My preference has always been long keel, solely because keel bolts make me nervous. They are not very easy to inspect properly. That being said... my dad's boat, on which I learned to sail, had bolts and despite the boat being over 20 years old at the time they were in excellent condition.
I was always fond of twin/bilge keels that were strong enough to be beached. I keep thinking about Wicked Salty and some of the others that have had to do an emergency haul. Would have been nifty to have the option of beaching the boat to do an emergency repair.
When I was young, we went to Wales for vacation and all the sailboats had twin bilge keels. At low tide, the harbor was completely dry and the sailboats were all standing upright just waiting for the tide to come back in again!
Very interesting video - thanks. You didn't mention lifting keels or centreboards. I'm naturally biased towards what we chose which is a Dutch designed full keel with a retractable centreboard. Popular in The Netherlands as there isn't much depth in many of the inland waterways. On a 54' boat we only draw 1.4m with the board up, but 2.8 with it fully down.
I have an Allmand 31 a boat with a long shallow split keel with a partial skeg hung rudder. Basically we are talking a fat coastal cruiser. My hope is to do some blue water sailing, but I expect much of my travels will be along the east coast of North America and into the Caribbean while short (or single) handed. In other words a compromise boat that isn't as stable as a full keel boat, and not as manoeuvrable as a fin keel, but... I bought the boat in August in Boston, MA, and while bringing the boat through the Erie Canal to Lake Ontario I was pleased with the trade-offs that had been make on this boat.
Ive got a fiberglass modified full keel. I like that my prop is safe and my rudder has a lower bearing. And when i run over a cray pot rope, she just slides off. Tracks well to a head wind under sail. Not a fast 42ft'er but she feels solid in the ocean
One of things I thought worth considering is the motion of the boat through the seas. Fin keels in steep waves do not have that "sea kindly" motion, but tend to slap or pound, and pivot at the wave crests. Hobby horsing seems to be more of an issue. We own a Bristol Channel Cutter 28 with a very full keel starting at the stem post. She can carry a ton of sail or very little.
Great vid.You are very knowledgeable. One major issue is Slower or Faster. After sailing MANY MANY MILES I Personally prefer a well built fast design yacht. The book Fastnet Force 10 provides us with that information. Mr. Ted. Yachts man of the year, made it with out any major issues. After sailing for my last 44 years I saw that if you have a lighter displacement yacht. You will sail farther and sail more. A heavy displacement yacht will make you motor more and sail less. It is a fact. In So cal and Mexico we have lighter winds. The security of having many tons of ballast under your feet is a nice feeling when your 100 + miles offshore. But the sound of the ocean and nature can't be beat. doing 10 + knots in the middle of the Pacific. Thank you for your great video. This is just something from an old yachtsman. Keep up the good work....
The fastnet disaster ( I can’t remember the year ) showed just the opposite. There is a very good book, ‘seaworthiness the forgotten factor’, that discusses this with lots of documentation. But, to each his own.
Thanks, that was very informative and helpful. Before this I just watched a 45 min. interview with Chris Beaumont of Kraken Yachts about integral keels, so I'd go for any form of an integral keel, like a full keel or a long keel, definitely not a bolted-on keel. My type of sailing is "never in a hurry to get anywhere, ever".😉
Yes i watched that documentary too! He described how boats are hyped to be blue water when they're anything but. And corners cut not just on the design level but also on the factory floor. Friday afternoon, the guys constructing the fibre glass laminate for the hull, they just want to go home quickly so they rush it and don't take care to get the laminate at the right temperature so it bonds properly. Chris's attention to detail is extraordinary. Needless to say, inner of his Kraken 50's, brand new, costs an absolute fortune. One and a half mill, but what a vessel, built like a tank but goes like a rocket.
I prefer the one I have on our Southerly, a grounding plate hung swing keel. Pros are high aspect ratio, variable ballast position (great for running), variable draft (good for deep water and shallow water sailing as well as beaching). Cons are complexity (more things to go wrong such as hinge pin and lift cable lifting mechanism), and interior cabin arrangement limitations, The main advantage to us is in canal boating.
Rigging Doctor Hi, ours is a 2001 S135B. It was La Jonquille, SV Aurora Leigh. You can google La Jonquille. I was designing a 39’ Bristol Channel Cutter before I first saw the Southerly keel solution (grounding plate hung swing keel) which I fell in love with straight away. So I cut the keel off the design I was doing and the swing keel fitted in perfectly. About then we decided to buy a boat rather than spend years building a boat that I might never finish. Another combination is the shoal draft long keel with a drop centre board (4’6 to 6’6 draft) which is what my first self built Samsom C’Quoia (Canadian design) boat was. As you say no boat is perfect. A boat design layout that I really like is the Triton Warrior 38 which could be done with a swing keel and the engine aft under the cockpit floor shaft forward into a transition box onto which you mount an electric motor for a full hybrid drive. The amidships pullman berth holds a lot of appeal, I think. I love what you are doing to your head. Very bold, and making it your own style. Its all part of the lifestyle and adventure. I fully support your all electric renewable energy principle. Our boat is fairly diesel centric but I have to find a way towards non fossil fuel systems. I don’t have a problem with using ethanol on the boat and perhaps the solution for our boat is to convert the engine to ED95, the cooking to a pressure ethanol stove, and a bigger battery bank with a 10 kw motor belt driving to the prop shaft. Getting Solar panels and a wind generator aboard are the first priorities though.
Personally, I divide fixed keels into three classes: Full, Long, and Short. A full keel extends the length of the Water Line. It's advantages are very good tracking and shallow draft. It works more like a snow plow than an airplane wing. It gets its lift from shoving water aside. A long keel is clearly longer than it is deep. Though it gets much of its lift from shoving water aside, it gets some aerodynamic lift. It also limits draft to some extent, but it's best attribute is roll dampening. A short keel is at least as deep as it is long, and gets all of its lift through aerodynamic forces. It is most effective of the three at going to windward. It also has the least friction drag. The shorter it is, the more true this is. Just thought this might help. I love your videos.
Guy's that's amazing info. Although i have a 28ft Bay cruiser, I purchased new in 1992. But I love sailboats. They're just so beautiful. I always see in a documentary, how they show the center keel snap off. And the boat in a split 2nd falls to it's side. No warning at all. 🙏 ⛵ ⛵
A couple weeks ago, I sailed from St. Maarten back to Ft. Pierce on a friends 1968 Person 44 Countess. It has the same hull as yours. It rode like a Cadillac, even in rough seas. No pounding, healing was minimal. Speed was awesome. The auto pilot was acting up (broke) and had a hard time steering above 6 kts. We had to keep reefing to slow her down. I was impressed with the performance. I'm into comfort not speed anyway. I'm sure in a tight marina it would be a handful to maneuver. Wisdom's hull would be awesome for me, however we plan on doing the ICW to the Outer banks so I guess our Modified on our Pearson 365 will have to do.
In the ICW you will be VERY happy with the shallower draft (and your diesel) ;) I have actually disconnected our electronic autopilot because the Monitor windsteering works so well. The ram arm of the autopilot was a constant drag on the steering and without it the helm is really light to the touch (as long as the sails are balanced)
depends 100% on your desired application. Cruising the world? go full keel encapsulated ballast, etc, preferably a boat from the 60s or early 70s for some of that 1.5-2 inch thick solid fiberglass goodness from the early days of composites where they didnt really know how to work with it yet so they just piled a TON in the molds to make sure it was strong. once a year vacations sailing with the family in the Bahamas? doesn't really matter because unless you wipe your ass with Benjamins, your not going to be buying a boat outright vs chartering anyway. going for performance/racing? Deep fin keel is the only way to go for good pointing in the wind and high (relative) speeds.
Full keels and long keels are the only way to go for coastal and offshore (non competition) work! One less thing to worry about for the skipper!!! A more comfortable ride and you can hove to in a storm!!
Really good explanation, liked the acknowledgement that things are gonna break & can you fix it (can YOU fix it!). There are few long keel boats made any more but thankfully a lot of the older fibreglass hulls have survived well and are now relatively cheap. They were mainly designed with long keels for no other reason than that's how wooden ones were built and the shape also lent itself to moulding. The wooden ones were built that way because that's what you could do with wood. Early fibreglass hulls were also overbuilt because nobody knew how good or not fibreglass would turn out to be. All of which happily means that we mere mortals can find a boat for not too much money that is capable of taking us anywhere we want to go. Happy days!
That’s exactly how it went with our boat “Wisdom”. Built in 1968 and way thicker than she would ever need to be. That durability is why we are still sailing today! Also, I bought her for a song and then spent a few years rebuilding her to make her ready for passage making, but I was starting with good bones.
Informative video, thank you. Although you incorporated most trade offs for keel design you didn't include draft. One of the full keel boats you showed (looked like a Morgen Out Island 40) had a very sallow draft, shallower than the much shorter racy one with the long blade keel. There is also swing keels great for shallow draft and deep draft for open ocean, popular in areas of high tidal ranges like the UK.
If ya have to keel haul your first mate for dereliction of duty[falling asleep during their watch] ,it is better to have a full keel. I see the wisdom behind your choice.
I have long keeled boat an Allegro 33, a swedish design. It has a very stable design. Similar boat has been sailed around Cap Horn and back. It flipped around without being demasted and the young couple went on to sail....
