I have been a small engine tech my whole life and I have seen a lot of videos of people that seem more concerned with having a repair channel than providing proven and helpful methods for repair. I like how you do yours. I can see and hear everything. Your production shows you care. And your method is correct. Keep making the tutorials cause we need more of this kind of quality my friend. Wrench on brother!
Dear sixtyford, Found a toro 20 snowmaster in the trash. Many breaks and cracks in plastic housing that I welded, and missing choke cable that I will fabricate. Could only get unit to start and stay running by spraying fuel directly into carb venturi. Thanks to your most helpful tutorial I believe will bring it back to life. You certainly are a gift to us students in the youtube classroom! All the best in gratitude from New Rochelle N.Y. bruce the swimmer
I bought a Toro snowmaster 20" S200 this summer at a garage sale and today, months later, we are in the middle of a snowstorm. The electric start appears to be missing completely. The guy I bought it from squirted a little gasoline into the carb to show it would start (tank was empty). I bought some starter spray instead of squirting gasoline into the carburetor, but it didn't work. I have now brought it into the house to warm up. While waiting for it to warm up I decided to look into what it would take to install a new electric starter but ran into this tutorial on rebuilding the carburetor instead. I just wanted to say I really appreciated your video. You clearly know what you are doing and you get right to it. I appreciate that. You are really good at doing this. I am a 58-year-old woman who has never had to make engine type repairs before this last year but now find myself in a position of having to learn. If you don't have enough money to pay someone else, you have to do it yourself. Thanks for posting this, I think I may find myself rebuilding a carburetor sooner than later. Now I will go see what I can find about electric starts.
I'm glad the video is helpful. The diaphragms dry up and no longer function properly. Your best bet for parts is going to be EBAY or Amazon. The electric starters on these have plastic teeth that get brittle and break off on these old starters, but they're cheap amzn.to/2gr9GzI . Make sure your machine also has the bracket to accept a starter. These are pretty easy machines to start with a clean carburetor by the hand pull start, so I recommend getting it going first before investing 50+- bucks for used starter. The only issues these face is the paddles wear. If the distance between the housing and the rubber paddle is greater than the width of a pencil, it won't perform very well. New paddles aren't to expensive and I have a link in the video description.
Hey sixtyfiveford THANKS for the excellent video. I was ready to chuck my grandfathers 1984 S200 in the trash. It went under water with hurricane Sandy and I figured it was seized. Amazingly enough, I was able to get it to run on carb spray. Your vid and an $8.00 rebuild kit from eBay brought it back to life. Keep up the great vids. Oh and BTW a messy workbench is the sure sign of a GOOD mechanic! Thanks again!
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped... FYI: These little S200 really benefit from good rubber paddles. They should touch the housing when new and will really suffer when the gap gets over 1/4". You can remove them and drill new holes further back at least one time in there life. It makes the difference of them throwing 3-4 feet to almost 10 feet.
@Gxs40... Welch plugs won't stop the engine from flooding. They are a bugger to remove and generally you will damage the small machined passages under the plugs in your attempt to remove them. Did you try blowing through the fuel inlet to test the needle/seat like I did at 5:30 vid 2? You can remove the diaphragm plate and diaphragm with the carb still on the engine and see is the needle leaks at this point. If no then the diaphragm is pushing on the needle and it is your culprit.
Your Welcome. I love these Toros. One of the best things you can do with your 620/200 is new paddles. If there is more than a 1/8" gap it severely affects the performance.
I was only using the technique as a helpful tool for people wanting to rebuild the carbs themselves. As a general rule of thumb the H or high jet gets turned out 1.5 full turns and the L low 1 full turn. This will allow the machine to start and run but tuning for your altitude/fuel will be necessary. BUT if the carb hasn't been played with then resetting the needles to the same they were before should make it run just right.
You did a very thorough job of describing the carburetor what the components of the carburetor do, and it was very helpful in rebuilding the carburetor on my snowblower. 💫💫💫💫💫
@myfordranger ... There are littler brass washers that go on the idle and high speed needles to protect the rubber O-ring from the tension spring. There is also a larger washer that goes with the seat assembly.
@mardyn153 ...Some Tecumseh diaphragm carbs come without them. But there is another larger passage drilled in the body on the models with them to allow fuel into the chamber.
Nice job on the video! This is the same carburetor that is on a lot of Craftsman products, specifically older Craftsman edgers. I was able to quickly tear down, clean, replace parts, and tune the motor with your assistance.
