Just some advice from a marine engineer that doesn't want to see you stranded. I would highly recommend adding fender washers that have more width/shoulder to them. 7:45 What you are using now will pull through the beam over a short period of time. If you can find a shop that has some 1.5 - 2 inch wide SS flat bar that you can have across the beam being used by both bolts it will give you a higher clamp force and stability. This would be your best route.
@@nick.caffrey Exactly. He is doing a great job with everything. Just some odds and ends he is still learning about. The good thing is Mark is open to new info and ideas.
@@davidmason5163 That would work as well. I like the SS flat bar for the fact it spreads out the forces from all the variables when under sail over a larger portion of the beam.
@@artbymaryf7283 Hi Mary! Honored by your reply. You have a great kiddo and wonderful family. Didn't think about the dingy! Lord knows if it was me half my tools would be in a watery grave. 😆 God bless and always look forward to seeing mom and dad on the channel. Cheers!
@Benjamin-tv2xd ...honestly Benjamin, that was one of my fears,,,but Mark said its great for catching anything that may fall!!😂 Ahh that is so lovely of you to say...Mark is our youngest of 3 sons & they all are our life - we feel so blessed 🙏
Use a pilot drill (or two) to progressively drill larger holes to the finished size. One large drill can create work-hardening of the stainless so by pilot drilling, you do most of the work with the outer edges of the drill bit.
Hey man, you’re doing so great. “Winging it” is not the impression you’re giving me. I feel like you’re working hard behind the scenes to do things well. And hell, you’ve mentioned your concerns over sailing safety like how many times!?! Keep going man. Can’t wait to see you sailing this great little boat. 🤙
That's unfair @@gregm8941, even though some people are not as well trained in the English language . It doesn't say anything about their knowledge of sailing or boat building
You keep doing you, man. There is an internet "expert" behind every keyboard. You're doing great work and I cannot wait until this project is completed.
I know I love you Mark - for that there is no doubt....HOWEVUUURRRR, Each week i'm falling in love more & more with your subscribers!! The constructive advice, knowledge & encouragement is palpable🤗⛵️🤗
Hey Mark, look for a machine shop around you and see if they could skim the bottom of the mast step flat and square to the mast. If you need it on a bit of an angle on the mast, they can machine that angle into the base. I've been a Machinist for over 25 years and this would be easy.
Mark you are a star. Please would you consider wearing eye protection when drilling, a bit of swarf can take your sight? I noticed my panic. Go gently and well. x
A trick I learned when cutting threaded rod or bolts is to spin a couple of nuts on first. It gives you something to clamp down on without damaging the threads and when you back the nuts off it repairs the threads
Good film, I'm amazed by your perseverance. You must really love Wharrams! A tip from my (late) engineer dad: always keep a nut upstream on the thread you're cutting. When you finish, wind down the nut and go forwards and back a bit and it will clean the end-thread up for you. Saves a lot of frustration later!
You look so much more confident with the manual work and getting help where you need it. I think its coming together and will be a good boat when it's finished. Keep going
It took me quite a while to understand why a drill bit had anything to do with the song. I was just about to post a comment asking someone to explain it, then it hit me. A "Helter Skelter" is a fair ground ride that's a tower with a spiral slide around it. The drill bit looks like that slide! And that's what the song is named after.
Good to see Hanneka is keeping her beady eye on your work. Do not forget to resin/fiberglass all the wood including end grains and fill the holes also.
Anyone who listens to the Beatles while they are working is bound to succeed! You're doing great, Get yourself a grinding wheel and sharpen your drill bits. It's easy to do by hand once you get the hang of it.
Mate, first: you are doing a phenomenal good job on your boat! Second: You need to keep in mind that it is in fact YOUR boat, and YOU have to have confidence in her capabilities! YOU are (re)building her, it is YOUR home. So please....take the good advice-but never EVER doubt your own choices and decisions! You ARE doing it right my friend! You have made the right decisions. There is always more then one road to the same destination! Keep it up-hang in there-and you WILL get there! ( sorry for all the captcha's bro!). Just keep going!
for drilling stainless cobalt drill bits are what i would recommend also slightly slower drill speed with some cutting fluid and once you start dont stop till you are through or it will work harden trust me i had to do 30k of them over 2 weeks of hell ps your doing great
I’ve been following your channel for some time and want to commend you for your tenacity. It is inspiring for an an old codger like me to watch a young man go for such a daunting goal. You have given me hope for the younger generation.
It's great to watch. I have owned many a yacht ,and people said you can get the same feeling if you stand in a shower ripping up 20-pound notes.. but you need to have some fun as well .