Depends on purpose for me.. you want a racing yacht then the deep bulb on end of thin keel is a reasonable choice. You want safe keel less likely to break off, protects rudder from impact and can handle a few bumps without ruining your day a nice full length keel would do me nicely.
first boat a 19 footer was a twin bilge keel, 2nd boat a mini tonner 22ft racer was a fin keel, 3rd boat a 29.5 footer is a stub keel / lift center board (1st boat a sadler seawych, 2nd a David Thomas Intro 22, current boat a Jeanneau Sundream 28
Let me start by saying that I have an Allied 36 with a full keel with cut away forefoot. In addition my keel has encapsulated ballast. That brings up my first comment. All full keels do not have ballast inside the fiberglass hull (encapsulated ballast). In fact many have external ballast bolted on to the botton of the keel or bolted on in front of a deadwood. An example of the former is a Tahiti ketch and the latter is used in the Hinckley Bermuda 40. For a boat with encapsulated ballast the keel is not attached to the hull since it is part of the hull. My Allied is a good example of that. The hull canoe body and the keel are a single piece of fiberglass that the ballast is put into. The ballast is then glassed over inside the hull to keep it in place and eliminate leaks should the keel be holed by a grounding. This sort of construction cannot have the keel come off since it is not separate from the hull. Beyond differences in grounding damage between full keel and fin keel boats, the biggest difference is in handling. That difference is NOT simply due to the keel type although that plays a big part. As a generalization, boats with a fin type keel have a very different hull form than a full keel boat. In the fin keel case the canoe body of the hull tends to have minimum draft and may be quite flat bottomed. That sort of boat is also generally built to be light to enhance performance. In contrast a significant percentage of full keel boats had more traditional wine glass shaped underbodies. Relative to a fin keel boat the same length the full keel design will tend to be quite heavy. As far a boat speed goes, both fin and full keel boats can achieve similar speeds (unless the fin keeler has sufficiently light displacement and a flat enough bottom to allow planing). It just takes more wind to push the full keel boat to a given speed than a fin keeler because power required for a given speed is proportional to displacement. What about handling. In general boats with a split underbody (separate keel and rudder) with have faster response to steering. Another factor is that it is actually quite easy to back a fin keel boat with a spade rudder in a controlled fashion. In contrast, a full keel boat tends to go where it wants to in reverse until you get quite a lot of speed up. The fin keel boat, because of its faster steering response will turn more quickly and is very easy to tack quickly in contrast to a full keel boat where tacking my require back winding the jib or in extreme cases furling the jib. Also a full keeled boat will come through the wind much more slowly than a fin keeled boat. What about sailing in larger seas. In this scenario the full keel boat will tend to track more steadily. That is a factor of both the large lateral plane area of the keel and the higher displacement of the boat relative to a fin keel boat. A fin keel boat with a shallow flat bottomed canoe body will be sitting mostly on top of the waves and will tend to get bashed around a lot and will take a lot of active steering to maintain a course. That is particularly true in following seas where a fin keel boat can easily pivot on the short chord keel and end up in a broach. While that can happen with a full keel boat, the large lateral surface area of the keel works against a following sea turning the boat. However, the relative shoal draft of most full keel boats works against the tracking. Finally the hull form plays a big role. Most fin keel boats have shallow relatively flat bottomed canoe bodies that can slam in steep seas as the boat's pitching completely lifts the forward end of the boat out of the water. When the flat bottomed canoe body drops back into the water it slams. In contrast the wine glass form of many full keel boats keeps more of the boat in the water when pitching and the hull form cuts through the water when the bow drops after a pitch rather than slamming down onto the water. Just my thoughts based on my limited sailing experience.
@Todd Dunne. Excellent response which contains significant "real world experience". Thank you for taking the time to contribute this knowledge. Post should really be "pinned" as it's very relevant to the video content.
@@johnmoore3859 thank you for the kind words. Those were just my thoughts based on my limited experience from 52 years of sailing and having worked as a naval architect back in the 70s. There is considerably more to it than I put into my post.
It's not just the leading edge that provides lateral resistance to bring the boat to windward, it is proportional to the surface area, at the expense of drag.
Yes, but the leading edge does the most so the rest of the keel is just drag. This is why foiling boats have such high aspect ratio foils: maximum efficiency with minimal drag. That said, these also need speed to work while a low aspect ratio foil will provide lots of lateral resistance at very slow speeds. This is why a full keel heaves to and drifts slower than a fin keel.
You have the most informative sailing videos I have found in regards to repairs, tweets and what to expect and how to deal with the day-to -day surprises. Thank you.
Those video series are giving a lot of information that is easy to understand. From design perspective I like the opposites long keel and catamarans. There are a lot of stories about charting modern design racer-cruising yachts, running aground and having nightmares with insurance, completely destroying your vacation. The problem is so big that you be better to hire a crew and a skipper just to avoid that risk.
Great video to help people choose their perfect boat. You didn't mention that the full keel provides a large lateral resistance, which is great for heaving to...and also allows the boat to track "as if it's on rails". The knot or so of speed you lose due to a larger wetted surface isn't the only downside.... The full keel is not very maneuverable astern. So, if you're going out for short trips and want to impress the folks at the marina when you dock, choose the fin keel...or at least one that is modified. Oh, and I didn't read all the comments, so if someone else covered these topics in the last 10 months, o well, my bad. Again, great video, great points.
one thing i miss on this explenation. it is how they behave. my previus boat had a long keel it was easer to trim and go in a strait line. than my current boat that has a fin keel and rudder on skeg. it is faster but turns more easely.
That has to do with the weather helm. You may be able to adjust the steering and the boat's tendency to want to point into the wind by adjusting the position of your sails or adding a bowsprit to your boat. Look up "weather helm adjustments".
My boat has a cast iron keel which is bolted to the hull, and a skeg rudder. However it's an older design (mid 1970s) so it has an integral "shoe" which is a wider flat portion at the top, which fits into a recess in the hull. It seems a good compromise, with the stress over a wider area.
Useful information. Thank you. I am well trained engineer and physicist/scientist. I appreciate your low key approach. A few numbers would be helpful. But overall a great introduction to a very complex topic. I use sophisticated simulation programs to give realistic estimates of real world performance. That is what the good designers should do. A map of the performance safe sailing world would be useful. Have one handy?
The full keel on the pilot house cruiser looked to be a good choice for ocean passage. That pilot house would sure make night watches more comfortable. Any idea of make and model of that boat. If you were stepping up I think it would be a good choice for you and Maddie. Nice conversation on keel types and their differences.
The boat i just bought is a SD, apparently, I thought it was a fin keel, after bumping the bottom a few times, I'm glad it is and the performance isn't really different from the fin keel model, some people say they won't point as high but I disagree.
Thanks for this video. It's the second time I watched. First time was when you originally published. I am sailing back home to Canada from Australia in about four years. Based on your video, I'm going for slow and safe so I guess that means buying a yacht with either full keel or long keel.
I’ve read stories about that route and a full keel or long keel will definitely be an asset to you! The story I read was the passage from Japan to the US, but Canada just means you don’t turn as far south as you approach ;)
@@RiggingDoctor I'm actually thinking about heading in the opposite direction. It seems easier. I've got lots of time as I'll be retired, plus I wanted to visit England which was where I spent the first 16 years of my life before I emigrated to Canada. The direction of travel will depend on the political situations closer to the time I actually leave Australia. I enjoy you videos by the way. Thanks for taking the time to make them.
Oh, you want to sail from Australia across the Indian Ocean, then across the Atlantic! That would be an epic adventure with a whole lot of beautiful sights to see!! We are glad you enjoy the videos :)
Everyone leaves them out I don't understand . They are by far the most practical option I would never consider anything else. I ain't paying slip fees and lift outs when mud docks are free.
I have seen a Folkeboot (full keel) that has lost the ballast. The bolts were rusted away. Since the boat was made of wood, it was then unsinkable. But that doesn't happen that often.
@Rigging Doctor You suggest long/full keel designs are ultimately safer because they are stronger, but it's important to consider other factors that will affect your safety, such as the behavior in bad seas. In a recent interview, the first two winners of the Golden Globe Race complained about the long keel / heavy displacement of their yachts, suggesting they were more dangerous than lighter displacements because they were more difficult to control, and rolled a lot more. Also in the GGR, Susie Goodall's boat pitchpoled, resulting in her Rustler 36 being dismasted. Pitchpoling is a rare event that seems more likely in a heavy boat that has no planing ability. Reality is that an efficient rudder is also important to have, and so is the ability to make good speed when running, and so is the ability to go upwind to avoid the coast, etc. You have to factor in all these things when discussing safety and making a design choice.
I've often wondered if trading speed and upwind ability for a keel designed that's more robust to groundings is really the safest choice ? Especially when you consider some of the better built & more conservative fin keel boats.
@@chrisgoguen765 I agree. Groundings are only one problem. When a design feature is considered, all potential problems that might be the cause of that feature should be analysed and balanced. It's the only way of studying boat design.
Long keel is pretty good for fulltime cruiser on a Monohull. Our BAMBA MARU has long keels - but she is a catamaran... and she was build for racing back in 1968. Whole different story. Can be a pain in the but - specialy with only one center engine ;-) Thanks for sharing! Great episode.
@@RiggingDoctor Well BAMBA MARU was still a Prototype. She helped to figure out how to build modern catamarans. It is a 1968 Prout Ocean Ranger. I found your Channel while looking for Infos. Rigging is one of the next Projects 😅
I was looking at a boat that looked great except it was listing about 1-2 deg. On his chart plotted he quickly exited his last trip which looked like it went into the shallows in a river here. I figured there was something wrong with the keel but never found out since he was resistant to giving me the USCG number. Big red flags of course but would that have been a likely cause for the list. Bilges were dry. The boat was well equipped and at a good price. Still sitting there too. It was a while ago but I'm almost certain it was a Contessa.
The old shape i.e a pilot cutter have a look at Elley Grey ideal for ocean crossing , also because no cut away forefoot it also motors much better , a fin keel does not motor well in any see state , Elley Grey 65ft OD 19 ft Beam 9knots crusing under power 10/12 knots under sail old shape but still fast and less lightly to catch lines .
