Awesome video. Keep that shutter speed higher for sharp images too. If you have to stop down, and hold a higher shutter speed (1/250 + etc) then just let the ISO go a little higher. It’s fine. It’s better to have a sharp image at a higher ISO than a blurry image at ISO 100... 👍
You can also underexpose and recover in post to keep the ISO from adding too much noise when you have a great shutter speed. You can't deliver noisy photos.
@@dansteinbok7955 But be careful as underexposing will lead to noise even in ISO 100. I have seen that a lot recently even with a well exposed image. I would not recommend underexposing for that reason. I saw a video of a landscape photographer recently who said he will tend to overexposed instead of underexposed contradictory of what you might hear often. The reason is that highlights can be easier restored than people think while shadows tend to show noise which may not be recovered without loosing a lot of details and quality.
@@Seitenwerk I've found that also. I think a lot of these tips get taken as gospel for all systems, but it really comes down to the camera. With my Sony, I know that I can recover highlights much easier than bring back shadows. I used to underexpose as per the advice when starting out....I've found that actually doesn't help at all. I'd rather have an even level of grain in the image than just noisy shadows too...and as for being able to bring up exposure in post to avoid noise, you can also use the same tools to reduce noise. So it really comes down to one's tools, and their expertise with them.
Thank you Pye. This was very helpful. Shooting portraits wide open is such a struggle for me, more particularly, if I am shooting more than one subject. Thank you for this.
Thank you. Finally - a You Tube video that gets to the point and provides top quality information. I also agree with Wild Bill and set my minimum shutter speed to 125 when shooting Av. A bit of noise is way easier to deal with than a blurred image
62 people thumbed down this video but honestly, there was absolutely no bad information given. Pye gave really sound advice...especially for a world that seems to expect professional photography = shallow depth of field.
I think this is the first one I've seen (and I've watched a lot) that doesn't just parrot the same things like aperture and shutter speed. Sure, you have to address these, but you also expanded on other factors that will affect the picture.
Good point. Focus is always your nemesis, im always pushing the limits with shallow depth vs Sharpness but even more importantly is the lighting on the faces. Especially in deep shade or in these tree bush environments, sometimes depends which way the light is coming in, its not always flattering and a big reflector is really handy especially for those closeups. another option is sometimes i bring in an off camera flash with a softener to help with contrasty natural light.
Excellent tutorial, the tip ref' lining your subjects up has explained a lot, common sense really but made me realise how important dof can be, thank you
Thank you for another great video, your techniques and tips are brilliant! I learnt the hard way that focus is not always accurate-I shot a wedding where many of the photos were slightly out of focus. The camera was near new second hand 5DIV. When I sent it away for repair, they found the Auto Focus Sensors were dirty. Now it locks on to subject very well, even using through the lens focusing. I know Mirrorless AF would be better, but I'm a long way from affording that! It's easy to test each lens at all apertures in 1/3 stop increments by using a tripod and then assessing at 100% on the computer. I know the safest wide aperture for all my lenses, it helps to reduce chance of soft images. Thanks again, your content is very helpful.
I find this video very useful. I learned something new today about the distance that could affect how deep the DOF would be. I consider myself new to photography, bought my sony a6400 early this year hoping to can make side pocket out of it. Thank you. P/S: Your voice is so soothing. It's like I'm listening to a midnight show on a radio while driving in a cold night.
Thanks Pi I think I might be addicted to wide open right now so what you said at the end about “ Don’t let depth become a crutch for you compositionally” I am pretty guilty of that lol.
A movie comes to mind while watching this, The Wedding Singer. There's a scene in there where Adam Sandler's character screams "Something I've should have been told yesterday". Or in my case three weeks ago for an event shoot(my first and non paid) where I shot everything wide open. Images came out ok and the client was satisfied. But I should have known. Chalk it up to being nervous. Thank you Pye for putting this out there love your content.