Dear Wildling Sailing. 👍👌👏 2) Yeah, I totally agree: Simply do what Hanneke suggests. She's definitely an expert. I guess that she is the most experienced Wharram sailor and builder. 3) You sound a bit tired. I'm a bit worried. Maybe you need a vacation. Best regards, luck and health in particular.
Thank you for addressing comments related to the mast beam. You are doing fine work. Seeing your struggles and successes is very satisfying. Thank you for providing content.
In the intro seeing how well you nailed the drilling... I was super impressed. Then I saw the tool you used to get it really straight .... still super impressed! Well played sir... well played!!
A word of encouragement. Keep on the good work. Sure one could always do better. Fact is you a learning such a lot as you go on and people should remember you had a boat before this one which you successfully restored and sailed. You got my admiration and support!!!
I really look forward the this every Friday. You’re a real grafter, good learner, and you have inspiring enthusiasm. Thanks for letting us see all this. Well done.
What you are doing is MASSIVE!!!!! Take no notice of the couch surfers, you are living a really great life and it does not matter if you get some things wrong, you have have got the main thing right TO LIVE AN ADVENTURE. There is no loosing as long as you are trying. Loosing only happens when you give up and go and get a job in a fecking office with a boss you hate. Loosing only happens when you give up a dream. You can feck everything up along the way, it does not matter, just never make the ultimate feck up of giving up and living a life you regret. Live it like you stole it young Jedi!!!!!!!!!!
Greetings from Norway! Last weeks video was a gem, and the quality is only getting better in wisdom, skills and not least the storytelling. And a great taste in music is also a pluss 😊
Hello I am Mr Whattodo and glad to ear you are conscious of your tech weaknesses. Randomly: , do not push your drill bit all the way in the drill shuck. To keep compression on the square tubes you HAVE to use a spacer INSIDE the tubes or they will crush and never get tight, depending on what you have around you can use a tight fitting hardwood block in place of tubing ,The long tubes over the rods at 18:15 defeat the very purpose of the system, don't you want to squeeze the beams. When you have decided the place of the mast built a little frame(mold) filled with epoxy- strand mix , and press the mast step in. Do not forget the Saran wrap on the step to keep it from sticking. To create a cheap 90 deg drilling guide cut a rectangle of plywood diagonally and glue the two sides on edge,use the long or short sides as a guide , want it fancy ?glue a drill size pvc tube to it. If you have easy access to her ask Anika about anything I can tell she is right, Personally I would try to hire her ,like an hour a week online,paid reasonably well. In the end it would save you time and money
It’s a great outcome happening. It will be cool to see it merging. The mast going up, the engines on. Your great job. Just to say it is inspiring following your channel.
Well Mark, you are definitely progressing as a "Do it all" boat owner. After reading thru the comments it looks like most of my suggestions have already been stated (center punch, cobalt drills, pilpt hole, a good electric bit sharpener, countersinking the nuts). The only words of wisdom i can add to it is when putting stainless fasteners onto stainless threads always add some type of lubricant. Stainless on stainless like to gall and bind up. Keep on learning, but take some time for yourself. Don't be concerned about stepping away for a bit and putting the boat out of your mind. It will pay dividends when you get back to it.
Great episode again Mark...admirable levels of nonstop graft .....do yourself a favour though mate and use a series of pilot holes when drilling..makes a tremendous difference...particularly with stainless steel.....will extend your drill bit - and battery life! - no end 👍
HEY Mark, just discovered your channel, we bought our CT41 taiwan clipper in Monnickendam Harbour and always wondered what this cool wharam was doing there in the corner of the small lake near the harbor, glad that there is someone taking care and making it into a beautiful new adventure. good luck and save travel.
The bit that will compress when the bolts are done up is the box section.Instead of cutting bushes inside the box section you could have used hardwoodcut with an interference fit & hammered in. Then drilled. The box section would not compress &if you were worries about rot you could soak it in resin first.
You are right and Mark is also on a budget, Also the other bushings over the logs keeps it from being tight. He should be careful who he get advise from, I would say listen to Anika alone, if possible hire her an hour a week online, that will save Mark time and money.... and stupid advise.
@@jiefflerenard1228 Correct . The bushings on the beam need to be slightly slack to allow max compression across the beam.Considering the cost he could have just put bushes on the top ones where they bear on the beam & helf stiffen the studding & not bothered on the underside where they are below the beam & do not apply any vertical load. Only horizontal clamping load.
@@WildlingSailing and inside every drilled hole, then fill the holes with sikaflex then finish the install . I would also use cover nuts for a nice finish.
Hardly necessary. Good quality paint is totally sufficient for a non immersed piece of quality wood, and is needed to avoid UV damage for epoxy anyway. Do you see any epoxy painted on exterior non-immersed timber in other wooden boat projects ??
