Great video! We all have projects that give us challenges, and it is VERY helpful to learn about what can go wrong, as well as how to fix them. I appreciate your sharing the troubleshooting process, and the sharing of advice from others!
It’s all part of the journey Bob, I always stand my resin bottles in hot water for a couple of minutes before pouring. I never heat the moulds either. Then as been stated, use thumbs and fingers to seat the stoppers. They are great looking blanks, well done.👍👍❤️❤️
I agree. A long mix time with heated molds makes the resin start to set before the pressure pot can force the bubbles out. Keep in mind that the compressor is heating the air that is going into the pot.
Another great video Bob. Just got my pressure pot and compressor a few days back but its still sitting in its box waiting until I can learn more about it..I just want to get into resin and wood turning and need the resin part to be crystal clear. But it was nice to see that, if it doesn't work right first attempt, then I just need to work out the problems and try again.. So even though it didn't go right for you first time out, the fact that you kept filming was more educational for me than if you had edited it to show a success. Huge confidence boost many thanks...
Thank you, I appreciate you’re comment I like sharing my successes and failures, it’s what happens to all of us. I just don’t like to hide it, people need to know it happens to all of us. Regards, Bob
Practice,practice and more practice ,plus making mistakes is how we learn.Sometimes it seems like when we are learning to do something it's a heardle that's hard to clear.Good luck and have fun casting.Thanks for sharing. Good Luck. Mike
Good Morning Bob, you don't need to press that hard to get the stoppers to seal. Insert them as you did without so much force, then place your thumbs on the inside portion of the mold and pull outward slightly as you push inward on the stoppers. This will now allow the molds pressure to push against the stoppers when you release it. Also, using 60 psi on a HF pot is IMHO is very risky and not needed. With well over a thousand blanks casted in Alumilite I've never used more then 40psi. It really only takes 20-25 psi to eradicate the bubbles and if you thin out your Part B by warming it, it will pour as Part A does, like water. If you do warm it, you'll usually have less bubbles just because your keeping Part B from "plopping" into A. Back to the HF pot, it's max I believe is 60psi and there are plenty of videos on here showing these pots coming apart. I would never push anything made by HF to its max, nor close to it. I'm a very experienced turner and caster but I still enjoy your videos and I'd hate to see you or anyone else get hurt by blowing up a pot especially when you only need 30-40 psi. For what's it's worth, I never heat molds either. Thx for what you do, enjoy casting, its more addictive then turning.
Thank you for the great info. I'll try my next couple of casts at 40, 35, then 30 to see what I get. I'll keep notes as I step down to help me determine what works best. I will also try warming part B. This is really fun and I'm learning something new every cast. I can see how it could get addicting.Regards,Bob
It is possible that the hotter molds are causing the resin to set before the bubbles are compressed. FYI - if you want to recover your tube, fill a jar with acetone and let them soak for a dat, it will break down resins and epoxy and you can recover your brass.
Thanks for sharing your journey with us Bob. I'm thinking about starting to cast, but I'm still new at turning so I'm trying not to do too much too fast. :)
Glad you finally had success, I’ve been doing casting now for about a year now and have never heated my molds or used mold release for that matter. I also got into making my own mold from silicone rubber as I can’t see spending $25 or so on a bought one. Hope you have a ball casting.
I love that you are showing your entire journey in to this. Might help me avoid some pitfalls. Can you tell me measurements on your shelving unit you put in to pot? Or maybe you have a RUclips video making it?
Hello, I made a video then I did an update, here are the links. How to Make a Mold Rack for Your Pressure Pot ruclips.net/video/r394URpIL0I/видео.html Here's How I Made An Adjustable Rack For Casting In PVC Pipe ruclips.net/video/wsvCKyr2Yrw/видео.html Regards, Bob
All the molds need is to be at around 70 degrees. I would check with Zac on that. If the molds are too warm it heats up the resin causing the resin to kick too quickly not allowing enough time for the bubbles to compress.
I usually heat my Alumilite with heat pad on medium. This made mixing quicker. Have under pressure at 3 minutes. Bubbles have more time to escape before setup time.
