Researched the rimming together with my mother, father, brother, wife and daughter - made a whole power point presentation about it, going through all the steps; making sure they circle the base with just enough pressure. After that we practiced together. We are now experts.
Love when you broadcast your mistakes because your artistry in painting is super astounding and inspirational so thank you for reminding us even our painting idols make mistakes
Imagine doing sub assembly to recreate box art and not because your hands shake while painting, so you sub assemble so you make smaller mistakes on a smaller area while painting.
As alsways, I very much enjoy your self-sarcasm. It renders the video enjoyable and also brings some "veracity". Too much time, I see videos were everything seems flawless and easy. I get the fact that the more proeficient a painter is, the less mistakes he can do, but insisting on the time passed on one single model and not being ashamed to explain that it's difficult is something that I always value. Excellent result anyway
This video is the state of art. The amount of detail and information with the usual Zumikito style of presenting the topics makes is a masterpiece. Love how all useful techniques are covered. Great job! All the tips are fabulous, including the rimming one!
I don’t comment much on videos but this deserves a shoutout. Every time I watch one of his videos I learn something new. Highly informative, entertaining and well done! Keep up the good work!
3:00 It won't take long if you just paint everything first then go back and fix your mistakes. Fixing your mistakes as you make them is a mega smallbrain move. Also, use AK interactive intense white.
I've mixed Retributor Armour with Vallejo metal colour gold for a while now. Not because one is too thick or thin, but Vallejo is a very cold gold, and GW's is a very warm gold. I personally prefer a more neutral gold where I can adjust with inks/contrast paints as needed. Mixing them is a great base. Perhaps the consistency is better too but I never realized it!
Excellent model you should be very proud. Particularly helpful content in regards to painting the glass on the canister at 15:40 Thanks for the great video as always
i've never seen someone who does shading before a base color! This is the opposite of what I've see everyone else do. This is so helpful. If I ever get his talented I'll be sure to try this method
Gonna look up this "Rimming" thing asap, I've totally missed it. I'm sure I'll find some useful tips that will make my army look better after I google it.
When i got into Warhammer i started out with the White Tau Viorla scheme and i learned pretty quickly that clean up white takes more time then everything else so i understand your pain. Stil worth it i love my Viorla Boys.
As a new hobbyist , My Rimming game was really poor, thanks to your advice, i'm now quite good at Rimming! Love to rim my Orruks so much! will post result soon
Great video! Thanks! Question: Ok, so you have the box art and import the picture to photshop. When you sample a color from the photo with the eyedropper (3:30), you then eyeball it to choose a matching paint color, or is there another tech secret to getting a better color match?!
I find it funny that apothecaries can use tweezers while wearing power armor glove. The way you paint white is just amazing, I love Sons of the Phoenix so this recipe is perfect, thank you!
I jsut got out of hospital after a month due to infected lungs and my hands has been shaking ever since, I miss my hobby of painting warhammer figurines. Got any tips to help my hands shake less when I try to paint precisely?
I myself suffer from shaking hands and using a paint handle really helps me. Also, I often put both my elbows on the desk when painting precise details like eyes.
The best I have on this is look for a video by Jose David on edge highlighting. He goes through hand techniques, self bracing and brush form. It's fun to see how even a Golden Demon winner will get very iffy details when painting in the air, and how changes in hand positions, bracing the wrists, and prepping the paint for small detail changes his accuracy so much. He doesn't have Zumikito's good english though, so instead you get an Andalusian accent, while the English comes with subtitiles.
When it comes to metal color from vallejo, the best way of working with them is leaving them on a normal palette for about 30-45 seconds, and it works great.
I painted this model a couple of weeks ago and largely followed the same steps you did. My marines are Imperial Fists, and rather than orange, I use Rakarth Flesh for chest eagles, and 'Festering Blue' (an old GW paint from when I started in 1996, still available from Coat d'Arms) for the fabric. Painting white is a challenge, exactly like you said in this video... any small mistakes (eg black behind the knees, etc) means a lot of wated time repairing the error. Also, getting a visible highlight is a challenge too. With highlighting in mind, I used Vallejo's Model Colour 004 'Off White'... which is an ever-so-slightly creamy white. My one and only criticism for your model is an error I see even on verteran painters such as the Eavy Metal team. When highlighting reds... don't use 'orange'. Take a look at a red car, or a fire extinguisher and you don't see orange. It all comes down to colour theory, and if you open up MS Paint, or graphics software, and look at the slider to darken or brighten that colour... you'll see it darkens to black, and lightens to white. Here's the magic sentence... You're not changing the 'colour'... you're changing the 'light intensity'. If you add a pale neutral grey (made only from black and white) to the red paint, it will 'desaturate' the colour becoming a pinkish hue while still remaining a shade of red. Give it a try and see what you think!
