I really appreciate Paul's demeanor as a craftsman and a teacher, which I probably didn't realize a couple years ago when I found the channel. It literally brings woodworking down to earth for a regular Joe like me. ❤it!
Dear Mr. Sellers. I am so happy and thankfull for your content. I got in contact with your videos a couple of years ago as I planned to build a workbench. I saw you planing in your garden. It was spring, the laburnum tree in the background stood in his brightest yellow, the seagulls were yelling in the sky. I watched those videos over and over again. I learnd about the knife wall and I was introduced to the poor mans router. "This is you, working real wood." I heard you say and I saw the smile on your face. I believed you then and I believe you now: every word you said/say and every expression of your feelings. Dear Mr. Sellers, this is you, creating sense. Please, keep on doing that. Whithout we have ever met, your spirit (I dont't have a better word right now) has become a little, wonderfull part of some aspects in my life. Thank you for that. Yours sincerely, lav val from Germany
Thank you! There are so many "master" classes available these days, but very few I've found that focus on elementary skill development. I live for this kind of thing!
you all prolly dont care at all but does anybody know of a method to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot the account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
Yeah...I never learned the basics of Hand saw techniques....I just imitated alot of carpenters , to the best of my ability , through the years...never really questioning how much energy I was wasting...then I went into miter saws, and skill circular saws...and the jobs came faster, but less satisfying....Now I am relearning the basics again, in proper time & order.
The knife wall/chisel combination is brilliant. It's humbling and if it wasn't for Paul's five decades of experience, I would feel like a knucklehead for some of the deplorable cuts I've made.
Hi Paul. I have been watching your videos since I retired 3 years ago. Taking up wood working from my engineering background. Pretty much on ever occasion in my work shop some aspects of your teachings comes to mind. Hopefully making me a better wood worker. Thank you keep up the good work very well delivered.
littlecicero To some degree problem solving, looking after tools and maintaining equipment. Precision etc: Woodworking has its own unique challenges ie grain which sends tools off line this is sometimes is frustrating
Thank you so much Paul for the sawing straight tip. Just tried it and I went from being approximately 1/4" or more off the line to almost dead on. Not perfect but much, much better. Love your teaching videos!
There has never been a basic or beginner course that I repeated where I did not pick up something new. Paul, your training is no exception. I ALWAYS learn something. Thank you.
You hit the nail on the head - until I seriously started working with hand saws, every single saw I ever used was a worn and dull wreck. I have seen so many people take a beautifully sharp saw and practically bulldog it within 1/2" of it's poor life, myself included originally. It is so nice to see and hear just how sharp your saws are as it gives us all an example to work towards. Thank you!
I've come here from your bench building video as I noticed you have a slight movement on the blade at the end of the backward stroke. Is there a reason for that 'swing', like clearing waste away from the cut? I can't cut a straight line for love nor money but I hope to rectify that now after watching this. I'm really impressed with the speed of hand tools and the reduction of noise and dust is noticeable. Thanks for the demo.
I actually have two purposes for your videos... Education and Relaxation! I often put a random video on and use it as a backing track to yoga! Something very soothing about the sound of woodworking.
Thank you Paul for another very informative video. Sawing square has been a definite problem for me most of my woodworking life. Having a well set up saw and patience seems to be the items I am missing most but your videos continue to press home the need to prepare your tools and your attitude properly and the work becomes much more enjoyable and productive. Have a good week ahead.
Paul, eye dominance would be worth a mention too. I’m right handed but left eye dominant and find that if I don’t compensate my cut tends to veer off to the right a little, fortunately toward the waste side...
The biggest mistake I keep making is to grip the saw like I’m trying to save its life. Loose grip, guide it through the wood - and get a decent saw. Doesn’t cost a fortune: if I’m not mistaken Paul is using a £25 handsaw by Spear & Jackson, nothing fancy or antique. Decent Japanese saws are affordable as well.
He is also pointing his finger. I saw this on a seejanedrill video as well. Apparently you are supposed to do this but not everyone has been taught this (including me).
@@27ph A lot of people recommend pointing the index finger, and it seems to work for me too - just feels right. Although the shape of many tenon and dovetail saws seems to suggest that you’re supposed to wrap your index finger around the handle, and I once heard someone say that that’s indeed the case. No idea - I suspect that pointing the index finger is something that people have started doing over the years, and it seems to work for most. It also helps you remember that you’re not supposed to grip the saw until your knuckles go white.
