Great video thanks for posting, did this just today on my RV, was so perfect to watch and go do the work. Plus had to back up the vid and watch to make sure I was doing it correctly. window is back in action.
Helpful Tips: If Window Switch operates in reverse with an aftermarket window regulator (meaning press up button & window goes down or vice versa) = Switch the two female wires within wire coupler (6:20). Also, if you're using 1/4 in - 20 x 1/2 in stainless steel bolts, with nylon lock nuts instead of rivets, it helps to remove the speaker, so you can get behind the bolts with wrench to tighten some of them.
Hello and thanks for the video and the tips. I took apart the driver's side panel due to manual crank malfunction, and found a bare steel cable. It is about as thin as uncooked spaghetti. It seems to be inside the vertical track when I pull the window up with my weakening thumb and forefinger, and it seems to go down below the 2 bottom rivets holding the lower end of the track. I don't know what this bare cable does, and I cannot get the window to go all the way up even with slight force. I lubed the window track fore and aft, but still cannot get the hand-crank to budge. Any suggestions?
Very good easy to follow along video. One of the problems i have with something like this is not actually being able to see what im working on which makes me overthink the problem because i cant disect it to understand the mechanics of it. In the past i would search for junk parts vehicles which usually under two hundred bucks and take that vehicle apart and whatever it was such as doors iwould cut apart so i could physically see what the part looked like still intact but in that case it led to an obsession. Ive had close to about fifty to sixty 73 to79 f series pickups over the years to not only work them but to work on them. There was always a rot box or two around just to learn about them. Not so fortunate nowadays politics dictating what you can or cannot do on your own property or property you rent but that being said thanks for the video
Thanks! Now - anybody got any ideas about where I can find a Captains Chair for the passenger side? 2006 e350. Hunted the internet for a while to no avail!
I just bought a 2013 Ford E350 passenger van.It came with no power accessories. OK. I find the driver door window crtank is about ankle level and can't be used while belted. It is almost necessary to crack the door to use it. Are there any modifications to make it more accessible? drive ups will be nasty in January like this. Any ideas?
I have a broken glass with working original regulator, where do the regulator cables attach to the window glass mount to up/down aluminum frame you just had?
Where does the cable connect on the window? We have 2004 e350 van that the window just slowly went down. We can only pull/push it half way up and it stops.
I believe I have everything taken apart but I cannot get the top two studs in the oval holes to come out there's a lot of pressure there to get them to come out
@@peterdeeble5381 I'm trying to remember but try dropping the window down some while you're trying to get that out I think the problem was I had the window up all the way once I brought the window down it came out easier I think
I got all the rivets removed and the nuts at the top. But I can’t get the window regulator out. It seems like I need to push those bolts at the top back until they slip through the frame, but I can’t push them back hard enough to free them. is there something I’m missing?
I figured it out. I needed to remove the rivets that held the glass in place. Which required figuring out how to lower the window. I got it all sorted out though. Thank you so much!
@@jessicalastname6865 The TRACK is glued to the glass. The regulator is RIVETED to the track. By removing those rivets you can then remove the regulator. The actual Track will not be coming off the glass.
Kinda like watching a silent movie. Way before anybody's time. I like informative videos that have some entertainment value. The video is too much to the point. Slow down, do more pointing, have some ambient background sound. Even though some things are "self explanatory", it's more assuring to be redundant and explain things as if you are talking to a six year old. This video doesn't really save anyone's time as one may have to watch it two or three times to get it. Teaching, along with production and entertainment, are essential for building an audience.
I have a 2003 ford E-250 and the window fell down and won’t go back up, even if I manually try to lift up with my hand. The window appears to be hitting on something. It may be the motor but I’m trying to get the window up and secure the vehicle until I can replace it. Any suggestions?
@@bobbyvilla2332 The cables come with the new regulator. AND if you can's tell the electrical cable from the metal cable on the regulator please do not try this yourself. Pay someone to do it.