Perhaps it wasn't meant that way, but your comment seems to be lecturing me on stuff I already know and it seems just rude to leave a criticism like that, especially since I mentioned I was copying the Eavy Metal paintjob, I wasn't trying to paint "correctly"
@@Zumikito My apologies... I was giving you something to consider, rather than abject criticism. This was the first video I'd seen of yours, and I watched another four after (and subscribed). The Eavy Metal team do the same thing, highlighting reds with orange, especially on their Eldar Sam Hann themes box art. The difficulty I see with 40k/Sigmar painters, is GW guides you down a "This is how you paint ourmodels... and if you don't follow our way, you're doing it wrong!" trail, and people blindly follow the crowd singing the same song. Once more I'm sorry I gave you the wrong perception... I truly meant no harm. I hope you'll forgive me for that?
Ye, I agree with you. Eavy Metal style is a very stylized approach to painting so it looks good on boxes, magazines etc. and it doesn't necessarily reflect credible results - it's a good exercise, but probably not something to see as a golden standard of painting (which some people do consider though). No worries, I do realize you meant no harm.
@@Zumikito I have three modelling hobbies... model railways, 40k and model aircraft, and I've found all of them are rather 'insular' hobbies... with "This is what tools, paints and materials you use. With model railways, there is no highlighting, and enamel paints are still the standard issue! The trains are highly detailed, but the people for the trains are always dreadfully painted, with flat skin and clothing, with no shading or highlighting at all! But the scenery is excellent! Aircraft modelling taught me colour theory. But with aircraft... it's not like railways or wargaming, where you 'play' with the models. Aircraft are something to buld and paint before going on a shelf and moving to the next model. GW modelling is an interesting thing. I enjoy the modelling and painting, and then get to play with my models... but as I said, GW is an insular hobby with a theme of "You do it OUR way, or you're not doing it right!" In terms of the models, the troops are brilliant, but when it comes to vehicles, they are really basic kits. If I were to buy a Rhino, or a Valkyrie, it has 1mm panel lines. The Rhino is roughly 1/55th scale (Primaris marines are about 1/65th)... so there's that inconsistancy... ...but unlike model railways where there are four Class 37's to choose from, or aircraft modelling where there's a dozen F-16 manufacturers, each competing with each other for realism... so an F-16 could have a 0.25mm crack for a panel line and tiny parts in cockpits, etc. But because GW has no rival competition providing another Rhino with better detail and thin panel lines... they still pump out vehicles with chunky details and panel lines the scale equivalent of a 55mm chasm! It's the one thing I think GW could do with improving with their models. And it's not as if they can't do it. Look at the panel lines on the back of your space marine's legs. Even old models like the Scouts Marine Scouts... you can see the curvature of their eyeballs!! If they can produce that, Sorry for the big rant. I do that sometimes. One of the best thing about modelling, is how social a community it can be... especially forums, Discord/Instagram, and youtube. I enjoy seeing a channel like yours which offers new ideas and challenge modellers/painter to push the boundries and become better modellers/painters. So keep doing what you're doing!! :^)
I'm new to this hand painting stuff. Citadel paints seem crazy expensive (and small). And Vallejo paints are kinda hard to get here so I need to import it. But we have Tamiya and Mr Hobby Aqueous acrylic paints in abundance. Have you tried those on minis and what do you think about them?
Very good video as always!!! A few of the techniques you showed on here I’ve been learning and working on from other videos you have made. But it’s always good to get a refresher. And YES! Painting white sucks!!! And fixing white is a nightmare. I know all about it. My Space Marines are SOTP! I love how most of them look. But sometimes I wish I just did Blood Angels or the OG of my army! Anyways, thanks again and I can’t wait to see the next one!!!
