"omg it's so much easier to print resin than fdm let me show you" > proceeds with the gooiest, smelliest most annoying process ever and has to waste 1/3 bottle as soon as there is any delamination. >oh, and make sure to have an exhaust to vent out all the cancerougenic vomit endusing fumes
As a user of both, FDM is just so much easier. The trade off is the detail. I only use resin because I have to. The prints are amazing, not a single layer line, just plastic-y shiny results. But it’s a toxic dirty long process. I love being able to set FDM and walk away. And then just pop it off the plate and IT’S DONE. Both have strengths and weaknesses, I print in resin much more, but FDM is much easier.
Easy ,yes ,but its messy ,yuo need gloves ,alchol ,a setup , that very quickly is all cover with toxyc resin , so not so easy , then yuo need sometimes change the fep, clean the vat , the smell , i use a respirator when i clean in the uv machine , soo
Failures? Had mine for 2 years and only failures are when changing to drastically different resins or I fail to properly support the print. Once I get a design printing well its incredibly easy to do beyond the cleaning which is not fun at all.
@@ChrisHarmon1 for most people, resin printing just isnt worth it at all. Filaments can make you sick too, but resin is just so much worse and more messy that its not even fun anymore.
I normally run 15 seconds for the 3 bottom layers, then 4 sec for the rest. It is a good setting and clean surfaces. The stickiness you feel is normal. Where the stickiness comes from is the unchained bonds of the negative polymer and washes away, then subsides over time. Because flexible resins are not 100% accurate just yet, what we are able to purchase is not exact measurements but close enough to use, they will get better over time, but for now they are hazardous until hardened. Something to keep in mind, looking at resins from the chemical aspect, the only dangerous part is the positive additive to the polymer. The positive is added as the bonding agent when exposed to UV light, once that bond is made, the additive becomes inert and no longer poses a danger, it become neutral once exposed or activated. When you look at epoxy resins the same basic idea is used, only the positive additive of epoxy is ...well epoxy +, it is activated by oxygen. When you have a negative chemical and want it to harden, you add a positive in controlled amounts to achieve the hardness you want or require. Once the exposure happens, the chemical becomes inert and is then safe to handle. I hope this helps.
7:15 - Rebound. That's the reason I wanted to watch this video. All of the low durometer resins I've tried are expensive and they have very slow rebound properties, very consistent with your results in this video. That would be good in some energy absorbing applications but I have a product I'm trying to migrate to additive manufacturing that needs fast rebound. I love resin printing for the excellent surface finish and much more isotropic physical properties (essentially no interlayer weakness), but I definitely would not say it's easier. I LOL'd when you made that claim. I FDM print a lot of TPU for my business. No heated bed. It prints slowly but it's an unattended process so that doesn't really matter. When a bed full of parts is finished ten hours later, I pluck them off and press the Print Again button. No scraping, no alcohol washing and rinsing, no drying, no UV post cure, no stinky carcinogenic chemicals, no rubber gloves, no sticky mess all over everything, no filtering a vat of resin with little detached chunks. 95A or 98A TPU is easy to FDM print. 30-45 mm/s for everything. Slow and steady. I use 2-3 mm of retraction. Select Avoid Crossing Perimeters in the slicer and paint a layer change seam someplace inconspicuous. Direct drive extruder and you may need to recalibrate E steps to get the proper extrusion rate to avoid under extrusion. Hang the reel above on a bearing hub spool holder and feed the filament directly into the top of the extruder with no reverse Bowden. On a textured PEI build plate, I don't even use any bed heating and some of the parts I print are tall, thin, and have very little bed contact area. High acceleration and fast moves would cause the tall thin parts to deform under acceleration and the upper portion of the parts would have a rough surface. Up to 45 degree overhangs are OK. Avoid overhanging arches, and avoid straight 45 degree overhangs that end at a peak (use a 3-5 mm flat top bridge instead). Rafts and supports are a disaster so just don't. Avoid large bed contact areas because TPU sticks so well. I'll design the part with grooves if it requires a large bed contact area. Exporting a sparse infill model to resin print is a cool hack. New to me. Thanks!
Sirayatech is something i'd love to see, they even recommend mixing up their flex stuff with their strong-af stuff in various % depending on where to use it
Resin is the hardest way to print, especially with how toxic the resin is, fdm its just slice, print, remove supports, use. But resin ads in washing, drying, and curing and on top of that until you get to curing, you're handling something thats toxic and shouldn't be touched at all.