SparticusKohltrain Thanks for watching. If you want the diaphragms to last use only ethanol free fuel. pure-gas.org will show your local e-free stations.
@Gxs40 ... A leaky gasket between engine and carb would cause an air leak and make the engine run lean starving it for fuel (engine would most likely surge). The little metal tab should be left alone. It sets the high speed rpm. You need a tachometer to set it. With the engine off it should hold the butterfly fully open.
@barrythom1... Its flooding. So chances are dirt from the fuel tank is blocking the seal between the needle and seat. The needle cant stop fuel from running into the carb. Sometimes the problem can fix itself but not always. I would pull the spark plug and pull the engine a dozen time until no more fuel comes out of the spark plug hole. Clean the plug and reinstall it. Try starting the engine and see it if the obstruction clears itself. If not the carb needs to be cleaned once again
@barrythom1 ...... The s-200 is only about 2hp but they should have a decent amount of power. The best thing you can do for these is treat them to new paddles. It makes a world of difference if there worn more than a 1/4". Good Luck.
Besides getting it running, the paddles are very important to the performance of your machine. I have a link in the video description of where to get a complete kit. I also have technical details about tuning your carb in the video description. If the video helped, comment or leave a thumbs up.
@Gxs40 ... There are a couple possibilities. Did you replace the rubber seat for the needle? Is the diaphragm installed the correct way? Is the gasket and diaphragm installed in the correct order? Something isn't allowing the needle to fully close.
Well Guess What? Its a "1 Pull" now! Just in time here in Somerset Co. NJ. From the correction of the diaphragm you showed me, to the setting of the screws as per the video. It threw 16 inches of snow for hours, and 10 days later another 8 inches! Only now, after all that I got to replace a bad thrower bearing on the chain side. Not bad for a machine I threw in my back seat (put out on the curb, they gave up!!!) as I drove by. One man's trash...means my back isn't thrown instead of the snow!
The rebuild kit # for these carbs is 631893 or 631893a . They are available at local small engine shops and all over the web but your best bet is probably Ebay.
Wow I can't even begin to tell you how scarce the information is (in print, at various sites) on what you provided with 2 videos! You provided a score of facts that, if you don't know it, and had to search it out (Oh god the "Fix-it" forums!!) you'd be looking on-line for 4 to 6 hours...and still have to "trial and error" it. THANKS
You are right. 1 turn is 360 degrees. I accidentally only did half turns(talking, making a video and thinking about what to say next I must have been distracted). The carb had already been messed with by the previous owner and I was going to have to fine tune them anyways.
This video helped me a ton. I rebuilt the carb on my newly acquired s620 and it wouldn't run afterwords. I watched this video to see if I did something wrong. Seems whoever had this before me had the diaphragm in wrong. They had the big metal disk away from the carb. I installed it the way it came out thus causing my headaches. I installed it like this video.and it runs like a champ. Weird thing is. I had it running for a min or so with the diaphragm in the wrong way? O well it runs great now! Thanks a ton!
You're welcome. These are great machines and work amazing with new paddles. If your gap between the housing and the paddle is 1/4" or more you will see a big difference in performance. A pair of paddles is around $20 bucks.
so that little waher does go on the seat? my rupp roadster has the same carb. that small brass washer fell out but wasnt sure where it went. think i know now.
@sixtyfiveford have to check that out. i put one washer on the idle screw but i saw nothing on the other one?unless it fell out during taking it apart. have to check the main jet. i dont remember any washers on that? only needle , spring and that nut to that goes into the treads... have to take it apart again and look.
new needle and rubber seat! No f on carburetor so I install gasket and diaphram. Then I switch and both wasy it ran with less flooding when I did the opposite? Should I replace the welch plugs?
Awesome coverage of a 632142A rebuild. I am will be rebuilding one as soon the kit arrives and your video covered the whole process thoroughly. Try nitrile gloves, they work great.
Hi I have toro s200. I replaced needle, diaphragm and clean the carburetor,New fuel line and new carburetor gasket. It runs but floods from interface between carburetor and engine. I didn't replace welch plugs. Any suggestions? Also I was also wondering how to set up the spring attachement on butterfly?
Thank you for this how too video. Im trying to find the carb mounting gasket. Cant find it by part number I looked up in a diagram. I guess I need to just measure and find something similar?
