Softwood Workbench VS Hardwood Workbench
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- Опубликовано: 4 сен 2024
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As a n engineer, physics geek, and occasional acoustics buff, you are dead on with your assumptions about the different "frequency response" of different types of wood. For the most part, any material's frequency response approximates simple band-pass filter. If the material and configuration are the same, (SWP and Hickory are both wood), but one is more dense, it will be more stiff, will transmit a higher frequency band of vibrations, will have a higher spring constant, would be more brittle... you get the idea, obviously. So it follows logically that the very low 'frequency' (interpolated from the pressure curve over the duration of the hammer's contact with the chisel) thud would be returned to your wrist/elbow, but not the higher frequency harmonics that would vibrate your wrist\elbow and cause that shitty nerve pain.
In fact, I'd be really interested if you used a hickory mallet on a SWP bench and got the best experience ever, as the hickory would be great at transferring your energy to the chisel, but the bench would absorb more of the energy, so it wouldn't get returned to your wrist/elbow.
PS, i love your videos, your personality, your artistic style, your communication style, and your shop. You are a great inspiration, and thank you for your hard work.
Wouldn't the dampening of energy mean you have to work harder to get the same result compared a harder surface. Like hammering a nail in a board on carpet compared to concrete (exaggerated but...)
@@adamtoth7474
I think the extra effort would be insignificant.
Roy Underhill (PBS Wood wright shop) said that hickory died out in Europe in an ice age, leaving them oak and ash for axe handles. Hickory handles in the US allowed us to make larger axe heads.
I have 10-yr old hickory floors. SYP would be cool, but it twists like crazy.
@@hjeffwallace Like it's cousin pecan it is a difficult wood that has a mind of it's own. It twists and warps of it's own accord. I am surprised that Jay found enough good clear reasonably behaved stock.
For a tabletop, I might expect that a sandwich of hardwood and softwood might have less of a vibration problem
because of the combination of frequencies of vibration might serve to cancel each other out, or at least have a
dampening effect.
I’ll pass up other channels covering the same topics to watch yours. Always straight forward explanations. Always well done.
My bench was built from laminated 2x4s, 2x6 stretchers, and 4x6 beams for legs, all Douglas Fir. About a 660 on the Janka scale. Southern Yellow Pine and Doug Fir are plenty hard and tough enough for a bench.
Your comments on hickory ring a bell. We studied the characteristics of various domestic wood species very exhaustively at Eastern Kentucky University. Hickory takes a lot of abuse, hence its use in baseball bats and handles., it does transmit a lot of that force back instead of absorbing it. One of our professors had made a gun stock out of hickory for a 50 caliber black powder long rifle.
No one would fire it more than once. Walnut on the on the other hand absorbs shock well. Mark Kelter's comments below are dead on point.
When I worked a lumber jack the hickory handles on axes and hammers would wear you out. Great for shovels, but for axes I liked oak.
One of the most helpful videos on workbenches, it's definitely answered the questions in my head regarding which timber to use! I especially like the fact you've made the video after using both of them a while. Great work
Jay here are some tips.
1. You can stand the brass head of the wonder dog on end for clamping thicker materials.
2. Lee Valley also carry brass "pups". These are shorter, by roughly half, than their bench dogs.
3. With round holes, it is common to file or re-bore after the first year. By that time, most of the extreme moving tends to have stopped. Since all wooden tops move over time, that movement also happens within the dog holes. Not only increasing and shrinking in diameter, but also in skewing out of straight. That is why traditionally the dogs where made slightly undersized and then sprung (a spring added). This allowed the hole to move and the dog to maintain a similar tightness of fit.
4. Paste Wax - the wood workers best friend and secrete weapon. Apply a THIN coat of this on your dogs and they will move more easily without becoming sloppy. It will allow your drill bits to cut smoother, cleaner and with less heat. It helps reduce surface rusting, and helps material glide over working surfaces. A one pound can typically lasts 1-3 years depending upon how busy the shop is. I leave my rag inside the can so it is always at hand and in an airtight container when not in use. Drilling, planing, or sawing it is the first and last thing that touches my tools, and has made them a joy to use.
Thank you Michael!
I started using paste wax in the manner you described and got excellent results. ^5
Skippy Lippy , glad the advice helped. I learned that trick from my Grandfather over 4o years ago, and still surprised by how few know or teach it.
