There was: It helped keep that Gorilla CA glue closer to the tip so it would flow out after it started to thicken with time. If you check out this video you'll see that I no longer find it necessary to store any Starbond glue viscosities on their side: ruclips.net/video/8KU1u_5xvV0/видео.html The fact that Starbond is sold 'fresher' and stays 'fresh/flowable' longer is one of the main reasons I made the switch and endorse both product and company. I'm not much of a salesman but, if you're interested, you can use special offer code NLC during checkout at Starbond Glue and get 15% off your entire order.
Thank you for this excellent tip. I came across this right after learning about the side method on Stumpy Nubs site. I tested both out today and I am no longer regretting the purchase of my bargain benchtop planer.
I haven’t had any accelerant/activator on hand for a while now, but having recently purchased my first desktop thicknesser/planer, I can see value in having it handy. Great tip. Thanks for the video.
Nice idea! Never thought of gluing them to the end. Have run them on the sides with works great, as long as the piece isn’t too wide. Also appreciate the tip about the activator lasting longer than a few seconds. I’ve been putting the glue on first then trying to get the activator sprayed before the glue runs off.
Great tip Matt, I have the same planer. I put the Bosch sawdust bag on the end of a 90-degree sweep to catch all the wood chips. Keep up the good work!!
Thanks tomx63, I see you watching other snipe-related videos on your channel... check out the planer maintenance video I did where you can use some of the tips I show on a DeWalt model on whatever type planer you have for one extra measure you can apply to minimize the snipe problem: ruclips.net/video/r_yEwlsYGbU/видео.html Thanks for watching and commenting! Oh, and if you ever go shopping for a bandsaw be sure to include Lagunas on your list of considerations, they truly are sweet! I've had that for 10 years or so I guess and, at the time, I felt it was the best out there. A lot of things have changed in those years but I think the Laguna guides are still tough to beat for performance. The HD 16 and it's crazy 16" resaw capability is remarkable but I do have to buy 150" blades for it even if I'm only cutting 2" thick stuff... something to consider. Best, Matt
good idea! I will say that I have the Dewalt 734 and the only time I've had any snipe was planning a board that was shorter than the recommended 12" minimum. however, it is new and with still sharp blades.
My favorite part of this video is the disclaimer at the end about the circle. Too funny. I'll try to remember this trick next time! Also a good idea for boards less than 12" with that planer.
3x3... Thanks for adding your comments here at Next Level Carpentry! As a RUclips Channel producer you probably have a more meaningful appreciation of that comment than most ;-) With a quick browse of your nicely styled Channel I noticed you use the same DeWalt thickness planer in your shop... you made a great choice in buying that machine! That choice tells me you've set a good course for your journey into woodworking and DIY by realizing how important good equipment is to getting good results. If/when you shop for the jointer you're wishing for be sure to include a comparison of the benefits of the 'parallelogram' type vs the 'ramp' type adjustment mechanism for its infeed and outfeed tables in your decision. In the meantime, as you build your woodworking skillset I bet you'll find truth in one of my favorite maxims: 'it's not what (tools) you've got but how you use it (them) that matters most'... and with time I think you'll appreciate how it's truth gives rewarding depth to your talent. Best, Next Level Carpentry
3x3, Great. I'm 'just starting out' in channel design and video production and can appreciate much about how you're building that 'new' channel of yours... you set a high standard for channels like mine to aspire to!
Does that mean you're getting a new DW735 planer?! You'll love the machine for this and infinite other uses! Best, Matt BTW You might check out this video for changing knives in your new machine after you've had it for awhile: ruclips.net/video/r_yEwlsYGbU/видео.html Thanks for watching!
You bet, Armando! :-) As long as I'm pushing NLC videos, this one shows a novel way to use your new planer: ruclips.net/video/16iJuXrVDLQ/видео.html to give you an idea of possible uses... Best, Matt
Thanks for the neat trick, I use a sled to mount the outriggers to that can be glued using the long grain rather than relying on end grain, you might find this useful to avoid losing an outrigger. Great video, thanks!!!
Don, Glad you like the video... the method you describe is definitely the way to go in most instances. You must have missed the comment I make starting at 1:20 in the video which explains why I used the approach I did in this particular application. Thanks for commenting... hope you check out other videos at Next Level Carpentry too... and don't hesitate to add useful comments that benefit other viewers... and me too!
Ak, you're welcome for the tip! Rather than wipe off excess glue with a rag or paper towel I choose to hit it with activator so it sets up and turns hard. That way I can scrape it off in chips rather than smear it around because it never all comes off and the gooey excess will just streak the planer platen when it's fed through. Same thing applies when a little glue leaks out on my tabletop. Best, Matt
RUclips recommend Your to me 2 days ago. Looks like they were 120% Correct! Been Checking out your Videos. I've been working with wood for quite a few weeks over 40 years would come close. Thanks, No Joke like Your Ideas and You're Teaching me things. Thanks Again.
Hi Matt, great video. You couldn't put side rails because of the width, so trailing leading edges was a good solution. If material isn't too thick, would the snipe have also been eliminated by putting the board on a sled with a stop ahead of the board e.g. 5 inches from the front - to completely support the board without feed in/out problems?
Sounds like you understand the issues with snipe prevention Simon... if I understand your question I'd agree that you could eliminate snipe by running pieces through on a sled with stops but the stops would need to be tight against the leading and trailing edge of the workpiece so it would essentially be the same as setting the pieces I show in the video on top of the sled so it would be somewhat redundant. If you had a number of identical pieces in a production run of some sort then a sled setup would make sense. Let me know if I totally misunderstood you, OK, and I'll try again? Best, Matt
Theory into practice! I created a torsion box sled from birch plywood and bolted my thicknesser to a plywood in/out feed that's also box section and additionally supported with side rails to support the in/out and thicknesser. My primary use is to make do without a jointer for the first side and the secondary use is to produce snipe free boards. With no movement possible, I can plane cherry boards to 1 3/4" thickness and length 4 1/2 feet without any snipe. But total length on the bench is a 6 1/2 feet jig - so much more involved than just using superglue. For me, the big plus is making do without a jointer using the sled that's super strong from birch plywood (and some shims) - a real work horse, albeit not very portable. I produced 10+ finished boards, with the next step: using your "How to Cut a Straight Edge on Crooked Boards" video, again!
Way to go... a guy's gotta do what he's gotta do, right Simon? Nice work on the 'torsion box' solution... not something everyone is going to need or want but I like how you've dialed in to what you want/need to produce and developed a system to get it done! Best, Matt
It's a good trick, SWG, but you'll find it unnecessary for use with the BS1000 (despite the striking similarity between the two machines 😏) because the Board Stretcher powder is infused with superglue which is added to elongated lignin in the embigulation phase. Best, Matt
Jett, I'm glad uploads have the sort of content that you look forward to! It IS good to share this sort of stuff mainly because it's how this sort of knowledge gets spread around and advanced since there's really no formal program for teaching or learning that works as well IMHO. I'm anxious to get the next videos 'in the pipeline' produced and uploaded since they contain some gems from my 'bag of tricks' that I hope benefit the Next Level Carpentry audience as much as they have helped me over the years...