Grate job Bib they're are brilliant. I've tried doing some one's picture of there dog today wish me luck for tomorrow morning when I have a look. Also trying some pine cones if any goog I'll try and put some picture on Facebook
So happy you got it all sorted out Bob! When I watched the other video of your 1st pour I did wonder if the spatula you were using might have been a bit too big for the cup & thought maybe if you had used a popsicle or tongue depressor you might have had an easier time mixing the part A & B. Obviously with these latest casts it wasn't a problem! Looking forward to your video on making the blanks! As always Cheers from Nova Scotia :)
It appears to me that your mold release is mixing with your resin. Spray your release agent and then wipe away the excess. There is also no need to heat the tube. Heat the mold then apply the tube in the mold.
sorry to be off topic but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any help you can give me
@Bjorn Elian thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
I have discovered when I run into a snag while working in my shop I can almost always find a solution with one of your video's. You answer questions I hadn't even thought of yet! OK, I made my first pour last night and ended up not only slopping resin and harder all over my scale, I seriously doubt I got the ratio's close to being correct. Would it be feasible to transfer the resin and harder to some type of separate squeeze bottles that I could hold directly over the mixing cup so as to avoid my sloppy pouring technique? Also wanted to say "Thank You" once again for this informative video here! Painting the inside of the blank instead of painting the tube is pure genius! Also love that bandsaw jig you have for trimming the blanks. One of those is on my list of "have to have's" when I finally get a bandsaw. Hopefully soon! As always Thanks for sharing your many talents and wisdom!!!
Hello John, If you’re using the gallon jugs, they sell pumps for them that make things much easier. For the smaller jugs, something with a spout will make it way easier. As long as the container can be closed up air tight. Regards, Bob
With casting you use air pressure to compress the bubbles to the point your eye can’t see them. Then the resin sets and there are no bubbles. You use vacuum to pull the air out of a wood blank then when you release the vacuum, it pulls cactus juice Into the voids in the wood to stabilize it. Regards, Bob
I think it's the heat from heating your molds that's causing the resin to set too quickly. I've never had any problems with bubbles when using cold molds. Also which alumilite are you using? Alumilite clear or alumilite clear slow set? I've found that alumilite clear that has the 7 minute working time is a little off. It's really a 5 minute working time. You want to have the mold in the pot with pressure by the 7 minute mark. The slow set has a 12 minute working time but it's more like 10 minutes.
Could you possibly use a slower cure time resin (maybe 12 hours plus) and run it through a vacuum chamber before it is poured? That would also eliminate your bubbles, would it not?
They are beautiful. I have a question. I have never seen anyone heat the molds up, before. Why did you do that? Was it because it was cold, in your garage?
Hi Bob, Great video. I have all of the equipment for creating blanks and I’m excited too try making my own blanks. I would like to do it in the garage. However, it is probably very close to freezing right now. When casting does temperature make any difference?@ Thanks, Peter
Hello Peter, Temperature it as huge factor. My butts Mile DeLawter at Lost River Pens is my go to for questions like this. Check him out and ask the specifics you need to know to get you casting. You can tell him I sent you. Regards, Bob
I think you are over heating the mould. you mould must be hot after all that heat. I wonder if room temperature would be good enough. could you keep the moulds and resin in the house to keep them warm
Currently have my pressure pot sitting on the workbench pressurized to 60psi doing a leak test. Checked about 20 minutes ago and hasn't dropped any yet, so hopefully I got all the leaks taken care of. Now onto getting some acrylic to build the mold rack out of. How much clearance do you have between your acrylic shelves and the side of the pressure pot? I'm wondering if there's not enough space for the air to get through the pot completely to push the bubbles out of the blanks?
Really enjoyed this one Bob, thanks for sharing. Some useful tips in there for newbies. You’re the only person I have seen heat the mould before casting, is there a specific reason for it? Looking forward to the Route 66 blank making video too. :)
Hello Collin, I’ve been talking with several big time casters and they’ve suggested I try casting without hearing, they don’t think it’s necessary. Looks like a test coming up soon. Regards, Bob
I am a new subscriber to your channel and like it a lot. However, I have never seen enyone heeting up theirs mold before casting, and they never have those problems you have. Thought I ought to put it in the descussioun. Regards from Iceland. Júlíus
So if heating the mold up accelerates the curing (while you are pouring or if you have an interrupted pour), what advantage does heating the mold up give you. Seems like it may be more detrimental.
I was told the resin cures as the reaction between A and B produces heat. Its cold here so pouring into a cold mold may cool that heat slowing the curing process and possible causing a failure.Regards,Bob
Maybe you answered this question and I missed it but, do you know why you got bubbles on the surface of the one blank and how to fix it? I put my resin in a pressure pot and inside the resin it is perfectly clear but the bubbles for some reason are on the surface. I did not heat the mold prior to pouring the resin, I made sure my mold was dry and the silk flower I put in it was prepped. The whole reason I got the pressure pot was because I could not get the bubbles out with just atmospheric pressure. I appreciate any and all help I can get!!