Regarding the wonder dogs, it looks like there are holes in the brass head that could be used to screw on a piece of wood to act as a pad for thicker material clamping. Hard to tell from the video, but are those through holes?
@@slyrhyno - Yes the wonder dogs & wonder pups both have through holes to screw any shape or size of wood (like concave pieces of wood to clamp radiuses) that would increase the effectiveness of the clamping ability. They are excellent clamps/dogs.
I need to start doing the paste wax thing, the place I have been as a shop is a bit damp so everything rusts quickly.
Thank you so much for this. I recently built your WorkHorse and am quite happy with it, but looking to do version 2 with traditional workholding and a slightly lower top to make planing easier for me, and seeing this helped me decide what materials to use :)
The resins in Southern Yellow Pine will continue to harden and in about 10 years it will be hard as a rock. I know that in house trusses made of it, after 10 to 15 years you cannot hardly drive a nail into it.
Yeah it was used a lot for trim work in older houses in my area. You can't even put a nail in the stuff without predrilling. Always bothered me when people want to replace it. I usually say something like, "It takes most wood twenty years to look that good..." In the end I guess I didnt mind the supply of old southern yellow pine.
Jay, your comment on the pine absorbing the chiseling force better than the hickory is interesting, and makes sense.
I'd never considered that, but that's a big factor in hand tool work.
I think you've sold me on using big box S/P/F. Thanks man!
Alan R what he is saying is completely explainable by physics.
Or by Roy: www.pbs.org/video/the-woodwrights-shop-hurray-for-hickory/
Alan R ...agreed. like playing basketball on a wood floor versus concrete. Your knees, like your hands, are less worn from the hard surfaces. Great that you pointed out that fact. Keep up the good work.
SYP (southern yellow pine) will be different than SPF (spruce, pine, fir). The rationale may still hold when comparing to hardwoods such as hickory, but just consider that SYP is denser and stronger than most of the "Whitewood" (SPF) you'll find at home centers.
What's going on
Love that you still have both
Jay the hickory is a real looker and as far as the tool well, i agree with you- its a must have as i just built one for my bench.
I just got done building a pine 2x4 bench and am scared to make a mark or a stain on it because it took so long and hard work to make.
Not too neurotic. I should just drill a hole in it and be done with it.
lol I love that solution. I'm a little neurotic as well... was freaking out about street parking a leased car until someone final put a tiny scratch in my rear bumper. after I got over that I was fine!
The more scratches it gets the more you will love your workbench, it will age and any knick will give it character.
@@manmadediy6972 my best advice is to spill some used auto oil on it, makes it dirty and used looking so u won't feel bad scuffing it up, and u help seal the wood
Yeah, drill a single small hole in the exact center. That way, the hole will serve the purpose of marking the dead center of your workspace and getting you over the "Brand New Car" carefulness you are experiencing. ...I just saw that your post was from 10 months ago so I am sure you've adjusted by now. When the bench starts looking too shitty, just belt sand yourself a brand new surface.
@@nickkk420 no offense, but that is terrible advice unless you happen to like the smell and lingering mess of used motor oil.
Thank you very much for this vid. I’ve been battling the “wood type” question for a while. Aside from the tools needed to build my work bench it will be the first thing I make. With low income towards projects I’ve been waiting and saving for what could be an unnecessarily expensive build(relative expense).
Choose a wood that’s readily available, reasonably hard, and inexpensive. There’s no need to create a bench from hard maple and definitely not from hickory. The Janka hardness of hickory is such that the resonant feedback when hammered will ring back like when you’re not holding a baseball bat well enough. Douglas fir or southern yellow pine, depending on which part of the country you’re from, are available from big box stores. Don’t buy 2x4 lumber. Instead buy 2x8x16’ and cut to size. The mills save the best runs of wood (less knots) for long pieces. Cut them to 8’ at the box store if that’s an option.
Thanks so much. Not may woodworkers have an opportunity to compare the same design side by side. I've been using hand-made dowel dogs with bullet catches for years ("until I could afford the nice ones"- never needed to upgrade). I have a Veritas Wonder Dog too and love it. If you attach a small block of softwood to it's face, it won't mar the edge of your board. Wonder Dog does interfere with planing thin stock. Wooden dowel dogs will never mar the face of your plane if you accidentally strike one.