The add on overlay kits are available online BUT, they are not fast and wear out quickly. You are adding an additional motor/regulator OVER the existing hand crank cable regulator in the door now. BEST would be change the entire regulator with a OEM, FORD, Motor/regulator assembly. You will need to add aftermarket switches and wiring.
@@PowerUpAuto I am perfectly capable, I have all the tools, you just left out some key steps like the bottom rivets that I had to raise and lower the window to drill them., I've got it now.
How do I get the window to release from silicone black plate that holds the windows in place they have rivots in the black plate that's connected to the long metal bar
You need to drill out the rivets. Knock out the center point of the rivet (the mandrel) and then you should be able to use a 1/4" drill bit to drill off the rivets.@@MJGMA
@PowerUpAuto now the O2 sensors tomorrow I am 54 young female and have been remodeling houses fixing cars most of my life by myself I am my dads daughter and son he wished for lol I have 3 other siblings 1 older sister 1 older brother 1 younger brother though lol thanks for your help those rivets were a bi@#; lol
Phillips screwdriver. But you will need a 1/4” regulator tool. You could also use 1/4” nuts and bolts to reinstall the regulator. Check out the video and please ask if you have any other questions.
Ok this guy is legit. I ordered the window regulator for my Ford e150 he said I needed. Delivered a couple days. Installed and I'm a happy. Thank you thank you.
"There's a center point to the rivet. You're gonna bang out the mandrel [rivet pin], the center point, and then you're gonna drill out the rivet." Easier said than done! Especially the one on the R-side for the window bracket where you've got a 2" hole to work in. If the pin won't bang out and you're forced to drill it, be prepared for a lesson in frustration. Also, the only way to get my regulator assembly out of the door cavity was through the speaker hole. 2008 Ford E350 passenger van.
I can't get it out thru the speaker hole. Should come out with minimal work thru the main opening. The center point of the rivet (the mandrel) WILL punch out. Might need a bit of power and along awl/punch. Option B, drive down to Tampa FL and I can do it.
@@PowerUpAuto I got all the rivets out it's just that 1 was a real PIA. I tried taking the assembly out the main opening but it was much easier through the speaker hole.
Yeah, on the one I filmed there were nuts & bolts. To remove the rivets punch out the center point of the rivet (the steel mandrel) and then drill off the aluminum rivets with a 1/4" drill bit
Thank you for this great video! For me getting the rivets out was one of the easiest parts with a hammer and punch. It took me longer to get all the replacement bolts in just because it’s a tight squeeze in that door compartment. I was slower than molasses in January but I got it done! Thanks again!
@@PowerUpAuto thanks for the instructions, I started to work on the passenger side window of my e150 2003, all fastener were rivets and I had the hardest time to remove them (drill, grinder, chisel and hammer, combo of all). After hours I was able to remove most of them except for the 3rd one by the speaker. Looking inside the door noticed the glass is glued to a piece of metal that is fastened with rivets to the crossbar that goes up and down. Any advice on how to safely remove those rivets without damaging the glass? Or does that metal plate gets snapped into the vertical bar? (it's attached to the vertical bar on both sides with plastic clips).
@@beaalvarez9714 Easier than it seems. First punch out the mandrel (the center point of the rivet) with a hammer and punch. Should bang out pretty easy. Then its simple to drill out the rivets using a sharp 1/4 " drill bit. The only time you might not want to punch out the center point is if the glass is Laminated (yours should be tempered).
Very confusing do you require a riveting tool and if so where do you buy them. I am completely confused by this video you don’t explain in anyway what the rivetingtool is for.
The regulator is held in with rivetss. Marson Big Daddy rivet tool. About $100 on line. AND you will need 1/4" regulator rivets. You can do this with 1/4" nuts and bolts but it is more work.
