Swell Chase: Todos Santos 1/11/2021
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- Опубликовано: 24 янв 2021
- Two weeks back (it’s all a blur now), in between XXL Maverick’s and XXL Hawaii, Todos Santos seduced a handful of the big-wave elite - including Jamie Mitchell, Jojo Roper, Greg Long, Paige Alms and more -- to tackle the biggest, cleanest and best Killers seen in years. We talked to 'em about it. Hit the link for the full photo and video feature:
www.surfline.com/surf-news/wa...
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I was surfing the K38 area that day. It was really good - maybe 10-12' faces - as the tide dropped out during the afternoon.
I believe this particular swell was 295, running around 14-15 seconds. On other occasions, when the period has been around 18-20 seconds (same size/direction), the region can be oddly spotty and smaller, leading to a lot of frustration and WTF moments.
Of course, that stretch of coast faces SW, but I believe the differences are mostly influenced by the underwater ridge running from Calafia to Mirador. (Check it out on G-Earth or similar.)
My working theory is that when NW periods are above 18 seconds, the swell is partially blocked and then refracts off of this ridge, re-combining with the main swell right around where Todos is located. Hence, the virtual doubling in size that is common there; but in this case you can sense the deflation.
That's because at 14-15 seconds, the swell was able to clear the ridgeline, and wrap into the K38 area. While it created great conditions for us, it seems like it basically "starved" Todos of its extra dose of combo swell.
I'd be curious to hear your take on this.
Dude im super interested in learning more about this, that all sounds like it could be very solid and make ALOT of sense for why the beaches near la bufadora dont get big on long period swells, that deep water energy gets refracted in the shallowness of the bay, but short period swells(like from this big ass storm happening right now) actually form the biggest waves on these beaches, which is probably from them being locally produced and not having much deep water energy
I live an hour below k38, we should surf sometime man, id love to hear more of your thoughts on stuff like that
@@gavinchildress2048 Theres a guy from Ensenada who drives up when Ms and SM aren't happening.
Its pretty funny because sometimes the bahia de descansado crew is heading down his way.
My MO is to stay put and just play the tides. I heard there were 35+ watching salsi in a funk last week wondering where the swell was.
You either work for Surfline or you really need to.
@@rickeykoga2312 lulz. Years ago a friend of mine looked out at malibu on an overhyped, crappy super crowded day and coined the term "quitting day"
Was thinking about this spot when all the west coast big wave breaks were going off! Thanks for sharing!
20 yrs since I've heard that name..Todos Santos. OG
along with the Ghost Tree...
I surfed there twice in the early 90s. 2 things I remember is it was the coldest water I had ever been in. I wore a spring under a full. 2nd the reef is shallow and damn near exposed at low tide. Not quite that big obviously but about 10 to 12 was plenty scary.
I rode killers in 1988 at 20+..water temp 53.. by myself ..watched a great white chomp a seal in half about 15 feet away from me.. it was a very long paddle back to my boat.. I never went back..
Big drop, shoulder, like mavericks and Waimea, peahi, now there's a rippable wave, some pretty nice barrels at Himalayas last week too.
Got to paddle out while the getting's are good! Waiting too long & U get slim pickings! Thankx Surfline GJK ↑ TGW! 🌊🌊🌊🤣
That's a ton of boat gas/diesel to get down to Todos Santos from San Diego
TOTALLY!!
that's a 3 hr. Drive from the border..sheesh!
@@SDPBALLCOACH 1100 miles from San Diego by freeway, pretty much a 24 hour schlep
@@omarks
Yeah, I don't think it's that far ( I'll double check) I drove it to go fishing one time..
It's a long trip though..
@Lawrence Anderson You're right I was assuming big winter swells = Todos Santos on the pacific tip of Baja, I know that area and coastline well, but have never been to Las Islas de Todos Santos....
@@omarks
Lawrence n Oliver.
You're soooooooo right.
I totally forgot about that and I used to live/work in Cabo..