As someone who has only ever FDM printed in PLA+, and resin printed in standard SurayaTech Grey, this was fascinating. Would love to see how the tough resins compare. Also, I'm not sure if this is something you'd be interested in making, but it'd be great to see a vid on your process of actually designing and modelling these custom parts. Can't wait for the next one, the videos on this channel have been intriguing and very entertaining
Always be mixing resin. They are all photo activated. So as long as they don't separate too bad you're good to go. I've never had a single resin work better than mixing multiple resins.
I was trying so many different resins and mixes for drone parts to keep the stability with shock resistance I'm excited theirs new resins on the market :)
This looks suspiciously like a resin we use to make earmoulds for hearing aid patients. It's usually cured using xenon flash bulbs under nitrogen.. but no idea how that could be adapted to a 'consumer grade' solution
@@johnd6487 The problem is the oxygen in the air, which blocks the curing process. In the medical field, you probably want to be safe and guarantee that no cured material comes into contact with the patient. Some oxygen could still be dissolved in the water, which could then cause irritation or similar. However, the result with water is already very good for me. But I don't have permanent skin contact.
When it comes to any TPU, you have to pay very close attention to the properties of the TPU. For instance, ninjaflex is extremely flexible compared to normal TPU. The same goes for resin. You can end up with really strange versions of TPU and almost none of them are the same.
I wanted to see how they look... Have you cleaned them with clean alcohol before curing? It all looked gooey even after cured. It is a pity you didn't mount the parts on a drone in this video... Waiting for the actual test! The flex is amazing!
Regarding the vat cleaning function, I recommend this procedure which I have been using for years. When you print something, don't throw away the supports. Keep aside those 4 cm tall and above. The pieces must have at least 2x1cm raft. Before doing the vat cleaning, mix the resin well, place the piece in a corner where the screen will light up and finish the cycle. This means that the raft merges with the solid film of the cleaner and by pulling the supports, you can remove the film without the risk of piercing the fep, without having to empty the vat, or immerse your hands in the resin
If it works out itll be pretty awesome. I prefer resin too, even though i have 3 FDM printers my 2 resin machines are just so much easier for now. Eventually ill probably set up the voron 2.4 perfectly and itll be a toss up, but the abs resin i like using is pretty amazing stuff You may have your light off or dwell times wrong. Weird resins like this sometimes have a delayed activation on their cure and need like a 1-2 second dwell before they lift.
In 2024 FDM is set and forget basically. On BambuLab printers it's super noob-friendly and you only need a printer and a spool. Done, you're printing TPU on included profile without much issues.
I've been using eSUN eResin-Flex for the last year for my FPV quads and whoops parts, quite successfully. My two cents: - slicer: exposure time 3,5s and bottom exposure time 35s - Fusion360: nothing thinner than 2mm otherwise it's too fragile - printer: place the part laid down, no supports (takes less time)
You can mix siraya tech blu with another truly flexible resin for some pretty good properties. It still won't recover from creep or bend situations as well as tpu, but the amount of detail you can get is what you are paying for at that point. If you can figure out bed adhesion (packing tape or roughed up [garolite/g10/fr4 or whatever you want to call fiberglass epoxy boards] work), polypropylene prints fairly nicely and almost assuredly will never break on you. It is used for living hinges, prosthetics, some pill bottles or chemical sealing containers, etc. There are some other plastics that you can get impact grades of as well on request from filament suppliers as they are just sold as pellets like the regular stuff.
Bacon Ninja had a video testing some of the flexible resin for an action camera mount. Interesting stuff. I don't have any issues printing tpu on my fdm printer, but I'd like to play around with a resin printer someday.
Black resin is always hard to print The resin needs to be warm around 25c You need to wash, wash, cure, wash, cure all at normal times or they can break down the print Cure times should not double as the can break down the print, it looks like they did in your case
Try this same resin for printing but do a 5-minute wash cycle and a 10-minute wash cycle then do the curing for each piece with the same timings as its wash cycle. Some tacky resin requires a little bit of sticky/tackiness in its final curing to get full strength in its resin-printed parts and while drying out the parts leave the parts with a slight shine to it then cure it that should give it a glossy finish after curing. This resin looks like rubber silicon which crumbles if it's too dry and when new or fresh often tends to be a little sticky especially after some oil is applied while it is prepped for use as a rubber belt for a machine run with a motor.
