As a young millright in the 70s we had a operator who would blow up the gearbox when he didn't want to run it.We had lots of spare parts.They had smaller tables and would remove them for large pieces. Very powerful machine and capable of drilling 4inch holes with no effort. Thanks for sharing and saving it.
I poked many a hole with a Cincinatti Bikford and Carlton radial arm drill while working at GM (Terex division) in Hudson, Ohio back in the 1970's. Both great machines. Real work horses.
@@bcbloc02 I love your channel and the way you think.......wish I lived close so I could stop by and meet you one day, Cheers from Florida, Paul......I sure loved running the Radial Drill back when I worked in a machine/fabrication shop......our stuff was pretty much 50 to 100 years old, no CNC or digital read outs.......
@@1nvisible1 nope. sometimes it does seem like a 'contest.' The kind I sometimes heard on the elementary bus route, years ago. ironically the biggest 'braggers' were the skinniest/scrawniest in the bunch. just one of those situation where it was better to pretend you didn't hear something, as long as it didn't continue.
Love these drills.... I got an old Cincinnati-Bickford Super Service Radial at work, installed wherever it was back in 1929 but we got it now. Dam thing cost $5200 back then too. Monster of a press, we use it to drill 1.5" holes through hardened steel rings used for giant shredders, each ring weighs around 500lb atleast, and maybe 4" thick, just a single punch, with a small marking/pilot hole.
Just goes to show, that a badly damaged machine isn't just scrap metal. Even after that disastrous day for you, so much has been learnt by us, by you showing your misfortune and how you coped with it. Thanks
Couple days ago, I was going thru an ammo box full of M42 Cobalt drills that I bought from the famed Reliable tools on Ebay. I pulled out a few of the larger drills and right away recognized the spiro point. I only new that because of watching your video about the cincinnatti spiro point drill grinder. Thanks Brian.
What a totally awesome piece of kit you have there Brian, I can see why you wanted such a powerful machine. Clearly, it has lots in reserve, even with the reduced power at the moment. This drill and you skills are a formidable force. Many thanks for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe.
We had an 8ft Carlton of same vintage at work. Recently was replaced by an even larger newer RAD. I miss the clutch action for the spindle drive of the Carlton though. The new drill is a push button setup, not as sensitive.
How long to get that done in my shop you ask..... 10 hours and 47 minutes is my best guess . 5 hours drive time ( good traffic ) to this ole barn shop, 10 minutes to unload and set up on drill table, 12 minutes playing with Baily, 15 minutes to drill, 10 minutes to load back on truck, 5 hours return trip. Getting to use that drill - - - - Priceless! Looks like you need some block and tackles on each wall to help maneuver the end of the arm around:) Thanks for the demo, Take Care
I’ve been playing catch up on your channel. I saw the video where this drill got dropped. I thought it was a goner at that point. Good to see you have it at work again. Even better that you didn’t get hurt in that incident . . . those are the kind of accidents that kill . . . I can’t image what would have happened if the drill hadn’t quite been clear of the side of the trailer when it went. And I will say the video of that accident doesn’t do justice to how big that drill is! It wasn’t till another video I watched that I realized what a monster it is. Take care! And thank you for posting these videos!
nice work Brian . that drill of yours is probably close to half the size of my workshop , for me to drill that plate including having to move it around would take the better half of a day for me to do in my little shop.
Brian could you please include a photo of your whole Carlton drill? I can't see more than half of it at anyone time, though watching the whole video. I was trying to compare yours with our own current and former drills, including: American, Carlton, Cinci-B, Fosdick, Kitchen & Wade, Asquith, Elliott, Kaukauna, Meuser, Ooya, Stanko, and another I cannot recall. We owned up to 8 ft arm drills, but my neighbor had a real whopper- a 13 ft arm MAS (Czech)! Cheers, Machineco, Montreal
that is an awesome drill. I've had chances to pickup smaller ones I guess I'm going to have to pick one up next time I see one. looks very stable. the fix is coming along nicely.
Thanks for the demo, what an awesome machine! Been with you since the beginning, we know that's just a small sampling of what that machine can do! I like that big Machinery!!!
You sold me. I'm converting to a radial arm drill and selling my mag drill. But I'm a little worried about the cable on my bridge crane! Seriously, it really is impressive to watch that big thing work. Thanks for all your videos. I never miss one.