Hey Matt, good tip. I knew about gluing boards on like that, but didn't know super glue would have enough hold to work. Obviously it does, even on endgrain. Super time saver. Cool.
I will second the activator use. Just started using it a couple months ago, and will never be without it again. Always just thought of it as a fast dryer, but I think you're right. It does add some extra strength. I hadn't thought about soaking the endgrain, but that makes perfect sense. One of those "why didn't I think of that.moments'. Just a little aside. I am a retired Tool & Die maker from doing powder compaction tooling. 44 years working metal and carbide. Concentrating on wood nowadays and getting more and more into hand tools. Anyway, I should have know about how strong super glue is. About 35 or 40 years ago I had a piece to put on the OD grinder and since it was a strange shape (except for the round flange bottom that I had to finish grind) there was no way to hold it in the chuck. So, being the adventurous young crazy guy I was back then, I super glued the base to another hunk of steel and chucked that in the grinder. Keep in mind that this was an upper punch that weighed 15 or 20 pounds and was probably worth about $2500 at that point because it was almost complete. Anyway. long story short, I was sweating bullets all the while I was grinding it hoping it didn't fall off. At the end I had to take a propane torch to it to get the glue to release. I think I was the first person in that shop to try it, and since then it has become standard practice there. So that's my superglue story. Don (cat herder and all around nice guy)
Don, cool to hear your work history... in another life I can see myself following a similar path since those who are adept at working metal (carbide no less) always impress and fascinated me. I didn't mean to imply that activator adds strength but only, as you discovered, CA is almost useless without it because un-predictable curing is unacceptable. Making sure end grain is fully saturated though definitely adds strength. My first exposure to CA was with 2P10 about 10 years ago and it was about $20 for the first drop of glue so I applied it accordingly. I actually brought it back to the store and said it was crap, I want my $$ back :-( The knowing salesman schooled me in making sure to apply enough glue to give it a chance to hold and, by applying his instruction, have used and loved it with great success ever since. I love the CA glue pioneering story... I can actually feel your tension in my bones while visualizing the scenario! You were probably thinking 'if this stuff can hold a dude to a beam by his hardhat, surely it can old this piece of steel to an OD grinder', right? That sort of outside the box thinking will serve you well as you concentrate on woodworking... just make sure to keep body parts far from the equation when doing experimental stuff. A potential failure of a $2,500 part is inconsequential compared to the value of lost/damaged body parts. You know what I'm talking about but so don't take this as a sermon, OK? Right or wrong, I've always had the impression that woodworking tools can remove flesh more quickly than many metalworking machines. Work safe and comment whenever you've got all your felines in line... Best, Matt
I could tell stories for hours about mishaps both on my part and others from work. I'm sure you could also. It's the nature of the beast. I only have one woodwork story so far, and it involves a kickback that amounted to a small board smacking me in the stomach. Happens so fast. That small board is glued to my workshop door with the telltale curved groove showing and a small red mark (my DNA), to remind me not to be stupid. And I don't think you're preaching to me, and I wouldn't mind if you did. I'm all for any knowledge I can manage to accumulate. Take care
Sounds like you too know personally the fact that we begin an endeavor with an empty bag of experience and a full bag of luck, the trick being to fill the bag of experience before emptying the bag of luck :-) The last incident I had in recent memory yielded a small board just like yours with a telltale nasty curved groove from the blade transferring speed from its spinning teeth to the board... except I quickly got rid of the board I had in an effort of denial. The small plywood projectile hit me right in the gut but, thankfully, hit with a flat side rather than a corner which surely would have meant a trip to the ER... that took a big handfull of luck out of the bag, that's for sure! I look forward to your comments... Best, Matt
Thanks Rick... Not sure if you'll see it in other comments but it's not even necessary to use extension sticks much longer than about 3 or 4 inches for this method to work. I used long ones in the video mainly to show that if it can be done with long ones its just that much better and easier to use shorter ones. Thanks for commenting and I hope at some point Next Level Carpentry will earn a spot on your Subscription list... Best, Matt
I just found your channel. Like what I saw. Could you do a short video on the dust collection you have on your planner. I like what little bit I saw. It appears to be a much simpler system than what I am doing. Even pictures of the set up would be helpful. Thanks in advance, and I look forward to watching your other videos.
James, Glad to learn you found Next Level Carpentry and like (some of) the videos here! Interesting you noticed the 'dust collection' setup I use on the DW735 planer. Rather than do a video about it I'll just explain that it is the DW7353 Heavy Duty Chip Collection Accessory which is an effective, inexpensive and excellent solution for those of us who don't have a dedicated system in our shop. I bought the DW7353 accessory with my first DW735 planer when they first came out which must be over 10 years ago by now. When the bag started to show signs of wear about 4 or 5 years ago I learned that DeWalt quit making the DW7353 Heavy Duty Chip Collection Accessory sometime before that. I searched e-Bay for a couple years and finally found one and 'won' the auction but I think they're pretty rare. I did a quick search just now and found forum discussion on the topic where some guys have use a flexible dust collection system hose and made their own draw-string dust bag that fits over a plastic garbage can like mine does. The choice of fabric is key because of the huge volume of air that blows out of the planer... if the fabric doesn't 'breath' properly it will just blow off the top of the can. Mine does that too sometimes when the fabric pores get plugged with fine dust when planing dry 'powdery' wood like mahogany. Let me know if you still have questions because if you do others might and would warrant at least a mention in a future video. Best of luck in your search, Matt
This is so logical once you've seen it done. Im a big fan of super glue and this never occured to me and I've had to sand a lot of snipe away, or worse discover you didn't get it all in final product.
Jim, I'm most curious to know what 'your' name for snipe is... so many terms from 'across the pond' are so much more entertaining than 'ours'... please share if/when you find out? Thanks... and thanks for the sub!
Snipe it is then... although I'm a little bit bummed that you don't have a catchier term for it... like 'bodge' instead of 'jury-rigging'... much, much better term for a less-than-ideal fix!
You bet, Jean... FYI you may have figured this out but the snipe prevention sticks don't need to be as long as the ones I show in the video. I left them long to demonstrate the holding power of the glue process but about 4" is plenty... Best, Matt
I have been seeing orbital planning blades with individual small bits,blades come onto the scene and they look really good , have you seen them for your planer?
Kaveman; Do you mean 'helical' and not 'orbital'? I have the former on my jointer and love them. Other viewers have them on their DeWalt D735's and love them too. Not sure about orbital though... Best, Matt
@@das250250 wow no kidding I have not seen or heard of such a thing do you happen to have a link to share? You've got my curiosity piqued for sure! Best, Matt
Looks like some confusion in terms Kaveman; The video link above is informative but uses the terms 'spiral' and 'helical' rather than 'orbital'. So to answer your original question: yes, I've seen these cutterheads for the DeWalt DW735 but haven't made the decision to switch... yet. Other viewers have them and love them which is good reason for me to check them out. The final piece of information I'll need before making a decision to switch is to see a DW735 with a helical (spiral) cutterhead in operation and examine the surface of the wood coming out. I need to be convinced it's equally smooth and flat to the surface produced by sharp straight knives because I HATE sanding and strive to minimize it at every opportunity. Hope that answers your question... Best, Matt
Thanks Ed, for the comment and the sub! Really appreciate both. Seems nuts to me too that the big boxes don't 'get it' and stock activator! Kind of like selling vel without any cro to go with it, right?