Yes I needed to make a functional window squeegee key chain and fdm wasn't up to the task and I had to give up on the project because I couldn't find a flexible resin
3 things to consider, use a mixing routine (table flip foundry automixer is amazing) to help consistency. Slow your plate speeds way down (45mm) when working with gummy resins to avoid delamination. And look at adding 10 seconds of lights off delay to help with the bluming. Thick tough resins are slow resins to work with. Try tenacious! Thanks for the video!
I’ve tried tenacious, but found that because it’s transparent, you can’t really print anything which needs supports as the light, exposes more resin than expected
I can print thoese litle parts in tpu or carbon/nylon very fast and very acurate even using 0.4mm nozzle , but yuo can use 0.2 mm for better details if need it , i think is less messy
Never tempt Murphy. He heard you when you said resin printing was so much easier. LOL I can't believe you're not using a flexible build plate, though! It's so much easier to remove prints. As far as which is better? It all depends on what you're printing. I find resin better at fine details. But it's much easier to prototype with FDM.
Brother, get a Bambu Lab and Polymaker TPU H and print at 80mms from a heated dryer like the Sunlu 2 and you will get 101% perfect looking and functioning prints with failures = -1
i feel the need to ask some questions. when you were having failures did you lower the lift speed? flex resins need slower speeds and longer pulls or else you get delamination, which you did, if it was purely an exposure issue they would be stuck to the bottom of the vat entirely not just split at the middle and wonky. Also the post processing your ipa must be gunky, which caused your following issues, hence the stickyness and the resin attempting to stick to the curing surface like it did. you could have gotten away with it if you had gone over them before curing with a paper towel or such instead of the fan. Granted ive not used that resin, closest ive used was the ancubic tough which is itself quite flexible. but this is just my thoughts on it. SLA printing is easier but its still not a plug and play job, the lift speed is as important as the exposure time and the m5s to my knowledge has it cranked up quite a bit 😅 Side note that gcode export is pretty cool, just gotta make sure theres no trapped resin pockets, as if there are that will oneday spontaneously (and possibly spectacularly) fail as it outgasses over time
Flex resin is the most difficult to dial in. I would suggest researching the setting. Their are many forums with people posting settings for almost every printer. Also most likely your lift speeds need to be reduced. The long bath may have desolved the surface layers making it look that way. I like idea about mixing resin. Use a nylon like and this stuff, but dialing in might be more difficult. If you have a direct drive fdm extruder, flex filament can be super easy. I think fdm in general is easier but its what i have the most experience in. But resin has its use cases for sure a must for printing precision parts like that. I would always use a resin printer for that over fdm. Fun video and i feel your pain with flex resin.
Interesting Material, maybe their resin in general is not optimised for the hobbyist printers. I had a lot of trouble printing normal resin from Druckwege on my Elegoo Mars a few years ago. Basically nothing ever wanted to stick to my buildplate. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I have both resin and fmd printers at home. I haven't tried any flexible resins but I can tell about 95a TPU and at least the brand I used in had no big hassle even in a Bowden setup. I do believe that resin printing is a little easier at least with the regular stiff ones idk so much with the flexible ones though.for me personally I stick with 95a TPU
It's so much more hassle for a worse part though, my resin printers literally never see use. It's like comparing multipart heat cured epoxy to hot glue except the hot glue is stronger lol.
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 each technique have its uses. For practical mechanical prints fdm is hands down the best for highly detailed small things there's no comparison on the resin quality
Which slicer do you use? and how you can have multiple exposure cones of calibration in a single run? I so far tried one by one and was a tedious work o guesstimate the right exposure.
Love your content and frndly auzy accent, I hope you can do more resin reviews there is a plethora of in discovered company's that offer industrial resin. I'd like to see something reviewed from Russia's Harz labs company and their industrial flexible resin.
The feature is called R_E_R_F and can be found on the Anycubic website or the USB that comes with your printer. It's customizable, and prints whatever model you want 8 times, each 0.25 seconds longer than the last.