Thank u sir i was unable to cut wood straight with a saw but after looking into ur video u just give the right idea to cut the wood straight. Thanks a lot sir 🥰☺️
i remember nearly 60 years ago watching a carpenter add two rooms to our house when we first moved to nz. no power tools at all. he could cut a 4 x 2 with a handsaw as quickly as i have seen carpenters do it now with a skillsaw. it was dead square and a perfect fit to where it was meant to go. thats what we have lost. true skill and an understanding of real craft. a good friend of mine is a retired carpenter and he says the kids training today can't do half of what he had to learn.
And don't forget to brush up on your footwork while you are at it... And then stropping your marking knife.. Before making some stropping paste.. Gosh darn! I'm so busy improving my head that I never make anything 😂😂😅😅😩😩😢😢
Any advice on rip cutting a board? I've been using a knife line, good and good and clear, but thinking perhaps a kerfing plane would help on long rips? And how about cutting larger panels (2-4ft)?
Hi Paul One thing that has helped me is the reflection in the blade if you're not straight the reflection is off as well, the mirror image edge should look like it's a continuation of the real edge if it's off you see the angle in the reflection. Same with working with chisels, I use that little technique to cut edgetape square helps alot and it's quick as well
Holy crap, I chiseled out my first knife wall yesterday, and he makes that look so easy to follow an unchiseled one with the saw. I feel like we all need to remember that Paul is the Olympic Gold Medalist of word working, with the best tools available to man, the rest of us scrubs working with hopeful skills and mediocre tools have a lot more opportunity to screw up a lot in little ways that we can't even necessarily identify right away.
"The angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection." For carpentry, I use the reflection of the pencil lines on the polished saw as a visual guide to a achieve square cuts.
OUTSTANDING demo...thanks Paul !! I thought one had to have olympian triceps and superman grip...to work a hand saw for 2 hour jobs...lol ...(that's what my steroid boss use to say, every day. ) You've definitely proved him wrong.
Hey Paul. I haven't been watching ur videos for a wee while but I'm glad to be back watching bcos u make things sound very clear and concise. U show us indepth how to do the simplest things like getting these straight cuts. I'm trying to build my 1st workbench atm and I'm struggling with getting similar length cuts on all the legs. I am using a hand saw to cut my timber as well Paul so I guess that is why I'm not having any repeatable success. I have a jointer/thicknesser though so would it be possible to clamps them together and plane them down to one length that way or should I do it one board at a time? I would be very grateful if u could give me some advice or helpful tips on this process. Love the videos btw. Keep em coming Paul. Salute to u Sir from IRELAND..
One thing you are doing which I'm sure comes naturally to you, so naturally that it is easy to forget you are doing it, is that you use your index finger to point along the saw blade rather than using it to hold the handle. Pointing the index finger in this way helps keep the saw in line and stops it straying during the cut. Try the same cut twice in both ways and you'll soon see how much of I difference it makes. Thanks for the video. Subscribed.
@Charles White Yes that's true. But by pointing your finger along the blade you get improved feedback from the blade and greater accuracy in my experience. I'm bias through since my old woodworking teacher in the 70's swore by this method and it has served me very well.
Thanks Paul. I'm very much a beginner. The one comment I can add to the don't press down on the saw when starting the cut is that with a sharp saw the teeth can grab so I don't even let the weight of the saw rest on the wood. In effect, I am essentially also keeping even the weight of the saw off the wood to start the cut. Your comment of just kissing the wood with the saw addresses it but may not jump out at folks. When I started doing this, it really helped me start a cut.
Scribe a deep line with a sharp knife.Then from the "waste end" of the wood, chisel into the scribe line. This creates a triangular shaped channel, which provides a guide for the saw. Takes a bit longer but gives an excellent result. Motorized saws are very inexpensive and give perfectly square saw cuts. Hand skills are good to have but modern machinery will create tight mortice and scarf joints that the hand sawman can only dream about.
Woodworking machines are only as accurate as the way in which the wood is presented to them. There’s also no reason why hand cut mortise and tenons can't be as accurate and tight fitting as their machine cut counterparts.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for the tip of using the knife and not the pencil ( knife nick et al). As a beginner I already know that I will be more accurate in my cuts and I haven’t even tried it yet.