@EddieGoregor .............You can blame ETHANOL in your fuel. Ethanol destroys fuel lines, diaphragms, o-rings, needle seats, and worst of all it pulls moisture out of the air. It is best to use a fuel Stabilizer like Sta-bil for storage or run the engine completely out of fuel. Your symptoms are a clogged main jet. you can probably get away with a quick 5 minute clean. With the carb attached: pull the bottom cover and diaphragm. Remove the H high needle on the side and spray carb cleaner
@sixtyfiveford I will try this tomorrow and see what happens. What chances leaky gasket between carburetor and engine?Do you know how to adjust the spring or set up? How far to pull on the butterfly? I really appreciate for your help
for those that are confused on what part numbers they need or assembly...first get the model# and serial# off of your machine and goto Toro's website goto Customer Support -> Homeowner - Equipment Support -> Manuals -> type in model# and serial# -> goto Manuals again and there will be a master parts list with assembly diagrams and the service manual applicable to your machine.
Did this same rebuild today before watching the video, had to call Tecumseh tech, was told by them that if the carb body is embossed with and S by the diaphragm then the order is carb body, gasket,diaphragm, cap. with no S it's just the opposite. Also told me the diaphragm goes in with the big metal disc towards the outside of the carb, not towards the carb body.
Great video! I have a S620. Can you tell me where to connect the throttle lever? There's holes on the vertical post and the flat part. Any help or video would be great. Thank you!
Its weird. Last year? I rebuilt the Toro S-140 Techumseh carb with the kit, ran perfect! This year? it loses its prime now and only runs in the full choke position! Now I know these carbs are sensitive but Jeesuz! This is the reason people hate diaphragm carbs. I mean, it just sat untouched. Why do they develop issues so easily? And is there another carb model that can be substituted in its place? Perhaps one that has a better performance record? Now there is 18 in and I must rebuild again!
Excellent detailed job! I had to go back and reinstall the old needle seat screw, as the new one was somehow keeping the needle pressed in. How do I set the RPM lever that connects to the carb screw, the one with the spring?
@fatrat440 .......All Tecumseh diaphragm carbs go Body, Gasket, Diaphragm UNLESS it has an "F" debossed on it then it goes Body, Diaphragm, Gasket. Your Tecumseh Tech is mistaken like 90% of everyone that rebuilds these and has me fix them for fuel starvation. The big metal disk always faces the body of the carb. All of this info is taken from years of experience and of course the Tecumseh Technicians Handbook.
@EddieGoregor ....There are still gas stations that have refused to conform and have ethanol free gasoline. This website lists some of them (by state); pure-gas.org
@sixtyfiveford You took the same words to tell me that local lawn mower shop did when they sold me yet another diaphragm kit. Ethanol destroyed the one I put in 10 months ago. I did try spraying and compressed air, no good! LOL anyhow I really went bad with the S140 this time. After getting it running good again...the drive chain got a little loose during the throw. Almost done, it was throwing less and less. It grind-ed off all the Aluminum sprocket teeth. A steel bike one will do.
Excellent videos. I had the same Toro S200 snowblower. My problem is I don't know how to removing the carburetor from the engine. Is it possible that you can do a video on removing the carb from the engine? Many thanks.
Sorry, but I don't have any of these Toros in my shop right now. You remove the bolts through the handle bars that hold on the red lower shroud/housing. This is a tight squeeze to pull it out and off, but possible. remove the fuel line (hair dryer will soften it) and the air primer hose. There are only 2 bolts holding the carb on. Remove those and rotate the carb to disengage the governor linkage on the top.
More than likely the little rubber needle seat is dry rotted and cracked. This won't allow the needle to seal off the fuel supply. There is really only 2 things than need to be replaced during a clean/rebuild: the needle seat and the large diaphragm.
Except for cases where old gas has been allowed to sit in the engine, turning to gum, you can usually get away with just replacing the diaphram and gasket. The carb kit doesn't have the carb to block gasket, I have just left the carb on the engine to not disturb, damage that gasket. I don't understand why they had two possible orientations with regard to placement of gasket and diaphram, am carefull to note original placement for re-assembly.
I am working on a Craftsman edger with a 4-cycle Tecumseh engine. It has not been used in several years. It starts with Starting Fluid but then "dies" immediately. This points to a fuel problem. The carburetor has no float bowl; it is a diaphragm-type, the same as that shown in this video. I disassembled the carburetor expecting to find it packed with deposits but it was clean. However, the diaphragm is stiff. Is there a way to restore it to normal flexibility or must it be replaced? .
I've got an old Tecumseh ah520. it blows air out of the carb. does that sound normal? I've checked the reed valve on the engine and it seems to be operating correctly. running out of ideas myself. any thoughts?