I just did this. I had to replace the whole door because someone popped the lock and damaged the lock hole. 2002 door is DIFFERENT than 2006 at where the mirror mounts. A lot of modification to make fit. I had no guts to punch the center pins of the 2 rivets on bracket holding the glass. There is no back support on the bracket and I did not want to shatter the glass. I did it by grinding and drilling and there is no easy access to one rivet. WHAT A PAIN. Ford, I hate u.
I've had to dremel the rivets off sometimes. Only times I have damages the glass was knocking the center point (mandrel) of the rivet out on LAMINATED glass. Specifically Lincoln Aviator
Video is too heavily edited, doesn't show step-by-step directions, and it's not even reality, since rivets and not nuts and bolts are what held everything in place, and rivets are harder to remove than simply screwing and un-screwing nuts and bolts
I did mention there were usually rivets that needed to be drilled out. And I did replace the bolts with rivets. And it's not edited. Thanks for the feedback though.
Great video thanks for posting, did this just today on my RV, was so perfect to watch and go do the work. Plus had to back up the vid and watch to make sure I was doing it correctly. window is back in action.
Glad it helped!
Straight to the point, need more of him
Helpful Tips:
If Window Switch operates in reverse with an aftermarket window regulator (meaning press up button & window goes down or vice versa) = Switch the two female wires within wire coupler (6:20).
Also, if you're using 1/4 in - 20 x 1/2 in stainless steel bolts, with nylon lock nuts instead of rivets, it helps to remove the speaker, so you can get behind the bolts with wrench to tighten some of them.
Thank you for one of the most thorough and specific teaching
Thanks guys, replaced drivers side window regulator, saved $250!!
Well done
Awesome video, super helpful and the fast forward was a great idea
Glad to hear it!
Great video, perfect description for entire job. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much. Worked like a charm.
You're welcome!
Very nice video,,, no bullcrap ,, just facts of what you need and how to do it... Very well done... thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video. Thanks
Thank this was a big help had to do the slider doo latch took apart two to make one work. This is great
Glad it helped
Hello and thanks for the video and the tips. I took apart the driver's side panel due to manual crank malfunction, and found a bare steel cable. It is about as thin as uncooked spaghetti. It seems to be inside the vertical track when I pull the window up with my weakening thumb and forefinger, and it seems to go down below the 2 bottom rivets holding the lower end of the track. I don't know what this bare cable does, and I cannot get the window to go all the way up even with slight force. I lubed the window track fore and aft, but still cannot get the hand-crank to budge. Any suggestions?
Thank You for the video
Can the same procedure be used replacing a crank window in used door to make it a power window
Great job! Best video yet!
Mine unfortunately is a 92 and you cant get your hand tgrough to tighte the bolt on th bottom right
Very good easy to follow along video. One of the problems i have with something like this is not actually being able to see what im working on which makes me overthink the problem because i cant disect it to understand the mechanics of it. In the past i would search for junk parts vehicles which usually under two hundred bucks and take that vehicle apart and whatever it was such as doors iwould cut apart so i could physically see what the part looked like still intact but in that case it led to an obsession. Ive had close to about fifty to sixty 73 to79 f series pickups over the years to not only work them but to work on them. There was always a rot box or two around just to learn about them. Not so fortunate nowadays politics dictating what you can or cannot do on your own property or property you rent but that being said thanks for the video
Thanks!
Now - anybody got any ideas about where I can find a Captains Chair for the passenger side? 2006 e350. Hunted the internet for a while to no avail!
I just bought a 2013 Ford E350 passenger van.It came with no power accessories. OK.
I find the driver door window crtank is about ankle level and can't be used while belted. It is almost necessary to crack the door to use it.
Are there any modifications to make it more accessible? drive ups will be nasty in January like this.
Any ideas?
Yopu will probably need to change the window regulator, even the hand crank is a cable regulator
Thanks, very helpful bideo
Glad it was helpful!
