When you took the clutch apart I noticed the outer friction disk was in the wrong slot. You did correct that. Maybe you should have mentioned that. As far as the Clutch Mod. I prefer the Mod you used. Or the one piece Mod. I'm sure some will disagree. But far as I'm concerned the welded fix will never be balanced properly. Good video...!
The plate wasn't in the wrong slot, it only goes in one place, it just came out stuck to the outer pressure plate and I flicked it back in, and you are right, some argue that a welded mechanism isn't balanced, and the one piece billet ones are way outside my price range, this is the third one of these I've actually fitted, they work a treat and have never let me down!
@@Moonfleet41 Not to argue... But I watched the video again. The last friction is in the long slot as you remove the pressure plate. And when you reinstall the pressure plate you have moved it to the short slot where it should be. I was agreeing with your Mod. The ring you installed is a Good fix and holds up well and presents no balance problems.
Aa a welder myself i would have no worries about balance if TIG welded by a professional as the weld would be an even width all the way round and that width would be small, say 3mm wide. Being so close to the centre of rotation, any imbalance would be negligible and would have no detrimental effect.
I've watched 4x other Busa 1 videos, the first friction plate is not in the same slot as the rest i.e. ruclips.net/video/mprbDAiDt3s/видео.html as such Del is correct.
I didn't know that the Busa had such a simple, cheap and effective slipper clutch. Clever idea, but obviously there is wear in the end. Good that you showed us a simple way to solve the problem. Thanks from Nürnberg/Germany, Günter
Glad to help Günter , It's actually a common mechanism in many Suzuki models, TL1000, GSX1400 etc, and does indeed suffer with wear, and after 40k miles, mine was playing up, so time to lock it up and eliminate it from the system. Have a great weekend and keep safe. Del.
I've heard about this mod, but had never seen one being fitted. Now I understand. Thanks. New shop looks awesome, and the audio is crystal clear. The wall panneling must be a winner
Thanks mate, simple enough mod aye? And for those who can't weld to the right standard, or afford to buy performance parts, this is a perfect nut and bolt fix... and thanks for your kind words, the textured walls and the open roof have made a difference!
I have a '97 TL1000S and the clutch ramp system apear slightly different to this in terms of its size however i cant confirm that as it was welded before i bought the bike. The clutch did slip slightly on hard throttle but a set of Barnett clutch springs put an end to that. Great video Del and i love seeing these little snippets of difference with the different bikes. Loving the triumph build but will admit to skipping a few episodes due to being a long term subscriber and seen the caliper rebuild on the ZX7, caliper rebuild on the Busa... so occasionally its a case of same footage, different bike. Always around for the fresh stuff though and aways will be. Be well D&P.
Thanks Bert, we just upload the projects that come along, and I think maintenance and refurbishment videos can always benefit from being refreshed and done again, because people don't tend to watch your back catalogue as much as the fresh ones! Plus of course if it's their specific bike they're more likely to watch it, but agreed, if you're a long term viewer then some subjects will come round a second time... I guess it goes to show how much stuff we've covered over the years! Thanks so much for your support, we really appreciate it!
Is there a place for option 4, to replace with a new slipper clutch? Then you do not lose the benefit of the job it does. Or is it too expensive/ not work having anyway?
Hello, I really liked the video. I have a B King, I would like to know if it is convenient to do the same as you did, I would also like to know the accessory that you install and the torque tool that you use, thank you very much.
Way to go mate! I'm getting ready to do this to my 2002 Hayabusa I'm getting weird slipping clutch issues under full throttle where it almost like feels like you're pulling in the clutch lever instantaneously and I come to find out it's the ramping crap and I get the knocking at idle with the clutch lever out too it's very annoying. I can't wait to do this tomorrow. Thanks for a great excellent video also to anyone doing this always get the Gen 2 clutches cuz they have more clutch material than the Gen 1.
Did your clutch jerked during launching? Mine is doing some violent jerking occasionally if you are launching it. I have been recommended to install all new OEM clutch steel plates along with friction's, but I'm guessing that it might not be solved until this kind of modification is done.
Yes Del I had to learn the hard way, 30 years ago I had a Suzuki GS 750, I was adjusting the valve clearances, I’d made a tool to lever the valve buckets down to remove the cam shims with a old Allen key, but couldn’t get enough leverage on the key, so I used a small length of pipe to extend leverage, and yes you’ve guessed right, it slipped off and the bloody Allen key disappeared down the timing chain hole, my heart sank, major engine strip down😩 but I was so lucky, after many hours with one of those magnets that look like the car aerial I fished it out, boy was that a relief 😅 that’s when I decided to block the hole up before Continuing adjusting the cams, workshop is looking great, that’s a good cheap mod cheers Del ⚙️🔩🔧👍
HAHAHAHA.. Mate, i feel your pain, i was that man too.. literally dropped and actual shim down the chain shaft.. Bastardicus maximus.. had no fancy car aerial magnet thingy.. turned the engine upside down in vain hope.. and the shim went up under a piston skirt and lodged tight.... but at least pulling only the top end off gave me access up under the piston... lessons we never forget aye mate. Thanks for your kind words, have a great weekend.. Del.
I followed these steps on my 2013 Gen 2 Busa but now, my bike dies after releasing the clutch on initial start up. Anything that I may have done incorrectly?
Do you know if a similar kit is available for the TL1000R? If so is it possible to use the standard springs so as not to make the lever heavier and reduce the strain on the slave cylinder?
Hola me gustó mucho el vídeo. Yo tengo una B King, me gustaría saber si es conveniente hacer lo mismo que usted hizo, también me gustaría saber el accesorio que usted instala y la herramienta dinamométrica que utiliza, muchas gracias.
