These are the only uploads I actually look forward to daily and the only ones I miss when he doesn't. I've never owned an evo or a Subi in my life. I drive a hellcat....... not a clue why I ended up here but I'll be here forever lol
Anytime you have oil in the cooling system even with the previous owner, All the hoses should be checked and or replaced as oil destroys the hoses and causes blow outs as the rubber rapidly deteriorates from oil exposure
When torqueing the head bolts or nuts you should always work from the center outward alternating between each side as you go, by tightening the bolts in the way you did it's possible you made the head even worse, it's always a best practice to tighten and loosen long flanges or heads in this manner to avoid warpage.
this is no attack or hate, this is just helpful observation @13:34, unless thread pitch is dif for the nut compared to the head. for the head studs, it looks like you have head studs in upside down> that round end of the head stup should be facing up, and the flat side of head stud should be facing down. 2 reasons.. the round edge creates a gap that has no threads, meaning when you screw it in, and it bottoms out in the block there is about 1-16" to 1/8" of material that is not engaging any threads. where as if you were to install the head stud flat side down. the threads go all the way to the edge of the stud, this allows the threads of the bolt to grab all the threads in the block all the way down to the very bottom of the hole. this is maximum grip! more threads that get grabbed inside the block the less chance of ripping out threads. the round side is to face up because it helps to start the nuts onto the studs... the round side needs to face up because it does no matter if the threads dont go all the way to the end beacause the nut goes way past the end to tightened down onto the top of the head. so the round side facces up and the flat side of the head stud faces down towards the block.. you puled out youre threads because the head stud was installed upside down and not all of the head bolt studs were being used when torqued down because the round side facing down is missing threads so not all the threads in the block got used and made the threads that were left over weaker without the remaining threads to help fully enguage the head stud.
i just did some research, those head studs are garbage because of that design with missing threads due to round shape at the end. those headstuds are shit! you installed correctly. that round end should not be at the end, cause again it prevents you from using all the threads available inside the block. that round edge has no threads so it will never Engauge all the threads available in the hole. that is stupid design. id be chopping off those round ends so they can get 100% of thread engagement in the block threads. or id be buying head studs that already know and support that knowledge into there head stud design.
@17:57 there is an article by a big machine shop that build nissan 300zx, z32 motors. they compared all kinds of after market head studs to a cross cut section of a vg30dett cast iron block. he fully threaded in the head studs and showed clear as day that that stupid nipple arp is using removed 1/8th to 1/4" of the threads from the head stud in comparison to an oem head bolt. you can put a arp stud and oem head bolt side to side. line up the bolt of the bolts (threaded ends) and look how far down to the edge of the bolt the threads go on an oem head bolt. compared to an arp head stud,. you will see the oem bolts have threads all the way to the end of the bolt. arp has that stupid thread less nipple at the end. this is bad for strength. ESP threaded into an aluminum block as our cast iron block were pulling threads out of the block at 900+ hp with 20+ pounds of boost. during his testing as mentioned above. the arp was ignoring the threads in the deepest part of the head bolt holes which again, for an aluminum motor. is catastrophic!!!! if gonna run those that nipple needs to be milled off by a machine shop so itll be cut down flat to the start of the threads without over heating the head stud from an angle grinder and compromising the strength of the head stud. take them all to machine shop and get that nipple flattened down to the start of the threads. the machine shop that discovered this is now manufacturing there own head studs for the vg that give threads all the way down to the absolute bottom of the head bolt threads holes so the head studs have the most chance possible to fully Engauge with every single thread available in the block to be grabbed onto. those fancy ass head studs and there stupid ass threadless nipples are dangerous for aluminum blocks.. esp ones that had pror history of sus performance.
if that is an aluminum block. drill out all of youre head studs threads, red lock tight steel healy coils into the new larger threads so that new thread holes left from new healy coils matches the threads previously in the aluminum for the head blots. which is now the new threads from the healy coils which is 10X stronger then aluminum threads.
I watched a Legacy before me in the dyno lift the head at OTL performance in Iowa with no damage shut down at 1200hp. New gaskets, APR . Good to go. I only made 350 wheel on my 02 WRX wagon haha.
The thicker head studs provide more clamping force, however, they have little to no forgiveness, so they wont stretch when the pressure becomes too hight. A smaller diameter bolt wont have the clamping force that these do, but if the pressure becomes to much its more likely to stretch. As with anything its a trade off. If i am remembering correctly 🤔
Ductility is a material property, not a geometric property. You are incorrect with your recollection. A larger diameter bolt absolutely can be more ductile, it all comes down to material type.
