Transport Evolved, my analysis on my 2018 Bolt with 56K miles is as follows: Maintenance: Tires @50k miles, $700 (I use all season year round despite a good amount of snow in CO), and bought from Discount Tires with free rotations. $100 for wiper blades and cabin air filter, and one tire rotation cost $20 (the primary service manager always gave it free, but a rookie service manager charged me on one visit). So, overall, $800 over 2 years. Operating Cost: I drive about 30K/yr, charge almost exclusively @home, and pay ~$.10/kWh. Occasional free L2 on the go, and minimal L3 so far. I have spent maybe $20 in public charging to this point. My previous car (Fusion Hybrid) ran $150+/month in fuel, prior car was Audi A6 Turbo, it cost at least $250/month in gas. Bolt, about $50/month, but with other power savings (LED bulbs, efficient appliances), I only average about $20-25 more in monthly electric costs. Purchase Price\Finance\Insurance: About the same as the Fusion I previously drove after tax rebates. Insurance is always costlier on newer cars than on depreciated cars, but comparing to when the fusion was new, not too different. My net price on the Fusion was north of $31K, on the Bolt, about $31.5k after tax incentives, so a wash. So, I figure I am already far ahead cost-wise with the Bolt vs prior cars or anything else I may have bought at the time. I expect to keep this long term as I am nearing retirement age, so resale and depreciation really don't mean anything to me. I expect that keeping this til 300K miles is not out of the question.
As a rough tidbit I was spending about $350-400 for gas per month. I bought my Kona EV in June 2019 and by the end of Dec 2020 I had used less than $500 in electricity for the six months.
GREAT VIDEO!! One caveat: Electricity is actually MORE EXPENSIVE than gasoline. This is why it is more expensive to heat a home with a standard resistance heating element than it is to burn climate-destroying gasoline to heat a home. However, electric vehicles are so extremely efficient with their use of electricity, they cost much less to travel in than a gasoline car, which wastes most of its energy as heat. And this video so aptly demonstrates this. Thank you for all you do, and please keep being your excellent self :-)
converting a hydrocarbon to kinetic energy is subject to the Carnot cycle. This is a basic thermodynamic principle. That conversion has a theoretical limit in a gasoline engine somewhere near 30%. No such conversion is necessary for electricity. So, battery derived conversion is over 90% efficient
@@epeon7 " theoretical limit in a gasoline engine somewhere near 30%" this is not right pleas look up the THEOERETICAL limit of converting heat in to work as defined by the Carnot cycle.
@@cuepusher2504 - it depends upon what you use as the Temperature of the cold reservoir and the hot reservoir. Rather then argue these points, most ICE are about 20 to 35% efficient in converting chemical energy to mechanical energy. Electric motors are over 90% converting electricity to mechanical energy
Of course it depends where you live, here in England petrol is usually about $1.50 a LITRE !!!!...right now though the bottoms dropped out of petrol so we are getting a litre for 99 pence so around $1.30, I charge my car for 5ppKw overnight so going electric is a no-brainer. Oddly enough this last Sunday we were paid 2ppKw to use electricity as they had so much capacity due to it being sunny and windy over here ...crazy times !!!!!
This is good real world example of ev demonstrating low cost reliability from simplicity. I think you do need to include insurance because the “equivalent” ice is about a third cheaper up front. The last item that needs discussion is taxes. Gas taxes pay for roads, Evs get subsidies. I know there are benefits from evs but bills must be paid. I even go a step further and consider the employment attributes. Your Bolt was built in the US by UAW workers $65/hr and healthcare so comprehensive it gets taxed under ACA. The Bolt was built in an existing factory Without the billions in incentives other makers extort from local governments and it supports a local dealership that pays local taxes and supports your community to the mfr. In the long run wages and taxes need to be paid.
We have a Smart ForTwo ED (electric) we purchased used. It gets about the same as you mentioned, 3.0 to 4.0 mi/kWh. We average about 3.6 to 3.8. Where I am KWH rates are about 10cents/kwh in Tennessee (TVA is the wholesale supplier) and we figure we use about $0.50 to $1.50 daily additional electricity daily, so say $30/mo. For the same driving I replaced a Nissan Murano (not a bad car, but getting older and we wanted a 'new to us' electric to dip our toes into the EV arena). We gave away the Murano (to Girl Scouts for use as a car on a camp). We paid under $7K for the Smart, with transport from Colorado, installing a 220v 60A circuit and getting a JuiceBox charger (we can't take full advantage of it, but it is still great), we totaled a little over $8K investment including infrastructure (circuit, juicebox, and transport of the car, and sales tax because it was from out of state). The Smart is a small but fun car. Range is truely 50 to 70 miles (cold using heater vs windows open travel). I am not small (300+lbs) and it carrys me easily even with wife and load of groceries. It has much more cargo area than I was expecting. For our around town car (which I was using the Murano for) the Smart is great. We put on about 500 miles a month. Shortly will be less once my wife retires. Service cost bout $20 replacing battery descant is a every 2 year maintenance and can be done easily at home. Insurance is basically the same as the Murano (both multi-year old used cars). We did replace tires, wear bars started showing on a couple, it was $400 for 4 with rotate/balance/hazard/etc at Discount tire. This car has 2 different sizes of tires on front/back. When people ask for comparison, and tell them that it caused me three to four cents per mild depending on how I drive, when I drove my Murano I got about 20 to 25 miles to the gallon. back in the days when gas was about $2.50 a gallon that would make it roughly $0.10 a mile. Things have changed currently but I still expect the price of fuel to go back up eventually. I'm sure that the price of electricity will rise to, but I think that overall for what I need for transportation the EV is a better choice.
It might not such a good case to compare to ICE to convert people denpending on their situation. I did the calculation for replacing our Niro with an e-Niro. We could save about €2.50/100km, but considering an e-Niro with the a similar trim level is about €12000 more expensive (€8000 for the small battery), it's far from cheaper.
The car is 3 years old. Most 3 year old cars are under warranty and cost about nothing except oil changes and wiper blades. I am growing very curious on what these cars are like when they are15 years OLD. I am currently driving a 2004 ICE motor. Change the oil tires brakes and throw a thousand in now and tough repairs. I can do the basics myself and have 200K plus on the car. What's the cost of door handles (had a handle snap off when the door FROZE shut trying to open)? Suspension parts? (yes ball joints tie rods go bad) Brakes? and at 15 years old what will the battery be like? I think EV's are VERY new. Are they disposable cars that just don't make it past 10 years? Heard that is what has already happened to some Tesla S cars where the battery needs service and Tesla wants 20K. Are you KIDDING?
2017 EV bolt purchased in Sept 2016. 34980 miles. No maintenance cost (tires, inspection, etc). 7.8 cents/kilowatt. 3.4 miles per kw. So 34980/3.4=10288kw * $0.078 = $802 for car cost thus far. I believe that math is correct.
I've had a Zoe three years. 19000 miles. Servicing less than £100 per year, 4 miles per kwh average and 13.6p per kwh electricity costs (green tariffs are some of the cheapest in the UK these days). (19000 / 4) x .136 = £646. I have only had to rapid charge five time so add £20 for that. Total cost about £966 or about $1178 at today's exchange rate. This is just over 5p per mile or 6 cents. My old car did 40 mpg. Assuming an average £1.20 per liter over that time (£5.44 per imperial gallon) we get (19000 / 40) x 5.44 = £2584 on fuel. Add in £300 per year servicing as an average and we get £3484. Per mile this is 18p per mile or about 22 cents. In addition in the UK EVs barely depreciate at present (very different to the US I know) and it has been incredibly inexpensive to own plus it is also a joy to drive.