I have a broken glass with working original regulator, where do the regulator cables attach to the window glass mount to up/down aluminum frame you just had?
There is a bracket that is riveted to the bracket on the glass. If the cables are loose you will need to replace the regulator assembly
Where does the cable connect on the window? We have 2004 e350 van that the window just slowly went down. We can only pull/push it half way up and it stops.
You need to replace the window regulator. Watch the video again.
That was cool do have any videos to replace the drivers door the wires is there plug in thank you
Not yet
How do you get the window glass to stay up while taking out the regulator?
suction cup or tape
what i’f the track bolts don line up so you ever have to drill new holes
You need a different regulator. The holes MUST line up. Something is amiss.
Can you use the same regulator for the other door or are they different.
no, they are all different
I may have to do this on my van. Awesome video,, thank you
Go for it!
I know I'm kinda off topic but does anybody know a good place to watch new series online ?
@Sonny Magnus Flixportal :D
@Franklin Ronan thank you, signed up and it seems like a nice service :) Appreciate it !!
@Sonny Magnus You are welcome =)
I believe I have everything taken apart but I cannot get the top two studs in the oval holes to come out there's a lot of pressure there to get them to come out
Yes, I’m having that exact same problem
@@peterdeeble5381 I'm trying to remember but try dropping the window down some while you're trying to get that out I think the problem was I had the window up all the way once I brought the window down it came out easier I think
I got all the rivets removed and the nuts at the top. But I can’t get the window regulator out. It seems like I need to push those bolts at the top back until they slip through the frame, but I can’t push them back hard enough to free them. is there something I’m missing?
If needed you can remove the glass but i've been able to get the reg out without doing that.
I figured it out. I needed to remove the rivets that held the glass in place. Which required figuring out how to lower the window. I got it all sorted out though. Thank you so much!
Thanks a lot!! Im a woman and thanks to you i make it happen!! God bless you!😅
I have 2006 e150 and windows won't work . Fuses are good and tried replacing switch and still doesn't work, what do I do next?
Change the motor/regulator assembly. Video instructions above
I do have a question, the old track seems to be glued to the glass, . On video old track is just pulled out??
I must have missed something
@@jessicalastname6865 The TRACK is glued to the glass. The regulator is RIVETED to the track. By removing those rivets you can then remove the regulator. The actual Track will not be coming off the glass.
Kinda like watching a silent movie. Way before anybody's time. I like informative videos that have some entertainment value. The video is too much to the point. Slow down, do more pointing, have some ambient background sound. Even though some things are "self explanatory", it's more assuring to be redundant and explain things as if you are talking to a six year old. This video doesn't really save anyone's time as one may have to watch it two or three times to get it. Teaching, along with production and entertainment, are essential for building an audience.
Do you have to revit the window regulator back in?
If possible its easiest and best but you could use 1/4" nuts and bolts with a little bit of effort
I have a 2003 ford E-250 and the window fell down and won’t go back up, even if I manually try to lift up with my hand. The window appears to be hitting on something. It may be the motor but I’m trying to get the window up and secure the vehicle until I can replace it. Any suggestions?
If you get the door panel off you can cut any of the cables (not the electrical cables) and then lift the glass up
@@PowerUpAuto cut the cables? Won’t I need those cables? How do I know it’s not an electrical cable?
@@bobbyvilla2332 The cables come with the new regulator. AND if you can's tell the electrical cable from the metal cable on the regulator please do not try this yourself. Pay someone to do it.
what is the make model and # of the rivet tool your using?
Marson Big Daddy
@@PowerUpAuto thanx
How do you drop the window down when it's all the way up to get to the (2) top rivets?
You can cut the metal cables which should release the tension allowing the glass to be moved up and down
@@PowerUpAuto of course! Thank you 😊
I tried this, but I still can’t get the window to move. You said cables, plural, I only found one?