Hilarious watching devin tell bobbi bad news haha good thing he’s the master mechanic evo back up and running in no time keep up the great work guys always enjoy your content respect
At the end of the day he does all the work, she understands what can happen. It’s apart of high horsepower cars and it’s the game you play. If she wasn’t happy it’s not hard to not let him drive the cars or just leave. Keep your 2 cents with your shitty attitude missues
I did a head gasket check on my ladies dd and felt same way like 🤦🏽♂️ but tested good need to find the leak and swap at radiator cap. Gl and excited to cont watching
Every shop needs a rollcart. Got two, ones a parts holder the other assist in tools that will be used over the course of a few days. Tough luck on the headgasket but, happened for a reason. Upgrade time.
Now, you gotta have Jared help you fix it. I think you should Bobbis evo at stock boost under 10psi @5 or 6. Whatever a stock EcoBoost psi boost, that would be ideal. I say this cause you hear it spoil an feel into boost a tiny bit, without damage. I do need toolcart for my garage, cool
In my vqvhr I have 625+ headstuds and they are a one time use. It's probably the same with your motor as well. Especially if they were reused from when the motor had a lifted head, when you tear it apart you should get new headstuds Devin.
That's the exact same cart I use at work....I have like 5 of those.... Meat department manager...... We go through product that for sure.....but I know that cart all day....I built several lol!
Blame it on Jared😂... in the beginning i thought it was true because he doesn't has that much luck on evo's🙏🏼BUT DEVIN you are a savage with driving a evo NO MERCY!!🤤....not related info but that evo needs a black headliner 🤗
I sold my WRX and bought a model three tesla, but i still find myself coming back here. If i can find an EVO for a reasonable price, parking space and wife be damned, im getting it.
You can put a Time Cert in the block, look into them, they are better than a hela coil and way stronger than the original aluminum threads, right after I commented you talked about fixing it with Time Certs, so disregard
Aluminum cast block and arp 625's + a good bit of boost = block threads toast. Thats why I prefer a 4g iron block. Much harder to rip the threads out, but its easier for head to warp being as it's Aluminum on top of iron block. But I'd rather redeck or replace head than replacing the whole shortblock.
I wonder if those threads were the culprit of the original head lift. In otherwords there are no threads when you rebuilt it. Your new studs grabbed whatever thread was left then ripped out completely 😔. I'm so sorry that happened. I hope you can rethread it instead of pulling the engine. Then you can take your time and build a better short block.
I f****** love you man this is exactly why I watch your videos not only are you inspiring but you just do f****** funny bro I'm ready for my ride around the shop LOL
O-ring the head or block next, and also upgrading to a larger stud is an option though that means full breakdown and drilling the block for larger studs. plus side is when going to a bigger stud you can use a lesser grade like arp 2000's which will work fine.
why would you use a harder material bolt, i mean it looks like its important the bolt should have some strech so it wouldn't pull the threads, or maybe it was tourqed badly and thats why it pulled the threads ?
@@alberta3157 common problem with evo x blocks high horsepower 800+ 35psi+ that the headstuds will pull the threads out the block . its not the headstuds fault the threads are weak . if you going this route the best bet is to drill out all the threads and time cert them and it wont happen
@@blaqjac21 I just thought that putting a little softer studs will allow the studs to stretch thus reducing the force the threads has to take, because if you are putting really strong stud that doesn't stretch at all it forwards all the force on the softer parts in this case its the threads
Don’t beat those to bad, I use to work for HFT and we went through 2 cause in a year or so cause the handles snapped off. That sucks that her evo went bad, but if anyone can do a crazy turn around on fixing it’s you.
my main thought/concern is the block needed to be decked not just the head . with alotta boost its not a bad idea, a pain yes, but not a bad idea. if the car is going to be running all that power n boost it has to be pretty spot on to have a chance at running right much less for any amount of time , unless you just want a hard parker that flexes specs but blows chunks under a load. decks on the blakc an dhead must be perfect and use only the best studs and gaskets and well o ring the thing and whatever else. perhaps the best sleeves money can buy. I mean if this is her mona lisa where is the issue to make it perfect. (dolla dolla bill yall)
Using these studs on the stock cast block will have the same results a lot. It's because the cast blocks in the X are weak. I actually know a guy that machined out the bolt holes, n used a custom bolt with heavier, beefier threads in a stronger material n redistributed the load from these new pieces better around the cast aluminum. But is this a realistic method for most? No.. he runs machine shop so it's easy for him to experiment. Devon should spend the $10k on a billet block how cool would that be!! He could throw 80lbs at that thing n explode rods n the block would still survive lmao 🤣
honestly, pulled the stud out isnt from anything you did. it's just one of those things that randomly happen to some cars. those 625's are strong, it'll take a lot to stretch them. L19's are similar to 625's, same material and manu process. the 625's are just aged differently and the L19's just don't want to see moisture.
