different areas of a print. I guess it's time to read the manual on multi-material printing. :)
The 100% example looks like it has under extrusion.
I print many functional parts with TPU. It works well for automotive parts like door bumpers and body seals. It holds up well outdoors and in sunlight.
I bought a 1996 Hijet Japanese mini truck a year ago. I 3D printed a lot of parts for it and all are TPU - door lock pulls, cup holder, phone holder, bed side end caps, tailgate bumpers, battery cover, and most recently, custom mud flaps that say "MEEP!" 🙂 TPU is awesome.
Could this stuff be ideal for small bushings?
🤯 OMG! i write on my self too 😂. For jotting down quick notes. I usually use my wrist. Grate analysis 👌
I wonder about diff infill types cubic gyroid etc
It looks like the wall thicknesses might have been slightly lower on the lower infill parts? I 3D print a lot of TPU parts for my small business and wall thickness is very important in determining TPU flexibility.
Great video and i totally agree, Tpu is so underrated. How does tpu and pla work together? Tpu shell pla infill? Pet and tpu? Abs and pla. Your rig can test so many combinations.
I've used it to make carburator bowl gaskets and a petcock gasket and they've been working fine for years. I don't know if anyone on RUclips has done a video on showing how different filament reacts to different checmicals, like gasoline, acetone, or oils.
3d printing compliant mechanisms (gripper claw, Nerf gun, etc) in different materials and seeing how that affects the performance (grip strength, distance the dart is launched) would be cool to see.
So a springy material behaves like a spring? I guess I'd like to see how the spring constant deviates from theory as a percent of infill changes. Any mechanical engineers out there?
Good Idea. The spring constant would basically converge toward the solid material estimation as infill increases and the material properties become the dominant effect over the structural properties
@@slant3d Buckling of the infill makes this a much harder problem. Might be some equations for foams that would apply. Might also help to avoid buckling by using an infill that's all curved walls, I.e. Gyroid.
@@martylawson1638 First of all, I'm a PHD Chem E by education so this is not my strong suit. But, with low percentages of infill, it seems like the basic model might be to assume that the bars are rigid, and the model consider how the density of joints varies with infill. And how does that density of joints affect the spring constant.
There are a few flexible PLA options out there. A comparison would be interesting.
I would like to see how the infill pattern affects strength and deformation pattern. Here the grid infill clearly pulls walls, I wonder how triangles, hexagona or gyroid would act?
What about the TPU that changes sure rating with different nozzle temp (infill stays the same)? I think cnc kitchen did a video on it. Curious if that is feasible to use with mass 3d printing
Never really thought of the possibility of infill density affecting the characteristics of flexible parts this much, but I guess it makes sense
Well you changed the properties of the part (not the material). It would be very interesting to compare different infill types and wall thicknesses.
Thanks again
No problem
What vendor do you recommend for TPu?
a stiffer variant of tpu would be great. better load bearing at lower infill and better printing with less issues (more forgiving about the extruder design). the layer bonding is incredible. a mixing nozzle on the printer would allow combining tpu and pla into whichever shore value you like with smooth transitions between them.
Nylon is used in automotive parts exactly for just that. It's just not as flexible but can stretch if thin enough, like when it's used in clothing for elasticity
It's hard to find, but I've seen two filaments that are "max hardness" TPU. Taulman PCTPE and Ninjaflex Armadillo. They're 1/2 to 1/4 as stiff as PETG, but still have massive elasticity. They're the sweat spot for 3D printed parts that need to be indestructible and stiff.
@@martylawson1638 oh yeah i remember pctpe being the recommend material for racewhoops
i might try that on something, a little expensive, though
i also have a roll of PP which has great layer bonding, too
@@marc_frank You can find armadillo for around $30 a half kg if you look around for who's cheapest. I've printed plents of drone and rc car parts that need to be stiff and it's amazing stuff, basically indestructible.
Do you always write notes on your hand?
What about TPE filaments like Fiberlogy Fiberflex 40D?
Yea I thought TPU was a meme untill I actually tried it myself. 100% infill is insanely strong and 95a is rigid enough for most things at that infill. Used it to make a bunch of those little plastic pegged shelf holder things that break all the time. couldnt even hurt one with a hammer lol.
I have a question about TPU. I know it's very hard to print on a Bowden based 3D printer because of the flexibility
of the filament. now my question is would temperature ( making colder for example before the actual printhead ) have a influence on the flexability so the Bowden and push it up the tube to the printhead and making it possible to print or get better results because it's more stiff before the printhead does it's thing.?
and you can play with the infill pattern too. I want to see some gyroid infill, how it will behave🤔
will you be testing different materials for material creap? plastic deformation resistance to long term static pressure, because stuff can be stiff or tough or soft and forgiving but sometimes that is for nothing because you need constant dimensions and repeatability
This is a great one to test. For instance I've found PETG to be far better vs creep than PLA or Nylon.
