In the Lab with LOCTITE® - Proper Use of Threadlocker with Blind Holes
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 апр 2018
- Host Phil Godeck and Henkel Engineer, Darell Small, demonstrate how to properly use LOCTITE® thread locker in through hole and blind hole applications.
LOCTITE® thread locker: na.henkel-adhesives.com/indust... 
Наука
This demonstration was really good
So how do you do a horizontal blind thread ?
Excellent demonstration! Thanks!!!
Recommendation: Be certain to clean threads of oil and/or preservatives applied by the OEM to prevent corrosion. You can'y loctite to oil or grease.
Thanks Mr. Phil
easy, friendly, exciting. a perfect example of what tutorial should look like
Just an observation and personal rant here... (being that this is the manufacture, LOCTITE YT-Channel.) (Also, this video was done 5-years ago. I haven't searched the YT-Channel to see if they did more complete informative videos or updates. *Refer to my disclaimer.)
Ok, got it - put some threadlocker into the hole then screw-in the cleaned bolt, (torque to spec) and the threadlocker works as it's intended. Pushing up, covering the (majority) of the bolt threads. The experiment shows how this works perfectly - when the hole that you want to screw into is assisted by gravity - keeping the threadlocker compound in place.
*However, in both videos, the experiment (demonstration) FAILS to show the variety of applications where the threaded hole is above; where the bolt has to be inserted from below. Where the bolt hole isn't assisted by gravity to hold in the threadlocker liquid compound. Where if you squirted in some threadlocker compound it would quickly drip out. I think that this is the greatest percentage of the applications for most of us. The other more common application might be that you are using a pass thru bolt with a nut. In a majority of these specific applications - *I believe the recommendation would be to put *some threadlocker on the inside of the nut - ensuring that you roll the nut around, allowing the threadlocker compound to cover as much of the treads as possible. Then also put some threadlocker compound on the portions of the bolt where the nut-treads will make contact with the bolt. Also, working the threadlocker compound around the bolt threads. (As much as possible. Usually with a clean finger.) In these applications, whenever the "working space" and bolt length allows - the threadlocker compound should be (*or could be?) assisted by some type of mechanical locking device. Such as a lock-washer or star-washer or similar mechanical device. (Other than locking the nut/bolt in place by spot-welding them. Which may be excessive, unsafe or unfeasible.)
{{*Disclaimer: My comments are solely to express my dis-satifaction (a rant) with the Mfg.'s incomplete informative YT-Video. My comments are not intended to instruct anyone as to how they should use a threadlocker or other. I'm not telling you how to do anything.}}
Knowing the importance of bolts and nuts staying on when doing High-speed life changing mechanical activities If things go wrong, it's good to know what to do in order to Increase the confidence that when you go full-send, nothing really goes wrong in the dumbest areas such as bolts loosening and coming off like this. It's more than just having the proper skill and understanding when using certain things.
Is there a locktite adhesive that will stick Biothane together? This would be a huge help to my application.
will this work on heavy metal furniture leg with very long scew?
Great, but maybe the lab can tell me why the red threadlocker is in a blue container and the blue threadlocker is in a red container?
I need a product like the 202 or 203 so I can *pre-apply* Loctite to bolts *before shipping* to customers. However, I can't seem to find a retailer anymore. Where can I buy it??
Seemingly a simple task, but has a secret for doing it right.
I'm concerned about the tolerance on those threads - a tight thread won't let it push up through the threads, and you'll hydraulic the hole causing a false torque result or potentially cracking the parent material of the hole..?
How long does loctite dries up?
Thanks
I have been doing it wrong, every day is a learning day. Now I will do some testing and put a couple of drops into the solid brass studs.
Great video by the experts, thank you.
I have a question please.
I need to secure Solid Brass 10mm Chicago screws, I use these to make extra strong dog leads.
What would you recommend please?
You probably dont care but does anyone know a way to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly lost my login password. I would love any tricks you can give me!
@Giovanni Elliot instablaster :)
@Reign Alden Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Reign Alden It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my ass :D
@Giovanni Elliot happy to help xD
What I want to know is just how long did it take to calculate all the parameters of that last hole/bolt/thread locker situation? Hole depth, bolt length, and amount of thread locker pooled at the bottom.