SLA is sooooo much easier than FDM you say, yeah playing with contact sensitiser isn't my idea of fun, neither is playing with big nasty vats of poison when it doesn't quite work as expected .....
"resin printing is easier than...", yeah, let me just quickly put on the gloves to wash everything printed, bring the toxic wastes from that cleaning to a disposal center, and cure the model with a uv lamp. so much easier than taking the piece from your flexible build plate and be done with it. don't get me wrong, resin printing is cool and all, but lets be honest about the issues.
Resin sucks and FDM is easy. The difference between pushing a button and having a print compared to the precautions, prep, cleanup and general hassle of resin isn't even a comparison. It's like saying multi part epoxy you need to cure in an oven is easier than a hot glue gun lol. Also my FDM parts don't crumble from UV degradation and are just generally stronger and better in everyway, the only benefit to resin is the resolution which has no benefit for anything but, the absolute smallest mechanical parts where .1mm is the difference between it working or not and the amount of people printing parts like that is tiny.
Forget about it. They all suck as soon as they have any little scratch on the surface. It propagates and falls apart. The best flexible ones are what Formlabs sells and BASF. The rest is complete garbage.
Dudes like...resin printers are so much easier... Pulls out entire build plate of fails... I've literally only had 2 failed prints with my K1 printer at this point...just sayin
LOL and then another plate of fails...oh it's too good...I'd already have 2 full plates of perfect parts... OOOOH What's that? A 3rd failed plate of parts....LMAO We call that putting our foot in our mouth.
love the content, but dude, how many times do you drop the f-bomb in this video? I was watching on the TV in the living room and had to turn it off when the kid walked in 🤣
Nice content! May interested in trying any different kinds of materials of 3D printing? Would love to give our support and reach any collab together if there's a chance! (PCBWay zoey)
"omg it's so much easier to print resin than fdm let me show you"
> proceeds with the gooiest, smelliest most annoying process ever and has to waste 1/3 bottle as soon as there is any delamination.
>oh, and make sure to have an exhaust to vent out all the cancerougenic vomit endusing fumes
but.. but.. it IS much easier though ‼️😂
And isn't there post processing? Supports look so annoying to remove.
@@oljoboIt's also easier since you die early, which saves you from a lot of printing...😅
As a user of both, FDM is just so much easier. The trade off is the detail. I only use resin because I have to. The prints are amazing, not a single layer line, just plastic-y shiny results. But it’s a toxic dirty long process.
I love being able to set FDM and walk away. And then just pop it off the plate and IT’S DONE.
Both have strengths and weaknesses, I print in resin much more, but FDM is much easier.
As a printer who prints both resin and fdm? Absofuckinlutely!@@DisgruntledPigumon
So SLA printing is so much easier than FDM, if you ignore all the failures and cleaning of gunk.
Easy ,yes ,but its messy ,yuo need gloves ,alchol ,a setup , that very quickly is all cover with toxyc resin , so not so easy , then yuo need sometimes change the fep, clean the vat , the smell , i use a respirator when i clean in the uv machine , soo
Yea got a resin as my first biggest regret fem so much simpler
Failures? Had mine for 2 years and only failures are when changing to drastically different resins or I fail to properly support the print. Once I get a design printing well its incredibly easy to do beyond the cleaning which is not fun at all.
@@ChrisHarmon1 for most people, resin printing just isnt worth it at all. Filaments can make you sick too, but resin is just so much worse and more messy that its not even fun anymore.
And health concerns
It might be worth mixing the flexible resin 50/50 with a rigid resin to give it more rigity while maintaining some flexitibity.
That prusa slicer 'export toolpaths as obj' is incredible. Can't believe I didn't know about it
Yo, finally found your drone channel! Love your 3D content ❤
I normally run 15 seconds for the 3 bottom layers, then 4 sec for the rest. It is a good setting and clean surfaces. The stickiness you feel is normal. Where the stickiness comes from is the unchained bonds of the negative polymer and washes away, then subsides over time. Because flexible resins are not 100% accurate just yet, what we are able to purchase is not exact measurements but close enough to use, they will get better over time, but for now they are hazardous until hardened. Something to keep in mind, looking at resins from the chemical aspect, the only dangerous part is the positive additive to the polymer. The positive is added as the bonding agent when exposed to UV light, once that bond is made, the additive becomes inert and no longer poses a danger, it become neutral once exposed or activated. When you look at epoxy resins the same basic idea is used, only the positive additive of epoxy is ...well epoxy +, it is activated by oxygen. When you have a negative chemical and want it to harden, you add a positive in controlled amounts to achieve the hardness you want or require. Once the exposure happens, the chemical becomes inert and is then safe to handle. I hope this helps.
which slicer are you using? Did you try Anycubic Tough Resin Ultra?
