I’ve installed your bearing upgrade and the CR10 on my machine, and have already printed a few things. I have to say, the Kobra 3 prints really well! The around 15€ including shipping was definitely worth it. Thanks for the inspiration! I will also install the bearings on my Artillery X3 Plus, it can’t hurt. :)
i've had this issue on my ender 3 v2. till now i just compensated by adjusting the extrusion rate so the first layers aren't so smashed together. I thought the issue was just that, cura tends to add a slight increase in extrusion for the bottom layers to help adhesion but i never got around to changing the slicer settings. I don't print things with large enough first layers to really look into it so i had just relied on setting it to 95-97% extrusion after starting the print and they'd been turning out perfectly. Though i just ordered some thrust bearings to do this fix, some wobblex plates, some anti backlash nuts, linear rails upgrade kit, as well as the nebular input shaper and camera kit. so hopefully after all that i'll be getting even better prints 😆
I've ordered the bearings and i hope this will fix it. Ive had no end of layer squish and banding since i started printing with this troublesome machine
I have tried this mod with two thrust bearings, but won't these two bearings raise the T-screw lead too much above the aluminum frame (by 10mm)? How do you put the plastic cap back?
I had kind of the same problems. After disassembling the 2 rods i found out that in my case the Z-backlash modules were so tight i really had to put some force in it to just get the rods trough them. I replaced both modules for Cr10 anti backlash T8 modules and all my Z axis problems are gone..
This is because the motor is working at its performance limit due to its incorrect load. With mine, it is was enough to lift and support the filament tubes just a bit. The problem is the axial incorrect load, the motor could perform much greater radial load...
@@silentcorestudios In my example that was not the case as i disassebled the whole rod. I only had the rod with the baklash module in my hands and tried to turn the backlash/lead screw module. It was almost unmovable, only with excessive force. The second rod was simular. Those leadscrew/baklash modules were way too tight.. As i said, after replacing both i can put the axis up and down with easy if i turn the axis on the motor side.
Thank you! I had the same problem - the plastic parts were too tight on the thread, and I could barely move not good by hand. With the Cr10, it's much better now! I'm also going to do the bearing upgrade. Thanks for the help!
@@olehandwerk4692 were they black plastic POM nuts? seems they are manufactured to much tighter tolerances intentionally. Maybe it would have helped to take the lead screw and the nut, attach the rod into a hand drill, hold onto the nut, and take it up and down a couple dozens times to wear it in. since POM nuts are self lubricating as they wear down slightly they will get smoother. But general 3d printer z axis use would take a long time to wear them in since that axis barely moves at all.
Great video - thank you. Serious question, why wouldn't you just use a single sealed bearing instead of this setup??? Seems like the open bearing unit would gather a lot of dust
Before there was just a hole and the dirt fell directly into the stepper motor. This option consists of only 2 bearings, it is an extremely simple solution, there are certainly other approaches. I will test and use it this way for now.
Thanks for the video. Very clear and easy to follow. Any chance you could provide Amazon links to something that would work? It would make it easier for non-experts that do not understand German to source the parts. Even if not ordering from Amazon, we can use the link as a reference to source somewhere else. Many thanks!
Miniature axial ball bearings [F5-12M]-M-d1-12 [5x12x4 mm] For use in special conditions. The miniature axial bearing F5-12M-M-d1-12 is small and is suitable for mounting in limited space and on thin shafts. It absorbs loads from an axial direction and can be dismantled.
Bzgl. Montage der Kugellager: Zuerst den oberen Teil der Kupplung festmachen, dann das Gewicht auf die Lager drücken lassen und dann erst unten festschrauben?
Ja, den unteren Teil der Kupplung erst festziehen, wenn das Gewicht des Gantries über die Gewindestange voll darauf lastet und der obere Teil fest ist..
I've ordered the linked product twice. The bottom and bearing fit fine. But the 5mm one will only fit with force on my kobra 3. Can i just use the 5.2 mm and one bearing? Will this have any positive effect?
I also had the problem that the 5mm ring was difficult to fit... I carefully and gently sanded it with very fine sandpaper and used a oil, then it worked.
