I’ve built what you’ve recommended above. Can’t wait. Have to install the pump and electronics next. It has a pressure switch, manual spray button and timer set to 2seconds. I’ve found a washer tank tap from one of the WMI manufacturers. Before I run this, I plan to kerosine wash my intercooler and use an HVAC fin cleaning solution on the exterior of my FMIC Thanks for all your build tips.
Just bought a 120psi 12v pump and the finest sprayer nozzles I could find. Will give this a go later this year... Manifold temps rarely go above ambient, and if they do its around 10⁰C maximum. But if i can keep it always at ambient, in summer or hard pulls, I'll be very happy. Intercooler is already shrouded, was a night and difference and cost literally pennies to do.
@@JulianEdgar that would be really good if I get those results. I already chosen a considerably bigger and more efficient turbo than standard to keep air temperature pre intercooler lower, thus even lower after it than the standard setup. Makes more power at lower boost level, greater airflow with higher density than standard. And all with about the same spool time, 500rpm later. Might be able to gain it back with a proper boost controller with a 3 port solenoid. Wich is also in the plans along with the sprayer to complete the engine optimization. The sprayer will be the icing on the cake.
Just got to test one nozzle on tap water pressure. Very fine mist, you can barely see the spay pattern unless the light is at the right angle. And has a water consumption of 2,5L/h, things are looking good.
Hi Julian, I am so glad I found your RUclips. I used to love your articles in FF and R all those years ago and very much enjoyed and got a lot of use out of Autospeed too. I was very disappointed when that closed down. Wish you great luck and success on youtube .
Great video. Is there any risk of the moisture in the boosted air getting cooled to a point where it creates water droplets that go into the intake. I know Ford added a blocking plate on the latest Focus RS intercooler to prevent this exact water vapour formation happening. In cool, moist air do you think this may happen if conditions are conducive with the water spray on? Thanks
I don't think it would be an issue - why would you be running the spray in cool conditions? (And do you have a link that explains the blocking plate on the Ford RS?)
@@JulianEdgar if by mistake you run the sprayer or malfunction. This is the link ruclips.net/video/Rc6rAzazh5M/видео.html Tell me what you think? Thanks for the reply.
OK, so the blanking plate just reduces cooling airflow to the intercooler all the time. The situation of intake air condensation should never occur with a spray because it should be controlled so that it works only when the load and ambient temps are both high.
@@JulianEdgar this one has made of metal with ceramic tip with a filter. It creates a good cloud.. I will try it and let you know. One more doubt, the ulka pump only works for 2 minutes then stops for 1 minute, would a pump from the Italian brand, specifically ARS's cp6 model 220-230v 32watt motor work? Its a continuous pump
@@JulianEdgaronly reason I am asking is because I don't have access to the spraying systems company's products. I have attached 2 videos below any inputs are appreciated, the first link being the same type of nozzle that i purchased and the second video is of a nozzle that i found called an impaction pin ruby fog nozzle. It seems to be giving a huge cloud of water droplets which i think is also suitable for the application but would like your opinion too. Thanks 1) ruclips.net/user/shortsXmMciDLPHIs?si=IGIxgt14hAT5ATqn 2) ruclips.net/user/shortsMyc5FBwlnXA?si=XgSXByFhtwa0peKJ
Best to do some testing of various nozzle positions (just taped into place) until you can see an even spray coverage over the core after the car's been in motion.
@@JulianEdgar thanks Julian. How did you connect everything together? I noticed the pump has a standard nipple outlet and not a screw connector for the high pressure hose.
Not really. The thermal mass in a water system means that it is slow to change temperature, so the spray would need to be running continuously - not what it is designed to do.
You've obviously tested it to be already beneficial, but with your forward facing nozzle, I have to imagine that at even moderate road speed the output from the nozzle is pushed back through a fairly small surface area of the intercooler core. A hood-mounted camera pointed into the scoop would provide evidence. You could probably improve efficiency by placing some sort of small directional splitter just after the nozzle. Or spray horizontally at least if the mist splitter idea gets too ugly/tricky.
Do we have some numbers in the results? Like 70c under load and 50c with the Spray? I had an saab which had am ambient temperature in intake aswell under less load.