This kind of motivated me to want to get back to work on my bench. At first I was really not wanting to go with pine, but for the price, and the ease of work it is absolutely worth it and it really doesn't look bad either. I really didn't think of the shock absorbing factor with using a softwood. I'm really glad now that I didn't dish out lots of money for a hardwood alternative. Great video Jay!
Hickory is very bouncy indeed. That and the fact that it is rather durable is why it's used for drumsticks commonly.
It looks like the thread per inch are finer on the pine vise. That will give you more pull causing more flex than a coarser thread would. A little.
Jay, the reason I love your videos so much is that you are such a great teacher. even your reviews cover every angle.
I think I love them both!!!!!!!
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Jay that vibration "feeling" in your hands is some swelling in the carpal-tunnel of your wrist. tissues swell and compress the nerves in the carpal-tunnel causing that odd vibration feeling in your thumbs and pointer fingers and half-way thorough the middle finger (if I recall correctly). if you cause those tissues to swell to often you can get tingling in those digits lose dexterity and grip. then you will need surgery to fix.
soak wrists in cold water to reduce swelling as soon as you notice that feeling helps, but not always.
This was really helpful. Thank you. I don’t have a tool well, but I will be putting one on my bench - for exactly the reasons you mentioned. Thanks again.
Might help to cut squares from one of those gym rubber tiles and place them under the legs to absorb some of the vibrations..
Thanks Jay for comparing your two workbenches. I found your observations very helpful as I design my workbench.
Don! What did you end up going with?
@@buffalojones341 that’s admittedly one of my unfinished projects. It’s one that I need the get back to but things other than woodworking keep getting in the way. Whenever I get back to it the top, a large butcher block of rubber wood needs to be attached to my Douglas fur base. That’s where I left it. I even have the vices that are ready for me to attach too.
@@wb_finewoodworking right on. Make a video of it when you do 🙂
I like that you waited and used both workbenches for a considerable amount of time before recording this video. I feel that this experiment will help many of us as we make workbenches in the future. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us Jay!
you're welcome. Thanks.
Thank for the comparison! I just slapped together a workbench from odd bits. Formica top, oak kitchen cabinets, legs & casters from an AV cart. I work at Lowe’s, but decided to build stuff with no trip to the store.
the rag box on the shelf behind you looks like Cinderella
I like the taping on the dogs to use them... out of the way but readily available
Well, you convinced me to build my next bench our of yellow pine or fir. I've been curious about user's real world experience with pine.
I will be building a work bench soon. Your build videos and this review will save me a lot of guesswork. Thanks for all the effort you put into your channel. It's much appreciated!
How did it go?
Hey used a theater grid and that Oak wow that hurt that was like swinging on metal also the difference between what you want to do with for your next bench and what I would do is I would go ahead and use Beach on the two strips where I was going to put my dogs but the remainder would be Douglas fir accepting a course for the leg vise
I realize this is a few years old, but thanks for some good information for my upcoming workbench
I agree 100% to the existence of the tool well.
Thank you for the presentation
I built the pine version love it. Still have to do the chop and dog holes. Thankyou for your ideas and your videos.☺☺☺☺☺
Noknees Looney will you be using hardwood for your chop?
Yes purple heart😁😁😁😁
Very awesome video, lots of information.. And the shop towel box in the background looks like a Disney princess on my phone
Shaun Kennedy hahaha it totally does. Frozen songs just invaded my brain :|
Yup, the whole video I just heard let it go and wanna build a snow man
Ha! Just noticed that! That’s great!
Haha I can't unsee that now
The handtool wall is growing! Great pointers!
Very useful, thank you for the honesty.
Soft bench w/ hard chop... Got it. Thanks for the recommendation from someone with a great deal more experience than I.
Now convinced to add a tool well to my bench. Thanks
Well I can see by all the comments you hit the nail on the head with this video. I have been thinking and wanting to build a work bench. I have a top that was given to me that is over 70 years old have a tree (really). I just moved to TX and need to build a new base for it. The main reason for wanting a new bench is dog holes and vises. The old one only has one vise and while it does work it not my favorite. I to have purchased some hold-fast from Gramercy Tools they are great. Living in TX I have been trying to figure out what Pine is used in HD or Lowes, Lowes seems to have whitepine not sure if this is the same as yellow pine. I would love to find a site that explains the different species of pine and how they differ. I also enjoyed the advice of some of the folks who suggested paste wax, I have found that it works great on so many things and protects my tools as well. Thank you for your service as well. I spent 10 years in the USN. As I am nearing retirement I am hoping to be able to continue my woodworking in the my later years. It is a joy to be able to continue to learn new trades. Times have changed again and young people are once again being afforded the opportunity to learn a trade and the need to fill the jobs has once again open up. There are times when I wish those chances were around when I was young, I was told go to school and get an education. While it is important to have an education, it also important to be able to do what you enjoy, learning should not always be forced on us. You should want to learn as you will put more of an effort into what you learn. Sorry waffling again. Thanks Jay..