No worries, just replace your cable now. lol Can't sell the mag drill though as you need both sonce they both have different advantages and disadvantages. :-)
When i sharpen a drill ,the only thing for sure is that the drill will get SHORTER sometimes it gets sharper ! I saw the tool grinder in the shop i worked in BANG a two inch drill into a grinder four times , he handed it back to the user who said " cuts like a new one ". Awed and jealous did not quite cover my reaction !
Great machine! Glad you're finally able to get some work out of it instead of work into it. I predict lots of videos including this drill! LOL Can't wait to see the horizontal boring mill, I'll buy a front row ticket for a big boring job.
As far as i know radial arm drilling machines are ideal for large drilling and deep drilling and long and wade parts but since Cnc has came about they becoming rare as it is cheaper and more accurate to interpolate the hole with an endmill but I have never seen a radial arm drill use U-drill or an indexable drill which are the fastest way of drilling large holes but main reason you don't see them on anything manual is the power requirement to run the tool at its required speeds and feeds. For me it feels like a very very large pedestal drill but the head moves not the table never used a radial drill but never seen a use for it since anything that requires that sort of power we just use the cnc to do it and if the hole is beyond the holder size we can always use a boring head but very very very rare we would need to do that
Like he's using it for, these machines are especially good for drilling (and reaming) large workpieces and large diameter holes that utilize drills with Morse Taper shanks, above and beyond a Jacobs Chuck...
...Yes indeed...it is kind of obvious... that these are way ... WAY larger like 3 inch diam. ++ MT #5 Drill shanks. Imagine trying to drive a drill bit through 3" diameter, in 4 inch thick plate with the 3 small lines of contact of the jaws of a Jacobs chuck!
I already knew what they could do, used a smaller one before the best way to use it is how you did drilling several holes in a part. GladYou have it all running Just need a BIG Power Supply Or a Big DC Welder! What Voltage/Amperage do you need to power that Bad Boy Up?
Great to see it make holes. Better hurry on that concrete, or you will miss the most miserably hot time of year to pour lol. Be nice to see how you set up the drill with the HBM. How were you going to set up the dc power you need for that? Is the HBM dc too?
I love your attitude and work ethic. I wish I could be more like you man. Why do you not have enough power for the drill? Didn't it come with rectifiers for the big D.C. Motor? If not I can show you how to build one. It's only about $300 for all the parts if for example you wanted 650 volts at 150 amps of D.C. Power. It would be much cheaper if you didn't need that much power.
bcbloc02 Hi Brian. That would be an easy power supply for you to build. If you can tell me about the power coming into your shop I would be happy to design one for you and spec the parts and safety circuit. Can you please tell me: 1) What voltage do you have coming into your shop from the power company? It could be 110, 220, 240, 360, 440, or 460. Those might not be the exact voltages, but you should have something close to those numbers. 2) How many phases does the power company provide you with? Single phase, or 3 phase? 3) How many amps is the service? The total cost should be around $100 if you build it from parts and make your own case. The case would be a cake walk for you given your fab talents.
The original power supply was a motor generator set that was running all the DC for the whole factory. My power supply is 240V single phase at 400 amps coming into my shop. I also will eventually have my phase converter in there too that will make my 3 phase for my other machines. The drill is 230VDC and about 80 amps so something capable of 100amps would probably be good.
bcbloc02 Okay Brian we should be able to get you going in no time. Just a few more questions: 1) Does the machine require just 250V DC to operate, or are there other voltages for different motors also required? 2) Also, could you please measure the resistance from both the positive and negative 250V power inputs and the body of the machine? It should ideally be 0 Ohms to 1 Mega Ohm. Whatever that value is, please let me know. 3) How are you powering the drill right now? Welder? What voltage was it running at for this video?