Hey Zumikito, what do you typically do with 'connector' parts, that aren't a part of the model but are just there for mould purposes? For instance, if a character has a skirt, usually the bottom will have an 'edge' of the skirt, but then the middle will be filled-in. I always debate whether to paint the 'filling' black or the same color as the surrounding piece, but it gets even more difficult when the 'filler' piece is connected to several different color parts!
That is a good question - about 4-5 days, but like 6-9 hours a day. I know that is a big range, but can't tell, since I need some breaks here and there
@@Zumikito that's how I work my metal. I use to dilute them with airbrush thinner and work it as successive glazes and I build it with intermediate washes. It gives results I'm happy with and take way less time than nmm but it is for table top.
Fantastic video as always! I wish you also had a website or something to track your preferred paints for various situations. Like what specific brands/paints you prefer for metallics, including highlight and shading; or what brand/paint you use for white edge highlighting, etc. Super useful stuff in the video, but it could be a year from now when I’m wanting to rediscover what paint to use for white or metallics, but it would be hard to find which video and what part it’s covered in. Or if you’ve found a better solution since the video.
Thank you! I was trying to set up a website for a little bit in the past, but I can't seem to prioritize it at any given time. However, I really hope that I am able to set it up properly this year!
Want an easier time with black paint on white... use matte black enamels my friend. You can easily clean off any mistakes you make and the paint is both thin and has a high coverage and unlike other colours you don't need to stress on colour matching.
I'm so jealous of your Sons of the Phoenix Army. I'm not at a skill level where I'd be happy with the end result tho, so I went with the OTHER loyalist traitor army, Blood Ravens lmao
Y'know what? I always plan to paint every gaming mini to "display" standards (for me anyway, that's probably a good bit lower level than a lot of you youtube peeps are capable of), but then i pick one leader/Character and paint them the whole way through the process and try to identify various good stopping points. Once i have a scheme and 2 or 3 stopping points nailed down i move on to the rest of the army/gang/unit/party and paint the whole thing up to the first stopping point and boom, table ready. then i'll take any unit leaders or characters or just outright cool models i want to spend more time on and take them up one or two stopping points, so on and so forth.......... This way every model is painted the same exact way and all i have to do if i want to take one up a few notches is add those couple extra steps to get to the next "stopping point", because it's literally all the same scheme and steps, i just chose not to do some of the final time consuming ones on the bulk of the models. Though i find this really only works if you keep some form of painting journal, cause if a set of mini's you've had "done" for years just starts calling to you for more painting and you can't remember what you did its start over time (ask me how i know) 🤣🤣
I have a question if anyone wants to answer it. For standard necron guns should you paint the cylinder piece completely green or black with green in the center? Also great video glad you didn't make any huge mistakes.
It's kind of annoying that this is an "apothecary" but doesn't function like one at all, in any way. It might in the future, but rules-wise right now it's just a buff character, so I'm thinking I'll paint mine in my army colors and add light or baby blue (complimentary to my scheme) stripes or some other sort of signifier to distinguish it as a 'science' character instead.
Man, every time I open a box of minis I always get into an argument with myself on whether I'm copying the box art or doing my own, even though I know trying to decide on a color scheme would just take me forever. I never regret the decision to just copy cause that's always a fun time, but not as fun as edging though lol.
Researched the rimming together with my mother, father, brother, wife and daughter - made a whole power point presentation about it, going through all the steps; making sure they circle the base with just enough pressure. After that we practiced together. We are now experts.
The best home videos are the ones where the family gets together to rim a whole lot of models. Grandpa is a bit sloppy but he still has fun!
😂😂😂
@@forposterity4031 - Models? Nobody said anything about models...
Yeah circle the base... 😂 I can't tell whether u are messing around or really are talking about painting 🖌️🎨
@@LessLeeAB When he realizes he told the internet he rimmed his mom, dad, wife, and kids 🤔🤫
Thank you for the tip on the base rims! I googled it with my wife and she's not going to let me have unpainted rims ever again!
i hope she will help with the rimjobs. >.>
Thought this was going to be a rimjob joke
Love when you broadcast your mistakes because your artistry in painting is super astounding and inspirational so thank you for reminding us even our painting idols make mistakes
16:36 Mischief managed... 😂
“Subassemblies” had me like no no no no no wait wait wait wait
I've learned a lot of new information about "rimming", that I didn't know beforhand. Cheers @Zumikito!
It's even better after a long session of edging!