She is gorgeous! In the Chesapeake, we would sometimes sail over a crab pot (that was in the middle of the channel with a dark float on it) that we didn’t see until we were on it. The keel would push it away from the prop and off at the stern; never fouling the prop!
I would also mention the manuver ability of having your propeller right before your rudder. Steering when under power is much more responsive With the quick water going directly past the rudder.
I’ve got a Pearson 30, which has a integral keel, glassed in. No keel bolts. Still a fin keel, but with some of the strength benefits of a full keel. Spade rudder, though, unfortunately.
Your chances of out running storms mid ocean are limited. You may get to a less windy part of a storm but i reckon it would be of slim benefit. It is incredibly rare for bolt keels to fall off.
@@TheSirUno Even harder in a yacht that cruses at around 6 kn. Though with advanced and more reliable weather predictions you can place yourself better.
A hard chine design like that give you more room in the cabin and probably has less rolling motion than the round bilge you have on Wisdom. Not being smart here but the keel design on your boat comes off a grounding much easier than that full keel would. I really liked it when you showed it. I suspect it would be a comfortable boat, but not fast, on the ocean.
No offense taken. Our keel actually matched the slope of that beach perfectly 🤪 In the ICW, we hit a few sandbars with speed and simply slid up over them. I wonder with a more vertical leading edge of the Alberg if it would have been more of a thud!
I would agree with that and with the long keel suction would make it even harder to break free. On the other side with the long keel you carrying the same weight and spreading it over a longer length so it probably has about a foot or so less draft. It's always about compromises. By the way, 400 amps at 48 volts dc is a huge load on you batteries. What is your total 48 volt charging capacity now? Thanks.
for someone shopping from scratch and you like the rudder hung from the keel or skeg ... ask yourself can the driveshaft be removed from the boat with out removing the rudder. Many can, those that can't make for a headache when replacing cutlass bearing or the driveshaft itself. let me comment on how much I enjoy your stuff
That is a very good point about the rudder and the shaft relation. Some full keel boat designers thought about that and made a bend in the rudder post to allow access to the shaft and cutlass by simply turning the rudder, other designers didn’t seem to take that into consideration and made the rudder post straight so that it is always in the way. Our Morgan has the straight post and when I needed to remove the shaft one time I had to pull the entire motor out so that I could pull the shaft inboard and then out through the companionway. It was a pain of a job! Our Alberg has a notch in the rudder post so that when you turn the rudder you can easily pull the shaft right out without any added work. Since you don’t have a boat yet, that is a very important thing to look at when shopping around!
I hope the keel works as an aquatic foil rather than an air foil, otherwise you have bigger problems than losing your keel. Excellent explanation of pros and cons.
Good video. What I realize is that almost everything I know about airplane wings applies to keels. Those long horizontal (slab) keels are a lot of drag. That first thin keel is actually the most efficient...but that huge epoxy gusset says it's never going to work. It's probably bolted in a small footprint which is why it needs those gussets. There's no reason why something of that shape can't take all the forces on it -- so long as you don't make it a hinge! That keel should've continued right into the hull and then have all it's side bracing done inside the bilge. Problem solved. The most efficient wings are those on sail planes, long and narrow. The same applies to anything you pull through the water. I still like the idea of swing keels. Hit something and it lifts out of the way. And you can park on the beach when you want. Ground on a sandbar? Winch it up. It's kind of the Cmd-Z Undo of boating. Are there rudders that swing out of the way? The ones on my kayaks do. I can't help but think that as the wings and the hydroplanes continue to develop along with machine learning and auto pilots (Tesla autonomous driving will eventually impact sail boats) that we'll see hydroplaning blue water cruisers. 20-30 knot boats skimming along, micro-adjustments being made multiple times a second, while you and your partner are snoozing...
That will be the future. With AIS, we all show up as dots on a map so collisions will be avoided! I like your view on swing keels, the undo button is great! They really are the best of both worlds: ultra efficient and comes out of the way so you can get to shore!
F.Y.I. If you are racing your long keeled boat in a conglomerate series against boats of different sizes with different keels, there are formulas used to assign handicaps to boats so that strengths and weaknesses of design that affect speed are considered and all boats are on an even playing field. So the results of the race can be determined by the strategies and skill of the skipper and crew on the boat not by the design of the boat.
I sail a full keeled boat with the rudder hung off the keel. Any orca attempting to break it off, is going to end-up with a real headache. For backing-up in a crowed marina, it gives me a headache. In fact, judging which way the stern is going to go, is a total crap-shoot (and I'm the crappy skipper they'd like to shoot.)
In 50 + years sailing iv hit 1 whale 1 orca 1 container a dozen or so logs Oh and several sand banks , touch wood never sunk (close on the orca one) all in different keal configurations but i must admit id feel safer 'relaxed' in a medium keal in a steel yacht with a good skeg on the rudder - fair winds (54ft. Round bilge .steel Vandestadt was the best)
I have two engineers exams in Sweden, of course not about sailing boats. English is not my language, I use my poor school English. Sorry if you don't understand me. Not your fault. I have to say, you are great.
Don't forget the "dagger" keel (long and thin) makes racing boats tack and gybe faster. They sort of pivot on the keel. Full keels need a bit more pressure to tack. But I like full keels for cruising.
Thanks for an interesting and informative video 👍 I was hoping you would bump into an Albin Vega on your tour, which I have, since it’s something in between all of the other boats. Maybe a semi-long, shallow keel!? But I guess it would be something like the weather helm will be good, and the rudder is well protected!? Please don’t mention the position of the prop 😅😂
Great talk and video. The word you were both looking for early in the video is COMPROMISE. Everything on a boat is a compromise. So you can't have the perfect boat for all people in all weather. Eg, extra head room makes for high windage in small and midsize boats. The thing you could talk about more in future videos is directional stability. The racing types love fast turns and there thin keels are set near the centre of the boats turning access. Cruisers like boats that do not broach. Having to take the helm for hours because the auto pilot can't move fast enough or is over powered by following seas is not fun. Hence the COMPROMISE of a modified long keel and skeg mounted rudder gained popularity. Not just because it supports the rudder shaft but also adds surface area aft to help the boat track straight.
I'm looking at a Contessa 26 and my friends told me that I won't be happy because it'll be so slow. What do you think? If you have two identical boats, one with a full keel and one with a race keel. Say for simplicity sake, the full keel boat top speed is 6 knots. What would the high aspect ratio keel boat top speed be? Obviously this would just be a guess..but what's your guess? Thank you:)
The top speeds will be the same because of the hull speed limit. Basically, the longer the boats waterline, the faster it can sail without planning. If both boys have the same waterline length, no top speed difference! The equation is: hull speed = (water line length in feet)^0.5 x 1.34 The big difference comes in light winds. A heavy full keel will need more wind to get going while a light boat will zip along. I went out on a race boat one time, it was only 20 feet long and we did 18 knots! Obviously it gets up on plane and exceeds hull speed, and it did this in light conditions. It was very fun but I would be terrified of that thing if a squall came up while out sailing. A heavy boat usually needs about 15-20 knots of wind to start sailing nicely. In my experience, when we are out sailing in light air days (10 knots of wind or less), everyone is motoring. The light boats and the heavy boats are all going hull speed under diesel power, so no one actually takes advantage of their ability to sail in light wind. My favorite was when we passed a guy who was motoring and we were on a beam reach. He had a very light Hunter and was going the same direction, he could have been sailing but was motoring through the light breeze. My opinion: Contessa makes a really nice solid boat that you can have fun playing around in and if you ever decide you want to go further (or if you get hit by a storm) you are already in a very capable boat.
Long keels can be bolted, fins can be encapsulated. Speed is a function of WLL and sail area not keel type. Keel type effecs windward ability and tracking and heaving to, like you said.
Yes, but keel types tend to affect wetted surface area and that affects speed. Hull speed is unchanging with keel design, but having less wetted surface area means you can go faster on less wind and therefore sail faster until you reach the speed limit dictated by waterline length.
What about bilge keels? And triple keels? And what is the difference between a triple keel and a long keel with bilge keel attachments? How does it help with rolling and sea motion? Turning? Going backwards? I have quite a few more questions haha
The aspect ratio of the fin on my keel is like a wing of an glider 😀 I love it, and pray to Poseydon not to put any floating objects on our "flight" path 😉
I bet skeg around 10:10 has steel bar inside which helps to protect the rudder. In this case fiberglass cracked due some load and skeg should be inspected so steel inside wont rot.
Excellent, very good explanation. Perhaps an upcoming vid on props/saildrives/shafts/etc. Those infront of the engine transmissions I'v always thought odd. Oh Maddie what have you done, could it have anything to do with Ladders? Cheers.
Interesting, My recent sailing is limited to a Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35, so I'm partial to that full keel. Perhaps not as response as newer boats, but so much more stable. And it will still turn in its' own length.
A separate discussion of multihulls would be useful, where righting moment does not come from ballast. In other words, part of the discussion about keels only applies to monohulls.
Unless your full keel is shaped with the idea of hydrodynamics in the racing days of wooden sloop so say a j class sloop is slow yeah right full keel and at the times the j class was new you could say the this was as comfortable and fast as a racing sailboat should be you should also think about weight of keel to hull construction which is supposed to be about 50/50 still bolted not fiberglass construction relying on bonds of glass I feel a hog a keelson and displacement ballast keel their is alot to say about old school racing sailboats either to much sail area
What about shoal draft modified fin keels and skeg hung rudder, that's what I'm going for, this is a very personal thing with no right or wrong answer, just the best fit for your requirements, personally if I could find such a boat, I'm going, steel full encapsulated keel, heavy moderate displacement 45' centre cockpit cutter with keel stepped mast and rodded standing rigging, impossible to find, I'd have to build her using either Van De Stadt, or Roberts plans and would cost a fortune, so my compromise is a smaller centre cockpit deck stepped bolt on modified fin shoal draft skeg rudder Moody 33' mk1 or 2, late 70's vintage, and certainly blue water capable, each unto their own, my second choice incidentally is the early 80's Pearson 352 shoal draft boat. Good video, the main thing is that you WILL HAVE TO COMPROMISE, and this doesn't only apply to sailing characteristics but space and liveability as well
Oh yeah! Sailing is all about making what you have work for you. Nothing is perfect and every improvement is going to bring other detriments. Just focus on the good and have a great time! You seem to be interested in shoal drafts. Where are you looking to cruise? We completely skipped the Florida Keys and Abocos in the Bahamas because they were shallow for us. I hear they are beautiful though!