Fascinating-do you have a video of the repair to the Carlton? No matter how big the shop is, it fills itself to take up all available space. Thank you for sharing your great projects. 👍🛠🇦🇺🔭
"How long do you think it would take to drill ten 3/4D x 1L holes over 5square feet of area in your shop?" In the shop I work at it would take in the range of 1 minuet. This is to drill and reposition for the next hole only. My time estimate is based on using a CNC HMC with 1,000 psi thru spindle coolant and a ceramic coated solid carbide coolant thru drill bit. 2,000 RPM @ .014 "/rev = 28"/Min 1"(Hole) + .1"(feed prior to material) + .1"(feed below hole bottom) = 1.2" (1.2" / 28" ) * 60 = 2.57 Seconds to drill 1 hole 1.5 * 2.57 = 3.85 Seconds per hole (This is an approximation to include retracting to the clearance plane and the effects of acceleration) (5 SqFt)^.5 = 2.236' 2.236' * 12 = 26.83" (26.83" / 2400"/Min (Rapid traverse rate) ) * 60 = .67 S .67S * 3 = 2S 3.85 + 2 = 5.85 5.85 * 10 = 58.5 Seconds That said I would not expect to be able to get the machine programed and set up in 14 minutes. So for a couple parts you would be much faster with your radial arm drill.
The swivel lock and unlock is by power but you have to rotate it by hand, all the other axis are powered. When the lock unlock is working correctly it moves extremely easy as the whole thing is mounted on a giant roller bearing.
It will raise and lower.Also I believe it can be set to cut threads.When I worked at a shipyard they had one that size and it got more use than any other machine. They had a huge boring head for it and it bored many holes for sheaves,etc.
I see blue chips mixed in with the bigger silver chips. Wondering if those were made at the start of the cut before there was a thick enough chip to carry away the cutting heat? Your bit must be really good quality to not get boogered up by making those blue chips. When I see blue while using HSS, generally bad things happen :( That's got to be a great feeling to make some chips doing real work with a tool you fixed. Keep up the great work, AND letting us see you do it!
It would literally take me a week to do that. Between the aggravation of drilling the holes with improper drills and breaking bits. Glad you stopped the mag drill comments before they started. Sorry for the dumb question but can you put Jacobs chucks in there and what's the smallest bit it could use practically? Great video!
I doubt I would ever run anything smaller then 1/16" in it. I have the 1/4-20 rule in my shop so that keeps me from getting too small. It is simply a Morse taper spindle so you can put drills, drill chucks, end mills, boring heads or whatever you want to turn in it using the correct adapters.
Brian, how you doing for proper hold down clamps and hardware? if you don't already have some, get some of the Bessy Right-Height style of clamps, they work great for jobs like that. I also have a couple of the ones that have the screw you tighten down onto work pieces, kind of like a c-clamp. A dedicated stud and hardware set just for the drill would be nice to have.
I am going to have to get a dedicated hold down kit for the drill anyway as it has smaller t-slot hardware than my other machines. I definitely need to keep a look out for some of those right height clamps too since I think they would be perfect for jobs like this and not having to fool with the extra stand block for the clamp saves time.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was stupid lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Ronin Lennox Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Wow that is an incredible machine. How did you assemble that monster? did you ut it together and build the building around it? Or did you assemble it piece by piece?
Very impressive drilling operations. I'm amazed how easily you were able to swing that arm around. Is your power limitations due to that your still using the welder to power that DC motor? What is the actual power requirements for that machine?
Thanks for that clarification, I was a little worried about you swinging it without it bolted down. They'll flop over real easy. Using the crane hook in a lifting eye at the top of the column is another good way to keep it from tipping far if it gets away from you.
I tried it out and it can go full 90deg to the base and with the drill head extended to the end of the arm + me hanging my 200lbs off the end of it and it was still stable. I of course had the arm safetied with the crane just in case but it didn't even give a hint of instability. I think with the massive base + large heavy column it is more stable than a lot of the smaller drills+ the big DC motor and plate of steel on the motor mount I welded back on counterbalances it a fair bit too.
Brian, Great demonstration! When you swing the arm from left to right is there a clamp that is engaged to keep it in place or do you just rely on the mass of the machine? One suggestion. Please move the hoist chain out of the video frame. All the best! Eric
Yes there is supposed to be an electric activated hydraulic clamp for the swing. With the low voltage it won't operate the coils so it isn't working so I am using it with it partially locked so I can still move it but it stays on its own.
7.5 minutes per hole with a mag drill? i guess that would depend on the power of the drill, but 3/4 is a size you can get annular cutters in iirc, those are a lot faster than trying to get a twist drill to make chips of all that steel.
So I just watched Adam's new video on his drill press, and here I am watching this one wondering where you get a normal size drill press and a two-foot tall person to talk about it. o.O
I have annular cutters for my mag drill. The standard bit in the radial will cut the hole faster than the annular will in my mag. Big advantage for me is the drill is easy to resharpen an annular cutter is not. Also can't use annular cutters on non thru holes. They both have their advantages and disadvantages.