Imagine doing sub assembly to recreate box art and not because your hands shake while painting, so you sub assemble so you make smaller mistakes on a smaller area while painting.
I honestly never thought of that. I usually hate sub-assemblies but my shakes are getting worse
I just naturally have the shakes so sub assembly with the models push fitting should at least be more common
As alsways, I very much enjoy your self-sarcasm. It renders the video enjoyable and also brings some "veracity".
Too much time, I see videos were everything seems flawless and easy. I get the fact that the more proeficient a painter is, the less mistakes he can do, but insisting on the time passed on one single model and not being ashamed to explain that it's difficult is something that I always value. Excellent result anyway
That smirk, rimming, do it 😂
This video is the state of art. The amount of detail and information with the usual Zumikito style of presenting the topics makes is a masterpiece. Love how all useful techniques are covered. Great job! All the tips are fabulous, including the rimming one!
I don’t comment much on videos but this deserves a shoutout. Every time I watch one of his videos I learn something new. Highly informative, entertaining and well done! Keep up the good work!
Outstanding paint job as usual Zumi! Thanks for the rimming advice, gonna research it with some friends and family now.
Seriously, you are the number 1 RUclips painter for explaining these processes!
3:00 It won't take long if you just paint everything first then go back and fix your mistakes. Fixing your mistakes as you make them is a mega smallbrain move.
Also, use AK interactive intense white.
😂😂😂 my man zumikito channeling palapatine " DO IT". Absolutely love your work and sense of humor buddy. Great job 👏
I've mixed Retributor Armour with Vallejo metal colour gold for a while now. Not because one is too thick or thin, but Vallejo is a very cold gold, and GW's is a very warm gold. I personally prefer a more neutral gold where I can adjust with inks/contrast paints as needed. Mixing them is a great base. Perhaps the consistency is better too but I never realized it!
You make the best painting videos. I am color blind and this video was a big help regarding the lenses .
Excellent model you should be very proud.
Particularly helpful content in regards to painting the glass on the canister at 15:40
Thanks for the great video as always
i've never seen someone who does shading before a base color! This is the opposite of what I've see everyone else do. This is so helpful. If I ever get his talented I'll be sure to try this method
Dude, your videos have to be the most informative and funny painting videos out there.
Awesome content.!!!
Gonna look up this "Rimming" thing asap, I've totally missed it. I'm sure I'll find some useful tips that will make my army look better after I google it.
The technique can also be used to get the last drops out of the paint pot. Very helpful 👍
Wonderful video thank you
Zumikito : painting white is painful
Also Zumikito : 16:29
When i got into Warhammer i started out with the White Tau Viorla scheme and i learned pretty quickly that clean up white takes more time then everything else so i understand your pain. Stil worth it i love my Viorla Boys.
As a new hobbyist , My Rimming game was really poor, thanks to your advice, i'm now quite good at Rimming!
Love to rim my Orruks so much! will post result soon
Paynes grey is the blueish grey paint I use for a lot of shading, including as a light glaze for whites.
This is exactly why I love push fit. So much easier to do sub assembly. Usually just leaving off a part or two is all you need.
I like to use the box art as a color guide more than anything. I'm not a huge fan of the eavy metal style and I'm very much a beginner as well
Ahhh thanks Zumikito! Going to grab that AK interactive White to edge highlight now! Thank you!
Great video! Thanks!
Question: Ok, so you have the box art and import the picture to photshop. When you sample a color from the photo with the eyedropper (3:30), you then eyeball it to choose a matching paint color, or is there another tech secret to getting a better color match?!
I find it funny that apothecaries can use tweezers while wearing power armor glove. The way you paint white is just amazing, I love Sons of the Phoenix so this recipe is perfect, thank you!
The recommendation for Googling rimming nearly killed me. I love your work mate. 😂😂😂
haha, days of painting a single gaming miniature. I love it.
Awesome video, learned a lot. Getting back into wargaming and really appreciate the walkthrough and tips!
I just realised a paint swatch set for photoshop that covered each of the main brands of paint that get used would be absolutely amazing.
Loved the video, looking forward to the next one!
I jsut got out of hospital after a month due to infected lungs and my hands has been shaking ever since, I miss my hobby of painting warhammer figurines. Got any tips to help my hands shake less when I try to paint precisely?
