Thanks for posting this. I used it as a great source of information to see how to remove the bottom plate, clean up 50 years of vertigris, and re-solder the feed to the meter switch that had let go. Thrilled to have the camera working perfectly!
They say that an f2 can last a century without maintenance... this f2 has seen a lot of abuse in its life, therefore it is no longer working. But with the proper parts it is possible to resurrect it. Once a lifetime ago I went into the depths of the f2 and concluded that the rumour is correct. This is the best mechanical camera ever made. Together with the Leica M3 which is not a SLR and therefore less complex. Still you have got to admire the design of the f2. The modular approach inherited from the original Nikon F. But more refined... thank you dearly for this video. Maybe you will find another submerged one to resurrect this otherwise fine camera... thank you once again!
Sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know of a method to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost the login password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Leland Jermaine thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hi Kenneth; In my opinion these 2 videos are the finest on F2 repair that I have ever seen! Your information and procedure and explanation are priceless. Thanks again for all the work you do to help us in our repairs and if nothing else, just showing us how these darn cameras work!
You're the man. Thank you. Tripod tipped over while the cable release was attached and broke my button. The previous video as well as this one have been extremely helpful in the disassembly and repair. Thank you!
Hi Kenneth; Thanks to your video I was able to repair a F2 that I picked up for pocket change! The film advance was jammed. With a cleaning of the "dogleg" and other pivot points inside the bottom plate it advances normally now. Some new seals, and we will be ready to go! THANKS!!!
Wonderfull video.when I was young in the 1970s my uncle had a yashica electro ax camera he bought new and he use to get nikon brouchers on the nikon f2.i use to read them and found them very fascinating.i dont know why but I have had all sorts of cameras.but I stick with Nikon.i bought my first nikon fe camera in 1978.then fm.i only ever owned a nikon f2as which was in mind condition but I sold it years ago.i love the looks and feel of both the nikon f and f2.nikon engineering is superb.
Great autopsy, I had to disassemble my F2 last year to clean the slow gear mechanism that was sticky (that's why Leica changed it's position to the top of their cameras like the Leicaflex, because on the bottom it gets dirty). And also I had to change the battery case that was damaged. Now it works perfectly. If I had seen this before it would for sure had helped me.
@@mikeno62 I'm still waiting for the oportunity of when you show how to disassamble the Tamron 80-210/3.5-4.0 Adaptall-2. Your videos are of great value.
Hey Mikeno, Thanks for your very helpful and informative tutorial about how to disassemble this camera! I am just fixing one of my own F2, and it helped a lot! Please do not throw away such non-repairable cameras, as they are very valuable as donors, to get spareparts for another camera! I fixed one of my very beautiful Nikon F with a torn shutter curtain by taking the curtain out of another camera, that got into water and was full of rust - but fortunately, the titanium shutter curtains were completely intact! I have two questions: - Isn't it a good idea, to not drown the selftimer escapement completely into IPA, as the driver spring is probably also lubed with some thicker grease, that might get washed out? So, if you do not want to completely dissassemble the whole unit, I'd rather only clean the low torque / high speed gears and keep the spring box away from the alcohol... - I'd love to learn a bit more about the adjustment options for the shorter exposure times... There are two concentric screws on top of the timing mechanism on the upper side of the camera... They are connected to excentric parts underneath the mounting plate, and I am pretty much confident, that these are the spots where you can adjust the other speeds... It would be great, to get info about which time to adjust where - and in which order... Until now, the only adjustments I did was the main springs, driving the curtains (first, I adjusted the second curtain spring so, that the slow escapement works fine, then I adjusted the first curtain for identical exceleration, resulting in even exposure from left to right @ short speeds.) Thanks for all your great help, man!!!
Thanks very much for all your valuable instructionals. In this this one, I was disappointed that you did not show us how to disassemble the re-wind mechanism, which is the very problem I'm having with an F2 I have. Trying to raise the spindle to allow me to insert a roll of film does not work: it will not raise either by pushing upward from inside the film chamber or by pulling up on the rewind knob. Any thoughts, Kenneth?
I look at the complexity of all the metal parts and now understand why these cost close to $1,000 back in the day. I put thousands of rolls through these ...with motor drives and they never failed. Never. Too bad digital came along. :)
many Thanks for both videos, this was rescue my F2, still just un issue with the speed 1/4, it works, aftrer selecting it it works one time correcelly the it fire too fast !!
hello awesome video btw i have a stuck rear view finder release button on my F2. could you give some insight on how to make it release my view finder.. i fear it is jammed internally. the front release lever works just fine. thanks for any help
Great videos! I have the following problem with my f2. When I bought it, it was working, although 1s speed was really slow. But all other speeds looked fine. At some point, I decided to remove the bottom cover, but the screw with two holes is really really stuck. After forcing it a bit, the camera just became stuck. It wont' fire anymore. After I removed the mirror box, I was able to unstuck the curtain, but now the camera just fires normally at low speeds. Over 1/125, the shutter just fires all the same, and really really fast. Bulb too. Do you have any idea of where the problem is?