The first clutch friction plate was in the wrong place, until you shifted it,, but then you knew that ;). Im going to do that mod to mine but i will weld it i think, looking forward to the slave cylinder mod too
Sure thing buddy, welding works if you're good enough at it, but it must be TIG welded and unless you're gonna weld it all the way round, make sure you space the welds evenly for balance, but I'm absolutely sure you knew that lol
Hi dear .. I have hayabusa gen 2 .. And i have issue .. When the gear on position 3 and RPM high then when i leave the throtel i got like a cut when RPM arrive to like around 7 do you think this issue due to this part you work on ?
Great Video - I can't see the link to the seller who sells the schnitz locking ring for hyabusa clutch, I live in Australia and the cost to have it sent from Schnitz racing is almost the same in postage as the same for the part. Any suggestions would be most welcomed.
Great video Del & Penny. The new place is looking excellent mate. Hope things are starting to get better over there, we are doing ok this side of the pond. Penny & you have a great weekend and stay safe. Cheers
H mate, Yes indeed, we now have a promised date that it all apparently ends, and no more restrictions.. 21st June, midsummer day.. so we shall see and hopefully they'll stick to it, i guess it all depends on how the infections rates go and if people can toe the line and not go berserk and kick off another flood again.. Sunny weekend here, so been out on the Busa for a little pootle, time to catch up on admin and chill for a bit.. take care there and keep safe. D&Pxx
I did the mod on my previous Hayabusa by welding it. Got another Hayabusa now, fairly high mileage, and definitely want to do the mod again. I like the idea of the spacer ring though. However my question is more on that lovely torque wrench setup you have there. Where can I find it online?
There is a link below the video that that T-Bar Torque Wrench, along with a link to the parts used on the bike.. Good luck with yours, hope this helps.
Good plan buddy, I've always fancied one myself, we even have a decent track not too far away, but there always seems to be something else to spend the money on!
delboy, did the mod, all looked good, but now im struggling to find first gear and when its in gear, bike wont move,also a clicking sound coming from clutch side, stripped down that side again and all looks ok
Love the new place and the way you organized the bolts excellent job Del. I'm surprised that you have never been contacted by tv channel to have your own show it would definitely be a blockbuster hit.
Cheers mate, that's very kind, we did work with Discovery a few years ago for about 7 shows on their Turbo Hub, it was on the same format as Wheeler Dealers, but only a limited run... would be cool to be invited again some day, what a dream come true aye?
It’s a constant mesh clutch not a slipper clutch, the idea being it limits back torque on down shifts and stops the wheel from locking. But the original clutch causes issues on launch if you get it in between the area of revs between it engaging and disengaging causing a hairy launch. Also if you have fitted stiffer springs you really need to beef up the mount for the slave cylinder mount as they are notorious for cracking and falling apart with heavy duty springs.
I haven’t got a Hiabusa I just enjoy your videos great work as always I really like the small torque wrench spanner are the expensive ? Keep up the great work 👍👍
Hi Dale, thanks for your kind words, the small precision torque wrench isn't cheap, bit it is a premium quality tool, which is important for those smaller toque values that can be easily stripped. I posted a link to the tool under the video mate.
Hey Del and Penny good to see you all moved in and back on the projects. Great mod on the beast, and as always it's a pleasure watching you crack bolts loose and get down to business. Take care, ride safe!
One of my favorite kids of videos that you do, these seemingly 'simple' projects, that when done correctly produce such a positive result! Shop looks great, video quality is awesome! Cheers to you both....ride safe!
Thank you Allen, that's really kind Sir, it's a simple upgrade on the bike to rectify a bit of a weak spot in Suzuki's armour, and having ridden it now, it definitely worked as well! Glad you enjoyed the video, couple more of these to come and then moving on to some more creative stuff!
If you need to ever replace your "conical" washer they are called Belvoir washers and are available in different sizes in the engineering world so you wont need to go the the bike shop for your new one and as already said they are a one use device.
Sure thing buddy, there's a link directly under the video if you click 'Show More', then it's right there, takes you to Spanner Monkey and a buy now link... they're a bit pricey, but rated from 5-14Nm, a very critical torque range for those smaller, fragile threads and it is finest German precision made, you get what you pay for mate.
Great video del glad you're back doing the bikes but I did enjoy all the videos of the move both of you stay safe and looking forward to more videos 🇬🇧👍
Thank you Dean, we just re-launched the merch after the previous company closed down, a much better range and I particularly like the neck tubes, but of course a coffee mug is essential equipment, so good thinking mate, and thanks for your purchase!
Hi Delboy, I want to share information. I ordered this part (hayabusa 99-07) and installed it in a suzuki gsx 1400 year 2006, it fits. same clutch hayabusa and gsx 1400😉
@@Moonfleet41 UPDATE several times my clutch slipped at higher speeds after installing that part... it was very annoying at 150 km/h when it slips and then catches again... I took the part off... something didn't fit right and I wouldn't recommend it if that part is installed on gsx 1400... I wouldn't like someone to install it and then something happens... very annoying when at high speed the slats slip and then catch again,... Sorry
@@tomislavknezovic1 I don't know what you're referring to by clutch slip, if you're referring to the lock up ring that stops the back torque limiter from operating, then it can't slip if it's correctly fitted as it locks the mechanism solid... so not sure what happened for you, but never had a problem with mine on the Hayabusa... but thanks for your input!
Nice work del. are heavy duty springs the same as stiffer springs? I’m looking to replace mine on my srad 600 because the clutch is far too heavy. Thanks.
Hi Neil, if your clutch is too heavy for you, then stiffer or heavy duty springs (same thing) will make it worse... but if you have a cable then that could be your problem, they can get stiff over the years with internal corrosion so it pays to replace them and if you buy a Slinky Glide cable from Wemoto, they're even smoother in operation, so that could really lighten your level a lot.
