Great job, I never really knew how to go about securing landscape timbers until I saw this. I knew it had to be rebar but wasn't sure about the best way to do it.
Thanks so much for the video. It had great info. This is going to be my next weekend project too. At least that's the plan. Keep up the good work. It looks great
nice job. easier to level bottom row first and use rebar to attach to ground! then use timberlocks on all the other to tie them together and makes much easier!!
The only thing I would do different is screw each course to the one below. And maybe use pond liner on the back side to keep the soil from making contact with the wood. I would think that's why they rot. Nice video and turned out nice. Thanks for sharing.
That looks good. I drilled the timbers like you did but I used 1/2 inch x 18 inch sections of PVC water pipe with end cap instead of rebarb. I staggered the connections but I cut the timber ends at 45 degree angles then used decking screws to connect the ends together.
You make it look so easy. I am in the process of putting in the same sort of timber wall, but staggering the lengths. I can't get my 12 inch 7/16 auger bit through more than two timbers at a time, and the 3/4 inch rebar is almost impossible for me to drive more than about 6 inches into the ground because of rocks. Do you have any suggestions?
The only thing I can think of is to make sure you are cleaning out the hole as you drill down. Every few inches pull the bit out as it’s running to remove some of the wood chips so the bit doesn’t bog down as much with depth. If you are already doing that then maybe try a corded drill or a battery drill that is more powerful if you can find one. As far as driving the rebar, I hit refusal a couple times but just kept pounding with the mallet until it went through. A heavier hammer wields a more powerful punch. Or you could decide that it’s deep enough and cut the rebar flush at the top.
@@thealaskanlawn6192 Thanks. Yes I kept withdrawing the auger to clear the chips, but I think the pressure treated timbers were just too new and wet, so what I did was lay out all the timbers in place, mark them on the back with sharpies so I could replace them easily and drill through a top one until it started into the next one down, remove the top one, drill through the second one to third one, and so on. I got everything drilled and all the rebar in as far as I can drive it. Being 81 years old I don't have the strength I used to, so a friend is coming over to see if he can get the rebar farther into the ground.
Great job, I never really knew how to go about securing landscape timbers until I saw this. I knew it had to be rebar but wasn't sure about the best way to do it.
I enjoyed watching you work. I was having trouble leveling out my tembers until I watched your veido. Thanks your project look great
Excellent. Very helpful. Thanks. I liked the format of on going video with the voiceover.
Thanks for making the video, you did a really good job. Your beds are pretty.
Thanks so much for the video. It had great info. This is going to be my next weekend project too. At least that's the plan. Keep up the good work. It looks great
It looks great. Have a great day.
Turned out really nice! I’m edging on a sloped yard, dividing my property from my neighbors. Using rebar to keep in place. Hopefully it won’t move.
Thanks! Hope your project turned out well.
Your work is amazing, it looks beautiful!
Helped a lot man. Thanks for the simple but informative video!
You bet man!
Good job! thanks for the details. Very helpful ☺️
You bet! Thanks for watching
Nice job! this will definitely help me when I start my similar project
Good to hear it! Hope your project goes well.....
I like your wood siding on your home very cool
Hey thanks! We like it too!
Great Job Bro! Looks really good ! I’m ready to try it now ty
Thanks! Good luck with your project.
nice job. easier to level bottom row first and use rebar to attach to ground! then use timberlocks on all the other to tie them together and makes much easier!!
Timberlocks....great idea! Thanks for the comment.
Nice work
The only thing I would do different is screw each course to the one below. And maybe use pond liner on the back side to keep the soil from making contact with the wood. I would think that's why they rot. Nice video and turned out nice. Thanks for sharing.
Rot?..I have painted white timbers, 15 years and still outside.
@@ballershanelle That's because they are painted. Treated wood in raised beds rots because of the contact with soil.
Thank you. Will definitely help us
Great job!
The only thing I’d recommend is cutting the ends at a 45 degree angle so the corners meet flush. Looks nice that way. Great job however.
Ah. Thats a good idea actually. That would look nice!
I have used 4" screws successfully
That looks good. I drilled the timbers like you did but I used 1/2 inch x 18 inch sections of PVC water pipe with end cap instead of rebarb. I staggered the connections but I cut the timber ends at 45 degree angles then used decking screws to connect the ends together.
Is the PVC a better choice than rebar?
Lowes and home depot only carries 8ft landscaping timbers where i am located central Florida
Beautifuil!
Is this treated lumber? I have had a heck of a time drilling a rebar hole through treated landscape lumber. Any suggestions?
Seems like you could buy a beveled stake for these
You make it look so easy. I am in the process of putting in the same sort of timber wall, but staggering the lengths. I can't get my 12 inch 7/16 auger bit through more than two timbers at a time, and the 3/4 inch rebar is almost impossible for me to drive more than about 6 inches into the ground because of rocks. Do you have any suggestions?
The only thing I can think of is to make sure you are cleaning out the hole as you drill down. Every few inches pull the bit out as it’s running to remove some of the wood chips so the bit doesn’t bog down as much with depth. If you are already doing that then maybe try a corded drill or a battery drill that is more powerful if you can find one. As far as driving the rebar, I hit refusal a couple times but just kept pounding with the mallet until it went through. A heavier hammer wields a more powerful punch. Or you could decide that it’s deep enough and cut the rebar flush at the top.
@@thealaskanlawn6192 Thanks. Yes I kept withdrawing the auger to clear the chips, but I think the pressure treated timbers were just too new and wet, so what I did was lay out all the timbers in place, mark them on the back with sharpies so I could replace them easily and drill through a top one until it started into the next one down, remove the top one, drill through the second one to third one, and so on. I got everything drilled and all the rebar in as far as I can drive it. Being 81 years old I don't have the strength I used to, so a friend is coming over to see if he can get the rebar farther into the ground.
I have used 4" screws for years..
@@caroldragon7545 Your drill bit is dull. Perhaps you've only used it a couple of times before and you swear it's good... but it could be dull.
@@MJ-em2ix Actually it was brand new. I'm probably just not strong enough.
Get a 6 or 8 lb maul and where is uour level?
The tools that you're using, can you rent them or is that something you had yourself?
I have those tools myself. You can probably rent power tools from home depot or something.
What diameter holes did you drill for the 3/4" rebar?
I used an extended length 3/4" drill bit.
@@thealaskanlawn6192 thanks lots!
That's a poor video