How to Replace Oil Pressure Sender 09-14 Chevy Suburban 1500
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2018
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New Oil Pressure Sender from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ib/1AOSU00031
In the video, 1A Auto shows how to replace a broken or faulty oil pressure sender. The video is applicable to the 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, Chevy Suburban.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2007 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2008 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2009 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2010 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2011 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2012 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2013 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2014 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/oh3/1AXAA00013
• 10mm Wrench 1aau.to/ob7/1AXAA00010
• 27mm socket 1aau.to/oc/1AAST00007
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/ogF/1AXAA00017
• Fuel Line Disconnect Tool 1aau.to/og/1AXAA00041
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oiE/1AXAA00016
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/ohP/1AXAA00015
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oeW/1AXAA00044
• 1-1/16 Inch Wrench
• Cloth Rags 1aau.to/oaQ/1AXSS00035
• Paper Towels 1aau.to/oaQ/1AXSS00035
• Pick 1aau.to/obv/1AXAA00037
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. 
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I had an oil leak, and replaced the intake gaskets, and oil pressure sensor in my 2007 suburban. We found out it was the cylinder deactivation solenoid ( or valley plate). Followed the video step by step, and now my Stabilizer, and engine light is on. Also it is shifting hard from 1st to 2nd. Do you have any idea what it might be? Thank you for the video’s
I guess it is kinda randomly asking but does anyone know of a good place to stream new tv shows online?
Oh my... Don't do all of this work to change the sensor! You don't have to disconnect anything. Reach toward the the sensor from the driver side at about the same height as the sensor, NOT from the top. Your hand will fit under all of the hoses at the back to let you get the electric connector unplugged and help align the socket. Your socket will fit above the hoses onto the sensor directly from the top. Use a universal join at the socket, a 6" extension and a ratchet with a pivoting head. Also, someone else's video using a lag bolt to remove the screen makes that about a 2 minute job. I used a T50 deck bolt to remove mine and it hooked the screen perfectly. All said and done, this is about a 30 minute job.
I had to change the oil pressure sensor on my DIL Chevy Suburban. I was not accessible without removing the intake manifold. There simply wasn't enough room to get my hand or a wrench back there due to a shield (which I can't figure out what the purpose of it was). I used your video as a reference and it was spot on. I really appreciated being able to watch this and refer back to it. Thank you so much. P.S. I am a woman who, although not a mechanic, I do know my way around cars but this really helped me.
I just did mine on my 07 suburban and did not need to take off anything but the plastic cover on top. Hardest part was getting the little screen out. Took me about half hour. Just gotta be good with your hands if your not then don’t try it. Do it like this guy 👍.
Just followed this video step by step for my 2011 gmc sierra 1500 5.3. Fixed my p0523 code with no oil pressure reading. Now it is running with no issues. Thanks for the great video! Saved me a good amount of money to do it myself.
+Matt Stith Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Thank you for the detailed installation instructions. I am going to attempt to replace the Oil pressure sender tomorrow with confidence due to your instruction.
No fear, I just did it myself today while following this video's instruction.
@@georgekaras7162 did it fix ur issue
Thanks for this video! it was very helpful and well explained when I replaced my Oil Pressure sensor last week.
One guy on RUclips only removed 2 lines and replaced the part and put a new one in with one hand while holding his phone in the other hand in 12 minutes lol
Link the vid
I'll post in a sec
Here's the link to the guy that did it in 20 min: ruclips.net/video/yARU6WrjTAU/видео.html
However, make sure you watch this video to get a zoomed in view of how to remove the harness connector: ruclips.net/video/82uaFmFGXqg/видео.html
I tried to remove one of the lines like 12x and could never get it off (the one further down below) and yes I was pushing in the release. Wouldn't budge. I also couldn't get the safety connector off the pressure sensor, so the 20 min fix did NOT work for me...it's very difficult/tight to be in the engine compartment and trying to get that in the very back.
yup, saw this, not sure why anyone would remove the intake to change this switch. unless they milking the customer on labor.
He mentioned at the beginning of the video That he was going to remove the intake manifold so the sensor would be visible in the video.
Absolutely the best video of this proceedure on youtube and the internet, THANK YOU.
Thank you for such a detailed video. This will save me money.
you guys, allways do the right way, thank's
Great video. I followed it step by step and was able to replace the oil pressure sensor and filter. The only thing I did different was that I took out the alternator also to make it easier to pull off the intake. Maybe this was due to the engine in my Escalade being a 6.2L. Anyways, thanks again for making this video.