Needed this for today, been struggling with sharpness and I've just completely ignored Focus thinking the camera can do it adequately (I am an intermediate/expert user, but still very much learning and beginner when it comes to portraits and groups). Huge huge learning curve coming from my favorites of product and landscapes. Your photos are absolutely stunning btw.
Listening to you really makes me take a second look at my Sigma 35mm ART lens. So if I may ask, shooting anything that moves Beit a duck or a bride, it's strongly suggested that I not shoot in 1.4 but instead, try f/2 or above? Shooting landscape should be the only thing I shoot below 1.8 or wide open!!
Good advice, presented very clearly and enjoyably. I'm looking forward to your next video presentation - whatever and whenever it might be! I recently had a portrait session with a baby and his parents, and was disappointed to see the father out-of-focus in some of the shots.
Brilliant tips. I still use a monopod for most and tripod if I'm doing more. handheld looks cool but tires quickly w/ heavy gear & noddlely arms. hehe.
Great video!!! I still don't understand how you get such a crisp photo with a wide open aperture with the family of four standing so far away (3:58)?? Help?
The big takeaway here and the one I see the most that people forget is where you are focusing (eye AF is very helpful) and using the proper aperture and realy understanding how DOF works. I think people get in this mindset of shooting wide open but perhaps are too close to the subject, where DOF maybe too shallow to a point where the eye might be in focus, but the nose or ears won't. Using a DOF scale or table is also helpful for those who perhaps struggle with the concept.
Hello, is it possible to switch from A mode to M mode preserving current settings for aperture, shutter speed, ISO? Just like TCM button on Godox‘s X-pro flash trigger.
Quick question. You mentioned verifying sharpness in one of the bonus tips. How is that done other than viewing the image on the LCD? If that''s it, is it good enough to use? Just curious. I had been just using the lcd to check exposure, hadn't thought to use it to check for sharpness because everyone says it's not good enough quality to really rely on. Thanks
Tip#4, add distance to the subject, is good but may need cropping unless a panoramic is the need. So its a balance between F1.4 to F2.8 or stepping back. Getting close to subject as it is adds bokeh to the background, so stopping down to F2.8 or even F4 wont hurt the blur background if I stay close if needed. Thank you.
Hey! Im a beginner photographer that own a nikon d700 and a prime 50mm 1.8. Ive been struggling with focus on f/2.8 for full body photos since most of the time the face isnt completely focused. I focus on the eyes but since i have no eye tracker nor that pixel focus you talked about ive been struggling. I really cannot afford upgrading my camera body nor lense atm but id really love to capture that amazing bukeh while having my models in focus. Do you have any tips ? Thank you for your time.
So if you use face and eye detection in a group picture doesn’t that only choose one individual? the others would be out of focus? What focus option would be best suitable for this scenario?
Verifying the focus has always seemed to be the most obvious thing in the world to me. Even when I was a kid with zero instruction on photography, I was ALWAYS zooming in between shots to see if they were in focus. But for some bizarre reason, most people simply…don't. I will never understand it. Even on my EOS R, in some lighting conditions and zooms and subject-matter, I've still had front-focused shots, particularly with the EF 70-200 2.8 gen 3. It's one of the reasons I recently upgraded to the much faster and much more accurate RF version. But even on the R I never have been able to fully trust it. I'm anxious to upgrade to the new bodies but am waiting on the 90MP R5s coming in Feb/Mar 2021. I can't wait to finally be able to trust my lenses and focusing system and just shoot without checking. But until then, verifying the focus is absolute muscle memory for me.
I really like the post processing on the family photos. Anyone have tips to get that look? Is it turn down the contrast? It’s hard for me to get photos like that cause I’m color blind so I tend to boost the contrast a little.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
The last bit about “using depth as a compositional crutch” damn....I’m gonna really try and remember that. Thank you.
Great video.
Same!! Got me right in the trigger finger!
Your tutorials are no nonsense, to the point and informative. Thank you for making these videos very easy to follow.
