Can You Modify A Car To Save Fuel? - Fifth Gear
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Tim tries to save fuel by modding a car but the results are surprising.
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"We're giving away free money today."
"Oh great!"
"Here's 50p"
"-_-"
Ain't got the Top Gear budget...
@@MadIIMike
I like this show better then top gear.
panzerfaust375 They seem to have more proper car knowledge. Fifth Gear and Top Gear are two different types of shows. While Fifth Gear is entertaining at times, Top Gear is more entertainment than informatitonal.
I mean 50p ain’t bad for free
it was her fault for filling like 2 liters...
Anyone who has ever ridden a bicycle on wet roads knows it takes more energy to ride on wet road than dry. The pumping action to push the water aside isn't free.
if you have slicks you can just float over the water
@@punker4Real but then you just spin the tires and use more fuel because of higher engine speeds, also slicks are expensive af (if its not just old worn tire) so they will just cancel out if not cost more than normal driving
@@droneeveryone and damage your fuel tank and spill it and now you are left with no fuel and a wrecked car
This is why we need tires designed to soak up the water like a sponge and keep the ground beneath them dry.
@@AmaroqStarwind well how much can it soak up? 2 litres? tire comes in contact with so much water so it isn't really useful is it? also it would actually spray water in front of it when being compressed
Do this with a V8 Muscle Car and change just the Gear Ratio for each test.
The results would be astonishing.
the video looks like 480p even tough i set it to 1080p
Yeah well it's a waste to just re-encode and upload it like that that's the point.
*****
You could re-encode it at the resolution it was recorded and a bitrate that's still high enough but still lower than the one required for 1080p. What am I missing here?
*****
Let me get this right. So if your video is 480p with a decent bit-rate but you upload it on youtube as a 480p video, youtube will drop that bit-rate and make it look worse. So the only solution is to upload in a higher res so you get more bit-rate and the original quality. Did I get this right?
*****
Thank you for clearing it all up man. :)
30% of the overall car drag come from the wheels alone. The wheels are the most inefficient part drag wise on any car. Choose the smallest and narrowest wheels which are legal for your car and close off the biggest portion of the rims with something flat or with foil. This mod alone can increase your efficiency by about 10%-20% depending on the wheels you had before.
Next is the, rear box, rear mirror, windshield wipers, door handles and front air inlets. You can optimize all of those with little mods like.
- detach windshield wipers and put them in the trunk for later us if needed.
- install small vortex generators besides the mirror to increase attached air flow (effect can be measured with small strings attached to the car, easy and simple)
- tape off the door handles if not needed. especially in the rear, say you usually ride alone and can open them from the inside, tape them off permenantely
- close certain sections of the front air inlets (monitor the temp. usually cars are road tested at 45°C in the desert, if you live in the UK you don´t need that)
- You can add a small spoiler to the rear which is curved 12° deg inwards to decrease drag.
You can save probably an other 5% -10% or so with those mods.
smaller rims, thinner tires in the 155-185 width sizes, run higher psi, set up a hot air intake system, delete your spare/jack/toolsets, lightweight battery
How they should have done it:
Bump pressure up to sidewall, borrow set of WORN IN lrr tires, remove side mirrors and the stupid antennae, make a grille block, undertray, kammback/boattail, properly designed tire spats, wheel covers, rear wheel skirts, meaningful weight reduction (remove seats), power steering delete (assuming it has P/S), NO CHIP, and most importantly, don't drive in the rain and pretend its the same. Rain may reduce the friction of the tires, but now you have to push the water out of the way just like air.
Even with petrol priced at £1.74, like it currently is, that £550 he spent on that chip and those tyres is a false economy.
Depends on the car. I have converted my clutch fan with dual electric fans in my 1998 Ford Expedition and there was a great increase in fuel efficiency. Next I will change the manifolds with shorty headers for more torque (less gas for speed), change the fuel injectors, fuel pump and fuel filter, spark plugs and install an open air intake.
hi. I have 99” ford expy too. Can you tell me if your car still on the road and what mods you have done?
coast (in gear) as far as you can up to a junction or round about...especially with common rail diesel engines.