I myself suffer from shaking hands and using a paint handle really helps me. Also, I often put both my elbows on the desk when painting precise details like eyes.
The best I have on this is look for a video by Jose David on edge highlighting. He goes through hand techniques, self bracing and brush form. It's fun to see how even a Golden Demon winner will get very iffy details when painting in the air, and how changes in hand positions, bracing the wrists, and prepping the paint for small detail changes his accuracy so much. He doesn't have Zumikito's good english though, so instead you get an Andalusian accent, while the English comes with subtitiles.
Nice video! Painting a white apothecary is no easy task and your final result looks stellar. Thank you for your efforts in sharing the process.
That gold color recipe is my goto. I would highly recommend.
Very nice work and you are right about AK paints, they are great!
I agree, black is the best base coat for metallic
I found this video very entertaining and informative, thanks for trying your best to make this funny and fun 😊
You make it sound so easy and fun.. I love it 😅
Add gloss medium when panel lining / recess shading, makes a heap of difference
Or use oil paints
It would be so cool to see gws eavy metal on the tabletop, just a whole army of the most detailed models would be awesome
Oil washes my friend ,and zero problem with bad over paint on white !
I give 10 of 10 Sniffs to this video.
Marvelous video as always my friend!
In the shading step could I gloss varnish the model and use oil wash? That would then be easier to tidy up and flow into the recesses better.
When it comes to metal color from vallejo, the best way of working with them is leaving them on a normal palette for about 30-45 seconds, and it works great.
I painted this model a couple of weeks ago and largely followed the same steps you did.
My marines are Imperial Fists, and rather than orange, I use Rakarth Flesh for chest eagles, and 'Festering Blue' (an old GW paint from when I started in 1996, still available from Coat d'Arms) for the fabric.
Painting white is a challenge, exactly like you said in this video... any small mistakes (eg black behind the knees, etc) means a lot of wated time repairing the error.
Also, getting a visible highlight is a challenge too.
With highlighting in mind, I used Vallejo's Model Colour 004 'Off White'... which is an ever-so-slightly creamy white.
My one and only criticism for your model is an error I see even on verteran painters such as the Eavy Metal team.
When highlighting reds... don't use 'orange'.
Take a look at a red car, or a fire extinguisher and you don't see orange.
It all comes down to colour theory, and if you open up MS Paint, or graphics software, and look at the slider to darken or brighten that colour... you'll see it darkens to black, and lightens to white.
Here's the magic sentence... You're not changing the 'colour'... you're changing the 'light intensity'.
If you add a pale neutral grey (made only from black and white) to the red paint, it will 'desaturate' the colour becoming a pinkish hue while still remaining a shade of red.
Give it a try and see what you think!
Perhaps it wasn't meant that way, but your comment seems to be lecturing me on stuff I already know and it seems just rude to leave a criticism like that, especially since I mentioned I was copying the Eavy Metal paintjob, I wasn't trying to paint "correctly"
@@Zumikito My apologies... I was giving you something to consider, rather than abject criticism.
This was the first video I'd seen of yours, and I watched another four after (and subscribed).
The Eavy Metal team do the same thing, highlighting reds with orange, especially on their Eldar Sam Hann themes box art.
The difficulty I see with 40k/Sigmar painters, is GW guides you down a "This is how you paint ourmodels... and if you don't follow our way, you're doing it wrong!" trail, and people blindly follow the crowd singing the same song.
Once more I'm sorry I gave you the wrong perception... I truly meant no harm.
I hope you'll forgive me for that?
Ye, I agree with you. Eavy Metal style is a very stylized approach to painting so it looks good on boxes, magazines etc. and it doesn't necessarily reflect credible results - it's a good exercise, but probably not something to see as a golden standard of painting (which some people do consider though).
No worries, I do realize you meant no harm.
@@Zumikito I have three modelling hobbies... model railways, 40k and model aircraft, and I've found all of them are rather 'insular' hobbies... with "This is what tools, paints and materials you use.
With model railways, there is no highlighting, and enamel paints are still the standard issue!
The trains are highly detailed, but the people for the trains are always dreadfully painted, with flat skin and clothing, with no shading or highlighting at all!
But the scenery is excellent!
Aircraft modelling taught me colour theory.
But with aircraft... it's not like railways or wargaming, where you 'play' with the models.