Just a few things you didn’t mention, a full keel tendes to be shorter, therefore are better for shallower waters, but it is much harder to maneuver in the marinas.
What are your thoughts on bilge keels? they don't have any advantage in the open sea as far as i know, but they allow you to safely and easily let your boat fall dry in coastal areas with enough tide to do so. this allows you to explore your surroundings at low tide on foot and even gives you time for small repairs under the waterline in some places.
Bilge keels offer the advantage of letting you dry out with ease, but each bilge keel will either be fin or full (not totally full, but pretty darn lengthy fore/aft). So, they still fall into the performance features of the fin or full classes, just with double the drag (and the ability to stay up if you get caught in the tide).
The wedge keel with large over hangs are copys of the old j boats They tend to steer more easily while surfing down waves from what I have heard and they look classic
@Me Harkness, ya, nothing about lifting keels and ballasted centerboard boats like those on the Southerly / Dyscovery, Alubat, Garcia Exploration, some of the Oyster boats, etc.
Very good but you didn't go into multi keel forms such as double bilge keels or triple keels or drop keels, I would like to see a follow up to discuss the attributes of these because they are quite common but I would skirt over the modern racing fins and hydrofoils as they are very specialised.
This was just a very broad overview of fin and full keels. If we went into all of them, it would have been an hour long. We did do a separate one on bilge keels, but perhaps we’ll cover the others in the future as well. Thanks for watching!
The Morgan 45 is a long keel as is the Alberg 30, not a full keel. It is sea-kindly but the full keel still holds the cup for ultimate sea-kindliness and seaworthiness.
In the states, they call them all full keels (or modified full keels or cutaway full keels) but spending some tome with the English we have learned the distinction between full and long keels.
@@RiggingDoctor Ahh... I wasn't aware of that. Being the owner of a full-keel boat AND English, I'm very protective of the distinction. lol The other benefit of the full-keel is its capacity to carry water and fuel within the keel, low down below the waterline. I carry 150 gallons of water and 125 gallons of diesel, basically, over a ton of extra ballast.
The front edge doesn't do everything lol. you can't just have a pencil say with a weight at the bottom for a keel, even if it was structurally possible, yes that would give a righting moment but the water pressure to enable sailing to windward comes from the surface area, at the cost of drag. It's a compromise.
Actually the pencil edge is all we need, but we don’t have the materials to make a pencil keel. All it needs is a aerofoil shape that is as high aspect ratio as possible to give the most lift with the least drag.
In the rental market it seems most options are finned keels, which is a shame. Would be really nice to see more full keels which imho seem more suitable for beginners, even over shorter distances in familiar waters.
Just a quick thank you for the video. Very informative and well explained and easy to understand. Just one question which I don't know if you will be able to give some indication. How much cruising speed would you estimate would be lost between a full keel and a fin cruiser type keel if both boats were the same length.
This will play a big part in light winds. A full keel will sit while a fin keel will ghost along under the working sail. To counteract this, we have a suit of light air sails that let us ghost in very light winds. A full keel will still move along but will need a special set of sails in light wind. In high wind, both boats will have enough wind available to go as fast as the captain desires, and the heavier full keel will move more gently compared to the lighter fin keel who will be bouncing around. For sailors with diesels, both boats will be too slow in light winds and we see both of them motoring along at near hull speed when the winds are light 🤣 while we sit there moving at 1-2 knots with our light air sails.
My old boat, a Person 30, has an encapsulated, fin keel, which is molded in with the hull, so there are no keel bolts. My new boat, a Pearson 365, also has a modified full keel, which is also encapsulated lead, and a skeg hung rudder, and no keel bolts.
Very educational video, however, one design you did not mention is the design our Bristol 29 uses which is a modified full with a centerboard. O would've liked to have seen a little information about it.
I listened to this same argument before leaving from NY to Bermuda. I was on a boat this full keel sailor said was ridicules and unsafe. Our time to Bermuda was under 4 days, his time was about 7 days. He got caught in storms while we out ran storms. We recorded a top speed of 17.3 knots only flying a #4 jib with no sensation of motion, very smooth and comfortable sailing. He was totally exhausted when he arrived in Bermuda and would not leave his boat, just told me he got caught in a storm.
Then you hit a submerged sea container or a whale and rip the rudder and transom out of your boat - with any luck the full keel sailor will pick you up out of your liferaft as he bobs on by. There are plenty of online vids of yachts sinking from this very thing - if your crossing oceans alone. It's a tortoise and hare thing - full keel.
I mean, they pretty clearly stated that your keel ought to match your *personal* goals. No two random people are likely to have the same desires from a boat.
We bumped into a whale far off Georgia, it gave the boat an epic thump! Knocked us to port a few inches and scared the crap out of us! No damage, and we think the whale was ok as it was just a glancing blow. If we were in a fin keel, we would have had a very different set of events follow! Proud tortoise here 🤣
Amen to that! Why take 23 days to cross the Atlantic when it can be done in 16 days? because of an extremely low probability of hitting a floating object? And why do people think that hitting a floating object in a modern shaped boat must inevitably end in a disaster?
The big difference comes in light winds. A full keel has more drag so it needs more wind to power the sails and move it. A fin keel has less drag so it will sail faster than a full in light wind. Both are limited by hull speed (but racing fin keel boats can now plane and exceed hull speed). In heavy winds, a fin keel will bounce around because it’s lighter while a full keel will move just as fast but in a more comfortable fashion.
We are going to be sailing to there in April! I really like Center Board boats. The keel can swing down to give you excellent performance when you have the water depth and swing up out of the way when you get into shallow parts. The center board box is also in the shape of a full keel, so if you ground, you have a nice big strong area to take the impact. I would prefer a CB over a wing keel just for the ability to get the keel out of the way when you get into the shallows.
Important point about keel differences is associated maneuverability, particularly when going astern. How does your boat handle in tight spaces? Liked your video. Thanks!
We go forward and starboard 🤣 Med mooring is always a challenge but working with the prop walk and tossing a really long line to warp the boat into the slip is our go to method.
@@RiggingDoctor interesting! Some things are really difficult to picture in your head. Or, the worst phrase ever, to wrap my head around. If I can understand something, does that mean I can wrap my head around it? It's funny how some phrases are only one way...
@@mboyer68 I know what you mean (and English has some funny phrases). Something that really helps are images from tests that show the amount of lift generated and where with different colors on the design of the boat. The leading edge is always a bright red (lots of lift) and the rest of the keel, fin or full, is dark blue (low lift).
![WHY Two Headsails? [Cutter vs Slutter vs Solent] | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hQf_dmMduV4/mqdefault.jpg)
![WHY Two Headsails? [Cutter vs Slutter vs Solent] | Sailing Wisdom](/img/tr.png)
Which keel design do you prefer and what type of sailing do you do?
My preference has always been long keel, solely because keel bolts make me nervous. They are not very easy to inspect properly. That being said... my dad's boat, on which I learned to sail, had bolts and despite the boat being over 20 years old at the time they were in excellent condition.
I was always fond of twin/bilge keels that were strong enough to be beached. I keep thinking about Wicked Salty and some of the others that have had to do an emergency haul. Would have been nifty to have the option of beaching the boat to do an emergency repair.
When I was young, we went to Wales for vacation and all the sailboats had twin bilge keels. At low tide, the harbor was completely dry and the sailboats were all standing upright just waiting for the tide to come back in again!
Very interesting video - thanks.
You didn't mention lifting keels or centreboards. I'm naturally biased towards what we chose which is a Dutch designed full keel with a retractable centreboard. Popular in The Netherlands as there isn't much depth in many of the inland waterways. On a 54' boat we only draw 1.4m with the board up, but 2.8 with it fully down.
I have an Allmand 31 a boat with a long shallow split keel with a partial skeg hung rudder. Basically we are talking a fat coastal cruiser. My hope is to do some blue water sailing, but I expect much of my travels will be along the east coast of North America and into the Caribbean while short (or single) handed. In other words a compromise boat that isn't as stable as a full keel boat, and not as manoeuvrable as a fin keel, but... I bought the boat in August in Boston, MA, and while bringing the boat through the Erie Canal to Lake Ontario I was pleased with the trade-offs that had been make on this boat.
Yes, but you forgot to mention how the gentler, more seakindly motion of full keel boats lowers the probability of sprained ankles ...
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Ive got a fiberglass modified full keel. I like that my prop is safe and my rudder has a lower bearing. And when i run over a cray pot rope, she just slides off. Tracks well to a head wind under sail. Not a fast 42ft'er but she feels solid in the ocean
These videos are pure gold for people like me looking to buy my first boat! TYVM!!
Glad to help!