@@timhnr ich hab tatsächlich erst die CR 10 eingebaut, damit war es schon deutlich besser.. Mit den Originalen Plastikteilen konnte ich die Stange kaum mit Hand drehen.. Danach habe ich die kleinen Kugellager nachgerüstet.. und nun bin ich wirklich zufrieden.. :)
my z axis coupler wont move at all like that the only way I can move the z axis is with the touch screen. ( even if iI unlock the motors on the screen it doesn't move)
There is a simpler and much more efficient solution that it is small bearing that does not solve the problem on high prints. it is the brass ring that now comes the X gantry that allow the Z axis to go up and down. at the moment you will have nothing else more efficient.
Thank you for the clarification, I ordered one way bearings and will be doing this. My 1st layer is all over the place even with self leveling every print hoping this is my solution
@@silentcorestudios i use 3d Printer since "Mandel" Design releases on GitHub. Over so many years, No one use axial beerings to unload z-axis wight. I will give it a shot. Possible new Anycubic steppers are Cheap Like hell.
This is a very common design, not sure i´d call it a design flaw. All 3D-printers I've owned during the last 10 years have had the same type of Z-axis design with the gantry weight on the stepper motor axle. I haven't seen a single issue related to this.
Well, it might work to a point, but the gantry became quite heavy, these days.. Design wise, its not a correct layout, the thrust bearing IS missing and it would not be the first printer suffering from this issue: www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/qcwx4e/i_finally_figure_out_why_my_layers_were_uneven/?rdt=39114
I’ve installed your bearing upgrade and the CR10 on my machine, and have already printed a few things. I have to say, the Kobra 3 prints really well! The around 15€ including shipping was definitely worth it. Thanks for the inspiration! I will also install the bearings on my Artillery X3 Plus, it can’t hurt. :)
Hi, its explained in the description..
It's very cool that you took the time to make this video to help others. Thank you!
Game changer! Thanks for sharing!
Good Job!!! Thanks for posting this to help people understand how to fix their Z Axis.
Excellent work.
i've had this issue on my ender 3 v2. till now i just compensated by adjusting the extrusion rate so the first layers aren't so smashed together. I thought the issue was just that, cura tends to add a slight increase in extrusion for the bottom layers to help adhesion but i never got around to changing the slicer settings. I don't print things with large enough first layers to really look into it so i had just relied on setting it to 95-97% extrusion after starting the print and they'd been turning out perfectly.
Though i just ordered some thrust bearings to do this fix, some wobblex plates, some anti backlash nuts, linear rails upgrade kit, as well as the nebular input shaper and camera kit. so hopefully after all that i'll be getting even better prints 😆
What was rhe gauge you were using to measure the level on the gabtry?
I've ordered the bearings and i hope this will fix it. Ive had no end of layer squish and banding since i started printing with this troublesome machine
God job friend!
I have tried this mod with two thrust bearings, but won't these two bearings raise the T-screw lead too much above the aluminum frame (by 10mm)? How do you put the plastic cap back?
If you use the same bearing, the height should be perfect..
thanks
I had kind of the same problems. After disassembling the 2 rods i found out that in my case the Z-backlash modules were so tight i really had to put some force in it to just get the rods trough them. I replaced both modules for Cr10 anti backlash T8 modules and all my Z axis problems are gone..
This is because the motor is working at its performance limit due to its incorrect load. With mine, it is was enough to lift and support the filament tubes just a bit. The problem is the axial incorrect load, the motor could perform much greater radial load...
@@silentcorestudios In my example that was not the case as i disassebled the whole rod. I only had the rod with the baklash module in my hands and tried to turn the backlash/lead screw module. It was almost unmovable, only with excessive force. The second rod was simular. Those leadscrew/baklash modules were way too tight.. As i said, after replacing both i can put the axis up and down with easy if i turn the axis on the motor side.
Thank you! I had the same problem - the plastic parts were too tight on the thread, and I could barely move not good by hand. With the Cr10, it's much better now! I'm also going to do the bearing upgrade. Thanks for the help!
@@olehandwerk4692 were they black plastic POM nuts? seems they are manufactured to much tighter tolerances intentionally.
Maybe it would have helped to take the lead screw and the nut, attach the rod into a hand drill, hold onto the nut, and take it up and down a couple dozens times to wear it in. since POM nuts are self lubricating as they wear down slightly they will get smoother. But general 3d printer z axis use would take a long time to wear them in since that axis barely moves at all.
@@ge2719 Ah, they were gray, not black. Thanks for the information, though!