I am curious, one of my F2a prisma lightmeters does not work correctly. At the contact points on top of the body i measure 2.76 volt and it is not consistent. I suspect a bad solder or so. The compartment is clean. The contact you activated with the film transport lever (on of function) is like new. But to reach the underside of the battery compartment you need to remove the mirror house?
With the F2, it is not uncommon, that corrosion appears at the screw, where the middle contact of the bat compartment is screwed to the plastic part of the housing. Also the plastic tends to crack, both resulting in bad contact to the wire, that is soldered to a seperate terminal, held by the same screw. I glued the plastic part in my F2 with superglue, and it seems to work (but I cannot tell, how long it wil last). For sure, the best option is to replace a broken compartment with a new one. An, yes, you need to pull the mirrorbox to get access to the battery compartment.
@@salossi I did fix it already. I did take the body apart and the little brass contact on the battery compartment that is clamped on the power wire of the light meter contact was eaten all up by corrosion. I did replace it for a metal one and the meter was working perfect. Getting at the underside of the compartment was the hardest and removing the shutterhouse was needed. But beeing a great build camera it was a joy to work on.
HelloMikeno, please i need your support to reassemble a Nikon F3, the issue is that the film advance but the curtain does not move, i removed the speeds selector and the part located just under it who turns the mechanism that pulls the curtain, my problem now is how align the gears ans parts to reasemble correctelly the mechanisme Thank you in advance
![LAVROV's interview with Tucker CARLSON 😁 [Parody]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mbMemqc-QEk/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for posting this. I used it as a great source of information to see how to remove the bottom plate, clean up 50 years of vertigris, and re-solder the feed to the meter switch that had let go. Thrilled to have the camera working perfectly!
They say that an f2 can last a century without maintenance... this f2 has seen a lot of abuse in its life, therefore it is no longer working. But with the proper parts it is possible to resurrect it. Once a lifetime ago I went into the depths of the f2 and concluded that the rumour is correct. This is the best mechanical camera ever made. Together with the Leica M3 which is not a SLR and therefore less complex. Still you have got to admire the design of the f2. The modular approach inherited from the original Nikon F. But more refined... thank you dearly for this video. Maybe you will find another submerged one to resurrect this otherwise fine camera... thank you once again!
Sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know of a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost the login password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Asa Jefferson Instablaster =)
@Leland Jermaine thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Leland Jermaine it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass !
@Asa Jefferson Happy to help :D
Hi Kenneth; In my opinion these 2 videos are the finest on F2 repair that I have ever seen! Your information and procedure and explanation are priceless. Thanks again for all the work you do to help us in our repairs and if nothing else, just showing us how these darn cameras work!
Thank's Tom, I try to do my best :-)
Fantastic autopsy ! Big respect for this F2 and his complexity ! Human genius...very good job.
You're the man. Thank you. Tripod tipped over while the cable release was attached and broke my button. The previous video as well as this one have been extremely helpful in the disassembly and repair. Thank you!
Hi Kenneth; Thanks to your video I was able to repair a F2 that I picked up for pocket change! The film advance was jammed. With a cleaning of the "dogleg" and other pivot points inside the bottom plate it advances normally now. Some new seals, and we will be ready to go! THANKS!!!
My F was resurrected thanks to your video!
Wonderfull video.when I was young in the 1970s my uncle had a yashica electro ax camera he bought new and he use to get nikon brouchers on the nikon f2.i use to read them and found them very fascinating.i dont know why but I have had all sorts of cameras.but I stick with Nikon.i bought my first nikon fe camera in 1978.then fm.i only ever owned a nikon f2as which was in mind condition but I sold it years ago.i love the looks and feel of both the nikon f and f2.nikon engineering is superb.
Great autopsy, I had to disassemble my F2 last year to clean the slow gear mechanism that was sticky (that's why Leica changed it's position to the top of their cameras like the Leicaflex, because on the bottom it gets dirty). And also I had to change the battery case that was damaged. Now it works perfectly. If I had seen this before it would for sure had helped me.
Thank's I'm happy that the video could help you :-).
@@mikeno62 I'm still waiting for the oportunity of when you show how to disassamble the Tamron 80-210/3.5-4.0 Adaptall-2. Your videos are of great value.
Thanks for helping me rescuing my new but rusty F2, I really appreciate it! Salute!
Hey Mikeno,
Thanks for your very helpful and informative tutorial about how to disassemble this camera! I am just fixing one of my own F2, and it helped a lot!
Please do not throw away such non-repairable cameras, as they are very valuable as donors, to get spareparts for another camera! I fixed one of my very beautiful Nikon F with a torn shutter curtain by taking the curtain out of another camera, that got into water and was full of rust - but fortunately, the titanium shutter curtains were completely intact!
