Great minds think alike! Haha, I just recently bought the first two kits you recommend. I really didn't think I would use the 8mm socket for props but I've actually found it's much quicker easier than the wrench I was using before.
Thank you, this was one of the last things I needed to figure out before my first quad comes next week. Going to be relying heavily on your videos to figure things out. Thanks!
Small hint for identifying different tools for when you grab them quickly is coloured tape or heatshrink on the handles. Use different colours for example red for phillips, yellow for slot, and blue for nut drivers. Helps those of us who's eyes are not like they used to be. :-)
Stambo I color code all my tools at work ( I'm proffesional jeweller) and I have also different paterns engraved on file handles to help identify them quickly. I don't even have to think when reaching for tools now.
Keep going with this "series" Joshua. I love seeing what others have found regarding tools. For example, one of my very early adaptive mods I did with hex keys was to heat shrink a few pieces of on to provide grip. Heat shrink is an AMAZING versatile method to obtain a bit more grip on many different tools instead of going through the pain of 'dipping'.
Just getting into FPV Josh and have a ton of tools for automotive & carpentry, all of which are overkill for an FPV workbench or field backpack. The ones in your vid are perfect! Thanks.
I picked up the iFixit Pro Tech toolkit for both general computer/electronics tinkering, as well as quadcopter work, and while it is expensive, it is definitely worth the price, and gives you a TON of drivers to work with for just about everything: www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Pro-Tech-Toolkit/IF145-307-1
Hi josh. completely new to the hobby and I'm in desperate need of some help. sorry it's off topic. I received my shuriken x1 dsmx yesterday. I've been flying aircraft for years but never drones. I connected up to beta flight. Everything fine other than as the throttle was increased by a small amount the motors started spinning up by themselves. I was looking in the settings and reset them to default. Bad idea. I then lost all my radio functions to the drone. To top it off I then clicked the uart3 port and now it refuses to connect to beta flight to undo what I have done. Can someone please explain how to get reconnected and all sorted out? Massive thanks. Guy
My 2 cents: invest in a little bit of quality and buy the tools you need to buy only once. For nuts I use a small Bahco socket set with a ratchet, paid 25 euros for it and no regrets. For hex screws I've found that a lot of the cheaper drivers are too loose in the socket and damage the screws over time, but Torx drivers actually fit small hex sockets very nicely (T8 for 2mm hex and T10 for 2,5mm)
Joshua I hurt my skin on my fingers quite often when mounting or even dismounting props. My problem is always holding the motor bell while screwing the prop nuts. Lately I used gloves, but those gloves should have some gripping material otherwise the bell always slips and I am having difficulty to lock the prop and nut.
I take a small enough screwdriver -- Phillips better than straight blade -- put it off center through the the open webs at the top of the motor to lever one finger against the other. Straight across, not down into the windings, spanning two or three fingers. Too big a screwdriver won't fit, too small not strong enough. You should be able to tell.
i need new tools becouse like deadpool 2306 i dont have the hex to remove the bell screw and also hobbywing 2405 is same size. if i had money id buy only mip
Affiliate links with work involved such as a (honest) video or review, is how it is supposed to be. People just spamming them with zero effort, trying to make money is when I call people out haha.
Prop nuts. Found 3 useful items. 1. Cordless screwdriver & socket end 2. 8mm socket 3. Band Aids Also I'd really like to find a mini metric tube spanner set. Do these exist?? Thanks again Joshua.
I just built a new quad with used escs and fc. I'm getting what I assume are desyncs after a fast roll. Right as I stop the roll it will drop an arm then quickly recover. I tried reflashing to 3.1.6 but same issue. Could recalibrating possibly help? I've run the escs with this radio but not with this fc. Any suggestions? They're blheli-s running multishot with sp racing f3 and brand new cobra motors.
Self proclaimed professional at being an amature over here with a question. If my ESC's are rated to 30A, should both negative and positive wires be 30A rated if I am running 6S with red bottoms?
I could have used this video a month ago! but alas, I appreciate the idea~! I bought my Hex and Nut drivers (Banggood, 5-7$) each and got an 8-10mm ratchet wrench (ebay)3$. I have (screwdrivers) tweeker sets due to being an Electrician! and I also just ordered a 4-5.5-8-10mm wonder wing wrench (BG)4$.
Very nice hex driver set at a budget price. Some individual hex drivers will cost you the entire set price. I like the plastic knobs for the palm of you hand, to mark the mm size, to index the driver if your keeping track of rotations and to stash items inside. But they shouldn't just fall off. Have you ever run across the bastard .7 or .9 mm set screws that sometime secure the motor bell?