7:15 - Rebound. That's the reason I wanted to watch this video. All of the low durometer resins I've tried are expensive and they have very slow rebound properties, very consistent with your results in this video. That would be good in some energy absorbing applications but I have a product I'm trying to migrate to additive manufacturing that needs fast rebound.
I love resin printing for the excellent surface finish and much more isotropic physical properties (essentially no interlayer weakness), but I definitely would not say it's easier. I LOL'd when you made that claim. I FDM print a lot of TPU for my business. No heated bed. It prints slowly but it's an unattended process so that doesn't really matter. When a bed full of parts is finished ten hours later, I pluck them off and press the Print Again button. No scraping, no alcohol washing and rinsing, no drying, no UV post cure, no stinky carcinogenic chemicals, no rubber gloves, no sticky mess all over everything, no filtering a vat of resin with little detached chunks.
95A or 98A TPU is easy to FDM print. 30-45 mm/s for everything. Slow and steady. I use 2-3 mm of retraction. Select Avoid Crossing Perimeters in the slicer and paint a layer change seam someplace inconspicuous. Direct drive extruder and you may need to recalibrate E steps to get the proper extrusion rate to avoid under extrusion. Hang the reel above on a bearing hub spool holder and feed the filament directly into the top of the extruder with no reverse Bowden. On a textured PEI build plate, I don't even use any bed heating and some of the parts I print are tall, thin, and have very little bed contact area. High acceleration and fast moves would cause the tall thin parts to deform under acceleration and the upper portion of the parts would have a rough surface. Up to 45 degree overhangs are OK. Avoid overhanging arches, and avoid straight 45 degree overhangs that end at a peak (use a 3-5 mm flat top bridge instead). Rafts and supports are a disaster so just don't. Avoid large bed contact areas because TPU sticks so well. I'll design the part with grooves if it requires a large bed contact area.
Exporting a sparse infill model to resin print is a cool hack. New to me. Thanks!
Sirayatech is something i'd love to see, they even recommend mixing up their flex stuff with their strong-af stuff in various % depending on where to use it
Resin is the hardest way to print, especially with how toxic the resin is, fdm its just slice, print, remove supports, use. But resin ads in washing, drying, and curing and on top of that until you get to curing, you're handling something thats toxic and shouldn't be touched at all.
As someone who has only ever FDM printed in PLA+, and resin printed in standard SurayaTech Grey, this was fascinating. Would love to see how the tough resins compare. Also, I'm not sure if this is something you'd be interested in making, but it'd be great to see a vid on your process of actually designing and modelling these custom parts.
Can't wait for the next one, the videos on this channel have been intriguing and very entertaining
Always be mixing resin.
They are all photo activated. So as long as they don't separate too bad you're good to go.
I've never had a single resin work better than mixing multiple resins.
I was trying so many different resins and mixes for drone parts to keep the stability with shock resistance I'm excited theirs new resins on the market :)
Anycubic Tough is tough. A softer flex resin would be nice, Robot tank tracks n wheels etc.
Curing under water helps against tackiness.
This looks suspiciously like a resin we use to make earmoulds for hearing aid patients. It's usually cured using xenon flash bulbs under nitrogen.. but no idea how that could be adapted to a 'consumer grade' solution
@@johnd6487 The problem is the oxygen in the air, which blocks the curing process. In the medical field, you probably want to be safe and guarantee that no cured material comes into contact with the patient. Some oxygen could still be dissolved in the water, which could then cause irritation or similar.
However, the result with water is already very good for me. But I don't have permanent skin contact.
When it comes to any TPU, you have to pay very close attention to the properties of the TPU. For instance, ninjaflex is extremely flexible compared to normal TPU. The same goes for resin. You can end up with really strange versions of TPU and almost none of them are the same.
I wanted to see how they look... Have you cleaned them with clean alcohol before curing? It all looked gooey even after cured. It is a pity you didn't mount the parts on a drone in this video... Waiting for the actual test! The flex is amazing!
