Atorch DL24 electronic load upgrade
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- I upgraded the Atorch DL24 automatic load from 180W to 360W
I used the strong and silent air cooler NH-D15 , because the intention is to push the load up to 720W, and i need to use it in my small homelab, so quiet is better
I know for only 320w it is an overkill probably
UPDATE:
Dl24 load Upgrade to 600W in this video:
DL24 load upgrade 600W - Noctua NH-D15 Torture Test • Atorch DL24 electronic...
The transistor i used is the IXTK102N65X2
It is sufficent but not actially the best choice
I would now choose the IXFK360N10T
Or other in the selection table in the video
I will try also to double the current and reach 720W, in a second video
Probably by using 4 IRFP260M (infineon has 300w version - vishay 280W version) which are the most cost effective euro/watt
Thanks
Fabio
Musica: Play It Sam
Musicista: Philip E Morris
The weak link is the reverse protection diode in series with MOSFET drain to A+ connector. At 20A load the dual Shockley diode has 0.65v drop and dissipates 13 watts. It does not have the heat sinking to handle this for long period, relying solely on PCB heat sinking. It will help some if a small adhesive backed heat sink is is placed on PCB near diode and with fins height not to mechanically interfere with MOSFET heatsink above it. No concern if diode heatsink fins touches MOSFET heatsink fins as they are both common connection to MOSFET drain connection.
There is no need for insulators between PCB and power MOSFET. Front and backside of PCB in the power MOSFET area is common connection to MOSFET drain. Insulator pads just increases heat transfer resistance to heat sink.
Next weakest link is the two 1 watt 0.010 ohm shunt resistors. They are at their max power rating at 20 amps load.
The stock IRFP260 MOSFET is capable of handling 30 amp if sufficient heat sinking is provided, but reverse protection diode and shunt resistors will likely get damaged. If the MOSFET is changed to a higher amperage device with greater Qg input charge capacitance the LM321 op amp driving the MOSFET can become unstable.
Hi, all good points
But the diode and shunt resistor was designed to withstand that current, so i supposed it was correctly dimensioned. But you are right, they could be the weakest link. In fact in my other video, where upgraded to 600W i changed both of them and added a copper wire as heat sink. Therefore now I m using it daily at 20-30 A to test big battery packs for hours. About the stability, its reacting really slowly, and i didn t notice any instability behaviour. By the way , its unbelievable, they placed 1k resistor in series to the mosfets, i reduced if i recall correctly in some experiments
Oh my goodness, what a monster cooler =) Saluti dal vicino di stato.
Ciao, quale stato vicino? did you see the 600w test on the same heat sink that i recently uploaded: 50degree at 585W thats impressive!
Don't forget to upgrade the shunt resistors with higher value or you can solder more of them in parallel, otherwise you will blown your resistors, also you should upgrade your diode.
Or the best mod is using multiple mosfets to have best heat dissipation !
This mod will fail on long term usage.
Hi
Max Current remains the same, only voltage reading is halved. so no need to change shunt or diode for this mod. If uou check my 600W upgrade, there i changed also resistors and diode
I think a better approach to reverse voltage protection would be to include a 25-30 amp fuse in series with input and put the blocking diode reverse bias across the MOSFET drain. This should keep the reverse protection via the fuse while eliminating the heating created by blocking diode voltage drop.
It is a good idea
But still, like it is now , you are also using the diode to dissipate some power , which is the objective of the load.
But anyway good idea, it may reduce the minimum operating voltage of the load
@@MakerFabio
Diode would be normally reverse biased and off. Only when load battery put on reversed would diode conduct and fuse blows.
@@rcinfla9017 sure
Good night friend. Congratulations for your video...I've had this equipment for about 3 years to test the capacity of 18650 battery packs that I make...but this week I don't know if I neglected it, but the input of the power supply connector smoked and I immediately turned everything off ... I don't know what happened, if the alligator clip accidentally touched one another or if a drop of water from my hand that had just been washed fell on some component of this board that is all exposed. Everything is working (LCD panel, fan) no scorching marks on the back of the board, but when I put any power source in the input of the power supply, it makes a strange noise and it already starts to let out a little smoke and I immediately turn it off. Do you have any idea what I can do to fix this problem? Any tips or advice would be most welcome! I would not and do not think it is a case of discarding the equipment. Thank you very much!
Ciao Franco , do you speak italian also?
So, i would check for the big mosfet, or the big reverse protection diode, both on the test battery cables. You can check them with a multimeter, in diode position. See online how to test a mosfet and how to test a diode
please make a video about how to test a LIFO battery 100ah for RV
Orjinal mosfeti yerine ne taktınız
That heat sink is laughably big.
Why voltage calibration when is possible to modify the over power limit ? 🤔I tested and the over power can be increased to 999W. Or you prefer to mess up all the readings from display.
Hi , the old model does not allow to change the power limit.