One of things I thought worth considering is the motion of the boat through the seas. Fin keels in steep waves do not have that "sea kindly" motion, but tend to slap or pound, and pivot at the wave crests. Hobby horsing seems to be more of an issue. We own a Bristol Channel Cutter 28 with a very full keel starting at the stem post. She can carry a ton of sail or very little.
as a beginner I'm now considering a fairing to front the fin keel. can't wait to see her out the water. thanks
Great vid.You are very knowledgeable. One major issue is Slower or Faster. After sailing MANY MANY MILES I Personally prefer a well built fast design yacht. The book Fastnet Force 10 provides us with that information. Mr. Ted. Yachts man of the year, made it with out any major issues. After sailing for my last 44 years I saw that if you have a lighter displacement yacht. You will sail farther and sail more. A heavy displacement yacht will make you motor more and sail less. It is a fact. In So cal and Mexico we have lighter winds. The security of having many tons of ballast under your feet is a nice feeling when your 100 + miles offshore. But the sound of the ocean and nature can't be beat. doing 10 + knots in the middle of the Pacific. Thank you for your great video. This is just something from an old yachtsman. Keep up the good work....
Passing trawlers without making a sound.
The fastnet disaster ( I can’t remember the year ) showed just the opposite. There is a very good book, ‘seaworthiness the forgotten factor’, that discusses this with lots of documentation. But, to each his own.
Thanks, that was very informative and helpful. Before this I just watched a 45 min. interview with Chris Beaumont of Kraken Yachts about integral keels, so I'd go for any form of an integral keel, like a full keel or a long keel, definitely not a bolted-on keel. My type of sailing is "never in a hurry to get anywhere, ever".😉
It’s definitely the safer way to go!
Yes i watched that documentary too! He described how boats are hyped to be blue water when they're anything but. And corners cut not just on the design level but also on the factory floor. Friday afternoon, the guys constructing the fibre glass laminate for the hull, they just want to go home quickly so they rush it and don't take care to get the laminate at the right temperature so it bonds properly. Chris's attention to detail is extraordinary. Needless to say, inner of his Kraken 50's, brand new, costs an absolute fortune. One and a half mill, but what a vessel, built like a tank but goes like a rocket.
Man, what a great informational video. What makes is great is actual examples in a boat yard and explanations.
I prefer the one I have on our Southerly, a grounding plate hung swing keel. Pros are high aspect ratio, variable ballast position (great for running), variable draft (good for deep water and shallow water sailing as well as beaching). Cons are complexity (more things to go wrong such as hinge pin and lift cable lifting mechanism), and interior cabin arrangement limitations, The main advantage to us is in canal boating.
Which model Southerly do you have? They are gorgeous “go anywhere” boats!
Rigging Doctor Hi, ours is a 2001 S135B. It was La Jonquille, SV Aurora Leigh. You can google La Jonquille. I was designing a 39’ Bristol Channel Cutter before I first saw the Southerly keel solution (grounding plate hung swing keel) which I fell in love with straight away. So I cut the keel off the design I was doing and the swing keel fitted in perfectly. About then we decided to buy a boat rather than spend years building a boat that I might never finish. Another combination is the shoal draft long keel with a drop centre board (4’6 to 6’6 draft) which is what my first self built Samsom C’Quoia (Canadian design) boat was. As you say no boat is perfect. A boat design layout that I really like is the Triton Warrior 38 which could be done with a swing keel and the engine aft under the cockpit floor shaft forward into a transition box onto which you mount an electric motor for a full hybrid drive. The amidships pullman berth holds a lot of appeal, I think.
I love what you are doing to your head. Very bold, and making it your own style. Its all part of the lifestyle and adventure. I fully support your all electric renewable energy principle. Our boat is fairly diesel centric but I have to find a way towards non fossil fuel systems. I don’t have a problem with using ethanol on the boat and perhaps the solution for our boat is to convert the engine to ED95, the cooking to a pressure ethanol stove, and a bigger battery bank with a 10 kw motor belt driving to the prop shaft. Getting Solar panels and a wind generator aboard are the first priorities though.
Personally, I divide fixed keels into three classes:
Full,
Long, and
Short.
A full keel extends the length of the Water Line. It's advantages are very good tracking and shallow draft. It works more like a snow plow than an airplane wing. It gets its lift from shoving water aside.
A long keel is clearly longer than it is deep. Though it gets much of its lift from shoving water aside, it gets some aerodynamic lift. It also limits draft to some extent, but it's best attribute is roll dampening.
A short keel is at least as deep as it is long, and gets all of its lift through aerodynamic forces. It is most effective of the three at going to windward. It also has the least friction drag. The shorter it is, the more true this is.
Just thought this might help.
I love your videos.
That’s a really good way to divide them up
Guy's that's amazing info. Although i have a 28ft Bay cruiser, I purchased new in 1992. But I love sailboats. They're just so beautiful. I always see in a documentary, how they show the center keel snap off. And the boat in a split 2nd falls to it's side. No warning at all. 🙏 ⛵ ⛵
It’s important to make sure that it’s all strong to avoid a quick catastrophe!
A couple weeks ago, I sailed from St. Maarten back to Ft. Pierce on a friends 1968 Person 44 Countess. It has the same hull as yours. It rode like a Cadillac, even in rough seas. No pounding, healing was minimal. Speed was awesome. The auto pilot was acting up (broke) and had a hard time steering above 6 kts. We had to keep reefing to slow her down. I was impressed with the performance. I'm into comfort not speed anyway. I'm sure in a tight marina it would be a handful to maneuver. Wisdom's hull would be awesome for me, however we plan on doing the ICW to the Outer banks so I guess our Modified on our Pearson 365 will have to do.
In the ICW you will be VERY happy with the shallower draft (and your diesel) ;)
I have actually disconnected our electronic autopilot because the Monitor windsteering works so well. The ram arm of the autopilot was a constant drag on the steering and without it the helm is really light to the touch (as long as the sails are balanced)
depends 100% on your desired application. Cruising the world? go full keel encapsulated ballast, etc, preferably a boat from the 60s or early 70s for some of that 1.5-2 inch thick solid fiberglass goodness from the early days of composites where they didnt really know how to work with it yet so they just piled a TON in the molds to make sure it was strong.
once a year vacations sailing with the family in the Bahamas? doesn't really matter because unless you wipe your ass with Benjamins, your not going to be buying a boat outright vs chartering anyway.
going for performance/racing? Deep fin keel is the only way to go for good pointing in the wind and high (relative) speeds.
Agreed 100%
The right boat depends on what you are going to do with it
Full keels and long keels are the only way to go for coastal and offshore (non competition) work! One less thing to worry about for the skipper!!! A more comfortable ride and you can hove to in a storm!!
I fully agree!
Really good explanation, liked the acknowledgement that things are gonna break & can you fix it (can YOU fix it!). There are few long keel boats made any more but thankfully a lot of the older fibreglass hulls have survived well and are now relatively cheap. They were mainly designed with long keels for no other reason than that's how wooden ones were built and the shape also lent itself to moulding. The wooden ones were built that way because that's what you could do with wood. Early fibreglass hulls were also overbuilt because nobody knew how good or not fibreglass would turn out to be. All of which happily means that we mere mortals can find a boat for not too much money that is capable of taking us anywhere we want to go. Happy days!
That’s exactly how it went with our boat “Wisdom”. Built in 1968 and way thicker than she would ever need to be. That durability is why we are still sailing today!
Also, I bought her for a song and then spent a few years rebuilding her to make her ready for passage making, but I was starting with good bones.
Informative video, thank you. Although you incorporated most trade offs for keel design you didn't include draft. One of the full keel boats you showed (looked like a Morgen Out Island 40) had a very sallow draft, shallower than the much shorter racy one with the long blade keel. There is also swing keels great for shallow draft and deep draft for open ocean, popular in areas of high tidal ranges like the UK.
Good point!
If ya have to keel haul your first mate for dereliction of duty[falling asleep during their watch] ,it is better to have a full keel. I see the wisdom behind your choice.
I have long keeled boat an Allegro 33, a swedish design.
It has a very stable design. Similar boat has been sailed around Cap Horn and back. It flipped around without being demasted and the young couple went on to sail....
Depends on purpose for me.. you want a racing yacht then the deep bulb on end of thin keel is a reasonable choice.
You want safe keel less likely to break off, protects rudder from impact and can handle a few bumps without ruining your day a nice full length keel would do me nicely.
That’s exactly the point! The “best keel” is the “best keel for your needs”.
first boat a 19 footer was a twin bilge keel, 2nd boat a mini tonner 22ft racer was a fin keel, 3rd boat a 29.5 footer is a stub keel / lift center board (1st boat a sadler seawych, 2nd a David Thomas Intro 22, current boat a Jeanneau Sundream 28
That is an impressive list of boats! Any favorites and any special handling characteristics?
Maddie slipped on a banana keel.
I have a long, shallow keel. Very shallow - 36' waterline length, but only 20" draft. Plus leeboards.
Let me start by saying that I have an Allied 36 with a full keel with cut away forefoot. In addition my keel has encapsulated ballast. That brings up my first comment.
All full keels do not have ballast inside the fiberglass hull (encapsulated ballast). In fact many have external ballast bolted on to the botton of the keel or bolted on in front of a deadwood. An example of the former is a Tahiti ketch and the latter is used in the Hinckley Bermuda 40. For a boat with encapsulated ballast the keel is not attached to the hull since it is part of the hull. My Allied is a good example of that. The hull canoe body and the keel are a single piece of fiberglass that the ballast is put into. The ballast is then glassed over inside the hull to keep it in place and eliminate leaks should the keel be holed by a grounding. This sort of construction cannot have the keel come off since it is not separate from the hull.
Beyond differences in grounding damage between full keel and fin keel boats, the biggest difference is in handling. That difference is NOT simply due to the keel type although that plays a big part. As a generalization, boats with a fin type keel have a very different hull form than a full keel boat. In the fin keel case the canoe body of the hull tends to have minimum draft and may be quite flat bottomed. That sort of boat is also generally built to be light to enhance performance. In contrast a significant percentage of full keel boats had more traditional wine glass shaped underbodies. Relative to a fin keel boat the same length the full keel design will tend to be quite heavy.