+sixtyfiveford removed exhaust completely. minimal build-up. still does it with it removed. wondering if it's because intake ports are exposed at some point on both strokes? is that what pumps the diaphragm?
The diaphragm doesn't need air to push out the intake to operate. It just needs the intake suction and let go pulses to pull fuel in. You will get a little air out the intake but it'll be minimal and non existent while running. The number one issue with these is a dried diaphragm in the carb. I suppose if the piston rings were shot that it could be discharging it's compression out of the exhaust. If you have access to a compression tester or an autoparts store that will rent you one for free I would try a compression test.
The diaphragm is essentially the fuel pump and they engine won't stay running. You may get it to start but it will quick die. On a side note if the diaphragm is more than 5 years old and it has had ethanol laced fuel it is dried out.
vids helped a lot, but, I have a new found major problem: Hi screw is broken off inside it's hole at about top of it's threads. I can not get it out. I am now thinking i need a rebuildable carb, or a 45 in it's head.
+Michael Leumer Chances are it is set to where it needs to be and just cleaning the carb will be fine. You don't always have to remove them. If you really must, cut a slot in the top of it with a dremel blade so you can use a flat head screwdriver.. Even if you nick or cut through the carb housing a little you'll be OK. I show what I'm talking about in this video even though it is for a slightly different reason ruclips.net/video/Pwvq5svV4JI/видео.html
sixtyfiveford this pin appears to be broke below the threads or at about that point. about 1/2 inch below opening. would think far below a safe to cut down to point. can't reach from behind access area under diaphram either. not w/o removal of brass plug there. can't get that plug from pts store either. I think it gets a 45 acp now. thanks for your help.
@ seiniorjohnl if you need a carb gasket in a pinch, trace the flange of the carb on coated cardboard from a cereal box. Cut out with a razor blade or exacto knife. Makes a perfect small gasket every time.
Do your self a favor, use a baking tray to spay the parts in also blow the passages out with air. Carb cleaner smells pretty bad and you can just clean the tray not your bench. You need to clean up that bench. You did a great job you just need to clean your act up
Air does nothing on these micro passages (it's fine for auto carbs). I have well over 250 carbs under my belt with only 2 that I had to ever replace. Carb cleaner gives a visual reference to the flow capabilities of a passage, air can't. I can tell instantley if the passage is flowing correctly. I don't use a pan simply because I do not want the parts sitting in dirty/gritty solution. The rags hold the grit and I have a direct overhead ventilator fan so I never breath it. Having a spotless workbench is personal preference and I try not to worry nor stress about meaningless tasks.
@fatrat440 You can download the Techumseh handbook from them online free! The Technicians handbook and the small carb and engine guide. I got em both from them for the clicking.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I have been a small engine tech my whole life and I have seen a lot of videos of people that seem more concerned with having a repair channel than providing proven and helpful methods for repair. I like how you do yours. I can see and hear everything. Your production shows you care. And your method is correct. Keep making the tutorials cause we need more of this kind of quality my friend. Wrench on brother!
Thanks for the compliments and the feedback.
Dear sixtyford,
Found a toro 20 snowmaster in the trash. Many breaks and cracks in plastic housing that I welded, and missing choke cable that I will fabricate. Could only get unit to start and stay running by spraying fuel directly into carb venturi. Thanks to your most helpful tutorial I believe will bring it back to life. You certainly are a gift to us students in the youtube classroom! All the best in gratitude from New Rochelle N.Y. bruce the swimmer
How did you weld the plastic? I need to do that to my snowblower. TIA
I bought a Toro snowmaster 20" S200 this summer at a garage sale and today, months later, we are in the middle of a snowstorm. The electric start appears to be missing completely. The guy I bought it from squirted a little gasoline into the carb to show it would start (tank was empty). I bought some starter spray instead of squirting gasoline into the carburetor, but it didn't work. I have now brought it into the house to warm up.
While waiting for it to warm up I decided to look into what it would take to install a new electric starter but ran into this tutorial on rebuilding the carburetor instead. I just wanted to say I really appreciated your video. You clearly know what you are doing and you get right to it. I appreciate that. You are really good at doing this.
I am a 58-year-old woman who has never had to make engine type repairs before this last year but now find myself in a position of having to learn. If you don't have enough money to pay someone else, you have to do it yourself.
Thanks for posting this, I think I may find myself rebuilding a carburetor sooner than later.