Nice useful tip, I shall use that one. I sometimes get snipe right in the middle of my boards, not every board but every once in a while and I can't seem to work out why. I true all by boards up before planing so if anyone has a solution, I would be most grateful.
Thanks for letting me know you like this tip Cliff! Watch 'Care and Feeding of a DeWalt DW735 Planer' video, also on Next Level Carpentry. Go through similar steps to make sure your thickness planer is performing at it's best and I'll bet you won't get any mid-board snipe anymore. Usually that's from a dirty platen or slippery feed rollers that cause the piece to drag or stop during a pass. It can happen on one board out of a batch if it has a 'sticky' spot on it or even from irregularities in the wood grain itself which can cause the piece to slow or stop and give the knives a chance to dig a little divot in the surface. Hope that helps! Best, Matt
Please let me know how you make out Cliff... I'm quite curious about the snipe thing you've experienced if the maintenance I recommend doesn't resolve it. Best, Matt
Hey Matt, I wanted to tell you I finally put up a few videos. I have a long way to go but I could use your advise and expertise. My channel is Becky’s Texas Wood Shop. I didn’t copy my link but you should find it by that name. Anyway, watch the third video and I explain what help I need in the video. I hope to hear from you. Good work as always in your videos. Becky
Hi Matt, Good idea that, and to allow your twin brother in on the video was also a good idea. Regarding the comment by Jim Geelan from England about not hearing about snipe, it must be the climate down their as in Scotland we certainly get it on certain types of thicknessers. Oh and you spell know, know not no. Silly Billy.
Hi Walter, He's not actually my twin brother, but a highly caffeinated doppelganger... give that guy something to do and then just get out of the way because the chips are gonna fly! :-) Great to hear from Scotland... BTW I dew knot trust my spell checquer... two catch awl my misteaks!
Thanks Jon... BTW if you're doing exactly this the extension sticks don't need to be as long as I show in the video. For most thickness planers 4" would be plenty. Best, Matt
Hi Matt, great vid. Really like that editing program that puts you alongside the action....is it a common feature on editing software? And what are your thoughts on the Laguna bandsaw? They launched them here a few years ago with some value-adding features like an optional light and wheels with the stiffer pyramid frame. However there is a price premium on the range but as for an optional light? Who doesn’t need more light on the blade? Should be mandatory like decent dust collection but it has got me thinking about led lights strips either cut into a door sill or just adhesive... Great work....thanks for posting the vid. I note the subscription increases too. Fingers crossed for the continued increase. Pity how the disclaimer had to be longer than the subject...maybe the trollites require more processing time!! Can’t find any accelerometer for that fandangled flue here in Australia...don’t suppose anybody has any ideas other than bunnings or carbatec? Cheers from over here....
Cognitor, Thanks for the encouraging comments! The "me x 2" video editing magic is a capability of the Camtasia video software I use but not an automatic 'feature'. First time I saw the 'magic' method was on Jay Bates' excellent channel on RUclips so I just stole his clever idea and hashed out how to get it done for NLC videos. Besides being kind of flashy it really helps condense video length by accomplishing two things at the same time. I worry about it being more distracting than helpful sometimes when the video ends up 'choppy' from my lack of experience but hey, it's all part of the learning curve, right? The main reason I bought a Laguna machine was that at the time I felt their proprietary 'Laguna Guide System' was the best guide system available and still really like it. I bought the HD 16 because of it's radical 16" resaw height capacity and have not been disappointed. That said if I were to replace it for any reason I'd probably take a hard look at Powermatic as well as newer Laguna models but focus on the function and capability of their guide systems since they are key to reliable function IMHO. More light is good... I like your thought about adding LEDs now that they're so bright, affordable and available! I'd also like the lever-action or top-mounted wheel tension adjustment features since tension adjustment on this one is a bit awkward with the wheel mounted where it is. Sadly I'll disappoint you on the 'mandatory dust collection thing' as my system is limited to a blow gun and a broom :-) Kinda lost me with the 'bunnings or caratec' part but it's good to hear from you 'over there'
Joel, you're welcome... using an activator with CA glue in the shop for this and countless other applications can be a HUGE benefit to your workflow, I know it has been for mine. Every time I can keep working without having to wait for glue to dry on little things is a HUGE plus. The more times you 'remember this one' the quicker it comes to mind for other applications Regards, Matt
Robert, thank YOU for subscribing to Next Level Carpentry, you're most certainly welcome for the 'sharing'... it's a great feeling to 'pay it forward' out of respect for the mentors who taught and inspired me over the (more than I care to admit) years :-)
Really appreciate your adding so many Next Level Carpentry Videos to your Playlist, Stephen... you're more than welcome! Best, Matt BTW After making this video I realized I should have mentioned that adding 'sticks' of only 3~4" long works as well as the long ones I used in the video so keep that in mind if/when you apply this method and save yourself the extra care and effort required to keep longer sticks attached.
Blake, The Gorilla brand super glue (NOT Gorilla brand polyurethane glue!) is widely available at most any hardware or big box store. The accelerator, which is absolutely invaluable IMHO, is a bit more difficult to find, but it just so happens I have links to both at the Next Level Carpentry Influencer's page at Amazon listed in the video description for your benefit... and mine :-) Near as I can tell all the aerosol activator/accelerators work the same but I much prefer the little 3oz size can you see me using in videos because it's much handier to have around than the larger 7.5oz or 12oz sizes that are available plus it stores easily in my jobsite toolbox and/or nail pouch. At the risk of info overload: I don't really care for the pump-bottle type spray option; seems like they aren't as 'hot' of an activator and so the cure time is longer than I like. If you check out other videos on Next Level Carpentry you'll see many more ways to speed up and improve your work by using them in combination like I do... it always makes me wonder how I ever got along without it! Best, Matt
Blake, Certainly... and FYI I miss-spoke on my first reply and will edit it soon but wanted you to know this right away.... I just went out to my shop to confirm the activator can size to let you know the one I use is the 3oz size for all the reasons explained above. Then I noticed I had the 7.5 oz size on the Influener's page list until just now when I went back in to switch it. The small size is THAT important to me and I didn't want to confuse you over the difference. Also, I do have a can or two of the 7.5 oz size on hand in the shop because it it a little more economical to use, but barely enough to get me to switch :-) You're welcome as well! Best, Matt
Thanks for sayin' Will! The general idea can be adapted to all sorts of applications so I hope you find it useful in projects you're working on... Best, Matt
Because, as a woodworker, I don't always have that luxury? That's definitely the smart/preferred way but sometimes, especially with exotic or rare wood species, this method comes into play.