I have learned many things from.this channel but one thing for sure is that if i am gonna modify a sti or evo i need to buy 2 as they always seem to break down for all kinds a reasons.
put the hks head gasket in it. only thing that worked for me. my car has seen 60 psi on a 7275 so far no issues. ive been through literally every other gasket there is.
Dev again never underestimate your SKILL, as for the normal persons it cost another maybe $3k or more and another week's down...Anyway more blessings me G.
damn that sucks, after all that hard work 😔, but hey shit happens, you identified the problem, Like you say no sure way tell when it happened, if it was over torqued at some point, or faulty headbolt, might be exactly same scenario the previous owner had when the car was sold to you with the lifted head. Anyway Devin will build it bigger and better, Bobbi 🤗 you will just have wait bit longer, till Devin fixes it to beat him in his Camo Evo next time at the track 😁😋👍🔥
Just seen the title not the video yet and i'm like: Ah shit, here we go again. 😆😂 Poor Jared, he will actually believe he is hexed by now lol. Edit: Bummer that this happened with Bob's Evo. Luckily it'll be fine and is still driveable.
These are the only uploads I actually look forward to daily and the only ones I miss when he doesn't. I've never owned an evo or a Subi in my life. I drive a hellcat....... not a clue why I ended up here but I'll be here forever lol
I don't have a car and here I am. Love this content
Fr though. aside from the couple of gaming channels I watch, Devin is the only channel I actually get excited to see an upload from.
FYI A burst hose can drop the coolant pressure which lowers the boiling point causing rapid water expansion due to it turning to steam
Anytime you have oil in the cooling system even with the previous owner, All the hoses should be checked and or replaced as oil destroys the hoses and causes blow outs as the rubber rapidly deteriorates from oil exposure
Few years rapid yes
Everyone acting like Jared drove the car before even watching the video 😂
I said that on IG this morning lmfao
@Michael Benson 😂😂😂🤌🏾
The title of the video
He’s in the car isn’t he?, so it’s his fault 😂
@Michael Benson A
Hl
No disrespect, but I love the closeup of Bobbie's eyes when the cart went up the lift....keep this one!
Tool carts are legit one of the absolute BEST things to have in a shop & most under rated!! shoutout to shop carts around the world!!
wholesome content at the end made me smile. Love the content brother
When torqueing the head bolts or nuts you should always work from the center outward alternating between each side as you go, by tightening the bolts in the way you did it's possible you made the head even worse, it's always a best practice to tighten and loosen long flanges or heads in this manner to avoid warpage.
Agreed
this is no attack or hate, this is just helpful observation @13:34, unless thread pitch is dif for the nut compared to the head. for the head studs, it looks like you have head studs in upside down> that round end of the head stup should be facing up, and the flat side of head stud should be facing down. 2 reasons.. the round edge creates a gap that has no threads, meaning when you screw it in, and it bottoms out in the block there is about 1-16" to 1/8" of material that is not engaging any threads. where as if you were to install the head stud flat side down. the threads go all the way to the edge of the stud, this allows the threads of the bolt to grab all the threads in the block all the way down to the very bottom of the hole. this is maximum grip! more threads that get grabbed inside the block the less chance of ripping out threads. the round side is to face up because it helps to start the nuts onto the studs... the round side needs to face up because it does no matter if the threads dont go all the way to the end beacause the nut goes way past the end to tightened down onto the top of the head. so the round side facces up and the flat side of the head stud faces down towards the block.. you puled out youre threads because the head stud was installed upside down and not all of the head bolt studs were being used when torqued down because the round side facing down is missing threads so not all the threads in the block got used and made the threads that were left over weaker without the remaining threads to help fully enguage the head stud.
i just did some research, those head studs are garbage because of that design with missing threads due to round shape at the end. those headstuds are shit! you installed correctly. that round end should not be at the end, cause again it prevents you from using all the threads available inside the block. that round edge has no threads so it will never Engauge all the threads available in the hole. that is stupid design. id be chopping off those round ends so they can get 100% of thread engagement in the block threads. or id be buying head studs that already know and support that knowledge into there head stud design.