@@PaulHawkins87 I bought the battery when I purchased the car. If I had leased the battery it would have been £5.5k less but by now I'd have spent £3K on leasing costs. The battery warranty is 8 years and no drop in range so far. I was fortunate in that huge discounts were available three years ago (I had a £6200 discount so it cost less than £18k even with metallic black paint). Dealers are still asking similar money for three year old cars similar to mine now (though non battery lease cars of that age are rare, battery lease not an option on the ZE50). Btw mine is a ZE40.
Electricity isn't actually cheaper than gas. Electric cars are just insanely more efficient. Using the figure of 11.5¢ that is the equivalent of $3.88 per gallon. Of course this doesn't take into account solar and all the other wonderful things about electricity.
@@jom7630 I know that good winter tires cost more than summer tires. I myself use very good studded tires (in Northern Europe). Nokian Hakkepellita (studded or studdless) tires for car this size just don't cost that much. Perhaps there is something related to taxes that make them so expensive. And I assume transporting them from Europe to USA should not add so much. Somebody linked the same Nokian tire in Bolt's dimensions and in Germany it was some 150€. So I imagine with all the shipping it could be max 200dollars? Or perhaps they are still different to European Nokian Hakkepellita tires? Perhaps some regulation about tires that makes them so expensive?
Last week, I compared the Kona EV (high end model) with the highest level Petrol Kona. Based on prices, costs and taxes in Switzerland. At purchase, the EV is about USD 15K more expensive. From my calculations, between lower road taxes, lower maintenance costs and lower energy costs, it still takes about 6 years to compensate the higher purchase cost. Unfortunately in Switzerland, there's no subsidy during the purchase of EV cars... PS: I didn't factor in the insurance costs, but I doubt the difference would be great.
If you want to buy your Bolt when the lease is up, you can negotiate (kind of). If the buy out on the lease is more than the price of an equivalent used Bolt, go to the dealer a couple of weeks before and tell them you want to buy it, but the buy out is too much. Print out an take with you the Blue Book and dealer ads showing sample prices. Tell them what your willing to pay. Tell them that they don't have to do anything to the car to frontline it. If they go for it, you return the car and immediately buy it for your price. The dealer has a guaranteed sale and doesn't have to do another than paperwork. Win-win. It worked for my sister. She got a car that she knew the history of at the price she wanted.
Returned a 2019 premier after 43278 miles to the dealer. Total cost for lease, new set of tires & (solar) electricity was $0.165 per mile. Including insurance ($1000/year and $450/year DMV in socal) was $0.25/mile. I have a second 2020 premier that should be even cheaper to drive. Total QC sessions: 5 times. Averaged 3.7 miles/kWh. Waiting for my F150 lightning probably this year.
2016 Kia Soul EV, traded a 2014 F-150 for it. I'm banking about $400 a month in fuel savings alone, monthly car payment went down about $40 too. I also shed about 70,000km off the odometer in the process. And, in 5-6 years I'm sure my next truck will be a (slightly used) sub $35K EV with about a 500km range. I'm not optimistic, but I am pulling for you, Ford.
Love the channel... I have a 2020 Chevy bolt which I love The price of ownership is definitely worth the cost of the vehicle. This is my first electric vehicle and I have seen a huge savings on it right now it offsets the car price... but I’ll look at it this way I’m not putting it into a tailpipe... Love the TV channel keep up the good work...
Excellent video on over all cost of EV ownership. As for myself personally, I committed by mostly bicycle before I purchased my first used Nissan Leaf. Compared to a bicycle, I can get places faster and can haul more gear. Another nice thing about owning a passenger car is I can give other people a ride who need it.
We've got a 15 year old sedan. The one I've previously mentioned regarding a 630 mile road-trip in 11 hours needing only 1 stop for fuel. 150,000 miles on the clock. Gets 30 mpg = 5000 gallons. $3.00/gal on average here (had a bit higher, as high as $4, currently it's around $1.50) so $15,000. Oil changes with filter twice a year plus air filter done myself $150/year - add $2250. Total so far $17,500. On its 3rd set of tires. Original set from new plus 2 replacements. $125/tire; $500 for the set; assume same price for mounting and balancing $1000 each time. Total now at $19,500. Brake job needed only once. Work done by this gal, so able to get better pads and rotors than stock replacements. $500 is current price (just looked up) for the parts. $20,000 so far. New shocks/struts needed. All four corners, even bought the spring compressor for doing the work myself, again under $500 (even at current prices). $20,500. Sundry other items, wiper blades, replacement headlamps and other bulbs, fresh set of spark plugs at 100K - let's round that total up to $25,000. That's a lot higher than it really is, but let's run with that number. 25K over 150,000 miles and 15 years. 16.7 cents per mile.
Let me just say, I'm sure someone's going to look at this post and may get the wrong impression. I'm not posting this to be an ass. I'm posting this to say that EVs need to get better. I'd like to see them succeed.
Don't purchase your lease return! Give it back to them, and purchase someone else's lease return with comparable miles from several thousand less than you will pay for your current car.
I recently bought a Bolt. The insurance is considerably higher than the 2 ICE vehicles and the Leaf that are on the same policy. Small point but, the cost of electricity and the cost to drive on electricity are two different things. Electricity is not less than gas currently on a cost per BTU. It tacks approximately 33.7 kwh of energy to equal the energy in gallon of gas. At $.115 per kwh that's about $3.88 for the energy in a gallon of gas, much higher than the $1.25 now on the corner up the road. At $.25 per kwh to comes to about $8.42 for a gallons worth of energy. Electricity is not cheaper than gas on a cost per equal energy basis. 3.2 miles per kwh seams low. My Bolt is running about 4 miles per kwh currently, but only in good weather so far and no trips. My two previous Leafs had multi year averages of 4.2 miles per kwh over years of driving. I hope my Bolt does better than 3.2 miles or I will be disappointed.
I put 52k miles in one year $500 on tires and windshield washer fluid x4 $4 charging free 95% time spent $350 a year charging at fast chargers and around $300 at home for the entire year . Not bad at all - 🤞🏼 car will last over 250k
2018 Zoe, €120 pa road tax, free AC charging in Ireland, insurance €360, annual service €80, 0% apr finance. Total savings of circa €2,500 per annum towards my 2021 Zoe 50 ✨
$410 PER TIRE!? Whoa whoa whoa whoa....there is something to consider here. You can get 215/50-17's for less than $80 each all day long. (Just pick up a donut spare since they won't be run-flat). $1,600+ for a new set of tires is beyond preposterous on an economy car. I just want people to be aware that there are far, FAR more economical options. The most expensive tires TireRack sells for the Bolt are Michelins for $205 each. Just a heads up for anyone wondering.
In Britain, to keep up warranties, an own is still required to have the vehicle serviced every year. And while there’s less to actual do, the dealers’ quoted price per service, is still no cheaper than servicing an ICE’d vehicle.
I have a Bolt with 30,000 miles on it. I have free charging at my apartment complex and no maintenance costs (so far). So besides the loan (now paid off), insurance, and taxes, I've only paid for DC fast charging.
John, I'm the same as you...37,000 in 18 months, I rotate my own tires, refill my own windscreen washer bottle and while I do charge at home in an EV2A rate from my local energy provider the running costs are so low that I'm VERY happy.