ArcturanMegadonkey Yes, most drivers don't know that coasting in gear actually closes the throttle and uses no fuel.
Of course everyone behind you will want to murder you for slowing down a mile too early.
There is a limit to that as well though... A modern diesel engine will only use about 8dl of diesel per hour on idle. Thus, sometimes you will coast much further on neutral, especially when going downhill... There breaking the air resistance is much more useful, than trying to turn the engine to save some milliliters of fuel...
Direct Fuel Cutoff for the win!
thank you veryy much for that comment, the only issue is, when you go back into gear everytime your snychromesh, wears down a little bit and to fix that, that's way more expensive than what you could save by that, but yes coasting in neutral is more efficient and then just before the corner, rev match into a low gear to use engine breaking and fuel cut off and save on brake pads had over 140.000 on my first brake pads in the front, but decided to change them all 4 as I was too curios to see how it's done on that car, there was about 1/3 of them left
maybe upgrading to improved injectors, a service and s professional engine flush will improve mpg
rain increases the rolling resistance while moving and decreases traction under deceleration. Basic physics guys
That woman who said "it's not quite worth it, but thank you". The nerve of some people
Best Fuel Saving Tip: Buy a 125cc-650cc motorcycle
most modern motorcycles with a 650cc engines could do 50-80 US MPG's at usual highway speeds
125cc 4 stroke motorcycles could do up to 120-150 US MPG's at a constant 35-40MPH
Another Tip: Get a motorcycle with an EFI system they are far more efficient than carbureted bikes
put more air in tires. so the presure is bigger.. for example i have e36 316i sedan 1,6 l with tire presure front 2,6bar rear 2,8 bar. 6,5l/100km avrige. used to be 7,5 - 8l
The best mpg comes when you have a light car and over powered engine you don't need to step on the pedal to get it to go. The other modifications could have done which would have gained a bit more mpg is a simple belly pan.
the wipers from the windshield due to the rain took the energy out from the car!! should have taken at least 12watts per hour to run the wiper motors! there is no free lunch amigoes! wet roads might yield less friction on tyres but wet weather means you lose aerodynamic savings because the car slices through wet thicker air molecules and creates more drag!
Well I'm more of a diesel truck person and some tunes for diesels can add power and increase fuel mileage
needs to run on 4 of those spacesavers :D
Instead: Buy a new air filter (preferably K&N) and spark plugs. Then run fuel injector cleaner in with the gas.
The only effective way to improve economy here is to lengthen the gear ratio and cruise with lower engine rpm.
Wait, the rain didn't even help it beat the dry time?
He installed a new chip which advanced the fuel ignition timing but he didn't bother to fill up with high octane fuel to prevent knock. Instead the car injected more fuel so that the fuel soaks up more heat and prevent premature ignition. Also rain is horrible for fuel economy. Amateurs....
Wouldn't rain add weight and make it worse?
hydroplaning, your car basically floats on the layer of water on the street if you go fast enough
car wheels don't go dead straight or else the car wouldn't track a line an alignment includes toe-out of front wheels which is drag similar to wind, so even if your going straight on a level road there is still minuscule tyre wear. In the wet the tyres are kept colder which means they maintain better pressure and have less wear which we know is somewhat draggy. There's more to it than just hydro-planning which is an absence of a grip meaning the car's sailing like a boat, though there is a small amount between the wheels and tarmac. hydro or aqua planing is the term for when the amount of water has exceeded what a tyres tread pattern can wick away.
Turning on your wipers and lights means the alternator has to run more, thus using more fuel.
No but the air will be cooler and denser plus what the wiper eat up in electricity.
Correct, and the weight reduction only has an effect on acceleration so a one-time acceleration to 60 and then keeping it steady doesn't show the effect of weight reduction. To increase the MPG with highway tests at constant speed you need airo changes such as taping of (part of) the air intake at the front and using smaller rear view mirrors etc.
First flaw: Before the first test he should have let the car empty the tank by itself in order to get a precise reading that he could use. I am surprised they didn't think of this..