@@WildlingSailingsaw a method online for filling horizontally drilled holes with epoxy. From duct tape form a little dam or half funnel which will direct epoxy in while a similar funnel on other end allows air to escape up, this filling hole to top. *Sorry, old mind makes attribute unavailable, but thanks to this fine mariner.
As lots of people have said a smaller pilot hole first when drilling stainless also maybe get a cheap pillar drill, nice slow steady speed and even pressure. It would be worth it in the long run if you much more stainless to drill. I’m sure there would be something on marketplace or similar. Good luck and keep up the great work. Oh and some proper cutting fluid, I like CT90.
Looks great, just make sure you put stainless washers inside the stainless bar someone said.. if you dont, then the square tubing could crush flat and be structurally useless under heavy load
Drill a pilot hole first then move up to the full size, but re sharpen your drill bits, after a few years you can do it by eye, but you can by a little jig that fits on your drill to sharpen your bits, good luck in your build
Excellent work Mark! You might consider a reciprocating saw if theres much more metal work! I was worn out just watching you cut all that! 😅 Cannot wait to see that mast planted and a sail flying! Advice is just epoxying any and all holes as well as wood and using large diameter washers on the stainless rectangular and square tubing. Also, lock washers may last longer than nylock nuts. I'm so jealous of you and this massive cool project! Goooo Mark!👍
Hey Mark, loving your videos. I’m a field service tech listening to you during the day, looking forward to your sailing adventures. I sharpen my drill bits freehand on the fly using an angle grinder, you can use a Jig also 🙂👍
Great video's your doing a great job so far. loving your enthusiasum. You probably know this already but just saying :-) When drilling steel or stainless steel, use Cobalt drill bits. Drill slowly, the key is to keep the bit tip cool so dip it in water or oil when ever you believe it's getting hot. You know it's in the sweet spot regarding drill speed when you can see material appearing from the tip as its drilling. Caution as tempting as it is, dont ever drill full speed, this makes the tip over heat (as mentioned in this video) and blunting the drill bit. Good luck looking forward to future episodes.
Thanks for explaining why the base for the mast is so long. I am sure you know this trick, when cutting threads, put a nut on first, when you take the nut off it will re cut the threads. Absolutely nothing wrong with using a Die to do the threads, however if you don't have the right size ! You almost always have the right size nut.
I know better than to doubt your skill an determination to follow through with your plans .. An to sail her round the world!! Mark I have faith in your ability to succeed!! Cheers mate✌🏼💗😊🫡
Love your vids. Highly recommend you use larger washers on both ends of the threaded bar. The larger they are the more you multiply the pull through resistance.
17:59 mark you need to fit the spacers inside your square tube as when you tighten the all thread it will squash down the box section ...allowing it to work loose . The threaded gap between the uprights doesnt need to be covered per say but if you do sleeve it make sure its bit shorter than the gap or it will prevent the brackets gripping the wooden beam effectively 👍🏼💪🏼 more power and 🧠 to your elbows 😉
Agreed, awesome album, one of my favs, I for one think you're doing an incredible job under difficult circumstances(the fact you aren't a shipwright), but you still consulted the designer, which I can honestly tell you, most people don't do! So an Aussie hats off to you my friend!
Use a rubber, or plastic, spacer between the bottom of your mast attachment and the top of the boat. It would take the bend of the deck and you won’t need to cut, or grind, the bottom of the mast attachment.
All the boat project stuff is brilliant as always, but I was the most impressed by your ability to conjure up White Album era Beatles from the great sea of strike-free RUclips music content. Excellent job!
Totally admire your dedication in spite of the cold and wet and naysayers. You're learning and improving all the time and slowky but surely whittling this huge project down. I can see you sailing this beast like a pro in no time. Keep going mate, we're with you 100%!
You can find many 'experts' in domments, given Hanneke has more experience than anyone else out there regarding the Wharran designs nad builds, I know who's advice I would listen too!
Mark very smart to have one drill that runs on electricity, covers when you have burned through all the batteries, good to hear that you build of the mast foot was blessed by the designer. With stainless the faster you drill the harder the metal becomes....slow with lube does it. You might not be able to see it but you have grown immensely as a builder you are taking your time, deferring to experts, and defending their advice, and you are willing to redo things you feel aren't up to the level you want....you are doing really well...cheers
You should be proud of those brackets Mark! Final job looked very neat mate. You'll probably be able to find some end bungs for the s/s tube online. 👍👍
hey mate you're really going for on this boat I'm so pleased for you there's so much help around you as well can you imagine if you had bought the boat that was on other side of the world. Really pleased for you the way it's taking shape
I, personally, think if you have driven a 12mm hole you should use 12mm rod. I would agree with bigger washers - even more important if you are using 10mm rod.
Good work, mate! Slowly good comes!! And learn right way do things! Littlebit a brainworks,bong and then slow motion doet!! You now what i mean! Everything good for you sailor!!