As far a boat speed goes, both fin and full keel boats can achieve similar speeds (unless the fin keeler has sufficiently light displacement and a flat enough bottom to allow planing). It just takes more wind to push the full keel boat to a given speed than a fin keeler because power required for a given speed is proportional to displacement.
What about handling. In general boats with a split underbody (separate keel and rudder) with have faster response to steering. Another factor is that it is actually quite easy to back a fin keel boat with a spade rudder in a controlled fashion. In contrast, a full keel boat tends to go where it wants to in reverse until you get quite a lot of speed up. The fin keel boat, because of its faster steering response will turn more quickly and is very easy to tack quickly in contrast to a full keel boat where tacking my require back winding the jib or in extreme cases furling the jib. Also a full keeled boat will come through the wind much more slowly than a fin keeled boat. What about sailing in larger seas. In this scenario the full keel boat will tend to track more steadily. That is a factor of both the large lateral plane area of the keel and the higher displacement of the boat relative to a fin keel boat. A fin keel boat with a shallow flat bottomed canoe body will be sitting mostly on top of the waves and will tend to get bashed around a lot and will take a lot of active steering to maintain a course. That is particularly true in following seas where a fin keel boat can easily pivot on the short chord keel and end up in a broach. While that can happen with a full keel boat, the large lateral surface area of the keel works against a following sea turning the boat. However, the relative shoal draft of most full keel boats works against the tracking. Finally the hull form plays a big role. Most fin keel boats have shallow relatively flat bottomed canoe bodies that can slam in steep seas as the boat's pitching completely lifts the forward end of the boat out of the water. When the flat bottomed canoe body drops back into the water it slams. In contrast the wine glass form of many full keel boats keeps more of the boat in the water when pitching and the hull form cuts through the water when the bow drops after a pitch rather than slamming down onto the water.
Just my thoughts based on my limited sailing experience.
That was very well explained, thank you!
@Todd Dunne. Excellent response which contains significant "real world experience". Thank you for taking the time to contribute this knowledge. Post should really be "pinned" as it's very relevant to the video content.
@@johnmoore3859 thank you for the kind words. Those were just my thoughts based on my limited experience from 52 years of sailing and having worked as a naval architect back in the 70s. There is considerably more to it than I put into my post.
It's not just the leading edge that provides lateral resistance to bring the boat to windward, it is proportional to the surface area, at the expense of drag.
Yes, but the leading edge does the most so the rest of the keel is just drag. This is why foiling boats have such high aspect ratio foils: maximum efficiency with minimal drag.
That said, these also need speed to work while a low aspect ratio foil will provide lots of lateral resistance at very slow speeds. This is why a full keel heaves to and drifts slower than a fin keel.
You have the most informative sailing videos I have found in regards to repairs, tweets and what to expect and how to deal with the day-to -day surprises. Thank you.
You are welcome
Those video series are giving a lot of information that is easy to understand.
From design perspective I like the opposites long keel and catamarans. There are a lot of stories about charting modern design racer-cruising yachts, running aground and having nightmares with insurance, completely destroying your vacation. The problem is so big that you be better to hire a crew and a skipper just to avoid that risk.
Great video to help people choose their perfect boat. You didn't mention that the full keel provides a large lateral resistance, which is great for heaving to...and also allows the boat to track "as if it's on rails". The knot or so of speed you lose due to a larger wetted surface isn't the only downside.... The full keel is not very maneuverable astern. So, if you're going out for short trips and want to impress the folks at the marina when you dock, choose the fin keel...or at least one that is modified. Oh, and I didn't read all the comments, so if someone else covered these topics in the last 10 months, o well, my bad. Again, great video, great points.
Very good points! We have hove to a few times and the slick has saved our bacon!
one thing i miss on this explenation. it is how they behave. my previus boat had a long keel it was easer to trim and go in a strait line. than my current boat that has a fin keel and rudder on skeg. it is faster but turns more easely.
That has to do with the weather helm. You may be able to adjust the steering and the boat's tendency to want to point into the wind by adjusting the position of your sails or adding a bowsprit to your boat. Look up "weather helm adjustments".
This is my third time watching this, thanks for the information again and again and again. LoL. Enjoy the Med
My boat has a cast iron keel which is bolted to the hull, and a skeg rudder. However it's an older design (mid 1970s) so it has an integral "shoe" which is a wider flat portion at the top, which fits into a recess in the hull. It seems a good compromise, with the stress over a wider area.
Sounds like the best of both worlds! Performance and strength
Useful information. Thank you. I am well trained engineer and physicist/scientist. I appreciate your low key approach. A few numbers would be helpful. But overall a great introduction to a very complex topic. I use sophisticated simulation programs to give realistic estimates of real world performance. That is what the good designers should do. A map of the performance safe sailing world would be useful. Have one handy?
I do not but I would love one. If you have one and would like to share, my email is riggingdr@gmail.com
The full keel on the pilot house cruiser looked to be a good choice for ocean passage. That pilot house would sure make night watches more comfortable. Any idea of make and model of that boat. If you were stepping up I think it would be a good choice for you and Maddie. Nice conversation on keel types and their differences.
It looked like a custom made steel boat. There were a lot of metal boats there from boat builders I had never heard of before.
The boat i just bought is a SD, apparently, I thought it was a fin keel, after bumping the bottom a few times, I'm glad it is and the performance isn't really different from the fin keel model, some people say they won't point as high but I disagree.
Great info. Especially for people like me who don’t care about speed!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this video. It's the second time I watched. First time was when you originally published. I am sailing back home to Canada from Australia in about four years. Based on your video, I'm going for slow and safe so I guess that means buying a yacht with either full keel or long keel.
I’ve read stories about that route and a full keel or long keel will definitely be an asset to you! The story I read was the passage from Japan to the US, but Canada just means you don’t turn as far south as you approach ;)
@@RiggingDoctor I'm actually thinking about heading in the opposite direction. It seems easier. I've got lots of time as I'll be retired, plus I wanted to visit England which was where I spent the first 16 years of my life before I emigrated to Canada. The direction of travel will depend on the political situations closer to the time I actually leave Australia. I enjoy you videos by the way. Thanks for taking the time to make them.
Oh, you want to sail from Australia across the Indian Ocean, then across the Atlantic! That would be an epic adventure with a whole lot of beautiful sights to see!!
We are glad you enjoy the videos :)
Can you talk about tween keels? the difference in stability and the ability to sail against the wind
Everyone leaves them out I don't understand . They are by far the most practical option I would never consider anything else.
I ain't paying slip fees and lift outs when mud docks are free.
I have seen a Folkeboot (full keel) that has lost the ballast.
The bolts were rusted away. Since the boat was made of wood, it was then unsinkable.
But that doesn't happen that often.
That is true, full keel doesn’t also mean internal ballast!
@Rigging Doctor You suggest long/full keel designs are ultimately safer because they are stronger, but it's important to consider other factors that will affect your safety, such as the behavior in bad seas.
In a recent interview, the first two winners of the Golden Globe Race complained about the long keel / heavy displacement of their yachts, suggesting they were more dangerous than lighter displacements because they were more difficult to control, and rolled a lot more. Also in the GGR, Susie Goodall's boat pitchpoled, resulting in her Rustler 36 being dismasted. Pitchpoling is a rare event that seems more likely in a heavy boat that has no planing ability.
Reality is that an efficient rudder is also important to have, and so is the ability to make good speed when running, and so is the ability to go upwind to avoid the coast, etc. You have to factor in all these things when discussing safety and making a design choice.
Very true! It is a all a balancing act.
Those must have been some insane seas to cause her to pitch pole!
I've often wondered if trading speed and upwind ability for a keel designed that's more robust to groundings is really the safest choice ? Especially when you consider some of the better built & more conservative fin keel boats.
@@chrisgoguen765 I agree. Groundings are only one problem. When a design feature is considered, all potential problems that might be the cause of that feature should be analysed and balanced. It's the only way of studying boat design.
A good introduction - next week swing keels and bilge keelers 😉
And catamarans And trimarans!
Long keel is pretty good for fulltime cruiser on a Monohull. Our BAMBA MARU has long keels - but she is a catamaran... and she was build for racing back in 1968. Whole different story. Can be a pain in the but - specialy with only one center engine ;-) Thanks for sharing! Great episode.
That sounds like an incredible setup! I got to check you guys out!
@@RiggingDoctor Well BAMBA MARU was still a Prototype. She helped to figure out how to build modern catamarans. It is a 1968 Prout Ocean Ranger. I found your Channel while looking for Infos. Rigging is one of the next Projects 😅
I was looking at a boat that looked great except it was listing about 1-2 deg. On his chart plotted he quickly exited his last trip which looked like it went into the shallows in a river here. I figured there was something wrong with the keel but never found out since he was resistant to giving me the USCG number. Big red flags of course but would that have been a likely cause for the list. Bilges were dry. The boat was well equipped and at a good price. Still sitting there too. It was a while ago but I'm almost certain it was a Contessa.
Good job catching the list! Nothing screams suspicious like an owner that doesn’t want to show his boat 🤔
The old shape i.e a pilot cutter have a look at Elley Grey ideal for ocean crossing , also because no cut away forefoot it also motors much better , a fin keel does not motor well in any see state , Elley Grey 65ft OD 19 ft Beam 9knots crusing under power 10/12 knots under sail old shape but still fast and less lightly to catch lines .
She is gorgeous! In the Chesapeake, we would sometimes sail over a crab pot (that was in the middle of the channel with a dark float on it) that we didn’t see until we were on it. The keel would push it away from the prop and off at the stern; never fouling the prop!
I would also mention the manuver ability of having your propeller right before your rudder. Steering when under power is much more responsive With the quick water going directly past the rudder.
Very true, we use our rudder and prop like a stern thruster to kick the stern over hard with a quick blast of power.
I’ve got a Pearson 30, which has a integral keel, glassed in. No keel bolts. Still a fin keel, but with some of the strength benefits of a full keel.