Thanks for the video! I am entering the worm hole of building my second bench. My first being a simple laminated plywood style bench. While anything will be an improvement at this point. I only want to make it one more time.
Those red wing handles though. Awesome
Thx for the comparison of the benches.
Great review Jay Yellow Pine I chose
I planning to build a new bench out of popular. I bought a bunch for a job and it fell through. This video was very helpful to me. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Good info! I was planning on building a pine bench & picked up a 10/4 piece of pecan for the chop 😃. Good to know I’m headed in the right direction 👍🏻
David Peters I’m actually not getting my pine ( or pecan 😉) from a store (I’ve found a local sawyer) so that’s probably a better reason to check the mc. I usually give any wood, that i plan to build anything from, at least 2-3 weeks in my shop before any cuts are made. Most of the time it’s usually 2-3 months sitting in my in-house storage area before i begin a project.
I really don’t like doing the same step multiple times because of humidity. I too live in Mississippi and wood movement is always a factor when our relative humidity lingers around 100% whether it’s raining or not 😂
I love your personal reviews of shop products you have bought or built.. I have watched your videos for years and I have learned a lot from each of them
Jay, you might try some vibration isolating material under the legs of the Hickory workbench. i use to use it to isolate and absorb pump vibration from the building structure. If your shop floor is concrete it should dampen some of the energy when you are working at the table. The black rubber waffle material used for this purpose is rather inexpensive. Not sure where you can get it in your area, but anybody that does commercial air conditioning work can get some or tell you where to get it. Thanks for the tips on building a good workbench--much appreciated.
Thanks for the review Jay. Been waiting to hear how the SYP compared. I will be doing a doug fir bench this fall.
Great comparison! Thanks for sharing
Nice video Jay. Your knowing and comments will help me build my own workbench. Merci.
I will mount the top of the bin down 3/4" and make a cover that is even with top of bench... Increasing work surface if needed. Great video
I thought that same thing at first but then the cover would get in the way and reduce the ease and simplicity of removing or retrieving commonly used tools. The lack of a cover also you gives the ability to drill thru holes without the need for cribbing or a sacrificial piece of wood.
.... and leaving the top on all the time because tool pools are just messy.🤣
Great video. My problem is that my workbench is used for everything from sanding, routing, hand planing and chiseling but also pouring resin and rebuilding motorcycle engines. The top is totally abused. I’ve always wanted to build a nice hardwood workbench but would be afraid to use it.
Great review Jay. Helped me understand that there is no reason to believe you are giving up something by going the SYP route and that is going to be my choice.
In cycling that hand feeling is called "road buzz" and I knew exactly what you were talking about as soon as you mentioned it.
Hey Jay I'm bout to build a new work bench for hand tool woodwork, I noticed ur don't have any casters on those work benches, I got some 3 " casters all with foot breaks, do u recommend leaving em off ?THANX FOR UR VIDEOS !!!!!
WRT the hardwood resonance/kickback, I'd suggest adding a sheet of a bituminous damping material (Dynamat, or similar) to the underside of the worktop. A single sheet that fits between the dog holes & legs would probably make the bench much more pleasant to work on for extended periods. Another idea to try would be to put a thin layer of cork or linoleum under the feet - a single cork/lino flooring tile would provide enough for all four. Either/both would add dampening of the resonance that causes the "springy" feeling.
Just a thought (& probably too late a thought considering the age of the vid)...
Another great comparison after use with lots of info.
I built my bench with an oak frame and a removable pine top and skirt (I wasn't sure how long it would last) specifically because it's soft. I'd rather my bench top ding than the project piece should it drop or fall. I figured if the dog holes wallow out, I could fill them in and redrill. After almost four years of almost daily use, two of my most commonly used dog holes have deformed, but they still work fine. Even with wooden dogs, no problems yet. I did also notice a shock difference, the pine is much less reactive.
I might explore the idea of using multiple species on the work surface after seeing this video. In an effort to get the best of both woods..