If I can offer my tip: this works better for more square-ish section but if you mark your square lines on 2 faces as usual but then cock the wood at 45 degrees (roughly) to your vision such that what you see is a straight line across both faces and then cut it as if it were 2 dimensional then you can't really go wrong. I used this technique to cut 4x5 ish pieces for a workbench and simply opened up the jaws of a black and decker workmate a few inches such that the wood sits in the gap at roughly 45 degrees to the normal flat position if that makes sense. Think diamond vs square if you rotate the square. If you follow the line you are by definition cutting square.
For the first board, though, shouldn't the lines be squared off the same edge? In the stagehands I was taught that while the mill may make each edge perfectly 90 degrees by itself, due to flexing of the wood, that doesn't necessarily mean all the edges are perfectly squared to each other.
Excellent tips! I'm having difficulties with a carcass saw. If I cut across a face, sometimes the cut is "S" shaped, or cupped. The saw is brand new from a reputable heirloom quality company. What am I doing wrong?
For anyone that havent tried a japanese saw.. doit! My 2 cents on getting straight cuts.. I used to curve to the right as i got down into the work piece no matter what i did. (flipping turning carving tuning) But I got me a two sided japanese saw for about 30 euro and suddenly cuts where becoming straight. Main reason for me is probably because I start with a backstroke and I can keep my swing straight with the stick handle instead of a pistol grip. Also.. the blade is completely backwards like a reversed rip/cut saw... teeth almost points in and widest part is in the top... Like me... a bit backwards, right handed but plays hockey with a right shot, skateboarding goofy with my left foot first, hold the tape measure with my left and so on.
Where did you get your wooden-handled saw? Can it be sharpened? What about your knife too? I hate all the plastic tools and want to treat myself to a new saw or two, while undertaking a woodwork course to hopefully get into the trade.
I’ve followed various instructions but I just need to see it done: can you show us how to saw accurately with a Japanese pull saw? My cuts come out inaccurately every time I go slowly-I can’t go any slower!
a stable rest and clamp are half the battle. you can hold and cut, but it wont be nearly as well as if you are free to only cut. Also, the first few cuts are half the battle also, like paul shows, i think relaxing and getting the first guide cuts are the other half the battle. understanding whats happening in the first 20 seconds of each cut is the critical time to focus on i think.
I believe it helps him avoid sawing into the bench top (on through cuts, anyway). If you look at his earlier videos on the older bench (and a different shop) you'll see that his bench top is pretty chewed up next to the vise thanks to that technique. I don't put the wood in my vise for cross cuts. There are better ways to hold it for that cut. I prefer a bench hook. You don't have to worry about dropping your elbow or going into a crouch to avoid cutting into the bench top. You can maintain proper posture. A RUclips search for "bench hook" will yield plenty of videos on how to make/use one.
4 года назад
@Charles White I am not questioning Paul's expertise. Just had some curiosity as to why he holds the work thus. It seems to me that gravity has some bearing when sawing. I always keep the work as horizontal as possible and wrist,elbow and shoulder in line with the cut, a bit like a piston.
OK, I think I read all the comments, however, what I didn't see or missed is the importance of measuring and marking from one reference face and one reference edge ( flat, straight and planed or jointed square with a hand tool or otherwise) can help with achieving a square handsaw cut. Your advice on that aspect would be appreciated.
jesus! this guy makes it look effortless.
same: "just follow the line" ..................yeah
9 29 of mastery
Using all your senses including sound and leg position: standing ovation Paul
"I'm listening to the wood", topnotch. Thank you for all your time.
I really appreciate Paul's demeanor as a craftsman and a teacher, which I probably didn't realize a couple years ago when I found the channel. It literally brings woodworking down to earth for a regular Joe like me. ❤it!
Dear Mr. Sellers.
I am so happy and thankfull for your content.
I got in contact with your videos a couple of years ago as I planned to build a workbench.
I saw you planing in your garden. It was spring, the laburnum tree in the background stood in his brightest yellow, the seagulls were yelling in the sky.
I watched those videos over and over again.
I learnd about the knife wall and I was introduced to the poor mans router. "This is you, working real wood." I heard you say and I saw the smile on your face. I believed you then and I believe you now: every word you said/say and every expression of your feelings.