Yay glad to see the spanners turning again learnt a lot from this one considering I've never owned a geared bike before enjoy your weekend both of you and as always ride safe
Nice to see you in the new shop! Great timing on the clutch video for me as I'm waiting on parts for my clutch now and was wondering if my cordless 1/2" dewalt impact would have the guts to remove the clutch nut on my bike. Also, since the nut on my bike gets staked (like yours) I guess there's no need to get picky about a specific torque setting? Mine happens to need 69ft lbs but a good jab with the impact should do? Thanks for these videos they are very helpful!
It does have a specific torque setting mate, it'll be in your manual and I'm lucky enough to have a programmable impact gun so I just set it to the right torque and trigger it till it stops, it is important to get it right as that pressure will hold the mechanism still and you're right also, staking it the way that you're meant to does give you a belt and braces security!
@@Moonfleet41 I didnt realize you can set your impact to the exact torque that you want, thats awesome! Mine is 69ft lbs, so I'll be sure to use my torque wrench on it, thanks for the quick response bud!
Believe you can mate, but just check the website, the link is below the video in the 'description', they certainly offer them for the TL1000 and SV1000, and I think I saw one listed for the big Jix14...
Of course not, that is fine, the pump is not left dry when the bike is on the stand, it will still feed oil to the engine quite adequately on the sidestand.
Hi guys maybe someone can help me with some knowledge, my busa year 2000 when I press tha clutch in gear without turning tha engine on does not disengage when I push it forward, can someone help ......
Great vid, Del... motorcycle Zen achieved! Just wondering with this new set up if there’s more friction and/or heat buildup? Awesome start to the new location. Hope you guys are both doing well. 🏍👍🏍
Hi Gary, i imagine there would be less heat and friction now due to the elimination of slippage on back torque, it acts exactly like a regular ordinary clutch now. Hope you're well too, have a great week and keep safe.. D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 thx, Del. Ok gotcha on the heat and friction. Reminds me of a buddy’s 916 Ducati I had access to for a few years (before I bought my ST3)- it had the factory dry clutch and I always thought I was doing damage to his bike because of that bizarre noise. Hope the shop is everything you’ve wanted. (I’m putting finishing touches on the laundry room closet today) and eyeing a nice router on sale in Amazon! Never owned one... would be nice! In any event, stay well!
Hello, I also want to buy this piece! I'm from Romania and I have a Hayabusa from 2001 and I want to install a similar part, where can I order it? can you give me a link? Thanks!
To be precise it's not called a 'Lock up clutch' that's a different thing entirely.. The factory fitted feature is actually called a "Back Torque Limiter", it's purpose is to mitigate the effects of engine braking when riders decelerate. Simply put, it helps prevent the back wheel locking up when you roll off the throttle at high revs... and as the bike wears with mileage and use, the device can be come unreliable and is prone to deploy under initial acceleration.. leading to the bike lurching forward when you try to pull away. So if this is happening to your bike, then you can either weld the two halves of the device together or fit this locking ring to stop it moving... then you will have a regular conventional clutch operation..!
It's a new gasket, I changed it during the project and if you haven't been following our channel for a while, my general practice with all casing gaskets is, after cleaning both faces thoroughly, I stick the gasket to the casing using Blue Hylomar sealant and then just plain grease against the engine, this means the gasket comes off attached 100% to the casing every time, never gets torn or damaged, and that way can be used multiple times with just a freshen up of the grease against the engine side of the gasket! Give it a try mate, it'll save you a lot of money on gaskets you don't need to replace.
@@Moonfleet41 thank you for the thorough and prompt response. I have never heard of an application like that but it does make sense. Wouldn't it be best to at least clean up the mating service on the engine side to help the greased gasket seal properly? I noticed that it was still dirty when you reassembled it.
Hi Tony, good to hear from you mate, hope life is good and you're keeping safe and well.. it's great to be in and getting settled, kettles on next time your down mate. !
Really interesting clutch work!! At first I’d thought it’s clutch plate, apparently, it’s more than that, moving magazine system (whatever you call it) . Sure simple fix with spacer. I’d think you licked this one, personally, I wouldn’t weld any internal parts at all as it may crack at the weld point. No matter who’s professional. ( that’s my opinion) perfect example before and after video!! I like that!! Kwel!!
Thanks buddy, I have to agree with the welding opinion, it truly would have to be done by a top class professional, otherwise there would be balance issues possibly (maybe not as it's very close to the centre of rotation), but nevertheless with the heat issue, I agree... it's already hard metal so one could question whether heating it to weld temperatures could anneal parts of it and I guess this is why the drag racing guys who run monster horsepower actually swop the mechanism for a solid billet steel one... happy with this route though and certainly more confident in it than I would have been with my own welding.
@@Moonfleet41 .. my dad welds past 60 so years, he can’t make near perfect, maybe close. Win some, lose some. Heat and material wise is biggest challenge. I second what you said. I’m kind of guy modified to make things work like you did. Got from EBay?? That’s interesting as I’m EBayer too. Always find something there. Btw- what’s the cost for that kit?? Just out of curiosity 🤗 btw-- I like your torque Allen wrench,, hava find me a set.. can’t wait your next video. Stay safe..
Really enjoyed the big move videos into your new workshop Del, but this is what we've all been waiting for, you getting back to doing what you do best, working on repairing and modifying motorcycles 👍 Great to see the old Busa back on the bench, I've seen this modification done in the past with the solid or welded unit, but never with this configuration, another great job Del, already looking forward to watching the next video back to back with this one...... ⏳⏳⏳
Thank you Graham for your very kind words, it's great to be back in deck and making bike videos again, only so much bumping and shifting you can watch aye.. Hope you enjoy the coming videos, lots of variety and interesting stuff... take care and have a good weekend. Del.
@@GXXRDRVR When re-using an old gasket I always give them a smear of grease just to soften them, and it assures they come off next time without sticking and ripping to bits!