@@JulianEdgar yes this is clear for me. I am asking for Numbers in the Vehicles you use with this system. Do we have drops from 5-10c or 20-30. Iam trying to calculate the estimate power gain of that.
Why cant you just use a Shurflo pump like the ones used in water/meth injection for intercooler misting. They are around 200psi and you can get ones that flow sufficiently
Damn I really need to make this happen but all the coffee machine pumps im looking at just have small plastic barbed connectors. How am I supposed to connect to a high pressure hose without using a hose clamp that will just blow off?
All the coffee machine pumps I have used have a barbed plastic connector for the inlet (fine) and a plastic outlet tube that is internally threaded to take a proper fitting.
@@JulianEdgar ahh great, internally threaded, this makes sense as to why it looked like a barb or plain tube. As far as switching goes what tends to work better a momentary or latching switch? Thanks very much for your help.
@@markhingst5368 For a good intercooler water spray controller, you need something with intelligence. I helped develop this one many years ago - www.elabtronics.com/intercooler_spray_controller.php Otherwise, a manual push button with timer works well - eg 20 seconds. Or you could use a normally open temp switch (say, 40 degrees C) on the core in series with a throttle position switch (say, over 80 per cent throttle).
Hi Julian, Awesome video and have loved your books over the years! I have purchased all the parts for this setup just waiting on the nozzle from the US. Tell me did you use a boost switch and a relay to turn the inverter on and off when required or also the combination of a solenoid? Any help much appreciated. Kenian
I don't know if it is the current part number but they used to be: 1/4 inch capacity size: 1, orifice diameter: 0.51, core number: 210 At a quick glace, I think Page D18 here - www.spray.com/Assets/SPRAY/CAT76AA_METRIC.pdf
@@JulianEdgar Thank you for the reply but I am afraid the link is not working any more. Let me know if you find that specific nozzle from this site pls.
Are these within the rules of most racing clubs? I can’t imagine the NASA or a similar organization would like spraying water on the track, even in these quantities.
I don't know if it is the current part number but they used to be: 1/4 inch capacity size: 1, orifice diameter: 0.51, core number: 210 At a quick glace, I think Page D18 here - www.spray.com/Assets/SPRAY/CAT76AA_METRIC.pdf
Julian Fair enough. That’s a LOT of effort though, when you can buy a cheap water injection kit and install on 0.2mm nozzle. I would bet it uses less water also and as it is directly cooling the air would drop IATs better also.
A single nozzle, constant flow water injection system is not something I'd ever run on one of my cars. Why? With that approach the water / air ratio varies with load (so either too much water at high loads and not enough at low loads, or vice versa) and the manifold now has to evenly flow a water/air mix, not just air as it was designed to (and of course any cylinder to cylinder variation in water is potentially catastrophic). A *proper* water injection system is nearly as costly as a complete fuel injection system.
Julian Not true. For boosted cars you adapt the map dependant on boost or MAP signal. $500 for a devils own kit OR $200 for a secondhand kit if you are patient. BUT this is not what I am talking about. You can get the cheapest kit from devils own that is on a simple boost switch. Meaning, for example, you set the switch to 10psi it start spraying. Now I’m not suggesting spraying in the intake (that’s a seperate discussion). I’m talking about cooling thing IAT’s. The water injection into the turbo evaporates completely and during the evaporatoration process takes the heat energy out of the air. But you can argue all day. I KNOW it works better than spraying the intercooler.
There're a few things you write that I don't agree with. First, a boost pressure triggered, single point water injection system has the problems I've already mentioned: variable water/air ratios and requiring the manifold to evenly flow a water/air mix to all cylinders. Second, a major way in which water injection systems work is that the water *doesn't* all evaporate; instead small water droplets pass into the combustion chamber and turn into steam there, having an anti-detonant effect. Third, when I did a back-to-back comparison of water injection versus water spray cooling of the intercooler, I actually recorded lower temps with the intercooler water spray. Same car, same road. Fourth, if you're happy to talk secondhand prices, I get my intercooler spray pumps for $0 (salvaged from old coffee machines), inverters are now available from $20, etc. Fifth, water injection in front of a turbo has been shown to erode compressor blades - so don't do that. Finally, I am actually a real fan of water injection but it is much cheaper, easier, safer and (in road cars) often more effective to use a really efficient spray on the intercooler than to use water injection. On the other hand, a *proper* water injection system (multi-point, variable flow) has great potential - as BMW showed on one of their road cars a few years ago.
