Customer bought a HYBRID...and it Can't MOVE! (Part 1)
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2022
- This 2017 Toyota Camry Hybrid was purchased at an auction... and it's DEAD.
"CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM" is displayed on the dash, and we can't talk to the Engine Control Module with the scanner.
An obscure code "P0ADC Hybrid Battery Positive Contactor Control Circuit High" is set in the Hybrid Control Module.
Get out your notebooks and wiring diagrams...let's dive in to the wonderful world of HYBRIDS :)
THINK TOOL PROS:
www.amazon.com/dp/B08XXWHQVJ?...
ASTRO AI DVOM:
www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDBW1PT?...
AMAZING TEST LIGHT:
www.amazon.com/dp/B000M5ZWBA?...
Enjoy!
Ivan 
Авто/Мото
Поздравляю, Иван! Вот и до тебя добралась "цивилизация":)))))
Your content is so damn good and it also makes me realize how unprepared our current mechanics probably are for all of these electric and hybrid vehicles. Love to see you start doing a ton of these on how to troubleshoot the entire electric / hybrid range of cars like Tesla's and the Camry you're doing here. Rock on car genius
Yeah.. The consequences are great too --- because these high voltage systems can definitely kill you. You can't just probe your way through these things so blindly on the high voltage side of things; you have to know what you're doing, and where the danger is.
@@calholli Luckily the colour coding gives it away.
@@calholli absolutely. People should only do these tasks safely with the knowledge of what they're doing
You get service information from the dealership. Toyota allows anyone to get data online.
Can’t say other brands are the same
Hi Ivan, advice from a guy that worked for 45 years in the X-ray repair business. The high voltage battery bank in Hybrid and EV cars is a real danger to keep forever in mind. Back in the 90s I installed and serviced a line of machines that used a battery bank that was around 370 volts. The locations of the batteries were on the bottom rack of the machine and very hard to reach. The connection link to each battery bank used a bolt on a lug that a 4m Allen wrench fit. I had the wrench wrapped with electrical tape except on the ends that fit into the cap head bolt. Some how when removing the bolt an open end of the wrench touched another part of the battery pack link bars. Much of the wrench melted in a flash of sparks and molten metal, with the sound of a 12 gauge going off next to my head. I had the battery bank disconnected from ground and the circuit broken at the mid point. Point is never underestimate the power that is in the battery pack.
Impressive work Ivan, I`m lost on newer cars, so I will just drive my 91 Silverado till the wheels fall off. Thanks for the lessons. Much respect from this old man.
Oh boy a hybrid. Can hardly wait to see what happens. Here I thought you were gonna find the green crusties.
You are very easy to learn from. If you ever get tired of doing what you do, I'm sure any number of trade schools would consider themselves lucky to add you to their staff. Usher in a whole new generation of competent mechanic/technician !
Week long seminar on the farm 10-20 guys teach basic diagnosis $300 a piece $$$$
I have seen auction sabotaged personally at a shop I used to work at, we had a used car dealer bring use auction cars and there would be things unplugged like injectors etc. so I bet this was on purpose, because people are scared of bidding high on a non running hybrid. The fuse being pulled is prime suspect number 1. People can drive the cars at auction unattended, so I bet this was done there. I bet the owner got a hell of a deal.
Another good video IVAN,I helped a neighbor change a motor mount on his prious along with a dr side axle.He did not have a repair manual.So after telling him to try and get one,i did some on line research.There are safety protocols that need to be followed,and while looking at his car i saw all kinds of warning stickers.I used to wrench long ago,and learned early on read directions 1st ,then work.haha to me reading that is fun not a chore. when i read 270 volts DISCONNECT BEFORE entering system,ok i pay attention...i Found out the right way to {PULL the plug as it were on his main battery.IVAN,there are guys out there like me that still enjoys repairing there own stuff ,whether its cars ,motors lawn mowers etc.GUYS get a book!!! I told him after we fixed his car ,i wouldn't be able to help anymore in the future unless i saw A BOOK IN HIS HAND FIRST>haha,I know how to disarm a landmine,but i didn't learn on the JOB or BY TRIAL and error.Thanks for making these vids IVAN.Most cars aren't designed badly,if you learn how to properly repair with a MANUAL or wiring diagrams.