Dear Mr. Sellers, this is you, creating sense. Please, keep on doing that.
Whithout we have ever met, your spirit (I dont't have a better word right now) has become a little, wonderfull part of some aspects in my life. Thank you for that.
Yours sincerely,
lav val from Germany
lav val lovely comment
Thank you! There are so many "master" classes available these days, but very few I've found that focus on elementary skill development. I live for this kind of thing!
you all prolly dont care at all but does anybody know of a method to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot the account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
Jojj
Thank you for sharing your skills with us. I have learned so much from your beautifully made videos. You are a great tutor!
I have gotten so used to modern machinery that I have forgotten the basics and the satisfaction that came with it
Thanks.....your videos inspire me
Yeah...I never learned the basics of Hand saw techniques....I just imitated alot of carpenters , to the best of my ability , through the years...never really questioning how much energy I was wasting...then I went into miter saws, and skill circular saws...and the jobs came faster, but less satisfying....Now I am relearning the basics again, in proper time & order.
My first tablesaw was 2 sawhorses and a Dissan. Learning to cut on the push, gently, will give great speed and accuracy. I would practice on plywood.
@@jamesalexander8368 Yes...Practice is my new direction ....thanks for the suggestion. cheers
The knife wall/chisel combination is brilliant. It's humbling and if it wasn't for Paul's five decades of experience, I would feel like a knucklehead for some of the deplorable cuts I've made.
That technique has been around for a lot longer than Paul -- probably centuries, at least.
So nice to see such a well made video with such a clear explanation focused on a single how-to.
Hi Paul. I have been watching your videos since I retired 3 years ago. Taking up wood working from my engineering background. Pretty much on ever occasion in my work shop some aspects of your teachings comes to mind. Hopefully making me a better wood worker. Thank you keep up the good work very well delivered.
John Barnes does the engineering background help at all?
littlecicero To some degree problem solving, looking after tools and maintaining equipment. Precision etc: Woodworking has its own unique challenges ie grain which sends tools off line this is sometimes is frustrating
Thank you so much Paul for the sawing straight tip. Just tried it and I went from being approximately 1/4" or more off the line to almost dead on. Not perfect but much, much better. Love your teaching videos!
Thank you, thank you. It's all in the approach and blade angle. I will be practicing today. You are a one in a million tutor.
There has never been a basic or beginner course that I repeated where I did not pick up something new. Paul, your training is no exception. I ALWAYS learn something. Thank you.
You hit the nail on the head - until I seriously started working with hand saws, every single saw I ever used was a worn and dull wreck. I have seen so many people take a beautifully sharp saw and practically bulldog it within 1/2" of it's poor life, myself included originally. It is so nice to see and hear just how sharp your saws are as it gives us all an example to work towards. Thank you!
I've come here from your bench building video as I noticed you have a slight movement on the
blade at the end of the backward stroke. Is there a reason for that 'swing', like clearing waste
away from the cut? I can't cut a straight line for love nor money but I hope to rectify that now after
watching this. I'm really impressed with the speed of hand tools and the reduction
of noise and dust is noticeable. Thanks for the demo.
I actually have two purposes for your videos... Education and Relaxation! I often put a random video on and use it as a backing track to yoga! Something very soothing about the sound of woodworking.
One of the issues here is patience. It is as much a skill to be learned as the woodworking techniques.
My wife says I need patience. If I wanted that I would have been a doctor. :)
Patience is the very first tool ya put in your tool box I tell my apprentices eh... Üö
that's funny :D just right before I read your comment. I was thinking "I'm not patient enough.
@@stubowl1 Sick comment! I also need to work on this skill. ;)
Exactly.... Even I need it..😊
thanks for the tips.. i struggle a lot with cutting plumb, id love to get your tips there too
Thanks Paul. I always struggled to saw straight, but using your method I can now cut nice and square 👍
All these years and I never knew how to do it properly. Thanks very much.
This is awesome, I haven't learnt how to use a saw and I constantly veer it off. Then I am now realizing I have been pushing down, thank you.
Just realizing how old and not sharp my saws are. Great video.
Your knowledge and experience is invaluable, thanks for sharing. Your videos well done and communicated. Thank you for your posts.
