I really dig those holders. If you use a stop block cut with a 45 , it will eliminate that buckling. Just take the offcut from cutting the miters and clamp it with the long edge against your Miter's fence. if the offcuts are small use one with a 90 on the other end and butt it up to any old piece of scrap wood and clamp that down.
Really like the coaster holder. I have built a few coasters, but struggle with the holder and how to make something that looks good. Just a tip as well, when using a router on square pieces like this, I would recommend doing your champher or roundover on the grain end first and then the sides. If you have some tear out on the endgrain, the missing chunk can be mitigated when you rout the sides. Yes it has happened to me on a couple of occassions. I was helping someone learning to use a router a couple months ago, and they didn't really understand what I was saying. They understood when the router tore a piece out of the side of the endgrain, and they were able to fix it by routing the sides.
Thanks! Yes, I’m aware of that tip, but have actually found it to often backfire on minimal chamfers/round overs. Sometimes the tear out from doing the end grain first is more significant than the small 1/8” round over on the sides can cover up, but for some reason doing the long grain first helps the end grain from blowing out when doing it second because of the transition already in place.
That buckling that happened with the mitered corners: If you install a zero-clearance sacrificial fence (just a piece of plywood or mdf), that will never happen.
Thanks. Yeah, I was being lazy-I keep telling myself I’m gonna do that, then get in a rush and skip that step (which is usually how stupid stuff happens). I have a new Incra miter sled that I’ll probably use for miter cuts on small pieces like that in the future, but didn’t have it set up yet so went ahead and took a chance on the miter saw.
Cam at Blacktail Studio has his “diamond hard” N3 nano kit for $180, that covers 75sqft. That might be a bit spendy for coasters, but it’s the best, IMO.
I’m familiar with it, but haven’t used it. Figured I’d give it a try on my next table build…so I could justify having some on hand and try it out with coasters!
Good question. Depends on the thickness of the material and coaster size, but just high enough so the bottom corners of the coasters don’t touch the surface the stand is resting on. I just used a coaster itself for reference and marked the line. Hope that makes sense.
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Excellent tutorial and a very nice design for the coaster n the holder. thanks for this video!
Thanks for watching!
I really dig those holders.
If you use a stop block cut with a 45 , it will eliminate that buckling. Just take the offcut from cutting the miters and clamp it with the long edge against your Miter's fence. if the offcuts are small use one with a 90 on the other end and butt it up to any old piece of scrap wood and clamp that down.
Thanks for the tip. I ended up making a zero clearance fence which eliminated the sketchiness on my subsequent coaster sets.
Nice video, I love small projects like this. They make great gifts for Christmas etc. Keep up the great work...
Exactly! Thanks!
That is a really cool coaster holder. And the coasters look awesome as well!
Thanks!
Great tip with the straw!
Looks really good. I especially like the coaster holder, I'm going to try that style. simple, modern, and clean looking. Thank you. Subscribed.
Glad you like it and thanks for subscribing!
Very nice!
Great video and content. Definitely subscribed to more
Thanks so much!
Really like the coaster holder. I have built a few coasters, but struggle with the holder and how to make something that looks good.
Just a tip as well, when using a router on square pieces like this, I would recommend doing your champher or roundover on the grain end first and then the sides. If you have some tear out on the endgrain, the missing chunk can be mitigated when you rout the sides. Yes it has happened to me on a couple of occassions. I was helping someone learning to use a router a couple months ago, and they didn't really understand what I was saying. They understood when the router tore a piece out of the side of the endgrain, and they were able to fix it by routing the sides.
Thanks! Yes, I’m aware of that tip, but have actually found it to often backfire on minimal chamfers/round overs. Sometimes the tear out from doing the end grain first is more significant than the small 1/8” round over on the sides can cover up, but for some reason doing the long grain first helps the end grain from blowing out when doing it second because of the transition already in place.
That buckling that happened with the mitered corners: If you install a zero-clearance sacrificial fence (just a piece of plywood or mdf), that will never happen.
Thanks. Yeah, I was being lazy-I keep telling myself I’m gonna do that, then get in a rush and skip that step (which is usually how stupid stuff happens). I have a new Incra miter sled that I’ll probably use for miter cuts on small pieces like that in the future, but didn’t have it set up yet so went ahead and took a chance on the miter saw.
Cam at Blacktail Studio has his “diamond hard” N3 nano kit for $180, that covers 75sqft. That might be a bit spendy for coasters, but it’s the best, IMO.
I’m familiar with it, but haven’t used it. Figured I’d give it a try on my next table build…so I could justify having some on hand and try it out with coasters!
Make a sacrificial fence for your miter saw for more safety
Made one right after this build for my next set. 😆
I want to see a video on your router table corner vac with acrylic top please
4 Easy Workbench Upgrades
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How high up did you come with the cross brace for the holder?
Good question. Depends on the thickness of the material and coaster size, but just high enough so the bottom corners of the coasters don’t touch the surface the stand is resting on. I just used a coaster itself for reference and marked the line. Hope that makes sense.
@@kspencer_handcrafted ok sounds good