Bad test, irrelevant results. Want to save fuel? Change your driving habits. Low rpm, avoid braking avoid accelerating, use the racing line everywhere, speed up downhill, lose speed uphill, turn off all electronics, don't use the aircon, drive a FWD manual (less transmission losses)do the regular maintenance items (fuel and oil filters, oil flush and change, transmission fluid/oil, air filter, spark plugs, walnut blast intake ports, clean/replace the injectors, add a surge tank to the crank case breathing system, strip the interior of everything, sit on a milk crate, drive without lights on at night, remove all the body panels, replace the wheels with strong bike wheels (thinner = less rolling resistance), remove all unwanted crumple zones and chassis stiffening (no A pillars), remove the windows and replace with glad wrap, disconnect the alternator and charge the battery at night like a tesla owner. If this fails, get someone to tow you around on a car trailer. You can sit in your car in the trailer and do infinite mpg. This should be enough to render some improvements to mileage.
Hahahahaha!
New Tyres will have more resistance due to the tread depth.
It's true that you will never improve mileage using government approved street legal kits of any kind, for the same reason you stated at the opening of this video.
You have to think outside the box and outsmart the failsafe mileage insurance systems that were put in place by the manufacturer of the system.
The way I learned about these systems in all the autoshop classes I ever took and the class I took in College in emissions and tuneup all said basically the same thing... It is designed to be impossible to improve fuel mileage. But I am convinced that it is possible.
Start with finding a way to reduce the wasted fuel exiting the cylinder, not the tailpipe. Much of the emission control system is aimed at reducing emissions after they exit the cylinder. So in order to measure the wasted fuel you would need to measure the waste before the cat and any air pump that is designed to burn excess fuel inside the exhaust. That will give you a BASELINE for bench-marking purposes.
So then approaching a way to improve the burn of the fuel without having the o2 sensor compensate and making fuel mileage worse. In fact you stand a much better chance of improving mileage of a carbureted engine than a efi because of the principle that the efi run off of. EFI are regulated by the o2 sensor which measures the gases coming out and leaning or richening the mixture by extrapolating the ratio of gasses in the exhaust. In a nutshell it says what is an acceptable amount of waste in the exhaust. So if you improve the burn efficiency it will compensate actually adding MORE fuel. Basically it is an MPG insurance policy.
How to outsmart this system is the key, but one thing is certain, it won't be legal and I wouldn't hold my breath trying to get something like this approved either. If burn efficiency can be overcome the natural result would be better MPG.
Yes you can, you can restrict the intake of air, it will lower performance but will mean you can burn less fuel
plugs, air filter, tyre pressures, and not lugging around heaps of stuff
I have always found rainy weather affects my MPG for the worse!!
make it run more lean, reduce weight, reduce drag. These work.
Lean is More air per fule?
+ResaRestart yes
they should've tested multiple times to get a more accurate average
Dont use fix a flat. if you cant get the tire patched if you use it. ill just keep my spare
hmmm serviced the corrado but forgot to service the polo
would the same amount of revs not give the same amount of km/h no matter of the power?
LMFAO how much is a pound versus the dollar
Wow ~50 mpg? That's not bad at all.
@ 5:30 Scared the crap out of me
The problem isn’t the cost of fuel the problem is the government they tax our income they tax or fuel they tax things we buy it’s too much they need to get their act together on the control and stop taking our money
Best fuel saving mod: your right foot.
The Fifth Gear technicians were wrong. Rain dramatically increases your fuel use. The density of water is like 1000 times higher than air. You are constantly pushing against dense stuff in the rain. Let alone the tyres pushing the dense stuff away from your grippy parts and splashing it meters high into the air. Lastly the windscreen wipers take a tiny bit of extra energy.
that is correct
Ronald de Rooij klopt
Ronald de Rooij i'm also unhappy with the conclusion that a slippery road increases fuel efficiency...shouldnt slipping tires need more power to keep the car going at the same speed?
Makes sense to me, because that means that more energy is lost
I accept there is less friction, but it works against you, and yes, you need to push that water out of the way.