@17:57 there is an article by a big machine shop that build nissan 300zx, z32 motors. they compared all kinds of after market head studs to a cross cut section of a vg30dett cast iron block. he fully threaded in the head studs and showed clear as day that that stupid nipple arp is using removed 1/8th to 1/4" of the threads from the head stud in comparison to an oem head bolt. you can put a arp stud and oem head bolt side to side. line up the bolt of the bolts (threaded ends) and look how far down to the edge of the bolt the threads go on an oem head bolt. compared to an arp head stud,. you will see the oem bolts have threads all the way to the end of the bolt. arp has that stupid thread less nipple at the end. this is bad for strength. ESP threaded into an aluminum block as our cast iron block were pulling threads out of the block at 900+ hp with 20+ pounds of boost. during his testing as mentioned above. the arp was ignoring the threads in the deepest part of the head bolt holes which again, for an aluminum motor. is catastrophic!!!! if gonna run those that nipple needs to be milled off by a machine shop so itll be cut down flat to the start of the threads without over heating the head stud from an angle grinder and compromising the strength of the head stud. take them all to machine shop and get that nipple flattened down to the start of the threads.
the machine shop that discovered this is now manufacturing there own head studs for the vg that give threads all the way down to the absolute bottom of the head bolt threads holes so the head studs have the most chance possible to fully Engauge with every single thread available in the block to be grabbed onto. those fancy ass head studs and there stupid ass threadless nipples are dangerous for aluminum blocks.. esp ones that had pror history of sus performance.
The things you learn on this channel is priceless. You’re a legend bro. 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
if that is an aluminum block. drill out all of youre head studs threads, red lock tight steel healy coils into the new larger threads so that new thread holes left from new healy coils matches the threads previously in the aluminum for the head blots. which is now the new threads from the healy coils which is 10X stronger then aluminum threads.
Gah damn it jared...breaking everything 😅
I watched a Legacy before me in the dyno lift the head at OTL performance in Iowa with no damage shut down at 1200hp. New gaskets, APR . Good to go. I only made 350 wheel on my 02 WRX wagon haha.
The thicker head studs provide more clamping force, however, they have little to no forgiveness, so they wont stretch when the pressure becomes too hight. A smaller diameter bolt wont have the clamping force that these do, but if the pressure becomes to much its more likely to stretch. As with anything its a trade off. If i am remembering correctly
🤔
Ductility is a material property, not a geometric property. You are incorrect with your recollection. A larger diameter bolt absolutely can be more ductile, it all comes down to material type.
Gotta love Dev and Bobbi’s relationship. Hell of a couple. 💯💯💯
Hilarious watching devin tell bobbi bad news haha good thing he’s the master mechanic evo back up and running in no time keep up the great work guys always enjoy your content respect
At the end of the day he does all the work, she understands what can happen. It’s apart of high horsepower cars and it’s the game you play. If she wasn’t happy it’s not hard to not let him drive the cars or just leave. Keep your 2 cents with your shitty attitude missues
Devin has the life we all carguys want😩🤣
With the baddest car girl ever😩
I did a head gasket check on my ladies dd and felt same way like 🤦🏽♂️ but tested good need to find the leak and swap at radiator cap. Gl and excited to cont watching
you mod anything. you risk failure, we all love to play that game, no ones to blame. race.break.fix.repeat!
on god
Every shop needs a rollcart. Got two, ones a parts holder the other assist in tools that will be used over the course of a few days. Tough luck on the headgasket but, happened for a reason. Upgrade time.
Now, you gotta have Jared help you fix it.
I think you should Bobbis evo at stock boost under 10psi @5 or 6.
Whatever a stock EcoBoost psi boost, that would be ideal.
I say this cause you hear it spoil an feel into boost a tiny bit, without damage.
I do need toolcart for my garage, cool
In my vqvhr I have 625+ headstuds and they are a one time use. It's probably the same with your motor as well. Especially if they were reused from when the motor had a lifted head, when you tear it apart you should get new headstuds Devin.
rookie mistake
Incorrect
The cart 🛒 on the lift and the small hole to hold an egg had me rolling 😂. Next shop mod should be an air tool.
Also if you done the Head gasket..the car will run rough..shake badly the engine ..and probably over heat quickly
That's the exact same cart I use at work....I have like 5 of those.... Meat department manager...... We go through product that for sure.....but I know that cart all day....I built several lol!