I have two questions:
- Isn't it a good idea, to not drown the selftimer escapement completely into IPA, as the driver spring is probably also lubed with some thicker grease, that might get washed out? So, if you do not want to completely dissassemble the whole unit, I'd rather only clean the low torque / high speed gears and keep the spring box away from the alcohol...
- I'd love to learn a bit more about the adjustment options for the shorter exposure times... There are two concentric screws on top of the timing mechanism on the upper side of the camera... They are connected to excentric parts underneath the mounting plate, and I am pretty much confident, that these are the spots where you can adjust the other speeds... It would be great, to get info about which time to adjust where - and in which order... Until now, the only adjustments I did was the main springs, driving the curtains (first, I adjusted the second curtain spring so, that the slow escapement works fine, then I adjusted the first curtain for identical exceleration, resulting in even exposure from left to right @ short speeds.)
Thanks for all your great help, man!!!
Hey Mike i also had problem putting mirror box back in . I found if i locked up the mirror lever she just slid right in. Great video thankyou!
Thanks very much for all your valuable instructionals. In this this one, I was disappointed that you did not show us how to disassemble the re-wind mechanism, which is the very problem I'm having with an F2 I have. Trying to raise the spindle to allow me to insert a roll of film does not work: it will not raise either by pushing upward from inside the film chamber or by pulling up on the rewind knob. Any thoughts, Kenneth?
I look at the complexity of all the metal parts and now understand why these cost close to $1,000 back in the day. I put thousands of rolls through these ...with motor drives and they never failed. Never.
Too bad digital came along. :)
many Thanks for both videos, this was rescue my F2, still just un issue with the speed 1/4, it works, aftrer selecting it it works one time correcelly the it fire too fast !!
What I learned from this video is that if I ever get the notion to take apart my F2, I should quickly slap myself upside the head.
Hello.it would be great if you could show how to take of the rewind side top plate.
Great video, Thanks
Hi Sir! Can you do this for the Nikon F3 as well?
hello
awesome video btw
i have a stuck rear view finder release button on my F2. could you give some insight on how to make it release my view finder.. i fear it is jammed internally. the front release lever works just fine. thanks for any help
Great videos! I have the following problem with my f2. When I bought it, it was working, although 1s speed was really slow. But all other speeds looked fine. At some point, I decided to remove the bottom cover, but the screw with two holes is really really stuck. After forcing it a bit, the camera just became stuck. It wont' fire anymore. After I removed the mirror box, I was able to unstuck the curtain, but now the camera just fires normally at low speeds. Over 1/125, the shutter just fires all the same, and really really fast. Bulb too. Do you have any idea of where the problem is?
Hello there.... I was wondering wher you find bleprints and spare part lists an more... Mange tack!!
You can find a lot of repair info and service / repair manuals right here on Learn Camera Repair:
learncamerarepair.com/
Maybe you should hire a machine shop to build you that broken part and then the camera would be working again. Anything is possible.
I am curious, one of my F2a prisma lightmeters does not work correctly. At the contact points on top of the body i measure 2.76 volt and it is not consistent. I suspect a bad solder or so. The compartment is clean. The contact you activated with the film transport lever (on of function) is like new. But to reach the underside of the battery compartment you need to remove the mirror house?
With the F2, it is not uncommon, that corrosion appears at the screw, where the middle contact of the bat compartment is screwed to the plastic part of the housing. Also the plastic tends to crack, both resulting in bad contact to the wire, that is soldered to a seperate terminal, held by the same screw. I glued the plastic part in my F2 with superglue, and it seems to work (but I cannot tell, how long it wil last). For sure, the best option is to replace a broken compartment with a new one.
An, yes, you need to pull the mirrorbox to get access to the battery compartment.
@@salossi I did fix it already. I did take the body apart and the little brass contact on the battery compartment that is clamped on the power wire of the light meter contact was eaten all up by corrosion. I did replace it for a metal one and the meter was working perfect. Getting at the underside of the compartment was the hardest and removing the shutterhouse was needed. But beeing a great build camera it was a joy to work on.
Hi Mikeno a little question for you have you dismantle a DP-12 finder??? i don't found nothing about this thank' alot
Sorry for the late reply, I have not at the moment try to work with the DP-12 finder, but when it happens I will see what I can do.
HelloMikeno, please i need your support to reassemble a Nikon F3, the issue is that the film advance but the curtain does not move, i removed the speeds selector and the part located just under it who turns the mechanism that pulls the curtain, my problem now is how align the gears ans parts to reasemble correctelly the mechanisme
Thank you in advance
How to remove the bottom plate? :)
素晴らしい!
保存版にするよ!
looks like the F2 is easier to repair compared to the F
Yeah Richard, in some way it looks like the F2 is more easy to repair :-)