Because it's an auction car, it seems like these 'issues' were caused on purpose. Good job on the diagnosis.
Agreed however this hybrid battery is usually buried under behind the rear seat back and panels in the trunk so it would take some time & tools to get at it. On the other hand I can imagine a skilled Toyota tech having the knowledge and skill getting in their knowing exactly how to disable it in a spot extremely difficult to find. :)
Nice Ivan
Direct and straight up good teaching.
Thanks Matthew!
Surprised the comments aren’t full of people yelling that your multimeter isn’t “Hybrid” safe 😂😂😂. Great video and explanation
The "new age Ivan"! Alright! Getting off to a good start. Looks like you are right on target with this diagnosis. Be careful with the big hybrid battery. LOL
That was an impressive diagnostic!! Once you found the culprit, my best bet is that a careless reinsertion of the plug sent that pin in (probably slightly bent and pushed in instead of mating). I've seen that happen in "similarish" plugs and, sometimes, it's possible to push that pin back in place, but it needs to be well glued inside, to avoid repeating the problem later on.
Was a problem on old computers with serial ports. Was easy to bend pins when plugging in a cable or the ribbon cable going from the motherboard to other hardware.
You are probably correct but it doesn't answer the question of why the connector was removed to begin with. We will see in part 2 :) but I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if replacing the component with the broken connector merely gets the car back to the original problem that was being troubleshot to start with. While it's not impossible, I find it difficult to believe that the pin spontaneously ejected itself through the male half of the connector never to be seen again without having been messed with to begin with, so why was it messed with?
That's exactly what I would have tried to do. A no-parts repair!
@@mikefoehr235 Yep. Seen that too :-)
@@ScottDLR Yeah! I was hoping for it :-)
Great job, working on hybrids is no joke. Takes some good/ great skills like yours!
DAMN that was an AMAZING DIAG. FREAKIN MISSING MALE PIN, UNREAL FIND.
Ivan, you did it again! I am sure you are aware of the tremendous amount of current that these battery packs store. During my AF days, we were required to remove all jewelry watches and secure our dog tags before working on electronics. The penalty was either death or losing a stripe. Anyway, we have all arced a screwdriver working on regular systems just imagine what these electric vehicles can do.
Diagnosed Dan will be my next port of call, uve explained how roughly the circuit works but my god plz don't mess with hybrid batteries coz end of the day your gunna die if you start poking about you must stress that because a test light will not fix a hybrid systems on most cases
Love your style, taking us along through your diagnosis’s technique
Your good
Messing anything around this box without the HV battery disconnected (at least by the safety manual disconnect link electrically in the middle of the battery chain) is asking for big troubles, mainly when integrity of some of the relay is a question. With the HV present, you not only are risking electric shock or a short circuit arc (that is no joke with anything beyond 24V), but by "testing" the relays in such way, mainly when the negative could be permanently ON means you send very high charging current spikes into the capacitors in the traction inverter module (mounted along the motor-generator transmission assembly). The reason why there are 3 (and not just 2) contactors is one connecting the traction battery negative to the inverter, second connecting the positive via a resistor to precharge the capacitors with limited current and the 3'rd one connecting the positive "hard" after the capacitor is precharged to allow the main current to flow. With this experimenting you did and with the negative contactor permanently ON (it was clicking when you disconnected/connected the small connector), switching the direct positive contactor means you were connecting the capacitors without the proper precharge sequence. That caused at least heavy sparking on the contactor and quite a stress for the capacitors.
Yes, High voltage DC is no joke. There's a good reason for all of the safety interlocks. These batteries can dump an insane amount of power into whatever comes in electricity's way...