Diodes are dirt cheap, one o these, www.ebay.com/p/100-Amp-1000v-Positive-Cathode-Case-Stud-Mount-Diode-Rectifier-Power-Supply-100a/1154171713?iid=121863705112 or a couple in parallel on a chunk of aluminium would be fine.
Good to see that badboy in action Brian. Does the head/spindle articulate at all? So no need to tram it to the table? I would be curious to see how the speed of that would compare to a mag drill.
That is why I intend to combine its location with the HBM so I can lock the drill in one location and use the DRO on the HBM table to position the parts for high accuracy hole drilling when it is needed.
As a young millright in the 70s we had a operator who would blow up the gearbox when he didn't want to run it.We had lots of spare parts.They had smaller tables and would remove them for large pieces. Very powerful machine and capable of drilling 4inch holes with no effort. Thanks for sharing and saving it.
Holy smokes! I wonder how on earth you could fry the gearbox on something so beefy? Must have been changing speeds under load? Ouch!!!
I poked many a hole with a Cincinatti Bikford and Carlton radial arm drill while working at GM (Terex division) in Hudson, Ohio back in the 1970's. Both great machines. Real work horses.
I wonder if you were part of building my two Terex machines , a72-72 loader and a 82-40 dozer?
Both excellent machines
I'm impressed you persevered and turned a bad situation into a good one,,,many would have given up,,,but a good man never gives up
I like the results it gave you. A nice nudge in the ribs for those that thought the drill would never work again.
The doubters don't watch my channel so they will never know. :-)
@@bcbloc02 I love your channel and the way you think.......wish I lived close so I could stop by and meet you one day, Cheers from Florida, Paul......I sure loved running the Radial Drill back when I worked in a machine/fabrication shop......our stuff was pretty much 50 to 100 years old, no CNC or digital read outs.......
*Not a lot of "mine's bigger" comments on this video. :-}*
@@1nvisible1 nope. sometimes it does seem like a 'contest.' The kind I sometimes heard on the elementary bus route, years ago. ironically the biggest 'braggers' were the skinniest/scrawniest in the bunch.
just one of those situation where it was better to pretend you didn't hear something, as long as it didn't continue.
So whimsical yet so graceful. I want one or two of these now.
Love these drills.... I got an old Cincinnati-Bickford Super Service Radial at work, installed wherever it was back in 1929 but we got it now. Dam thing cost $5200 back then too. Monster of a press, we use it to drill 1.5" holes through hardened steel rings used for giant shredders, each ring weighs around 500lb atleast, and maybe 4" thick, just a single punch, with a small marking/pilot hole.
Just goes to show, that a badly damaged machine isn't just scrap metal. Even after that disastrous day for you, so much has been learnt by us, by you showing your misfortune and how you coped with it. Thanks
Couple days ago, I was going thru an ammo box full of M42 Cobalt drills that I bought from the famed Reliable tools on Ebay. I pulled out a few of the larger drills and right away recognized the spiro point. I only new that because of watching your video about the cincinnatti spiro point drill grinder. Thanks Brian.
Glad I could contribute to your machine tool education. :-)
Great to see the radial arm drill actually doing some work after its little trip. regards from the UK
Now that's what I call a drill.
Nice to see it working again for you Brian.
Really like your videos.
What a totally awesome piece of kit you have there Brian, I can see why you wanted such a powerful machine. Clearly, it has lots in reserve, even with the reduced power at the moment. This drill and you skills are a formidable force. Many thanks for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe.
The guy that designed that drill is one smart cat. What a machine. It drilled through that mild steel like butter.
A good drill bit helps too!
Congratulations again on the fantastic repair! That thing is a beast.
We had an 8ft Carlton of same vintage at work. Recently was replaced by an even larger newer RAD. I miss the clutch action for the spindle drive of the Carlton though. The new drill is a push button setup, not as sensitive.
I also prefer the manual clutch feel on the G&L over pendant control.
... because it's awesome! I didn't realize how much the head can move. That is a sweet machine
Happy memory’s as an apprentice using radial arm drill holes up to two inch.
Great to see a result! Super quick turnaround on the repair too!