How did you take out the rivets
Use a punch or awl to push out the center of the river (the mandrel) then you can easily drill them out with a 1/4” drill bit
I have a E 250 2003..with crank windows i want to make power .do you have conversion kit
The add on overlay kits are available online BUT, they are not fast and wear out quickly. You are adding an additional motor/regulator OVER the existing hand crank cable regulator in the door now.
BEST would be change the entire regulator with a OEM, FORD, Motor/regulator assembly. You will need to add aftermarket switches and wiring.
@@PowerUpAuto thank you...i was thinking that...take care
I can not get the unit out. It is stuck in the part attached to the window. What is the trick.
do a search on google for repair power window and the city you are in. Hire someone.
my window motor seems to run up and down but there is cable slack, does this mean it's bad? the window doesn't move but the motor works
Need to replace the window regulator assembly. See the video above
@@PowerUpAuto okay, thanks, I'm doing that right now but the window is glued into that track. I can't see how to get that thing out.
@@armadilllo Honest suggestion. Web search for Power Window Repair and the city you are in. We usually charge $380 for that repair.
@@PowerUpAuto I am perfectly capable, I have all the tools, you just left out some key steps like the bottom rivets that I had to raise and lower the window to drill them., I've got it now.
What size rivet gun did you use
That's the Marson Big Daddy Rivet tool. 1/4" rivets
If you hear a crunchy sound that means your window regulator needs to be replace?
absolutely. The regulator includes the window motor as well.
What if your window only rolls up 1/3 of the way and sticks?
Probably changing the motor/regulator assembly. Before you do try LIGHTLY Spraying wd-40 on the side channels. see if that helps
how did you get the window out.
don't need to remove the glass to change the regulator
Hi my regulator works when i put the put but my window wont go up or down what do you think it is
can you send a video?
How do I get the window to release from silicone black plate that holds the windows in place they have rivots in the black plate that's connected to the long metal bar
You need to drill out the rivets. Knock out the center point of the rivet (the mandrel) and then you should be able to use a 1/4" drill bit to drill off the rivets.@@MJGMA
@PowerUpAuto thank you took me a couple hours but it's done and good as new thank you again
@PowerUpAuto now the O2 sensors tomorrow I am 54 young female and have been remodeling houses fixing cars most of my life by myself I am my dads daughter and son he wished for lol I have 3 other siblings 1 older sister 1 older brother 1 younger brother though lol thanks for your help those rivets were a bi@#; lol
Is anyone willing to list the tools needed to complete this job.
Phillips screwdriver. But you will need a 1/4” regulator tool. You could also use 1/4” nuts and bolts to reinstall the regulator. Check out the video and please ask if you have any other questions.
Does this work on an e 450?
I don't think so. Check with your local Ford dealer
I am looking for a window regulator for a Ford 2000 e150 StarCraft van. Can you help me order one
In stock $70 delivered. 727-410-9995
@@PowerUpAuto just ordered from you. Thank you. That was easy
Ok this guy is legit. I ordered the window regulator for my Ford e150 he said I needed. Delivered a couple days. Installed and I'm a happy. Thank you thank you.
Where do you buy your riveting tool?
Thank you!
Marson Big Daddy. Have had it about 20 years
Harbor Freight buddy!
"There's a center point to the rivet. You're gonna bang out the mandrel [rivet pin], the center point, and then you're gonna drill out the rivet."
Easier said than done! Especially the one on the R-side for the window bracket where you've got a 2" hole to work in. If the pin won't bang out and you're forced to drill it, be prepared for a lesson in frustration.
Also, the only way to get my regulator assembly out of the door cavity was through the speaker hole.
2008 Ford E350 passenger van.
I can't get it out thru the speaker hole. Should come out with minimal work thru the main opening. The center point of the rivet (the mandrel) WILL punch out. Might need a bit of power and along awl/punch. Option B, drive down to Tampa FL and I can do it.
@@PowerUpAuto I got all the rivets out it's just that 1 was a real PIA. I tried taking the assembly out the main opening but it was much easier through the speaker hole.