Confusing why people don’t make the HV system “safe” before working near it. I personally don’t risk it. I know they’ve made it incredibly difficult to actually electrocute yourself with all the interlocks & ground protections, but it was also “impossible” for the Titanic to sink and look how that went 😂
Man, that was simply amazing! A missing pin! Talk about a "booby trap"! I can't wait to see what else you find!
If that missing pin is in the connector block its been pushed back by someone either testing or not placing the white harness connector in properly. Only one way to find out Ivan,,,,so go for it.
Awesome easy checks with the test lamp as usual. Excited to see what happened or why the box has been tampered with!
Eagerly waiting for part2
Nice process that lead you in the right direction.
I was on the edge of my seat for this one! Awesome work Ivan!!
Wow, that's scary working on HV power! I wormy touch hybrid lol. But great diagnosis. That's great to see how to check for powers and grounds. Awesome video!
I just diagnosed one today with a refrigerant leak in the evaporator. Thank you PHAD
Ivan, can't wait to hear this car run. Maybe in Part 2? Thanks for Sharing!
Great diag! Good find for sure!!
I have replaced a Hybrid battery before and there should be a main disconnect before you even do that!! All the best from Canada
Good diag and showing how the computer sends a bias voltage to check the integrity of the curicit. I bet some people wouldn't of known why that voltage was there.
Very nice explanation
Great video Ivan .
You know what Eric says not all cars at the auction are bad but all bad cars are at the auction
You are really impressive Ivan!!
wow...nice work ivan
Ivan Du bist sehr gut am diagnosis
Thought for sure you were gonna dig inside and find that rascal.... Safely 😉
Thanks Ivan!
Be careful with the high voltage my friend. We haven't gotten together for our adult beverages.
Seems like the Hybrids are finally getting old enough to need guys like Ivan, Chris Fix, and ScannerDanner. I love this hybrid content because it’s new material. Awesome job, Ivan! I wonder if the pin is just pushed in or was broken off.
Most dissapeare from dutch roads and are not sold. to have a fake high 2nd hand price by fake shortage or so no one knows how bad they are.
When I look at 11:29 it more looks like the pin isn't there at all, which to me is a bit strange.
Opening the device might reveal more.
I'll send it to Chris Fix to polish up the headlights :))
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics 😆😆😆
You are amazingly brillant with wirering problems !
good work good luck brother
Great video. Really interesting find, I wonder if that connector is being stressed and the pin broke off
It's an auction mystery haha
You should get a healthy percentage of the proceeds from all these auctions cars you resurrect!
Your the man, I would love a Prius but it worries me if it went wrong who could fix it. I have Nissan leaf and it's same, wish you were closer :)
Ivan on a different note. I want to thank you for turning me on to deoxin. I had a problem with a turn signal on my boat trailer checked all the wires did everything I could think of and still wouldn't work. sprayed a little deoxin in socket and then moved the plug in and out a couple of times and what do you know, everything started worked again. Thanks again for the tip.
Conspiracy theorists would say that some mechanic wanted to kill this car off and knew that that one pin would do it so he just broke it off with some needle nose pliers. There's got to be a story behind it but who knows, the shadow knows
Where is Lamont Cranston when you need him?
Ain't a conspiracy if it's true
your diag's are great Ivan, I'm hoping when start next you'll be wearing Eye protection.
Pushed pin, bad keeper. I've spent 40 years plus as a electronic tech. and it amazes me how much of your troubleshooting is basically the same as a electronic tech would do.
I have a feeling that the fuse and missing pin are the tip of the iceberg becauyse you wouldn't need a part 2 in order to just replace that part, right? ;)
These inputs are intended to check if the relays are not mechanically stuck, to prevent the battery or power electronics from getting shorted and the battery catching fire due to overcurrent or overcharging. The contacts are usually normally closed, meaning they open when the relays engage.
Also, I *do* hope you pulled the battery main fuse before doing these tests. If the SMRB (B+) was in fact stuck and you manually energize one of the negative relays, all of the power electronics would become hot unless the battery was disconnected first. There should be a bright red disconnect tab on the battery which pulls the fuse, it's supposed to be easily accessible for firemen in an emergency.