I was thinking the same thing, besides his job and farming to do. I was surprised.
Great job Brian , So glad you could bring that drill back from the crash ! Thumbs up.
How long to get that done in my shop you ask..... 10 hours and 47 minutes is my best guess . 5 hours drive time ( good traffic ) to this ole barn shop, 10 minutes to unload and set up on drill table, 12 minutes playing with Baily, 15 minutes to drill, 10 minutes to load back on truck, 5 hours return trip. Getting to use that drill - - - - Priceless! Looks like you need some block and tackles on each wall to help maneuver the end of the arm around:) Thanks for the demo, Take Care
Pete Ferguson I
I’ve been playing catch up on your channel. I saw the video where this drill got dropped. I thought it was a goner at that point. Good to see you have it at work again. Even better that you didn’t get hurt in that incident . . . those are the kind of accidents that kill . . . I can’t image what would have happened if the drill hadn’t quite been clear of the side of the trailer when it went. And I will say the video of that accident doesn’t do justice to how big that drill is! It wasn’t till another video I watched that I realized what a monster it is. Take care! And thank you for posting these videos!
nice work Brian . that drill of yours is probably close to half the size of my workshop , for me to drill that plate including having to move it around would take the better half of a day for me to do in my little shop.
Brian could you please include a photo of your whole Carlton drill? I can't see more than half of it at anyone time, though watching the whole video.
I was trying to compare yours with our own current and former drills, including: American, Carlton, Cinci-B, Fosdick, Kitchen & Wade, Asquith, Elliott, Kaukauna, Meuser, Ooya, Stanko, and another I cannot recall. We owned up to 8 ft arm drills, but my neighbor had a real whopper- a 13 ft arm MAS (Czech)! Cheers, Machineco, Montreal
Mine is a 7ft arm with a 19” column so I guess it would be considered midsized.
that is an awesome drill. I've had chances to pickup smaller ones I guess I'm going to have to pick one up next time I see one. looks very stable. the fix is coming along nicely.
Amazing how easy it pivots for a massive unit
Thanks for the demo, what an awesome machine! Been with you since the beginning, we know that's just a small sampling of what that machine can do! I like that big Machinery!!!
It fits my sized work. There is stuff much larger too!!
great to see it drilling holes, made easy work of that inch plate. great repair Brian
Big Blue!!! What a drill press Brian WOW...
Came here from Abom's Carlton - can't believe I didn't sub, when you gave him the tour a few months back...
Better late than never! Glad to have ya! :-)
Nice. I'm sure you're chompin' on the bit to get it all wired up to full power.Thanks for the videos.
Nice demostration
I have been watching your journey since you dropped the drill and its nice to see its all coming together, take care and be safe. RobUK
Go man go it is nice when a machine can help fix itself
Awesome job! You fixed it like a pro! Wait... you are a pro! Nice work
You sold me. I'm converting to a radial arm drill and selling my mag drill. But I'm a little worried about the cable on my bridge crane!
Seriously, it really is impressive to watch that big thing work. Thanks for all your videos. I never miss one.
No worries, just replace your cable now. lol Can't sell the mag drill though as you need both sonce they both have different advantages and disadvantages. :-)
That spiral bit grinder you have rules!
That's the largest r.a. drill I have ever seen. Nice video.
They made them a lot bigger just not a lot of them in home shops for sure.
Lots faster than a regular drill press for sure.
That was a perfect demo for this beast.
Nice to see it up and running Brian good job big thumbs up
Nice repair Brian, well done.
Enjoyed Brian!
ATB, Robin
nicely done thanks for sharing and not giving up !!!!!
When i sharpen a drill ,the only thing for sure is that the drill will get SHORTER sometimes it gets sharper ! I saw the tool grinder in the shop i worked in BANG a two inch drill into a grinder four times , he handed it back to the user who said " cuts like a new one ". Awed and jealous did not quite cover my reaction !
Good one Brian, nice to see it working thanks John
Great machine! Glad you're finally able to get some work out of it instead of work into it. I predict lots of videos including this drill! LOL Can't wait to see the horizontal boring mill, I'll buy a front row ticket for a big boring job.
As far as i know radial arm drilling machines are ideal for large drilling and deep drilling and long and wade parts but since Cnc has came about they becoming rare as it is cheaper and more accurate to interpolate the hole with an endmill but I have never seen a radial arm drill use U-drill or an indexable drill which are the fastest way of drilling large holes but main reason you don't see them on anything manual is the power requirement to run the tool at its required speeds and feeds.
