Let the head soak in automatic transmission fluid it works great. I collect antique ratchets and for the ones that I find that are seized from being neglected and super rusty I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf. The acetone will forge a path and eat through the rust and the atf creeps through after to lubricate. Being that these ratchets are new , I’d just use the atf.
I thought about atf as well but engine oil won out. Mostly for the additives and thicker viscosity which will allow it to stay in the head longer without leaking out.
ATF is too low viscosity for these. It will work, however these ratchets like some lightweight oil of a bit higher than the ISO ~30 of ATF up to ISO 68 better.
You need to work out how to unseal the seal in the sealed head ratchets. Once u work that out you can operate on them like a surgeon to reduce backdrag.
I second transmission fluid. I have some Kobalt ratchets that had some not so good back drag. I took mine apart and dropped a few drops of transmission fluid on the gears and put it back together. They are much better now. I also have a cheap Task Force ratchet I tried that with and it didn’t work, it still sucks.
@@boosted2.4_sky true but it also has a “runnier” viscosity to won’t help it stay long term in the ratchet. It also doesn’t have all the additives that oil has either. 👍🏻
Great video. Glad to see you came up with a solution to fix these a bit. I know a lot of people purchased these on discount and they are having troubles with them. An old timer I knew swore by soaking his ratchets in Transmission Fluid over night about once a month. I always did the same with non-rebuildables. It always seemed to help.
I had read somewhere that it is due to EPA laws regarding banned imported substances. Not sure if it's true or not. The explanation got pretty knee deep in technical jumbled language, but basically it's because nothing prevents the lube from migrating off of the ratchet into the environment. Pretty ridiculous if you ask me. I miss the good old days.
I have over 60 ratchets and I agree. It really is hit or miss on if they are greased from the factory or not. Sometimes you can get 2 of the same branded ratchets and one has lube and the other doesn't. I have a few of these V series ratchets and the backdrag is the worst lol.
Maybe if someone bought these for me as a gift or I was just starting out and happened to catch these Craftsman v series while they were on closeout I would buy them. For anyone else with a decent selection of ratchets or can buy something better I would just do that. I can't really see any reason to bother with these. Just my thoughts. This video will help the guys that bought them though. Thanks for the helpful content.
As you mentioned once you get some use on the ratchet it does tend to loosen up. I do have older USA Craftsman and Snap On ratchets and the V Series is a good in between at the discount I picked them up at. At full retail I probably would not buy them but otherwise I am happy with them.
I first tried to add oil throuh the direction lever and put them on the top of the washing machine while doing laundry to let the vibration agitate the oil in which seemed to help a little bit. What worked best was pretty much the same thing as your drill but instead used an impact wrench and hex bit socket on the ratchet and corresponding size socket on the impact wrench. This made them very smooth and better than my gear wrench 90t.
Many new ratchets, regardless of the manufacturer, will require a period of breaking in. Some more than others. In a shop environment where a ratchet is used daily the process will be quicker. Craftsman ratchets had always been able to be disassembled for cleaning and lubrication. Stanley Black & Decker patterned these ratchets after the Mac and Proto design. Why they didn't make the V Series ratchets serviceable like their Mac and Proto cousins is a mystery. Jeff @ Jeff's Garage Adventures gave some V Series 3/8 flex head ratchets to some local shops in his area for evaluation. The shops reported that the ratchets freed up after constant daily use and they felt that the V Series was a decent ratchet. At full retail price I can see where one would expect a relatively smooth mechanism out of the box. With the recent deep discounts on the V Series it isn't a lot of trouble to give them a soak in some sort of low viscosity oil. It would be interesting to get a handful of ratchets, take a reading of back drag with a measuring device, soak each one in a different oil and take a second reading.
@@mlieser1230 I’m confident they will free up as they get used some more. I may do a video on the calculated differences in backdrag if it’s something people are interested in. 👍🏻
Do you believe the oil can affect any grease heavier than motor oil that is on the gear/pall? I imagine worst case scenario, they could sit in oil every few months if that is your primary method of lubrication. Also, how would this affect a sealed head system like the Gearwrench? Good video.
Yes it will mix and dilute the grease. If the head is sealed the oil will stay in longer. Really depends on your application but you might only need to do this once a year or so.
Good information. I've been using the same USA made ratchets since the 1970s. Once a year from day one I soak the heads in a jar of ATF and I've never had a problem with them. They work as well now as they did when new.