Spade rudder, though, unfortunately.
Uh, it is VERY difficult to choose a Keil for your sailboat it is not usually an replaceable item.
Your chances of out running storms mid ocean are limited. You may get to a less windy part of a storm but i reckon it would be of slim benefit. It is incredibly rare for bolt keels to fall off.
I was in the Navy for over 20 years, and never once were we able to outrun a storm - it's just not a thing. Mama Nature will always win. ;)
@@TheSirUno Even harder in a yacht that cruses at around 6 kn. Though with advanced and more reliable weather predictions you can place yourself better.
Fall off is rare, but cracking/getting loose at the bolts and start leaking, not so. My old boat did after fairly mild grounding in the sand.
A hard chine design like that give you more room in the cabin and probably has less rolling motion than the round bilge you have on Wisdom. Not being smart here but the keel design on your boat comes off a grounding much easier than that full keel would. I really liked it when you showed it. I suspect it would be a comfortable boat, but not fast, on the ocean.
No offense taken. Our keel actually matched the slope of that beach perfectly 🤪
In the ICW, we hit a few sandbars with speed and simply slid up over them. I wonder with a more vertical leading edge of the Alberg if it would have been more of a thud!
I would agree with that and with the long keel suction would make it even harder to break free. On the other side with the long keel you carrying the same weight and spreading it over a longer length so it probably has about a foot or so less draft. It's always about compromises. By the way, 400 amps at 48 volts dc is a huge load on you batteries. What is your total 48 volt charging capacity now? Thanks.
for someone shopping from scratch and you like the rudder hung from the keel or skeg ... ask yourself can the driveshaft be removed from the boat with out removing the rudder. Many can, those that can't make for a headache when replacing cutlass bearing or the driveshaft itself.
let me comment on how much I enjoy your stuff
That is a very good point about the rudder and the shaft relation. Some full keel boat designers thought about that and made a bend in the rudder post to allow access to the shaft and cutlass by simply turning the rudder, other designers didn’t seem to take that into consideration and made the rudder post straight so that it is always in the way.
Our Morgan has the straight post and when I needed to remove the shaft one time I had to pull the entire motor out so that I could pull the shaft inboard and then out through the companionway. It was a pain of a job! Our Alberg has a notch in the rudder post so that when you turn the rudder you can easily pull the shaft right out without any added work.
Since you don’t have a boat yet, that is a very important thing to look at when shopping around!
I hope the keel works as an aquatic foil rather than an air foil, otherwise you have bigger problems than losing your keel.
Excellent explanation of pros and cons.
Haha! Even though it’s underwater they refer to its shape as “airfoil”
Or aero foil
Bad Keel bolts can give you that sinking feeling.
🤣
Good video. What I realize is that almost everything I know about airplane wings applies to keels. Those long horizontal (slab) keels are a lot of drag. That first thin keel is actually the most efficient...but that huge epoxy gusset says it's never going to work. It's probably bolted in a small footprint which is why it needs those gussets. There's no reason why something of that shape can't take all the forces on it -- so long as you don't make it a hinge! That keel should've continued right into the hull and then have all it's side bracing done inside the bilge. Problem solved.
The most efficient wings are those on sail planes, long and narrow. The same applies to anything you pull through the water.
I still like the idea of swing keels. Hit something and it lifts out of the way. And you can park on the beach when you want. Ground on a sandbar? Winch it up. It's kind of the Cmd-Z Undo of boating. Are there rudders that swing out of the way? The ones on my kayaks do.
I can't help but think that as the wings and the hydroplanes continue to develop along with machine learning and auto pilots (Tesla autonomous driving will eventually impact sail boats) that we'll see hydroplaning blue water cruisers. 20-30 knot boats skimming along, micro-adjustments being made multiple times a second, while you and your partner are snoozing...
That will be the future. With AIS, we all show up as dots on a map so collisions will be avoided!
I like your view on swing keels, the undo button is great! They really are the best of both worlds: ultra efficient and comes out of the way so you can get to shore!
F.Y.I. If you are racing your long keeled boat in a conglomerate series against boats of different sizes with different keels, there are formulas used to assign handicaps to boats so that strengths and weaknesses of design that affect speed are considered and all boats are on an even playing field. So the results of the race can be determined by the strategies and skill of the skipper and crew on the boat not by the design of the boat.
guys! love you channel!! just found it!!
Welcome!
I sail a full keeled boat with the rudder hung off the keel. Any orca attempting to break it off, is going to end-up with a real headache. For backing-up in a crowed marina, it gives me a headache. In fact, judging which way the stern is going to go, is a total crap-shoot (and I'm the crappy skipper they'd like to shoot.)
Haha very poetic. We can relate to this though
In 50 + years sailing iv hit 1 whale 1 orca 1 container a dozen or so logs Oh and several sand banks , touch wood never sunk (close on the orca one) all in different keal configurations but i must admit id feel safer 'relaxed' in a medium keal in a steel yacht with a good skeg on the rudder - fair winds (54ft. Round bilge .steel Vandestadt was the best)
That was a great one guys. Wonderful explanation and just what I am looking for in a sailing channel. Thank you both.
I have two engineers exams in Sweden, of course not about sailing boats. English is not my language, I use my poor school English. Sorry if you don't understand me. Not your fault. I have to say, you are great.
That leg motion makes me want a swing keel.
Don't forget the "dagger" keel (long and thin) makes racing boats tack and gybe faster. They sort of pivot on the keel.
Full keels need a bit more pressure to tack.
But I like full keels for cruising.
Very much, fins for racing fulls for cruising
Thanks for an interesting and informative video 👍 I was hoping you would bump into an Albin Vega on your tour, which I have, since it’s something in between all of the other boats. Maybe a semi-long, shallow keel!? But I guess it would be something like the weather helm will be good, and the rudder is well protected!? Please don’t mention the position of the prop 😅😂
Great talk and video.
The word you were both looking for early in the video is COMPROMISE. Everything on a boat is a compromise. So you can't have the perfect boat for all people in all weather. Eg, extra head room makes for high windage in small and midsize boats.
The thing you could talk about more in future videos is directional stability.
The racing types love fast turns and there thin keels are set near the centre of the boats turning access.
Cruisers like boats that do not broach. Having to take the helm for hours because the auto pilot can't move fast enough or is over powered by following seas is not fun. Hence the COMPROMISE of a modified long keel and skeg mounted rudder gained popularity. Not just because it supports the rudder shaft but also adds surface area aft to help the boat track straight.
thanks for the info. Now, where I go to find my beginner sailboat for North Okanagan
Yacht World is where I have bought both of my boats.
I'm looking at a Contessa 26 and my friends told me that I won't be happy because it'll be so slow. What do you think?
If you have two identical boats, one with a full keel and one with a race keel. Say for simplicity sake, the full keel boat top speed is 6 knots. What would the high aspect ratio keel boat top speed be? Obviously this would just be a guess..but what's your guess? Thank you:)
The top speeds will be the same because of the hull speed limit. Basically, the longer the boats waterline, the faster it can sail without planning. If both boys have the same waterline length, no top speed difference! The equation is: hull speed = (water line length in feet)^0.5 x 1.34
The big difference comes in light winds. A heavy full keel will need more wind to get going while a light boat will zip along. I went out on a race boat one time, it was only 20 feet long and we did 18 knots! Obviously it gets up on plane and exceeds hull speed, and it did this in light conditions. It was very fun but I would be terrified of that thing if a squall came up while out sailing. A heavy boat usually needs about 15-20 knots of wind to start sailing nicely.
In my experience, when we are out sailing in light air days (10 knots of wind or less), everyone is motoring. The light boats and the heavy boats are all going hull speed under diesel power, so no one actually takes advantage of their ability to sail in light wind. My favorite was when we passed a guy who was motoring and we were on a beam reach. He had a very light Hunter and was going the same direction, he could have been sailing but was motoring through the light breeze.
My opinion: Contessa makes a really nice solid boat that you can have fun playing around in and if you ever decide you want to go further (or if you get hit by a storm) you are already in a very capable boat.
Long keels can be bolted, fins can be encapsulated. Speed is a function of WLL and sail area not keel type. Keel type effecs windward ability and tracking and heaving to, like you said.
Yes, but keel types tend to affect wetted surface area and that affects speed. Hull speed is unchanging with keel design, but having less wetted surface area means you can go faster on less wind and therefore sail faster until you reach the speed limit dictated by waterline length.
What about bilge keels? And triple keels? And what is the difference between a triple keel and a long keel with bilge keel attachments? How does it help with rolling and sea motion? Turning? Going backwards?
I have quite a few more questions haha
The aspect ratio of the fin on my keel is like a wing of an glider 😀
I love it, and pray to Poseydon not to put any floating objects on our "flight" path 😉
Well said!
I bet skeg around 10:10 has steel bar inside which helps to protect the rudder. In this case fiberglass cracked due some load and skeg should be inspected so steel inside wont rot.
Just glad it’s not my boat!
Excellent, very good explanation. Perhaps an upcoming vid on props/saildrives/shafts/etc. Those infront of the engine transmissions I'v always thought odd. Oh Maddie what have you done, could it have anything to do with Ladders? Cheers.
Good topic!
Maddie slipped in a museum. Being a tourist is dangerous :P
Simply,...Thanks very helpful! Sail on!
Great explanations on the different types of keels. You might have talked about bolt on vs encapsulated as well.
That is a great topic! We will make that video shortly
Interesting, My recent sailing is limited to a Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35, so I'm partial to that full keel. Perhaps not as response as newer boats, but so much more stable. And it will still turn in its' own length.
Very true!
A separate discussion of multihulls would be useful, where righting moment does not come from ballast. In other words, part of the discussion about keels only applies to monohulls.