For me it feels like a very very large pedestal drill but the head moves not the table never used a radial drill but never seen a use for it since anything that requires that sort of power we just use the cnc to do it and if the hole is beyond the holder size we can always use a boring head but very very very rare we would need to do that
Brian, Bravo....
Great video!
Like he's using it for, these machines are especially good for drilling (and reaming) large workpieces and large diameter holes that utilize drills with Morse Taper shanks, above and beyond a Jacobs Chuck...
...Yes indeed...it is kind of obvious... that these are way ... WAY larger like 3 inch diam. ++ MT #5 Drill shanks. Imagine trying to drive a drill bit through
3" diameter, in 4 inch thick plate with the 3 small lines of contact of the jaws of a Jacobs chuck!
I already knew what they could do, used a smaller one before the best way to use it is how you did drilling several holes in a part. GladYou have it all running Just need a BIG Power Supply Or a Big DC Welder! What Voltage/Amperage do you need to power that Bad Boy Up?
Great to see it make holes. Better hurry on that concrete, or you will miss the most miserably hot time of year to pour lol. Be nice to see how you set up the drill with the HBM. How were you going to set up the dc power you need for that? Is the HBM dc too?
it's grate to see its working and looking grate Brian sir
I love your attitude and work ethic. I wish I could be more like you man.
Why do you not have enough power for the drill? Didn't it come with rectifiers for the big D.C. Motor? If not I can show you how to build one. It's only about $300 for all the parts if for example you wanted 650 volts at 150 amps of D.C. Power. It would be much cheaper if you didn't need that much power.
I need 250volts and at least 80 amps.
bcbloc02 Hi Brian. That would be an easy power supply for you to build. If you can tell me about the power coming into your shop I would be happy to design one for you and spec the parts and safety circuit. Can you please tell me:
1) What voltage do you have coming into your shop from the power company? It could be 110, 220, 240, 360, 440, or 460. Those might not be the exact voltages, but you should have something close to those numbers.
2) How many phases does the power company provide you with? Single phase, or 3 phase?
3) How many amps is the service?
The total cost should be around $100 if you build it from parts and make your own case. The case would be a cake walk for you given your fab talents.
Well maybe closer to $50 if Yaoundé don't need an isolated supply. Is there anything left of the original power supply?
The original power supply was a motor generator set that was running all the DC for the whole factory. My power supply is 240V single phase at 400 amps coming into my shop. I also will eventually have my phase converter in there too that will make my 3 phase for my other machines. The drill is 230VDC and about 80 amps so something capable of 100amps would probably be good.
bcbloc02
Okay Brian we should be able to get you going in no time. Just a few more questions:
1) Does the machine require just 250V DC to operate, or are there other voltages for different motors also required?
2) Also, could you please measure the resistance from both the positive and negative 250V power inputs and the body of the machine? It should ideally be 0 Ohms to 1 Mega Ohm. Whatever that value is, please let me know.
3) How are you powering the drill right now? Welder? What voltage was it running at for this video?
Fascinating-do you have a video of the repair to the Carlton? No matter how big the shop is, it fills itself to take up all available space. Thank you for sharing your great projects. 👍🛠🇦🇺🔭
Yes if you look at my playlists there is a series on the drill repairs.
That's one heck of a drill, Brian! I was wondering why you wouldn't just use a mag drill but wow...
So what is the time on the Tormach or even the Haas to drill the 10 3/4" holes 10x60" apart? :-)
Good repair, working great!!! Chris
Great repair job, well done.
Anyone who has used one knows the value of them for repetition and accuracy. First machine I learnt to use
I like the sign, "Each Operator Clean Up Chips."
That has to happen here sign or no! lol
nice drill glad it's working
Around 3: Order of operations...so important.
"How long do you think it would take to drill ten 3/4D x 1L holes over 5square feet of area in your shop?"
In the shop I work at it would take in the range of 1 minuet.
This is to drill and reposition for the next hole only. My time estimate is based on using a CNC HMC with 1,000 psi thru spindle coolant and a ceramic coated solid carbide coolant thru drill bit.