For prop nuts I really like the small prop tools like the one made by DYS. They have evert size you'd need and small enough that you could even put one on your keychain if you wanted to. I find them more comfortable for tightening props than a traditional screwdriver handle, too.
Love your videos... great for Beginners, Intermediate and Advanced flyers... Can you do a video on the correct way to use the "mid_rc" command, especially when using Futabas... unsure as to whether one should follow the 1520 settings, or trim out my TX to conform to the 1500 settings and completely ignore the "mid_rc" command... Thanks in advance...
Thank you Joshua, it's great for people like myself, complete novice at FPV, to find someone who has spent a lot of time within the hobby who has the time to share their knowledge of quadcopter design, building and flying. I watched with interest your series on pid tuning, could actually hear the difference in the motors when you described how each 'fault' can be detected and corrected! Please keep up the good work and thanks again 😊 (P.S. I can only fly LOS in Angle mode at the moment, FPV just doesn't seem to click yet).
M3 locknuts require a 5.5mm nut driver, for screws you can get a good husky kit from home depot (black plastic case) and for props I use one I got on amazon.
Hey so I'm still trying to get my buzzer to work I wired it to my 12v led leads and it started beeping constantly then I desoldered that and checked current agian and now I'm getting 3v to my buzzer from just buzzer wires to fc any ideas on how to get my battery Alarm working agian?
+Alex Dalton the buzzer positive lead goes to any voltage source. 5v is typical but many buzzers are rated for more, and will be louder on higher voltage. The buzzer negative lead goes to the negative buzzer pad or pin on the FC. This is switched and is what tells the buzzer to turn on or off.
Really wish someone would put together a single kit that only included the exact sizes needed. Most are so close, are only missing the prop nut socket.
I think you are missing a soldering iron? A hot glue gun? if its beginner maybe some sort of soldering station (spare hands + magnifying glass + light) is a good investment to? Whats wrong with using a Allen key for hex driver they are like $1 each (most will have a few around from flat pack furniture) if that and work just as good as a hex driver minus some ergonomics
+Side85Winder Allen keys have terrible ergonomics. Especially for one handed use. I used to use them before I bought these hex drivers. Terrible. As for the others, I'm sure I will get to them.
Fair enough, if i ever take this hobby serious i will be on the ultimate budget/ performance build making that shoe string budget stretch as far as possible. How long before we see some FHD quad camera's/ transmitters being more mainstream and reviewed?
skypilot 23 this one is awesome www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Intelligent-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature/dp/B0183RJIUE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489439161&sr=8-2&keywords=soldering+iron+sainsmart
Thank you. For me this is perfect. I'm just starting to get into this sport and started to look for small tool sets you took the guess work out of my search. I hate to buy things twice Again thank you...
It looks like the nut driver set is a right hand drive. Do you know if they make them for left as well? Tried doing a search but nothing came up. Love the vids :) Thanks in advance!
Digital Transplant ive heard of left handed scissors but never knew they made a left handed driver. i know the difference in the scissors but i cant even see how you can make a right or left hand driver.
I just went from 1032 to 1036 and it happened on the first roll but I did about 10 more and it seemed fine. I also recalibrated and the motors spin smoothly at 1020. One of the escs is missing some caps but that's not the arm that was dropping. Should I add a through hole cap to the one that's missing some?
Joshua Bardwell 10-4 good to know. I've always gone as low as they'll consistently spin +2 or 4. I've never had an issue before. I spend a lot of time inverted so I like it low. I think my issue is hardware related. Maybe a BB log will tell me something
Joshua Bardwell I reviewed some GoPro footage and it looks like it's the arm with the missing caps that's dropping. It's happening right when I get back on the throttle to catch the flip. This kind of makes sense since caps would help with initial "startup". I'm going to add a cap to that esc and see if it fixes the problem.
I added a cap to that esc, no change. I raised min throttle more, no change. I changed from multishot to oneshot125 and it hasn't happened since. Does that make any sense to you?
It would be nice if one of the FPV manufacturers would put together all of the nessecary tools in these catagory to get her and sell them. Annoying how you have to piece together a kit like this.
So you don't want to argue about the RaceFlight GPL stuff, so don't argue. You don't have to reply to comments you think don't have a valid point. It seems really slimy to me to disable comments on something where you ask people to correct you if you're wrong. Plus now we have to go to an unrelated video to comment (though I don't think I would have commented if the comments were enabled in the other video). I actually don't have a strong opinion about the RaceFlight stuff. I just have a strong opinion about leaving comments open.
