So happy this project is continuing. Again my heart goes out to Charles' family. Hopefully they will get some closure and peace when the car is done for them to enjoy.
We have frame extenders and a metal rear seat divider to the trunk for our 1968 Mercury Cougar. Once these are installed we will add a larger sway bar. Speaking with friends, they said the value of the frame extender was to prevent damage to the car's body with a larger sway bar. If you don't add a larger sway bar than stock, the frame extender is not needed. Sorry for the long two cents. Thanks for making the video.
I love these old cars and this is a cool project BUT in the recent past had a ‘68 Camaro and a ‘77 Trans Am. Both of those were project cars and much thought (AND money) was put into drivetrain and suspension. Both of those cars are gone and in their place is a 2020 Mustang GT. This car absolutely would run circles around those other 2 cars and it’s not even close. If you want a “super car” Mustang, go find a late model GT350R or GT500. You cannot build a car as good as what Ford can (nowadays) from the factory. I’m actually glad to see this build ditching the fender flaring and going back closer to stock. Keep up the good work!
Great work on the mini-tubs Barry! Appreciate you taking the time to show the frame extender mods that are needed. A rotisserie would make the frame extender install more pleasant. As always great content Barry,
Great work as always Barry, you are a master craftsman and welder. I agree with you 100 percent on installing sub frame connectors, I used Competition Engineering bolt on connectors on my former 1965 / 1966 Mustang Fastback, it does make a difference. I would also use 720lb front coil springs and 200lb rear leaf springs, a 1 inch front sway bar from Maier Racing in Hayward, California, and all Moog suspension and Koni shock absorbers, the Mustang will handle like a Shelby GT 500.
I'm glad to see the progress you're making. Great information on the exhaust reinforcements, i haven't ordered mine yet. I will be working on the deck filler tomorrow and making sure that the back glass fits for hopefully the last time. Thanks
Hi Barry, topic frame-rail connectors. What you have going on really won't do anything (or not much) for rotational rigidity. At most you will get a little fore and aft stiffness. This is where the roll bar is needed. The frame rail connectors, well, look very minimalist for the amount of time you'll be spending on them. I'm right here with my project and invaded the backseat floorspace similar to Detroit Speeds connectors. Hope for others doing similar stuff, (noting your restrictions) don't rely on frame rail connectors alone.
Regarding the exhaust hanger plate install for the rear seats, I would have welded in the existing hole on the new plate. Then did some small incremental cuts to make it fit then drilled out the hole where it sits. You cut out and did a lot of work so it would line up with that existing hole on the plate which seems like a lot of work or extra work unnecessarily. The outcome is still the same but with less work if you just feel the hole weld in the piece and cut out the new hole. P. S. buy a couple of grinders from harbor freight I think they're $30 bucks or $40 put different wheels on them a grinding wheel a cut off wheel etc that way you're not wasting time changing wheels just grab a different grinder
Great progress. I always feel like a slacker with my project after seeing how much progress you’ve made in such little time. It’s motivational for sure. In regards to the tubs…is the plan to go back in with leaf springs? If so, how wide of a tire will fit without rubbing the leafs?
being that this car will live in Florida, I think it would be a good decision to keep with the plan of putting air conditioning in the car. That engine is going to put out a lot of heat, and it will be very nice to have the passenger compartment be cool especially in Florida heat.
Looking real good Barry. Interesting sub-frame connectors, they provide maybe 1" more ground clearance than my design. What is the metal thickness of those connectors?
Very nice work, I'd be happy with that too👍👍 Didn't I hear you say you were going to put this on a rotisserie? IMO, I'd wait until you get it on the rotisserie, it will make things much easier to install the frame connectors. What brand of hole puncher is that? Is that also on your Amazon page??
@@JoDaddysGarage thank you! I don't know why I didn't see that before, but I've been stuck trying to use the harbor freight one and it doesn't work very well.
If my wife had a dream of a 75k kitchen. and we were 1/4 of the way thru it and she passed. I would finish the kitchen but I would economically scale down some items. I think that is what is happening here. He had a dream. she wants a driver.
I am glad Charles's wife decided to build the Cobra Jet out. It is really coming together. Great information on this video.👍👍👍👍👍
Glad to see this build continue after the loss of the owner.
So happy this project is continuing. Again my heart goes out to Charles' family. Hopefully they will get some closure and peace when the car is done for them to enjoy.
We have frame extenders and a metal rear seat divider to the trunk for our 1968 Mercury Cougar. Once these are installed we will add a larger sway bar. Speaking with friends, they said the value of the frame extender was to prevent damage to the car's body with a larger sway bar. If you don't add a larger sway bar than stock, the frame extender is not needed. Sorry for the long two cents. Thanks for making the video.
Please give my condolences to the owners wife. Please keep yourself healthy Barry. I think the decisions are a good call.
I love these old cars and this is a cool project BUT in the recent past had a ‘68 Camaro and a ‘77 Trans Am. Both of those were project cars and much thought (AND money) was put into drivetrain and suspension. Both of those cars are gone and in their place is a 2020 Mustang GT. This car absolutely would run circles around those other 2 cars and it’s not even close. If you want a “super car” Mustang, go find a late model GT350R or GT500. You cannot build a car as good as what Ford can (nowadays) from the factory. I’m actually glad to see this build ditching the fender flaring and going back closer to stock. Keep up the good work!
