Filling And Venting Your UFH Manifold
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2020
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In this video, Martin walks you through the correct procedure for filling your new UFH manifold. When it comes to filling underfloor heating systems, it is very important to listen to all the steps before you begin. This ensures no air is left in the system, giving you a trouble-free installation.
Steps for Filling and Venting Your UFH Manifold:
0:50 - We always begin filling underfloor heating systems by bringing in fresh water. To do that, turn off the isolation valves and turn on the temperature gauge.
1:07 - Next, open up each of the actuator ports and pull the caps off the flow meters. Close all of the flow meters except for the first one.
1:53 - Attach hose lock connectors to the flow and vent ports.
2:24 - Then, attach hose pipes to the top and bottom ports; once you've filled the first circuit, open the next flow meter and repeat the process of filling it. Make sure to close each flow meter after you've filled it.
3:54 - You’ll know it’s time to move on to the next flow meter when you get a constant flow of water.
5:42 - Close off the hose, turn off the water tap, and close the filling port.
6:22 - Last, vent the pump and UFH manifold using the port and the vent keys.
Are you still struggling? Visit our website multipipe.co.uk/ for helpful guides or call our dedicated support line on 01245 850799
#UFH #Multipipe #installation #plumbing #plumbingknowhow #howto 
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Cheers after waiting 11 yrs for the housing association to do this I'm happy with your clear instructions to do this by myself
Finally a very well explained Filling and Venting an underfloor heating system. Thank you
Thanks for showing this. It takes me two viewing to fulling understand. These manifolds are so well designed and the electric actuators are brilliant.
Very helpful and well presented instructions. Wont be doing myself but wanted to know the process as I think we need to flush the system.
Thanks for this, clear, simple, step by step guide and good videography 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’m gonna sound like a broken record and everyone that commented before, but this is a great video, thank you. We’ve just installed a manifold for our radiators, so it’s great see the processes needed to set it up, test it and make it live.
You're welcome. We're glad you found the video helpful and thank you for taking the time to comment.
Excellent, clear demonstration.
Absolutely brilliantly explained, well done thank you 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Brilliant every home should be UFH
Brilliant stuff - thank you so much for doing this
You're welcome! We're happy to help. Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Great video, very clear & helpful
Glad you liked it
Simple and genius 👌
Thanks a lot 😊
Really well explained 😊 thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Man, you helped me a lot with this video!Thank you veeeeeery much!👍👍🍻🍻🍻❤️
Glad it helped!
Thank you very much. This video helped me big time 👍🏻
You're welcome. Thank you for taking the time to comment, it's much appreciated.
Hello, I am an Iranian, my name is Mohammad, you said it very well, thank you for the positive points
Perfect tips, very helping
Glad it was helpful!
Hey, thanks for the video. My flow meters don’t twist open/close like your ones. There’s a nut at the base of each of them which can be twisted all the way off, but this doesn’t appear to have an effect on loosening the flow meter. Any ideas? Thank you :)
Very informative video, thankyou.
Glad it was helpful!
Given that all the 'return' activator ports are open, what stops the water returning from loop 1 (when you are filling it), flowing into loops 2, 3 and 4 by way of their return pipes? Is it the fact the loops are closed on the flow side (so air pressure would encourage the water to take the easier path into your bucket? I'd still have thought some would go in, unless there is a non-return valve built into them somewhere?
Great video, fully understand the process. One small point is that I already have a working system with actuators fitted, how do I open the actuator ports?
The best thing is to mark the actuators in the order they are. Then, unscrew them. Please ensure that when you put them back on, they return in the same order.
Thank you for the helpful advice, a follow up question please, how do I open the actuator ports as your video indicates they should be in the open setting@@MultipipeLtd
You make it look very easy but I don't think it is as simple
Great vidoe thanks, I have 8 zones working great but one zone no heat in one room, stone cold! I removed actuator on the manifold, set the flow to max 5lt/min. The flow and return pipes are hot but the room remains cold. The room was being heated fine before just this last week it's gone cold. System is heatmiser 2 yrs old. Zone is furthest away from manifold and above the manifold. I suspect there's are restricting the full flow of heated water around the circuit.