Hi, I blew the original FET on my 180W four-wire DL24. I replaced it with the IXFK360N10T that you suggest here, and after this it worked. At least until I went up to 150W, and then something shorted internally in the load. Luckily the 52V battery I had attached had a 40A fuse, which blew.
Any idea what caused the internal short in the load and if it can be repaired?
Hi ,150w is not a lot of power for that mos
Maybe the thermal coupling was not good and so you destroyed the mos? Which heat sink do you have installed?
@@MakerFabio I don't think this is the case, as it is definitely thermally coupled than the original mos was. Thermal grease on bottom and top of the new mos, and the heatsink is the one that comes with the 180W version by default. With this and the original mos the load was easily eating up over 150 to 180W for hours on end.
I don't know much about electrical components, but was wondering if there can be some compatibility issue between the two mosfets? Also when the short happened, the shunt resistors melted their plastic packaging, but seem to still otherwise work.
@@anelinnonmaa i see
If now it is shorted i guess the only broken component is the mosfet, because there is nothing else able to sink lot of current in that board
I don t think there could be incompatibility because they are both NON logic level, and the driver is very slow.
If the battery you attached is strong, and you turned to ON the load , before connecting the battery wires, this may lead to an big inrush current and destroy the mosfet. Did it happen perhaps?
@@MakerFabio No, I stared out at 0,1A load (5W) and increased in 0,1 increments to 1A (50W). Then increases to 2 and 3 A where is shorted. Maybe I was unlucky and got a bad fet. I'll replace it with another since I ordered 3 and try again :) Thanks for the help! Also have another DL24P arriving in the mail soon luckily.
Hi, did you fix the problem ?? I have the same problem. Thanks
Que tal
Con este aparato puede ver en que estado se encuentra una batería 60v 20amp? Gracias
Hola, yes. It will tell the remaining amp hours and internal resistance
I like over kill upgrade 👍
Good day. I have exactly the same load at 180w. How did you unlock the power cap? I know that in the new version, with 4 connectors, it is possible to increase the power yourself to 1000w. But how can this be done on the old version? with 2 connectors. How did you turn off the 180w software limit?
I explained in the video that it is not possible to remove the power limit, the only trick is to cheat with the calibration, and have 1/2 voltage and 1/2 current reading. So the power can be 4 times higher
i realize it is kinda off topic but does anybody know of a good website to stream new tv shows online ?
@Raphael Dean flixportal =)
@Jack Justice thank you, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :D I really appreciate it !
@Raphael Dean Glad I could help :)
Hello
I upgraded/modified the IXFK170N20T mosfet. IXFK360N10T was not available in my area.
Unfortunately, I have a problem because the IXFK170N20T has already died and is short-circuiting. DL24 works properly up to 4.5-5A and 40V approx. 200Watt, above that it is turned off and it turns out that the mosfet is short-circuited :(.
Can you tell me if I chose something wrong?
Thank you in advance for your help
Regards
Hi, hard to say. It depends a lot also on the remaining parts on your setup, i used huge heat sink and super conductive paste and bigger mosfet.
What was the mosfet temp when it failed?
@@MakerFabio thanks for your response.
Just like you, I used oversized components :).
My cooling is Prolimatech Megahalems and a noctua 140mm fan. The paste is a special grizzly paste. The device indicates that the temperature at 200W is 38-40 degrees....
I sense some incompatibility here with this mosfet.
I added two more diodes because one was getting very hot. At 3 pcs the temperature is very low.
i added de 1250w mosfet and it burned the board the r010 smd blowed up
Hi, very strange because the current should remain the same. How much current were you driving? How much power? Which source was connected (e.g. battery?) if you give me some more info i can try to imagine what happened
Is there a schematic of the DL24P somewhere?, I blew up my DL24P. Have replaced the MOSFET already. Is that sufficient? Measures voltage again, but not ready to test it at anything higher than 3V, Like to know what I;m doing first.
I don t know, i didn t find any schematic, just guesses
I found that replacing the MOSFET isn't enough. It was working to test a single cell, but the unit short circuited again when I went to test 48V.,
Hello friend, my mosfet burned out. Can I use IRFP260N instead of IRFP264?
Hi please see the table at second 27. I don’t recall well what i calculated, but it looks you need 2 of them in parallel (for 360w) if you need only 180w it should be ok
I added the IXFK360N10T, but now the tester behaves like it is shorted. If I put the old MOSFET back on, it works again. Anyone experience this?
Maybe you destroyed it during some test
For instance if you set to on the load before applying the battery, then you connect the battery, you will destroy the mosfet
Which will often look as a short circuit.
@@MakerFabio after I posted this I checked the MOSFET and it failed closed. First time I've experienced a DOA like that
I always test on my bench power supply with current limited to 1 amp.
Thanks, Fabio!
@@monono954 i see . You did right by testing with a limited power supply, so it was really a dead on arrival. Have a nice dat
No extra wires from Vin resitors to the transistor? I doubt that trace is designed for so much power!