I love the videos y'all post! Thank you!!!
I tried the “shortcut” method posted elsewhere. I could not remove the connector as it was on the far side. I could raise the lock but I could not push the release. Worked at it for a couple of hours. My arm is still very sore four days later. Anyway, I followed your step by step slow and steady. Piece of cake.
One should know that I watched quite a few RUclips videos before starting, but still had to lay towels over the engine, use a stool, and do some of the work left-handed. I was able to remove one end of a plastic tube at the rear of the engine for more clearance. I did not remove a second tube or the fuel line at its connection. I broke off the gray "protector" on the oil sender harness connector with a screwdriver, and with left hand pushing a long screwdriver against the connector tab and right hand on the connector, I was finally able to release the connector from the oil sender. The special 1 1/16" oil sender socket I bought like 25 years ago did not fit over the sender, I used a 27mm deep socket. Then I used a 1/2" wobble extension, about 5" long, and that was not easy to push into the 27mm deep socket, but the socket had to go on first. Then I used a stubby 1/2" drive flex ratchet to unscrew the oil sender.
Of course once that was unthreaded it fell somewhere so that took 15 minutes or more to find & remove. So I went to O'Reilly and bought PS508 oil sender, which actually did fit my special socket (but I still used the 27mm deep one).
So with the new sender (I did not even try to find if the engine had a filter screen, I didn't feel one) purchased, I tied a piece of twine around it it case I dropped that, and screwed that in a few turns with my left hand. Then I put the 27mm deep socket over that, then the wobble extension, then the stubby flex ratchet. 15 minutes later I had that screwed in, and actually in similar orientation as the factory one. So 10 minutes more to remove those tools without dropping them. So 15 minutes later I was able to blindly turn the connector to correct orientation to snap that on.
I re-connected the one plastic pipe I had removed, and started the Yukon: no oil pressure displayed, and check engine light was still on. So I disconnected the battery, touched cables together to erase all codes/clear computer, reconnected the battery, and started it up: all was working - SUCCESS !!!
So even though The Cuss cannot fix everything, I was successful today. Yes, this took me several hours, but since I'd just ordered Mrs. Cusser 4 new tires (as the 5-year-old ones were quite dry-rotted), felt why not save $300 to $500 by doing this myself. Some mechanics apparently remove the entire intake manifold for easy access, but that's labor hours. For me, trouble with the special oil sender socket I had threw me for a loop, but the 27mm deep socket I had did save me.
Realize that 4 different times I packed up stuff and quit, saying the mechanic could try his luck Tuesday, but The Cuss is a persistent little cuss, for sure. Mrs. Cusser is ecstatic, and promised to take care of me tonight....
Awesome video. You demystify the removal of the intake manifold and make it look easy. For the life of me I can see no reason for the plastic shield that is installed at the back of the manifold other than to make it almost impossible to reach the oil pressure sensor. If it's purpose is to stop oil from spraying on the manifold in event of a catastrophic failure of the oil pressure sensor, it's not worth it. That would be a rare event and not a big issue even if it occurred in terms of mess.
+Nacho Man Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I cut mine off with shears on my tahoe and yukon
Excellent video! Clearly showed how connectors were released etc. for a DIYer.
You guys are awesome, saved me a lot of hassle.thanks again
I really do appreciate you and this video
Great video. Excellent job.
I know you said you don't have to take all that off to do this job just wanted to say I can appreciate this video showing what it actually looks like replacing it thanks a bunch 😊
I fixed the car thanks to your video only cost me $5.50 I appreciate it
Best intake removal video on RUclips
Excellent video.....wow!
Very informative! Much appreciated! 🙏
just want to say thank you for this video ,I have seen others video that show you how to do replace it by doing a short cut ,I disabled the hole thing I you show it I nt the video and its took me 5 hours for doing the first time and by doing it I noticed a couple of other issues that I put on the list to fix it me self , once again than you !
+@alcafona3240 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video thanks for thorough explanation.
Very well explained, great detail and A great help.
+Myks Garage Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I just did this today without taking off ANYTHING but the plug and swapping the sensor!!!!
Even though many get by without taking off the intake, your video gave much better views of how to disconnect the sensor and how to remove the screen. Thank you! Does anybody know which models have the screen, when it was introduced? The manual on my 2000 Suburban makes no mention of a screen....
