I also use torque seal as a marker so I can see if anything ever moves because I feel that if you keep checking them with a wrench after every wash---you mess up your loctite.
I use the red loctite this exact same way but my Yamaha manual says to torque these to 30ft lbs. I do this and I have never had any issues. Thanks for sharing this with us and I hope you guys have a Merry Christmas!!
HI Jay, may I suggest minor modification your procedure. Because the bolt heads are on an angle they locate and lock into the sprocket once you tighten it. If you tighten the bolts one at a time like you show the angle between the bolt and the sprocket may not line up after a few bolts are tightened. This can happen because the holes in the sprocket and the hub have clearance (lose fit) built in. When the angle on the bolt and the sprocket are properly aligned they actually lock together. It’s called a locking taper. I recommend lightly snugging all the bolts to allow proper alignment before the final tightening. This will make sure that you get the maximum amount of grip from the locking taper and the best possible alignment to the center line of the hub. Please keep the videos coming, I enjoy and learn lots.
Critical parts like wheels frequently come off vehicles because fasteners were only done up with rattle gun. In your case the nylocks probably save you but you should ALWAYS manually tighten after using a rattle gun
I buy the screws with green loctite already on them, I change them everytime I change sprockets since they are cheap and use my dewalt 20v impact to snug them up , then tighten up a bit with wrench while holding allen bit
I also use torque seal as a marker so I can see if anything ever moves because I feel that if you keep checking them with a wrench after every wash---you mess up your loctite.
I use the red loctite this exact same way but my Yamaha manual says to torque these to 30ft lbs. I do this and I have never had any issues. Thanks for sharing this with us and I hope you guys have a Merry Christmas!!
HI Jay, may I suggest minor modification your procedure. Because the bolt heads are on an angle they locate and lock into the sprocket once you tighten it. If you tighten the bolts one at a time like you show the angle between the bolt and the sprocket may not line up after a few bolts are tightened. This can happen because the holes in the sprocket and the hub have clearance (lose fit) built in. When the angle on the bolt and the sprocket are properly aligned they actually lock together. It’s called a locking taper. I recommend lightly snugging all the bolts to allow proper alignment before the final tightening. This will make sure that you get the maximum amount of grip from the locking taper and the best possible alignment to the center line of the hub. Please keep the videos coming, I enjoy and learn lots.
He’s too stubborn to take advice but I’m not. Thanks for the tip.
I mark each nut/allen head with a paint pen. Easy to spot if one has worked its way loose
Impact and nylocks, a few ugga duggas and it's never coming loose.
its all about the ugga dugga count
Critical parts like wheels frequently come off vehicles because fasteners were only done up with rattle gun. In your case the nylocks probably save you but you should ALWAYS manually tighten after using a rattle gun
I've never had a rear sprocket bolt come loose in 24 years and never use loctite, mostly Honda's
I buy the screws with green loctite already on them, I change them everytime I change sprockets since they are cheap and use my dewalt 20v impact to snug them up , then tighten up a bit with wrench while holding allen bit
Removing the sprocket is a nightmare to me … thanks for the helpful tip Jay 👍🏻
Merry Christmas 🎅!
Everyone does it different than the next guy so it's all good
Anybody have thoughts on titanium hardware for sprockets? Weight savings worth it? Dangerous?
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