Thank you Paul for another very informative video. Sawing square has been a definite problem for me most of my woodworking life. Having a well set up saw and patience seems to be the items I am missing most but your videos continue to press home the need to prepare your tools and your attitude properly and the work becomes much more enjoyable and productive. Have a good week ahead.
Nicely said...cheers
I never would have thought about the parallel knife walls! Definitely going to be using that moving forward.
Tip of the cap to you, sir.
Mr. Paul your videos are very interesting and impressive to guide about the basics of wood works especially for beginner.
Again you explain it so well And it all makes sense thank you Well Done
I'm starting getting into woodworking using hand tools only and my piece de resistence is still getting nice even crosscuts. This video helped a lot!
This is what years of practice does for technique. Great information, thanks.
Beautifully explained and executed
Paul, eye dominance would be worth a mention too. I’m right handed but left eye dominant and find that if I don’t compensate my cut tends to veer off to the right a little, fortunately toward the waste side...
The biggest mistake I keep making is to grip the saw like I’m trying to save its life. Loose grip, guide it through the wood - and get a decent saw. Doesn’t cost a fortune: if I’m not mistaken Paul is using a £25 handsaw by Spear & Jackson, nothing fancy or antique. Decent Japanese saws are affordable as well.
He is also pointing his finger. I saw this on a seejanedrill video as well. Apparently you are supposed to do this but not everyone has been taught this (including me).
@@27ph A lot of people recommend pointing the index finger, and it seems to work for me too - just feels right. Although the shape of many tenon and dovetail saws seems to suggest that you’re supposed to wrap your index finger around the handle, and I once heard someone say that that’s indeed the case. No idea - I suspect that pointing the index finger is something that people have started doing over the years, and it seems to work for most. It also helps you remember that you’re not supposed to grip the saw until your knuckles go white.
Thank u sir i was unable to cut wood straight with a saw but after looking into ur video u just give the right idea to cut the wood straight. Thanks a lot sir 🥰☺️
Thank you for the tips to correct use of hand tools.
i remember nearly 60 years ago watching a carpenter add two rooms to our house when we first moved to nz. no power tools at all. he could cut a 4 x 2 with a handsaw as quickly as i have seen carpenters do it now with a skillsaw. it was dead square and a perfect fit to where it was meant to go. thats what we have lost. true skill and an understanding of real craft. a good friend of mine is a retired carpenter and he says the kids training today can't do half of what he had to learn.
Thanks Paul, much appreciated. Can I ask what saws are being used in the video?
This is great, thanks! Now I'm heading back to your sharpening tutorial...
And don't forget to brush up on your footwork while you are at it...
And then stropping your marking knife..
Before making some stropping paste..
Gosh darn! I'm so busy improving my head that I never make anything 😂😂😅😅😩😩😢😢
My sawing accuracy improved immeasurably when I used the full length of the plate. The greater width near the handle forces a straight cut.
Not forgetting to point the index finger along the saws handle, which helps greatly.
There are ways and there are ways to cut wood. Great demonstration, thanks!
Well explained sir. Thanks for enlightening with ideas.
I’ve seen a few of Peters vids they are excellent
Any advice on rip cutting a board? I've been using a knife line, good and good and clear, but thinking perhaps a kerfing plane would help on long rips? And how about cutting larger panels (2-4ft)?
Excellent technique! It works for me. Thank you.
Hi Paul
One thing that has helped me is the reflection in the blade if you're not straight the reflection is off as well, the mirror image edge should look like it's a continuation of the real edge if it's off you see the angle in the reflection. Same with working with chisels, I use that little technique to cut edgetape square helps alot and it's quick as well
I was going to say much the same thing. I even won a prize with that suggestion. Once you see it can’t unsee it.
@@michaelnorris4629
Want share the prize with me..? 😂🏆🏆🍻🍻
Good class, thank you professor Sellers
Holy crap, I chiseled out my first knife wall yesterday, and he makes that look so easy to follow an unchiseled one with the saw. I feel like we all need to remember that Paul is the Olympic Gold Medalist of word working, with the best tools available to man, the rest of us scrubs working with hopeful skills and mediocre tools have a lot more opportunity to screw up a lot in little ways that we can't even necessarily identify right away.
Thank you Paul. Excellent tutorial, as allways... :-)
Thank you sharing this marvellous video
5:17 onwards - not clear why using 2 lines instead of 1? Surely the saw is just getting put in 1 of the lines? Thanks
Super cool video Paul. Just starting out here so you have saved me years of frustration!