Great video! 👍
+Rob D Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto
En verdad te agradezco este video camarada
Thank you for the feedback! +g sangabriel
Perfect job👍
+باسم رحيم Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
I did this last night to my mothers car .it took me about 30 minutes after I got everything set up .I didn't have to go thru all of this I just reach behind the intake and changed it .
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +Bruce Johnson
I tried that, but the darn thing was
1) facing the engine on the clip side, making it impossible to get off.
2) even with the intake off, that thing was nearly glued on there. I ended up accidentally breaking off the connector’s clip. I’m hoping it won’t pop off...
@@nathanj1876 have you had any problems? My connector safety clip came off and disappeared...
Beautiffully Detailed video perfect.
+b Estabrooks Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
It pays to have small hands, only think I had to remove was the beauty cover! Great video either way.
+Scott Ringold Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Excellent explication AAAA+++
+Mario Ruiz Thanks for checking us out!
thanks for perfect job and explaining I think it is better to flush old oil by liqui Moly to clean oil circle and put a new oil and then change oil pressure sensor and screen filter >
You guys have successfully scared many people away from doing this job🤣🤣🤣 at least you were honest and said you don't have to go through all that and there are other videos in which people don't go through removing a quarter of that stuff. Maybe the video would be better off titled "Replacing the oil sending unit and while im at it replacing the intake gasket"🤣🤣🤣🤣
that screen is literally 5 bucks but 200 bucks in labour to replace it
I did the same, and also removed the spare tire just in case, worked perfectly fine, 18 hrs later it was done.😅
Good video, thank you. It would be helpful to list a realistic estimate of time for each project at the beginning of your videos - perhaps a time range since there are amateurs to experts performing these steps. Thank you.
Thanks!
Great video! Can you replace the screen if you do this with the intake manifold on?
Yes using a lag bolt
How difficult should it be to remove the filter screen...and about how deep is the screen inserted into the engine oil galley?
The torque specs seem like they're suspect because at 44 ft/lbs and 89ft/lbs it caused my brother to break his bolt which we used a torque wrench to those specifications at 44! Instead of breaking more bolts, we decided to tighten them manually to where we felt comfortable. Overall, still a very useful video to help us with the job.
The 5.3L is fairly easy to get to without taking off the intake. It's a challenge on the 6.2L though. What I like to do is unbolt the rear transmission mount. Jack the trans tail up with a block of wood. That tilts the engine away from the firewall about 3 inches. Gives you alot more room to work. a 5/16 -18 bolt that is 4 inches long threads right into the screen and helps you pull it right up.
That makes sense. I tried the "quick" way on my wife's Denali and for the life of me I can't get the damn connector unhooked. I'll be pulling the intake.
impressed!!!!
What other PM can you do behind intake while it's out of the way?
BTW, great video.
okay. so looking @ the part of taking off the fuel line. I'm using the same tool, yet the hose is not coming off. I'm thinking if something could be pressuring it from opening so easy like urs. so what could it be?
If you go this route, do you have to replace the intake gaskets too or can they be reused?
Do you have to replace the manifold gaskets
And now you understand why a mechanic in a service station will charge anywhere between 4 and 800 dollars just to replace that sensor, which is WELL under a 100 dollar part WITH a new filter. OR, this can be easily, mostly, right at home with OUT removing the manifold. The bear is that sound/heat deflector piece held on by a single 10 mil nut. I created some space and using additional protection of small sheet metal shields, and cut away the half of the shield blocking the sensor. Once that was done, I had full access.
It took several starts and stops of the engine before the pressure started reading on the gauge. My check engine light was still on so I disconnected the positive and then negative wires from the battery, depressed the horn a few times to ensure all current was gone from the system, waited 10 minutes, connected positive and then negative terminals, and check engine light was out. Had to reprogram a couple things but no big deal. This is a DIY project absolutely…just grab some extra patience along with your tools….cause you’ll need them.
I have the same code, but my oil gauge works fine and I dont see any leaks. Any ideas that I should look into. 2012 gmc sierra 5.3l v8
just did this on my 2000 Silverado 5.3 piss on pulling the intake off 🤣😂 its not that bad took about 15 minutes to switch out. if you pull the intake more power to ya
I love the on star navigation and the hand's Free communication device so I can have more time for games and driving right
Will the low oil pressure warning light remain on of i replaced the pressure sensor without disconnecting the battery?
+MrNeverWrong It's good practice to disconnect the battery when doing anything electrical. Sometimes for a sensor, it doesn't hurt to disconnect then reconnect the battery because that might solve the issue, instead of starting at replacing the sensor
I wonder if the 6.2 liter has a screen as well. Or is it only the 5.3?