I’ve built what you’ve recommended above. Can’t wait. Have to install the pump and electronics next. It has a pressure switch, manual spray button and timer set to 2seconds. I’ve found a washer tank tap from one of the WMI manufacturers.
Before I run this, I plan to kerosine wash my intercooler and use an HVAC fin cleaning solution on the exterior of my FMIC
Thanks for all your build tips.
Can you follow up with your results?
That was explained beautifully! Thanks! Will definitely will checkout your book.
What if instead of the intercooler I put it on the radiator? I have a car without a turbo 😅excellent videos, thank you very much for your channel 💯
Would a 50/50 mix of distilled water and alcohol be better ?
Just bought a 120psi 12v pump and the finest sprayer nozzles I could find. Will give this a go later this year... Manifold temps rarely go above ambient, and if they do its around 10⁰C maximum. But if i can keep it always at ambient, in summer or hard pulls, I'll be very happy. Intercooler is already shrouded, was a night and difference and cost literally pennies to do.
Sounds good. If the spray is good enough, it can in some weather conditions keep the intake temp *below* ambient!
@@JulianEdgar that would be really good if I get those results. I already chosen a considerably bigger and more efficient turbo than standard to keep air temperature pre intercooler lower, thus even lower after it than the standard setup. Makes more power at lower boost level, greater airflow with higher density than standard. And all with about the same spool time, 500rpm later. Might be able to gain it back with a proper boost controller with a 3 port solenoid. Wich is also in the plans along with the sprayer to complete the engine optimization.
The sprayer will be the icing on the cake.
Just got to test one nozzle on tap water pressure. Very fine mist, you can barely see the spay pattern unless the light is at the right angle. And has a water consumption of 2,5L/h, things are looking good.
@@escortturbo98can you provide the part numbers for the pump and sprayers? Really want to replicate it on my wrx
@@jonathanavilez8479 sure, I'll look into my history and get the links in a sec
Hi Julian, I am so glad I found your RUclips. I used to love your articles in FF and R all those years ago and very much enjoyed and got a lot of use out of Autospeed too. I was very disappointed when that closed down. Wish you great luck and success on youtube .
Awesome, thank you!
great video hope he does well on youtube
I think you could use a fog machine pump aswell 😉 This i must test before i build the H20 cooled intercooler 😉😁
Great video. Is there any risk of the moisture in the boosted air getting cooled to a point where it creates water droplets that go into the intake. I know Ford added a blocking plate on the latest Focus RS intercooler to prevent this exact water vapour formation happening. In cool, moist air do you think this may happen if conditions are conducive with the water spray on? Thanks
I don't think it would be an issue - why would you be running the spray in cool conditions? (And do you have a link that explains the blocking plate on the Ford RS?)
@@JulianEdgar if by mistake you run the sprayer or malfunction. This is the link ruclips.net/video/Rc6rAzazh5M/видео.html
Tell me what you think?
Thanks for the reply.
OK, so the blanking plate just reduces cooling airflow to the intercooler all the time. The situation of intake air condensation should never occur with a spray because it should be controlled so that it works only when the load and ambient temps are both high.
@@JulianEdgar ok perfect. Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated..
misting nozzles that are used on misting fans also work well and under $1 each, i have a youtube video of it
Very interesting.
What 12v pump do you thing would be the next best option so to remove a layer of complexity given from the ac inverter?
Thank you
Windshield washer pump
@@fastinradfordable no, Diafragm pump
You can get the Espresso/cappuccino machine pumps in 12v and 24v.....if you’re searching, you’ll return more hits with “12v espresso machine pump”
Thx. I found a good quality 24v im going to use with a converter. “ULKA MODEL:E TYPE:EX5 VIBRATORY PUMP 24V”
Hi Julian, Could drilling into the water tank clog the intake with plastic shavings? Is there a way to avoid this?
Wash out the tank after drilling into it?
Would a 0.1mm gardening misting spray work with the ulka pump?
Most garden nozzles are low quality plastic.