Pye is my new favorite person for photo tutorials no lie
Awesome video.
Keep that shutter speed higher for sharp images too. If you have to stop down, and hold a higher shutter speed (1/250 + etc) then just let the ISO go a little higher. It’s fine. It’s better to have a sharp image at a higher ISO than a blurry image at ISO 100... 👍
You can also underexpose and recover in post to keep the ISO from adding too much noise when you have a great shutter speed. You can't deliver noisy photos.
@@dansteinbok7955 But be careful as underexposing will lead to noise even in ISO 100. I have seen that a lot recently even with a well exposed image. I would not recommend underexposing for that reason.
I saw a video of a landscape photographer recently who said he will tend to overexposed instead of underexposed contradictory of what you might hear often. The reason is that highlights can be easier restored than people think while shadows tend to show noise which may not be recovered without loosing a lot of details and quality.
@@Seitenwerk I've found that also. I think a lot of these tips get taken as gospel for all systems, but it really comes down to the camera. With my Sony, I know that I can recover highlights much easier than bring back shadows. I used to underexpose as per the advice when starting out....I've found that actually doesn't help at all. I'd rather have an even level of grain in the image than just noisy shadows too...and as for being able to bring up exposure in post to avoid noise, you can also use the same tools to reduce noise. So it really comes down to one's tools, and their expertise with them.
Thanks,I wish to study more on photography in U.K
its all about balance after all
Thank you Pye. This was very helpful. Shooting portraits wide open is such a struggle for me, more particularly, if I am shooting more than one subject. Thank you for this.
What an awesome video!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the tips and information!!!
Pye, you are a fantastic teacher. I have watched so many of your videos and each time I walk away with so many wonderful tips.
Thank you. Finally - a You Tube video that gets to the point and provides top quality information. I also agree with Wild Bill and set my minimum shutter speed to 125 when shooting Av. A bit of noise is way easier to deal with than a blurred image
62 people thumbed down this video but honestly, there was absolutely no bad information given. Pye gave really sound advice...especially for a world that seems to expect professional photography = shallow depth of field.
This is hands down, one of the most helpful tips I’ve watched regarding photography!😊👍
I think this is the first one I've seen (and I've watched a lot) that doesn't just parrot the same things like aperture and shutter speed. Sure, you have to address these, but you also expanded on other factors that will affect the picture.
Hi Pye you are absolutely right because I had those bad shots experience
One of the best focusing videos in youtube. I made so many shooting too close to the subject mistakes to count.
Thank you I learned more in this short Video than reading the instructions Manual!
Good point. Focus is always your nemesis, im always pushing the limits with shallow depth vs Sharpness but even more importantly is the lighting on the faces. Especially in deep shade or in these tree bush environments, sometimes depends which way the light is coming in, its not always flattering and a big reflector is really handy especially for those closeups. another option is sometimes i bring in an off camera flash with a softener to help with contrasty natural light.
Excellent tutorial, the tip ref' lining your subjects up has explained a lot, common sense really but made me realise how important dof can be, thank you
Thank you for another great video, your techniques and tips are brilliant! I learnt the hard way that focus is not always accurate-I shot a wedding where many of the photos were slightly out of focus. The camera was near new second hand 5DIV. When I sent it away for repair, they found the Auto Focus Sensors were dirty. Now it locks on to subject very well, even using through the lens focusing. I know Mirrorless AF would be better, but I'm a long way from affording that! It's easy to test each lens at all apertures in 1/3 stop increments by using a tripod and then assessing at 100% on the computer. I know the safest wide aperture for all my lenses, it helps to reduce chance of soft images. Thanks again, your content is very helpful.
Have to save this one!! So many great tips! Wish I found this over the weekend!
What fantastic photos, what a great voice and what a delightful learning experience!
Wow... packed with great tips. I’m gonna have to watch this a few times.
Subscribed to SLR Lounge. Thanks Adorama TV 👍🏻
I find this video very useful. I learned something new today about the distance that could affect how deep the DOF would be. I consider myself new to photography, bought my sony a6400 early this year hoping to can make side pocket out of it. Thank you.