Not everyone's favourite ... But hey when a Clutch is due it's due . Between et toi Del and Moi was gonna like into 1 st sec's ( Promise I didn't 🤞 .) . Although there good ? Clutches From factory / Race type ain't They ? Not been many aftermarket ones available ? Till now 😁 .. Damm ... 55 thou or so from new on mine .. I'll wait till the Achilles heal ., Clonk etc ... Nice kit it seems . P.s... knew someone with Busa trouble a main dealer resisted changing the Clutch ...They had no choice in the end . I did warn Him . I don't think He test rode it ..
great information bro ! glad to see you back with the projects !!!! cheers 🍻 great video ! stay safe guys !!!! ps , in the future a Q & A live stream would be awesome !!!!
Er, doing away with the slipper clutch is not a good idea. Are spares not available?? This is a backward step mod if I ever saw one. Also, 9:47. Again, if that was supposed to be a lock washer, then surely it would be? You do not mention why you decided to take that step, as I am presuming all bolts and nuts are torqued to spec?
not got a booser but as they say knowledge is power :) Del didnt yu have to clean that cover surface we know yu put grease on it but the mating surface looked a little tacky. I was waiting for you to clean off the surface so the mating the pair has a good seal ?
Many bikes have that style of back torque limiter mate, TL1000's GSX1400's etc.. so it will hopefully help a lot of riders.. and i fitted that casing back when i bought the bike, it's a new gasket, Hylomar on the casing, and grease on the engine..(what you saw in the gasket was grease), i just topped it up for a good seal .
When you took the clutch apart I noticed the outer friction disk was in the wrong slot. You did correct that. Maybe you should have mentioned that. As far as the Clutch Mod. I prefer the Mod you used. Or the one piece Mod. I'm sure some will disagree. But far as I'm concerned the welded fix will never be balanced properly. Good video...!
The plate wasn't in the wrong slot, it only goes in one place, it just came out stuck to the outer pressure plate and I flicked it back in, and you are right, some argue that a welded mechanism isn't balanced, and the one piece billet ones are way outside my price range, this is the third one of these I've actually fitted, they work a treat and have never let me down!
@@Moonfleet41 Not to argue... But I watched the video again. The last friction is in the long slot as you remove the pressure plate. And when you reinstall the pressure plate you have moved it to the short slot where it should be.
I was agreeing with your Mod. The ring you installed is a Good fix and holds up well and presents no balance problems.
Aa a welder myself i would have no worries about balance if TIG welded by a professional as the weld would be an even width all the way round and that width would be small, say 3mm wide. Being so close to the centre of rotation, any imbalance would be negligible and would have no detrimental effect.
@@bertzx9r894 " if TIG welded by a professional" exactly that, which is why i didn't weld it, it's way above my pay grade..
I've watched 4x other Busa 1 videos, the first friction plate is not in the same slot as the rest i.e. ruclips.net/video/mprbDAiDt3s/видео.html as such Del is correct.
I didn't know that the Busa had such a simple, cheap and effective slipper clutch. Clever idea, but obviously there is wear in the end. Good that you showed us a simple way to solve the problem. Thanks from Nürnberg/Germany, Günter
Glad to help Günter , It's actually a common mechanism in many Suzuki models, TL1000, GSX1400 etc, and does indeed suffer with wear, and after 40k miles, mine was playing up, so time to lock it up and eliminate it from the system. Have a great weekend and keep safe. Del.
@@wilsonisme1 Interesting. Food for thought. Thanks for sharing
Cool vid Del. A mate did the same mod on his gen 1 and it's been holding up for him. He commutes evey day to work and back. Good luck with yours.
Thanks for sharing that buddy, so far it's transformed the ride, no more jolting pulling away and with the stiffer springs, it's crisper to use too!
I've heard about this mod, but had never seen one being fitted. Now I understand. Thanks.
New shop looks awesome, and the audio is crystal clear. The wall panneling must be a winner
Thanks mate, simple enough mod aye? And for those who can't weld to the right standard, or afford to buy performance parts, this is a perfect nut and bolt fix... and thanks for your kind words, the textured walls and the open roof have made a difference!
great very nice i have a question gen2 clucth kit can be fixed in gen1 hayabusa?
workshop looking good Del and glad your back to the projects. I learn so much up from them.
Thanks Dave, glad you enjoyed it mate. 👍
I have a '97 TL1000S and the clutch ramp system apear slightly different to this in terms of its size however i cant confirm that as it was welded before i bought the bike. The clutch did slip slightly on hard throttle but a set of Barnett clutch springs put an end to that.
Great video Del and i love seeing these little snippets of difference with the different bikes.
Loving the triumph build but will admit to skipping a few episodes due to being a long term subscriber and seen the caliper rebuild on the ZX7, caliper rebuild on the Busa... so occasionally its a case of same footage, different bike. Always around for the fresh stuff though and aways will be.
Be well D&P.
Thanks Bert, we just upload the projects that come along, and I think maintenance and refurbishment videos can always benefit from being refreshed and done again, because people don't tend to watch your back catalogue as much as the fresh ones! Plus of course if it's their specific bike they're more likely to watch it, but agreed, if you're a long term viewer then some subjects will come round a second time... I guess it goes to show how much stuff we've covered over the years! Thanks so much for your support, we really appreciate it!
Is there a place for option 4, to replace with a new slipper clutch? Then you do not lose the benefit of the job it does. Or is it too expensive/ not work having anyway?
It wasn't a good design in the first place mate.. but i guess you could simply order a new one from your main dealer... !
Hello, I really liked the video. I have a B King, I would like to know if it is convenient to do the same as you did, I would also like to know the accessory that you install and the torque tool that you use, thank you very much.
Way to go mate! I'm getting ready to do this to my 2002 Hayabusa I'm getting weird slipping clutch issues under full throttle where it almost like feels like you're pulling in the clutch lever instantaneously and I come to find out it's the ramping crap and I get the knocking at idle with the clutch lever out too it's very annoying. I can't wait to do this tomorrow. Thanks for a great excellent video also to anyone doing this always get the Gen 2 clutches cuz they have more clutch material than the Gen 1.