"The angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection." For carpentry, I use the reflection of the pencil lines on the polished saw as a visual guide to a achieve square cuts.
I don't understand this comment...can you knock it down to kindergarten for the class, plz.
Cheers, Paul. What do you think about using miter boxes?
@DaToNyOyO I guess it depends on the width of the stock. In the case of the pieces in the video, I can definitely see your point.
I use a miter box for many of my 2" pieces...but anything bigger, I run to to my miter saw...LOL
OUTSTANDING demo...thanks Paul !!
I thought one had to have olympian triceps and superman grip...to work a hand saw for 2 hour jobs...lol ...(that's what my steroid boss use to say, every day. ) You've definitely proved him wrong.
Paul wise info & techniques as always! Thank You
Hey Paul. I haven't been watching ur videos for a wee while but I'm glad to be back watching bcos u make things sound very clear and concise. U show us indepth how to do the simplest things like getting these straight cuts. I'm trying to build my 1st workbench atm and I'm struggling with getting similar length cuts on all the legs. I am using a hand saw to cut my timber as well Paul so I guess that is why I'm not having any repeatable success. I have a jointer/thicknesser though so would it be possible to clamps them together and plane them down to one length that way or should I do it one board at a time? I would be very grateful if u could give me some advice or helpful tips on this process.
Love the videos btw. Keep em coming Paul. Salute to u Sir from IRELAND..
Спасибо, всегда приятно повторить основы. =)
nice and sharp saw.
One thing you are doing which I'm sure comes naturally to you, so naturally that it is easy to forget you are doing it, is that you use your index finger to point along the saw blade rather than using it to hold the handle. Pointing the index finger in this way helps keep the saw in line and stops it straying during the cut. Try the same cut twice in both ways and you'll soon see how much of I difference it makes. Thanks for the video. Subscribed.
@Charles White Yes that's true. But by pointing your finger along the blade you get improved feedback from the blade and greater accuracy in my experience. I'm bias through since my old woodworking teacher in the 70's swore by this method and it has served me very well.
Once again, thank you
pretty sure those 26 dislikes are from powertool manufacturers
Fantastic lesson. Thank you.
Thanks Paul. I'm very much a beginner. The one comment I can add to the don't press down on the saw when starting the cut is that with a sharp saw the teeth can grab so I don't even let the weight of the saw rest on the wood. In effect, I am essentially also keeping even the weight of the saw off the wood to start the cut. Your comment of just kissing the wood with the saw addresses it but may not jump out at folks. When I started doing this, it really helped me start a cut.
Scribe a deep line with a sharp knife.Then from the "waste end" of the wood, chisel into the scribe line. This creates a triangular shaped channel, which provides a guide for the saw. Takes a bit longer but gives an excellent result. Motorized saws are very inexpensive and give perfectly square saw cuts. Hand skills are good to have but modern machinery will create tight mortice and scarf joints that the hand sawman can only dream about.
Maybe you're watching the wrong channel
Woodworking machines are only as accurate as the way in which the wood is presented to them. There’s also no reason why hand cut mortise and tenons can't be as accurate and tight fitting as their machine cut counterparts.
A great video thank you !
excellent teacher !
Thank you, thank you, thank you for the tip of using the knife and not the pencil ( knife nick et al). As a beginner I already know that I will be more accurate in my cuts and I haven’t even tried it yet.
Practise! With the right saw!
Paul, do you have a list over (quality) tools you need in the beginning stage of woodworking?
Very helpful, thank you.
If I can offer my tip: this works better for more square-ish section but if you mark your square lines on 2 faces as usual but then cock the wood at 45 degrees (roughly) to your vision such that what you see is a straight line across both faces and then cut it as if it were 2 dimensional then you can't really go wrong. I used this technique to cut 4x5 ish pieces for a workbench and simply opened up the jaws of a black and decker workmate a few inches such that the wood sits in the gap at roughly 45 degrees to the normal flat position if that makes sense. Think diamond vs square if you rotate the square. If you follow the line you are by definition cutting square.
For the first board, though, shouldn't the lines be squared off the same edge? In the stagehands I was taught that while the mill may make each edge perfectly 90 degrees by itself, due to flexing of the wood, that doesn't necessarily mean all the edges are perfectly squared to each other.