Use cobalt M35 drill bits, even the cheap ones for 20odd quids will work. Also get yourself drill bits sharpenner (unless you already have a bench grinder and a good eye for sharpenning the drillbits by hand).
Hi - trust and hope that you are keeping well with all of the work on your awesome project. Just a suggestion... I would consider using stainless carriage bolts instead of the stainless threaded rod that is two mil smaller.I would also use bolts that are the exact same size of the holes you are drilling. Using larger fender washers for the bolts would always be a plus. Another suggestion would be to build a sturdy work platform as it will assist you in all of your work projects going forward. A solid pair of sawhorses with a fixed top will go long way.
Good investment that Makita. I got a 18v set 5 years ago. Not one tool has failed me to this day. Built 2 houses with it an havent been kind too them at all. May cost a pretty penny but they work and suffer loads of abuse without getting killed on the first day of use.
Mate, i been watching you since week 1, your turning into quite the boat builder, you should be proud of yourself. 1 sujestion, learn howntonsharpen drill bits, not only will it save you $$££€€ but there will be times you just cant buy a new bit in time. You can sharpen them with as little as an angle grinder and a grinding wheel or flappy wheel (the type with all the flaps of sandpaper) but realpy you need a bench grinder. 30yrs ago i bought the daintiest peice of junk but was perfect for sharpening drill bits and damaged chisels etc As for chisels i always sharpened them on a wet stone doing the angle by eye but mate, get one of those jigs that attach tonthe chissel and give you a perfect angle and the new diamond sharpening "stones". With zero effort i can get the chisel sharp as buggery in 2 min flat, makes your job easier and safer and less fristrating (and gives you something to do at night/rain days. And drilling stainless, what you said was right, drill slow and lube up but also good pressure behind the drill. Keep up the great work champ, youll be crossing oceans before you know it. Cheers from the land down under
I think you would benefit from a sliding compound mitre saw, fitted with a metal blade, for cutting all that steel. Better still if you can find one with a variable speed motor.
Just some advice from a marine engineer that doesn't want to see you stranded. I would highly recommend adding fender washers that have more width/shoulder to them. 7:45 What you are using now will pull through the beam over a short period of time. If you can find a shop that has some 1.5 - 2 inch wide SS flat bar that you can have across the beam being used by both bolts it will give you a higher clamp force and stability. This would be your best route.
Absolutely. Mark is still thinking in machine shop terms. Wood requires different solutions.
@@nick.caffrey Exactly. He is doing a great job with everything. Just some odds and ends he is still learning about. The good thing is Mark is open to new info and ideas.
I was thinking the washers were too small...First thing came to mind was old 'Penny' washers for size. Stainless or coated..
@@davidmason5163 That would work as well. I like the SS flat bar for the fact it spreads out the forces from all the variables when under sail over a larger portion of the beam.
@@revtoyota yeah definitely flat bar, going to outperform washers and looks better.
Every time I watch I'm terrified something is going to fall through spaces in between the deck boards. :D
I get you Benjamin...but he uses his dingy to catch anything🤗⛵️🤗
@@artbymaryf7283 Hi Mary! Honored by your reply. You have a great kiddo and wonderful family. Didn't think about the dingy! Lord knows if it was me half my tools would be in a watery grave. 😆 God bless and always look forward to seeing mom and dad on the channel. Cheers!
@Benjamin-tv2xd ...honestly Benjamin, that was one of my fears,,,but Mark said its great for catching anything that may fall!!😂 Ahh that is so lovely of you to say...Mark is our youngest of 3 sons & they all are our life - we feel so blessed 🙏
Use a pilot drill (or two) to progressively drill larger holes to the finished size. One large drill can create work-hardening of the stainless so by pilot drilling, you do most of the work with the outer edges of the drill bit.
Very sound tip. And it's not even time-consuming as you would think!
Geat advice! I size my pilot hole by the center of the largest drillbit, there is a small section that doesnt do any cutting .
Step drill set would be an excellent addition to the arsenal and _SLOWER_ drilling!!
@@dancarter482 damn. You beat me to it. I just made the same remark. Best drills ever.
Also set the speed lower for stainless steel and use lube as you want to avoid heat. Stainless will get harder as it heats up.
Hey man, you’re doing so great. “Winging it” is not the impression you’re giving me. I feel like you’re working hard behind the scenes to do things well. And hell, you’ve mentioned your concerns over sailing safety like how many times!?! Keep going man. Can’t wait to see you sailing this great little boat. 🤙
cheers mate!
Some of those experts can even spell comments. 😂
That's unfair @@gregm8941, even though some people are not as well trained in the English language . It doesn't say anything about their knowledge of sailing or boat building
@@gregm8941 Elon musk cant spell for sixpence , and doesn't have a degree .