+Duane Degn sorry, but I simply cannot spend all day arguing about the GPL which is what would happen if comments are on. It would swamp me with notifications and distract actual helpful, positive stuff. If somebody wants to correct me, there are a zillion ways to get in touch with me. I am hardly reclusive.
Sorry, I didn't think about the notification thing. I can see where that would be annoying. Thanks for the reply. In hindsight I should have sent this as a private message instead of cluttering up this comment section with an unrelated comment. Feel free to delete these comments. Edit: I'd delete my comment myself but I don't want to also delete your considerate reply.
Great minds think alike! Haha, I just recently bought the first two kits you recommend. I really didn't think I would use the 8mm socket for props but I've actually found it's much quicker easier than the wrench I was using before.
+carbonfire it also works on SMA nuts
Nice, I wouldn't have even thought to try it there.
Thank you, this was one of the last things I needed to figure out before my first quad comes next week. Going to be relying heavily on your videos to figure things out. Thanks!
Small hint for identifying different tools for when you grab them quickly is coloured tape or heatshrink on the handles.
Use different colours for example red for phillips, yellow for slot, and blue for nut drivers.
Helps those of us who's eyes are not like they used to be. :-)
Stambo I color code all my tools at work ( I'm proffesional jeweller) and I have also different paterns engraved on file handles to help identify them quickly. I don't even have to think when reaching for tools now.
Stambo , Yep, that's a good tip. Another is to use some paint on the end of the handle. A little dot of color helps a lot.
IMHO: [ cutter/tweezers/pliers ]: Knipex Tools
[ screwdrivers/nutdrivers/bits ]: Xcelite by Weller
Amazon has them.
Keep going with this "series" Joshua. I love seeing what others have found regarding tools.
For example, one of my very early adaptive mods I did with hex keys was to heat shrink a few pieces of on to provide grip. Heat shrink is an AMAZING versatile method to obtain a bit more grip on many different tools instead of going through the pain of 'dipping'.
Check out MIP drivers. They are the top of the line.
Just getting into FPV Josh and have a ton of tools for automotive & carpentry, all of which are overkill for an FPV workbench or field backpack. The ones in your vid are perfect! Thanks.
I like carrying a metric Crescent wrench too. Thanks Mr JB
I picked up the iFixit Pro Tech toolkit for both general computer/electronics tinkering, as well as quadcopter work, and while it is expensive, it is definitely worth the price, and gives you a TON of drivers to work with for just about everything: www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Pro-Tech-Toolkit/IF145-307-1
Starting on fpv, bought everything under the sun but this, came here to see what to get to open this iflight green hornet
Glad you're giving affiliate links a try. I think as long as you believe in the product, it's good for everyone.
Hi josh. completely new to the hobby and I'm in desperate need of some help. sorry it's off topic. I received my shuriken x1 dsmx yesterday. I've been flying aircraft for years but never drones. I connected up to beta flight. Everything fine other than as the throttle was increased by a small amount the motors started spinning up by themselves. I was looking in the settings and reset them to default. Bad idea. I then lost all my radio functions to the drone. To top it off I then clicked the uart3 port and now it refuses to connect to beta flight to undo what I have done. Can someone please explain how to get reconnected and all sorted out? Massive thanks. Guy
My 2 cents: invest in a little bit of quality and buy the tools you need to buy only once. For nuts I use a small Bahco socket set with a ratchet, paid 25 euros for it and no regrets. For hex screws I've found that a lot of the cheaper drivers are too loose in the socket and damage the screws over time, but Torx drivers actually fit small hex sockets very nicely (T8 for 2mm hex and T10 for 2,5mm)
Nothing wrong with affiliate links, IMHO. You did the work and are being transparent. What's the problem?
7PCS Stainless Steel Hex Screw Driver Kit can be used for models of cars, helicopters, planes and more. (from banggood) all u need in 1 pack
Joshua I hurt my skin on my fingers quite often when mounting or even dismounting props. My problem is always holding the motor bell while screwing the prop nuts. Lately I used gloves, but those gloves should have some gripping material otherwise the bell always slips and I am having difficulty to lock the prop and nut.
maverick-san Check this out hobbyking.com/en_us/rcl-ap-1a.html
I take a small enough screwdriver -- Phillips better than straight blade -- put it off center through the the open webs at the top of the motor to lever one finger against the other.
Straight across, not down into the windings, spanning two or three fingers. Too big a screwdriver won't fit, too small not strong enough. You should be able to tell.
Way too thick for motors with guards though.
a piece of rubber tube or latex would do. Holds the bell pretty well
Thanks guys
i need new tools becouse like deadpool 2306 i dont have the hex to remove the bell screw and also hobbywing 2405 is same size. if i had money id buy only mip
Beginners should also consider a wrench set from 3.2 mm up to 6.5mm diameter!