“Fuel prices have risen by record levels this year”
*2022: 😏*
Fact
inflation
If this were scientific the mods would have been done one at a time. It is likely that the new chip's profile was not optimised for driving steadily at 60 and so masked any benefit of other mods
Everything was great half-way through then it felt like they rushed it, and ruined the whole scientific method thing.
Bose de-Nage they should redo it
They honestly should have asked the chip manufacturer for what speed it was optimized.
I thought the same. The chip ruined it.
ya dyno or a proper road tune would have been a tonne better. you can literally drop the A/F Ratio to 15:1 and keep the ignition just shy of knock, at about 2200 rpm and he could have gotten 50 MPG if not 55. its all in the tune bra
Couple things:
1) Pumping the tank and putting in exactly 1 gallon does not take into consideration the amount of fuel you missed siphoning or the fuel left in the lines.
2) Lapping a track to negate the effects of wind does not work because drag increases exponentially with speed instead of linearly.
3) Rain increases drag on the car both in terms of modifying the aerodynamic shape of the car as well as the momentum transfer when the car hits each of those rain drops.
4) A wet surface reduces static friction, which you are not taking into consideration at all with MPG runs. You're interested in rolling resistance with MPG runs.
5) Added electrical usage (running the wipers and headlights) increases the resistance on the alternator. Similarly, if you happened to have the defog on, that would run the A/C compressor.
6) Advancing the timing only really helps in high throttle applications when you have a really big, long explosion. When you have just a little explosion just to maintain speed, you want it where the crankshaft is at the most efficient spot, which is at 90 degrees from TDC. You also increase the risk of pinging and blowing a hole in the motor.
That was not scientific at all and, frankly, a very poor test.
yes
hundreds of thousands of views times 7 minutes of everyones' life wasted and they couldn't be bothered to re-run the test under similar conditions.
😑🙄🤮
I came here to write 1,2,3 and 4 (didn't finish the video),
thank you for writing it better than I could. :)
What does 2) mean in simple words?
Best fuel saving tip: don't drive.
Best fuel saving tip: Slow down!
-ETCG
stiliqn007 no! Avoid braking as much as possible. Braking turns potential energy produced by the engine and turns it into non useful energy, effectively wasting fuel you just burnt.
Nah, speed up, if I drive at 70 km/h in 5th gear instead of 55-60 km/h in 4th gear I get better fuel economy. It kind of depends on the car.
I think you meant: don't travel. Making others drive for you doesn't decrease fuel usage
The Star of China
obviously u havent seen the video lol
I didnt mean hit the brakes. I meant just drive slower
Test was wrong. the engine had not run out of fuel on the first test, this means you have extra fuel in the pipe.s injector rail ect.
had you of refilled the car started it then drained it, and put 1 gallon in you may have seen an increase in mpg on 2nd test.
michael laws That is what I was thinking.
Yes yes i wanted to comment the same thing
michael laws well, i am sure that the second test was the same, why would they tow it to tyre and ecu shop if they could put gas in and drive it, also i am sure that ecu programming required engine running to get the best results... most probably is actually due to ecu reprogramming, this is normaly aspirated engine so you can't really do much to it compared to turbo vehicle :)
sorry for grammar mistakes, i guess you get my point
michael laws and in the fuel filter. 👍
Also, if there was wind, it may have been in a different direction in the second test. That factor's difficult to control though
After you ran out of petrol the first time, it would of drained you fuel line so really you got further because of the fuel in your lines that you did take out firstly
Plus the fuel filter. Can be half a litre in there.
why are you so dumb? are you from Poland or what?
It's the Car S.O.S. guy!
RWL2012 yes it is the guy car sos
RWL2012 that guy is fucking everywhere
Fuzz?
RWL2012 I have seen him in real life
Bitelaserkhalif *cringes* Tim
Skip to 2:30 where the video actually starts
mahchymk93 thanks boob girl
They didn't take the fuel left in the fuel lines into account in the first run. They only vacuumed the fuel left in the fuel tank but ignored the rest of it before setting the base figures. Then they drove the car until it cuts out after using all the fuel left in the tank (1 gal), plus the amount left in the fuel lines; which was not present when they made the refill before the second run. That amount of fuel could easily help them make more miles which could affect the final score.