True, but when the hull is flying, it becomes ballast 😉
Unless your full keel is shaped with the idea of hydrodynamics in the racing days of wooden sloop so say a j class sloop is slow yeah right full keel and at the times the j class was new you could say the this was as comfortable and fast as a racing sailboat should be you should also think about weight of keel to hull construction which is supposed to be about 50/50 still bolted not fiberglass construction relying on bonds of glass I feel a hog a keelson and displacement ballast keel their is alot to say about old school racing sailboats either to much sail area
What about shoal draft modified fin keels and skeg hung rudder, that's what I'm going for, this is a very personal thing with no right or wrong answer, just the best fit for your requirements, personally if I could find such a boat, I'm going, steel full encapsulated keel, heavy moderate displacement 45' centre cockpit cutter with keel stepped mast and rodded standing rigging, impossible to find, I'd have to build her using either Van De Stadt, or Roberts plans and would cost a fortune, so my compromise is a smaller centre cockpit deck stepped bolt on modified fin shoal draft skeg rudder Moody 33' mk1 or 2, late 70's vintage, and certainly blue water capable, each unto their own, my second choice incidentally is the early 80's Pearson 352 shoal draft boat. Good video, the main thing is that you WILL HAVE TO COMPROMISE, and this doesn't only apply to sailing characteristics but space and liveability as well
Oh yeah! Sailing is all about making what you have work for you. Nothing is perfect and every improvement is going to bring other detriments.
Just focus on the good and have a great time!
You seem to be interested in shoal drafts. Where are you looking to cruise? We completely skipped the Florida Keys and Abocos in the Bahamas because they were shallow for us. I hear they are beautiful though!
thanks for taking the time to show us the types of keels..and get well soon dear lady. thanks for sharing
Just a few things you didn’t mention, a full keel tendes to be shorter, therefore are better for shallower waters, but it is much harder to maneuver in the marinas.
Very good point
What are your thoughts on bilge keels? they don't have any advantage in the open sea as far as i know, but they allow you to safely and easily let your boat fall dry in coastal areas with enough tide to do so. this allows you to explore your surroundings at low tide on foot and even gives you time for small repairs under the waterline in some places.
Bilge keels offer the advantage of letting you dry out with ease, but each bilge keel will either be fin or full (not totally full, but pretty darn lengthy fore/aft). So, they still fall into the performance features of the fin or full classes, just with double the drag (and the ability to stay up if you get caught in the tide).
@@RiggingDoctor Just saw episode 91 of sailing wisdom. not falling over seems to be nice enough to mention ;)
The wedge keel with large over hangs are copys of the old j boats
They tend to steer more easily while surfing down waves from what I have heard and they look classic
Yup!
you forgot drop keel, was hoping to learn more :(
@Me Harkness, ya, nothing about lifting keels and ballasted centerboard boats like those on the Southerly / Dyscovery, Alubat, Garcia Exploration, some of the Oyster boats, etc.
Lol
Thank you for the video 👏 full keel it is.
You made a wise choice!
Very good but you didn't go into multi keel forms such as double bilge keels or triple keels or drop keels, I would like to see a follow up to discuss the attributes of these because they are quite common but I would skirt over the modern racing fins and hydrofoils as they are very specialised.
This was just a very broad overview of fin and full keels. If we went into all of them, it would have been an hour long. We did do a separate one on bilge keels, but perhaps we’ll cover the others in the future as well. Thanks for watching!
Video on bilge keels: ruclips.net/video/7pddUJ8qgFI/видео.html
The Morgan 45 is a long keel as is the Alberg 30, not a full keel. It is sea-kindly but the full keel still holds the cup for ultimate sea-kindliness and seaworthiness.
In the states, they call them all full keels (or modified full keels or cutaway full keels) but spending some tome with the English we have learned the distinction between full and long keels.
@@RiggingDoctor Ahh... I wasn't aware of that. Being the owner of a full-keel boat AND English, I'm very protective of the distinction. lol The other benefit of the full-keel is its capacity to carry water and fuel within the keel, low down below the waterline. I carry 150 gallons of water and 125 gallons of diesel, basically, over a ton of extra ballast.
I've got a South Coast 23, restoration in progress, so I saw the video preview image and my mind immediately screamed "Alberg!"
It was so cool to see it in the yard. They are really capable boats!
The front edge doesn't do everything lol. you can't just have a pencil say with a weight at the bottom for a keel, even if it was structurally possible, yes that would give a righting moment but the water pressure to enable sailing to windward comes from the surface area, at the cost of drag. It's a compromise.
Actually the pencil edge is all we need, but we don’t have the materials to make a pencil keel. All it needs is a aerofoil shape that is as high aspect ratio as possible to give the most lift with the least drag.
Blue
I would have liked to have had a pro/con on a swing keel set up
They are awesome systems!
In the rental market it seems most options are finned keels, which is a shame. Would be really nice to see more full keels which imho seem more suitable for beginners, even over shorter distances in familiar waters.
Just a quick thank you for the video. Very informative and well explained and easy to understand. Just one question which I don't know if you will be able to give some indication. How much cruising speed would you estimate would be lost between a full keel and a fin cruiser type keel if both boats were the same length.
This will play a big part in light winds. A full keel will sit while a fin keel will ghost along under the working sail. To counteract this, we have a suit of light air sails that let us ghost in very light winds.
A full keel will still move along but will need a special set of sails in light wind. In high wind, both boats will have enough wind available to go as fast as the captain desires, and the heavier full keel will move more gently compared to the lighter fin keel who will be bouncing around.
For sailors with diesels, both boats will be too slow in light winds and we see both of them motoring along at near hull speed when the winds are light 🤣 while we sit there moving at 1-2 knots with our light air sails.
My old boat, a Person 30, has an encapsulated, fin keel, which is molded in with the hull, so there are no keel bolts. My new boat, a Pearson 365, also has a modified full keel, which is also encapsulated lead, and a skeg hung rudder, and no keel bolts.
Nice, keep it simple and secure
Very educational video, however, one design you did not mention is the design our Bristol 29 uses which is a modified full with a centerboard. O would've liked to have seen a little information about it.
I listened to this same argument before leaving from NY to Bermuda. I was on a boat this full keel sailor said was ridicules and unsafe. Our time to Bermuda was under 4 days, his time was about 7 days. He got caught in storms while we out ran storms. We recorded a top speed of 17.3 knots only flying a #4 jib with no sensation of motion, very smooth and comfortable sailing. He was totally exhausted when he arrived in Bermuda and would not leave his boat, just told me he got caught in a storm.
Then you hit a submerged sea container or a whale and rip the rudder and transom out of your boat - with any luck the full keel sailor will pick you up out of your liferaft as he bobs on by. There are plenty of online vids of yachts sinking from this very thing - if your crossing oceans alone. It's a tortoise and hare thing - full keel.
I mean, they pretty clearly stated that your keel ought to match your *personal* goals. No two random people are likely to have the same desires from a boat.
Carl Outrunning storms is not going to end well.
We bumped into a whale far off Georgia, it gave the boat an epic thump! Knocked us to port a few inches and scared the crap out of us! No damage, and we think the whale was ok as it was just a glancing blow. If we were in a fin keel, we would have had a very different set of events follow!
Proud tortoise here 🤣
Amen to that!
Why take 23 days to cross the Atlantic when it can be done in 16 days?
because of an extremely low probability of hitting a floating object?
And why do people think that hitting a floating object in a modern shaped boat must inevitably end in a disaster?
Do you have any videos showing the lifting mechanism for a retractable bulb keel?
I do not but I would love to film one of those!
What is the difference in speed between the two keels? Assuming everything is equal.
The fin keel is faster than the full. It’s impossible to have exact numbers because every boat weighs and sails differently
The big difference comes in light winds. A full keel has more drag so it needs more wind to power the sails and move it. A fin keel has less drag so it will sail faster than a full in light wind.
Both are limited by hull speed (but racing fin keel boats can now plane and exceed hull speed). In heavy winds, a fin keel will bounce around because it’s lighter while a full keel will move just as fast but in a more comfortable fashion.
How does keel and rudder affect backing and close quarters maneuvering? eg backing into a slip.
robert baginski I actually covered this in great detail in this video: ruclips.net/video/E1dt19C_vxE/видео.html
I live in Miami Florida I sail in Biscayne Bay which is not a very deep Bay which type Keel do you recommend
We are going to be sailing to there in April!
I really like Center Board boats. The keel can swing down to give you excellent performance when you have the water depth and swing up out of the way when you get into shallow parts. The center board box is also in the shape of a full keel, so if you ground, you have a nice big strong area to take the impact.
I would prefer a CB over a wing keel just for the ability to get the keel out of the way when you get into the shallows.
Been watching Leo rebuild Tally ho....now thats a proper keel...lol
Oh yeah!
I like a shoal keel with a centerboard. These were not discussed.
Important point about keel differences is associated maneuverability, particularly when going astern. How does your boat handle in tight spaces? Liked your video. Thanks!
We go forward and starboard 🤣
Med mooring is always a challenge but working with the prop walk and tossing a really long line to warp the boat into the slip is our go to method.
Hope you are back on your feet real soon!
Edit...The leading edge of the keel doesn't...does create lift, the lift is not generated by water flowing across the profile..a vertical wing. 😊
The keel is a vertical wing but the region of the keel where the lift is occurring is the leading edge, the rest is all drag.
@@RiggingDoctor interesting! Some things are really difficult to picture in your head. Or, the worst phrase ever, to wrap my head around. If I can understand something, does that mean I can wrap my head around it? It's funny how some phrases are only one way...
@@mboyer68 I know what you mean (and English has some funny phrases). Something that really helps are images from tests that show the amount of lift generated and where with different colors on the design of the boat. The leading edge is always a bright red (lots of lift) and the rest of the keel, fin or full, is dark blue (low lift).