Lovely...just lovely🤗⛵️🤗
You keep doing you, man. There is an internet "expert" behind every keyboard. You're doing great work and I cannot wait until this project is completed.
I'm constantly impressed by how constructively you deal with comments by your viewers 👍
Ditto🤗⛵️🤗
Mark, boat work is just winging it 99.9% of the time! Your doing a great job!
I know I love you Mark - for that there is no doubt....HOWEVUUURRRR, Each week i'm falling in love more & more with your subscribers!! The constructive advice, knowledge & encouragement is palpable🤗⛵️🤗
Hey Mark, look for a machine shop around you and see if they could skim the bottom of the mast step flat and square to the mast. If you need it on a bit of an angle on the mast, they can machine that angle into the base. I've been a Machinist for over 25 years and this would be easy.
Yep they can do that. Get a few quotes if you can. Wonder how it rounded over.
@@slimjim3229heat distortion from welding maybe?
Probably better to have it pad welded before skimming & put a block of g10 underneath it.
This is the way to go. I commented the same thing above.
I agree needs to be skimmed flat. Otherwise you don't know what you are working with. S few mm off at the bottom is a wonky mast at the top
Very nice! Its comming along my friend! You are getting better and better.
Mark you are a star.
Please would you consider wearing eye protection when drilling, a bit of swarf can take your sight? I noticed my panic. Go gently and well. x
Lots of folks giving good positive advice about things …so let me just thank you for showing all the good and struggles. 🙂
A trick I learned when cutting threaded rod or bolts is to spin a couple of nuts on first. It gives you something to clamp down on without damaging the threads and when you back the nuts off it repairs the threads
Good film, I'm amazed by your perseverance. You must really love Wharrams! A tip from my (late) engineer dad: always keep a nut upstream on the thread you're cutting. When you finish, wind down the nut and go forwards and back a bit and it will clean the end-thread up for you. Saves a lot of frustration later!
You look so much more confident with the manual work and getting help where you need it. I think its coming together and will be a good boat when it's finished. Keep going
It took me quite a while to understand why a drill bit had anything to do with the song. I was just about to post a comment asking someone to explain it, then it hit me. A "Helter Skelter" is a fair ground ride that's a tower with a spiral slide around it. The drill bit looks like that slide! And that's what the song is named after.
Good to see Hanneka is keeping her beady eye on your work. Do not forget to resin/fiberglass all the wood including end grains and fill the holes also.
With every video, I’m impressed more and more with your tenacity and wonderful demeanor.
Anyone who listens to the Beatles while they are working is bound to succeed! You're doing great, Get yourself a grinding wheel and sharpen your drill bits. It's easy to do by hand once you get the hang of it.
Great progress 👏👏
Mate, first: you are doing a phenomenal good job on your boat! Second: You need to keep in mind that it is in fact YOUR boat, and YOU have to have confidence in her capabilities! YOU are (re)building her, it is YOUR home. So please....take the good advice-but never EVER doubt your own choices and decisions! You ARE doing it right my friend! You have made the right decisions. There is always more then one road to the same destination! Keep it up-hang in there-and you WILL get there! ( sorry for all the captcha's bro!). Just keep going!
for drilling stainless cobalt drill bits are what i would recommend also slightly slower drill speed with some cutting fluid and once you start dont stop till you are through or it will work harden trust me i had to do 30k of them over 2 weeks of hell ps your doing great
its really nice to see you learning with this boat and more committed to doing things properly rather than beetle tapping everything 😅
I’ve been following your channel for some time and want to commend you for your tenacity. It is inspiring for an an old codger like me to watch a young man go for such a daunting goal. You have given me hope for the younger generation.
It's great to watch. I have owned many a yacht ,and people said you can get the same feeling if you stand in a shower ripping up 20-pound notes.. but you need to have some fun as well .
Dear Wildling Sailing.
👍👌👏 2) Yeah, I totally agree: Simply do what Hanneke suggests. She's definitely an expert. I guess that she is the most experienced Wharram sailor and builder. 3) You sound a bit tired. I'm a bit worried. Maybe you need a vacation.
Best regards, luck and health in particular.
Thank you for addressing comments related to the mast beam. You are doing fine work. Seeing your struggles and successes is very satisfying. Thank you for providing content.
Reduce the wear on larger bits in ss by drilling a smaller pilot hole, as the points are worn out quickly without a pilot.
Drills like chisels can and should be kept sharpened by hand file or drill stones...
@@saylaveenadmearedead I don't think a file will touch a HSS drill bit.
Your doin great. Photography is great and editing looks good to me.