P/S: Your voice is so soothing. It's like I'm listening to a midnight show on a radio while driving in a cold night.
Nice!
on a side note: Is it me or Pye sometimes sounds just like Tony?
Thanks Pi I think I might be addicted to wide open right now so what you said at the end about “ Don’t let depth become a crutch for you compositionally” I am pretty guilty of that lol.
A movie comes to mind while watching this, The Wedding Singer. There's a scene in there where Adam Sandler's character screams "Something I've should have been told yesterday". Or in my case three weeks ago for an event shoot(my first and non paid) where I shot everything wide open. Images came out ok and the client was satisfied. But I should have known. Chalk it up to being nervous.
Thank you Pye for putting this out there love your content.
Awesome teaching!! Kudos to you Sir!
Great to get these tips out their, they also serve as continual reminders, some great tips in the comments too. Thanks for the video Pye. 👍👌📸
Needed this for today, been struggling with sharpness and I've just completely ignored Focus thinking the camera can do it adequately (I am an intermediate/expert user, but still very much learning and beginner when it comes to portraits and groups). Huge huge learning curve coming from my favorites of product and landscapes. Your photos are absolutely stunning btw.
Listening to you really makes me take a second look at my Sigma 35mm ART lens.
So if I may ask, shooting anything that moves Beit a duck or a bride, it's strongly suggested that I not shoot in 1.4 but instead, try f/2 or above?
Shooting landscape should be the only thing I shoot below 1.8 or wide open!!
Good advice, presented very clearly and enjoyably. I'm looking forward to your next video presentation - whatever and whenever it might be! I recently had a portrait session with a baby and his parents, and was disappointed to see the father out-of-focus in some of the shots.
Brilliant tips. I still use a monopod for most and tripod if I'm doing more. handheld looks cool but tires quickly w/ heavy gear & noddlely arms. hehe.
Great video!!! I still don't understand how you get such a crisp photo with a wide open aperture with the family of four standing so far away (3:58)?? Help?
Great video!! Super helpful! Thanks for sharing!!
great tips! Definitely have used tons of these when shooting groups.
shooting at f1.2, how can the mom holding the baby at 3:56 have sharp eyes as well as sharp fingernails way out in front holding the baby's head?
Thanks PYE! You just saved me alot of headaches!😇🙏📷📸
Thanks for the info Pye. U enjoyed the video bro.
Great advices! Thank you very much.
The big takeaway here and the one I see the most that people forget is where you are focusing (eye AF is very helpful) and using the proper aperture and realy understanding how DOF works. I think people get in this mindset of shooting wide open but perhaps are too close to the subject, where DOF maybe too shallow to a point where the eye might be in focus, but the nose or ears won't. Using a DOF scale or table is also helpful for those who perhaps struggle with the concept.
Perfect video. Impeccable delivery. Thank you for posting this.
Thus helped with so much. It’s hard to follow the same plane though when you work with running and very active children’.
Thanks for the great tips learned a lot. ❤️❤️❤️ Keep up the good work 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Hello, is it possible to switch from A mode to M mode preserving current settings for aperture, shutter speed, ISO?
Just like TCM button on Godox‘s X-pro flash trigger.
Every Photog should know these tips but getting reminded is needed.
Simply put, thank you.
This video was so insightful!! Thank you
although one thinks that he already knew all of the tips, but the instruction was really useful. Thanks.
Extremely excellent learning session. Thank you
Quick question. You mentioned verifying sharpness in one of the bonus tips. How is that done other than viewing the image on the LCD? If that''s it, is it good enough to use? Just curious. I had been just using the lcd to check exposure, hadn't thought to use it to check for sharpness because everyone says it's not good enough quality to really rely on. Thanks
Pye stays with the gems.
Awesome advice, thanks Pye
Very informative! Thanks for sharing such a great knowledge 🙏🏼
This content is Gold.