Nice. You can just spray some WD-40 specialist silicone lube under selector switch. That will fully lubricate internals. The problem is that the pawl springs are too stiff. The right amount of spring tension will prevent skipping but still have low backdrag.
That would also be an improvement however I would like to see a heavier oil used. Spring tension is important too but there is no adjustment with this ratchet.
@ThingsMen for the win! Thanks for taking the time to share this. It turns the only downsides with these V-series tools into a positive. FYI, my local Lowe’s has the 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2” kits back in stock and they reduced the price down to $35 instead of $40 now.
You’re welcome. I know a lot of us jumped on these ratchets and sets. It’s unfortunate they didn’t lube or make these serviceable but the ratchets are good quality. 👍🏻
2 thoughts for what could be better results. Use a glass jar with 0-50 on a hot plate, that will thin the oil while it gets in, and once cool it will thicken up. If you really want to ensure full oil fill, pulling a vacuum on the oil jar should suck all the air out of the ratchet snd completely fill it.
@@Dan-wt7jx great points. I was planning on #2 if this didn’t work but realized most wouldn’t be able to easily replicate the process. Also that method would fully fill the ratchet with oil which would require much of it to drain back out. We just need a fraction of that in the head to do its job well. Thanks again. 👍🏻
@ThingsMen doing now. A few of them had noticable/acceptable changes after an hour of soaking. I'm going to leave the troublesome ones in oil overnight. Let's see what happens.
I think. It's a fine ratchet , and with the deep discounts at lowe's , i got what I wanted , in the early 80s, when I worked in a shop, we soaked our ratchet heads in ATF overnight , it always helped , great job thank you Merry christmas
Great video I'm curious as to why you used 5 W 30 instead of transmission fluid, like most people do. Not saying it's wrong. I personally use Lucas air gun oil. Thanks for all you do it's much appreciated. And Merry Christmas. Thanks Man
@@michaellindsay8934 it was a close call but I like the slightly higher viscosity and added wear ingredients found in motor oil. It also does a better job clinging to metal parts. I want the oil to stay in and not seep out. 👍🏻
ATF works OK for these, but is too high of a viscosity, they do a bit better with a lightweight oil with ISO viscosity of up to the 60s. The ATF has ISO viscosity of only around 30 and might cause them to sound a bit crackly and feel like they are skipping. Try something a bit thicker, ISO 68 lightweight oil seems to work much better.
My advice would be to submerge (and maybe disassemble) the ratchet head in brake cleaner to wash out all the cheap gummy crap grease they put in the head from the factory. Maybe even consider an ultrasonic cleaner. And then *limited* application of a small amount of high quality, thin low viscosity oil. Remember, the more oil you apply, the more dirt, dust, and grime you will attract. Oil + dust = a gummy gritty mess
@@The_Privateer normally I disassemble but these are non serviceable and have a large o-ring on the anvil. Only way to get oil in is through the selector. Believe me I took a hammer and pry bars to this thing and it’s not budging. 👍🏻
Spinning the anvil while submerged will help draw in the fluid. But, those Craftsman ratchets are completely sealed by o-rings, so I doubt much, if any fluid will seep in. The Craftsman are also non serviceable, so there's no way to take them apart for cleaning and re-lubing, which is something I always do to new ratchets. Many manufacturers generally don't get all the tiny debris out before assembly. You won't find any more of the Craftsman after the current stock has been sold. They discontinued that line. I'm waiting on the gen2 Icons to hit the stores after the first of the year.
I soaked mine for a full week to make sure it got in there really good beacuse that ratchet is sealed up like a maximum security prison.😮 I then ran it in an impact driver for several minutes in both directions. It cleaned up the back drag beautifully!! They are very smooth now. I love them!! The design of yhe flex portion and yoke is superior to the classic design. Thats why snap on uses this design on their extra long 3/8 ratchet. For some reason, this process only works on the longer ratchets. I tried to do it on the stubby ratchets and it didn't work worth a shit. You're right about running it in a drill ir impact though. It does create micro metal shavings, but it doesn't seem to affect the functionality. It just mixes with the oil and creates a thicker oil lol. Its not ideal obviously, but Craftsman should have made these servicable. It was so stupid to completely seal these up. Like why?? If they would have made these serviceable, I think they would have been some of the best ratchets out there. These things are built for torque baby. They are tanks!! That yoke and set screw is next level.