Rick, thanks for the sub... I'll continue working to provide worthwhile content for viewers like you and look forward to your comments and feedback! Best, Matt
If the boards are all too wide to fit through the planer with sacrificial pieces glued to the edges, just use this same method. Often on long boards there's enough extra length that will get trimmed off anyways that snipe elimination is only an issue with short boards. Hope that helps? Best, Matt
52memor, Sorry about that... I should have included something in the video to show what snipe is and how it looks :-( The term 'snipe' in this context can be described as a slight 'divot' in the end of a board after it passes through a thickness planer. It amounts to a dip in the planed surface at the end of a board of 1/64" to 1/16" 'deep' and usually 2-1/2" long or so and is caused when the board is being held down by only one of the two feed rollers inside the planer head. A lot of factors determine how much and how bad snipe is on a given board but, if not dealt with, it leaves an unsightly blemish on a finished piece. In a lot of instances defective sniped ends can be just cut off as scrap but in cases like the one I show in the video I couldn't spare the extra length from the blank I was making so I went to the extra effort of making it 'snipe free and proud' by making sure the finished piece was always held down by both feed rollers during the planing process. This process leaves all the sniping at the ends of the sacrificial runners because, while snipe can spoil a project, it doesn't have the slightest effect on how those scraps work as kindling in my woodstove :-) That would have been MUCH easier to show in the video but hope this helps answer your question since I'm sure you're not the only one asking it. Best, Matt
You don't actually have to glue the pieces on. Just use a sacrificial board in front of your work piece and push it with a second sacrificial piece. The piece you want planed without the snipe rides between the two. I have the same planer and do it all the time.
Jeff, your method does work exactly the same but I prefer to spend a minute gluing the sacrificial pieces on like I show in the video because then I don't have to juggle and shuffle 3 pieces per pass. As you see in the video I took 8 or so passes and with a workpiece so short it's inevitable that somewhere during the process a piece is going to get dropped or a gap between the pieces will leave the snipe I'm trying to avoid. Plus, the sacrificial pieces I glued on for the video were 3 times as long as necessary but I wanted to demonstrate that the glue holds long ones on very well and is that much more effective with shorter ones. Bottom line though is a guy needs to do what makes most sense for the project at hand using his judgement. Work safely, Jeff, thanks for taking the time to comment on this Next Level Carpentry video... hope you'll check out other stuff on the channel... Best regards, Matt
Hey Jeff, Thanks for taking the time to follow up! I think your comments will help others plan out a workflow and choose a method that makes the most sense for the project at hand...
Those custom outfeed rollers are indeed quite useful and effective. Comments like yours have encouraged me to do a build video for them someday but, sadly, it's going to be awhile! Thanks for commenting Don... Best, Matt
Nicholas, Thanks! You must have seen comments in the video I did showing a great (albeit controversial) tip for fastening wood to concrete to fully appreciate the disclaimer? ruclips.net/video/CSCR3dwaDTo/видео.html Could have saved myself considerable grief if I had included something similar in THAT video!
Thanks for sayin' so, Mark! I'm pleased to see so many Next Level Carpentry videos on the list of 'Liked Videos' on your channel... a bit like sharing with an apprentice in it's own right :-) I saved a number of your other Liked Videos to watch later as it appears you have discerning taste! Best, Matt
Aahhh, yes, Austin... there's not many who don't have something besides a little dip in a planed surface in mind when the word 'snipe' is used! There was this time when my nephew was visiting our rural home from his home in Seattle.... 😂😂😎
Hey sawdust, Kinda looks like I have a nervous tick and work in an earthquake zone, doesn't it? :-) I explain the reason in the 'About' section on my Next Level Carpentry Channel: "Since I'm a MASTER carpenter and video production AMATEUR my hope is that viewers will find enough value in the content to learn worthwhile skills despite my less-than-great video production capabilities." I'm somewhat embarrassed by how 'jumpy' my videos are but it's a by-product of my one-man operation. Believe me; I'm really trying to improve the overall quality of my videos and continue to strive to do so. In a perfect world I'd have a video production 'team' to handle the video part so I could concentrate on providing next-level carpentry content but that hasn't happened... yet. Hope the content you find here is worth putting up with the jumpy distraction...
Next Level Carpentry sorry, not trying to embarrass or harass you, just wondering. The information/content you provide is truly professional. I enjoy learning.
sawdust, No worries... your subscription to NLC indicates your appreciation and earns mine! The smaller jumps are cutting 'dead air' out of the audio so the dialog doesn't drag. The bigger ones are usually from clipping re-takes when I'm 'filming' unrehearsed and 'on-the-fly'. My foray into RUclips has given me a much greater respect for professional video producers, that's for sure! Your comments are always welcome here! Best, Matt
Is there a reason why you store your CA glue on its side? Thank you in advance Daniel
There was: It helped keep that Gorilla CA glue closer to the tip so it would flow out after it started to thicken with time. If you check out this video you'll see that I no longer find it necessary to store any Starbond glue viscosities on their side: ruclips.net/video/8KU1u_5xvV0/видео.html The fact that Starbond is sold 'fresher' and stays 'fresh/flowable' longer is one of the main reasons I made the switch and endorse both product and company. I'm not much of a salesman but, if you're interested, you can use special offer code NLC during checkout at Starbond Glue and get 15% off your entire order.
Thank you for this excellent tip. I came across this right after learning about the side method on Stumpy Nubs site. I tested both out today and I am no longer regretting the purchase of my bargain benchtop planer.
Another tip in my toolbox 👍🏻 Just shared with a good friend of mine 👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks Clint
Works like a charm doesn't it? Thanks for sharing Lucas. Best, Matt
I trust you Matt, i don't have a planer.....YET eheh
I haven’t had any accelerant/activator on hand for a while now, but having recently purchased my first desktop thicknesser/planer, I can see value in having it handy. Great tip. Thanks for the video.
Nice idea! Never thought of gluing them to the end. Have run them on the sides with works great, as long as the piece isn’t too wide. Also appreciate the tip about the activator lasting longer than a few seconds. I’ve been putting the glue on first then trying to get the activator sprayed before the glue runs off.
Kudos for picking up on those key take-away details from this video Bob Bob... it's the little things that count, right? 😎
Great tip Matt,
I have the same planer. I put the Bosch sawdust bag on the end of a 90-degree sweep to catch all the wood chips.
Keep up the good work!!
This is a great method for eliminating snipe. However I'm going to all tangential and say that's a really sweet bandsaw!
Thanks tomx63, I see you watching other snipe-related videos on your channel... check out the planer maintenance video I did where you can use some of the tips I show on a DeWalt model on whatever type planer you have for one extra measure you can apply to minimize the snipe problem: ruclips.net/video/r_yEwlsYGbU/видео.html
Thanks for watching and commenting! Oh, and if you ever go shopping for a bandsaw be sure to include Lagunas on your list of considerations, they truly are sweet! I've had that for 10 years or so I guess and, at the time, I felt it was the best out there. A lot of things have changed in those years but I think the Laguna guides are still tough to beat for performance. The HD 16 and it's crazy 16" resaw capability is remarkable but I do have to buy 150" blades for it even if I'm only cutting 2" thick stuff... something to consider.
Best, Matt
good idea! I will say that I have the Dewalt 734 and the only time I've had any snipe was planning a board that was shorter than the recommended 12" minimum. however, it is new and with still sharp blades.
You are very organized and a master of producing great videos. Keep it up and thanks for sharing!
Thanks Billeybop! I'll try to live up to the compliment you've given... :-)
I always enjoy learning new techniques watching your Videos, anytime I see a new one I watch it. Great Learning opportunities!