Very true, plus just one test run to establish a base line? This was a flawed test and dumb. Driving habits do improve mpg but there are useful mods. I think this was an example of what not to do.
The problem is the brand new tyres. Fuel efficient ones or not, you should allow the tyres to settle.
Hold on what a load of nonsense. Driving in the rain is LESS efficient as your tires have to pump water AWAY to prevent hydroplaning.
Also you're driving through water droplets in the air which cause resistance. Also air cooler and therefore thicker and causes even more resistance. And windscreen wiper use electricity.
@@Snooker-cn3dm true, the water droplets definitely add to the resistance, both in the air and on the road surface. As for the cooler air, you're right, the air is thicker and hence will cause more resistance/drag. Cooler air has a positive effect on engine power output (i.e the engine delivers more power for a given rpm). I do think that even though the engine performs better when fed with cooler air, it also increases fuel consumption? A larger air mass is sucked into the cylinders and in order to keep an optimal fuel to air mixture ratio, more fuel is required on each intake stroke (and thus more power is being output by the engine)? It seems there is an optimal air temperature at which the engine efficient peaks, any deviation (up or down) from that temperature will have a negative effect on fuel consumption.
Rectifier should work
Don't mess with the chips! A proper test would be to reduce the weight and test on the track. Change the tires and test on the track, and so on. Keep up vehicle maintenance, maintain proper tire pressure, accelerate smoothly, use cruise control on dry level roads, release the gas pedal when you see a stop light or stop sign coming ahead to coast part of the way before braking (also conserved brake pads), plan your route with one that has the least amount of stops and traffic, if running multiple errands go to the stop furthest away first and work your way back home.
Could be wrong here, but I'm fairly certain cruise control reduces your MPG compared to just being even on the accelerator.
If only he knew what gas prices would become
Fuel is cheaper than bottled water?!
Today in 2018:
-In UK the averate price is 65 pence for 1 litre of bottled water.
-In UK average fuel price of fuel is 140 pence per litre.
In 2017 fuel was really cheaper than 65p per litre?
and this polo according to dvla is still drivind around and has MOT untill 25 August 2017 and tax until 01 June 2017
Wounder if the ecu mod has been declared to the insurer.
The driver probably has absolutely no idea it's installed.
Currently failed its last MOT and never had a new one. Exhaust leak and rear suspension corrosion. 114,195 miles I guess they didn't think it was worth fixing.
My 1.0l Polo gets 60mpg it's 21yo always legal and cost €700 nine years ago 😋
@@xeigen2 - How do you find that info?
decrease tire width
Love how people are so interested in the fuel price, this episode was from 2009!
new tyres have more rubber on them, so per wheel rotation, you go a bit further... The odometer showed a little bit less distance traveled, but maybe it was wrong due to the tyres being slightly larger !
The cheapest and easiest fuel saver I know of is to simply place a tennis ball behind the accelerator pedal.
I've found that it's not so much the car that uses a lot of fuel, but rather my driving style. At the moment I'm using about 10 liters per 100km, but if I concentrate on saving fuel, I bring this down to 8 liters per 100km. I drive very short distances, and mostly start stop and hills.
+Mrcloc
"The cheapest and easiest fuel saver I know of is to simply place a tennis ball behind the accelerator pedal."
I tried your suggestion in my wife's car, but I put the tennis ball behind the brake pedal instead... I haven't had to buy her any petrol since...
The funeral is on Thursday
Some garbage turbo cars like the astra j should be reved high so to not waste petrol while the boost loads up
I believe the difference comes from the fact that on the first run, the car only had it's fuel tank drained, but on the second run the car had it's complete system drained before the fuel was poured in
If you buy a Chip from a bangladesh-brit you car will lose even HP...
i know someone who had exactly that happen to their Clio RS
Get an lpg installation. That's what I did. It works.