How much did the Hickory bench cost? I price it to be more than 2000 dollars just for the lumber
I wonder if a hickory bench with pine legs would give you the best of both? The legs would absorb some of the excess energy, but the table would transfer more energy to the piece you are working on.
I need a stump for my anvil, wasn’t concerned about the species but after this I think I’ll look for a big hickory, might get some more bounce.
So far I have two tables in my shop, a general use workbench (built before I got into woodworking more) and just built a table saw extension / assembly table. My wife already gives me grief about the two tables, but my next table is going to be a fir workbench, similar to yours. I appreciate you giving your experience with either workbench, and I just thoroughly enjoy all your content!
nathancd bet she has more than one purse.
I am not a fan of Douglas Fir for a workbench. You must be careful when choosing your boards as this wood has sharp contract between soft and hard grains making it tricky to sand smooth. It also has a tenancy to splinter at grain boundaries and has given me some of the nastiest injuries. Other opinions??
The hickory leg vise is fucking gorgeous. Thanks for your insight
Maybe cork board matt for impact absorption when using chisels?
Thanks for your thoughts, Your right man , hickory boards are hard as a rock. Useing wood that weighs 50lbs a cubic ft DRY!, Ensures That bench will last forever.
Ain't nobody going to walk off with that bench
@@justinp.9953 And if they do, I'd say they deserve it... I certainly don't want to fight a man who can carry that bench!
I see your W.. Dogs hold upside down, but just another thought on storage. I have drilled 3/4 holes in the 'none' chop leg and store both the W Dogs and my hold fasts horizontally
Thanks for the info Jay! 👍👊
The property you describe is what Blacksmiths call rebound. The softer, more flexible material absorbs more energy from the strike so it has less rebound. You may find you get more work done faster with chisels on the hard bench but you can see, there is a price since you don't have long tongs to hold your work like a blacksmith.
Soft pine or fir are the preferred wood for japanese woodworking bench tops . They in fact mention really like Douglas fir if they can get it,
8:05 it's a clutter catcher? as in, people who are unorganized find it too convenient to toss things in there and not keep it organized. It would be a pretty convenient place to drive out some holes to stick chisels in also
Many good tool handles are made from hickory (axes, mauls, hammers) basically any tool that you swing. The reason is that the hickory will flex a little and absorb the impact from the tool (large impact that is). As for extended chiseling, the hardness of the hickory works against you in that it doesn't absorb enough of the tiny impacts from a chisel and mallet.
Thank you for your well thought out video. You gave me some much needed information. I would like to add couple of personal observations. Instead of a tool well on the bench l love my small Rubbermaid push cart. I load it up with the tools I need for each job and roll it over to my bench or the other power equipment. It’s very handy to have the tools “mobile”.Your scaffold screw idea for the vice is brilliant! Your thoughts on the properties of the different woods you used gives much food for thought. Here in the northwest we mainly get Douglas fir and hemlock as our “cheap” lumber. Hemlock is noticeably harder than the fir. I was afraid of making a softwood bench but now I think that hemlock just might do the trick. With a nice hardwood vice jaw..... People like you make tube addictive. Thanks again.
11:11 anyone else think Jay should have had the old fisher price hammer that came with the carpenter table that you pounded the dowels through the table with?
Dakota Disaster you mean FP didn’t make the brass mallet?
Especially if it squeaks!
WoW, you provided one of the best explanations with your articulation of long vibration feed back. Yes, your joints and even your brain will replay/reverberate the the hundreds/thousands of vibrations well after the initiation period. Great vid.
no end vise? i agree that it is a secondary vise, but with your dog hole pattern, for longer stock, it looks like you need an end vise.
You need Amazon affiliate links for the tools you are showing in this, the bench dogs for example. Some people might want to buy the things.
I'm kinda new to wood working... well 7th-9th grade wood shop veteran. LOL. i am planning a workbench for my garage. I wonder if I should do a cheap and dirty build then go back and build a real solid one.
Jay, FYI: Your hickory workbench vise seems stronger and faster because the threads on the vise are stronger and coarser than the threads on the southern yellow pine workbench !!! You are closing the the vise about 2X faster and the type of thread has much more power and leverage !!! The hardwood probably does have more rigidity, but is probably negligible compared to the other two factors !!!