No the load side of the relay are most definitely NOT normally closed...see diagram!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics The load side is not but there is (or should be) an additional set of contacts that is NC and is intended to check the condition of the load side contacts. Both sets of contacts are mechanically connected.
When the load side contacts are welded together, the detection contact will remain open, which signals the ECU that the relay is defective. It's an NC contact so a faulty wire will also trigger a defective relay fault.
If there only one set and it's NO, that means that the relay is only a helper contact for the bigger relay that switches the battery HV on the load side. The 12V and 300V circuits should be completely separated and insulated from each other.
That was so short but I hope the next part will be uploaded by tomorrow 🙏
Very cool!!
Sweet diag Ivan. Seems like someone sabatoged the car...
Was the pin stuck in the connector?
I have yet to work on any hybrids or EV's. I figure about 10 years before I start seeing those. Not real popular around where I live. Nice find! That was odd! Either someone got rough with the plug, or Toyota is joining the rest of manufacturing in cutting corners on metal quality. My bet is the latter. 😉 You & Amanda have a great Independence Day! 🇺🇸
LOL Nice Find
That's the one thing I don't like about electric cars and I didn't know hybrids have it aswell they just cut off your ability to push the car they just put into park just so annoying imagine that happening on the main road It must be fair terrifying.
Maybe the pin wasn't fully pushed in from the factory and it backed out over time. The fix could be as easy as pushing it back in. Assuming noone was in there before, then you can't know what happened.
In germany you have put up a safety perimiter with chains and or cones and put a shieldup before you open it up.😁
I would be curious if when you had it unplugs if you were getting voltage on the other wires. I would think you would, if you said there was a small "sense" current going through. Nice troubleshooting though!
So many questions about this auction car! Why is that pin missing? That is my biggest Q. On to part II for the fix…
On to part 2.
Wonder what the heck happened to that pin????
Thanks. Your experience here has probably convinced me just to give my car to someone I don't like.
I have a erratic otherwise very well maintained 08 HHy. Sometimes it operates correctly, sometimes it codes. Died completely the other day. Then after disconnecting the battery terminal and recharging by running the motor in drive against the brake it started to operate correctly again. We're on the second rebuilt replacement traction battery.
Freaking thing look so complicated that people like myself simply shouldnt own them.
I can tow mine for $250 to a confused Toyota hybrid tech and spend maybe another $500 to $1,000 diagnosing things. This would be fine if I thought it solved problem for a while. But I honestly think they are as confused about this kind of technology as you are.
I should have brought an ice V6.
You and DiagnoseDan are kings. Be careful
impressive work well done Mate . what if you stuffing short needle inside and connect the connector . do you think will work , just wandering
Still waiting for you to help me figure out my Chevy Volt problems!
Hey Mike! I'm guessing that the problem is GM + Hybrid? 😅 You should bring it over sometime!
I remember several years ago when I replaced some faulty cells in a HV Battery I got burned on the 'safety quick disconnect' it disabled the entire vehicle because the battery sense wire pins in the top of the connector pushed out the back of the plug when I 'activated' the system, man that was fun trying to find out why it was dead! 😅
I have a 2007 Camry hybrid, the emergency yellow circuit breaker switch is poor design causing the switch not making proper connection and hybrid won’t start. When I bough a refurbished battery the people that sold the battery installed that emergency orange switch wrong and cause no start until I checked that orange switch it was installed backward. Check the emergency orange breaker switch, make sure it makes a good connection. Because there are 2 tiny hole connection on the orange switch must sit into the battery connector properly.
Did you try any other scan tools on this system to see how they perform in comparison to the thinktool?
Where did it go?? 🤷♂️ Nice one, Ivan. I was screaming the contactor has an open coil, but yeah, missing pin will do it too. 👍
If and when "right to repair" legislation passes, I want to see you work your magic on a Tesla. To see your range of diagnostic and repair skills is so fascinating and inspiring.
It won't pass if Apple, of all companies, gets their way. Government is bought and paid for by high tech.