If both your flow and return is warm (a UFH system should never be hot!) then you have got the flow there as it is pushing the water around the circuit. (always check the temperature from the lowest point of the pipe). Its one of two things 1. the flow and heat is fine but just not had enough time for it to recharge the slab (normally takes 3-4 hours) then a further 1 hour to heat the room.(depending on thickness of floors.)2. something had failed in the construction of the system meaning it no longer has good transference of heat to the room. Have you changed floor coverings etc. recently?
This was so helpful. Really easy to understand the principle and process.. I can't fill using a hosepipe thiugh as the circuit is on the second floor. Is it possible to fill another way?
glad you liked the video, the water has to be pumped in without air so you can get a simple pumped filling station (normally used in solar applications). You can then also add inhibitor/biocides etc into the tank making system dosing easier.
finally. someone using stainless steel fittings with a stainless steel manifold. gotta try to keep it all ss to get the benefits of ss.
nice
Thanks for the video. Super helpful! I see that you keep all four bottom ports open. When you fill the first loop, what keeps the water from going back into loop 2, 3, and 4? Is there a check valve inside the manifold?
Glad you liked the video. Because we shut all flowmeters at the top and opened the bottom drain point. Water would always take the path of least resistance. So, it would always flow out of the drain over back flowing through the loop.
Good point. In my opinion it would be better to open the bottom ports one by one, corresponding the flow meters on top.
Hi, great video. Was wondering if you have done a video for putting inhibitor into a UFH system? Not found anything on this elsewhere. Was thinking you pump it in using a pressure pump? Thanks.
Damon, thanks for your message, you tend to add inhibitors through a radiator or even the fill loop using a pressure pump as you mentioned. you can try and do it when not under pressure but it is more difficult.
Thanks couldn't figure out why mine wasn't running very good,but realised I was flushing it through from the return pipe.
Done as your video and works perfect.
Any info on what the pump should be set at would be good.
It's a grundfos upm3..k.
Thanks mark.🤔🤔🤔
Glad the video helped, as for your pump it all comes down to the total flowrate required from your system and over coming the amount of pressure to push the water around the highest resistance circuit. The UPM3 pump is not normally used as this cannot be adjusted externally, it might be UPM3 Auto, Auto L or Hybrid if one of them start on the proportional curve setting 2 balance your system to the design flowrates if you cannot get the flowrates when all loops are open then switch to setting 3. I hope that helps.
Great video. Any suggestion as to why my 3 loop system will only get flow to just one loop? As long as just one loop is opened, there will be flow. It is not a specific loop that works but any loop as long as the other two are closed. If I open the other loops all flow goes back to 0 flow and no longer transfers water through the system. Thank you
Thanks for your kind comment, this can be several factors. 1. the pump on your manifold is not been selected on the right setting/has not been properly bled of air. Or if it is an older system the pump is failing and is providing a weak flow. I would suggest getting your local plumber a call or contact us for more help.
Hi thanks for the video, extremely helpful, may I ask a question is that the flow meter should be remained closed after the filling?
No, you need to ensure before you remove the old version, you need to make a note of the flowrate set. Then ensure this is replicated on the new version/ use your commissioning sheets you usually get from the installer/ supplier of your system.
Hi. I have a system with the isolation valves on the top and the flow meters on the bottom. Which way to I fill and vent through? Thanks for the great video
It is hard to say but normally, whichever bar is at the top is where you put the fill pipe on and drain from the bottom. But a good way to check is with the pump. There should be an arrow on the body, which shows the flow direction, and this should point to which way the water flows across the manifold and down the loops, just follow this.
Hi, thanks for posting this useful video. I’m totally new to UFH and the house I’ve moved into has it installed. One of the zones for some reason isn’t getting as hot as it should, and the flow gauge is always low on it. Is it likely it needs flushing and release any trapped air?
Thanks
Thanks for your comment, air in the system does not normally show as a low flowrate this problem tends to either be an unbalanced system or the loop installed is too large for the system. In both cases, I recommend getting a plumber out to rebalance the system, have a word with the manufacturer of your system for the specific flowrates for your house. One small thing you can try is removing the “actuator” that sits on the lower part of the manifold for that loop. Once done press the pin up and down a few times and see if it is not just a stuck pin (then replace the actuator back on).
I hope that helps.
@@MultipipeLtd 6
One more question you mentioned in the video that different flooring should have different temperature setting? What’s for wood flooring? Thanks
You are correct. Most wood floorings have to be protected from a floor surface temperature no higher than 27°C (this is also the same case with some vinyl floors).