Great Video!
One of the best explanation
Thank you
Tip#4, add distance to the subject, is good but may need cropping unless a panoramic is the need. So its a balance between F1.4 to F2.8 or stepping back. Getting close to subject as it is adds bokeh to the background, so stopping down to F2.8 or even F4 wont hurt the blur background if I stay close if needed. Thank you.
your content is gold !
So well spoken. Great tips thank u.
Fabulous!! Thanks so much!
A very good video. I’ve been nervous of shooting wide open but have been practicing lately. Thanks for the advice
Definitely, something to practice, appreciate it Dwan!
The location on this videos is amazing, where is it? Looks magical those trees
Astonishing quality video
Great tut , thank you .
Tip 4 was the best, I didn’t know that thanks
Wow! Tips that change your photography.
Hi, nice tips, love it
Is there a video on how to set the aperture when group is not linear ?
Cheers
This series is great! Thank you 🙏
Awesome video! Thanks for the tips will definitely try them out.
The best tutor always!!
if you have multiple subjects and use eye/face detection, do you pick the centre subject to focus on? or do you pick a region (mode) for focus?
Very good video .me and my photographar friends Like this video very very much.
Thanks Sir.
Another excellent video Pye
Yay!
Beautifully explained! Just the information I needed
Hey! Im a beginner photographer that own a nikon d700 and a prime 50mm 1.8. Ive been struggling with focus on f/2.8 for full body photos since most of the time the face isnt completely focused. I focus on the eyes but since i have no eye tracker nor that pixel focus you talked about ive been struggling. I really cannot afford upgrading my camera body nor lense atm but id really love to capture that amazing bukeh while having my models in focus. Do you have any tips ? Thank you for your time.
Awesome, informative video
What about those shooting slr manual cam?
Thanks Pye 🤘🏻
Thank you for the tips
Very clear explanation! Thank you! Very helpful! 😊
Great video! Awesome tips! Thank you!
So if you use face and eye detection in a group picture doesn’t that only choose one individual? the others would be out of focus? What focus option would be best suitable for this scenario?
Same question
Best vid I’ve watched! Thanks 🙏🏻
those photos are gorgeous!
Great work Pye! Brilliant to make my comment short! Cheers
The explanation is so clear. Thank you
Love these tips, thanks so much
Nice one Pye. Thank you 👌🏾
I love your colour palette 👌
I'm from Brasil and you are very very very good!
I have Sony a6000 n I wanna shoot maternity photos in the garden, which lens is recommend? Prime, portrait lens-sigma 56mm or wide angle lens?
Verifying the focus has always seemed to be the most obvious thing in the world to me. Even when I was a kid with zero instruction on photography, I was ALWAYS zooming in between shots to see if they were in focus. But for some bizarre reason, most people simply…don't. I will never understand it. Even on my EOS R, in some lighting conditions and zooms and subject-matter, I've still had front-focused shots, particularly with the EF 70-200 2.8 gen 3. It's one of the reasons I recently upgraded to the much faster and much more accurate RF version. But even on the R I never have been able to fully trust it. I'm anxious to upgrade to the new bodies but am waiting on the 90MP R5s coming in Feb/Mar 2021. I can't wait to finally be able to trust my lenses and focusing system and just shoot without checking. But until then, verifying the focus is absolute muscle memory for me.
Definitely 👍
This presentation is slick... Nice
Thank you Pye, súper good like always, I would love to know it's about that preset, I just love it!
Super good video! Thank you
Quality snaps of the family.
Extremely useful and to the point! Thank you
Great tutorial thank you
I really like the post processing on the family photos. Anyone have tips to get that look? Is it turn down the contrast? It’s hard for me to get photos like that cause I’m color blind so I tend to boost the contrast a little.
You need to buy a preset. It will save you a lot of trouble or use light room.
I want to learn how to create this type of filter. Thank you
Very well said.
Appreciate it Nigel!