Bible Flock Box Well, it doesn’t make it more fuel efficient, even worse fuel efficiency, but the fuel itself costs about a third of normal petrol
@@codykamminga9667 just get a diesel. Watch car throttle do a challenge where whey do 800 miles in in an old diesel skoda octavia
Adam 786 yeah, but if you look at the price per distance, LPG is much cheaper, diesel is still about €1.40 a litre, LPG is €0.60 a litre.
Even if the LPG car uses 2 times the fuel the diesel one uses, it’s still cheaper, and tax on LPG cars is also much less than diesel ones
@@codykamminga9667 yes.. but you get more power and more tourque with diesel cars than slow lpg cars. And most of the diesels come with tubo which gives extra boos. To be honest since ive owned couple of diesels and 2 lpg cars. Diesel tax is actually cheaper.
Adam 786 LPG cars are faster than the comparable diesel cars,
Yes you get more torque in a diesel, but much higher hp in a LPG
Here where I live, a Diesel car has a tax of about €100-125 per month, while a comparable LPG car will be about €40-50
Most new diesels have a turbo, it’s because they would be horrendously slow without it.
Here I will compare the stats for a Fiesta from the late 90’s
Diesel 1.8 costs €100-110 per month tax
Petrol 1.25 costs €30 per month tax
LPG 1.3 costs €40 per month tax
Performance of a 1.3 LPG is comparable to the 1.8 non-turbo diesel
I've set the resolution to 720p but looks like 360p, you obly had one job... ONE JOB!
Probably wasn't recorded in 720p.
Could be worse - remember 144p?
Leif Vejby I Member!
Yeah - I hate when someone scale up a low resolution video. Just a waste of space and bandwidth.
I have no idea what that giving money away segment proves.Should have spent it on upgrading that potato used to film/edit that or some training for the person.
Jon Donnelly 1:19 wtf was that transition?
i think this is from the early 2000's
Oooooo...please make a video and upload it on RUclips so we too can insult your efforts.
@1:47 the fuel was £1.195 per litre!!! August 2022 and the price is £1.95!!!!
46 to a gallon is amazing for a 20+ year old car
LethalCookieMonster Except you are NOT diving on the highway at a steady 60 mph for 46 miles for the entirety of a drive.
My 1989 Fiesta would do 50+ mpg at a steady 56. I once drove from Wales to London at a steady 56mph, and I averaged 55mpg. I only just sent it to the scrappy a couple of months ago. :-(
I can also get over 46mpg out of my 1991 MR2 at a steady 56. And that does 0-62 in 7.2 seconds and has a top speed of 137mph. But not while doing 46mpg! :-)
Paul Sengupta My 1.6 civic has never done more than 36mpg even on a 230 mile run. But I am usually averaging 70
And 36mpg or 7.5l/100km of my brave petrol Citroën C2.
I always get stuck behind drivers like you.
Logic #1: keep your RPMs the lower possible. As others pointed out, you can go faster on an higher gear and save more fuel than going slower on a lower one. The higher the RPMs the faster the engine is working and therefore burning more fuel. Logic #2: downshift to slow down. If you brake a little bit and lower the gear, the engine itself will force the car to go slower. This can save fuel and make your brakes last longer, however my parents say it's not useful because it'll make your clutch wear out faster - I tend to disagree though, there's just as much clutch friction as there would be when shifting.
If you do a revmatching to match the rpm with the speed, the wear on the clutch will radicly decrease, if you do a good effort to matchning the revs
Before the first test there was still fuels in the engine but the second there was not. I better more practical test would've been to fill it up and drive a certain number of laps/ miles and see home much fuel you used for each. Thats what everyone else does
Best fuel saving tip: be in the correct gear so you're not pushing the gas pedal down (without stalling). I know loads of people who never use their 5th gear because they feel it's slower to accelerate but once you reach the speed limit you should be cruising in your top gear with lowest revs to save fuel.
Change to a lower ratio final drive!
Yeah, change the gearbox, that will be super cheap
Hjembrent Kent Changing the final drive is not a change to the transmission.
Nick Amarit It is in a transverse front wheel drive car, the gearbox and final drive are one unit.