@@victorhoyt4352 I really appreciate this comment as we are much on the same page. So much was done right but lack of serviceability and lube really make them appear less desirable. 👍🏻
I get that but these came in heavily discounted sets that were professional grade. These also appear to be just as well constructed and possibly stronger than most of their competitors.
That 1/2 quart of mobil 1 cost as much as that craftsman ratchet. You can eliminate back drag by buying a snapon dual 80 or ko-ken ratchet in the first place. I to fell for the craftsman v sale at lowes though, so I to, am a fool for a good deal
@@Leeroy2586 I’m not worried about the oil. It’s cheap and now I can leave it sealed on my shelf for all my future ratchet needs. I have much smoother ratchets but I had a feeling these were better than they appeared. So far I’m correct. 👍🏻
I can't recall the last time I've seen a RUclips video where someone wanted to like an item sooooooo much that they ignore all rational measurements in favor of their bias. You've done this for at least two videos in reference to this ratchet. That being said, if you wanted to maximize the procedure that you tried to execute in this video, you might try actually warming the oil to make it more viscous. Maybe microwaving it for 20 seconds or so. Another way to possibly maximize it a little better is to try to use a syringe to inject lubricant at the switch point as other videos have shown that is the only non-gasketed entry point / way to get lubrication into this particular ratchet. In general though, you need to check yourself and your biases in reference to these ratchets as they are doing neither you, or your viewer any good.
@@jotu173 I get your point and I can just let them be or throw them away by some peoples standard. However they showed promise. Why not give them a shot as I now have quite a few. I like everything else about them. Why not take a few steps and easily add oil that was clearly neglected from the factory. Many others bought these sets and aren’t excited with the backdrag. So why not find a solution? PS these aren’t my favorites either.
@@ThingsMen You should make a UNBIASED video about this and try employing a syringe for lube injection as the switch point. To my knowledge, no one has made a video like that yet. FYI, you can buy syringes at nearly any pharmacy (ask pharmacist). They'r cheap and do not need a prescription. I think they keep them for diabetics.
@@alcerz984 fair point. I did press it afterwards a lot to clean it up and no difference. Oil did make it in though through the bottom at the anvil. It’s just a bad ratchet.
Hello again, Things Men Thank you for another Great Video 👍 I think you may be following me. I was just doing the same thing, lubricating my ratchets. I still have my Roto Head Ratchets to due. Again thank you
Hi George. Not sure. Just had guys comment in my last videos and decided to look into it. Always appreciate everyone’s feedback as it leads to content we all can utilize. 👍🏻
This is my final break in step running submerged in fluid again for 10 minutes with your drill.Chuck wipe them off and you are golden ruclips.net/user/shortsQVkFV-rUj4I?si=3gY_81YTKMrK6C_U
I saw a few comments to use ATF to loosen a seized antique tool and I can wrap my head around that. I would then clean the shit out of it and then use some super lube synthetic silicone grease and/or silicone oil to load up the different zones (or a PTFE product). I cannot however get onboard with buying some chinesium garbage drivers and then chuck them into a vat of motor oil and then make me listen to those very shitty “looks good from my house” never should have been produced dollar store drivers! If I did buy these POS drivers (the black and decker/stanley/ dewalt version of your dad’s craftsman tools I would also use synthetic super lube products. Just listening to these drivers is like scratching nails on a chalkboard!! I’m sorry but I wouldn’t buy any of their new crap. I personally own craftsman oldschool open end SAE & MM speed wrench sets and I just inherited my dads 300+ craftsman toolbox set with full 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2” sockets and wrenches that I bought him as a gift back in 2007. That set was part of their OG good quality days even though Sears was falling apart at the seams. My goodness! I thought I was going to learn something and instead I was repulsed by this one! 😅 if it makes anyone feel better I could get onboard with using some motor oil to marinate your hand tools after cleaning them so they don’t rust in storage. Most tool owners don’t take care of what they got is what I notice more than anything, it makes me sick seeing such laziness. They don’t even try, it’s fucking sad
Let the head soak in automatic transmission fluid it works great. I collect antique ratchets and for the ones that I find that are seized from being neglected and super rusty I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf. The acetone will forge a path and eat through the rust and the atf creeps through after to lubricate. Being that these ratchets are new , I’d just use the atf.
I thought about atf as well but engine oil won out. Mostly for the additives and thicker viscosity which will allow it to stay in the head longer without leaking out.