My favorite part of this video is the disclaimer at the end about the circle. Too funny. I'll try to remember this trick next time! Also a good idea for boards less than 12" with that planer.
3x3... Thanks for adding your comments here at Next Level Carpentry! As a RUclips Channel producer you probably have a more meaningful appreciation of that comment than most ;-)
With a quick browse of your nicely styled Channel I noticed you use the same DeWalt thickness planer in your shop... you made a great choice in buying that machine! That choice tells me you've set a good course for your journey into woodworking and DIY by realizing how important good equipment is to getting good results. If/when you shop for the jointer you're wishing for be sure to include a comparison of the benefits of the 'parallelogram' type vs the 'ramp' type adjustment mechanism for its infeed and outfeed tables in your decision. In the meantime, as you build your woodworking skillset I bet you'll find truth in one of my favorite maxims: 'it's not what (tools) you've got but how you use it (them) that matters most'... and with time I think you'll appreciate how it's truth gives rewarding depth to your talent.
Best,
Next Level Carpentry
Next Level Carpentry I'm just starting out and can already appreciate it!!
3x3,
Great. I'm 'just starting out' in channel design and video production and can appreciate much about how you're building that 'new' channel of yours... you set a high standard for channels like mine to aspire to!
Another great idea for CA glue. I just ordered my 735X and I will definitely keep your method in mind..Thank you for sharing!
Does that mean you're getting a new DW735 planer?! You'll love the machine for this and infinite other uses! Best, Matt BTW You might check out this video for changing knives in your new machine after you've had it for awhile: ruclips.net/video/r_yEwlsYGbU/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
Yes the DW735X, and I'll check out the knives change video as well. Thanks again.
You bet, Armando! :-) As long as I'm pushing NLC videos, this one shows a novel way to use your new planer: ruclips.net/video/16iJuXrVDLQ/видео.html to give you an idea of possible uses... Best, Matt
So this explains what I can use the wood scraps for, that I have been saving all these years
Thanks for the neat trick, I use a sled to mount the outriggers to that can be glued using the long grain rather than relying on end grain, you might find this useful to avoid losing an outrigger. Great video, thanks!!!
Don, Glad you like the video... the method you describe is definitely the way to go in most instances. You must have missed the comment I make starting at 1:20 in the video which explains why I used the approach I did in this particular application. Thanks for commenting... hope you check out other videos at Next Level Carpentry too... and don't hesitate to add useful comments that benefit other viewers... and me too!
Good advice on the three sacrificial pieces for safety
Good tip. You cleaned the extra glue off with activator. How does that work? Thanks for great tips.
Ak, you're welcome for the tip! Rather than wipe off excess glue with a rag or paper towel I choose to hit it with activator so it sets up and turns hard. That way I can scrape it off in chips rather than smear it around because it never all comes off and the gooey excess will just streak the planer platen when it's fed through. Same thing applies when a little glue leaks out on my tabletop. Best, Matt
Good tip never thought of that. You learn something new every day
RUclips recommend Your to me 2 days ago.
Looks like they were 120% Correct!
Been Checking out your Videos.
I've been working with wood for quite a few weeks over 40 years would come close.
Thanks, No Joke like Your Ideas and You're Teaching me things.
Thanks Again.
Thank you Joe... hope you continue to find Next Level Carpentry a good fit! Best, Matt
Hi Matt, great video. You couldn't put side rails because of the width, so trailing leading edges was a good solution. If material isn't too thick, would the snipe have also been eliminated by putting the board on a sled with a stop ahead of the board e.g. 5 inches from the front - to completely support the board without feed in/out problems?
Sounds like you understand the issues with snipe prevention Simon... if I understand your question I'd agree that you could eliminate snipe by running pieces through on a sled with stops but the stops would need to be tight against the leading and trailing edge of the workpiece so it would essentially be the same as setting the pieces I show in the video on top of the sled so it would be somewhat redundant. If you had a number of identical pieces in a production run of some sort then a sled setup would make sense. Let me know if I totally misunderstood you, OK, and I'll try again? Best, Matt
Theory into practice! I created a torsion box sled from birch plywood and bolted my thicknesser to a plywood in/out feed that's also box section and additionally supported with side rails to support the in/out and thicknesser. My primary use is to make do without a jointer for the first side and the secondary use is to produce snipe free boards. With no movement possible, I can plane cherry boards to 1 3/4" thickness and length 4 1/2 feet without any snipe. But total length on the bench is a 6 1/2 feet jig - so much more involved than just using superglue. For me, the big plus is making do without a jointer using the sled that's super strong from birch plywood (and some shims) - a real work horse, albeit not very portable. I produced 10+ finished boards, with the next step: using your "How to Cut a Straight Edge on Crooked Boards" video, again!
Way to go... a guy's gotta do what he's gotta do, right Simon? Nice work on the 'torsion box' solution... not something everyone is going to need or want but I like how you've dialed in to what you want/need to produce and developed a system to get it done! Best, Matt
Thank you sir fast and extremely simple
Thanks for teaching me yet another carpentry trick - does this work on the board stretcher DuhWalt BS1000 too?
It's a good trick, SWG, but you'll find it unnecessary for use with the BS1000 (despite the striking similarity between the two machines 😏) because the Board Stretcher powder is infused with superglue which is added to elongated lignin in the embigulation phase. Best, Matt
Man, you are funny - your embigulation humor certainly makes me laugh.
Really look forward to your uploads...Very sweet to offer what we know thru experience and working things out...
Jett, I'm glad uploads have the sort of content that you look forward to! It IS good to share this sort of stuff mainly because it's how this sort of knowledge gets spread around and advanced since there's really no formal program for teaching or learning that works as well IMHO.
I'm anxious to get the next videos 'in the pipeline' produced and uploaded since they contain some gems from my 'bag of tricks' that I hope benefit the Next Level Carpentry audience as much as they have helped me over the years...
Hey Matt, good tip. I knew about gluing boards on like that, but didn't know super glue would have enough hold to work. Obviously it does, even on endgrain. Super time saver. Cool.
I will second the activator use. Just started using it a couple months ago, and will never be without it again. Always just thought of it as a fast dryer, but I think you're right. It does add some extra strength. I hadn't thought about soaking the endgrain, but that makes perfect sense. One of those "why didn't I think of that.moments'.
Just a little aside. I am a retired Tool & Die maker from doing powder compaction tooling. 44 years working metal and carbide. Concentrating on wood nowadays and getting more and more into hand tools. Anyway, I should have know about how strong super glue is. About 35 or 40 years ago I had a piece to put on the OD grinder and since it was a strange shape (except for the round flange bottom that I had to finish grind) there was no way to hold it in the chuck. So, being the adventurous young crazy guy I was back then, I super glued the base to another hunk of steel and chucked that in the grinder. Keep in mind that this was an upper punch that weighed 15 or 20 pounds and was probably worth about $2500 at that point because it was almost complete. Anyway. long story short, I was sweating bullets all the while I was grinding it hoping it didn't fall off. At the end I had to take a propane torch to it to get the glue to release. I think I was the first person in that shop to try it, and since then it has become standard practice there. So that's my superglue story.
Don
(cat herder and all around nice guy)
Don, cool to hear your work history... in another life I can see myself following a similar path since those who are adept at working metal (carbide no less) always impress and fascinated me.