2,000 RPM @ .014 "/rev = 28"/Min
1"(Hole) + .1"(feed prior to material) + .1"(feed below hole bottom) = 1.2"
(1.2" / 28" ) * 60 = 2.57 Seconds to drill 1 hole
1.5 * 2.57 = 3.85 Seconds per hole (This is an approximation to include retracting to the clearance plane and the effects of acceleration)
(5 SqFt)^.5 = 2.236'
2.236' * 12 = 26.83"
(26.83" / 2400"/Min (Rapid traverse rate) ) * 60 = .67 S
.67S * 3 = 2S
3.85 + 2 = 5.85
5.85 * 10 = 58.5 Seconds
That said I would not expect to be able to get the machine programed and set up in 14 minutes.
So for a couple parts you would be much faster with your radial arm drill.
Can't beat a cnc on repetition! I would love to have a bunch of coolant thru drills.
when it is under full power will it swivel and extend out and raise and lower under power or all manual ??? great job on repair
The swivel lock and unlock is by power but you have to rotate it by hand, all the other axis are powered. When the lock unlock is working correctly it moves extremely easy as the whole thing is mounted on a giant roller bearing.
It will raise and lower.Also I believe it can be set to cut threads.When I worked at a shipyard they had one that size and it got more use than any other machine. They had a huge boring head for it and it bored many holes for sheaves,etc.
bcbloc02 u
I see blue chips mixed in with the bigger silver chips. Wondering if those were made at the start of the cut before there was a thick enough chip to carry away the cutting heat? Your bit must be really good quality to not get boogered up by making those blue chips. When I see blue while using HSS, generally bad things happen :(
That's got to be a great feeling to make some chips doing real work with a tool you fixed. Keep up the great work, AND letting us see you do it!
The blue chips come at the end when breaking thru and the mass isn't there to pull away the heat anymore.
It would literally take me a week to do that. Between the aggravation of drilling the holes with improper drills and breaking bits. Glad you stopped the mag drill comments before they started. Sorry for the dumb question but can you put Jacobs chucks in there and what's the smallest bit it could use practically? Great video!
I doubt I would ever run anything smaller then 1/16" in it. I have the 1/4-20 rule in my shop so that keeps me from getting too small. It is simply a Morse taper spindle so you can put drills, drill chucks, end mills, boring heads or whatever you want to turn in it using the correct adapters.
bcbloc02 another dumb question. What is the 1/4 20 rule?
If it uses smaller than 1/4-20 thread fasteners then I don't work on it in my shop.
That is a monster machine.
Brian, how you doing for proper hold down clamps and hardware? if you don't already have some, get some of the Bessy Right-Height style of clamps, they work great for jobs like that. I also have a couple of the ones that have the screw you tighten down onto work pieces, kind of like a c-clamp. A dedicated stud and hardware set just for the drill would be nice to have.
I am going to have to get a dedicated hold down kit for the drill anyway as it has smaller t-slot hardware than my other machines. I definitely need to keep a look out for some of those right height clamps too since I think they would be perfect for jobs like this and not having to fool with the extra stand block for the clamp saves time.
@@bcbloc02 What is time, again? Hobby funds.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I was stupid lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Ronin Lennox Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Ronin Lennox It worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out!
We already know it is good for roaching the floor.
Brian, did you ever move the Carlton from where you repaired it by the doors ?
Not yet
Wow that is an incredible machine. How did you assemble that monster? did you ut it together and build the building around it? Or did you assemble it piece by piece?
Might want to watch some of my older videos about how it got there. It has been quite the adventure.
It is really an ongoing epic adventure! It's not over yet.
I went back and watched the videos. That was quite the adventure.
That drill is awesome
Very impressive drilling operations. I'm amazed how easily you were able to swing that arm around. Is your power limitations due to that your still using the welder to power that DC motor? What is the actual power requirements for that machine?
It swings a lot easier when the clamp isn't partially on. Actual requirements are 230VDC and 80 amps. I only have about 60VDC now.
Thanks for that clarification, I was a little worried about you swinging it without it bolted down. They'll flop over real easy.
Using the crane hook in a lifting eye at the top of the column is another good way to keep it from tipping far if it gets away from you.
I tried it out and it can go full 90deg to the base and with the drill head extended to the end of the arm + me hanging my 200lbs off the end of it and it was still stable. I of course had the arm safetied with the crane just in case but it didn't even give a hint of instability. I think with the massive base + large heavy column it is more stable than a lot of the smaller drills+ the big DC motor and plate of steel on the motor mount I welded back on counterbalances it a fair bit too.