Keep your excitement for this stuff and your gonna do fantastic.
you can sharpen drill bits wit a little attachment with a stone inside, they don't cost much
In the intro seeing how well you nailed the drilling... I was super impressed. Then I saw the tool you used to get it really straight .... still super impressed! Well played sir... well played!!
Love how you're bringing to a able vessel,Mark!
A word of encouragement. Keep on the good work. Sure one could always do better. Fact is you a learning such a lot as you go on and people should remember you had a boat before this one which you successfully restored and sailed. You got my admiration and support!!!
I really look forward the this every Friday. You’re a real grafter, good learner, and you have inspiring enthusiasm. Thanks for letting us see all this. Well done.
What you are doing is MASSIVE!!!!! Take no notice of the couch surfers, you are living a really great life and it does not matter if you get some things wrong, you have have got the main thing right TO LIVE AN ADVENTURE. There is no loosing as long as you are trying. Loosing only happens when you give up and go and get a job in a fecking office with a boss you hate. Loosing only happens when you give up a dream. You can feck everything up along the way, it does not matter, just never make the ultimate feck up of giving up and living a life you regret. Live it like you stole it young Jedi!!!!!!!!!!
I must admit. I admire you and you frustrate me in equal measure! X.
Greetings from Norway! Last weeks video was a gem, and the quality is only getting better in wisdom, skills and not least the storytelling. And a great taste in music is also a pluss 😊
Thankyou so much, mate. comments like these are such a nice reward for the work!!
Hello I am Mr Whattodo and glad to ear you are conscious of your tech weaknesses.
Randomly: , do not push your drill bit all the way in the drill shuck.
To keep compression on the square tubes you HAVE to use a spacer INSIDE the tubes or they will crush and never get tight, depending on what you have around you can use a tight fitting hardwood block in place of tubing ,The long tubes over the rods at 18:15 defeat the very purpose of the system, don't you want to squeeze the beams.
When you have decided the place of the mast built a little frame(mold) filled with epoxy- strand mix , and press the mast step in.
Do not forget the Saran wrap on the step to keep it from sticking.
To create a cheap 90 deg drilling guide cut a rectangle of plywood diagonally and glue the two sides on edge,use the long or short sides as a guide , want it fancy ?glue a drill size pvc tube to it.
If you have easy access to her ask Anika about anything I can tell she is right, Personally I would try to hire her ,like an hour a week
online,paid reasonably well. In the end it would save you time and money
It’s a great outcome happening. It will be cool to see it merging. The mast going up, the engines on. Your great job. Just to say it is inspiring following your channel.
For nautical use, the correct option is 316L Stainless Steel (low carbon). 304 steel oxidizes quickly in contact with seawater.
Well Mark, you are definitely progressing as a "Do it all" boat owner. After reading thru the comments it looks like most of my suggestions have already been stated (center punch, cobalt drills, pilpt hole, a good electric bit sharpener, countersinking the nuts). The only words of wisdom i can add to it is when putting stainless fasteners onto stainless threads always add some type of lubricant. Stainless on stainless like to gall and bind up. Keep on learning, but take some time for yourself. Don't be concerned about stepping away for a bit and putting the boat out of your mind. It will pay dividends when you get back to it.
God love this kid for the effort, this project is fun to watch and at the same time is killing me.
Nice job😊
Great episode again Mark...admirable levels of nonstop graft .....do yourself a favour though mate and use a series of pilot holes when drilling..makes a tremendous difference...particularly with stainless steel.....will extend your drill bit - and battery life! - no end 👍
Enjoyed the update. You're making progress. So are we... feels good :)
boy have you come a long way . outstanding
Loving the self depreciating attitude, you are doing a great job.I really look forward to every new video.
Deprecating
HEY Mark, just discovered your channel, we bought our CT41 taiwan clipper in Monnickendam Harbour and always wondered what this cool wharam was doing there in the corner of the small lake near the harbor, glad that there is someone taking care and making it into a beautiful new adventure. good luck and save travel.
The bit that will compress when the bolts are done up is the box section.Instead of cutting bushes inside the box section you could have used hardwoodcut with an interference fit & hammered in. Then drilled. The box section would not compress &if you were worries about rot you could soak it in resin first.
You are right and Mark is also on a budget,
Also the other bushings over the logs keeps it from being tight. He should be careful who he get advise from, I would say listen to Anika alone, if possible hire her an hour a week online, that will save Mark time and money.... and stupid advise.
@@jiefflerenard1228 Correct . The bushings on the beam need to be slightly slack to allow max compression across the beam.Considering the cost he could have just put bushes on the top ones where they bear on the beam & helf stiffen the studding & not bothered on the underside where they are below the beam & do not apply any vertical load. Only horizontal clamping load.
I use a centre drill for starting stainless. Not sure why but it works like a dream, even through thick stuff. Well done Mark, she' taking shape.
Loving the series! Keep at it!