Awesome, we are back on. Looking forward to seeing more progress
Great work on the mini-tubs Barry! Appreciate you taking the time to show the frame extender mods that are needed. A rotisserie would make the frame extender install more pleasant. As always great content Barry,
I’m learning a lot about the many of the parts of Mustang
Great idea of a trailer work bench that can be moved if need be.
Great video! Finally got to see how the exhaust hanger supports go in.
Great work as always Barry, you are a master craftsman and welder. I agree with you 100 percent on installing sub frame connectors, I used Competition Engineering bolt on connectors on my former 1965 / 1966 Mustang Fastback, it does make a difference. I would also use 720lb front coil springs and 200lb rear leaf springs, a 1 inch front sway bar from Maier Racing in Hayward, California, and all Moog suspension and Koni shock absorbers, the Mustang will handle like a Shelby GT 500.
That car is going to be amazing.
I'm glad to see the progress you're making. Great information on the exhaust reinforcements, i haven't ordered mine yet. I will be working on the deck filler tomorrow and making sure that the back glass fits for hopefully the last time. Thanks
Still making good progress on it but still have a blate full looking forward to seeing you're next video thumbs up 👍
Great job as always Barry!!!👍👍
Looking great, enjoy watching this build. Working on my 69 too. Thanks.
I always learn things watching your videos
getting closer
Barry Charles knew you were the one to build this car. He's looking down as you continue, Tami knows it to. C-ya Mon nite T/B.😊
Glad to see perseverance. Looking nice.
Hi Barry, topic frame-rail connectors. What you have going on really won't do anything (or not much) for rotational rigidity. At most you will get a little fore and aft stiffness. This is where the roll bar is needed. The frame rail connectors, well, look very minimalist for the amount of time you'll be spending on them. I'm right here with my project and invaded the backseat floorspace similar to Detroit Speeds connectors. Hope for others doing similar stuff, (noting your restrictions) don't rely on frame rail connectors alone.
hi barry the car is going grate .👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😄😄
i really hope you get to finsh this car before the family pulls the plug and moves forward
it seems there is a good relationship with the owners family and that is ongoing. I don't suspect there will be any problems with this build.
Regarding the exhaust hanger plate install for the rear seats, I would have welded in the existing hole on the new plate. Then did some small incremental cuts to make it fit then drilled out the hole where it sits. You cut out and did a lot of work so it would line up with that existing hole on the plate which seems like a lot of work or extra work unnecessarily. The outcome is still the same but with less work if you just feel the hole weld in the piece and cut out the new hole.
P. S. buy a couple of grinders from harbor freight I think they're $30 bucks or $40 put different wheels on them a grinding wheel a cut off wheel etc that way you're not wasting time changing wheels just grab a different grinder
awesome work man!
I wooulda just drilled out the spot welds you did and slid it under, unless I am missing something. :)
Great progress. I always feel like a slacker with my project after seeing how much progress you’ve made in such little time. It’s motivational for sure. In regards to the tubs…is the plan to go back in with leaf springs? If so, how wide of a tire will fit without rubbing the leafs?
Leaf springs are going to be used. I do not know how wide we can go.
being that this car will live in Florida, I think it would be a good decision to keep with the plan of putting air conditioning in the car. That engine is going to put out a lot of heat, and it will be very nice to have the passenger compartment be cool especially in Florida heat.
Very good.
It's looking great. I was interested to know, will the stock interiors fit between the Detroit speed wheel wells?
We will find out
Looking real good Barry. Interesting sub-frame connectors, they provide maybe 1" more ground clearance than my design. What is the metal thickness of those connectors?
.085
@@JoDaddysGarage - Thanks Barry.
Very nice work, I'd be happy with that too👍👍
Didn't I hear you say you were going to put this on a rotisserie? IMO, I'd wait until you get it on the rotisserie, it will make things much easier to install the frame connectors. What brand of hole puncher is that? Is that also on your Amazon page??
The punch I'm using is no longer available, but I found what looks to be a better one. Also on my amazon page :amzn.to/3Gr90J3
Thanks Barry, yep, saw that one on Amazon but didn't see them on yours. ???
What's that blade you're using to cut the exhaust reinforcements? Doesn't look like a regular cut off disc.
I’ll have to check. Charles gave it to me.
Where'd you get that hole punch? I've looked all over for one like that!
This one is very similar if not better than the one I used: amzn.to/3Gr90J3
@@JoDaddysGarage thank you! I don't know why I didn't see that before, but I've been stuck trying to use the harbor freight one and it doesn't work very well.
How do the frame connectors fit on your car for comparison?
Haven’t tried that but I might.
What kind of cut off disc are you using? Where can I get one?
I just listed them on my amazon page.
Thanks, I just placed an order.@@JoDaddysGarage
It's sad his wife isn't continuing his dream.
But she is.
If my wife had a dream of a 75k kitchen. and we were 1/4 of the way thru it and she passed. I would finish the kitchen but I would economically scale down some items. I think that is what is happening here. He had a dream. she wants a driver.
But she isn't she is building a more or less stock car instead.@@JoDaddysGarage