That is a tough one to diagnose. There are many things that can play Into the result. Mixing, temperature of the mold, temp in the room, air temp from the compressor. Not enough time in the pot. Not enough pressure. Taking the blanks out to early. Best thing to do is keep notes and change one thing at a time until something works. Regards, Bob
HI BOB i am wanting to start casting pins so i will haft to start with everything my question is do you haft to heat up the forms wont the epoxy get hot enough to start with when you put them in the vaccum pot or pressure pot i was just wondering when you mix the chemicals togeather and the reaction starts wouldent that be enough heat to get going also does the time of the year make any difference on reaction of the chemicals sorry for the long question and thank you GOD BLESS larry
Hello Larry, I’ll be honest, I’m learning from multiple people and some swear by heating the molds while others say it’s not necessary. For me, the jury is still out. I am casting both ways and keeping notes so I can learn what works best and when. Im still a little new at casting to honestly answer this question. Regards, Bob
Is the 2 pack resin you are using specifically made for turning? Or is it a general purpose resin? I ask because I have seen and done much nicer castings without all the fuss of a pressure pot. I'm legitimately interested - as a hobbiest it's nice to learn.
I guess Alumilite could be used for other things. It is low VOC, has high clarity, and turns like a dream. You have to use a pressure pot with it. Regards, Bob
Well my first attempt was not very good either, I had the resin leaking into the brass tube issue, but mine wasn't too bad as the blank would still be usable. The problem with mine is when I took them out of the mold they were kind of cloudy. I turned one of them and the cloudiness goes through the blank all the way to the tube...have you experienced this?
Hello William, Clouding is usually one of two issues. Moisture, or more of one resin that the other. I purchased a scale with the ability to read tenths of a gram and haven’t had that issue since. Regards, Bob
Hmm, well my resin mixture was slightly off, most likely the cause, I wouldn't think there would have been that much moisture in the tank using the filter on the air inlet....I'll try it again here in a few days when I get more supplies ordered. Sure like the alumilite though, no harsh smell like the acrylic from Michaels Craft Store. The alumilite seems much easier to work with as well, and faster setting time is a huge plus. I poured the blanks and turned one in 2 hours, sure couldn't do that with acrylic.
Hmm, my resin mixture was a little off, so most likely that was the cause then...I managed to turn 1 blank and it doesn't look too bad, the other wasn't good at all...almost looked more like the alumilite white HAHA!!! I'll give it another try here soon when I decide what I'm going to cast next and finish up my pressure pot trays...I can say that without the tray setup its a pain to get the mold down into the pot without spilling the resin all over in the process. Alumilite doesn't have that harsh smell that the acrylic resin "Cast'n Craft" from Michaels has, that stuff is not very fun to have to use, and Alumilite is also faster curing, 2 hours versus a day or longer depending on temperature and the mixture.
HI BOB thanks for the come back so soon i would like to be your neighbor and i really like your videos you are a cool person and a good showman at your art making talk to you later and GODBLESS larry
Yes, I started pouring into the cavity then I stopped to fix the stopper on the other tube. I then went back and poured the rest of the resin into the cavity. Had I finished the pour, It probably would have worked and been bubble less.Regards,Bob
I had never heard this. I think I've seen Zac Higgins pour resin and then mix up more and then pour again which would be much longer than your pour, fix, pour. I've always heard bubbles like yours usually means moisture. But I've not done many Alumilite blanks.
As soon as you combine part A with part B, add one small drop of acetone to your mix. Even the smallest amount of acetone will thin your mix, making it less viscous, therefore less bubbles during mixing. It also gives an extra 15 minutes to your epoxy's work time. Additionally, If you have a degassing chamber, it is even better to vacuum for 1 to 2 mins after mixing before pouring the mix into your mold. then proceed with the steps you have been taking. A pressure pot doesn't remove air bubbles. It compresses them down so much that it becomes microscopic to see. A million microscopic bubbles will be hard to miss. So don't give it so many bubbles that it has to compress. Even under vacuum, it is hard to pull all of the air bubbles from your epoxy. That is why it is best to use both vacuum and pressure.
You're welcome. If you at least tried the acetone trick, I'm sure it will work out for you. I've battled this for a couple years now. I use epoxy in my photography to encapsulate my prints. So no air bubbles was a must. I've spent hundreds of dollars unnecessarily on equipment, and wished that I discovered the acetone trick earlier. Also, you don't really need to heat up your mold if its close to room temp. You could be doing more damage then good. Possibly speeding up cure time too much with excessive heat and warping your mold... What I do is, have my bottles of epoxy sitting in a pot of hot water from the sink for about 10 mins. Heating up your epoxy in that manner also thins out your epoxy making it easier to pour and mix. No need to heat up your mold in oven. Especially when all your mold needs to be is about 75 degrees. On the other hand, COLD TEMPS ARE A NO NO, AND LOW HUMIDITY IS A MUST. Or you risk it turning milky white. Another thing that worked for me with "Degassing Only" without a pressure pot, was to place my (small) pictures and molds in my Nu-wave oven at 100 degrees (lowest it goes) and let them cure in there. I guess it kept it at a decent temp for the hour it was in there. And perfect low humidity... I had to use both racks in the oven though. Top rack I covered with foil to divert the air from blowing onto my molds that was placed on bottom rack.... Good luck to you. Hope it works out. I appreciate all your videos and you have helped me with a few projects so far. Keep up the great work. PS. For people concerned with acetone interfering with epoxy curing...You are using such a small amount of acetone that it evaporates before your epoxy cures. I have yet to have a problem with it. I actually keep my acetone in a spray bottle and and give it one or two pumps while mixing the two parts. That is depending on the amount of epoxy I'm working with. For 24 grams of epoxy, I wouldn't use more than one or two drops of acetone from an eyedropper.