@@JulianEdgar this one has made of metal with ceramic tip with a filter. It creates a good cloud.. I will try it and let you know. One more doubt, the ulka pump only works for 2 minutes then stops for 1 minute, would a pump from the Italian brand, specifically ARS's cp6 model 220-230v 32watt motor work? Its a continuous pump
@@JulianEdgaronly reason I am asking is because I don't have access to the spraying systems company's products. I have attached 2 videos below any inputs are appreciated, the first link being the same type of nozzle that i purchased and the second video is of a nozzle that i found called an impaction pin ruby fog nozzle. It seems to be giving a huge cloud of water droplets which i think is also suitable for the application but would like your opinion too. Thanks
1) ruclips.net/user/shortsXmMciDLPHIs?si=IGIxgt14hAT5ATqn
2) ruclips.net/user/shortsMyc5FBwlnXA?si=XgSXByFhtwa0peKJ
If you could sell them as a complete set I would surely buy one
Hi Julian, great work, never thought about the importance of the pump! Just wondering how would you position the jets on a Top Mount Intercooler?
Best to do some testing of various nozzle positions (just taped into place) until you can see an even spray coverage over the core after the car's been in motion.
@@JulianEdgar thanks Julian. How did you connect everything together? I noticed the pump has a standard nipple outlet and not a screw connector for the high pressure hose.
@@briancoignet1229 I think you'll find the inlet is a nipple but the HP outlet is an internally threaded brass threaded fitting - 2:15 in video.
Would this be a viable option to use on a heat exchanger for an air to water intercooler?
Not really. The thermal mass in a water system means that it is slow to change temperature, so the spray would need to be running continuously - not what it is designed to do.
You've obviously tested it to be already beneficial, but with your forward facing nozzle, I have to imagine that at even moderate road speed the output from the nozzle is pushed back through a fairly small surface area of the intercooler core. A hood-mounted camera pointed into the scoop would provide evidence. You could probably improve efficiency by placing some sort of small directional splitter just after the nozzle. Or spray horizontally at least if the mist splitter idea gets too ugly/tricky.
Note sure how you come up with all that. I did check spray distribution by looking at area of core wetness and it was fine.
Do we have some numbers in the results? Like 70c under load and 50c with the Spray?
I had an saab which had am ambient temperature in intake aswell under less load.
Depends on how bad the current intercooler is, the ambient temperature and the relative humidity.
@@JulianEdgar yes this is clear for me. I am asking for Numbers in the Vehicles you use with this system. Do we have drops from 5-10c or 20-30.
Iam trying to calculate the estimate power gain of that.
@@nicoleibundgut534 Small intercooler but low boost, 30 degree C ambient, 25 per cent relative humidity, about 5-10 degree C decrease over no spray.
Why cant you just use a Shurflo pump like the ones used in water/meth injection for intercooler misting. They are around 200psi and you can get ones that flow sufficiently
Great info
Did you have issues with water leaking out of nozzles from gravity
The nozzles use check valves.
Damn I really need to make this happen but all the coffee machine pumps im looking at just have small plastic barbed connectors. How am I supposed to connect to a high pressure hose without using a hose clamp that will just blow off?
All the coffee machine pumps I have used have a barbed plastic connector for the inlet (fine) and a plastic outlet tube that is internally threaded to take a proper fitting.
@@JulianEdgar ahh great, internally threaded, this makes sense as to why it looked like a barb or plain tube. As far as switching goes what tends to work better a momentary or latching switch? Thanks very much for your help.
@@markhingst5368 For a good intercooler water spray controller, you need something with intelligence. I helped develop this one many years ago - www.elabtronics.com/intercooler_spray_controller.php Otherwise, a manual push button with timer works well - eg 20 seconds. Or you could use a normally open temp switch (say, 40 degrees C) on the core in series with a throttle position switch (say, over 80 per cent throttle).
Hi Julian, Awesome video and have loved your books over the years! I have purchased all the parts for this setup just waiting on the nozzle from the US. Tell me did you use a boost switch and a relay to turn the inverter on and off when required or also the combination of a solenoid? Any help much appreciated. Kenian
Thanks Kenian. I didn't use a solenoid - just turned the inverter on and off.
Great thanks. Can't wait to get this installed
Could anyone link me with a good quality nozzle for this application please?