You left out the hardest part. How do you remove the factory rivets?
Yeah, on the one I filmed there were nuts & bolts. To remove the rivets punch out the center point of the rivet (the steel mandrel) and then drill off the aluminum rivets with a 1/4" drill bit
@@PowerUpAutopunch them out using what? Thanks!
@@PowerUpAuto please upload a video of the original replacement. This doesn't help much if the thing wasn't already replaced previously..
Please explain again how to take out the rivets.
Punch out the center point of the rivet with a hammer and punch. Then drill out the rivet
Thank you for this great video! For me getting the rivets out was one of the easiest parts with a hammer and punch. It took me longer to get all the replacement bolts in just because it’s a tight squeeze in that door compartment. I was slower than molasses in January but I got it done! Thanks again!
What position does the window need to be in ?
you'll probably need to have the glass down far enough to get access to the rivets that go from the bracket to the glass.
@@PowerUpAuto thanks for the instructions, I started to work on the passenger side window of my e150 2003, all fastener were rivets and I had the hardest time to remove them (drill, grinder, chisel and hammer, combo of all). After hours I was able to remove most of them except for the 3rd one by the speaker. Looking inside the door noticed the glass is glued to a piece of metal that is fastened with rivets to the crossbar that goes up and down. Any advice on how to safely remove those rivets without damaging the glass? Or does that metal plate gets snapped into the vertical bar? (it's attached to the vertical bar on both sides with plastic clips).
@@beaalvarez9714 Easier than it seems. First punch out the mandrel (the center point of the rivet) with a hammer and punch. Should bang out pretty easy. Then its simple to drill out the rivets using a sharp 1/4 " drill bit. The only time you might not want to punch out the center point is if the glass is Laminated (yours should be tempered).
Very confusing do you require a riveting tool and if so where do you buy them. I am completely confused by this video you don’t explain in anyway what the rivetingtool is for.
The regulator is held in with rivetss. Marson Big Daddy rivet tool. About $100 on line. AND you will need 1/4" regulator rivets. You can do this with 1/4" nuts and bolts but it is more work.
And you can see in the video where the rivets are put into the door panel.
I guess you hold the glass closed while you change it out. He didn’t really say a word about the glass except when he put the window up.
Ford E350 side window seal replacement
I just did this. I had to replace the whole door because someone popped the lock and damaged the lock hole. 2002 door is DIFFERENT than 2006 at where the mirror mounts. A lot of modification to make fit.
I had no guts to punch the center pins of the 2 rivets on bracket holding the glass. There is no back support on the bracket and I did not want to shatter the glass. I did it by grinding and drilling and there is no easy access to one rivet. WHAT A PAIN. Ford, I hate u.
I've had to dremel the rivets off sometimes. Only times I have damages the glass was knocking the center point (mandrel) of the rivet out on LAMINATED glass. Specifically Lincoln Aviator
I’m currently in the process of doing exactly this on a 2010 E250 for exact same reason (damaged lock hole).
Did you have to cut the cable, or were you able to reuse it in the replacement door?
How you get the dam rivets out lol
use a punch to hammer out the center point of the rivet (the mandrel). Then you can drill off the rivet with a 1/4" drill bit.
@@PowerUpAuto think I messed up I drilled first lol
I've replaced 8 to 10 regulators before this one--never any with rivets. This was a nightmare. Rivets suck.
Rivets are great, IF you have the large rivet tool
damn rivets...lol
Getting nuts and bolts in there is even more difficult.
😭
Video is too heavily edited, doesn't show step-by-step directions, and it's not even reality, since rivets and not nuts and bolts are what held everything in place, and rivets are harder to remove than simply screwing and un-screwing nuts and bolts
I did mention there were usually rivets that needed to be drilled out. And I did replace the bolts with rivets. And it's not edited. Thanks for the feedback though.