I enjoy your videos. I love the multi tiered insert for the pressure pot. do you have designs to share or a video on your assembly? Ive got my pressure pot ordered and in transit now. Thank you
Flip grouch this play list, it has the video on building that rack. My Casting Adventure: ruclips.net/p/PLd8OGJeP3PxnfxmuBqmksXFwbNoPczz_l Regards, Bob
![Kumamoto Masters Japan 2024 | Gregoria Mariska Tunjung (INA) [5] vs. Akane Yamaguchi (JPN) [2] | F](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EIjZybhsWqA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video! We all have projects that give us challenges, and it is VERY helpful to learn about what can go wrong, as well as how to fix them. I appreciate your sharing the troubleshooting process, and the sharing of advice from others!
Thank you Wes.
Regards,
Bob
Love your enthusiasm and glee when all things came together on pours 3 &4. Looking forward to more blank casting from you.
Thank you Tom, I'm having a blast.Regards,Bob
It’s all part of the journey Bob, I always stand my resin bottles in hot water for a couple of minutes before pouring. I never heat the moulds either.
Then as been stated, use thumbs and fingers to seat the stoppers. They are great looking blanks, well done.👍👍❤️❤️
Thank you Eric,
I really need to make some more soon.
Regards,
Bob
Third time lucky, I will look forward to the finished pens.
Thanks
James
Thank you James.
Regards,
Bob
I agree. A long mix time with heated molds makes the resin start to set before the pressure pot can force the bubbles out. Keep in mind that the compressor is heating the air that is going into the pot.
Thank you for the info. I didn’t think about the compressor.
Regards,
Bob
Another great video Bob. Just got my pressure pot and compressor a few days back but its still sitting in its box waiting until I can learn more about it..I just want to get into resin and wood turning and need the resin part to be crystal clear. But it was nice to see that, if it doesn't work right first attempt, then I just need to work out the problems and try again.. So even though it didn't go right for you first time out, the fact that you kept filming was more educational for me than if you had edited it to show a success. Huge confidence boost many thanks...
Thank you, I appreciate you’re comment I like sharing my successes and failures, it’s what happens to all of us. I just don’t like to hide it, people need to know it happens to all of us.
Regards,
Bob
Good information. The learning curve can be frustrating. Looking forward to how you make the tubes. Have a nice day.
Thank you Dennis, I have bottle caps on the way so it will be soon.Regards,Bob
Practice,practice and more practice ,plus making mistakes is how we learn.Sometimes it seems like when we are learning to do something it's a heardle that's hard to clear.Good luck and have fun casting.Thanks for sharing.
Good Luck. Mike
Thank you Mike.
Regards
Bob
Congratulations! Third time is a charm. They look great! Again, thanks for sharing.
Thank you, I wish I was filming when the third batch came out of the pot. I was truly excited.Regards,Bob
Good Morning Bob, you don't need to press that hard to get the stoppers to seal. Insert them as you did without so much force, then place your thumbs on the inside portion of the mold and pull outward slightly as you push inward on the stoppers. This will now allow the molds pressure to push against the stoppers when you release it. Also, using 60 psi on a HF pot is IMHO is very risky and not needed. With well over a thousand blanks casted in Alumilite I've never used more then 40psi. It really only takes 20-25 psi to eradicate the bubbles and if you thin out your Part B by warming it, it will pour as Part A does, like water. If you do warm it, you'll usually have less bubbles just because your keeping Part B from "plopping" into A. Back to the HF pot, it's max I believe is 60psi and there are plenty of videos on here showing these pots coming apart. I would never push anything made by HF to its max, nor close to it. I'm a very experienced turner and caster but I still enjoy your videos and I'd hate to see you or anyone else get hurt by blowing up a pot especially when you only need 30-40 psi. For what's it's worth, I never heat molds either. Thx for what you do, enjoy casting, its more addictive then turning.