I didn't mean to imply that activator adds strength but only, as you discovered, CA is almost useless without it because un-predictable curing is unacceptable. Making sure end grain is fully saturated though definitely adds strength. My first exposure to CA was with 2P10 about 10 years ago and it was about $20 for the first drop of glue so I applied it accordingly. I actually brought it back to the store and said it was crap, I want my $$ back :-( The knowing salesman schooled me in making sure to apply enough glue to give it a chance to hold and, by applying his instruction, have used and loved it with great success ever since.
I love the CA glue pioneering story... I can actually feel your tension in my bones while visualizing the scenario! You were probably thinking 'if this stuff can hold a dude to a beam by his hardhat, surely it can old this piece of steel to an OD grinder', right? That sort of outside the box thinking will serve you well as you concentrate on woodworking... just make sure to keep body parts far from the equation when doing experimental stuff. A potential failure of a $2,500 part is inconsequential compared to the value of lost/damaged body parts. You know what I'm talking about but so don't take this as a sermon, OK? Right or wrong, I've always had the impression that woodworking tools can remove flesh more quickly than many metalworking machines. Work safe and comment whenever you've got all your felines in line... Best, Matt
I could tell stories for hours about mishaps both on my part and others from work. I'm sure you could also. It's the nature of the beast. I only have one woodwork story so far, and it involves a kickback that amounted to a small board smacking me in the stomach. Happens so fast. That small board is glued to my workshop door with the telltale curved groove showing and a small red mark (my DNA), to remind me not to be stupid.
And I don't think you're preaching to me, and I wouldn't mind if you did. I'm all for any knowledge I can manage to accumulate.
Take care
Sounds like you too know personally the fact that we begin an endeavor with an empty bag of experience and a full bag of luck, the trick being to fill the bag of experience before emptying the bag of luck :-)
The last incident I had in recent memory yielded a small board just like yours with a telltale nasty curved groove from the blade transferring speed from its spinning teeth to the board... except I quickly got rid of the board I had in an effort of denial. The small plywood projectile hit me right in the gut but, thankfully, hit with a flat side rather than a corner which surely would have meant a trip to the ER... that took a big handfull of luck out of the bag, that's for sure! I look forward to your comments... Best, Matt
best antisnipe video yet
Thanks Rick... Not sure if you'll see it in other comments but it's not even necessary to use extension sticks much longer than about 3 or 4 inches for this method to work. I used long ones in the video mainly to show that if it can be done with long ones its just that much better and easier to use shorter ones.
Thanks for commenting and I hope at some point Next Level Carpentry will earn a spot on your Subscription list...
Best,
Matt
I just found your channel. Like what I saw. Could you do a short video on the dust collection you have on your planner. I like what little bit I saw. It appears to be a much simpler system than what I am doing. Even pictures of the set up would be helpful. Thanks in advance, and I look forward to watching your other videos.
James, Glad to learn you found Next Level Carpentry and like (some of) the videos here! Interesting you noticed the 'dust collection' setup I use on the DW735 planer.
Rather than do a video about it I'll just explain that it is the DW7353 Heavy Duty Chip Collection Accessory which is an effective, inexpensive and excellent solution for those of us who don't have a dedicated system in our shop. I bought the DW7353 accessory with my first DW735 planer when they first came out which must be over 10 years ago by now. When the bag started to show signs of wear about 4 or 5 years ago I learned that DeWalt quit making the DW7353 Heavy Duty Chip Collection Accessory sometime before that. I searched e-Bay for a couple years and finally found one and 'won' the auction but I think they're pretty rare.
I did a quick search just now and found forum discussion on the topic where some guys have use a flexible dust collection system hose and made their own draw-string dust bag that fits over a plastic garbage can like mine does. The choice of fabric is key because of the huge volume of air that blows out of the planer... if the fabric doesn't 'breath' properly it will just blow off the top of the can. Mine does that too sometimes when the fabric pores get plugged with fine dust when planing dry 'powdery' wood like mahogany. Let me know if you still have questions because if you do others might and would warrant at least a mention in a future video.
Best of luck in your search,
Matt
This is so logical once you've seen it done. Im a big fan of super glue and this never occured to me and I've had to sand a lot of snipe away, or worse discover you didn't get it all in final product.
Bloody hell !! fantastic tip. We in England have never come across the term ( snipe ) but we do have the problem, I don't no if we gave a name for it
Jim, I'm most curious to know what 'your' name for snipe is... so many terms from 'across the pond' are so much more entertaining than 'ours'... please share if/when you find out? Thanks... and thanks for the sub!
I call it snipe but maybe I've watched too many N American videos on youtube :)
Nice tip BTW :)
As a timserved joiner I've known it as snipe here in uk
Snipe it is then... although I'm a little bit bummed that you don't have a catchier term for it... like 'bodge' instead of 'jury-rigging'... much, much better term for a less-than-ideal fix!
Great Idea Matt, Thank You.
You bet, Jean... FYI you may have figured this out but the snipe prevention sticks don't need to be as long as the ones I show in the video. I left them long to demonstrate the holding power of the glue process but about 4" is plenty... Best, Matt
I have been seeing orbital planning blades with individual small bits,blades come onto the scene and they look really good , have you seen them for your planer?
Kaveman; Do you mean 'helical' and not 'orbital'? I have the former on my jointer and love them. Other viewers have them on their DeWalt D735's and love them too. Not sure about orbital though... Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry yes i meant orbital
@@das250250 wow no kidding I have not seen or heard of such a thing do you happen to have a link to share? You've got my curiosity piqued for sure!
Best, Matt
ruclips.net/video/zTLSPBT0zfI/видео.html
Looks like some confusion in terms Kaveman; The video link above is informative but uses the terms 'spiral' and 'helical' rather than 'orbital'. So to answer your original question: yes, I've seen these cutterheads for the DeWalt DW735 but haven't made the decision to switch... yet. Other viewers have them and love them which is good reason for me to check them out. The final piece of information I'll need before making a decision to switch is to see a DW735 with a helical (spiral) cutterhead in operation and examine the surface of the wood coming out. I need to be convinced it's equally smooth and flat to the surface produced by sharp straight knives because I HATE sanding and strive to minimize it at every opportunity.
Hope that answers your question... Best, Matt
Great solution to a common problem.
Thanks for saying so, Robert! Hope you can put this to use on projects you're doing... Best, Matt
Excellent!
What is that cart your using for your planer?
Great Tip, I will be using it
Thanks Wally... the possibilities are endless and, once you start to adapt this sort of application you'll brainstorm more all the time!
Great tip. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
P.S. As others have noted - great bandsaw.
Nice trick Matt, again this is something I will certainly use. Just wish I could get my big box store to stock the activator!
Thanks Ed, for the comment and the sub! Really appreciate both. Seems nuts to me too that the big boxes don't 'get it' and stock activator! Kind of like selling vel without any cro to go with it, right?
Nice useful tip, I shall use that one. I sometimes get snipe right in the middle of my boards, not every board but every once in a while and I can't seem to work out why. I true all by boards up before planing so if anyone has a solution, I would be most grateful.