Will this sequence work on a 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche. Asking because everything looks the same as under the hood of my Avy.
+Joe Adams This process will be the same on the 2009-2013 Avalanche, while the steps may be similar for your 2007, there may be a few things you come across that are different. 1aauto.com
Will the process be the same for a 2007 suburban 1500. ? Thank you
Yes
On the little screen.. another video showed using a 1/4” lag bolt to remove it. Piece of cake.
Hello sir ,after changing oil pump and sensor for 2018 suburban still engine light came says low oil pressure?
8:23 see those two hose where his hand only remove those hoses so your hand will fit behind the intake back plate none of the rest. us a pick to unhook the clips 5/16 x 5" bolt to remove the filler 1-1/16 deep socket with 6'ex and swil this vid is what chevy dealer with do to get 800 plus from you
I tried cutting away some of that rear shield so I could access the sensor easily but my snips can’t get in there enough to reach. So looks like I’m removing the intake.
Just did this without removing the intake. There are plenty of vids showing how but I will warn you...be careful not to bend the Evap hardline going from the solenoid back to the firewall and behind the engine. it’s a bear if you break it...like I did.
True man The one next to it that connects from the top of valve cover to intake snapped like a Tooth PiCK junk plastic! Aka PCV valve tubing part number:12611592
Didn't work for me. I tried to remove one of the lines like 12x and could never get it off (the one further down below) and yes I was pushing in the release. Wouldn't budge. I also couldn't get the safety connector off the pressure sensor, so the 20 min fix did NOT work for me...it's very difficult/tight to be in the engine compartment and trying to get that in the very back.
Here's the link to the guy that did it in 20 min: ruclips.net/video/yARU6WrjTAU/видео.html
However, make sure you watch this video to get a zoomed in view of how to remove the harness connector: ruclips.net/video/82uaFmFGXqg/видео.html
do you have pcv valve for tahoe 2011 5.3 flex fuel engine at 1A AUTO ?
+fasooly777 Thank you for your question. I apologize we currently do not carry the PCV Valve for your Tahoe. You could try eBay motors.
Do anyone know what is the name of. The Gold. Piece Connect to the oil cooler Swish I was trying to change the oil cooler switch and the piece. break. I appreciate all anyone knows the name of the piece. Thank you 🙏
A little bit of gas leaked down in the ports before I could cover with shop towels to stop things from going down in them
Am I screwed?
Is it safe when in cold start goes to 50-65psi then it goes back to 35-40psi after warming up? That’s what my gauge is displaying after changing the sensor. 🤔
Normal
Is this the same procedure for a 2008 GMC Yukon?
+Omar Trujillo We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
i have a po521 but the gauge is between 20 anf 40...what now?
Is this the same procedure for a 2008 Chevy Suburban 1500?
+Kai Champaign We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have changed oil pressure sensors and oil pump and sender unit and o ring and my oil pressure is still dropping can you help me
there is a filter that set under the sensor if its clog up that can be why if you have a filter
Uh was it necessary to take off the intake just to change out the oil sending unit or did I miss something 🤔
will this work on a 2007 tahoe
+Big John Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
man thanks for all that informacion just do more easy top the customer buy the product by aplicacion o like amazon its complete easy
+Marco e Hunny Boo Thank you!
Thanks for the helpful vid. Imagine, if you will, that some idiot with an engineering degree actually got paid to design where to put this sending unit. They must have been related to the engineer that designed the aluminum heads on my F-250 / 6.8 with only 1/4" of thread for the spark plug hole.
You can the old reach around and not have to take all that stuff off
I have low oil pressure but no knock in engine can somebody guide me please!!
Also I have no CEL
Well if you watch the video you will clearly be guided
It may also be the oil pick up tube o-ring. Those are notorious for going bad on these engines. My oil pressure was around 20psi at idle, cruising around 35. I replaced the o-ring and it shot right up to 40psi at idle and 50-60 when cruising. Granted, these engines only need about 7psi of oil pressure to run fine.
Is it safe to drive if it stays at 80 ?
I can understand why they charge so much to work on a vehicle. I would be screwed but the individual needs gas or they will have a new problem
I worked hard to buy that truck and thinks to people who let me know about problems I might are could have.i will be only going to work and home.
I have read and seen a lot of people say you dont need the screen
Always change the filter
can you get the screen on by reaching back there
I think the people who like to help me and pray for the people who try to take advantage of me
You didn’t change the filter under the switch???