Now I will go see what I can find about electric starts.
I'm glad the video is helpful. The diaphragms dry up and no longer function properly. Your best bet for parts is going to be EBAY or Amazon.
The electric starters on these have plastic teeth that get brittle and break off on these old starters, but they're cheap amzn.to/2gr9GzI . Make sure your machine also has the bracket to accept a starter. These are pretty easy machines to start with a clean carburetor by the hand pull start, so I recommend getting it going first before investing 50+- bucks for used starter.
The only issues these face is the paddles wear. If the distance between the housing and the rubber paddle is greater than the width of a pencil, it won't perform very well. New paddles aren't to expensive and I have a link in the video description.
Hey sixtyfiveford THANKS for the excellent video. I was ready to chuck my grandfathers 1984 S200 in the trash. It went under water with hurricane Sandy and I figured it was seized. Amazingly enough, I was able to get it to run on carb spray. Your vid and an $8.00 rebuild kit from eBay brought it back to life. Keep up the great vids. Oh and BTW a messy workbench is the sure sign of a GOOD mechanic! Thanks again!
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped... FYI: These little S200 really benefit from good rubber paddles. They should touch the housing when new and will really suffer when the gap gets over 1/4". You can remove them and drill new holes further back at least one time in there life. It makes the difference of them throwing 3-4 feet to almost 10 feet.
@Gxs40... Welch plugs won't stop the engine from flooding. They are a bugger to remove and generally you will damage the small machined passages under the plugs in your attempt to remove them. Did you try blowing through the fuel inlet to test the needle/seat like I did at 5:30 vid 2? You can remove the diaphragm plate and diaphragm with the carb still on the engine and see is the needle leaks at this point. If no then the diaphragm is pushing on the needle and it is your culprit.
Your Welcome. I love these Toros. One of the best things you can do with your 620/200 is new paddles. If there is more than a 1/8" gap it severely affects the performance.
I was only using the technique as a helpful tool for people wanting to rebuild the carbs themselves. As a general rule of thumb the H or high jet gets turned out 1.5 full turns and the L low 1 full turn. This will allow the machine to start and run but tuning for your altitude/fuel will be necessary. BUT if the carb hasn't been played with then resetting the needles to the same they were before should make it run just right.
You did a very thorough job of describing the carburetor what the components of the carburetor do, and it was very helpful in rebuilding the carburetor on my snowblower. 💫💫💫💫💫
Glad it was helpful!
@myfordranger ... There are littler brass washers that go on the idle and high speed needles to protect the rubber O-ring from the tension spring. There is also a larger washer that goes with the seat assembly.
@mardyn153 ...Some Tecumseh diaphragm carbs come without them. But there is another larger passage drilled in the body on the models with them to allow fuel into the chamber.
Nice job on the video! This is the same carburetor that is on a lot of Craftsman products, specifically older Craftsman edgers. I was able to quickly tear down, clean, replace parts, and tune the motor with your assistance.
SparticusKohltrain Thanks for watching. If you want the diaphragms to last use only ethanol free fuel. pure-gas.org will show your local e-free stations.
@Gxs40 ... A leaky gasket between engine and carb would cause an air leak and make the engine run lean starving it for fuel (engine would most likely surge). The little metal tab should be left alone. It sets the high speed rpm. You need a tachometer to set it. With the engine off it should hold the butterfly fully open.
@barrythom1... Its flooding. So chances are dirt from the fuel tank is blocking the seal between the needle and seat. The needle cant stop fuel from running into the carb. Sometimes the problem can fix itself but not always. I would pull the spark plug and pull the engine a dozen time until no more fuel comes out of the spark plug hole. Clean the plug and reinstall it. Try starting the engine and see it if the obstruction clears itself. If not the carb needs to be cleaned once again
@barrythom1 ...... The s-200 is only about 2hp but they should have a decent amount of power. The best thing you can do for these is treat them to new paddles. It makes a world of difference if there worn more than a 1/4". Good Luck.
Besides getting it running, the paddles are very important to the performance of your machine. I have a link in the video description of where to get a complete kit. I also have technical details about tuning your carb in the video description. If the video helped, comment or leave a thumbs up.
@Gxs40 ... There are a couple possibilities. Did you replace the rubber seat for the needle? Is the diaphragm installed the correct way? Is the gasket and diaphragm installed in the correct order? Something isn't allowing the needle to fully close.