Great video and very helpful. Just to clarify with teh electric actuators, do I pop the plastic connect part off and then pull up each actuator pin with pliers to open each loop for bleeding? cheers
gerard
Best to have all actuators off (remember to number them in which order they are before removing them). You should not need to pull the pin up as they are sprung loaded.
Bloody great content, makes way more sense now. The manifold I'm working on has the flow meters on the bottom and actuator ports on the top. Would I still send water through the flow and out the actuators even though flow meters are below? Cheers!
This is a bit more of a tricky one. Because it could be just the bars are flipped, or the flow meter is actually not a "flow" meter and registers the return water flow instead. The best thing to do is look at where the pump is pumping. Whichever manifold bar it pumps to first is your flow, and you want to push the water from that bar and out the other. I hope that makes sense.
@@MultipipeLtd thanks for the reply, yep makes sense. Another question, What would be the best way to purge air out if it has gotten into the lines prior to the manifold. (main flow/return)
@@thanktheknife that's a bit more difficult as it all comes down to the system itself. But, this should naturally work to the highest point of your system (normally first floor radiators) where you bleed it out with the bleed key.
Hi thanks for this video its really helpful. I have just moved into a 3 story house that was built in 2006. It has underfloor heating on every floor and the top floor it seems doesn't work, i get no heating at all, i have checked the cupboard with the manifolds in after watching this video each of the glass flow valves have brown water in and showing no flow (apart from a few rooms very slow) I think the system needs flushing and an anti bacterial inhibitor put into it. Will i need a pump and a large bucket of water for this? as we are on the third floor i can't really run a hosepipe up. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
We would recommend you get a plumber in to do a full flush of the entire system and refill with treated water (chemical inhibitors might not work). I would say an entire floor failure would be either a pump or zone valve failure. Both which a plumber can check and replace.
I hope this helps.
@@MultipipeLtd thankyou! That has been a great help, plumber coming next week thanks again
Hi you are a genius! Love the video.
Q: my underfloor heating is around 2 years old. It's 25 square metres of pipe in 3 areas so 3 way system. The flow side of the room gets very nice and hot the return is lukewarm... Could this be an air bubble lock in the system like your video? Any advice you have would be greatly. I don't know the installer otherwise would have checked with time. Appreciate your time ☺️
Glad you like the video. This sounds to me like a lack of flow, have a looked at your manifold and look at the flowmeters when the system is running you want to be having around 2l/m on there the higher the lower the drop over the room but be careful you do not starve the other loops.
Thanks for this well informed video. Can i check if you turn off the water pump when doing this or does it need to be running? Cheers
When filling the manifold the pump need to be off as this could damage it. Only during commissioning of the manifold it has to be connected to the heat source and the pump must be on.
Thanks for good video, I have questions how do you balance the circuit or each loop and what about the radiators on first floor, do you start with the radiators and then ufh or it doesn't matter, thank you for advice
depending on if you have a pump for the UFH (pictured in the video) then I would recommend balancing your rads based on fully open on the index circuit and throttle the rest. Then the UFH you would do separate, as the pressure drop to the manifold is tiny because of the secondary pump, if you have no secondary pump I recommend fitting a double regulating valve to throttle the UFH manifold as well. We will be releasing a new video soon on commissioning so watch this space. thanks for watching!
@@MultipipeLtd thanks
Hi I’ve watched this video and it seems straight forward but Iv watched an uponor one where the actuator valves were closed with decorator caps, I prefer the way in this video is there much difference the other way ?
sorry for our delay in replying, no, both method isolate the manifold. So use which on is easier for you. thanks for watching!
Hi. Thanks for the video. We get a slight whistling when our single zone UH kicks in. The only other zone from our combi boiler is the central heating radiators. Any idea what may be causing the whistling ? It's quite annoying during the night. Thanks again.
it is probably to do with too much primary side pressure from the boiler pump. you may have to fit a auto bypass valve to reduce the pressure against the valve. I hope that helps.
Thank you very good video. I also have a UFH 4 zones. Can you control the amount of heating you want in each zone by reducing the flow in the Circuits for each zone?