What is the TPI of the saw you are using? Is the TPI a factor here? Is it crosscut or ripcut set?
Thank you for sharing. Into workshop and try this until its right or no more wood.
Pode me informar, que marca é este serrote , admiro todos os seus vídeos, gostaria de tentar adquirir um modelo destes!
Apologies if this is an odd question, but would one use the same technique for making miter cuts with a hand saw?
Thanks for sharing that, well done
love your work
Excellent tips! I'm having difficulties with a carcass saw. If I cut across a face, sometimes the cut is "S" shaped, or cupped. The saw is brand new from a reputable heirloom quality company. What am I doing wrong?
Have you set the teeth? Often they don't come very well set. Mr. Sellers has a very good video on it if you need a guide.
Great stuff!
Thak you for sharing!
Очень круто! Много полезного узнал! Спасибо, Мастер!
thank you!
Have gone to using piece of wood aligned with cut line
For anyone that havent tried a japanese saw.. doit! My 2 cents on getting straight cuts.. I used to curve to the right as i got down into the work piece no matter what i did. (flipping turning carving tuning) But I got me a two sided japanese saw for about 30 euro and suddenly cuts where becoming straight. Main reason for me is probably because I start with a backstroke and I can keep my swing straight with the stick handle instead of a pistol grip. Also.. the blade is completely backwards like a reversed rip/cut saw... teeth almost points in and widest part is in the top... Like me... a bit backwards, right handed but plays hockey with a right shot, skateboarding goofy with my left foot first, hold the tape measure with my left and so on.
Where did you get your wooden-handled saw? Can it be sharpened? What about your knife too?
I hate all the plastic tools and want to treat myself to a new saw or two, while undertaking a woodwork course to hopefully get into the trade.
Excellent.
Thanks!
Thank you, master Paul!
A 1 tradesman👍
your saw is soooo sharp, i took like 30mins to do one cut on a 0.5 inch dowel
Thx paul
Thanks!
I’ve followed various instructions but I just need to see it done: can you show us how to saw accurately with a Japanese pull saw? My cuts come out inaccurately every time I go slowly-I can’t go any slower!
a stable rest and clamp are half the battle.
you can hold and cut, but it wont be nearly as well as if you are free to only cut.
Also, the first few cuts are half the battle also, like paul shows, i think relaxing and getting the first guide cuts are the other half the battle.
understanding whats happening in the first 20 seconds of each cut is the critical time to focus on i think.
Is there a list of tools Paul uses in videos?
thanks
Hi Paul, one small question for you. Why do you not keep the wood being sawn horizontal in the vice ? It always appears slanted.
I believe it helps him avoid sawing into the bench top (on through cuts, anyway). If you look at his earlier videos on the older bench (and a different shop) you'll see that his bench top is pretty chewed up next to the vise thanks to that technique. I don't put the wood in my vise for cross cuts. There are better ways to hold it for that cut. I prefer a bench hook. You don't have to worry about dropping your elbow or going into a crouch to avoid cutting into the bench top. You can maintain proper posture. A RUclips search for "bench hook" will yield plenty of videos on how to make/use one.
@Charles White I am not questioning Paul's expertise. Just had some curiosity as to why he holds the work thus. It seems to me that gravity has some bearing when sawing. I always keep the work as horizontal as possible and wrist,elbow and shoulder in line with the cut, a bit like a piston.
who makes that clamp? looks better than the high end ones in big box stores with plastic parts. I don't like plastic. Is it steel or aluminum?
commonwoodworking.com/sash-clamps/
the black paint in the video appears different than the blue paint on the sash clamps on the website
at 2:42 I think I can convince myself that he loaded wood in to the clamp like the website teaches, so it must be aluminum bar
at 6:38 for a fraction of a second you can see it is filled with wood.
paulsellers.com/2017/01/screwfix-sash-clamps/
Good infor
OK, I think I read all the comments, however, what I didn't see or missed is the importance of measuring and marking from one reference face and one reference edge ( flat, straight and planed or jointed square with a hand tool or otherwise) can help with achieving a square handsaw cut. Your advice on that aspect would be appreciated.
This is a video on how to saw straight. You're describing layout. Look for a video on layout and you'll find what you're looking for.