Thank you for the great info. I'll try my next couple of casts at 40, 35, then 30 to see what I get. I'll keep notes as I step down to help me determine what works best. I will also try warming part B. This is really fun and I'm learning something new every cast. I can see how it could get addicting.Regards,Bob
It is possible that the hotter molds are causing the resin to set before the bubbles are compressed. FYI - if you want to recover your tube, fill a jar with acetone and let them soak for a dat, it will break down resins and epoxy and you can recover your brass.
Thank you John.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for sharing your journey with us Bob. I'm thinking about starting to cast, but I'm still new at turning so I'm trying not to do too much too fast. :)
I know what you mean, it can get expensive and overwhelming real fast.
Regards,
Bob
Practice makes perfect, without failure you can't have success, I knew you could do it Bob, nice blanks.
Thank you, I've learned so much and I'm having a blast.Regards,Bob
Congrats Bob . Live and learn . The last one's you made look great . Take care.
Thank you Glen.Regards,Bob
Glad you finally had success, I’ve been doing casting now for about a year now and have never heated my molds or used mold release for that matter. I also got into making my own mold from silicone rubber as I can’t see spending $25 or so on a bought one. Hope you have a ball casting.
Thank you, I'm having a blast. I can see wanting to make some silicone molds for custom blanks.Regards,Bob
Thanks Bob, getting some really great information from your videos!
Thank you.Regards,Bob
Yeah, glad you finally have success!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
You're doing great, it's always good to get to the bottom of a problem. Keep up the good work. Regards From Lincolnshire England.
Thank you Simon.
Regards,
Bob
Well bob, you live and learn but those last few look very, very nice indeed!
Thank you,
I’m chalking this up to learning.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks again for sharing video with us, keep up the good work!
Thank you Kwstas.Regards,Bob
I love that you are showing your entire journey in to this. Might help me avoid some pitfalls.
Can you tell me measurements on your shelving unit you put in to pot? Or maybe you have a RUclips video making it?
Hello,
I made a video then I did an update, here are the links.
How to Make a Mold Rack for Your Pressure Pot
ruclips.net/video/r394URpIL0I/видео.html
Here's How I Made An Adjustable Rack For Casting In PVC Pipe
ruclips.net/video/wsvCKyr2Yrw/видео.html
Regards,
Bob
Very informative !! Thanks Sounds like heating the mold has a serious downside.
I guess it can is you pour and stop. If you do everything in one pour it seems like it works pretty well.Regards,Bob
All the molds need is to be at around 70 degrees. I would check with Zac on that. If the molds are too warm it heats up the resin causing the resin to kick too quickly not allowing enough time for the bubbles to compress.
I was talking with another big time caster today and he asked me to try a cast without the heat.
Regards,
Bob
I usually heat my Alumilite with heat pad on medium. This made mixing quicker. Have under pressure at 3 minutes. Bubbles have more time to escape before setup time.
Thank you Terry,
Regards,
Bob
Bob, personally I'd try using a cold mold and a longer time in the pressure pot (overnight maybe)...
Thank you Eddie.
Regards,
Bob
Absolutely fantastic 👍
Thank you Kenny.Regards,Bob
Thanks Bob, Informative as always
Thank you George.
Regards,
Bob
I’m about to start casting, I’m so glad I watched this video!
It takes some dialing in. I still have a lot to learn but I can’t wait to get back to it. The options are endless.
I just use a little petroleum jelly (vasaline) on my seal, works like a charm
I was told it could flash so I went with silicone grease.
Regards,
Bob
So exited for you!
Thank you Audra.
Regards,
Bob
Grate job Bib they're are brilliant.
I've tried doing some one's picture of there dog today wish me luck for tomorrow morning when I have a look.
Also trying some pine cones if any goog I'll try and put some picture on Facebook
That would be great Nigel, I’d love to
See your results.
Regards,
Bob
So happy you got it all sorted out Bob! When I watched the other video of your 1st pour I did wonder if the spatula you were using might have been a bit too big for the cup & thought maybe if you had used a popsicle or tongue depressor you might have had an easier time mixing the part A & B. Obviously with these latest casts it wasn't a problem! Looking forward to your video on making the blanks! As always Cheers from Nova Scotia :)
Hello Mark,
I like it better than a stick because I can remove everything from the sides of the cup for thorough mixing.
Regards,
Bob
It appears to me that your mold release is mixing with your resin. Spray your release agent and then wipe away the excess. There is also no need to heat the tube. Heat the mold then apply the tube in the mold.
Thank you Matthew.
Regards,
Bob
Another super video. Bob! Can you share your source for Route 66 bottle caps?
I got them direct from Route 66. I’m making several pens for them and they sent me some caps to use.
Regards,
Bob
Those blanks look sharp! Awesome job, Bob! One day I want to get into casting, but the time isn't right yet.