Did your clutch jerked during launching? Mine is doing some violent jerking occasionally if you are launching it. I have been recommended to install all new OEM clutch steel plates along with friction's, but I'm guessing that it might not be solved until this kind of modification is done.
Yes Del I had to learn the hard way, 30 years ago I had a Suzuki GS 750, I was adjusting the valve clearances, I’d made a tool to lever the valve buckets down to remove the cam shims with a old Allen key, but couldn’t get enough leverage on the key, so I used a small length of pipe to extend leverage, and yes you’ve guessed right, it slipped off and the bloody Allen key disappeared down the timing chain hole, my heart sank, major engine strip down😩 but I was so lucky, after many hours with one of those magnets that look like the car aerial I fished it out, boy was that a relief 😅 that’s when I decided to block the hole up before Continuing adjusting the cams, workshop is looking great, that’s a good cheap mod cheers Del ⚙️🔩🔧👍
HAHAHAHA.. Mate, i feel your pain, i was that man too.. literally dropped and actual shim down the chain shaft.. Bastardicus maximus.. had no fancy car aerial magnet thingy.. turned the engine upside down in vain hope.. and the shim went up under a piston skirt and lodged tight.... but at least pulling only the top end off gave me access up under the piston... lessons we never forget aye mate. Thanks for your kind words, have a great weekend.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 we’re older and wiser now thank goodness, cheers mate 🍺
Simple mod, glad to see you back on the bike videos in the new space. Have a great weekend and see you next week.
Thanks Andy, yes good to be back to work and in a better bigger space, really helps us expand and grow... have a great weekend yourself!
I followed these steps on my 2013 Gen 2 Busa but now, my bike dies after releasing the clutch on initial start up. Anything that I may have done incorrectly?
Do you know if a similar kit is available for the TL1000R? If so is it possible to use the standard springs so as not to make the lever heavier and reduce the strain on the slave cylinder?
I believe it is, provided your bike has a back torque limiter, check with the supplier for spec on your bike, I left a link in the description.
"Simple common sense. But you knew that!" (at about 3?45) . . . .That's why your videos are so great. I DIDN'T know that!
Thanks buddy, just passing on the kind of things that can save a lot of heartache and frustration!
Hola me gustó mucho el vídeo. Yo tengo una B King, me gustaría saber si es conveniente hacer lo mismo que usted hizo, también me gustaría saber el accesorio que usted instala y la herramienta dinamométrica que utiliza, muchas gracias.
The first clutch friction plate was in the wrong place, until you shifted it,, but then you knew that ;). Im going to do that mod to mine but i will weld it i think, looking forward to the slave cylinder mod too
Sure thing buddy, welding works if you're good enough at it, but it must be TIG welded and unless you're gonna weld it all the way round, make sure you space the welds evenly for balance, but I'm absolutely sure you knew that lol
Hi dear .. I have hayabusa gen 2 .. And i have issue .. When the gear on position 3 and RPM high then when i leave the throtel i got like a cut when RPM arrive to like around 7 do you think this issue due to this part you work on ?
我來至台灣。影片中有看到你的細心。喜歡你的影片
Great Video - I can't see the link to the seller who sells the schnitz locking ring for hyabusa clutch, I live in Australia and the cost to have it sent from Schnitz racing is almost the same in postage as the same for the part. Any suggestions would be most welcomed.
It's in the eBay link i posted in the description below the video mate..
Whaow, it's SO cool to see you again at work in this magnific garage! "Spring is comming"!!!
Thanks Cédric, we're glad to be in and back to work.
Great video Del & Penny. The new place is looking excellent mate. Hope things are starting to get better over there, we are doing ok this side of the pond. Penny & you have a great weekend and stay safe. Cheers
H mate, Yes indeed, we now have a promised date that it all apparently ends, and no more restrictions.. 21st June, midsummer day.. so we shall see and hopefully they'll stick to it, i guess it all depends on how the infections rates go and if people can toe the line and not go berserk and kick off another flood again.. Sunny weekend here, so been out on the Busa for a little pootle, time to catch up on admin and chill for a bit.. take care there and keep safe. D&Pxx
I did the mod on my previous Hayabusa by welding it. Got another Hayabusa now, fairly high mileage, and definitely want to do the mod again. I like the idea of the spacer ring though. However my question is more on that lovely torque wrench setup you have there. Where can I find it online?
There is a link below the video that that T-Bar Torque Wrench, along with a link to the parts used on the bike.. Good luck with yours, hope this helps.
Glad you’re twisting wrenches again del. i wanna buy a track bike just so i have something to break and fix!!!
Good plan buddy, I've always fancied one myself, we even have a decent track not too far away, but there always seems to be something else to spend the money on!
Any reason why you didn’t line up the dots when you put it back together?
Doesn't matter mate, the mechanism's locked up solid.
Great video as always and I’ve learned so much. Quick ask, where did you get the Schintz modification from?? Thanks in advance
Link In the description mate !
How did it hold up for you after these couple of years
delboy, did the mod, all looked good, but now im struggling to find first gear and when its in gear, bike wont move,also a clicking sound coming from clutch side, stripped down that side again and all looks ok
Update?
The mod looks great especially with the stiffer springs. Allows more mods that add more power for performance.
Sure thing mate, once I've beefed up the slave cylinder it should make it a lot more enjoyable to ride!
Love the new place and the way you organized the bolts excellent job Del.
I'm surprised that you have never been contacted by tv channel to have your own show it would definitely be a blockbuster hit.
Cheers mate, that's very kind, we did work with Discovery a few years ago for about 7 shows on their Turbo Hub, it was on the same format as Wheeler Dealers, but only a limited run... would be cool to be invited again some day, what a dream come true aye?