Well Guess What? Its a "1 Pull" now! Just in time here in Somerset Co. NJ. From the correction of the diaphragm you showed me, to the setting of the screws as per the video. It threw 16 inches of snow for hours, and 10 days later another 8 inches! Only now, after all that I got to replace a bad thrower bearing on the chain side. Not bad for a machine I threw in my back seat (put out on the curb, they gave up!!!) as I drove by. One man's trash...means my back isn't thrown instead of the snow!
The rebuild kit # for these carbs is 631893 or 631893a . They are available at local small engine shops and all over the web but your best bet is probably Ebay.
Wow I can't even begin to tell you how scarce the information is (in print, at various sites) on what you provided with 2 videos! You provided a score of facts that, if you don't know it, and had to search it out (Oh god the "Fix-it" forums!!) you'd be looking on-line for 4 to 6 hours...and still have to "trial and error" it. THANKS
You are right. 1 turn is 360 degrees. I accidentally only did half turns(talking, making a video and thinking about what to say next I must have been distracted). The carb had already been messed with by the previous owner and I was going to have to fine tune them anyways.
@EddieGoregor.......... Through the passage and the bowl area. Reassemble and you should be good. Good Luck.
This video helped me a ton. I rebuilt the carb on my newly acquired s620 and it wouldn't run afterwords. I watched this video to see if I did something wrong. Seems whoever had this before me had the diaphragm in wrong. They had the big metal disk away from the carb. I installed it the way it came out thus causing my headaches. I installed it like this video.and it runs like a champ. Weird thing is. I had it running for a min or so with the diaphragm in the wrong way? O well it runs great now! Thanks a ton!
You're welcome. These are great machines and work amazing with new paddles. If your gap between the housing and the paddle is 1/4" or more you will see a big difference in performance. A pair of paddles is around $20 bucks.
@barrythom1 ... Bad needle seat or Dried up diaphragm
@TheMontanaDave ...... GREAT, I am glad you got it going.
I can't thank you enough. Well done vid. My old $5 Garage sale grab is now worth it. 2 year old gas and a gummed up carb. Thanks again.
@Gxs40 If Yes then your needle and seat aren't sealing and need to be re-cleaned.
so that little waher does go on the seat? my rupp roadster has the same carb. that small brass washer fell out but wasnt sure where it went. think i know now.
@sixtyfiveford have to check that out. i put one washer on the idle screw but i saw nothing on the other one?unless it fell out during taking it apart. have to check the main jet. i dont remember any washers on that? only needle , spring and that nut to that goes into the treads... have to take it apart again and look.
new needle and rubber seat! No f on carburetor so I install gasket and diaphram. Then I switch and both wasy it ran with less flooding when I did the opposite? Should I replace the welch plugs?
I appreciate the video buddy. I'm getting ready to do the carb on my s-200 and I found this very helpful!
+bchs98 I'm glad it helped. Those S-200s are good machines, especially with new paddles.
Awesome coverage of a 632142A rebuild. I am will be rebuilding one as soon the kit arrives and your video covered the whole process thoroughly. Try nitrile gloves, they work great.
Great,hopefully it helps. These gloves are the nitrile. The Acetone in carb cleaner eats almost anything plastic/rubber based.
Hi
I have toro s200. I replaced needle, diaphragm and clean the carburetor,New fuel line and new carburetor gasket. It runs but floods from interface between carburetor and engine. I didn't replace welch plugs. Any suggestions? Also I was also wondering how to set up the spring attachement on butterfly?
@barrythom1 ... Does the machine actually run?
Thank you for this how too video. Im trying to find the carb mounting gasket. Cant find it by part number I looked up in a diagram. I guess I need to just measure and find something similar?
Followed directions on cleaning carb and adjusted. Runs great
Thanks
Awesome. I'm glad the video helped.
@EddieGoregor .............You can blame ETHANOL in your fuel. Ethanol destroys fuel lines, diaphragms, o-rings, needle seats, and worst of all it pulls moisture out of the air. It is best to use a fuel Stabilizer like Sta-bil for storage or run the engine completely out of fuel.
Your symptoms are a clogged main jet. you can probably get away with a quick 5 minute clean. With the carb attached: pull the bottom cover and diaphragm. Remove the H high needle on the side and spray carb cleaner
@sixtyfiveford
I will try this tomorrow and see what happens. What chances leaky gasket between carburetor and engine?Do you know how to adjust the spring or set up? How far to pull on the butterfly? I really appreciate for your help
Great video. I used it to rebuild the carb on my s140. Can you post a pic of the top of the carb so I can see how the governor and spring hooks up?