I understand that, it took me a while to warm up to it.
Regards,
Bob
sorry to be off topic but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any help you can give me
@Adrien Draven instablaster ;)
@Bjorn Elian thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Bjorn Elian It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass!
I have discovered when I run into a snag while working in my shop I can almost always find a solution with one of your video's. You answer questions I hadn't even thought of yet! OK, I made my first pour last night and ended up not only slopping resin and harder all over my scale, I seriously doubt I got the ratio's close to being correct. Would it be feasible to transfer the resin and harder to some type of separate squeeze bottles that I could hold directly over the mixing cup so as to avoid my sloppy pouring technique? Also wanted to say "Thank You" once again for this informative video here! Painting the inside of the blank instead of painting the tube is pure genius! Also love that bandsaw jig you have for trimming the blanks. One of those is on my list of "have to have's" when I finally get a bandsaw. Hopefully soon! As always Thanks for sharing your many talents and wisdom!!!
Hello John,
If you’re using the gallon jugs, they sell pumps for them that make things much easier. For the smaller jugs, something with a spout will make it way easier. As long as the container can be closed up air tight.
Regards,
Bob
Are you using the air compressor with the pressure pot??? It needs a vaccum pump sucking the air OUT not a compressor pushing air IN. :)
With casting you use air pressure to compress the bubbles to the point your eye can’t see them. Then the resin sets and there are no bubbles.
You use vacuum to pull the air out of a wood blank then when you release the vacuum, it pulls cactus juice Into the voids in the wood to stabilize it.
Regards,
Bob
Congratulations
Thank you.Regards,Bob
Are you going to turn the bubbly ones anyway? Nothing to loose and the bubbles might suit the soda them of the blank. Excellent info as always.
I am going to turn it just to see what it looks like.
Regards,
Bob
I think it's the heat from heating your molds that's causing the resin to set too quickly. I've never had any problems with bubbles when using cold molds. Also which alumilite are you using? Alumilite clear or alumilite clear slow set? I've found that alumilite clear that has the 7 minute working time is a little off. It's really a 5 minute working time. You want to have the mold in the pot with pressure by the 7 minute mark. The slow set has a 12 minute working time but it's more like 10 minutes.
Hello,
I was using the Alumilite slow set.
Regards,
Bob
Could you possibly use a slower cure time resin (maybe 12 hours plus) and run it through a vacuum chamber before it is poured? That would also eliminate your bubbles, would it not?
Vacuum is for stabilizing. You need a pressure pot for casting.
Regards,
Bob
They are beautiful. I have a question. I have never seen anyone heat the molds up, before. Why did you do that? Was it because it was cold, in your garage?
Sorry. Repeat question. I saw the reply below. Again, thanks, for the great videos.
Thank you Tim.
I have been told to heat them and to not heat them. I’m still trying it both ways as I’m still learning.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob,
Great video.
I have all of the equipment for creating blanks and I’m excited too try making my own blanks. I would like to do it in the garage. However, it is probably very close to freezing right now. When casting does temperature make any difference?@
Thanks,
Peter
Hello Peter,
Temperature it as huge factor.
My butts Mile DeLawter at Lost River Pens is my go to for questions like this.
Check him out and ask the specifics you need to know to get you casting.
You can tell him I sent you.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner Thanks Bob
Sounds like you are going to have fun with this casting thing.....LOL....they look great,give them time to fully cure and turn those puppies....lol
I can’t wait to turn them. Maybe this weekend.
Regards,
Bob
I have an interesting project for ya when you get more comfy with casting. Just a hint. Rare cuban cigars
I’d love to cast a cigar pen.
Regards,
Bob
I think you are over heating the mould. you mould must be hot after all that heat. I wonder if room temperature would be good enough. could you keep the moulds and resin in the house to keep them warm
I spoke with another big time caster today and he recommended I try just that. I will on the next cast.
Regards,
Bob
Currently have my pressure pot sitting on the workbench pressurized to 60psi doing a leak test. Checked about 20 minutes ago and hasn't dropped any yet, so hopefully I got all the leaks taken care of. Now onto getting some acrylic to build the mold rack out of.
How much clearance do you have between your acrylic shelves and the side of the pressure pot? I'm wondering if there's not enough space for the air to get through the pot completely to push the bubbles out of the blanks?
The pot is 9” in diameter and my racks are 8 3/4” in diameter.
Regards,
Bob
what about photos ? paper type? measuring tubes for wrapping ?
That would work too. My buddy Mike DeLawter makes that style pen all the time.
Regards,
Bob
Really enjoyed this one Bob, thanks for sharing. Some useful tips in there for newbies.
You’re the only person I have seen heat the mould before casting, is there a specific reason for it?