Uncle Sam estimates that it costs 54.5 cents per mile to run the average gasoline car, so 36 cents per mile is a savings. As for tires, I used to work with a guy who raced stock cars on weekends. His advice was always spend your money on good tires. They move you, they turn you and they stop you, so the extra cost is worth it.
The comments below fall mainly under the heading of tires...so here's a question. Stock tires on my 37,000 mile Bolt are Michelin 215/50ZR17 (low rolling resistance, self sealing tires). Putting on a different tire 'may' reduce the miles per kW. Comments?
Hello, I have a 2019 bolt tl, I have the car for 2.6 years, I drive 18,626 and I rent a garage for the last 4 years, and I charge the car there, at 110v 8amps, no problems and no worries for some times don't drive with the full charge (Normally I never drive 200 miles a day, and second I know I can use if I need a fast charging station, so really no rush. I have set the maximum charge of the car to 82% and I change that wen I know I go for a long trip), I have the garage for the stuff I use for work, and no extra cost for me. I have to replace the engine splash ward because I find a branch in the meddle of the road, cost me $196.19 I just replace the 4 tires because the original tires wearer out. Cost me $642.19 the full set with warranty, rotation for life and warranties. I have to charge in fast stations but all the 3 times was free. The alighment cost me $140.00 . So the total cost of operation per mile is $0.53 IS NO INCREDIBLE??? Less foot print!!
Total cost of maintenance for our 2016 e-Golf (March onwards): $55 for OEM wiper blades and $160 for two new tires (New Jersey roads!). Since we only drive 6,000 miles per year and charge almost exclusively at home, the fuel cost is almost negligible. Of course, there's nothing you can do about teenage offspring drivers (ouch!) and VW/Verizon Car-Net was a disaster for Android users last year and into 2020 (grrrr!). Anyhoo, so far, so good -- but now that I've posted this, something is bound to go wrong.
@@transportevolved if you are at Canada yes but in US we pay $200 per tire out there the government sucks the tax for importation for car parts it's way to high specially tires.
@@transportevolved Here in Germany, one tire of Nokian Hakkapeliitta R3 - 215/50 R 17 95 R XL - for Chevrolet Bolt is 147.25 EUR (19% sales tax already included!). www.reifenleader.de/autoreifen/nokian/hakkapeliitta-r3/215-50-r17-95r-978455 Probably you got tires and rims. Still, some dealer ripped you off.
@@transportevolved Unless that included wheels, someone must be overcharging you. Nokian Hakka R3s in 215/50-17 cost $234.00 CAD each out here in Halifax.
How much are you paying to buy out the lease? If the lease buy out is more than the kbb trade in value, you may be able to negotiate the price down with the leasing rep. You can also negotiate away any end of lease fees they hide in there. Just make sure you don’t seem to eager to buy it out with the leasing rep! Good luck!
Do you have a level II charger at home ? I am driving a leased 2019 Bolt.--the lease will be over at the end of OCT. 2022. Looks like with COVID I will be way under my 36,000 free miles. What many viewers may not know is that one can lease a 2020 Bolt Premiere--with no tax rebate at all--for a little over $350 per month and about 1700 down for tax, title, and license and first payment. The dealers are giving rather steep discounts.. That is a really good deal on a car that lists for more than $42,000. Go to the Chevy website and build yourself a Bolt and you will see. I pay State Farm about $402 every 6 months for $500 and $500 deductible. Annual license renewal is about $450 a year.
We purchased a 2020 Bolt Premier, at the end of March. I do most of my charging at home, using a Clipper Creek HCS-40P, that I had installed last summer. I am having a hard time calculating the cost of charging, because I am so poor at math. BUT, Your $100 per month car insurance sounds VERY high. I pay $468 per year to insure the Bolt, with $500,000 in liability coverage; and $1,000 deductibles for both collision and comprehensive coverage. I live just west of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and my wife and I are both over 55. You should shop around for coverage. For years, I was paying a lot more for coverage, because I just used the same agent who had inherited the business from her father, and my parents used her father as an agent, starting in the 1960's. It pays to shop around for insurance.
Prius is cheaper $0.052 per mile and cheaper insurance. $2.55 per gallon gas and getting 50miles per gallon but mine really gets 54miles per gallon on San Francisco and getting 60-65miles on no uphill.
I just bought a 2017 bolt. My range seems much less than claimed. I drove 139 miles and had 3 /20 bars left. Looks like I can only go 170 miles. I am a very experienced ev driver. No goosing it. Any other observations.
Over $400 per tire? That's more than I paid for my 2000 chrysler cirrus AND the part that I needed to get it back on the road when I bought it 5 years ago. Gonna be a long time before the used EV market gets down to my price range.
@@transportevolved If I recall, that's more than the cost of the winter tires we have on the ford expeditions I drive for work. Sure, we don't buy the most expensive, but I drive all over North Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin on those tires without any trouble at all. You must really not trust yourself or that car in winter to justify spending that much to yourself.
About to put Yoshimura pipe on my i3. I’m looking forward to the power boost for the generator. Imagine being able to control the throttle and rev the REX 🤣 .......I’m not but I wonder if someone has. I did install a hitch and added 4-pin connector for trailer wiring though. It does great on the dump runs and going riding on my Dirtbike.
Very well delivered video, thanks for sharing the information. A comparison with an ICE Chevy would have highlight the benefits of EVs. Please, we know we can get sentimental, attached to cars but in six months you can surely get a better deal for a newest EV, leasing or buying it. For your own good do not buy that Bolt, it is not convenient economically
My 2017 Bolt costs me 2.5 cents per mile to drive locally, and around 6.5 cents per mile on road trips. In Arkansas we pay an extra $200 a year on car registration because we're not paying road tax on fuel... Road tax in Arkansas would be around $100 in a gas guzzling ICE car. Politicians don't care about reality though.
It's not just Arkansas. Washington charges EV drivers a extra registration fee to cover the road tax roughly equivalent to 15,000 miles worth of gas per year at 30 MPG. This is already more in road tax than a high-efficiency gas car pays. And, if you drive less than 15,000 miles per year, you don't get any discount, so your road tax per mile is even higher. The good news though, is that road taxes are just a tiny portion of the total cost of ownership for any car, so it doesn't really make much difference in the scheme of things.
3.2 mi/kWh in a Bolt seems very low. The only time I've ever experienced trips with an efficiency like that is highway driving in the winter. At the other extreme, city driving in perfect 70 degree temperatures actually gets me just over 6 mi/kWh, which is pretty incredible. I would guess my 4-season overall average to be around 3.8-4 mi/kWh. But, unless you're doing a lot of driving at 75-80 mph, an average of 3.2 seems pretty pessimistic.
I like this stuff because I am very thorough. You would have to include depreciation. I have to own a truck for my needs so I did these types of calculations every 3 years. With depreciation included the Tacoma is the cheapest truck to own when you factor everything in over a 3 year term. In fact it comes very close per mile for what you paid to own your Bolt. I am foaming at the mouth waiting for an electric truck so I can do this analysis. Cars dont hold their value like trucks do especially a Tacoma.
You have to include the cost of payments and insurance. I on'y have collision and my 2007 car is paid for. I would love to have an EV, but I have to drive over 200 miles at times. On the other hand the 20K miles I drive a year does not have enough fuel savings to justify an electric car.