Hey Mark, it looks like the long drill bit (auger) is meant for an SDS drill as opposed to a 3 jaw chuck. Looks like you managed anyway.
In my humble opinion, you should cover in epoxy every single piece of wood, before setting it permanently.
cool, will do
@@WildlingSailing and inside every drilled hole, then fill the holes with sikaflex then finish the install . I would also use cover nuts for a nice finish.
Butyl tape for all holes will keep the freshwater out and reworkable unlike sealant...
Hardly necessary. Good quality paint is totally sufficient for a non immersed piece of quality wood, and is needed to avoid UV damage for epoxy anyway. Do you see any epoxy painted on exterior non-immersed timber in other wooden boat projects ??
@@WildlingSailingsaw a method online for filling horizontally drilled holes with epoxy. From duct tape form a little dam or half funnel which will direct epoxy in while a similar funnel on other end allows air to escape up, this filling hole to top. *Sorry, old mind makes attribute unavailable, but thanks to this fine mariner.
You're almost there Mark. I look forward to watching your videos every week. Keep motivated and do it the right way FIRST!
As lots of people have said a smaller pilot hole first when drilling stainless also maybe get a cheap pillar drill, nice slow steady speed and even pressure. It would be worth it in the long run if you much more stainless to drill. I’m sure there would be something on marketplace or similar. Good luck and keep up the great work. Oh and some proper cutting fluid, I like CT90.
Looks great, just make sure you put stainless washers inside the stainless bar someone said.. if you dont, then the square tubing could crush flat and be structurally useless under heavy load
Good jobs done. Small steps make one big one🎉
Bobbys job that. Well done 👍
Drill a pilot hole first then move up to the full size, but re sharpen your drill bits, after a few years you can do it by eye, but you can by a little jig that fits on your drill to sharpen your bits, good luck in your build
Excellent work Mark! You might consider a reciprocating saw if theres much more metal work!
I was worn out just watching you cut all that! 😅
Cannot wait to see that mast planted and a sail flying!
Advice is just epoxying any and all holes as well as wood and using large diameter washers on the stainless rectangular and square tubing.
Also, lock washers may last longer than nylock nuts.
I'm so jealous of you and this massive cool project!
Goooo Mark!👍
Your boat is looking great Mark.when you finish it don't sell it like you did the other cat. Keep up the good work.
Hey Mark, loving your videos. I’m a field service tech listening to you during the day, looking forward to your sailing adventures.
I sharpen my drill bits freehand on the fly using an angle grinder, you can use a Jig also 🙂👍
Great video's your doing a great job so far. loving your enthusiasum. You probably know this already but just saying :-) When drilling steel or stainless steel, use Cobalt drill bits. Drill slowly, the key is to keep the bit tip cool so dip it in water or oil when ever you believe it's getting hot. You know it's in the sweet spot regarding drill speed when you can see material appearing from the tip as its drilling. Caution as tempting as it is, dont ever drill full speed, this makes the tip over heat (as mentioned in this video) and blunting the drill bit. Good luck looking forward to future episodes.
Your boat is looking better on every episode!!
Thanks for explaining why the base for the mast is so long.
I am sure you know this trick, when cutting threads, put a nut on first, when you take the nut off it will re cut the threads. Absolutely nothing wrong with using a Die to do the threads, however if you don't have the right size ! You almost always have the right size nut.
Mark get a metal blade for the grinder, will make the metal work go alot quicker
I know better than to doubt your skill an determination to follow through with your plans .. An to sail her round the world!!
Mark I have faith in your ability to succeed!! Cheers mate✌🏼💗😊🫡
Love your vids. Highly recommend you use larger washers on both ends of the threaded bar. The larger they are the more you multiply the pull through resistance.
17:59 mark you need to fit the spacers inside your square tube as when you tighten the all thread it will squash down the box section ...allowing it to work loose . The threaded gap between the uprights doesnt need to be covered per say but if you do sleeve it make sure its bit shorter than the gap or it will prevent the brackets gripping the wooden beam effectively 👍🏼💪🏼 more power and 🧠 to your elbows 😉
Agreed, awesome album, one of my favs, I for one think you're doing an incredible job under difficult circumstances(the fact you aren't a shipwright), but you still consulted the designer, which I can honestly tell you, most people don't do! So an Aussie hats off to you my friend!
Use a rubber, or plastic, spacer between the bottom of your mast attachment and the top of the boat. It would take the bend of the deck and you won’t need to cut, or grind, the bottom of the mast attachment.
What great progress, would love to see Hanneke on your channel again. She really is a fantastic lady
👍 great work Mark , and as someone else says , you can say you done that !👍
ive been waiting for what feels like hours for this upload!!!! damn you Mark!!!!
hahaha cheers, mate
Well done Mark your doing a great job I admire your dedication to the build keep it up 👍
Keep up the good work, you're doing great.