I don't know if it is the current part number but they used to be: 1/4 inch capacity size: 1, orifice diameter: 0.51, core number: 210 At a quick glace, I think Page D18 here - www.spray.com/Assets/SPRAY/CAT76AA_METRIC.pdf
@@JulianEdgar Thank you for the reply but I am afraid the link is not working any more. Let me know if you find that specific nozzle from this site pls.
www.spray.com/-/media/dam/industrial/usa/sales-material/catalog/cat75hyd_metric_fine-spray_e.pdf Page E4 - LN (1/4 inch with integral strainer), Page E6 - capacity size 1
Are these within the rules of most racing clubs? I can’t imagine the NASA or a similar organization would like spraying water on the track, even in these quantities.
You'd obviously check that with the racing body.
hi Julian do you happen to have the spray nozzle part no
I don't know if it is the current part number but they used to be: 1/4 inch capacity size: 1, orifice diameter: 0.51, core number: 210 At a quick glace, I think Page D18 here - www.spray.com/Assets/SPRAY/CAT76AA_METRIC.pdf
I'm becoming fan of you.
Sure, but what about the front pressure that will make useless all this ?
Why would front airflow pressure make a spray useless? In fact, it will move the tiny water droplets through the intercooler core.
@@JulianEdgar I find that the air pressure and air velocity will prevent the formation of the tiny droplets.
@@cteodorbogdan I don't see why either pressure or velocity will impact atomisation.
Mc Geiver. I'm eyeballing my coffee maker and my pressure washer nozzle attachments
Don't forget you'll need a little inverter to run the pump!
Would a cigarette lighter power inverter be sufficient for the pump?
@@camlobesvtec Yes should be fine.
i found a diamond.Thank you
You are living in QLD
I was then, yes - about a decade ago now.
Just get a ‘devils own’ water/meth kit for $200. Inject into your ACTUAL air stream.
Then you don’t have to bother gathering all these parts.
Water injection has advantages and disadvantages, just as an intercooler water spray does. Neither approach is 'crap'.
Julian Fair enough. That’s a LOT of effort though, when you can buy a cheap water injection kit and install on 0.2mm nozzle. I would bet it uses less water also and as it is directly cooling the air would drop IATs better also.
A single nozzle, constant flow water injection system is not something I'd ever run on one of my cars. Why? With that approach the water / air ratio varies with load (so either too much water at high loads and not enough at low loads, or vice versa) and the manifold now has to evenly flow a water/air mix, not just air as it was designed to (and of course any cylinder to cylinder variation in water is potentially catastrophic). A *proper* water injection system is nearly as costly as a complete fuel injection system.
Julian Not true. For boosted cars you adapt the map dependant on boost or MAP signal. $500 for a devils own kit OR $200 for a secondhand kit if you are patient.
BUT this is not what I am talking about. You can get the cheapest kit from devils own that is on a simple boost switch. Meaning, for example, you set the switch to 10psi it start spraying.
Now I’m not suggesting spraying in the intake (that’s a seperate discussion). I’m talking about cooling thing IAT’s. The water injection into the turbo evaporates completely and during the evaporatoration process takes the heat energy out of the air.
But you can argue all day. I KNOW it works better than spraying the intercooler.
There're a few things you write that I don't agree with. First, a boost pressure triggered, single point water injection system has the problems I've already mentioned: variable water/air ratios and requiring the manifold to evenly flow a water/air mix to all cylinders. Second, a major way in which water injection systems work is that the water *doesn't* all evaporate; instead small water droplets pass into the combustion chamber and turn into steam there, having an anti-detonant effect. Third, when I did a back-to-back comparison of water injection versus water spray cooling of the intercooler, I actually recorded lower temps with the intercooler water spray. Same car, same road. Fourth, if you're happy to talk secondhand prices, I get my intercooler spray pumps for $0 (salvaged from old coffee machines), inverters are now available from $20, etc. Fifth, water injection in front of a turbo has been shown to erode compressor blades - so don't do that. Finally, I am actually a real fan of water injection but it is much cheaper, easier, safer and (in road cars) often more effective to use a really efficient spray on the intercooler than to use water injection. On the other hand, a *proper* water injection system (multi-point, variable flow) has great potential - as BMW showed on one of their road cars a few years ago.