Anyone able to tell me why insurance is so expensive in the US? In some cities it's as much as $6000 a year, with an average across the US around $1700. I'm in the UK and my Porsche is only $366 a year... (converted)
Just curious, what is the residual value on your lease? I am thinking of leasing a Bolt and wanted to get an idea of what it would cost to buy it at the end of the lease if I decide to keep it. Thanks. FYI - you have a lot of great content, I "like" all Bolt videos, and I have subscribed.
My 2016 Toyota Prius gives me 50 to 55mpg still after 145k miles in US I changed filter and spark plus i spend $360 to $380 per year for every 7k miles I drove so its actually better lasting car then any other chevy or Tesla or Nissan electric cars ! So I'm not sure why the heck people spend 30k up to 50k for small compact car when you can buy Toyota prius for $22k up to $28k fully loaded car!
I have a 2018 Toyota Prius Prime and a 2017 Chevy Bolt both have things I like and don't like. I have never put gas in my Bolt and paid $16,900 on a lease return with 26K miles on it, Premier Package. They can cost less if you are not against used vehicles. The biggest thing I like about my Bolt it drives like my motorcycle as my Prius drives like my bicycle after the charge is gone in 30 miles (being generous here).
@@wt5381 your prius prime used battery cost less then $2k to replace the Chevy the worst GM cars cheaply made they are having recalls left and right for Chevy Bolt as usual they all have problems after 120k miles you can't even find Chevy bolt battery for cheap it's probably going to cost you around $4k for used or 5k brand new prius is making 5 generation of hybrid cars over 20 years your Chevy is hardly even 4 years new technology that will fail over and over until they gain experience like Tesla
Use a spreadsheet like this to do the calculation. It is much easier to compare ICE versus Electric docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kIYlSspVmNZvfDgBEaU68thJ2uY4P0EyHp0ygX0qp2Q/edit
@@transportevolved well, the name is ridiculously pretentious enough to go at least part way to justifying the price tag! I still think they saw you coming.......!!
you guys stating low 10 cents per kwh are you dividing your total bill by monthly kwh meter usage? please remember the kwh usage per month has generation charge and distribution plus other fees. my electric bill will probably be less than 400kwh added per month which may be a bit less than 60 bucks. in summer i expect the usage to drop not using the heat. just remember if the dash says 9kwh used it will probably use 12kwh till it stops pulling amps.
@@transportevolved Here in Germany, one tire of Nokian Hakkapeliitta R3 - 215/50 R 17 95 R XL - for Chevrolet Bolt is 147.25 EUR (19% sales tax already included!). www.reifenleader.de/autoreifen/nokian/hakkapeliitta-r3/215-50-r17-95r-978455 Probably you got tires and rims. Still, some dealer ripped you off.
So 48,000mi driven / 3.2mi/kWh -> 15,000kWh * $0.115/kWh -> $1,725 Oh just for kicks let's see how much that would have cost me - our I-pace 48,000mi / 2.5mi/kWh -> 19,200kWh * €0.34/kWh -> €6,528 (about $7,000) - our Niro 48,000mi * 10.4L/100mi(6.5l/100km) -> 4,992L * €1.25/L -> €6240 (about $6,700) - theoretical Niro-EV 48,000mi / 3.7mi/kWh -> 12,972kWh * €0.34/kWh -> €4,410 (about $4.750) I'm not so sure an EV is cheaper for me to run than an ICE. Considering that an e-Niro would cost us €8,000-12,000 more and we only save about €2,000 in fuel. The I-pace is most definatly more expensive to run (no surprise there). Why is it so expensive for us? We have no off-street parking, so only public charging and public charging in Belgium is expensive (Level 2: €0.34-0.48/kWh, DC ~€0.70/kWh).
aclassmedicine that’s the bumper to bumper warranty. 3 years 36k Your probably thinking of drivetrain which would be 8 years 100k according to Chevy site
Rav4 2012 love to death 130,000 mils so far, but 2005 prius far cheaper to operate 230,000 miles and infinitely more serviceable. $ 0.25 kWh seem optimistically low and down right illegal in some of the places in aMerica I'v traveled. And don't forget the cost of the pesky R.F.I.D. card subscription which make it impossible to know your energy cost wen you travel. coin-operated would by ezzyer to understand and better maintained. We got a long way to go but we'l get there.
That is just false information. Now let’s look at claims these vehicles save money based on USA prices. Keep in mind you are not paying any state or federal road taxes at this time but that is about to change. First the Bolt EV vehicles are around 20,000 more than a comparable sized gas model and a comparable gas model is a Corolla in the 18k to 20k range. The average EV driver goes 3.5 miles per KWh summer and winter driving. A comparable gas vehicle averages around 31.5 MPG in all seasons driving.
The cost is too high even from the outset. EV are still impractical and inaccessible to around 75% of the current uk population, and while I would own like a shot, those that cannot afford to buy a new one. Most do not have actually anywhere to charge one and are stuck with a traditional fossil fuel vehicle and are getting penalised accordingly. And if you want to be totally naive and shallow there is no EV that actually looks good
Transport Evolved, my analysis on my 2018 Bolt with 56K miles is as follows:
Maintenance:
Tires @50k miles, $700 (I use all season year round despite a good amount of snow in CO), and bought from Discount Tires with free rotations.
$100 for wiper blades and cabin air filter, and one tire rotation cost $20 (the primary service manager always gave it free, but a rookie service manager charged me on one visit).
So, overall, $800 over 2 years.
Operating Cost:
I drive about 30K/yr, charge almost exclusively @home, and pay ~$.10/kWh. Occasional free L2 on the go, and minimal L3 so far. I have spent maybe $20 in public charging to this point.
My previous car (Fusion Hybrid) ran $150+/month in fuel, prior car was Audi A6 Turbo, it cost at least $250/month in gas.
Bolt, about $50/month, but with other power savings (LED bulbs, efficient appliances), I only average about $20-25 more in monthly electric costs.
Purchase Price\Finance\Insurance:
About the same as the Fusion I previously drove after tax rebates. Insurance is always costlier on newer cars than on depreciated cars, but comparing to when the fusion was new, not too different. My net price on the Fusion was north of $31K, on the Bolt, about $31.5k after tax incentives, so a wash.
So, I figure I am already far ahead cost-wise with the Bolt vs prior cars or anything else I may have bought at the time. I expect to keep this long term as I am nearing retirement age, so resale and depreciation really don't mean anything to me. I expect that keeping this til 300K miles is not out of the question.
My '18 Bolt EV has been perfect. 12,000 miles and all I have had to do was rotate the tires once.
As a rough tidbit I was spending about $350-400 for gas per month. I bought my Kona EV in June 2019 and by the end of Dec 2020 I had used less than $500 in electricity for the six months.
GREAT VIDEO!! One caveat: Electricity is actually MORE EXPENSIVE than gasoline. This is why it is more expensive to heat a home with a standard resistance heating element than it is to burn climate-destroying gasoline to heat a home. However, electric vehicles are so extremely efficient with their use of electricity, they cost much less to travel in than a gasoline car, which wastes most of its energy as heat. And this video so aptly demonstrates this. Thank you for all you do, and please keep being your excellent self :-)
converting a hydrocarbon to kinetic energy is subject to the Carnot cycle. This is a basic thermodynamic principle. That conversion has a theoretical limit in a gasoline engine somewhere near 30%. No such conversion is necessary for electricity. So, battery derived conversion is over 90% efficient
@@epeon7 " theoretical limit in a gasoline engine somewhere near 30%" this is not right pleas look up the THEOERETICAL limit of converting heat in to work as defined by the Carnot cycle.