Brian, Great demonstration!
When you swing the arm from left to right is there a clamp that is engaged to keep it in place or do you just rely on the mass of the machine?
One suggestion. Please move the hoist chain out of the video frame.
All the best!
Eric
Yes there is supposed to be an electric activated hydraulic clamp for the swing. With the low voltage it won't operate the coils so it isn't working so I am using it with it partially locked so I can still move it but it stays on its own.
nice one! glad its working:)
Would love to see a four inch drilling! But would need the power I guess
Looks like you could reach the controls a lot easier by standing on the table.
Good video nice machine
7.5 minutes per hole with a mag drill? i guess that would depend on the power of the drill, but 3/4 is a size you can get annular cutters in iirc, those are a lot faster than trying to get a twist drill to make chips of all that steel.
GREAT VIDEO !!
I think It's going to be just fine.
I used to run the same damn drill as that.identical to it.i broke a ton of taps with it
Certainly not going to choke the drill out if the tap binds!
No Cutting oil?
That's a BIG one!
This guy is like an SNL character!
A machine like that is good for making big holes in big work-pieces
Run It With Hyd. Motors, Get parts from old cement mixer?
I mean you could but that doesn't seem super practical since would have to have pump plumbing and controls as well.
@@bcbloc02 Yes it would but, RPM, Power would be like a DC motor? Maybe a Gen. would be much better ?
how much does this thing weigh? its a monster
About 12.5 ton.
So I just watched Adam's new video on his drill press, and here I am watching this one wondering where you get a normal size drill press and a two-foot tall person to talk about it. o.O
For scale I am as tall as Adam. :-)
@@bcbloc02 I figured it was pretty close, I'm just still trying to wrap my head around the size of that machine!
Fine piece of equipment, but.........As you have it set up there, drilling a 3/4" hole, it looks like using a sledge hammer to drive a carpet tack. :)
A Hougans Annular ring cutter would probably work for that piece. Much smaller and cheaper.
I have annular cutters for my mag drill. The standard bit in the radial will cut the hole faster than the annular will in my mag. Big advantage for me is the drill is easy to resharpen an annular cutter is not. Also can't use annular cutters on non thru holes. They both have their advantages and disadvantages.
How do you know you are exactly over cross hairs?
Practice :-)
impressive!
Without a machine like that, it would take me forever to drill those holes! A mag drill is so sloooow.
Now do I REALLY need to do a "nice tight hole" joke..... too easy.. LOL
Can't wait to see it hog a nice size hole.
When I set the ball on the Tee somebody is supposed to hit it!
So, It's a DC motor, what voltage and current is needed?
230volts dc 80 amps
Not too bad, straightforward rectifier would do the trick,
Or go old school with a motor/Gen set.
Diodes are dirt cheap, one o these,
www.ebay.com/p/100-Amp-1000v-Positive-Cathode-Case-Stud-Mount-Diode-Rectifier-Power-Supply-100a/1154171713?iid=121863705112
or a couple in parallel on a chunk of aluminium would be fine.
So I buy 1 cathode and 1 anode hook them to my AC power leads and get 60 cycle DC out the other side?
This might give partial answer. www.wikihow.com/Tell-Which-Way-Round-a-Diode-Should-Be
Good to see that badboy in action Brian. Does the head/spindle articulate at all? So no need to tram it to the table? I would be curious to see how the speed of that would compare to a mag drill.
Nope just goes straight down. You want an angle you have to angle the workpiece. I estimated it 5 times faster than my mag drill.
lol id be chain drilling them with a 3/16 bit and cutting out the middles and setting them up and boring them... your drill looks easier.. :)
Hey you work with the tools you have. :-) Getter done!
It sure beats my dewalt.
The boss may always ignore any signage.
DRO?
GPS?
Grandpa Cocky I was thinking the same thing. That would also be an awesome CNC conversion project. Take some honkin' servos though. 😁
That is why I intend to combine its location with the HBM so I can lock the drill in one location and use the DRO on the HBM table to position the parts for high accuracy hole drilling when it is needed.
Now that is FUNNY!
With an angular scale for the turn, Brian could brush off some of his polar coordinate system skills.