This is what I missed when I started ! So important to have nice tools. Nice content Joshua, as always.
Affiliate links with work involved such as a (honest) video or review, is how it is supposed to be. People just spamming them with zero effort, trying to make money is when I call people out haha.
Prop nuts. Found 3 useful items.
1. Cordless screwdriver & socket end
2. 8mm socket
3. Band Aids
Also I'd really like to find a mini metric tube spanner set.
Do these exist??
Thanks again Joshua.
I use liquid skin now..... and i keep my fingers out of the way bc OMG those blades are sharp
I just built a new quad with used escs and fc. I'm getting what I assume are desyncs after a fast roll. Right as I stop the roll it will drop an arm then quickly recover. I tried reflashing to 3.1.6 but same issue. Could recalibrating possibly help? I've run the escs with this radio but not with this fc. Any suggestions? They're blheli-s running multishot with sp racing f3 and brand new cobra motors.
+DrFuNK raise min_throttle
Self proclaimed professional at being an amature over here with a question. If my ESC's are rated to 30A, should both negative and positive wires be 30A rated if I am running 6S with red bottoms?
+Andrew Demczuk 18 or 20 gauge is typical for ESC wires.
is he an android ? its hard to tell these days,,,
I could have used this video a month ago! but alas, I appreciate the idea~! I bought my Hex and Nut drivers (Banggood, 5-7$) each and got an 8-10mm ratchet wrench (ebay)3$. I have (screwdrivers) tweeker sets due to being an Electrician! and I also just ordered a 4-5.5-8-10mm wonder wing wrench (BG)4$.
How about a micro quad? Will these cover everything? thx
+SPL sure. I mean there's always some oddball.
Very nice hex driver set at a budget price. Some individual hex drivers will cost you the entire set price. I like the plastic knobs for the palm of you hand, to mark the mm size, to index the driver if your keeping track of rotations and to stash items inside. But they shouldn't just fall off. Have you ever run across the bastard .7 or .9 mm set screws that sometime secure the motor bell?
For prop nuts I really like the small prop tools like the one made by DYS. They have evert size you'd need and small enough that you could even put one on your keychain if you wanted to. I find them more comfortable for tightening props than a traditional screwdriver handle, too.
Love your videos... great for Beginners, Intermediate and Advanced flyers...
Can you do a video on the correct way to use the "mid_rc" command, especially when using Futabas... unsure as to whether one should follow the 1520 settings, or trim out my TX to conform to the 1500 settings and completely ignore the "mid_rc" command...
Thanks in advance...
Thank you Joshua, it's great for people like myself, complete novice at FPV, to find someone who has spent a lot of time within the hobby who has the time to share their knowledge of quadcopter design, building and flying. I watched with interest your series on pid tuning, could actually hear the difference in the motors when you described how each 'fault' can be detected and corrected! Please keep up the good work and thanks again 😊 (P.S. I can only fly LOS in Angle mode at the moment, FPV just doesn't seem to click yet).
M3 locknuts require a 5.5mm nut driver, for screws you can get a good husky kit from home depot (black plastic case) and for props I use one I got on amazon.
Hey so I'm still trying to get my buzzer to work I wired it to my 12v led leads and it started beeping constantly then I desoldered that and checked current agian and now I'm getting 3v to my buzzer from just buzzer wires to fc any ideas on how to get my battery Alarm working agian?
+Alex Dalton the buzzer positive lead goes to any voltage source. 5v is typical but many buzzers are rated for more, and will be louder on higher voltage. The buzzer negative lead goes to the negative buzzer pad or pin on the FC. This is switched and is what tells the buzzer to turn on or off.
Joshua Bardwell thanks fried a camera today plugged up and saw smoke from camera lol foxteer mini Amazon sending it back a week old lol
Really wish someone would put together a single kit that only included the exact sizes needed. Most are so close, are only missing the prop nut socket.
I think you are missing a soldering iron? A hot glue gun? if its beginner maybe some sort of soldering station (spare hands + magnifying glass + light) is a good investment to?
Whats wrong with using a Allen key for hex driver they are like $1 each (most will have a few around from flat pack furniture) if that and work just as good as a hex driver minus some ergonomics
+Side85Winder Allen keys have terrible ergonomics. Especially for one handed use. I used to use them before I bought these hex drivers. Terrible.
As for the others, I'm sure I will get to them.