+1 for a teardown of the block after removed from the car. I'd try to remove it from the car and then replace the pin. Wonder if it's possible?
part 2 please . plusivo digital clamp meter have you or your viewers every tried one ?????
That’s crazy
You said that it was obvious that someone was in there.. I wonder if they had that unplugged and simply pushed the pin inside, as they tried to force it to plug back in?? kinda strange. (unless the pin is simply broken off).. I would be tempted to look for videos of people pulling the cover off and see what I was up against.. I definitely wouldn't want to pull the cover on a high voltage system blindly. Maybe that pin and wire are just laying inside there and need to be pushed back through the hole-- that simple.. (maybe. possibly. lol)....
I got one for You Ivan, unfortunately i am doing it..
E450 6.0 diesel conversion to casino shuttle bus. Rectifier and inverter burnt up pretty sure.. I took it all out but cannot figure out how they wired the generator ( alt). I got a -12 on a feed? Its 1 gauge and was going to rectifier. Any ideas? I have the eldorado conversion requirements but not the actual build.
Anyway, you fixed another!
How does that even happened Toyota have very good pins
These Hybrid and EV vehicles in time to come are going to create way more and very expensive problems, and perhaps very dangerous situations on the high voltage side.
What the heck!? Seems like maybe someone swapped the relay box with a Prius unit. I would run the part numbers on it an see what comes up, maybe take a quick peek at a 2017 Prius wriring diagram relay an see if the that pin is still there. I have a hard time believing the pin just broke.
Looking forward to part 2 hurry up man. Lmao
Is this the pre-independence day special?? lol
If I didn't read.
Could i just check all fuses,
I've seen crap like this at the auctions before some people will sabotage cars to get them cheap. That car may have had nothing wrong with it when it first arrived at the auction
How odd that a pin is missing but no sign of corrosion or a mullered plug.
I bet it still didn't move after the pin problem was fixed lol, never that easy :-D
You like a head scratcher,lol
Auction car!!!
Fire the green crusties cannon!
Almost got it
But alas a missing pin.
Ivan for President!!!
Viva la Russian repair
Cool, now where's part 2?!
I can see the news headlines already in the next 20 years.
"Man electrocuted while working on his car."
"Battery catches fire while DIY owner works on vehicle. House burns down. Dogs okay. Grandma dead."
"Mechanic who can't remember what he had for lunch yesterday, while suffering from brain fog with long Covid, causes battery explosion in service bay."
"Mechanics on strike over hard to read wiring diagrams."
"Mechanics on strike, cars too complicated to repair."
"Mechanic shortage causing millions of electric vehicle owners to abandon them on the roadside."
Couldn't you poke in to where the pin was and try to make contact ?
Hello teacher
Is Eric O right?
Not all auction cars are bad but all bad cars end up at the auction!
that was fiddled with and the fuse was missing. I suspect it's reposessed and the previous owner expected that would happen and sabotaged the car.
I get a feeling that's exactly what happened. At first I thought the missing fuse could have come from another shop because of a failed diagnosis. But a missing pin? I have seen pins pushed in from a connector, but usually on aftermarket junk with poor pin to body fitment. On OEMs, I've seen it, but very rarely.
Interesting theory
I get the feeling that's total projection on your part...
@@buckhorncortez Yeah..... The fuse just got out of the fuse box on it's own and the pin, after a 5 year service, just decided it was shy and pulled away....lol
some one sabotaged that car very smart like taking the rotor on a old car trick
I'll bet that someone "Diagnose Dan" would have a cow if they saw you near a hybrid battery without PPE.
What a great this car is, if that's all it needs with fuel prices so high, someone is getting a Toyota hybrid
"With fuel prices so high", yet all refineries running flat out plus imports not meeting the demand, you have the exact definition of "rationing by price".
Sabotaged at auction site to get a better price?
Someone took the fuse out on purpose so someone couldn't read the data?
Not all auction cars are bad but all bad cars are at auctions.
Someone botched the replacement of the hybrid battery pack.