ATF is too low viscosity for these. It will work, however these ratchets like some lightweight oil of a bit higher than the ISO ~30 of ATF up to ISO 68 better.
ATF is not a very good lube, automatic transmissions have clutches that need to find traction, hence ATF is not a super slippery lubricant.
You need to work out how to unseal the seal in the sealed head ratchets. Once u work that out you can operate on them like a surgeon to reduce backdrag.
I second transmission fluid. I have some Kobalt ratchets that had some not so good back drag. I took mine apart and dropped a few drops of transmission fluid on the gears and put it back together. They are much better now. I also have a cheap Task Force ratchet I tried that with and it didn’t work, it still sucks.
Oil won't work nearly as well as Transmission fluid..
Transmission fluid will creep where motor oil cannot
@@boosted2.4_sky true but it also has a “runnier” viscosity to won’t help it stay long term in the ratchet. It also doesn’t have all the additives that oil has either. 👍🏻
@ThingsMen runner is better👍
That ratchet has a bunch of rubber in it and the ATF will make the seals swell. ATF is good for some tools, but not a one size fits all.
Bar and chin oil works for me
Chin oil?
Great video. Glad to see you came up with a solution to fix these a bit. I know a lot of people purchased these on discount and they are having troubles with them. An old timer I knew swore by soaking his ratchets in Transmission Fluid over night about once a month. I always did the same with non-rebuildables. It always seemed to help.
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench thanks. Yes it’s a noticeable improvement and working the ratchets going forward will only make it better. 👍🏻
A lot of people dont realize a lot of ratchets do not come lubed from factory
@@alcerz984 yes it’s a shame really. Especially when they are supposed pro grade tools.
I had read somewhere that it is due to EPA laws regarding banned imported substances. Not sure if it's true or not. The explanation got pretty knee deep in technical jumbled language, but basically it's because nothing prevents the lube from migrating off of the ratchet into the environment. Pretty ridiculous if you ask me. I miss the good old days.
I have over 60 ratchets and I agree. It really is hit or miss on if they are greased from the factory or not. Sometimes you can get 2 of the same branded ratchets and one has lube and the other doesn't. I have a few of these V series ratchets and the backdrag is the worst lol.
@ not sure as plenty of ratchets from overseas are already lubed. Also the craftsman is mostly sealed with an oring at the anvil.
@@ThingsMen I was thinking about drilling a hole in one and tapping it for a plug. So I can add oil or grease
Can you do this to electric ratcheting wrenches?
@@itsmistersmoke depends on which ones but they typically require a different oil or even grease.
Maybe if someone bought these for me as a gift or I was just starting out and happened to catch these Craftsman v series while they were on closeout I would buy them. For anyone else with a decent selection of ratchets or can buy something better I would just do that. I can't really see any reason to bother with these.
Just my thoughts. This video will help the guys that bought them though. Thanks for the helpful content.
Yes this is more for the guys who realized how bad the backdrag is out of the box. Everything else about the ratchets is actually quite good. 👍🏻
5:00 you are absolutely right on the no need for any power tools.
Thanks. Even if it ruffles some feathers. 🪶
As you mentioned once you get some use on the ratchet it does tend to loosen up. I do have older USA Craftsman and Snap On ratchets and the V Series is a good in between at the discount I picked them up at. At full retail I probably would not buy them but otherwise I am happy with them.
I would have to agree as well. 👍🏻
I just put mine on a drill for a few seconds in Both directions. Works great now
@@paul9912 add oil as well?
No oil.
I first tried to add oil throuh the direction lever and put them on the top of the washing machine while doing laundry to let the vibration agitate the oil in which seemed to help a little bit.
What worked best was pretty much the same thing as your drill but instead used an impact wrench and hex bit socket on the ratchet and corresponding size socket on the impact wrench. This made them very smooth and better than my gear wrench 90t.
@ yea a lot of guys have done the same. I may try it next.
@@J926Tgreat idea, I have a load in the washing machine now. I’ll put my oiled ratchet on top once the wife climbs down.