Unfortunately no, you need to invest in a wireless multizone control system this will then control your pin on the lower manifold and give you control on your system. Please call us on 01245227630 to discuss your best options
Great video. What might be the reason for flow to not go above 1.5 Liter per min to one of the loops ? Other smaller loops goes to 2 Liter max but Loop 1 doesnt reach this level.
The main reason you get different flow rates on certain loops is that the larger the loop, the higher the pressure drop; usually, the flow rate you can get will drop. Operating the pump at a higher speed should raise the flow rate.
Thank you. I will check it. There is a electronic heat meter where the motor supposed to be. @@MultipipeLtd
Hi. During this procedure the pump is turned on or off? Thank you!
you need to always ensure the pump is turned off to avoid damage.
Thank you for the useful information.
BTW, how do you manage to fill the remainder of the circuit (From boiler to manifold) ? It looks tricky as you can dump air into the manifold while doing so.
Many thanks for your question. I would always suggest when filling the remainder of the manifold to vent from the bar of the manifold (and pump) you should have a manual air vent on the flow and return, make sure the circulator pump is off when doing this that will then ensure no air enters the loops.
@@MultipipeLtd I guess doing this while all loops are closed on both sides will do the trick. Thank you.
I know Im asking randomly but does anyone know a way to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid forgot my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Orlando Augustine instablaster ;)
@Cayden Ariel I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Hi Igor!
When i open went with a little key with water presure have a leaking water from a little 2 holes in vent.
Wrong went?
Btw video is awesome.
Hello, it sounds like you are opening the air vent (normally located at the top on the manifold bar). You need to look for the square key on the full valve itself
Hi. My system has flow meters at bottom and actuator on the top,so it is oposite than yours. Should I bring water also where are flow meters on the bottom or should I bring from the top. Hope you understand the question
Some manifolds are setup this way (not many though) but the basic principle of the flow manifold is at the top and the bottom is the return still stands. So still flush this way around. But also double check that the manifold is not just plumbed the wrong way. i.e. flow manifold has been put accidentally on the bottom. You can tell this by the flowmeter as it would not show a flow on your system (as they are pushing the wrong way). It can also stop the system working.
Hi I have a single boiler driving C.H., UFH and hot water storage tank ( with seperate pump for each. Is it ok to introduce an inhibitor to the whole system and would the inhibitor be corossive in the UFH ??
All main brand inhibitors would not have any adverse reactions to any parts of the system and we encourage they are added to prevent issues in the future. As you have a UFH system it is also worth looking at adding a biocide to stop bacterial growth that can cause premature seal failures.
Hi my system of continental underfloor heating is 10 years old, should the system be flushed with fresh water? Thanks
Providing the system was filled with an inhibitor and biocide and is regularly checked as part of your service then no. The same water can remain in the system. If however, you have brown or black water showing in the meters at the top of the manifold then a flushing and reuse of a biocide might be a good idea.
Hi Martin
If you have the electric operated valves on the lower manifold how do you open to do a flush?
I’m guessing they’re closed if the thermostat is not calling?
it is best to mark them up (left to right) then remove them. as you are correct they close the valve.
@@MultipipeLtd thank you 👍
how do we go about this process if there is electric actuators ? would it be enough if i were to start the heating, let the electric actuators open fully and then do this process.
The best thing to do is mark the actuators with the position they are. Then remove them completely. This ensures the valve is wide open. then put them back on in the order written on them.
I read that with a heat pump (rather than a furnace ) flow per room should be 1 litre per minute. It seems low ! Any thoughts ?
that sounds more like a minimum flow rate requirement per loop? As it does seem a bit low. Some heat pump manufactures use the thermal mass of a UFH system as a bit like a thermal store. So by not fitting actuators and allowing free flow though, the energy is stored in the screed.
It was the best video so far on RUclips hon how to fill and vent the manifold. Thank you very much!
One question what could be the reason that in the second winter a system with 2 manifolds like this with 0 floor and first floor failed to reach at the temperature. More exactly both are struggling to reach somewhere at 30-32 deg.
Celsius and they both stay there forever....
glad you like the video, I would say if a system reached a temperature in the first year but not the second could have multipipe factors mainly around the heat emitter. email us at technical@multipipe.co.uk and we will send you some information over.
@@MultipipeLtd - thank you for your tips / tricks it was the "Y" filter of the return of circuit in the gas heating system.