Tom Jackson Seriously? Never knew that... How do you add LSD to a transverse FF car then? I'm a RWD-only person, so I must apologize for my ignorance.
Nick Amarit www.google.co.uk/search?q=front+wheel+drive+transmission+diagram&client=ms-android-sonymobile&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwijjMTF76jRAhVCJcAKHUf-B4cQ_AUIBygB&biw=360&bih=512#imgrc=-ii9RMtwfm_zcM%3A
This diagram makes a good effort at explaining it. Drive comes in from the side, and then goes backwards a little into the differential. It all works exactly the same way as a RWD car, it's just all enclosed in the gearbox casing.
you can't really use a stock fuel tank to test accurate volume of fuel. Thats why almost every scientific test uses a dedicated 1 gallon secondary tank.
Removing the spare wheel is stupid. Weight is only bad if you brake hard. Weight acts as an inertial battery, if you use the energy stored in the weight to coast down the road it pretty much has zero impact on your fuel economy. I tested this hypothesis one day when I loaded my car up with 250kgs of compost, I used the energy stored in the weight to engine brake over a longer distance and my fuel economy was actually better with the weight in the car using this line of thinking. (I got about 78mpg on my drive home, my usual is around 72mpg). Weight does slightly increase rolling resistance but not by a huge amount, if you climb a hill with extra weight you do use more fuel but if you can use the potential energy you stored in that mass on the decent you could theoretically get better fuel economy on the simple fact that the energy stored in that mass was stored at a better engine break efficiency.
Tire rolling resistance falls as the treads wear down. So those new tires might have reduced MPG over the old ones, even though the new ones are LRR.
thats too much to pay. I would rather not have a car
BUSSWANKAAAH
"What can you do to achieve more MPG from your vehicle?" would be a good title...
With simple inexpensive modifications to weight and aerodynamics I brought my 1992 Geo Metro 3 cylinder hatchback up from 45 MPG highway, to 68.2 MPG. The first mod is to install an Econo-gauge so that you know what your fuel consumption is at any given time.
Move to Saudi Arabia and pay only 0.26$ US per liter :)
And get pulled over by a cop in a Ferrari.
Tap into Oxygen sensors wires , install a variable low voltage knob which will allow you to control fuel dosage. You can make the car run like a lawnmower or you can set it to rich fuel setting where it will be more powerful.
is that the polish way of increasing power, hacking into the o2 sensor to make the car run rich?
46 mpg?? why Polo is not sold in N.America? oh wait, VW is not considered green anymore?? ;-)
my rubbish Peugeot does 60+ MPG 46 is not that uncommon for a car in europe.
I think UK and US mpg are diffferent (1 USmpg is more than a UK mpg) but the lower octane fuel in America also means cars run at a lower compression ratio, so most cars have lower hp/litre engines and worse fuel economy (I think)
Alex, this is in very ideal conditions at the idle highway efficiency speed of 60 (most cars it's 55-60mph). My 1999 SAAB 9-3, it has a big turbo and a sport stage tune on it, it gets 15.7 average in the city with my regular driving. I hit the highway, turn on my cruise control and set myself at 60mph, guess how much I get?
37MPG average.
That's the magic of driving ideally.
Mihaly Lukacs Good point. I guess even VW Polo will look like a V8 truck on paper under my lead foot :-)
Remember that octane ratings are also different in the US and Europe
tldr: impossible...
I suspect new eco tyres have more rolling resistance than part worn normal tyres. But I agree that rain was probably the big factor here. In my own driving I notice the wind as the biggest factor. A strong headwind knocks 10mpg off. Even on an oval track I suspect the wind would be a factor.
turbo it.
Actually turbo boost use significantly more fuel.
Turbos don’t increase efficiency. That’s a mith
A turbo by itself does not increase fuel economy. Turbos are being put on small engine so they have more power when they need it. However, when you are driving normally in a city, the turbo is mostly not in use due to you being in low revs. Less power is being used at low revs. So, you have a time in the city when you are using low revs and low fuel, and the turbo for when you want to go a little faster. The turbo is increasing the fuel the engine is using by giving it more power when it is in use, so it is actually decresing the economy when it is being used. Like I said, the turbo is only there for a bit more power when you need it.