It’s a constant mesh clutch not a slipper clutch, the idea being it limits back torque on down shifts and stops the wheel from locking.
But the original clutch causes issues on launch if you get it in between the area of revs between it engaging and disengaging causing a hairy launch.
Also if you have fitted stiffer springs you really need to beef up the mount for the slave cylinder mount as they are notorious for cracking and falling apart with heavy duty springs.
Check out the very next video we'll be loading up online on Tuesday mate.. Slave cylinder brace plate... ! great minds think alike aye.!±
Love your video's, Delboy! Did you post a follow-up review on how the clutch mod functioned and/or held up over time?
Thanks mate glad you're enjoining the content, and the clutch is fine, operates like any normal clutch, no issues.
bonjour quel couple de serra ge pour remonter embrayage.merci
I haven’t got a Hiabusa I just enjoy your videos great work as always I really like the small torque wrench spanner are the expensive ? Keep up the great work 👍👍
Hi Dale, thanks for your kind words, the small precision torque wrench isn't cheap, bit it is a premium quality tool, which is important for those smaller toque values that can be easily stripped. I posted a link to the tool under the video mate.
Would anyone happen to know the torque specs. Of the bolts removed in this video? I don't have access to the owners manual.
good job i like you videos i am a harley driver but you engineering is great i follow you
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it.
Hey Del and Penny good to see you all moved in and back on the projects. Great mod on the beast, and as always it's a pleasure watching you crack bolts loose and get down to business. Take care, ride safe!
Thanks John, good to be back on deck and under way... thanks for your kind support buddy.
One of my favorite kids of videos that you do, these seemingly 'simple' projects, that when done correctly produce such a positive result! Shop looks great, video quality is awesome! Cheers to you both....ride safe!
Thank you Allen, that's really kind Sir, it's a simple upgrade on the bike to rectify a bit of a weak spot in Suzuki's armour, and having ridden it now, it definitely worked as well! Glad you enjoyed the video, couple more of these to come and then moving on to some more creative stuff!
Loved watching the process 👍👍
Enjoyed that Del - I would never have had the know how on something like that but now I do 👍
Glad you enjoyed it mate!
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I am very happy with your explanation bro, my greetings are from Indonesia, I have a hayabusa gen1
Glad I could help
Does this work for TL1000R as well???
If you need to ever replace your "conical" washer they are called Belvoir washers and are available in different sizes in the engineering world so you wont need to go the the bike shop for your new one and as already said they are a one use device.
Thanks mate, when we're allowed out to play again, I may pick one up just for good measure!
FYI: at 9:02, You did not align the marks on the clutch mechanism properly.
Yeah, spotted it, fingers and thumbs in the way, corrected it right after that shot...check the avatar!
Nice vid once again Del can you tell me what s the tuque wrench your using looks very useful
Sure thing buddy, there's a link directly under the video if you click 'Show More', then it's right there, takes you to Spanner Monkey and a buy now link... they're a bit pricey, but rated from 5-14Nm, a very critical torque range for those smaller, fragile threads and it is finest German precision made, you get what you pay for mate.
Great video del glad you're back doing the bikes but I did enjoy all the videos of the move both of you stay safe and looking forward to more videos 🇬🇧👍
Thanks Richard, it was a great couple of seeks moving in, but its good ot be back on the spanners.. have a great weekend mate and keep safe. 👍
hi del good to see your new workshop up and running looks brilliant ,good to see you what you do best mate,o yes ordered one of your coffee mugs
Thank you Dean, we just re-launched the merch after the previous company closed down, a much better range and I particularly like the neck tubes, but of course a coffee mug is essential equipment, so good thinking mate, and thanks for your purchase!
Another good job Delboy you make it look so easy nice to see the new workshop up and running.all the best Tony
Thanks Tony, simple enough aye, and a great result. !
Hi Delboy, I want to share information. I ordered this part (hayabusa 99-07) and installed it in a suzuki gsx 1400 year 2006, it fits. same clutch hayabusa and gsx 1400😉
Thanks for the info
@@Moonfleet41 UPDATE several times my clutch slipped at higher speeds after installing that part... it was very annoying at 150 km/h when it slips and then catches again... I took the part off... something didn't fit right and I wouldn't recommend it if that part is installed on gsx 1400... I wouldn't like someone to install it and then something happens... very annoying when at high speed the slats slip and then catch again,... Sorry
@@tomislavknezovic1 I don't know what you're referring to by clutch slip, if you're referring to the lock up ring that stops the back torque limiter from operating, then it can't slip if it's correctly fitted as it locks the mechanism solid... so not sure what happened for you, but never had a problem with mine on the Hayabusa... but thanks for your input!
Nice work del. are heavy duty springs the same as stiffer springs? I’m looking to replace mine on my srad 600 because the clutch is far too heavy. Thanks.
Hi Neil, if your clutch is too heavy for you, then stiffer or heavy duty springs (same thing) will make it worse... but if you have a cable then that could be your problem, they can get stiff over the years with internal corrosion so it pays to replace them and if you buy a Slinky Glide cable from Wemoto, they're even smoother in operation, so that could really lighten your level a lot.
@@Moonfleet41 thanks del.
What's the name of that lil torque kit
Didn't know that. Thanks for the rag tip. 👍
Yay glad to see the spanners turning again learnt a lot from this one considering I've never owned a geared bike before enjoy your weekend both of you and as always ride safe
Thanks Malcolm, glad you enjoyed the watch.. have fun and enjoy your weekend. 👍
Very quiet video. I liked your extra commentary in your older stuff. I do not know a lot about bikes and your little tid bits where very informative
Well come back! Go for it!