@@cuepusher2504 - it depends upon what you use as the Temperature of the cold reservoir and the hot reservoir. Rather then argue these points, most ICE are about 20 to 35% efficient in converting chemical energy to mechanical energy. Electric motors are over 90% converting electricity to mechanical energy
Of course it depends where you live, here in England petrol is usually about $1.50 a LITRE !!!!...right now though the bottoms dropped out of petrol so we are getting a litre for 99 pence so around $1.30, I charge my car for 5ppKw overnight so going electric is a no-brainer. Oddly enough this last Sunday we were paid 2ppKw to use electricity as they had so much capacity due to it being sunny and windy over here ...crazy times !!!!!
You have not considered geothermal.
This is good real world example of ev demonstrating low cost reliability from simplicity. I think you do need to include insurance because the “equivalent” ice is about a third cheaper up front. The last item that needs discussion is taxes. Gas taxes pay for roads, Evs get subsidies. I know there are benefits from evs but bills must be paid.
I even go a step further and consider the employment attributes. Your Bolt was built in the US by UAW workers $65/hr and healthcare so comprehensive it gets taxed under ACA. The Bolt was built in an existing factory Without the billions in incentives other makers extort from local governments and it supports a local dealership that pays local taxes and supports your community to the mfr.
In the long run wages and taxes need to be paid.
We have a Smart ForTwo ED (electric) we purchased used. It gets about the same as you mentioned, 3.0 to 4.0 mi/kWh. We average about 3.6 to 3.8. Where I am KWH rates are about 10cents/kwh in Tennessee (TVA is the wholesale supplier) and we figure we use about $0.50 to $1.50 daily additional electricity daily, so say $30/mo. For the same driving I replaced a Nissan Murano (not a bad car, but getting older and we wanted a 'new to us' electric to dip our toes into the EV arena). We gave away the Murano (to Girl Scouts for use as a car on a camp). We paid under $7K for the Smart, with transport from Colorado, installing a 220v 60A circuit and getting a JuiceBox charger (we can't take full advantage of it, but it is still great), we totaled a little over $8K investment including infrastructure (circuit, juicebox, and transport of the car, and sales tax because it was from out of state).
The Smart is a small but fun car. Range is truely 50 to 70 miles (cold using heater vs windows open travel). I am not small (300+lbs) and it carrys me easily even with wife and load of groceries. It has much more cargo area than I was expecting. For our around town car (which I was using the Murano for) the Smart is great. We put on about 500 miles a month. Shortly will be less once my wife retires.
Service cost bout $20 replacing battery descant is a every 2 year maintenance and can be done easily at home. Insurance is basically the same as the Murano (both multi-year old used cars). We did replace tires, wear bars started showing on a couple, it was $400 for 4 with rotate/balance/hazard/etc at Discount tire. This car has 2 different sizes of tires on front/back.
When people ask for comparison, and tell them that it caused me three to four cents per mild depending on how I drive, when I drove my Murano I got about 20 to 25 miles to the gallon. back in the days when gas was about $2.50 a gallon that would make it roughly $0.10 a mile. Things have changed currently but I still expect the price of fuel to go back up eventually. I'm sure that the price of electricity will rise to, but I think that overall for what I need for transportation the EV is a better choice.
Could you do a comparison with a similarly capable ICE car? The best way to get people to use EV cars is to make it cheaper than using ICE.
It might not such a good case to compare to ICE to convert people denpending on their situation.
I did the calculation for replacing our Niro with an e-Niro.
We could save about €2.50/100km, but considering an e-Niro with the a similar trim level is about €12000 more expensive (€8000 for the small battery), it's far from cheaper.
@@ridingwolf42 here In USA you can save a lot by driving a used EV.
The car is 3 years old. Most 3 year old cars are under warranty and cost about nothing except oil changes and wiper blades.
I am growing very curious on what these cars are like when they are15 years OLD. I am currently driving a 2004 ICE motor. Change the oil tires brakes and throw a thousand in now and tough repairs. I can do the basics myself and have 200K plus on the car. What's the cost of door handles (had a handle snap off when the door FROZE shut trying to open)? Suspension parts? (yes ball joints tie rods go bad) Brakes? and at 15 years old what will the battery be like? I think EV's are VERY new. Are they disposable cars that just don't make it past 10 years? Heard that is what has already happened to some Tesla S cars where the battery needs service and Tesla wants 20K. Are you KIDDING?
2017 EV bolt purchased in Sept 2016. 34980 miles. No maintenance cost (tires, inspection, etc). 7.8 cents/kilowatt. 3.4 miles per kw. So 34980/3.4=10288kw * $0.078 = $802 for car cost thus far. I believe that math is correct.
I've had a Zoe three years. 19000 miles. Servicing less than £100 per year, 4 miles per kwh average and 13.6p per kwh electricity costs (green tariffs are some of the cheapest in the UK these days). (19000 / 4) x .136 = £646. I have only had to rapid charge five time so add £20 for that. Total cost about £966 or about $1178 at today's exchange rate. This is just over 5p per mile or 6 cents. My old car did 40 mpg. Assuming an average £1.20 per liter over that time (£5.44 per imperial gallon) we get (19000 / 40) x 5.44 = £2584 on fuel. Add in £300 per year servicing as an average and we get £3484. Per mile this is 18p per mile or about 22 cents. In addition in the UK EVs barely depreciate at present (very different to the US I know) and it has been incredibly inexpensive to own plus it is also a joy to drive.
What about the battery lease?
@@PaulHawkins87 I bought the battery when I purchased the car. If I had leased the battery it would have been £5.5k less but by now I'd have spent £3K on leasing costs. The battery warranty is 8 years and no drop in range so far. I was fortunate in that huge discounts were available three years ago (I had a £6200 discount so it cost less than £18k even with metallic black paint). Dealers are still asking similar money for three year old cars similar to mine now (though non battery lease cars of that age are rare, battery lease not an option on the ZE50). Btw mine is a ZE40.
Electricity isn't actually cheaper than gas. Electric cars are just insanely more efficient. Using the figure of 11.5¢ that is the equivalent of $3.88 per gallon. Of course this doesn't take into account solar and all the other wonderful things about electricity.
33.7 kWh = 1 U.S. gallon
Don't rapid charge using ionity chargers, some people been stung here, an E-Tron costs $55 to partially charge using ionity here...
Can you explain why you are spending $410 per tire ?!?!
That sounds like the cost of replacing the set of 4.
Some folks are more picky about tires than I am. I use Discount Tire and they are pretty near me. Have used them for 30+ years.
Same question. Car this big should have a set of tires at about 400dollars.
Winter tires cost a lot, especially great tires like Nokian. Cheap summer tires are indeed around 400 for the set
This^ I have used those tires on rally cars and they dont cost anywhere near that.
@@jom7630 I know that good winter tires cost more than summer tires. I myself use very good studded tires (in Northern Europe). Nokian Hakkepellita (studded or studdless) tires for car this size just don't cost that much. Perhaps there is something related to taxes that make them so expensive. And I assume transporting them from Europe to USA should not add so much. Somebody linked the same Nokian tire in Bolt's dimensions and in Germany it was some 150€. So I imagine with all the shipping it could be max 200dollars?