Thanks for letting me know you like this tip Cliff! Watch 'Care and Feeding of a DeWalt DW735 Planer' video, also on Next Level Carpentry. Go through similar steps to make sure your thickness planer is performing at it's best and I'll bet you won't get any mid-board snipe anymore. Usually that's from a dirty platen or slippery feed rollers that cause the piece to drag or stop during a pass. It can happen on one board out of a batch if it has a 'sticky' spot on it or even from irregularities in the wood grain itself which can cause the piece to slow or stop and give the knives a chance to dig a little divot in the surface. Hope that helps! Best, Matt
Thank you, Matt. Very grateful for your advice.
Please let me know how you make out Cliff... I'm quite curious about the snipe thing you've experienced if the maintenance I recommend doesn't resolve it. Best, Matt
Excellent video and process
Thanks for sharing
"wipe little Johnny's nose before I put him to bed" haha
Hiya Matt, nice one and "loved" the disclaimer!! :-)
Mark,
Glad you liked it and took the time to say so! Can ya tell by that disclaimer that I've been through the ringer recently?! Cheers :-)
Always helpful and informative, Thank you.
Frank
Frank, thanks for sayin' so... you're welcome!
Great tip! I’m gunna give that a go next time!
Hey Matt, I wanted to tell you I finally put up a few videos. I have a long way to go but I could use your advise and expertise. My channel is Becky’s Texas Wood Shop. I didn’t copy my link but you should find it by that name. Anyway, watch the third video and I explain what help I need in the video. I hope to hear from you. Good work as always in your videos. Becky
Enjoyed your info
Hi Matt, Good idea that, and to allow your twin brother in on the video was also a good idea. Regarding the comment by Jim Geelan from England about not hearing about snipe, it must be the climate down their as in Scotland we certainly get it on certain types of thicknessers. Oh and you spell know, know not no. Silly Billy.
Hi Walter,
He's not actually my twin brother, but a highly caffeinated doppelganger... give that guy something to do and then just get out of the way because the chips are gonna fly! :-)
Great to hear from Scotland...
BTW I dew knot trust my spell checquer... two catch awl my misteaks!
Not your mistake Matt, numpty further down the comments. (Jim Geelan).
No worries, I'm just enjoying the banter from you guys... livens things up around here considerably!
Another great video Matt. Just what I was looking for.
Thanks Jon... BTW if you're doing exactly this the extension sticks don't need to be as long as I show in the video. For most thickness planers 4" would be plenty. Best, Matt
Great idea thank you
Hi Matt, great vid. Really like that editing program that puts you alongside the action....is it a common feature on editing software? And what are your thoughts on the Laguna bandsaw? They launched them here a few years ago with some value-adding features like an optional light and wheels with the stiffer pyramid frame. However there is a price premium on the range but as for an optional light? Who doesn’t need more light on the blade? Should be mandatory like decent dust collection but it has got me thinking about led lights strips either cut into a door sill or just adhesive...
Great work....thanks for posting the vid. I note the subscription increases too. Fingers crossed for the continued increase.
Pity how the disclaimer had to be longer than the subject...maybe the trollites require more processing time!!
Can’t find any accelerometer for that fandangled flue here in Australia...don’t suppose anybody has any ideas other than bunnings or carbatec? Cheers from over here....
Cognitor, Thanks for the encouraging comments! The "me x 2" video editing magic is a capability of the Camtasia video software I use but not an automatic 'feature'. First time I saw the 'magic' method was on Jay Bates' excellent channel on RUclips so I just stole his clever idea and hashed out how to get it done for NLC videos. Besides being kind of flashy it really helps condense video length by accomplishing two things at the same time. I worry about it being more distracting than helpful sometimes when the video ends up 'choppy' from my lack of experience but hey, it's all part of the learning curve, right?
The main reason I bought a Laguna machine was that at the time I felt their proprietary 'Laguna Guide System' was the best guide system available and still really like it. I bought the HD 16 because of it's radical 16" resaw height capacity and have not been disappointed. That said if I were to replace it for any reason I'd probably take a hard look at Powermatic as well as newer Laguna models but focus on the function and capability of their guide systems since they are key to reliable function IMHO. More light is good... I like your thought about adding LEDs now that they're so bright, affordable and available! I'd also like the lever-action or top-mounted wheel tension adjustment features since tension adjustment on this one is a bit awkward with the wheel mounted where it is. Sadly I'll disappoint you on the 'mandatory dust collection thing' as my system is limited to a blow gun and a broom :-)
Kinda lost me with the 'bunnings or caratec' part but it's good to hear from you 'over there'
Great idea. I'm going to have to remember this one. Thanks.
Joel, you're welcome... using an activator with CA glue in the shop for this and countless other applications can be a HUGE benefit to your workflow, I know it has been for mine. Every time I can keep working without having to wait for glue to dry on little things is a HUGE plus. The more times you 'remember this one' the quicker it comes to mind for other applications
Regards,
Matt
Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Robert, thank YOU for subscribing to Next Level Carpentry, you're most certainly welcome for the 'sharing'... it's a great feeling to 'pay it forward' out of respect for the mentors who taught and inspired me over the (more than I care to admit) years :-)
Great idea! I start "saving" my fished boards today. Thanks!
Thanks again another great idea
Really appreciate your adding so many Next Level Carpentry Videos to your Playlist, Stephen... you're more than welcome! Best, Matt
BTW After making this video I realized I should have mentioned that adding 'sticks' of only 3~4" long works as well as the long ones I used in the video so keep that in mind if/when you apply this method and save yourself the extra care and effort required to keep longer sticks attached.
Where do you get your accelerator and glue from?
Blake,
The Gorilla brand super glue (NOT Gorilla brand polyurethane glue!) is widely available at most any hardware or big box store. The accelerator, which is absolutely invaluable IMHO, is a bit more difficult to find, but it just so happens I have links to both at the Next Level Carpentry Influencer's page at Amazon listed in the video description for your benefit... and mine :-) Near as I can tell all the aerosol activator/accelerators work the same but I much prefer the little 3oz size can you see me using in videos because it's much handier to have around than the larger 7.5oz or 12oz sizes that are available plus it stores easily in my jobsite toolbox and/or nail pouch. At the risk of info overload: I don't really care for the pump-bottle type spray option; seems like they aren't as 'hot' of an activator and so the cure time is longer than I like. If you check out other videos on Next Level Carpentry you'll see many more ways to speed up and improve your work by using them in combination like I do... it always makes me wonder how I ever got along without it!
Best,
Matt
Next Level Carpentry thank you as always!
Blake, Certainly... and FYI I miss-spoke on my first reply and will edit it soon but wanted you to know this right away.... I just went out to my shop to confirm the activator can size to let you know the one I use is the 3oz size for all the reasons explained above. Then I noticed I had the 7.5 oz size on the Influener's page list until just now when I went back in to switch it. The small size is THAT important to me and I didn't want to confuse you over the difference. Also, I do have a can or two of the 7.5 oz size on hand in the shop because it it a little more economical to use, but barely enough to get me to switch :-)
You're welcome as well!
Best,
Matt
great idea
Thanks for sayin' Will! The general idea can be adapted to all sorts of applications so I hope you find it useful in projects you're working on... Best, Matt
Why would you be getting snipe using a DW735? or a DW734 for that matter.. These are the only planers I managed to eliminate snipe on
nice idea
Thanks, African! Best, Matt
Excellent tip
SmokeFlame; thanks for saying so!