Maybe a bit too late now to say, but it's not scientific to test all those things together. That chip would clearly be the weakest link. LRR tires and pumping up your psi to just beneath the max on the tire wall is about as much as you can get.
Well that and cleaning the airfilter and changing to a slightly lighter oil.
I bet it was the ECU
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Come on you are just trying to make a tv show but you don't bother with the simple reality of things. So you needed air in the old tires, a new air filter for the engine, some new spark plugs. And IF the car was due for an oil change you could have added a higher viscosity oil. That would have made a small difference and you would had got your money back with time. If you really want to save fuel get a bicycle. :)
looks like VW did a good job
god i hate british money
It's objectively way better than USD but not as good as Canadian currency.
Dj Strings Music
no its not... the pound is horribly thick like an old vitamin pill... the worthless single and double pennies are bigger than the 5 and the 10... and the notes are unusable in daily life
Dj Strings Music
plus they reissue the shit so often i have more than once had to prove to the bank that my money is still good
Really, the £5 note has just been released, took 15 years or so to get it through, hardly call that "so often". What about our currency do you find difficult to use in daily life? If you are american it would surely be easier, each denomination is a different colour & size.
James Butler
you have to use mostly coins and they are all irregular size... so you often end up with this big pile of shit... when i was there i never wished so hard for one of those coin stacking devices... i was so glad for the automated check out machines i could stuff them full of coins cause often human tellers look crooked at you when you give them fists of coins... the smaller the coins the more crooked... and of course people standing in line hated me for counting the coins
Just install an electric motor and you save fuel!
Take out the spare tyre and have the correct tyre pressures. That's all you can do, other than servicing.
how silly to take the wheel and jack out and replace them with a can of shaving foam.
Although rain makes the surface more slippery, it also adds the fact that the tyres need to push that water out of the way, therefore using more fuel.
Not as much as you think. Pushing mL of water for a short period in a 2,500 lbs machine is not going to make any effect on your mileage. At best, 0.05 mpg.
the easiest way to improve the fuel economy is by installing a flat floor under the car to make it more aerodynamic. this mod is actually quite cheap to make on your own and you actually save a couple of percent of fuel
can you elaborate please?
@@patriciafaria5681 5mm thick shiet of plastic that won't melt from the heat radiated from the exhaust. Just to cover up as many parts of the floor where air can get trapped.
Did this to my 90s volvo estate and saved roughly 5% of the fuel usage on the High way.
Drain the fuel lines etc as well, or drive it till it runs out before first test.
The fuel pump, the "in" fuel line and return line, plus if it has a regulator bowl could easily make a 2 mile diff.
What part of this video you "Modify A Car" in any way? i saw just regular maitanance.
You're pretty naive, that's what you are. The chip can raise engine power, but remaining at 100km/h on cruise control your engine will consume exactly the same amount of fuel.
I had a remap on my golf gtd, fuel economy improved by10-15%
I wish channels like this would stop mentioning location specific things about fuel pricing as if it's fact for everyone. Here in the USA, there were some of the lowest fuel prices in a while in 2016. I remember not too long ago when it was over 4 dollars a gallon, but now, but it never went over 3 where I live in 2016, and almost alway stayed under $2.60.
Next time add intake, exhaust, headers and a PROPER TUNE! (Chips are 💩) AND TRY IT AGAIN!💯 YOU WILL GET AS AS AN INCREASE OF 1-2 MPGS AND MORE POWER!🤓
When I was going to tech school for my automotive papers my instructor told us that the wind resistance doubles in a car between 90 and 100 kph. now this was 25 years ago and I'm certain his info on that was out of date. But depending on the aerodynamics of the car I can see there being truth to it. I wonder what altering the speed would actually do in this case?
the numbers may not still be the same but the concept applies, the effect of resistance will go up exponentially as you try harder to go against it.
Highest gear and low rpm should be around the economical speed. This is probally 70/80 kph.