Many new ratchets, regardless of the manufacturer, will require a period of breaking in. Some more than others. In a shop environment where a ratchet is used daily the process will be quicker. Craftsman ratchets had always been able to be disassembled for cleaning and lubrication. Stanley Black & Decker patterned these ratchets after the Mac and Proto design. Why they didn't make the V Series ratchets serviceable like their Mac and Proto cousins is a mystery. Jeff @ Jeff's Garage Adventures gave some V Series 3/8 flex head ratchets to some local shops in his area for evaluation. The shops reported that the ratchets freed up after constant daily use and they felt that the V Series was a decent ratchet. At full retail price I can see where one would expect a relatively smooth mechanism out of the box. With the recent deep discounts on the V Series it isn't a lot of trouble to give them a soak in some sort of low viscosity oil. It would be interesting to get a handful of ratchets, take a reading of back drag with a measuring device, soak each one in a different oil and take a second reading.
@@mlieser1230 I’m confident they will free up as they get used some more. I may do a video on the calculated differences in backdrag if it’s something people are interested in. 👍🏻
Shout out to Jeff's garage 🎉🎉🎉🎉😅
I used plastic shims to force open the sector switch just a little bit and socked it in 3in1 oil and boy oh boy they turned butter smooth.
@@GLI_1701 that’s a slick idea. 💡 pun intended. 😉
Do you believe the oil can affect any grease heavier than motor oil that is on the gear/pall? I imagine worst case scenario, they could sit in oil every few months if that is your primary method of lubrication. Also, how would this affect a sealed head system like the Gearwrench? Good video.
Yes it will mix and dilute the grease. If the head is sealed the oil will stay in longer. Really depends on your application but you might only need to do this once a year or so.
Good information. I've been using the same USA made ratchets since the 1970s. Once a year from day one I soak the heads in a jar of ATF and I've never had a problem with them. They work as well now as they did when new.
@@gmpny3945 that’s a great idea to do regularly. 👍🏻
Nice. You can just spray some WD-40 specialist silicone lube under selector switch. That will fully lubricate internals. The problem is that the pawl springs are too stiff. The right amount of spring tension will prevent skipping but still have low backdrag.
That would also be an improvement however I would like to see a heavier oil used. Spring tension is important too but there is no adjustment with this ratchet.
@ThingsMen for the win! Thanks for taking the time to share this. It turns the only downsides with these V-series tools into a positive.
FYI, my local Lowe’s has the 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2” kits back in stock and they reduced the price down to $35 instead of $40 now.
You’re welcome. I know a lot of us jumped on these ratchets and sets. It’s unfortunate they didn’t lube or make these serviceable but the ratchets are good quality. 👍🏻
2 thoughts for what could be better results. Use a glass jar with 0-50 on a hot plate, that will thin the oil while it gets in, and once cool it will thicken up.
If you really want to ensure full oil fill, pulling a vacuum on the oil jar should suck all the air out of the ratchet snd completely fill it.
@@Dan-wt7jx great points. I was planning on #2 if this didn’t work but realized most wouldn’t be able to easily replicate the process. Also that method would fully fill the ratchet with oil which would require much of it to drain back out. We just need a fraction of that in the head to do its job well. Thanks again. 👍🏻
@ThingsMen that's what has kept me from trying it yet myself. I was hoping you would do it first!
@@Dan-wt7jx yea just submerge in oil for a day or two and run it. Works great. 👍🏻
Nice, I was actually planning on doing this today to my V-series ratchets. I have 6 of them.
@@mrrobotto3321 you really should. Well worth it. 👍🏻
@ThingsMen doing now. A few of them had noticable/acceptable changes after an hour of soaking. I'm going to leave the troublesome ones in oil overnight. Let's see what happens.
@ good idea. Don’t forget to exercise them a couple times while they soak.
I think.
It's a fine ratchet , and with the deep discounts at lowe's , i got what I wanted , in the early 80s, when I worked in a shop, we soaked our ratchet heads in ATF overnight , it always helped , great job thank you Merry christmas
@@dsanford12 correct it’s a fine 96 tooth ratchet. Yes atf works as well. 👍🏻
To reduce clonkyness. Open it up and give it some quality grease.
@@andreasjonsson8075 non-serviceable ratchet. No such thing.
Great video I'm curious as to why you used 5 W 30 instead of transmission fluid, like most people do. Not saying it's wrong. I personally use Lucas air gun oil. Thanks for all you do it's much appreciated. And Merry Christmas. Thanks Man
@@michaellindsay8934 it was a close call but I like the slightly higher viscosity and added wear ingredients found in motor oil. It also does a better job clinging to metal parts. I want the oil to stay in and not seep out. 👍🏻
ATF works OK for these, but is too high of a viscosity, they do a bit better with a lightweight oil with ISO viscosity of up to the 60s. The ATF has ISO viscosity of only around 30 and might cause them to sound a bit crackly and feel like they are skipping. Try something a bit thicker, ISO 68 lightweight oil seems to work much better.