Blame it on Jared😂... in the beginning i thought it was true because he doesn't has that much luck on evo's🙏🏼BUT DEVIN you are a savage with driving a evo NO MERCY!!🤤....not related info but that evo needs a black headliner 🤗
Not sure how I ended up watching your channel but I love the content u make and watch ur videos daily
Such great information. Headgasket time! Another banger video from Devin!
I sold my WRX and bought a model three tesla, but i still find myself coming back here. If i can find an EVO for a reasonable price, parking space and wife be damned, im getting it.
Bobbi you’re WAY TOO NICE to let Devin drive your cars. Lol………..😜😎👌🏻.
I feel bad for Bobbi, she loved that car so far.
“It ain’t got no gas in it “
You can put a Time Cert in the block, look into them, they are better than a hela coil and way stronger than the original aluminum threads, right after I commented you talked about fixing it with Time Certs, so disregard
Aluminum cast block and arp 625's + a good bit of boost = block threads toast.
Thats why I prefer a 4g iron block. Much harder to rip the threads out, but its easier for head to warp being as it's Aluminum on top of iron block.
But I'd rather redeck or replace head than replacing the whole shortblock.
thread inserts work pretty well on 4b11s
Can’t wait for more of the new Sti you got!
Sameee
same
5:55 Devin use that music over more in your vids that was perfect for disassembly it had a vibe going 👍
Dumb idea but after the 50-100 miles ect check torque within the first 2 oil changes/after break in period just to be on the safe side
I’m amazed it’s not blowing smoke or losing compression
I wonder if those threads were the culprit of the original head lift. In otherwords there are no threads when you rebuilt it. Your new studs grabbed whatever thread was left then ripped out completely 😔. I'm so sorry that happened. I hope you can rethread it instead of pulling the engine. Then you can take your time and build a better short block.
I f****** love you man this is exactly why I watch your videos not only are you inspiring but you just do f****** funny bro I'm ready for my ride around the shop LOL
Jared need a Mantra, he's like a bad luck charm, definitely got a "Jinn" walking with him, lol.
O-ring the head or block next, and also upgrading to a larger stud is an option though that means full breakdown and drilling the block for larger studs. plus side is when going to a bigger stud you can use a lesser grade like arp 2000's which will work fine.
cant do that on evo x studs will hit the coolant ports
why would you use a harder material bolt, i mean it looks like its important the bolt should have some strech so it wouldn't pull the threads, or maybe it was tourqed badly and thats why it pulled the threads ?
@@alberta3157 common problem with evo x blocks high horsepower 800+ 35psi+ that the headstuds will pull the threads out the block . its not the headstuds fault the threads are weak . if you going this route the best bet is to drill out all the threads and time cert them and it wont happen
@@blaqjac21 I just thought that putting a little softer studs will allow the studs to stretch thus reducing the force the threads has to take, because if you are putting really strong stud that doesn't stretch at all it forwards all the force on the softer parts in this case its the threads
@@alberta3157 at that point the head will lift & wont hold boost
That shirt Jared had on is 🔥🔥🔥 And the cart on the lift!! 😂😂 You had me dying 😂😂😂 Keep grinding, your appreciated 💯🤘🏻👊🏻
Always Jared 🤣 u can’t let him near cars 🤣
Quality video like always 😊
Even if Jared is just sitting in the passenger seat, it still counts as going “Full Jared”
Never go “Full Jared”
Take the oil filer cap off..any water under ìt ..any water in oil on dipstick ..then I say just a bad leak..
Devin they have a kit for the 4b11 retread kit.
I've been watching for years, and this video rocks. Sorry bout the engine, but both of you talking s#it is the best. Evo down 👇. Crap. Rebuild
4B11t the best engine in the world 🌎 , you go Bobbie 🔥💯👌🏽
Tool cart is a game changer
Damn those aluminum blocks
devin's sense of humor is so funny
Don’t beat those to bad, I use to work for HFT and we went through 2 cause in a year or so cause the handles snapped off. That sucks that her evo went bad, but if anyone can do a crazy turn around on fixing it’s you.