Great video - thank you. Serious question, why wouldn't you just use a single sealed bearing instead of this setup??? Seems like the open bearing unit would gather a lot of dust
Before there was just a hole and the dirt fell directly into the stepper motor. This option consists of only 2 bearings, it is an extremely simple solution, there are certainly other approaches. I will test and use it this way for now.
Where did you order that small bearings? Some link please
could you provide a link with same bearings from UK amazon or something like that? as I can't really find the same ones, when I search for them :(
Thanks for the video. Very clear and easy to follow. Any chance you could provide Amazon links to something that would work? It would make it easier for non-experts that do not understand German to source the parts. Even if not ordering from Amazon, we can use the link as a reference to source somewhere else. Many thanks!
Miniature axial ball bearings [F5-12M]-M-d1-12 [5x12x4 mm]
For use in special conditions. The miniature axial bearing F5-12M-M-d1-12 is small and is suitable for mounting in limited space and on thin shafts. It absorbs loads from an axial direction and can be dismantled.
The link with all the specs is in the video description..
@@silentcorestudios the link is off
@@SweetchuckIPAD2 Seems like the whole website is down for the moment..
If I order the thrust bearing form the link will I get everything I need? I want to make sure I order it correctly
Yes, just the 2 bearings.
Bzgl. Montage der Kugellager: Zuerst den oberen Teil der Kupplung festmachen, dann das Gewicht auf die Lager drücken lassen und dann erst unten festschrauben?
Ja, den unteren Teil der Kupplung erst festziehen, wenn das Gewicht des Gantries über die Gewindestange voll darauf lastet und der obere Teil fest ist..
I've ordered the linked product twice. The bottom and bearing fit fine. But the 5mm one will only fit with force on my kobra 3. Can i just use the 5.2 mm and one bearing? Will this have any positive effect?
I also had the problem that the 5mm ring was difficult to fit... I carefully and gently sanded it with very fine sandpaper and used a oil, then it worked.
@olehandwerk4692 hat es deine probleme gelöst mit z.b. first layer unregelmäßigkeiten oder hast du es als vorsichtsmaßnahme eingerichtet?
@@timhnr ich hab tatsächlich erst die CR 10 eingebaut, damit war es schon deutlich besser.. Mit den Originalen Plastikteilen konnte ich die Stange kaum mit Hand drehen.. Danach habe ich die kleinen Kugellager nachgerüstet.. und nun bin ich wirklich zufrieden.. :)
Why they (Anacubic) dont use 2 motors for Z axis? Motor is not so expensive ...
Simpliefy Design. Dual Z-Axis need different Startup Routine to Balance the gentry.
@NetrunnerAT aaa, ok
my z axis coupler wont move at all like that the only way I can move the z axis is with the touch screen. ( even if iI unlock the motors on the screen it doesn't move)
There is a simpler and much more efficient solution that it is small bearing that does not solve the problem on high prints. it is the brass ring that now comes the X gantry that allow the Z axis to go up and down. at the moment you will have nothing else more efficient.
Welcher Messingring genau?
Why 2 sets of bearings ?
Because of the needed hight, its better than using washers or other parts..
Thank you for the clarification, I ordered one way bearings and will be doing this. My 1st layer is all over the place even with self leveling every print hoping this is my solution
Did you think it solves the problem with the first layer?
Not sure, but the original design is not right, so its good to do the upgrade anyway..
@@silentcorestudios i use 3d Printer since "Mandel" Design releases on GitHub. Over so many years, No one use axial beerings to unload z-axis wight. I will give it a shot. Possible new Anycubic steppers are Cheap Like hell.
This is a very common design, not sure i´d call it a design flaw. All 3D-printers I've owned during the last 10 years have had the same type of Z-axis design with the gantry weight on the stepper motor axle. I haven't seen a single issue related to this.
Well, it might work to a point, but the gantry became quite heavy, these days.. Design wise, its not a correct layout, the thrust bearing IS missing and it would not be the first printer suffering from this issue:
www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/qcwx4e/i_finally_figure_out_why_my_layers_were_uneven/?rdt=39114
Könntest du das Video auch noch mal in Deutsch machen?
Hey, denke nicht, gibt ja kaum Infos.. Hast du Fragen?
@
Ich möchte halt alles eindeutig verstehen