Looking forward to the Route 66 blank making video too. :)
Hello Collin,
I’ve been talking with several big time casters and they’ve suggested I try casting without hearing, they don’t think it’s necessary. Looks like a test coming up soon.
Regards,
Bob
Anyone that knows feel free to answer... Do you need a pressure pot to make a blank? Or, can you pour the resin and let it sit until it sets up?
Polyester resin doesn’t require a pressure pot. Only certain resins do.
Regards,
Bob
I am a new subscriber to your channel and like it a lot. However, I have never seen enyone heeting up theirs mold before casting, and they never have those problems you have. Thought I ought to put it in the descussioun. Regards from Iceland.
Júlíus
Hello, Its been cold here so my buddy suggested heating the molds as a way to help the curing process.Regards,Bob
So if heating the mold up accelerates the curing (while you are pouring or if you have an interrupted pour), what advantage does heating the mold up give you. Seems like it may be more detrimental.
I was told the resin cures as the reaction between A and B produces heat. Its cold here so pouring into a cold mold may cool that heat slowing the curing process and possible causing a failure.Regards,Bob
where did you get the rack that you put in the pressure pot?
I made it, here’s a video:
How to Make a Mold Rack for Your Pressure Pot
ruclips.net/video/r394URpIL0I/видео.html
Regards,
Bob
Maybe you answered this question and I missed it but, do you know why you got bubbles on the surface of the one blank and how to fix it? I put my resin in a pressure pot and inside the resin it is perfectly clear but the bubbles for some reason are on the surface. I did not heat the mold prior to pouring the resin, I made sure my mold was dry and the silk flower I put in it was prepped. The whole reason I got the pressure pot was because I could not get the bubbles out with just atmospheric pressure. I appreciate any and all help I can get!!
That is a tough one to diagnose. There are many things that can play Into the result. Mixing, temperature of the mold, temp in the room, air temp from the compressor. Not enough time in the pot. Not enough pressure. Taking the blanks out to early. Best thing to do is keep notes and change one thing at a time until something works.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner thank you so much! I will keep track. I think I may have it figured out. Your videos have been very helpful!
Bob. On the last pours did you still heat the mold? Thanks
Yes, I talked with a big time caster today and he told me that was unnecessary. I’m gonna try casting without heating.
Regards,
Bob
Can you let the mold release dry before attempting to put the tubes in or must it stay wet to work?
That was a slap my forehead moment. It's so simple but I never even thought of it. Thank you.Regards,Bob
HI BOB i am wanting to start casting pins so i will haft to start with everything my question is do you haft to heat up the forms wont the epoxy get hot enough to start with when you put them in the vaccum pot or pressure pot i was just wondering when you mix the chemicals togeather and the reaction starts wouldent that be enough heat to get going also does the time of the year make any difference on reaction of the chemicals sorry for the long question and thank you GOD BLESS larry
Hello Larry,
I’ll be honest, I’m learning from multiple people and some swear by heating the molds while others say it’s not necessary. For me, the jury is still out. I am casting both ways and keeping notes so I can learn what works best and when. Im still a little new at casting to honestly answer this question.
Regards,
Bob
you have a twin brother in Boise, ID..... ha
Maybe a Doppleganger. 😃
Is the 2 pack resin you are using specifically made for turning? Or is it a general purpose resin? I ask because I have seen and done much nicer castings without all the fuss of a pressure pot. I'm legitimately interested - as a hobbiest it's nice to learn.
I guess Alumilite could be used for other things. It is low VOC, has high clarity, and turns like a dream. You have to use a pressure pot with it.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you for the reply Bob. I'm enjoying watching your progression. Have fun!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Well my first attempt was not very good either, I had the resin leaking into the brass tube issue, but mine wasn't too bad as the blank would still be usable. The problem with mine is when I took them out of the mold they were kind of cloudy. I turned one of them and the cloudiness goes through the blank all the way to the tube...have you experienced this?
Hello William,
Clouding is usually one of two issues. Moisture, or more of one resin that the other. I purchased a scale with the ability to read tenths of a gram and haven’t had that issue since.
Regards,
Bob
Hmm, well my resin mixture was slightly off, most likely the cause, I wouldn't think there would have been that much moisture in the tank using the filter on the air inlet....I'll try it again here in a few days when I get more supplies ordered.
Sure like the alumilite though, no harsh smell like the acrylic from Michaels Craft Store. The alumilite seems much easier to work with as well, and faster setting time is a huge plus. I poured the blanks and turned one in 2 hours, sure couldn't do that with acrylic.