Hi
The current in this modification is not changed, so the traces and reverse polarity diode can remain the same
Only voltage reading is doubled
@@MakerFabio this thing has a 20A max load current. You cant test lower voltages at 360W because amps get too high. Would be nice if we could upgrade amps also.
@@no-eb2xx i did it
Check my channel other video to 600w
Nice upgrade video :D, I am looking to buy a similar cheaper CC load but my issue is that I want to also log these readings onto my laptop, is there a way to do it ? I have seen that it comes with PC software. Can you confirm if it has the option to log and see values in some sort of CSV, excel files :)
Also, can it be programmed by the host so that I can tell it when to start discharging or so. if No, then do you know any other electronic cheaper CC load that can do a similar job but also can log data and is programmable.
thanks alot , have a nice day
Hi
I’m not sure, mine has a bluetooth module which can for sure control, not sure about the log. I can not check right now. Maybe you can find the manual online
Hi, I've managed to log data from this to a .csv file. If you manage to install the chinese pc software from their mediafire link (i had to switch pc locale to china in order to get it to work), then you can export to csv in that program.
@@anelinnonmaa thanks for your reply , can I know more details on it :)
. how can I reach out to you ? email ?
@@NawtieBoy96 Yeah feel free to email me at ane.linnonmaa(at)gmail.com. I can try to see if I can find the program for you tomorrow.
@@anelinnonmaa check inbox , thanks
Hello very nice what you doing.. I have this device with 4 connectors and its working very good in the past. But now I have a problem, because the voltage measure doesn't work now. All I tried it stays on 0 Volt. Sometimes I switched on the device, the voltage jump to 0,05v and then slowly decrease to 0v and this without connecting to the battery I would testing.
Okay I know it's not your theme but maybe you can help me because I see you are a very good electrician guy..
Thanks and big greetings from Stephan Bendig..
Hi stephan, hard to say, not knowing the 4 terminal load schematic. Maybe you inverted the sensing wire polarity , opposite to the power wires and something got broken?
Can you set up as 2 wire only on the menu? Maybe it is working as 2 wired only. Another idea is trying to calibrate again the reading as i m doing in the video, but if you read close to 0 i fear it will not accept the calibration
Is the internal temperature displayed on the screen after upgrading the MOSFET?
Hi
The sensor is the original one, placed on the pcb close to the mosfet case
@@MakerFabio thank you for quick reply. I mistakenly fused/destroyed the original MOSFET and I need to change it to fix the board.
Ok, take the one i used , much more powerful
Hello. Can you tell me why the irf260 is 180w and the mosfet you replaced is 360w, how to calculate it?
Hi, this depend by MOSFET max power rating, max TJ and thermal resistance
of the MOSFET package . And also by temp at 350w reached by the new heat sink. Too long and complicated to explain in messages, sorry
I really like your video, it makes me very curious about how to calculate the capacity of a mosfet that can be used sustainably. I hope you take some time to teach me how to calculate it. I sincerely thank you
@@HieuLe-nr6em your is actually a good question. I will try to find the time and make a short video explaining how to calculate the “real” maximum power you can dissipate on a MOS
@@MakerFabioThank you very much, I'm looking forward to it, wish you good health.
Do you think I could use this to put a solar panel under a load to test it's actual power output?
Mmm, best eay to test a panel in my opinion would be a constant voltage load
Bur the constant voltage is quite terrible on this load.
If you have the load give it a try
If you have to buy , not sure is the right one
@@MakerFabio Thanks, I was going to buy one to test my batteries, so I figured I might be able to use it for the solar panels. I just want to compare a good one to a possibly bad panel.
@@cs-xd9gy in this case it could possibly work. If constant voltage is not really working well, you can use constant current and increasing till it drops in voltage. But actually maybe you can just use a multimeter and compare the open load voltage and the short circuit current? Not sure, I have just small ecperience with solar panels
@@MakerFabio I was hoping to be able to place a load on the panel to make sure the current does not drop off. I also wanted to it cheaply;)
Que socket usas en el disipador? Intel o AMD?
Mmm
Don t know actually
In the noctua kit there was adapter for many sockets, i used the one fitting, but i don t know which one it is
Intel lga 1200
Es necesario calibrar a la mitad? Ay alguna diferencia al modificarlo en la configuración?
Hi sorry i m from Iraly i don t speak Spanish that well, i understand only a minimum
Can I use IXFK250N10P?
Hi
I don t recall anymore , and don t want to go again in the calculations, maybe is it visible by zooming in the excel?
Sorry for this
@@MakerFabio hello, thanks, I found that this is an analogue of your transistor
areoooooo parla italiano
Too complex and expensive, just buy 2 of them and put them in parrallel.
Ehehe
Probably right
But then you have to bother sync the 2 requests
Hi Sir,
What is the max constant current load that can be set? Is there way to do 50A CC load? Power will be max 200W as the voltage is low.
Thanks
Hi sorry for the super late reply. To increase the current you need to change the shunt resitors and diode. Please see my other video converting the load to 600W, there is doubled the current capability