Regarding the vat cleaning function, I recommend this procedure which I have been using for years.
When you print something, don't throw away the supports. Keep aside those 4 cm tall and above. The pieces must have at least 2x1cm raft.
Before doing the vat cleaning, mix the resin well, place the piece in a corner where the screen will light up and finish the cycle. This means that the raft merges with the solid film of the cleaner and by pulling the supports, you can remove the film without the risk of piercing the fep, without having to empty the vat, or immerse your hands in the resin
It not springing back means, that it might be a good material for vibration damping.
If it works out itll be pretty awesome. I prefer resin too, even though i have 3 FDM printers my 2 resin machines are just so much easier for now. Eventually ill probably set up the voron 2.4 perfectly and itll be a toss up, but the abs resin i like using is pretty amazing stuff
You may have your light off or dwell times wrong. Weird resins like this sometimes have a delayed activation on their cure and need like a 1-2 second dwell before they lift.
In 2024 FDM is set and forget basically. On BambuLab printers it's super noob-friendly and you only need a printer and a spool. Done, you're printing TPU on included profile without much issues.
Please do more R&D with the flexible resins.
I've been using eSUN eResin-Flex for the last year for my FPV quads and whoops parts, quite successfully. My two cents:
- slicer: exposure time 3,5s and bottom exposure time 35s
- Fusion360: nothing thinner than 2mm otherwise it's too fragile
- printer: place the part laid down, no supports (takes less time)
Still watch, please explain how you can do different exposure times on each copy onthe same print. Seems impossible?
Check out the calibration section of the video linked in the description.
You can mix siraya tech blu with another truly flexible resin for some pretty good properties. It still won't recover from creep or bend situations as well as tpu, but the amount of detail you can get is what you are paying for at that point. If you can figure out bed adhesion (packing tape or roughed up [garolite/g10/fr4 or whatever you want to call fiberglass epoxy boards] work), polypropylene prints fairly nicely and almost assuredly will never break on you. It is used for living hinges, prosthetics, some pill bottles or chemical sealing containers, etc. There are some other plastics that you can get impact grades of as well on request from filament suppliers as they are just sold as pellets like the regular stuff.
You can add Monocure Flex to any resin. It has the ability to do what you did. However, when it fails, it crumbles like an eraser.
Bacon Ninja had a video testing some of the flexible resin for an action camera mount. Interesting stuff. I don't have any issues printing tpu on my fdm printer, but I'd like to play around with a resin printer someday.
Black resin is always hard to print
The resin needs to be warm around 25c
You need to wash, wash, cure, wash, cure all at normal times or they can break down the print
Cure times should not double as the can break down the print, it looks like they did in your case
Nice work! great seeing new and different things! (best arthur voice) DEEEEEEEWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!
Try this same resin for printing but do a 5-minute wash cycle and a 10-minute wash cycle then do the curing for each piece with the same timings as its wash cycle.
Some tacky resin requires a little bit of sticky/tackiness in its final curing to get full strength in its resin-printed parts and while drying out the parts leave the parts with a slight shine to it then cure it that should give it a glossy finish after curing.
This resin looks like rubber silicon which crumbles if it's too dry and when new or fresh often tends to be a little sticky especially after some oil is applied while it is prepped for use as a rubber belt for a machine run with a motor.
15:41 scrubbing these parts while in the ipa will help eliminate the tack.
Thank you for your video. No doubt FDM is easier and cheaper
Yes I needed to make a functional window squeegee key chain and fdm wasn't up to the task and I had to give up on the project because I couldn't find a flexible resin
Great topic, thanks
Would the clear tough resin you did the mechs with work as good if not better?
What do you think is the best alternative tough resin?
3 things to consider, use a mixing routine (table flip foundry automixer is amazing) to help consistency. Slow your plate speeds way down (45mm) when working with gummy resins to avoid delamination. And look at adding 10 seconds of lights off delay to help with the bluming. Thick tough resins are slow resins to work with. Try tenacious! Thanks for the video!