All the boat project stuff is brilliant as always, but I was the most impressed by your ability to conjure up White Album era Beatles from the great sea of strike-free RUclips music content. Excellent job!
Re- sharpen the drill bit, it's very easy to do . I have bits 20 years old ....saves money too .😊
I am not in a position to criticise you as I am totally impractical, but I think you are doing a fantastic job, well done.
You really have learnt so much. But you had some of the best people helping. You mount the beam as one of the boats designers said was safe. 2x👍
Hi Mark, keep going, you doing fine. Nice to see the progress being made, love the show, cheers Craig UK
Totally admire your dedication in spite of the cold and wet and naysayers. You're learning and improving all the time and slowky but surely whittling this huge project down. I can see you sailing this beast like a pro in no time. Keep going mate, we're with you 100%!
Doing a awesome job! We all learn from our mistakes! No one is a expert overnight😊 I enjoy watching your videos, see ya on the next one⛵️
You can find many 'experts' in domments, given Hanneke has more experience than anyone else out there regarding the Wharran designs nad builds, I know who's advice I would listen too!
Mark very smart to have one drill that runs on electricity, covers when you have burned through all the batteries, good to hear that you build of the mast foot was blessed by the designer. With stainless the faster you drill the harder the metal becomes....slow with lube does it. You might not be able to see it but you have grown immensely as a builder you are taking your time, deferring to experts, and defending their advice, and you are willing to redo things you feel aren't up to the level you want....you are doing really well...cheers
Well done Mark. Progress is being made which we can all see. Keep it up.
Keep it up mark your doing a fab job 😊
You should be proud of those brackets Mark! Final job looked very neat mate. You'll probably be able to find some end bungs for the s/s tube online. 👍👍
Don't sweat it. I know nothing about sailing but I do know about building things from wood and resin. You're doing alright.
Metal blade for the miter saw cuts like butter. Any angles needed and clean easy welds. Cheers looks great
hey mate you're really going for on this boat I'm so pleased for you there's so much help around you as well can you imagine if you had bought the boat that was on other side of the world. Really pleased for you the way it's taking shape
Doing very good. Videos are also really good 👍👍
I, personally, think if you have driven a 12mm hole you should use 12mm rod. I would agree with bigger washers - even more important if you are using 10mm rod.
Yes 12mm rod will be alot stronger
Good work, mate! Slowly good comes!! And learn right way do things! Littlebit a brainworks,bong and then slow motion doet!! You now what i mean! Everything good for you sailor!!
Take the cast curved bottom mast foot to an engine workshop with a head skimmer and get it 100% flat again for a very reasonable cost… good luck man.x
Use cobalt M35 drill bits, even the cheap ones for 20odd quids will work.
Also get yourself drill bits sharpenner (unless you already have a bench grinder and a good eye for sharpenning the drillbits by hand).
Hi - trust and hope that you are keeping well with all of the work on your awesome project. Just a suggestion... I would consider using stainless carriage bolts instead of the stainless threaded rod that is two mil smaller.I would also use bolts that are the exact same size of the holes you are drilling. Using larger fender washers for the bolts would always be a plus. Another suggestion would be to build a sturdy work platform as it will assist you in all of your work projects going forward. A solid pair of sawhorses with a fixed top will go long way.
Good investment that Makita. I got a 18v set 5 years ago. Not one tool has failed me to this day. Built 2 houses with it an havent been kind too them at all. May cost a pretty penny but they work and suffer loads of abuse without getting killed on the first day of use.
Bravo on the brakets / mounts!
Mate, i been watching you since week 1, your turning into quite the boat builder, you should be proud of yourself.
1 sujestion, learn howntonsharpen drill bits, not only will it save you $$££€€ but there will be times you just cant buy a new bit in time. You can sharpen them with as little as an angle grinder and a grinding wheel or flappy wheel (the type with all the flaps of sandpaper) but realpy you need a bench grinder. 30yrs ago i bought the daintiest peice of junk but was perfect for sharpening drill bits and damaged chisels etc
As for chisels i always sharpened them on a wet stone doing the angle by eye but mate, get one of those jigs that attach tonthe chissel and give you a perfect angle and the new diamond sharpening "stones". With zero effort i can get the chisel sharp as buggery in 2 min flat, makes your job easier and safer and less fristrating (and gives you something to do at night/rain days.
And drilling stainless, what you said was right, drill slow and lube up but also good pressure behind the drill.
Keep up the great work champ, youll be crossing oceans before you know it.
Cheers from the land down under
I think you would benefit from a sliding compound mitre saw, fitted with a metal blade, for cutting all that steel. Better still if you can find one with a variable speed motor.