Fair enough, if i ever take this hobby serious i will be on the ultimate budget/ performance build making that shoe string budget stretch as far as possible. How long before we see some FHD quad camera's/ transmitters being more mainstream and reviewed?
looking forward to a soldering iron for circuit boards recommendation?
thanks Joshua
Agreed! My Radio Shack Iron SUCKS.
Hakko FX888D
skypilot 23 this one is awesome www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Intelligent-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature/dp/B0183RJIUE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489439161&sr=8-2&keywords=soldering+iron+sainsmart
Thank you. For me this is perfect. I'm just starting to get into this sport and started to look for small tool sets you took the guess work out of my search. I hate to buy things twice Again thank you...
Hello,
I checked the link for the nut driver set. And the smallest head size is 4mm. Does it still work with M3 nut/lock nut?
M3 nut uses a 5.5mm driver.
Thank you Sir
I wish you did the affiliate links, i thought they were and ordered them. I think most of us like affiliate links.
Thank you for taking the time to help us new to the world of quadcopters. It is hard to not feel intimidated by it all.
Lowe's has an RC model tool kit I believe it was under 20 bucks comes with a case
remember always to tell us the click like if the end of the video I forget so many times and I wish I would have
im loving this series of videos. im just getting into the hobby and they are helping a ton! Thank you!
thx
*Yesss, Ive been lost for a few months, I have always had saws, drills, everything but hobby tools. Thanks!!*
You should talk about endpoints, confused the hell out of me, first time I setup my fc
this is my favorite multi-tool with flat, cross, hex standard and metric.
where do you get that grey organizer for acres and stuff in the background
Everything Proxxon are pro grade tools for hobby prices.
It looks like the nut driver set is a right hand drive. Do you know if they make them for left as well? Tried doing a search but nothing came up. Love the vids :) Thanks in advance!
+Digital Transplant I'm not really sure what you're talking about. The drivers work both directions.
Digital Transplant ive heard of left handed scissors but never knew they made a left handed driver. i know the difference in the scissors but i cant even see how you can make a right or left hand driver.
:) Sorry, I have a bad sense of humor.
thanks i Just startet On buying tool so I Can get a build going
I just went from 1032 to 1036 and it happened on the first roll but I did about 10 more and it seemed fine. I also recalibrated and the motors spin smoothly at 1020. One of the escs is missing some caps but that's not the arm that was dropping. Should I add a through hole cap to the one that's missing some?
+DrFuNK 15 us between spin up and min_throttle is the absolute minimum I would use. 20 or 25 is safer.
Joshua Bardwell 10-4 good to know. I've always gone as low as they'll consistently spin +2 or 4. I've never had an issue before. I spend a lot of time inverted so I like it low. I think my issue is hardware related. Maybe a BB log will tell me something
Joshua Bardwell I reviewed some GoPro footage and it looks like it's the arm with the missing caps that's dropping. It's happening right when I get back on the throttle to catch the flip. This kind of makes sense since caps would help with initial "startup". I'm going to add a cap to that esc and see if it fixes the problem.
I added a cap to that esc, no change. I raised min throttle more, no change. I changed from multishot to oneshot125 and it hasn't happened since. Does that make any sense to you?
Helipal.com has a decent "grab and go kit" for a good price
I respect your skirt/kilt, your style game is strong
Your a good man Joshua! Love the info
Good Stuff
Great advice as usual!👍👍👏
drone nut. is for droning
It would be nice if one of the FPV manufacturers would put together all of the nessecary tools in these catagory to get her and sell them. Annoying how you have to piece together a kit like this.
Nathan Schlenker helipad.com grab and go kit
Nathan Schlenker helipal.com , sorry typo
Thanks bud
So you don't want to argue about the RaceFlight GPL stuff, so don't argue. You don't have to reply to comments you think don't have a valid point. It seems really slimy to me to disable comments on something where you ask people to correct you if you're wrong.
Plus now we have to go to an unrelated video to comment (though I don't think I would have commented if the comments were enabled in the other video).
I actually don't have a strong opinion about the RaceFlight stuff. I just have a strong opinion about leaving comments open.
+Duane Degn sorry, but I simply cannot spend all day arguing about the GPL which is what would happen if comments are on. It would swamp me with notifications and distract actual helpful, positive stuff. If somebody wants to correct me, there are a zillion ways to get in touch with me. I am hardly reclusive.
Sorry, I didn't think about the notification thing. I can see where that would be annoying.
Thanks for the reply. In hindsight I should have sent this as a private message instead of cluttering up this comment section with an unrelated comment.
Feel free to delete these comments.
Edit: I'd delete my comment myself but I don't want to also delete your considerate reply.
Thanks J money. You know it got so bad at one point grinding down hex bits, that i actually spent my life savings on a NAPA set.