Good eye...
i remember back in the 80s working at Oceanworks in Santa Ana these guys from The Surf Club in San Diego would come with these 9'0s , 10'0s blanks for us to glass on a pretty regular basis ,, we were like WTF ? then J.K. finally enlightened us ,, that was the start of many trips ,, some fun ones and some scary ones but always a adventure back then ,,
also a great left summertime south swell wave ,,,, if you now where to look its a real Hammer
Jamie, what a beast. He should've gone to HI for this swell tho... West coast didn't get anything compared to Hawaii nei
I have lived and surfed on Maui, Kauai, Santa Cruz and San Diego. Killers was the only place I have surfed that I thought I was going to die. I got caught inside on an 8 wave set on a small day compared to this.
What happened?
It went from empty and barreling to mushy and crowded.
it seems like they waited too long to paddle out and it got onshore
Wind probably changed once the air/land warmed up
There’s this crazy thing called wind!! And tide!!! Fun stuff look it up
@@colinsturgell683
Mommy still packing your lunch for you when you take the bus on the weekend?
🖕😂
There's some pretty decent fishing in that area when it's glass flat.
From shore it's only about 30 min. To that spot.
They should make a Flowrider that tall lol
Amazing music. What band is it?
Where is this? Is it Todos Santos Baja California, Mexico, or is it the bay of Todos Santos near Ensenada, Mexico??
Ensenada
If you are disappointed with that... you are spoiled.
The music is amazing. What is the band/name of song?
5:02 didn't look like sheet glass
Nice waves
Yeah Jojo, SD representing.
I know Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a way to get back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid forgot the password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Ulises Josiah Instablaster :)
@Cody Dylan thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Cody Dylan It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my account!
@Ulises Josiah No problem :D
How far south of San Diegi is this. There is a Todos Santos near Ensenada and another near Cabo. Where is the surf spot.
This one is in Baja
I wonder how difficult it is to arrange the permits required to embark on a trip like this. Do boats coming back from Mexico ever get hassled by the coast guard?
It’s been years but we paid a guy in Ensenada harbor with a panga $15 each to take us out and back.
The 24 fps with no nd filter was really annoying. Insane waves though cheers.
Everything was cinematic...except the actual video footage
@@rickeykoga2312 exactly.
Why don’t you hear much about Todos Santos anymore?
Greg Long once surfed in my state. I bet you can't guess what state that is!
@ok Wrong. Minnesota on Lake Superior.
And? Everything has a camera on it these days? A little music. You guys are so cool
What else would you like to fucking whine about?
Sik
Solid crew...I'm in next run...especially if the boys/girls are saying smaller than expected 😉
I surf and live there and never visited the island
These aussies are good lads.
Waves at 2:22
Soggiest music I ever heard in my life
Not that big? Why all the big wave paraphernalia? My 6'4 would be fine.
You weren't out there, so shut the fuck up.
Big waves like that are boring. it's just a drop and...nothing. The last big session at outer reef Oahu Was SOO much better than this.
stealing content?
Todos Santos translates to "The Whole Santos" in my head every time. Then I think of Santa Clause. Then I think of multiple Santas. Smh. EVERYTIME.
Uhhh,
Translates to, "All Saints" cowboy.
@@SDPBALLCOACH thanks Kevin Bacon
Mignon.
to be honest, after the footage ive seen coming from outer reefs Hawaii and even mavericks, this was kind of underwhelming
In God's Hands
Stoked /Skunked
👇. 👇
average....
bad editing not a single complete ride to be seen
Honestly though! - how do you make an edit and not include any full rides??? Especially coming from surfline...
I think that's the problem with a lot of big wave spots. It seems to be only a drop, and then the shoulder mushes and doesn't even peel.
@@sleepinglion1192 Yeah very true. The thing is that people enjoy watching the whole ride including the jostling in the lineup, the paddling, the drop and pop up , the ride, and kick out. Why not show everything? That’s like writing a school paper and deciding to scrap the entire introduction and conclusion before hitting that send button 🤷♂️ Less is not always more.
@@natebattista3552 I agree. I want to see the paddle out. The boat ride out... whatever! The whole picture will show how gnarly it is because it's not 20ft and glassy ever. I want to see some of the raw roughness of the ocean on these days since I'll never have the guts to go myself!
@@nickardecky7404 Agree on both you guys, want to see the whole show!
Bitchin..!!!
Garbage wave, drop in and rides over.