Aircraft are something to buld and paint before going on a shelf and moving to the next model.
GW modelling is an interesting thing.
I enjoy the modelling and painting, and then get to play with my models... but as I said, GW is an insular hobby with a theme of "You do it OUR way, or you're not doing it right!"
In terms of the models, the troops are brilliant, but when it comes to vehicles, they are really basic kits.
If I were to buy a Rhino, or a Valkyrie, it has 1mm panel lines.
The Rhino is roughly 1/55th scale (Primaris marines are about 1/65th)... so there's that inconsistancy...
...but unlike model railways where there are four Class 37's to choose from, or aircraft modelling where there's a dozen F-16 manufacturers, each competing with each other for realism... so an F-16 could have a 0.25mm crack for a panel line and tiny parts in cockpits, etc.
But because GW has no rival competition providing another Rhino with better detail and thin panel lines... they still pump out vehicles with chunky details and panel lines the scale equivalent of a 55mm chasm!
It's the one thing I think GW could do with improving with their models.
And it's not as if they can't do it.
Look at the panel lines on the back of your space marine's legs.
Even old models like the Scouts Marine Scouts... you can see the curvature of their eyeballs!!
If they can produce that,
Sorry for the big rant.
I do that sometimes.
One of the best thing about modelling, is how social a community it can be... especially forums, Discord/Instagram, and youtube.
I enjoy seeing a channel like yours which offers new ideas and challenge modellers/painter to push the boundries and become better modellers/painters.
So keep doing what you're doing!! :^)
He looks great! Thanks for all the tips. And I laughed with you when you said to cover the entire miniature with a shade! 😂
So I need a better white. Citadel’s obviously suck. Was gonna go pro acryl. Maybe now I should go AK 3rd gen.
Outstanding video. Entertaining and great advice
Hi, you Name the brush you used for the details? So the Brand Name and brush model? Thanks
after putting the colour in software to get the color picker, what do you do next?
I'm new to this hand painting stuff. Citadel paints seem crazy expensive (and small). And Vallejo paints are kinda hard to get here so I need to import it. But we have Tamiya and Mr Hobby Aqueous acrylic paints in abundance. Have you tried those on minis and what do you think about them?
Dude, love this vid. Thanks for the tips, yo
Incredible, thanks a lot.
Excellent video!! Required viewing for anyone who wants to take their miniatures to the next level.
Came for the painting lesson, subscribed for the rimming, lol. 🤣
Yes, I also enjoy "edging" and "rimming" in my hobby.
Can you make a video on how to clean and generally treat our brasses?
looks amazing! may i ask what colours you used to paint the glass on the canister?
it's a combo of black, white and turquiose from AK interactive
@@Zumikito awesome! Thank you so much
I'm at work so will have to follow your advice and do that search the next time my boss is away from their desk....
Very good video as always!!! A few of the techniques you showed on here I’ve been learning and working on from other videos you have made. But it’s always good to get a refresher. And YES! Painting white sucks!!! And fixing white is a nightmare. I know all about it. My Space Marines are SOTP! I love how most of them look. But sometimes I wish I just did Blood Angels or the OG of my army! Anyways, thanks again and I can’t wait to see the next one!!!
I havent even glued them and they hold toghter well and how did you do the white
any airbrushes you recommend for someone who has never used one before?
I have spent hours searching for rimming videos. Can't seem to find any related to base painting techniques. Will try with multiple search engines.
Hey Zumikito, what do you typically do with 'connector' parts, that aren't a part of the model but are just there for mould purposes? For instance, if a character has a skirt, usually the bottom will have an 'edge' of the skirt, but then the middle will be filled-in. I always debate whether to paint the 'filling' black or the same color as the surrounding piece, but it gets even more difficult when the 'filler' piece is connected to several different color parts!
great work mate!
whats that brush you're using for the edge highlights? its like a razor!
Asking from curiosity - how long did it take to paint this one model?
That is a good question - about 4-5 days, but like 6-9 hours a day. I know that is a big range, but can't tell, since I need some breaks here and there
@@Zumikito 24-45 hours is quite the range, still even at lowest estimate it's crazy amount of work, thanks for sharing the recipe!