My advice would be to submerge (and maybe disassemble) the ratchet head in brake cleaner to wash out all the cheap gummy crap grease they put in the head from the factory. Maybe even consider an ultrasonic cleaner. And then *limited* application of a small amount of high quality, thin low viscosity oil.
Remember, the more oil you apply, the more dirt, dust, and grime you will attract. Oil + dust = a gummy gritty mess
@@The_Privateer normally I disassemble but these are non serviceable and have a large o-ring on the anvil. Only way to get oil in is through the selector. Believe me I took a hammer and pry bars to this thing and it’s not budging. 👍🏻
I never worried about back drag
@@waltertur9731 and that’s ok. Everyone’s requirements are different.
Spinning the anvil while submerged will help draw in the fluid. But, those Craftsman ratchets are completely sealed by o-rings, so I doubt much, if any fluid will seep in. The Craftsman are also non serviceable, so there's no way to take them apart for cleaning and re-lubing, which is something I always do to new ratchets. Many manufacturers generally don't get all the tiny debris out before assembly. You won't find any more of the Craftsman after the current stock has been sold. They discontinued that line. I'm waiting on the gen2 Icons to hit the stores after the first of the year.
@@shadow7796 the selector is not sealed so that is the only way in. This method actually worked out well. 👍🏻
ATF is very slippery, even if the ratchets are “sealed”, the atf will creep in.
I soaked mine for a full week to make sure it got in there really good beacuse that ratchet is sealed up like a maximum security prison.😮 I then ran it in an impact driver for several minutes in both directions. It cleaned up the back drag beautifully!! They are very smooth now. I love them!! The design of yhe flex portion and yoke is superior to the classic design. Thats why snap on uses this design on their extra long 3/8 ratchet. For some reason, this process only works on the longer ratchets. I tried to do it on the stubby ratchets and it didn't work worth a shit. You're right about running it in a drill ir impact though. It does create micro metal shavings, but it doesn't seem to affect the functionality. It just mixes with the oil and creates a thicker oil lol. Its not ideal obviously, but Craftsman should have made these servicable. It was so stupid to completely seal these up. Like why?? If they would have made these serviceable, I think they would have been some of the best ratchets out there. These things are built for torque baby. They are tanks!! That yoke and set screw is next level.
@@victorhoyt4352 I really appreciate this comment as we are much on the same page. So much was done right but lack of serviceability and lube really make them appear less desirable. 👍🏻
A non serviceable sealed head ratchet is a no go for me. I'd rather have Gearwrench or Tone
I get that but these came in heavily discounted sets that were professional grade. These also appear to be just as well constructed and possibly stronger than most of their competitors.
That 1/2 quart of mobil 1 cost as much as that craftsman ratchet. You can eliminate back drag by buying a snapon dual 80 or ko-ken ratchet in the first place. I to fell for the craftsman v sale at lowes though, so I to, am a fool for a good deal
@@Leeroy2586 I’m not worried about the oil. It’s cheap and now I can leave it sealed on my shelf for all my future ratchet needs. I have much smoother ratchets but I had a feeling these were better than they appeared. So far I’m correct. 👍🏻
That’s my thought too, just buy a used snap on or tool truck ratchet at a discount and you should be happy.
I can't recall the last time I've seen a RUclips video where someone wanted to like an item sooooooo much that they ignore all rational measurements in favor of their bias. You've done this for at least two videos in reference to this ratchet. That being said, if you wanted to maximize the procedure that you tried to execute in this video, you might try actually warming the oil to make it more viscous. Maybe microwaving it for 20 seconds or so. Another way to possibly maximize it a little better is to try to use a syringe to inject lubricant at the switch point as other videos have shown that is the only non-gasketed entry point / way to get lubrication into this particular ratchet. In general though, you need to check yourself and your biases in reference to these ratchets as they are doing neither you, or your viewer any good.
@@jotu173 I get your point and I can just let them be or throw them away by some peoples standard. However they showed promise. Why not give them a shot as I now have quite a few. I like everything else about them. Why not take a few steps and easily add oil that was clearly neglected from the factory. Many others bought these sets and aren’t excited with the backdrag. So why not find a solution? PS these aren’t my favorites either.