You have only one control for all those branches so it essentially a one thermostat one zone system. I have 7 thermostates / pumps. If I put the boiler a long way away that would make for 30 ft boiler to manifold then 30 feet back. Isn’t that too long of a secondary with 60 feet of 1 inch pex heat loss in the pipes
The manifold in the video is purely for demonstration purposes. It is common to have thermostats splitting multiple zones in a UFH system. In terms of distance and "heat loss", yes, you lose kW energy from the boiler to the UFH system, but as long as the pipe is within the building fabric (i.e. in the heated space), this with will contribute to the heating of the dwelling, albeit uncontrolled. Outside the building fabric, i.e. a loft space, this should be insulated as well as possible. I hope this helps.
Can you apply these principles to Nu-Heat underfloor manifolds?
Tony, many thanks for your message there is no reason why not. All manifolds are made to a similar construction, the only difference is how you isolate each loop as this might be different.
@@MultipipeLtd Thank you. As per your advice, I didn't adjust the flow gauges as this might ruin the balance. Do the actuators hold the pin valve down in order to make the water flow through the pipes? Also I've read that removing the actuators allows the hot water to run through the pipes unrestricted? Is that right?
@@tonypowell250 - That is fine, the actuator will give enough loop resistance when off to stop flow so that you can fill one loop at a time.
How would you open automatic actuators?
Many thanks for your email, you normally have a wiring centre located above the manifold with the actuator working with the thermostats for individual room control. I hope that helps.
How do you balance the system or check use the flow valves?
When we do the drawing for the project, we provide the balancing flowrates based on thermal output required and running temperature of the system (amongst other things)
@@MultipipeLtd so this is not a straight forward thing one can do themselves?
@@tahirahmed3747unfortunately not, there are too many variables and factors to make a simple calc for this. you could use something simple to start like 1l/m for coils up to 75m 2l/m for up to 100m and fully open for up to 120m.
If you were to swap out the manifold for one with electric actuators... can anyone suggest a brand or product please ?
depending where you are will come down to who is best to supply. We are a UK based supplier for floor heating systems and could help you out if you are in UK or Europe. just call us on 01245 227630.
Hello mate. I don't have any return heating coming back to the boiler. Any suggestions?
If the system has worked before this normally indicated a failure of the UFH pump or a blockage in the system. I hope this helps.
@@MultipipeLtd Thanks dude 😊
What stops the water from going through the pump and straight out into the bucket instead of through the loops?
the 4 way mixer cannot allow water through whilst cold. I hope this helps.
@@MultipipeLtd that makes perfect sense. Thank you 👍
@@MultipipeLtd I asked as I have just installed my ufh, single zone manifold and pipes (nuheat). And I’ve been struggling with air and locating a small leak. If I disconnect my return pipe from the manifold and connect mains water to the feed valve, I still get water come out of the manifold return hose point. Which tells me it’s getting by the pump and thermo mixer. Any ideas?
@@waynepassant5076 Wayne, sorry for the delay, I know from past experience, not all mixing valves shut right down. But you are probably right is letting by through the valve best chance for it to shut is to remember the set dial setting then move it to min or closed hopefully it pushes it more into the seat.. if you can get a flow rate through the flow meter when filling. Then you will be able to push the water through the loop.
@@MultipipeLtd no worries at all.
It does fill the loop aswell. All is well on the system now
What am I doing wrong? The water goes directly through the pump no matter what circuit is open or closed.
our units come with a non-return valve to stop it bypassing through the pump. if there is no means of isolation on the manifold that does make it difficult to do a fill procedure. I suggest getting isolation valves fitted between the pump and manifold unit.
i would be so happy if you can solve my problem, i'm "fighting" with this system 2 years. The workers come, take the money and solve nothing :(
we can help with small issues but we are working on a new help service for even systems not purchased from us. email us at technical@multipipe.co.uk your issue and we will see what we can do.
What about inhibitor?
Inhibitors are normally added when the boiler is commissioned, not usually when the UFH is commissioned. But to help with this, our calcs tell you the system water volume of the UFH system so you can get the correct dosing. However, we are now moving to the VDI 2035 standard. Although not recognised by the boiler manufacturers, it is a chemical-free way of treating the water and massively helps UFH as you don't get bacteria build-up from running low temperatures. Watch out for new videos on this subject.
Feel free to leave any unanswered questions in the comments below!