The thread locker did not even start to rise until the bolt was about half way in. Now, some of the thread locker had been left on the threads after squirting it to the bottom, but that did not seem to provide a complete fill between the internal and external threads. But you seem to be implying that such an amount is not enough. This is your implication, not mine.
Do you have any data on just how many threads need to be coated with the thread locker to effectively lock it against forces that try to loosen it? And what percentage of coverage is needed on those threads? Does it really need to be a 100% fill? Would a 50% fill across more threads be just as effective? 25%? 75%?
It is also curious that the thread locker in the bottom started to rise before the bolt reached it. There was still air between the bolt and the thread locker. So it must be wicking action (surface tension) that started that rise. How does one calculate that effect along with hole dept and bolt length?
I have always applied the thread locker to the bolt, not the hole. And I apply it across all the threads. Now, I know that the threads near the end of the bolt will have a large percentage of the applied locker left behind as the bolt is screwed into the hold. But there is still wicking action which would tend to re-fill those threads.
People applying thread locker do not always know just how deep a hole goes. And workers on an assembly line may not have the luxury of taking time to measure it. How about a blind hole that is two or three times deeper than the length of thread engagement? How does your technique work there.
What about blind holes that are assigned specific torque values, and you pour a thread locker into the blind hole and torque it to say 50ft lbs., is there a formula to determine the amount of stress the loctite is adding in sense of hydraulically locking the bolt. Like if i add 1ml of loctite into a 2 inch blind hole, how is that changing my torque values?
I read online that loctite recommend a 20% torque reduction from the dry torque value so in your example you would apply 40ft lbs. However please do some more reseach to find the correct recommendation by loctite
Oh man that threading action was hot...
I know there is a maximum thread size specified in your specifications, but why? Can it still be applied safely applied? Or do the gaps become to large?
We are happy to assist with your product & technical questions. We need additional information to ensure we are providing the best answer, so please feel free to contact our Technical Experts at Support center | Henkel Adhesives (henkel-adhesives.com)
I was going to make a smart ass comment but surprised that this actually was helpful. TU. onward to the next victim.
Your manual states putting Loctite on the male thread and female thread, but in the video you only showed applying it to the female thread. Which is it?
Apply it to both. This video was mainly to demonstrate the purpose of the blindholes pushing air out and pushing the loctite out with it.
When is primer needed?
Also, I noticed Loctite has formulas only separated by one number such as, 242 & 243, why is this? Does it have anything to do with primer?
We are happy to assist with your product & technical questions. We need additional information to ensure we are providing the best answer, so please feel free to contact our Technical Experts at Contact Us - Henkel Adhesives (henkel-adhesives.com)
How to apply to a blind hole when is upside down. If I use this technique loctite will just flow out even before I get the chance to insert screw. Thank you
For applications where normal threadlocker will run, I use Loctite 248 which is blue "stick" threadlocker. It's a waxy, semi-solid that can be applied with a toothpick or small screwdriver.
Now I didn’t know that!!
Phil Godeck folks.
This is all very good in a Lab demonstration but what happens in the real world where the blind hole is hole down, or even horizontal! Chris B.
Thank you for this great question! We are happy to assist with your product & technical questions. We need additional information to ensure we are providing the best answer, so please feel free to contact our Technical Experts at Contact Us - Henkel Adhesives (henkel-adhesives.com)
Glad you wear eye protection, that all looked hella dangerous ))))
The gloves were for the prostate exams they gave each other afterwards.😂
That’s all very well, but you don’t get enough in the bottle!
What if it is a blind hole like this BUT the bolt is not going to go to the bottom?
For this situation, we'd suggest applying product to the bottom of the male threads along with running some product down the sides of the female threads where there will be engagement. The goal is to make sure that you have threadlocker between the threads, so even though the bolt may not reach the bottom, some of the entrapped air may still push product out. Any excess product that squeezes out can be easily removed after application.
@@loctiteNA This is what should have been the subject of the video. What was shown, almost never happens in the real world.
The blue loctite I bought is not thick like that and runs like water
i am not here for the music..
having bolts that are exactly the right depth to displace the locktite is totally unrealistic and none of those bolts were under tension securing anything. I think I just got dumber watching this.
Dude needs to open his mouth when he speaks
hydrolock has entered the chat
Thanks