Hmm, my resin mixture was a little off, so most likely that was the cause then...I managed to turn 1 blank and it doesn't look too bad, the other wasn't good at all...almost looked more like the alumilite white HAHA!!! I'll give it another try here soon when I decide what I'm going to cast next and finish up my pressure pot trays...I can say that without the tray setup its a pain to get the mold down into the pot without spilling the resin all over in the process.
Alumilite doesn't have that harsh smell that the acrylic resin "Cast'n Craft" from Michaels has, that stuff is not very fun to have to use, and Alumilite is also faster curing, 2 hours versus a day or longer depending on temperature and the mixture.
It’s amazing stuff once you dial in on casting with it. Super clear and turns like hot butter.
HI BOB thanks for the come back so soon i would like to be your neighbor and i really like your videos you are a cool person and a good showman at your art making talk to you later and GODBLESS larry
Thank you very much Larry, I appreciate that.
Regards,
Bob
By double pour do you mean pour wait and pour or pour mix up more resin and pour?
Yes, I started pouring into the cavity then I stopped to fix the stopper on the other tube. I then went back and poured the rest of the resin into the cavity. Had I finished the pour, It probably would have worked and been bubble less.Regards,Bob
I had never heard this. I think I've seen Zac Higgins pour resin and then mix up more and then pour again which would be much longer than your pour, fix, pour. I've always heard bubbles like yours usually means moisture. But I've not done many Alumilite blanks.
How long to you wait to turn them???
Iwait until when you hit them together they make a sharp pitched vs a dull thud. and it depends.
The warm mold speeds the curing process. I trapped the escaping bubbles.
Regards,
Bob
How long should you wait till you turn them?
I was told a couple days. I need to read the data sheet to be sure.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner yeah I normally wait a few days but it becomes rubbery when I sand it and polish it and I don't know why.
That’s odd. I’ll see what these do.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner alright please let me know. And if you're going to make a video I'll make sure to watch.
Thank you.
As soon as you combine part A with part B, add one small drop of acetone to your mix. Even the smallest amount of acetone will thin your mix, making it less viscous, therefore less bubbles during mixing. It also gives an extra 15 minutes to your epoxy's work time. Additionally, If you have a degassing chamber, it is even better to vacuum for 1 to 2 mins after mixing before pouring the mix into your mold. then proceed with the steps you have been taking. A pressure pot doesn't remove air bubbles. It compresses them down so much that it becomes microscopic to see. A million microscopic bubbles will be hard to miss. So don't give it so many bubbles that it has to compress. Even under vacuum, it is hard to pull all of the air bubbles from your epoxy. That is why it is best to use both vacuum and pressure.
Thank you for all the information, I’m always looking for ways to improve.
You're welcome. If you at least tried the acetone trick, I'm sure it will work out for you. I've battled this for a couple years now. I use epoxy in my photography to encapsulate my prints. So no air bubbles was a must. I've spent hundreds of dollars unnecessarily on equipment, and wished that I discovered the acetone trick earlier. Also, you don't really need to heat up your mold if its close to room temp. You could be doing more damage then good. Possibly speeding up cure time too much with excessive heat and warping your mold... What I do is, have my bottles of epoxy sitting in a pot of hot water from the sink for about 10 mins. Heating up your epoxy in that manner also thins out your epoxy making it easier to pour and mix. No need to heat up your mold in oven. Especially when all your mold needs to be is about 75 degrees. On the other hand, COLD TEMPS ARE A NO NO, AND LOW HUMIDITY IS A MUST. Or you risk it turning milky white. Another thing that worked for me with "Degassing Only" without a pressure pot, was to place my (small) pictures and molds in my Nu-wave oven at 100 degrees (lowest it goes) and let them cure in there. I guess it kept it at a decent temp for the hour it was in there. And perfect low humidity... I had to use both racks in the oven though. Top rack I covered with foil to divert the air from blowing onto my molds that was placed on bottom rack.... Good luck to you. Hope it works out. I appreciate all your videos and you have helped me with a few projects so far. Keep up the great work. PS. For people concerned with acetone interfering with epoxy curing...You are using such a small amount of acetone that it evaporates before your epoxy cures. I have yet to have a problem with it. I actually keep my acetone in a spray bottle and and give it one or two pumps while mixing the two parts. That is depending on the amount of epoxy I'm working with. For 24 grams of epoxy, I wouldn't use more than one or two drops of acetone from an eyedropper.
Thank you for all this information. I appreciate it.
Regards,
Bob
I enjoy your videos. I love the multi tiered insert for the pressure pot. do you have designs to share or a video on your assembly? Ive got my pressure pot ordered and in transit now. Thank you
Flip grouch this play list, it has the video on building that rack.
My Casting Adventure:
ruclips.net/p/PLd8OGJeP3PxnfxmuBqmksXFwbNoPczz_l
Regards,
Bob