So crazy how much I learn from you 🔥
get that guy a freaking Crown Vic and tell him to drive that!! he needs to stay away from nice cars...😂😂😂😂
Jared braking Evos is a meme at that point 😂
I think the problem is the weak Al block of the evoX’s… but the again you’re not suppose to run that much boost and pressure in an Al block
my main thought/concern is the block needed to be decked not just the head . with alotta boost its not a bad idea, a pain yes, but not a bad idea. if the car is going to be running all that power n boost it has to be pretty spot on to have a chance at running right much less for any amount of time , unless you just want a hard parker that flexes specs but blows chunks under a load. decks on the blakc an dhead must be perfect and use only the best studs and gaskets and well o ring the thing and whatever else. perhaps the best sleeves money can buy. I mean if this is her mona lisa where is the issue to make it perfect. (dolla dolla bill yall)
Using these studs on the stock cast block will have the same results a lot. It's because the cast blocks in the X are weak. I actually know a guy that machined out the bolt holes, n used a custom bolt with heavier, beefier threads in a stronger material n redistributed the load from these new pieces better around the cast aluminum. But is this a realistic method for most? No.. he runs machine shop so it's easy for him to experiment. Devon should spend the $10k on a billet block how cool would that be!! He could throw 80lbs at that thing n explode rods n the block would still survive lmao 🤣
honestly, pulled the stud out isnt from anything you did. it's just one of those things that randomly happen to some cars. those 625's are strong, it'll take a lot to stretch them. L19's are similar to 625's, same material and manu process. the 625's are just aged differently and the L19's just don't want to see moisture.
I think its best u pull it apart so that the head doesn't get damaged due to heat cycling
my evo 8 does the same thing
but no mixing have drove 35k like that still no issue's
Can you helicoil the block and put the head stud back in?
Time Cert my friend!! 🍻
All for the weekly shop mods! Makes me feel like I’m getting something new when I’m not 🤣
I have learned many things from.this channel but one thing for sure is that if i am gonna modify a sti or evo i need to buy 2 as they always seem to break down for all kinds a reasons.
they dont break down, american tuners push them too hard for HP clout!! In Australia all wrx and evos so reliable
Rebuilding the bobs Evo round 3
The way you said, bad news is fcuking bad, I almost spilled my cereal 🥣. But don’t worry Bobby Jared will fix it 😀😀
put the hks head gasket in it. only thing that worked for me. my car has seen 60 psi on a 7275 so far no issues. ive been through literally every other gasket there is.
i hope its a 2.0. if its a big bore 2.2 your gonna have to fire ring it or youll just blow gaskets over and over.
Dev again never underestimate your SKILL, as for the normal persons it cost another maybe $3k or more and another week's down...Anyway more blessings me G.
@Devin am Ben from Uganda 🇺🇬 you had plans of working on yours Bro's STI
Using the lift to help assemble the cart haha 🤙🏼
Good thing you are an evo expert and have the funds😂 I would break my evo too if I was like you.
Didn’t know you were in wa, that’s dope!!
Let's go Type R content coming soon I'm hype 🤌🏼😁
When righty tighty..... goes loosy goosey!
Devin any updates on the Evo IV bro?
Hell yeah using the lift to put the wheel on the cart.
Well thats one hell way to pissed bobby🥲🤦♂️
Bro Jared the evo menace
The studs are that good the block threads come out instead
Aren’t you using arp head studs?
24:18 is that a civic?
if you gotta pull head better instead some arp head studs if not already installed.
That tool cart needs lowering😂
Now I see why you deal with evos and subies, they're content farms bro xD. Don't take it the wrong way I still love em lol
You did it again Jared 🤣
Damn that suck! Time for rebuild v2 better and stronger than before.
Are you having the motor step decked at 800hp I would they seem to lift the heads easy
Bobby is pissed hahahahaha
This just mean is time for you make that 2nd VA STI Spicy !!!!🤭
Go for billet since youre going for high boost
This is just the name of the game, you gotta pay to play it and you either pay with time, money or both.
U two r fun,keep it going😅
You guys have a big bush fire around you??
Is that a type r I see in the parking lot next to the evo? 🙄
damn that sucks, after all that hard work 😔, but hey shit happens, you identified the problem, Like you say no sure way tell when it happened, if it was over torqued at some point, or faulty headbolt, might be exactly same scenario the previous owner had when the car was sold to you with the lifted head. Anyway Devin will build it bigger and better, Bobbi 🤗 you will just have wait bit longer, till Devin fixes it to beat him in his Camo Evo next time at the track 😁😋👍🔥
Just seen the title not the video yet and i'm like: Ah shit, here we go again. 😆😂 Poor Jared, he will actually believe he is hexed by now lol.
Edit: Bummer that this happened with Bob's Evo. Luckily it'll be fine and is still driveable.
Love the longer videos
gawt dang them tail lights
I bet Jarad was glad he wasn't driving this time or he would have heard about it forever !!!! :)
Time for 1/2inch head studs and a fire ringed block