I've watched way to many bench videos but want to make one . You've showed and talked me into this bench. I am getting your plan . I just ordered. I don't have all the power tools so will be trying it by hand. thanks for your work and sharing.
This is great info!!! I'm going to be building a bench soon, and I'll be using pine.
I'm thinking to build the bench out of pine as well for the reasons you stated. But... I had 2 major modifications in mind. I think, i would like to have ability to attach the top layer. Like some 22mm plywood or something (still thinking is that a good idea). And the second one is that I want to use workbench from booth sides. Like... to put in the middle of small workshop. And to make it easy movable. Because, sometimes its easier to work from the left side, and sometimes from the right side. Also thinking to make it wider, like 1m or so. Ah... and also, i want it to be compatible with some portable sander, drill table, bend saw, planer, router etc. So that i can attach them to the sides or the end when i need extra surface. Because i have really small compact place to make my hobby workshop ATM. I need a lot of flexibility.
Yes! Softwood has much more give and just feels better! You are also less worried about marring your workpiece. It just doesn't look as "professional" I suppose. For me it's always a no brainer finding some old house salvage studs for a nice bench. New soft wood is actually much softer, so that has advantages. But older spruce/Douglas fir from 50s bungalow always make amazing tops.
I've worked on oak, hickory, and maple workbenches. They all have the problem of feeling like you've been holding a chainsaw all day in your chisel hand and wrist.
Thank you for this incredibly helpful video! I have been debating on making my entire bench out of Douglas Fir, and it's really nice to be able to see the pros and cons of softwood vs hardwood. This makes me feel way more confident about my choice.
Some great ideas, Jay. And a very thoughtful review. I relate to many of your observations, especially the tool well.
Thanks for this video I've been debating this.
Wicked thanks man, I've had this thought a few times
Thanks for the comparison.. I'm making a bench soon and was debating soft over hard.. Thinking soft because of the price but now I see the benefits.. Thanks.
Jay, total rookie question:
Would it be blasphemous to use a good hardwood top and route dovetail grooves to use a Micro Jig system along with the bench dogs?
Hi Jay, I really liked this presentation on the benefits and cons of both work benches. Thanks for taking the time to make the content and share. I for one really appreciated it. Thank you Jay. All the best from North London UK.👍
Hickory is one of the strongest, hardest and most-dense hardwoods. Hickory is used for applications that require sheer strength and high shock resistance, so no wonder it gives that feeling in your chisel hand after a long session. I wonder how Oak or Maple compares, I bet it's far better.
Maple is my fav wood. I have always wanted a solid hard maple bench top for a very long time. I wonder how it would compare to pine.
Thanks. Would be nice if you print the names of the dogs, vise screws, etc so we can look them up.
I always follow and try to learn more with your projects. Thank you.
Ok i just have to let you and all your viewers know. The correct word for that reverberation that you are talking about is "Stagganize". My brother when he was like 5 years old just made up the word when he hit a pole with a metal bat. He is 45 years old now and we still use the word when talking about the feeling you described. So feel free to use it. When ever you feel that feeling you where "Stagganized"....lol
Would it make sense to build the pine but use a hardwood for the sections you drill for dogs to prevent the "wallowing" you might get from pine? Great vid. thanks
That is exactly what I’m considering on building. SYP for most of the bench, and red oak on 2-3 edge boards on each side, and oak tool well. Put the dog holes in the oak, pine will be absorbing impacts. Haven’t settled on leg vice plan. I was considering a hardwood leg, with a rebate on the top clamping surface where I can place a sacrificial softwood. If anyone has done something similar, I’d like to hear some feedback. The compressibility of pine in the vice seems like a good idea to get a good hold without running the risk of denting your work.
I like a softwood workbench top, but I can tell you that I've never had one that didn't move a lot (all at least 3" thick, and face-laminated). All of mine have been southern yellow pine. So, be forewarned. A few have been in fully air-conditioned and heated shops, others in garage and shed shops with no a/c and only sporadic heating when the shop was in use. No matter, they still moved, often enough not to be at all reliable as a reference flat surface. If you go this route, I strongly recommend a low plywood assembly/set-up table that you can trust to level legs, etc. -- three or four layers of decent 3/4" plywood for the top, with a top layer of tempered hardboard.
"Clutter Catcher", that's how I feel about it. I'm building my first Roubo Style Work Bench right now and I plan to add the tool well and add the spacer like you have for holding chisels and such upright as I work .
Great video
Great Info. TY! subscribed