It's hard to find, but I've seen two filaments that are "max hardness" TPU. Taulman PCTPE and Ninjaflex Armadillo. They're 1/2 to 1/4 as stiff as PETG, but still have massive elasticity. They're the sweat spot for 3D printed parts that need to be indestructible and stiff.
Extrudr also has a hard tpu but, only 58d. Armadillo is my go to for this part can't break and needs to be stiff, wish it was cheaper.
Yes - do foaming TPU tests for selective crush zones, maybe? And also test NinjaTek Armadillo, which is Shore 75D?
I have been looking for stiffer TPU for a while. Haven’t found anyone making it. Is it something you guys would be able to make/blend or is it not that simple. Something between 98a and PETG.
Ninjatek armadillo there's also one from a European company I believe Extrudr but, armadillo is stiffer it's literally a hard plastic with the benefits of tpu, it's like $40 a half kg though. If Slant could make some for like half that price it would be amazing.
Been thinking about printing some replacement bushings for my shock mounts on my truck.
I've done it for my Vespa scooter rear shock. Bushing has been in operation for 6 months, still in perfect condition. I'd argue it takes as much weight as your truck shocks would, given that all my body weight (240 lbs) is directly above the shock.
I was able to design an impact suspension compliant mechanism from TPU that takes advantage of the material properties.
Wait, this isn't always sunny in Philadelphia
Cold is TPU's enemy
I would like to see it as a gradient infill.
Did you change wall/top/bottom layers at all?
No
Can one show as a summary what all mechanical things can be printed on a 3d printer: Springs (as shock absorbers but also as a wind up mechanism), gears, bearings (almost), wheels, insulation (that piston with a bottle), propellers , this with different filling patterns to obtain different material properties (rigidity, elasticity)...
It would be interesting to stick to 10% infill, but vary infill wall thickness. Alternatively testing a round exterior part to see if holds up better than the cube. (eg: ⭕cylinder on side, with slightly flat top/bottom to keep from rolling if needed)
Such variation in stiffness can enable designing where and how a part deforms. For example could vary outer wall thickness so the part compresses like an accordion. ie: design in natural crease features. Any variation in thickness could be hidden internal on inner surface to make it seem like magic, or a smart part.
Additionally, designing the interior of part to become more resistive to higher loads as compresses can control the amount of distortion. But this is challenging to do without CAD software like Solidworks to visualize internal stress in a part.
It could be interesting to evaluate infill patterns, to understand high stress regions. For example the diagonal collapsing with 45º infill quickly propagates along an infill boundary. However, such simulation features are typically premium CAD options. Even though out of price range of many, it might be worth considering such CAD software as part of a testing series, for making visual aids, or animations.
Love TPU other than ABS it's the only thing I use, printed plenty of indestructible drone parts. Also there is a hard tpu from Ninjatek called armadillo that's 75D but, it's like $40 for 0.5kg and honestly worth every penny when you need it, only downside it has to print slow and hot with minimal or no fan but, when you get the layers to stick well it's just as indestructible as tpu with the stiffness nylon with minimal hygroscopic effect. If someone made it cheaper I'd be all over it, maybe even a middle option between 95a and 75d to print faster and maintain a little more flex.
Your solid print looks like you got a lot of area between layer lines… missing.
What's written on the palm? Don't forget to wash hands? 🙏
You should do such tests with pressure rather than newtons, unless I'm missing something
1 Newton = 0.225 lbs
@@Omniverse0 I don't think you understand. That's still a force.
I'm watching this just as I started 4 tpu feet for a print.... guess what forgot to check walla and infill.... let's see how 4 walls and 15% turn out 😂
TPU is rigid AF, I use 75A TPE for bumpers and feet and stuff
My only problem with TPU is that printing is molasses slow. Even with a direct extruder. My 3d printer is in a home environment and despite the fact that all protections have been activated and tested (thermal runaway, min temp etc) I cannot leave my 3d printer run unattended (even with webcam) because I'm afraid I've made small prints with TPU that take up to 5 hrs but this is it
If you reduce friction on the spool, you can get some speed increases. I can hit 40 to 50 mm/s on some pretty flexible stuff. Depending on what you are printing, it’s pretty decent. I made a custom filament holder for my enclosure that uses skateboard bearings and I have it going to a pretty loose extruder on a Prusa Mk3S+ with a standard revo .6 mm nozzle.
@@MattRhone My spool holder also has bearings, and the direct extruder has a very short path from the intake to the hotend. I need to make a Voron 2.4 to see some real speed
I hope you didn't forget the Milk. and Water Melon and Bacon, and ?
You should invest in a notepad to keep your grocery list
It's all about being efficient. I keep a marker pen as EDC and often jot notes on my wrist.
The weird faces during talking start to seem more weird every time
TPU is VERY dangerous for wildlife so please be mindful of what you do with it, don't trow it on the trash.
In what way?