Or perhaps they are still different to European Nokian Hakkepellita tires? Perhaps some regulation about tires that makes them so expensive?
Last week, I compared the Kona EV (high end model) with the highest level Petrol Kona. Based on prices, costs and taxes in Switzerland. At purchase, the EV is about USD 15K more expensive.
From my calculations, between lower road taxes, lower maintenance costs and lower energy costs, it still takes about 6 years to compensate the higher purchase cost. Unfortunately in Switzerland, there's no subsidy during the purchase of EV cars...
PS: I didn't factor in the insurance costs, but I doubt the difference would be great.
It would be really interesting to see how this turns out after 15 or 20 years. Please keep this car as long as possible!
If you want to buy your Bolt when the lease is up, you can negotiate (kind of). If the buy out on the lease is more than the price of an equivalent used Bolt, go to the dealer a couple of weeks before and tell them you want to buy it, but the buy out is too much. Print out an take with you the Blue Book and dealer ads showing sample prices. Tell them what your willing to pay. Tell them that they don't have to do anything to the car to frontline it. If they go for it, you return the car and immediately buy it for your price. The dealer has a guaranteed sale and doesn't have to do another than paperwork. Win-win. It worked for my sister. She got a car that she knew the history of at the price she wanted.
Returned a 2019 premier after 43278 miles to the dealer. Total cost for lease, new set of tires & (solar) electricity was $0.165 per mile. Including insurance ($1000/year and $450/year DMV in socal) was $0.25/mile. I have a second 2020 premier that should be even cheaper to drive. Total QC sessions: 5 times. Averaged 3.7 miles/kWh. Waiting for my F150 lightning probably this year.
Nice to have that broken down so well. Thank you.
2016 Kia Soul EV, traded a 2014 F-150 for it. I'm banking about $400 a month in fuel savings alone, monthly car payment went down about $40 too. I also shed about 70,000km off the odometer in the process. And, in 5-6 years I'm sure my next truck will be a (slightly used) sub $35K EV with about a 500km range. I'm not optimistic, but I am pulling for you, Ford.
Love the channel... I have a 2020 Chevy bolt which I love The price of ownership is definitely worth the cost of the vehicle. This is my first electric vehicle and I have seen a huge savings on it right now it offsets the car price... but I’ll look at it this way I’m not putting it into a tailpipe... Love the TV channel keep up the good work...
Excellent video on over all cost of EV ownership. As for myself personally, I committed by mostly bicycle before I purchased my first used Nissan Leaf. Compared to a bicycle, I can get places faster and can haul more gear. Another nice thing about owning a passenger car is I can give other people a ride who need it.
I do wish they would bring the Bolt over to the UK, it would give the Renault Zoe a run for its money !!
We've got a 15 year old sedan. The one I've previously mentioned regarding a 630 mile road-trip in 11 hours needing only 1 stop for fuel.
150,000 miles on the clock. Gets 30 mpg = 5000 gallons. $3.00/gal on average here (had a bit higher, as high as $4, currently it's around $1.50) so $15,000.
Oil changes with filter twice a year plus air filter done myself $150/year - add $2250. Total so far $17,500.
On its 3rd set of tires. Original set from new plus 2 replacements. $125/tire; $500 for the set; assume same price for mounting and balancing $1000 each time. Total now at $19,500.
Brake job needed only once. Work done by this gal, so able to get better pads and rotors than stock replacements. $500 is current price (just looked up) for the parts. $20,000 so far.
New shocks/struts needed. All four corners, even bought the spring compressor for doing the work myself, again under $500 (even at current prices). $20,500.
Sundry other items, wiper blades, replacement headlamps and other bulbs, fresh set of spark plugs at 100K - let's round that total up to $25,000. That's a lot higher than it really is, but let's run with that number.
25K over 150,000 miles and 15 years. 16.7 cents per mile.
Let me just say, I'm sure someone's going to look at this post and may get the wrong impression. I'm not posting this to be an ass. I'm posting this to say that EVs need to get better. I'd like to see them succeed.
The last time I was this early, we could go outside without a mask
Congrats, snowflake
"snowflake" really? I think you might be reading something into my completely innocuous "early" comment that isn't there...
Don't purchase your lease return! Give it back to them, and purchase someone else's lease return with comparable miles from several thousand less than you will pay for your current car.
I recently bought a Bolt. The insurance is considerably higher than the 2 ICE vehicles and the Leaf that are on the same policy. Small point but, the cost of electricity and the cost to drive on electricity are two different things. Electricity is not less than gas currently on a cost per BTU. It tacks approximately 33.7 kwh of energy to equal the energy in gallon of gas. At $.115 per kwh that's about $3.88 for the energy in a gallon of gas, much higher than the $1.25 now on the corner up the road. At $.25 per kwh to comes to about $8.42 for a gallons worth of energy. Electricity is not cheaper than gas on a cost per equal energy basis. 3.2 miles per kwh seams low. My Bolt is running about 4 miles per kwh currently, but only in good weather so far and no trips. My two previous Leafs had multi year averages of 4.2 miles per kwh over years of driving. I hope my Bolt does better than 3.2 miles or I will be disappointed.
My Bolt was cheap to insure in UT. It must be a regional phenomenon.
I put 52k miles in one year $500 on tires and windshield washer fluid x4 $4 charging free 95% time spent $350 a year charging at fast chargers and around $300 at home for the entire year . Not bad at all - 🤞🏼 car will last over 250k
Bought a 2021 Kona EV… best car I ever owned!
2018 Zoe, €120 pa road tax, free AC charging in Ireland, insurance €360, annual service €80, 0% apr finance. Total savings of circa €2,500 per annum towards my 2021 Zoe 50 ✨
Battery lease??
$410 PER TIRE!? Whoa whoa whoa whoa....there is something to consider here.
You can get 215/50-17's for less than $80 each all day long. (Just pick up a donut spare since they won't be run-flat).
$1,600+ for a new set of tires is beyond preposterous on an economy car. I just want people to be aware that there are far, FAR more economical options.
The most expensive tires TireRack sells for the Bolt are Michelins for $205 each. Just a heads up for anyone wondering.
In Britain, to keep up warranties, an own is still required to have the vehicle serviced every year. And while there’s less to actual do, the dealers’ quoted price per service, is still no cheaper than servicing an ICE’d vehicle.
I have a Bolt with 30,000 miles on it. I have free charging at my apartment complex and no maintenance costs (so far). So besides the loan (now paid off), insurance, and taxes, I've only paid for DC fast charging.
John, I'm the same as you...37,000 in 18 months, I rotate my own tires, refill my own windscreen washer bottle and while I do charge at home in an EV2A rate from my local energy provider the running costs are so low that I'm VERY happy.
Uncle Sam estimates that it costs 54.5 cents per mile to run the average gasoline car, so 36 cents per mile is a savings. As for tires, I used to work with a guy who raced stock cars on weekends. His advice was always spend your money on good tires. They move you, they turn you and they stop you, so the extra cost is worth it.
Yippee , real postings and information on ownership . So many channels waffle thanks for a concise and happy wee face .
The comments below fall mainly under the heading of tires...so here's a question. Stock tires on my 37,000 mile Bolt are Michelin 215/50ZR17 (low rolling resistance, self sealing tires). Putting on a different tire 'may' reduce the miles per kW. Comments?