Nice to see you in the new shop! Great timing on the clutch video for me as I'm waiting on parts for my clutch now and was wondering if my cordless 1/2" dewalt impact would have the guts to remove the clutch nut on my bike. Also, since the nut on my bike gets staked (like yours) I guess there's no need to get picky about a specific torque setting? Mine happens to need 69ft lbs but a good jab with the impact should do? Thanks for these videos they are very helpful!
It does have a specific torque setting mate, it'll be in your manual and I'm lucky enough to have a programmable impact gun so I just set it to the right torque and trigger it till it stops, it is important to get it right as that pressure will hold the mechanism still and you're right also, staking it the way that you're meant to does give you a belt and braces security!
@@Moonfleet41 I didnt realize you can set your impact to the exact torque that you want, thats awesome! Mine is 69ft lbs, so I'll be sure to use my torque wrench on it, thanks for the quick response bud!
good to see hayabusa on the channel again!!!
Thanks Bruno, more to come (two more at least). !
Del can you purchase this for a zzr1400 2019 model ?
Is it the same set up as this video? Just wondering pal
Great video
Believe you can mate, but just check the website, the link is below the video in the 'description', they certainly offer them for the TL1000 and SV1000, and I think I saw one listed for the big Jix14...
@@Moonfleet41 cheers keep up the good work
Really good video very informative i will be watching all your videos thank you very much 😊
Awesome, thank you!
Something I was always worried about.. would it be dangerous to leave a bike ticking over on the side stand regards oil starvation to the pump?
Of course not, that is fine, the pump is not left dry when the bike is on the stand, it will still feed oil to the engine quite adequately on the sidestand.
Hi guys maybe someone can help me with some knowledge, my busa year 2000 when I press tha clutch in gear without turning tha engine on does not disengage when I push it forward, can someone help ......
Another Therapuetic Video. Cheers Del.
Glad you enjoyed it mate, appreciate your support!
Great vid, Del... motorcycle Zen achieved! Just wondering with this new set up if there’s more friction and/or heat buildup? Awesome start to the new location. Hope you guys are both doing well. 🏍👍🏍
Hi Gary, i imagine there would be less heat and friction now due to the elimination of slippage on back torque, it acts exactly like a regular ordinary clutch now. Hope you're well too, have a great week and keep safe.. D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 thx, Del. Ok gotcha on the heat and friction. Reminds me of a buddy’s 916 Ducati I had access to for a few years (before I bought my ST3)- it had the factory dry clutch and I always thought I was doing damage to his bike because of that bizarre noise. Hope the shop is everything you’ve wanted. (I’m putting finishing touches on the laundry room closet today) and eyeing a nice router on sale in Amazon! Never owned one... would be nice! In any event, stay well!
Hi . Can You send me the link to buy lock ring to fix Hayabusa Clutch as you show at video ? I did not find it
The link is provided right below the video my friend:- click "Show More" and when the list opens, the top link is to "Products used" ! Enjoy !
Can i do this on my gsx 1400 suzuki ?
Good day sir i need yore help on my gen 1 busa
Your workshop was great. And the video was well explained. Keep it up
Thank you very much!
1:51 The hammer flip is addictive🤣⚠️
Hello, I also want to buy this piece! I'm from Romania and I have a Hayabusa from 2001 and I want to install a similar part, where can I order it? can you give me a link? Thanks!
Yes, the link is in the description under the video, as clearly stated in the video mate!
What's the Advantages of the lock up clutch
To be precise it's not called a 'Lock up clutch' that's a different thing entirely.. The factory fitted feature is actually called a "Back Torque Limiter", it's purpose is to mitigate the effects of engine braking when riders decelerate. Simply put, it helps prevent the back wheel locking up when you roll off the throttle at high revs... and as the bike wears with mileage and use, the device can be come unreliable and is prone to deploy under initial acceleration.. leading to the bike lurching forward when you try to pull away. So if this is happening to your bike, then you can either weld the two halves of the device together or fit this locking ring to stop it moving... then you will have a regular conventional clutch operation..!
@@Moonfleet41 Ok great thank you, how long is yours been holding up for ? And is the piece just as good as welding the 2
Never had a problem with it, i can now launch it hard enough to leave long black line on the road, it's never jumped or lurched since..!
@@Moonfleet41 👍 thank you
Great job del 👍
Thanks buddy 👍
Good stuff Del. Same problem with HD big twin primary compensators. Just a matter of time.... Thanks for the expertise
Why didn't you properly clean the gasket mating surfaces before putting the clutch cover back on?
It's a new gasket, I changed it during the project and if you haven't been following our channel for a while, my general practice with all casing gaskets is, after cleaning both faces thoroughly, I stick the gasket to the casing using Blue Hylomar sealant and then just plain grease against the engine, this means the gasket comes off attached 100% to the casing every time, never gets torn or damaged, and that way can be used multiple times with just a freshen up of the grease against the engine side of the gasket! Give it a try mate, it'll save you a lot of money on gaskets you don't need to replace.
@@Moonfleet41 thank you for the thorough and prompt response. I have never heard of an application like that but it does make sense. Wouldn't it be best to at least clean up the mating service on the engine side to help the greased gasket seal properly? I noticed that it was still dirty when you reassembled it.
@@Moonfleet41 and can you point me to the video where you talk about this application process? Thanks
Glad to see you settled in. Sometimes the simplest things are the best. Hope the clutch works for you. 👍🏍️
Working just fine like a regular clutch.. no more jerking or stalling on launch.. !
does this mod also eliminate jerky launches?
Yes it does. !
Super video !!!!
Loving the look of the workshop Del , Penny 🥳🍾
Hi Tony, good to hear from you mate, hope life is good and you're keeping safe and well.. it's great to be in and getting settled, kettles on next time your down mate. !
Really interesting clutch work!! At first I’d thought it’s clutch plate, apparently, it’s more than that, moving magazine system (whatever you call it) . Sure simple fix with spacer. I’d think you licked this one, personally, I wouldn’t weld any internal parts at all as it may crack at the weld point. No matter who’s professional. ( that’s my opinion) perfect example before and after video!! I like that!! Kwel!!