I learned a lot about rimming. Thank you. Off topic, did you only paint one layer of silver? I'm gonna try the same mix with the same colours.
yea, pretty much all of it was one layer - basecoat, shading with black and edges with almost pure steel
I disagree strongly on the white paint though, Pro-acrylic titanium white is extremely good. Thank you for the video
is this miniature only available in the leviathan box set or do they have a single miniature of this and if so what is it called?
how does that AK white compare to Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White?
Are you going to be adding the marines to your sons of the pheonix? What are your thoughts on designating the terminators as first company?
Professional as always. 👍
I missed your videos, so I am feeding the algorithm goods to summon your future videos
Hi dude. Why not use vallejo black metallic air instead of gunmetal + black ink ?
You can, but I haven't personally tested the coverage. Ink + air steel is also great if you eamna layer it and build volume like you would with NMM
@@Zumikito that's how I work my metal. I use to dilute them with airbrush thinner and work it as successive glazes and I build it with intermediate washes. It gives results I'm happy with and take way less time than nmm but it is for table top.
Fantastic video as always!
I wish you also had a website or something to track your preferred paints for various situations. Like what specific brands/paints you prefer for metallics, including highlight and shading; or what brand/paint you use for white edge highlighting, etc. Super useful stuff in the video, but it could be a year from now when I’m wanting to rediscover what paint to use for white or metallics, but it would be hard to find which video and what part it’s covered in. Or if you’ve found a better solution since the video.
Thank you! I was trying to set up a website for a little bit in the past, but I can't seem to prioritize it at any given time. However, I really hope that I am able to set it up properly this year!
@Zumikito do you do commission paint work ? I was wondering if you would paint some of my models
Have you tried scale color metal 'n' alchemy? This is more and more better. Best metalics ever
Want an easier time with black paint on white... use matte black enamels my friend. You can easily clean off any mistakes you make and the paint is both thin and has a high coverage and unlike other colours you don't need to stress on colour matching.
Oh, that seems like a neat tip to Goog... OH MY GOD!
I'm french and didn't know what rimming meant, now I know how to say anulingus in english and how to recreate a warhammer box art
What brushes do you use?
I'm so jealous of your Sons of the Phoenix Army. I'm not at a skill level where I'd be happy with the end result tho, so I went with the OTHER loyalist traitor army, Blood Ravens lmao
Y'know what? I always plan to paint every gaming mini to "display" standards (for me anyway, that's probably a good bit lower level than a lot of you youtube peeps are capable of), but then i pick one leader/Character and paint them the whole way through the process and try to identify various good stopping points. Once i have a scheme and 2 or 3 stopping points nailed down i move on to the rest of the army/gang/unit/party and paint the whole thing up to the first stopping point and boom, table ready. then i'll take any unit leaders or characters or just outright cool models i want to spend more time on and take them up one or two stopping points, so on and so forth.......... This way every model is painted the same exact way and all i have to do if i want to take one up a few notches is add those couple extra steps to get to the next "stopping point", because it's literally all the same scheme and steps, i just chose not to do some of the final time consuming ones on the bulk of the models. Though i find this really only works if you keep some form of painting journal, cause if a set of mini's you've had "done" for years just starts calling to you for more painting and you can't remember what you did its start over time (ask me how i know) 🤣🤣
Looks great...but white contrast is so much easier...and objectively looks better.
Painting Vashtorr 's wings assembled...a Nightmare!!
How come this specific model cant be found? I keep finding the old one.
I have a question if anyone wants to answer it. For standard necron guns should you paint the cylinder piece completely green or black with green in the center? Also great video glad you didn't make any huge mistakes.
Keep up the good work.
How do you match photoshop colors with paints irl? Whenever I pick paints online they are different in person.
It's kind of annoying that this is an "apothecary" but doesn't function like one at all, in any way. It might in the future, but rules-wise right now it's just a buff character, so I'm thinking I'll paint mine in my army colors and add light or baby blue (complimentary to my scheme) stripes or some other sort of signifier to distinguish it as a 'science' character instead.
Now I don't feel bad when I try to recreate any boxart Ogors. It takes me days for one miniature :o
Man, every time I open a box of minis I always get into an argument with myself on whether I'm copying the box art or doing my own, even though I know trying to decide on a color scheme would just take me forever. I never regret the decision to just copy cause that's always a fun time, but not as fun as edging though lol.
Great job!
What friggin brush with the long ass hairs with a killer point were u using?
how many hours did you spend painting this?
Do u use a magnifying glass?