Hello, I have a 2019 bolt tl, I have the car for 2.6 years, I drive 18,626 and I rent a garage for the last 4 years, and I charge the car there, at 110v 8amps, no problems and no worries for some times don't drive with the full charge (Normally I never drive 200 miles a day, and second I know I can use if I need a fast charging station, so really no rush. I have set the maximum charge of the car to 82% and I change that wen I know I go for a long trip), I have the garage for the stuff I use for work, and no extra cost for me. I have to replace the engine splash ward because I find a branch in the meddle of the road, cost me $196.19 I just replace the 4 tires because the original tires wearer out. Cost me $642.19 the full set with warranty, rotation for life and warranties. I have to charge in fast stations but all the 3 times was free. The alighment cost me $140.00 . So the total cost of operation per mile is $0.53 IS NO INCREDIBLE??? Less foot print!!
$100 per month? US insurance is insane, I pay less than £300 per year, for full comprehensive insurance.
Total cost of maintenance for our 2016 e-Golf (March onwards): $55 for OEM wiper blades and $160 for two new tires (New Jersey roads!). Since we only drive 6,000 miles per year and charge almost exclusively at home, the fuel cost is almost negligible. Of course, there's nothing you can do about teenage offspring drivers (ouch!) and VW/Verizon Car-Net was a disaster for Android users last year and into 2020 (grrrr!). Anyhoo, so far, so good -- but now that I've posted this, something is bound to go wrong.
Oh wait -- we had to spend $26 on a tire repair too.
Don't even want to think about the $$$$ we spent on our Toyota Camry Solara before we got the EV and donated the Toyota to WNET -- ugh!
$400 per tire? that's too much
Specialist winter tyres.
@@transportevolved if you are at Canada yes but in US we pay $200 per tire out there the government sucks the tax for importation for car parts it's way to high specially tires.
@@transportevolved Here in Germany, one tire of Nokian Hakkapeliitta R3 - 215/50 R 17 95 R XL - for Chevrolet Bolt is 147.25 EUR (19% sales tax already included!).
www.reifenleader.de/autoreifen/nokian/hakkapeliitta-r3/215-50-r17-95r-978455
Probably you got tires and rims. Still, some dealer ripped you off.
That's too much especially when tires wear out on EVs much faster due to the torque and weight
@@transportevolved Unless that included wheels, someone must be overcharging you. Nokian Hakka R3s in 215/50-17 cost $234.00 CAD each out here in Halifax.
I pay $109/month lease for my Hyundai Ioniq Electric 28 kW plus the insurance. Good deal neh?
After charging losses: 3.2 Miles per kWh? => 31.25 kWh / 100 miles => 312.5 Wh/mile => 195 Wh/km => 19.5 kWh/100 km.
I only charge at free Level 2, I plug up and pop my scooter out the trunk and ride that to work home etc...
Smart.
Did you really pay $400 per tire for the snow tires? I just spent $150 each for non-self sealing variant of the stock tires.
How much are you paying to buy out the lease? If the lease buy out is more than the kbb trade in value, you may be able to negotiate the price down with the leasing rep. You can also negotiate away any end of lease fees they hide in there. Just make sure you don’t seem to eager to buy it out with the leasing rep! Good luck!
Do you have a level II charger at home ? I am driving a leased 2019 Bolt.--the lease will be over at the end of OCT. 2022. Looks like with COVID I will be way under my 36,000 free miles. What many viewers may not know is that one can lease a 2020 Bolt Premiere--with no tax rebate at all--for a little over $350 per month and about 1700 down for tax, title, and license and first payment. The dealers are giving rather steep discounts.. That is a really good deal on a car that lists for more than $42,000. Go to the Chevy website and build yourself a Bolt and you will see. I pay State Farm about $402 every 6 months for $500 and $500 deductible. Annual license renewal is about $450 a year.
Love your show. Keep it up!
We purchased a 2020 Bolt Premier, at the end of March. I do most of my charging at home, using a Clipper Creek HCS-40P, that I had installed last summer. I am having a hard time calculating the cost of charging, because I am so poor at math.
BUT, Your $100 per month car insurance sounds VERY high. I pay $468 per year to insure the Bolt, with $500,000 in liability coverage; and $1,000 deductibles for both collision and comprehensive coverage. I live just west of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and my wife and I are both over 55.
You should shop around for coverage. For years, I was paying a lot more for coverage, because I just used the same agent who had inherited the business from her father, and my parents used her father as an agent, starting in the 1960's. It pays to shop around for insurance.
Some of the difference is due to our coverage for work :)
My job lets me charge for free on a Level 2 charger. So far I haven't had to pay a dime to power my Bolt EV.
That White/Black Nissan Leaf looks pretty cool. I wonder if GM will have a Chevy Bolt EV or EUV. I like that full moon roof.
Prius is cheaper $0.052 per mile and cheaper insurance. $2.55 per gallon gas and getting 50miles per gallon but mine really gets 54miles per gallon on San Francisco and getting 60-65miles on no uphill.
I just bought a 2017 bolt. My range seems much less than claimed. I drove 139 miles and had 3 /20 bars left. Looks like I can only go 170 miles. I am a very experienced ev driver. No goosing it. Any other observations.
Over $400 per tire? That's more than I paid for my 2000 chrysler cirrus AND the part that I needed to get it back on the road when I bought it 5 years ago. Gonna be a long time before the used EV market gets down to my price range.
Winter tyres
@@transportevolved you must have A LOT of snow and ice for a long period of time to need winter tyres(and to justify the eye watering cost......!)
@@transportevolved If I recall, that's more than the cost of the winter tires we have on the ford expeditions I drive for work. Sure, we don't buy the most expensive, but I drive all over North Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin on those tires without any trouble at all. You must really not trust yourself or that car in winter to justify spending that much to yourself.
Awesome information. Thank you.
About to put Yoshimura pipe on my i3. I’m looking forward to the power boost for the generator. Imagine being able to control the throttle and rev the REX 🤣 .......I’m not but I wonder if someone has. I did install a hitch and added 4-pin connector for trailer wiring though. It does great on the dump runs and going riding on my Dirtbike.
Very well delivered video, thanks for sharing the information. A comparison with an ICE Chevy would have highlight the benefits of EVs. Please, we know we can get sentimental, attached to cars but in six months you can surely get a better deal for a newest EV, leasing or buying it. For your own good do not buy that Bolt, it is not convenient economically
My 2017 Bolt costs me 2.5 cents per mile to drive locally, and around 6.5 cents per mile on road trips. In Arkansas we pay an extra $200 a year on car registration because we're not paying road tax on fuel... Road tax in Arkansas would be around $100 in a gas guzzling ICE car. Politicians don't care about reality though.
It's not just Arkansas. Washington charges EV drivers a extra registration fee to cover the road tax roughly equivalent to 15,000 miles worth of gas per year at 30 MPG. This is already more in road tax than a high-efficiency gas car pays. And, if you drive less than 15,000 miles per year, you don't get any discount, so your road tax per mile is even higher.
The good news though, is that road taxes are just a tiny portion of the total cost of ownership for any car, so it doesn't really make much difference in the scheme of things.
3.2 mi/kWh in a Bolt seems very low. The only time I've ever experienced trips with an efficiency like that is highway driving in the winter. At the other extreme, city driving in perfect 70 degree temperatures actually gets me just over 6 mi/kWh, which is pretty incredible. I would guess my 4-season overall average to be around 3.8-4 mi/kWh. But, unless you're doing a lot of driving at 75-80 mph, an average of 3.2 seems pretty pessimistic.