I’ve tried tenacious, but found that because it’s transparent, you can’t really print anything which needs supports as the light, exposes more resin than expected
@@markstevensfpv3722so you mix it with flex
I can print thoese litle parts in tpu or carbon/nylon very fast and very acurate even using 0.4mm nozzle , but yuo can use 0.2 mm for better details if need it , i think is less messy
I strongly suggest getting a flex plate for your resin printers. No more scratches and scraping at prints
Never tempt Murphy. He heard you when you said resin printing was so much easier. LOL I can't believe you're not using a flexible build plate, though! It's so much easier to remove prints. As far as which is better? It all depends on what you're printing. I find resin better at fine details. But it's much easier to prototype with FDM.
Formlabs have a silicone variant that generates insane flex parts. Up next? Cant call it cost efficient though..
Brother, get a Bambu Lab and Polymaker TPU H and print at 80mms from a heated dryer like the Sunlu 2 and you will get 101% perfect looking and functioning prints with failures = -1
2.5s exposure time is OK, but you need to decrease the Z-Lift speed on flexible resins
What do you think about using something like Conjure Rigid for drone parts?
If you want incredible flexibility, I'd love to see you try Formlabs' silicone resin! Actual printing of real silicone
i feel the need to ask some questions. when you were having failures did you lower the lift speed? flex resins need slower speeds and longer pulls or else you get delamination, which you did, if it was purely an exposure issue they would be stuck to the bottom of the vat entirely not just split at the middle and wonky.
Also the post processing your ipa must be gunky, which caused your following issues, hence the stickyness and the resin attempting to stick to the curing surface like it did. you could have gotten away with it if you had gone over them before curing with a paper towel or such instead of the fan.
Granted ive not used that resin, closest ive used was the ancubic tough which is itself quite flexible. but this is just my thoughts on it.
SLA printing is easier but its still not a plug and play job, the lift speed is as important as the exposure time and the m5s to my knowledge has it cranked up quite a bit 😅
Side note that gcode export is pretty cool, just gotta make sure theres no trapped resin pockets, as if there are that will oneday spontaneously (and possibly spectacularly) fail as it outgasses over time
What are those cool mechs in the background?
Where did you get that tray/tub thing you are using. That looks very handy with the fairly short walls.
It's a UV resistant tray thats meant to go underneath pot plants. You can find em in the garden section of your home/hardware stores :)
@@GogglesOFF Bunnings?
@@GogglesOFF sweet thanks for the tip.
Flex resin is the most difficult to dial in. I would suggest researching the setting. Their are many forums with people posting settings for almost every printer. Also most likely your lift speeds need to be reduced. The long bath may have desolved the surface layers making it look that way. I like idea about mixing resin. Use a nylon like and this stuff, but dialing in might be more difficult. If you have a direct drive fdm extruder, flex filament can be super easy. I think fdm in general is easier but its what i have the most experience in. But resin has its use cases for sure a must for printing precision parts like that. I would always use a resin printer for that over fdm. Fun video and i feel your pain with flex resin.
Interesting Material, maybe their resin in general is not optimised for the hobbyist printers. I had a lot of trouble printing normal resin from Druckwege on my Elegoo Mars a few years ago. Basically nothing ever wanted to stick to my buildplate. Thanks for sharing your experience.
You know when I first saw this videos I thought I found once on a six sided dices long lost twin brother😂😂😂😂😂 man when I found out I felt so dumb😅
Oh god I thought I was the only one
try underwater curing and cleaning in Ultrasonic with higher 99.9% ethyl alcohol
New to your channel. What miniatures are those?
I have both resin and fmd printers at home. I haven't tried any flexible resins but I can tell about 95a TPU and at least the brand I used in had no big hassle even in a Bowden setup.
I do believe that resin printing is a little easier at least with the regular stiff ones idk so much with the flexible ones though.for me personally I stick with 95a TPU
It's so much more hassle for a worse part though, my resin printers literally never see use. It's like comparing multipart heat cured epoxy to hot glue except the hot glue is stronger lol.
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 each technique have its uses. For practical mechanical prints fdm is hands down the best for highly detailed small things there's no comparison on the resin quality
Which slicer do you use? and how you can have multiple exposure cones of calibration in a single run? I so far tried one by one and was a tedious work o guesstimate the right exposure.
It’s an anycubic slicer rerf program.