Sorry, I don't have any images of the governor linkage. You may be able to find one on Google.
for those that are confused on what part numbers they need or assembly...first get the model# and serial# off of your machine and goto Toro's website goto Customer Support -> Homeowner - Equipment Support -> Manuals -> type in model# and serial# -> goto Manuals again and there will be a master parts list with assembly diagrams and the service manual applicable to your machine.
I am glad I could help.
Did this same rebuild today before watching the video, had to call Tecumseh tech, was told by them that if the carb body is embossed with and S by the diaphragm then the order is carb body, gasket,diaphragm, cap. with no S it's just the opposite. Also told me the diaphragm goes in with the big metal disc towards the outside of the carb, not towards the carb body.
Great video! I have a S620. Can you tell me where to connect the throttle lever? There's holes on the vertical post and the flat part. Any help or video would be great. Thank you!
On Toro's website you should be able to pull up a parts breakdown and see how it is situated.
Its weird. Last year? I rebuilt the Toro S-140 Techumseh carb with the kit, ran perfect! This year? it loses its prime now and only runs in the full choke position! Now I know these carbs are sensitive but Jeesuz! This is the reason people hate diaphragm carbs. I mean, it just sat untouched. Why do they develop issues so easily? And is there another carb model that can be substituted in its place? Perhaps one that has a better performance record? Now there is 18 in and I must rebuild again!
Is there a compatible replacement, or a substitute carburetor that can be used?
Thank you very much for these videos, they sure helped me a lot
Excellent detailed job! I had to go back and reinstall the old needle seat screw, as the new one was somehow keeping the needle pressed in.
How do I set the RPM lever that connects to the carb screw, the one with the spring?
You bend it until the proper rpm is obtained. The harder the spring is pulled the higher the rpm.
@fatrat440 .......All Tecumseh diaphragm carbs go Body, Gasket, Diaphragm UNLESS it has an "F" debossed on it then it goes Body, Diaphragm, Gasket. Your Tecumseh Tech is mistaken like 90% of everyone that rebuilds these and has me fix them for fuel starvation. The big metal disk always faces the body of the carb. All of this info is taken from years of experience and of course the Tecumseh Technicians Handbook.
Good Video I have a S 140. Where is the letter stamp on the carb, So I can determine what side the gasket goes on as to the diapram
+mikes station The F stamp is on the side. Generally your fine just to mimic what you pull off.
@EddieGoregor ....There are still gas stations that have refused to conform and have ethanol free gasoline. This website lists some of them (by state); pure-gas.org
my father has the same engine and can't seem to get the plastic air vane to flap properly to cool the engine. any suggestions?
I'll entertain this question as I assume you're seroius. The air vane is a governor not a cooling device.
@@sixtyfiveford I realised that afterwards lol sorry. I'm assuming it's not moving properly
@sixtyfiveford You took the same words to tell me that local lawn mower shop did when they sold me yet another diaphragm kit. Ethanol destroyed the one I put in 10 months ago. I did try spraying and compressed air, no good! LOL anyhow I really went bad with the S140 this time. After getting it running good again...the drive chain got a little loose during the throw. Almost done, it was throwing less and less. It grind-ed off all the Aluminum sprocket teeth. A steel bike one will do.
Great video. Just what I needed to rebuild my Craftsman edger's carb.
lances4803 Awesome. I'm glad your keeping it alive.
Excellent videos. I had the same Toro S200 snowblower. My problem is I don't know how to removing the carburetor from the engine. Is it possible that you can do a video on removing the carb from the engine? Many thanks.
Sorry, but I don't have any of these Toros in my shop right now. You remove the bolts through the handle bars that hold on the red lower shroud/housing. This is a tight squeeze to pull it out and off, but possible. remove the fuel line (hair dryer will soften it) and the air primer hose. There are only 2 bolts holding the carb on. Remove those and rotate the carb to disengage the governor linkage on the top.
Thank you for your speedy reply. I will try to remove the carb as per your suggestion, Many thanks.
Mine leaks fuel. Could the needle be stuck open?
More than likely the little rubber needle seat is dry rotted and cracked. This won't allow the needle to seal off the fuel supply. There is really only 2 things than need to be replaced during a clean/rebuild: the needle seat and the large diaphragm.
Except for cases where old gas has been allowed to sit in the engine, turning to gum, you can usually get away with just replacing the diaphram and gasket. The carb kit doesn't have the carb to block gasket, I have just left the carb on the engine to not disturb, damage that gasket. I don't understand why they had two possible orientations with regard to placement of gasket and diaphram, am carefull to note original placement for re-assembly.