I like this stuff because I am very thorough. You would have to include depreciation. I have to own a truck for my needs so I did these types of calculations every 3 years. With depreciation included the Tacoma is the cheapest truck to own when you factor everything in over a 3 year term. In fact it comes very close per mile for what you paid to own your Bolt. I am foaming at the mouth waiting for an electric truck so I can do this analysis. Cars dont hold their value like trucks do especially a Tacoma.
I believe depreciation is included as the monthly payment, if not mistaken.
Why lease? Everyone thinks they are going to best the system. The house always win.
You have to include the cost of payments and insurance. I on'y have collision and my 2007 car is paid for. I would love to have an EV, but I have to drive over 200 miles at times. On the other hand the 20K miles I drive a year does not have enough fuel savings to justify an electric car.
A rare quick charge wouldnt be too bad. Plan your route and save some money. Its really not difficult since you can setup the charge time.
Anyone able to tell me why insurance is so expensive in the US? In some cities it's as much as $6000 a year, with an average across the US around $1700. I'm in the UK and my Porsche is only $366 a year... (converted)
Just curious, what is the residual value on your lease? I am thinking of leasing a Bolt and wanted to get an idea of what it would cost to buy it at the end of the lease if I decide to keep it. Thanks. FYI - you have a lot of great content, I "like" all Bolt videos, and I have subscribed.
Disregard.... I just watched your buying out the lease video and got my answer. Thanks!
@@mikeg7845 Look at the dealers now the 2017's are coming back off lease.
My 2016 Toyota Prius gives me 50 to 55mpg still after 145k miles in US I changed filter and spark plus i spend $360 to $380 per year for every 7k miles I drove so its actually better lasting car then any other chevy or Tesla or Nissan electric cars ! So I'm not sure why the heck people spend 30k up to 50k for small compact car when you can buy Toyota prius for $22k up to $28k fully loaded car!
I have a 2018 Toyota Prius Prime and a 2017 Chevy Bolt both have things I like and don't like. I have never put gas in my Bolt and paid $16,900 on a lease return with 26K miles on it, Premier Package. They can cost less if you are not against used vehicles. The biggest thing I like about my Bolt it drives like my motorcycle as my Prius drives like my bicycle after the charge is gone in 30 miles (being generous here).
@@wt5381 your prius prime used battery cost less then $2k to replace the Chevy the worst GM cars cheaply made they are having recalls left and right for Chevy Bolt as usual they all have problems after 120k miles you can't even find Chevy bolt battery for cheap it's probably going to cost you around $4k for used or 5k brand new prius is making 5 generation of hybrid cars over 20 years your Chevy is hardly even 4 years new technology that will fail over and over until they gain experience like Tesla
Use a spreadsheet like this to do the calculation. It is much easier to compare ICE versus Electric
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kIYlSspVmNZvfDgBEaU68thJ2uY4P0EyHp0ygX0qp2Q/edit
They must be some pretty goddam spectacular tyres - I could run my car for about five years on what you spent on them.. .....?!!
Nokian hakkapellitta.
@@transportevolved well, the name is ridiculously pretentious enough to go at least part way to justifying the price tag!
I still think they saw you coming.......!!
you guys stating low 10 cents per kwh are you dividing your total bill by monthly kwh meter usage? please remember the kwh usage per month has generation charge and distribution plus other fees. my electric bill will probably be less than 400kwh added per month which may be a bit less than 60 bucks. in summer i expect the usage to drop not using the heat. just remember if the dash says 9kwh used it will probably use 12kwh till it stops pulling amps.
LOL. I have basic insurance and it costs $300 per month. I hate being a 22 year old male with accident history
Why are you not trading it in for the new model? It has been upgraded with better battery range and they should have worked out the first kinks.
She has a whole other video on that very topic
U keep on talking about the 20,000 dollar EV, It's being done in India with the Tata Nexon EV.
Err you had electric gremlins granted a lot of other cars have the same issue but on ev’s it can cost a lot more to find and fix
The gremlins was the braking system
Bolt LT now $10,000 off and a 0%apr for 84 month. Vs Tesla model 3 standard... I wish tesla have a 0%apr financing also
Is it still going on? Any lease deal?
Why did you pay so much for tires?
Winter tyres
@@transportevolved Here in Germany, one tire of Nokian Hakkapeliitta R3 - 215/50 R 17 95 R XL - for Chevrolet Bolt is 147.25 EUR (19% sales tax already included!).
www.reifenleader.de/autoreifen/nokian/hakkapeliitta-r3/215-50-r17-95r-978455
Probably you got tires and rims. Still, some dealer ripped you off.
Thanks 🙏
If you're buying Nokian hekkapalitas for $410 each, you're being grossly overcharged
So 48,000mi driven / 3.2mi/kWh -> 15,000kWh * $0.115/kWh -> $1,725
Oh just for kicks let's see how much that would have cost me
- our I-pace 48,000mi / 2.5mi/kWh -> 19,200kWh * €0.34/kWh -> €6,528 (about $7,000)
- our Niro 48,000mi * 10.4L/100mi(6.5l/100km) -> 4,992L * €1.25/L -> €6240 (about $6,700)
- theoretical Niro-EV 48,000mi / 3.7mi/kWh -> 12,972kWh * €0.34/kWh -> €4,410 (about $4.750)
I'm not so sure an EV is cheaper for me to run than an ICE.
Considering that an e-Niro would cost us €8,000-12,000 more and we only save about €2,000 in fuel. The I-pace is most definatly more expensive to run (no surprise there).
Why is it so expensive for us? We have no off-street parking, so only public charging and public charging in Belgium is expensive (Level 2: €0.34-0.48/kWh, DC ~€0.70/kWh).
Wow, those tyres are expensive!
Out of warranty in less than three years (only 48,000 miles and out of warranty? )?
aclassmedicine that’s the bumper to bumper warranty. 3 years 36k Your probably thinking of drivetrain which would be 8 years 100k according to Chevy site
Rav4 2012 love to death 130,000 mils so far, but 2005 prius far cheaper to operate 230,000 miles and infinitely more serviceable. $ 0.25 kWh seem optimistically low and down right illegal in some of the places in aMerica I'v traveled. And don't forget the cost of the pesky R.F.I.D. card subscription which make it impossible to know your energy cost wen you travel. coin-operated would by ezzyer to understand and better maintained. We got a long way to go but we'l get there.
That is just false information. Now let’s look at claims these vehicles save money based on USA prices. Keep in mind you are not paying any state or federal road taxes at this time but that is about to change. First the Bolt EV vehicles are around 20,000 more than a comparable sized gas model and a comparable gas model is a Corolla in the 18k to 20k range. The average EV driver goes 3.5 miles per KWh summer and winter driving. A comparable gas vehicle averages around 31.5 MPG in all seasons driving.
Why not hand it in and lease a new model with longer range?
She has a whole other video on that very topic
My god woman, you spent $400 a tire?
For now it’s less
Long term ,you should consider battery replacement, around, $ 17,000
How much a tire? Nope!
She made a mistake, thats not even possible. Maybe 160 per tire.
The cost is too high even from the outset. EV are still impractical and inaccessible to around 75% of the current uk population, and while I would own like a shot, those that cannot afford to buy a new one. Most do not have actually anywhere to charge one and are stuck with a traditional fossil fuel vehicle and are getting penalised accordingly. And if you want to be totally naive and shallow there is no EV that actually looks good
Do you suffer vampire drain?