Thanks buddy, I have to agree with the welding opinion, it truly would have to be done by a top class professional, otherwise there would be balance issues possibly (maybe not as it's very close to the centre of rotation), but nevertheless with the heat issue, I agree... it's already hard metal so one could question whether heating it to weld temperatures could anneal parts of it and I guess this is why the drag racing guys who run monster horsepower actually swop the mechanism for a solid billet steel one... happy with this route though and certainly more confident in it than I would have been with my own welding.
@@Moonfleet41 .. my dad welds past 60 so years, he can’t make near perfect, maybe close. Win some, lose some. Heat and material wise is biggest challenge. I second what you said. I’m kind of guy modified to make things work like you did. Got from EBay?? That’s interesting as I’m EBayer too. Always find something there. Btw- what’s the cost for that kit?? Just out of curiosity 🤗 btw-- I like your torque Allen wrench,, hava find me a set.. can’t wait your next video. Stay safe..
@@Goldwing1500rider I mentioned in the video at the end buddy, maybe you skipped it.. the kit is £85 with the springs included.
@@Moonfleet41 .. guess I did... unless it wasn’t captioned as I’m deaf... I read and follow actions!! Smile. Lol
@@Moonfleet41 .. I went back yes you said 85 pounds... in America we say dollars... something I have to get used to.... thanks del!
Doesn’t the original design do a worthwhile job of not locking up the back wheel? So why not replace the wear and tear with like for like OEM parts?
It's a known issue with Gen 1's, read a little up on it.
Awesome video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you Dan 👍
No THIS IS WHAT I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR! I love your videos but THIS is what I really like to see.
congratulations on the new place, looks great, looking forward to more of your awesome videos. Cheers!
Thanks so much mate!
Domed washers are usually a single use item as the springyness (sp?) goes away after the first torque down.
This thick and chunky they'll last a little longer than once.!
What is the torque for the springs Nm??
Hi del regarding your xjr can you help me where can I get a set of yss g4 shocks from
Here you go mate.. www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/xjr_1300/02/picture/rear_yss_g-series_twin_shocks
Thank you for your help mate
Very nice brother man and love the new shop 👍
Thank you brother, good to hear from you again, we hope you're keeping safe and well, what a strange year it's been, but soon back to normal.
Really enjoyed the big move videos into your new workshop Del, but this is what we've all been waiting for, you getting back to doing what you do best, working on repairing and modifying motorcycles 👍 Great to see the old Busa back on the bench, I've seen this modification done in the past with the solid or welded unit, but never with this configuration, another great job Del, already looking forward to watching the next video back to back with this one...... ⏳⏳⏳
Thank you Graham for your very kind words, it's great to be back in deck and making bike videos again, only so much bumping and shifting you can watch aye.. Hope you enjoy the coming videos, lots of variety and interesting stuff... take care and have a good weekend. Del.
Nice video Del! Looking forward to the next one! Greetings from Holland
11:23 - what are you using as a gasket?
Erm.... A gasket..! It's on the casing ! can you not see it ?
I do now, thanks. I was curious what you put on it, from the tub.
@@GXXRDRVR When re-using an old gasket I always give them a smear of grease just to soften them, and it assures they come off next time without sticking and ripping to bits!
Excellent tip! Thank you!
Another great vid Del.
Glad you enjoyed it mate, it was overdue for me, been putting it of for a while, but glad it's done now, make all the difference.
Not everyone's favourite ... But hey when a Clutch is due it's due . Between et toi Del and Moi was gonna like into 1 st sec's ( Promise I didn't 🤞 .) . Although there good ? Clutches From factory / Race type ain't They ? Not been many aftermarket ones available ? Till now 😁 .. Damm ... 55 thou or so from new on mine .. I'll wait till the Achilles heal ., Clonk etc ... Nice kit it seems . P.s... knew someone with Busa trouble a main dealer resisted changing the Clutch ...They had no choice in the end . I did warn Him . I don't think He test rode it ..
great information bro ! glad to see you back with the projects !!!! cheers 🍻 great video ! stay safe guys !!!! ps , in the future a Q & A live stream would be awesome !!!!
Thanks brother, glad you enjoyed it, we have lots in the pipeline and looking forward to the future!
literally just needed this information right now for my turbo busa 😂
any shoutouts welcome delboy haha 👍 love your page and trying to grow mine to have riding videos and tours soon hopefully
Just love watching you work & using the right tool for the job👍
Thank you 👍, glad you enjoy what we do!
Er, doing away with the slipper clutch is not a good idea. Are spares not available?? This is a backward step mod if I ever saw one. Also, 9:47. Again, if that was supposed to be a lock washer, then surely it would be? You do not mention why you decided to take that step, as I am presuming all bolts and nuts are torqued to spec?
Brilliant !
not got a booser but as they say knowledge is power :) Del didnt yu have to clean that cover surface we know yu put grease on it but the mating surface looked a little tacky. I was waiting for you to clean off the surface so the mating the pair has a good seal ?
Many bikes have that style of back torque limiter mate, TL1000's GSX1400's etc.. so it will hopefully help a lot of riders.. and i fitted that casing back when i bought the bike, it's a new gasket, Hylomar on the casing, and grease on the engine..(what you saw in the gasket was grease), i just topped it up for a good seal .
CONGRATULATIONS On Penny's and You Del On The New Place 👏 Awesome Job on the clutch Both Of You Have A Great Weekend 👍 and Ride Safely
Thank you Paul! It's been a busy couple of weeks, and we're really happy to be in and back to work. have a good weekend and keep safe you too! D&Pxx
Del... Another great video and the shop is awesome, but you knew that.... HAHAHA
Thanks buddy, we are honoured to be in such a cool place, it's been a great journey so far!