@@lokiwartooth1138 great thanks. I Guess It can also be done by UV tools but this Is more user friendly
Love your content and frndly auzy accent, I hope you can do more resin reviews there is a plethora of in discovered company's that offer industrial resin. I'd like to see something reviewed from Russia's Harz labs company and their industrial flexible resin.
would you say FDM, has been taken over by resin now at this stage , is you want a printer that can do it all, figures , parts , functional
3:58 4.5-4.7 secs coming from uses with f69.
"easier than FDM"
is this the once in a drone side?
does this resin have a heigher print temp?
I think I will stick to my 2 sprays of iso or a bit of soapy water with my k1 max.....
What about electroplating?
Try baby powder, that should take the tackiness away.
So you really told at the END of your video that this resin is no longer available? :D
Nice...
can you print a basketball from it ?
How do you print multiple models with different exposure times at the same time?
The feature is called R_E_R_F and can be found on the Anycubic website or the USB that comes with your printer. It's customizable, and prints whatever model you want 8 times, each 0.25 seconds longer than the last.
SLA is sooooo much easier than FDM you say, yeah playing with contact sensitiser isn't my idea of fun, neither is playing with big nasty vats of poison when it doesn't quite work as expected .....
So it's worse than TPU
I hate the cones of calibration, it's a way too long print for a test and it never works for flexible resins..
How is this simpler than FDM? lmao
Why choose black? it's the worst color to print with sla.
If you think SLA is easier than FDM, buy a Bambu...😂
try other flexible resins please
Just mix with another resin
Resin printing is way harder than FDM
How?
@@GogglesOFF way more failures, harder to tune the printer, post processing prints, dealing with leveling after every print.
@@GogglesOFFdude watching this video convinced me it's harder lol
@@GogglesOFF How many steps, hands on time(or should I say gloves on lol) are involved in resin printing, now how many steps are involved in FDM?
LOL in no world is resin printing easier than fdm
"resin printing is easier than...", yeah, let me just quickly put on the gloves to wash everything printed, bring the toxic wastes from that cleaning to a disposal center, and cure the model with a uv lamp. so much easier than taking the piece from your flexible build plate and be done with it.
don't get me wrong, resin printing is cool and all, but lets be honest about the issues.
Resin sucks and FDM is easy. The difference between pushing a button and having a print compared to the precautions, prep, cleanup and general hassle of resin isn't even a comparison. It's like saying multi part epoxy you need to cure in an oven is easier than a hot glue gun lol.
Also my FDM parts don't crumble from UV degradation and are just generally stronger and better in everyway, the only benefit to resin is the resolution which has no benefit for anything but, the absolute smallest mechanical parts where .1mm is the difference between it working or not and the amount of people printing parts like that is tiny.
Forget about it. They all suck as soon as they have any little scratch on the surface. It propagates and falls apart. The best flexible ones are what Formlabs sells and BASF. The rest is complete garbage.
Dudes like...resin printers are so much easier...
Pulls out entire build plate of fails...
I've literally only had 2 failed prints with my K1 printer at this point...just sayin
LOL and then another plate of fails...oh it's too good...I'd already have 2 full plates of perfect parts...
OOOOH What's that? A 3rd failed plate of parts....LMAO
We call that putting our foot in our mouth.
@lancenig and he says "this doesn't usually happen" lol
-resin printing is so simple compared to fdm!
@
spends 90% of vid time attempting to print anything.
love the content, but dude, how many times do you drop the f-bomb in this video? I was watching on the TV in the living room and had to turn it off when the kid walked in 🤣
Hold on, how you ask THE OWNER OF THE COMPANY and they tell you to google it? What a dick
you must have used a shit fdm printer if you think resin printing is easier than fdm
everything is fucked up
An, you're printing drone parts... and don't have a drone to test it and show us? I must confess that this video kind of annoyed me.
I think you must learn 10 years more with printing with resin and than do it again. Horrible Job 👎
Do you think all viewers of your video care to listen to bad language? Please in your future videos keep it clean.
Or you could start your own channel and use whatever language you like. 🤷♂️
Nice content! May interested in trying any different kinds of materials of 3D printing? Would love to give our support and reach any collab together if there's a chance! (PCBWay zoey)
Druckwege, if pronounced the dutch way would be [dʁʊk'veːxə] - approximately Drook-weeha with the H like the H in human - kinda like a cats hiss.
I know you need to shake the bottle before use but at least hold the thing still so we can see the label! 😂