Good Job
Thanks for sayin' Robert... it's one of those tricks you don't need often but really gets the job done when you do! Best, Matt
Another good one. Thanks !
You're welcome, Dimitar! Hope you're able to apply and adapt ideas from the video to make projects you do go a little more smoothly...
👍 great idea
Thanks Ivo... hope it comes in handy/useful for you on projects you're working on... Best, Matt
Sure will
Awesome tip! Thank you, again!
You're welcome! Superglue with activator has become one of those things that constantly makes me wonder what I ever did without it!
Why not simply leave 1 or 2 boards extra long when you glue up the panel, THEN cut your panel to size after planing?
Because, as a woodworker, I don't always have that luxury? That's definitely the smart/preferred way but sometimes, especially with exotic or rare wood species, this method comes into play.
thanks for the comeback just forgot to subscribe just did
Rick, thanks for the sub... I'll continue working to provide worthwhile content for viewers like you and look forward to your comments and feedback!
Best,
Matt
That is a good solution for 1 board but if there are several long boards then what?
If the boards are all too wide to fit through the planer with sacrificial pieces glued to the edges, just use this same method. Often on long boards there's enough extra length that will get trimmed off anyways that snipe elimination is only an issue with short boards. Hope that helps? Best, Matt
It would be helpful if you could say what exactly "SNIPE" is?
52memor,
Sorry about that... I should have included something in the video to show what snipe is and how it looks :-(
The term 'snipe' in this context can be described as a slight 'divot' in the end of a board after it passes through a thickness planer. It amounts to a dip in the planed surface at the end of a board of 1/64" to 1/16" 'deep' and usually 2-1/2" long or so and is caused when the board is being held down by only one of the two feed rollers inside the planer head. A lot of factors determine how much and how bad snipe is on a given board but, if not dealt with, it leaves an unsightly blemish on a finished piece. In a lot of instances defective sniped ends can be just cut off as scrap but in cases like the one I show in the video I couldn't spare the extra length from the blank I was making so I went to the extra effort of making it 'snipe free and proud' by making sure the finished piece was always held down by both feed rollers during the planing process. This process leaves all the sniping at the ends of the sacrificial runners because, while snipe can spoil a project, it doesn't have the slightest effect on how those scraps work as kindling in my woodstove :-)
That would have been MUCH easier to show in the video but hope this helps answer your question since I'm sure you're not the only one asking it.
Best,
Matt
You don't actually have to glue the pieces on. Just use a sacrificial board in front of your work piece and push it with a second sacrificial piece. The piece you want planed without the snipe rides between the two. I have the same planer and do it all the time.
Jeff, your method does work exactly the same but I prefer to spend a minute gluing the sacrificial pieces on like I show in the video because then I don't have to juggle and shuffle 3 pieces per pass. As you see in the video I took 8 or so passes and with a workpiece so short it's inevitable that somewhere during the process a piece is going to get dropped or a gap between the pieces will leave the snipe I'm trying to avoid. Plus, the sacrificial pieces I glued on for the video were 3 times as long as necessary but I wanted to demonstrate that the glue holds long ones on very well and is that much more effective with shorter ones. Bottom line though is a guy needs to do what makes most sense for the project at hand using his judgement. Work safely, Jeff, thanks for taking the time to comment on this Next Level Carpentry video... hope you'll check out other stuff on the channel...
Best regards,
Matt
Fair enough
Hey Jeff,
Thanks for taking the time to follow up! I think your comments will help others plan out a workflow and choose a method that makes the most sense for the project at hand...
but have you ever been on a snipe hunt?
Oh yes. At 75 it is still memorable. It scared the hell.out me as 9 year old.
Please make a video on how you made that glue holder. Thanks!
Maybe someday... interesting that you noticed it and asked... it's super handy to have around and I don't know how I'd do without it! Best, Matt
Pro Tip 👍🏾
Thanks Vijay... glad to help with OCD therapy :-)
Next Level Carpentry 👍🏾
Thank you sir for sharing this video!!! :D
You bet, Emmanuel! Hope you're able to put it to good use on a project of yours...
Can you make a video on your custom out feed rollers? They seem very effective.
Those custom outfeed rollers are indeed quite useful and effective. Comments like yours have encouraged me to do a build video for them someday but, sadly, it's going to be awhile! Thanks for commenting Don... Best, Matt
"It's just the prudent thing to do" --
Just dodging bullets before they're fired, right?
Great disclaimer lol .
Nicholas,
Thanks! You must have seen comments in the video I did showing a great (albeit controversial) tip for fastening wood to concrete to fully appreciate the disclaimer? ruclips.net/video/CSCR3dwaDTo/видео.html Could have saved myself considerable grief if I had included something similar in THAT video!
If you had an apprentice, they be a very lucky tradesmen.
Thanks for sayin' so, Mark! I'm pleased to see so many Next Level Carpentry videos on the list of 'Liked Videos' on your channel... a bit like sharing with an apprentice in it's own right :-) I saved a number of your other Liked Videos to watch later as it appears you have discerning taste!
Best,
Matt
I thought that RUclips didn't monetize videos that were not a minimum of 10 minutes?
Near as I can tell they'd much rather have 10 nine minute videos than one 90 minute video... an eternal frustration to me. Best, Matt
Ok
good tip ;0)
GreenMan,
Thanks for the comment and sub!! Much appreciated here...
I still think of snipe hunting every time I hear that word...
Aahhh, yes, Austin... there's not many who don't have something besides a little dip in a planed surface in mind when the word 'snipe' is used! There was this time when my nephew was visiting our rural home from his home in Seattle.... 😂😂😎
Four people have poor hand-eye coordination and accidentally clicked the dislike button.
Mollica, That's my story... and I'm stickin' to it! Thank you :-)
Why do you videos "jump" so much?
Hey sawdust,
Kinda looks like I have a nervous tick and work in an earthquake zone, doesn't it? :-)
I explain the reason in the 'About' section on my Next Level Carpentry Channel:
"Since I'm a MASTER carpenter and video production AMATEUR my hope is that viewers will find enough value in the content to learn worthwhile skills despite my less-than-great video production capabilities."
I'm somewhat embarrassed by how 'jumpy' my videos are but it's a by-product of my one-man operation. Believe me; I'm really trying to improve the overall quality of my videos and continue to strive to do so. In a perfect world I'd have a video production 'team' to handle the video part so I could concentrate on providing next-level carpentry content but that hasn't happened... yet. Hope the content you find here is worth putting up with the jumpy distraction...
Next Level Carpentry sorry, not trying to embarrass or harass you, just wondering. The information/content you provide is truly professional. I enjoy learning.
sawdust,
No worries... your subscription to NLC indicates your appreciation and earns mine!
The smaller jumps are cutting 'dead air' out of the audio so the dialog doesn't drag. The bigger ones are usually from clipping re-takes when I'm 'filming' unrehearsed and 'on-the-fly'. My foray into RUclips has given me a much greater respect for professional video producers, that's for sure!
Your comments are always welcome here!
Best,
Matt