@lego6789.....There are several hundred places online or any local mower shop can get it for you.
I am working on a Craftsman edger with a 4-cycle Tecumseh engine. It has not been used in several years. It starts with Starting Fluid but then "dies" immediately. This points to a fuel problem.
The carburetor has no float bowl; it is a diaphragm-type, the same as that shown in this video.
I disassembled the carburetor expecting to find it packed with deposits but it was clean. However, the diaphragm is stiff. Is there a way to restore it to normal flexibility or must it be replaced?
.
You'll need to replace the diaphragm.
very nice job on covering the rebuild of these pesky carbs! very helpful, thanks!!!!
@EddieGoregor Thanks for the info. Actually did as you said in your vid and got mine running with no leaks, Thanks.
@sixtyfiveford Your right, when he told me this I had misunderstood him. Thought he said "S" not "F" like you stated. Sorry for the confusion.
I've got an old Tecumseh ah520. it blows air out of the carb. does that sound normal? I've checked the reed valve on the engine and it seems to be operating correctly. running out of ideas myself. any thoughts?
+Ben Carson Exhaust can get clogged.
+sixtyfiveford removed exhaust completely. minimal build-up. still does it with it removed. wondering if it's because intake ports are exposed at some point on both strokes? is that what pumps the diaphragm?
The diaphragm doesn't need air to push out the intake to operate. It just needs the intake suction and let go pulses to pull fuel in. You will get a little air out the intake but it'll be minimal and non existent while running. The number one issue with these is a dried diaphragm in the carb. I suppose if the piston rings were shot that it could be discharging it's compression out of the exhaust. If you have access to a compression tester or an autoparts store that will rent you one for free I would try a compression test.
How do I know if the diaphragm is bad?
The diaphragm is essentially the fuel pump and they engine won't stay running. You may get it to start but it will quick die. On a side note if the diaphragm is more than 5 years old and it has had ethanol laced fuel it is dried out.
sixtyfiveford okay thank you very much!
vids helped a lot, but, I have a new found major problem: Hi screw is broken off inside it's hole at about top of it's threads. I can not get it out. I am now thinking i need a rebuildable carb, or a 45 in it's head.
+Michael Leumer Chances are it is set to where it needs to be and just cleaning the carb will be fine. You don't always have to remove them. If you really must, cut a slot in the top of it with a dremel blade so you can use a flat head screwdriver.. Even if you nick or cut through the carb housing a little you'll be OK. I show what I'm talking about in this video even though it is for a slightly different reason ruclips.net/video/Pwvq5svV4JI/видео.html
sixtyfiveford this pin appears to be broke below the threads or at about that point. about 1/2 inch below opening. would think far below a safe to cut down to point. can't reach from behind access area under diaphram either. not w/o removal of brass plug there. can't get that plug from pts store either. I think it gets a 45 acp now. thanks for your help.
That sucks. They can't all survive.
@ seiniorjohnl if you need a carb gasket in a pinch, trace the flange of the carb on coated cardboard from a cereal box. Cut out with a razor blade or exacto knife. Makes a perfect small gasket every time.
and what if it dont run?
Thanks for the help! You Rock!
I'm glad it was helpful.
Excellent Video has been very helpful Thanks!
awsome video thx a bunch for loading it helped alot
Do your self a favor, use a baking tray to spay the parts in also blow the passages out with air. Carb cleaner smells pretty bad and you can just clean the tray not your bench. You need to clean up that bench. You did a great job you just need to clean your act up
Air does nothing on these micro passages (it's fine for auto carbs). I have well over 250 carbs under my belt with only 2 that I had to ever replace. Carb cleaner gives a visual reference to the flow capabilities of a passage, air can't. I can tell instantley if the passage is flowing correctly. I don't use a pan simply because I do not want the parts sitting in dirty/gritty solution. The rags hold the grit and I have a direct overhead ventilator fan so I never breath it. Having a spotless workbench is personal preference and I try not to worry nor stress about meaningless tasks.
@fatrat440 Ya its an "F" as far as I've ever read. With F Dia+gasket+ cover Without F Gasket+dia+cover
Nice video but get some time to clean the bench Bro !!
@fatrat440 You can download the Techumseh handbook from them online free! The Technicians handbook and the small carb and engine guide. I got em both from them for the clicking.
@myfordranger washer. oops.
washers. oops.