@@ThingsMen You should make a UNBIASED video about this and try employing a syringe for lube injection as the switch point. To my knowledge, no one has made a video like that yet. FYI, you can buy syringes at nearly any pharmacy (ask pharmacist). They'r cheap and do not need a prescription. I think they keep them for diabetics.
@ go back a couple videos. I did a precision oiler with good results. Soaking is still better though. Just a bit more cleaning.
And we got Step 1 down and now you gotta run those in a drill chuck for a while.Make a fall up video on that.Trust me you won't be disappointed
@@BIG_CHEVY_BOWSKIE_MIKE I may. Just don’t love the idea of slapping them in a drill to introduce velocity and wear that they weren’t intended to see.
I do the same ....with all my ratchets,and it's good
@@pauvrefrance9802 excellent. 👍🏻
ATF works very well.
@@SleepysAutomotive yes that appears to be a popular choice.
ATF worked well for me with my Kobalt ratchets. I have a cheap Task Force ratchet that sucks, ATF did nothing for it.
On that rotohead you might have to press that button on it so the oil can get in
@@alcerz984 fair point. I did press it afterwards a lot to clean it up and no difference. Oil did make it in though through the bottom at the anvil. It’s just a bad ratchet.
Oh ok thanks for sharing that
1 drop of duck oil...game over
Big difference
All these ratchets require is a dunk in ATF and use! Not bad ratchets by any stretch of the imagination.
@@GodsChosenOne134 I share the same sentiment. 👍🏻
Hello again, Things Men
Thank you for another Great Video 👍 I think you may be following me. I was just doing the same thing, lubricating my ratchets. I still have my Roto Head Ratchets to due. Again thank you
Hi George. Not sure. Just had guys comment in my last videos and decided to look into it. Always appreciate everyone’s feedback as it leads to content we all can utilize. 👍🏻
Those sound terrible 😂
@@jlsrr2577 right!
3 in 1 oil is a better idead
Thanks for the suggestion
This is my final break in step running submerged in fluid again for 10 minutes with your drill.Chuck wipe them off and you are golden ruclips.net/user/shortsQVkFV-rUj4I?si=3gY_81YTKMrK6C_U
@@BIG_CHEVY_BOWSKIE_MIKE now that seems like a reasonable speed. 👍🏻
vim and GW about the least I have ever found
@@mikethetoolman8776 try Koken Z. It’s the absolute best.
@@ThingsMen cost more than a snap-off though!!
@@mikethetoolman8776 shouldn’t. Buy through the right source and most are $40-60 on average. Including flex heads.
@@ThingsMen if you buy from overseas, they have no warranty here. have not seen that low anywhere ?
I saw a few comments to use ATF to loosen a seized antique tool and I can wrap my head around that. I would then clean the shit out of it and then use some super lube synthetic silicone grease and/or silicone oil to load up the different zones (or a PTFE product). I cannot however get onboard with buying some chinesium garbage drivers and then chuck them into a vat of motor oil and then make me listen to those very shitty “looks good from my house” never should have been produced dollar store drivers! If I did buy these POS drivers (the black and decker/stanley/ dewalt version of your dad’s craftsman tools I would also use synthetic super lube products. Just listening to these drivers is like scratching nails on a chalkboard!! I’m sorry but I wouldn’t buy any of their new crap. I personally own craftsman oldschool open end SAE & MM speed wrench sets and I just inherited my dads 300+ craftsman toolbox set with full 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2” sockets and wrenches that I bought him as a gift back in 2007. That set was part of their OG good quality days even though Sears was falling apart at the seams. My goodness! I thought I was going to learn something and instead I was repulsed by this one! 😅 if it makes anyone feel better I could get onboard with using some motor oil to marinate your hand tools after cleaning them so they don’t rust in storage. Most tool owners don’t take care of what they got is what I notice more than anything, it makes me sick seeing such laziness. They don’t even try, it’s fucking sad
Fortunately they are not Chinese made. Sorry you didn’t find the video educational.
ATF all ima say
@@Sup_Evox 👍🏻
No amount of oil will fix that shitty workpro ratchet lol
@@victorhoyt4352 China vs Taiwan manufactures. Big difference.
I went too fast and the third and final process.Don't do what I did ruclips.net/user/shortsCLitAcF91ps?si=lUtmPLb7Vph548nF
@@BIG_CHEVY_BOWSKIE_MIKE 😂