Just for help you can remove that censor in 20 minutes you don’t have to take all that just stick you hand in the back an is ready is a lot videos on you tube tanks 🙂
Something tells me that if you can get your hand back there to disconnect the oil sender from the harness, you should be able to get a tool back there to take out the sender.
You can if your hands aren't too big. I just helped a friend do his sending unit tonight.
It’s like being one with your vehicle. Although it’s rough not seeing what your doing, patients is key. Plus I kept Taking pictures of what I’m doing.
Here's the link to the guy that did it in 20 min: ruclips.net/video/yARU6WrjTAU/видео.html
However, make sure you watch this video to get a zoomed in view of how to remove the harness connector: ruclips.net/video/82uaFmFGXqg/видео.html
I tried to remove one of the lines like 12x and could never get it off (the one further down below) and yes I was pushing in the release. Wouldn't budge. I also couldn't get the safety connector off the pressure sensor, so the 20 min fix did NOT work for me...it's very difficult/tight to be in the engine compartment and trying to get that in the very back.
Crazy how import that 10 mm is 😂
You can replace it without removing the intake.did one today.its no fun.next time I'm removing the intake
Didn't work for me. I tried to remove one of the lines like 12x and could never get it off (the one further down below) and yes I was pushing in the release. Wouldn't budge. I also couldn't get the safety connector off the pressure sensor, so the 20 min fix did NOT work for me...it's very difficult/tight to be in the engine compartment and trying to get that in the very back.
Here's the link to the guy that did it in 20 min: ruclips.net/video/yARU6WrjTAU/видео.html
However, make sure you watch this video to get a zoomed in view of how to remove the harness connector: ruclips.net/video/82uaFmFGXqg/видео.html
This seems like a lot of work for such a small part. No wonder these shops are charging 150 an hour lol
You did to much work all you have to do is us the correct socket, a u swivel adapter, 3” extension, u joint adapter 6” extension, ratchet and their you go buddy it comes right out, hope this helps 💪🏽👍🏽
What if you didn’t push the screen down with your finger?
P.S. more you take off the more that can break
If it shows no pressure but the motor sounds fine how far could you drive it b4 fixing?
+ICU81 2 We would recommend taking this to a mechanic and having them examine the issue. We would not be able to say how long you can go on a bad pressure sender.
@@1AAuto well I plan on fixing it my self I do all my repairs my self I am jw incase it happens with me driven down the road I travel alot in the summer and was jw what you guys thought on far I could make it so I'm not sitting along the interstate
These sensors are cheap junk. Im on the third one on my 6.2L Denali. Having said that Ive never removed the intake. Throw an area rug over the engine, crawl on top and do battle. The "made for Sensor" sockets at the auto parts store are best, be sure to get the shorter length one. Its about a two hour job, but still beats pulling the intake.
Now i see why other channels bye passed all this.
+Truth Revealed Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
There is a much simpler and easier way to do this job . It only takes about 30 min from start to finish .
To much wrk..
It dose not take all that
I did mine in less than 30min
An I didn't disconnect nuthn
I like u guys.but to much going on in this video..not necessary..good luck
Yea I took the short cut everyone and lett me tell you I only disconnected those to plastic lines to get my hand in there with the right tools and what gave me hell believe it or not was not the sensor or the clip, i was stuck for hours trying to get the oem sensor socket from Autozone off the sensor it wouldn’t come off kept yanking the extension and wouldn’t come off then to make my day worse I got desperate started to loosen the sensor to pull it all out then it popped off on the way up to me and fell behind the center firewall and got stuck in a unreachable area I couldn’t see then I recovered then I was back to square 1 with fighting the socket talk about an experience or headache but you do what you gotta do to avoid pirates at the shops I do all my maintenance on my vehicles I ain’t no push over! Good luck guys I always manage
Didn't work for me.
I tried to remove one of the lines like 12x and could never get it off (the one further down below) and yes I was pushing in the release. Wouldn't budge. I also couldn't get the safety connector off the pressure sensor, so the 20 min fix did NOT work for me...it's very difficult/tight to be in the engine compartment and trying to get that in the very back.
Here's the link to the guy that did it in 20 min: ruclips.net/video/yARU6WrjTAU/видео.html
However, make sure you watch this video to get a zoomed in view of how to remove the harness connector: ruclips.net/video/82uaFmFGXqg/видео.html
Why take the intake off? Not necessary
Oil leak at pressure senser