16 VOLT , 36V, and 12V Lithium Sonar, Boat, and Trolling Motor Battery Set-up EXPLAINED
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- Опубликовано: 22 окт 2024
- Are 16 volt batteries worth it for a side imaging, livescope, mega live, or active target? Do I get a clearer picture? Are 36 volt lithium batteries right for you? Why would I use a lithium cranking battery in my boat?
Lots of questions, with lots of answers in this one!
Join along as I walk you through the full battery and on-board charging set up in my new 2023 Lund 2075 Pro V Bass
Also, I accidentally mixed up the amperage size of the 16 volt 100 ah and the 12 volt 105 ah crankin' batts, but I'll likely hear about it anyway!
Thanks for watching, drop your questions below, and pleaseLIKE and SUBSCRIBE if you learned anything!
Powerhouse batteries available at www.sportsheadquarters.ca and in person in Kenora and Winnipeg Lake of the Woods Sports locations in Canada
Check out www.powerhouselithium.com for more information
Keep up the good work in the opens!!! We all want you in the elite series!!! Love the Open Recaps
Very nice video explaining the set up for Lithium batteries. I have a single 36v 63AH from Dakota Lithium to power my Minn Kota Ulterra on a Ranger 223 FC (Fish and Cruse)(tri-toon) Pontoon boat. I currently have a single 24 size lead acid crank battery, however two graphs, live well and normal boat accessories run off this setup.
However, I have had some power issues with this smaller battery, so I have begun my research for the ‘Dual Purpose’ Lithium batteries to address the power issue. This way I can get clean, level voltage to my electronics. I only fish 2-4 hours at any one time and looking for something for alternative power connection.
One question I ask you about the cranking setup, I do have a 60A breaker on the trolling motor, would I also need additional breakers for my electronics or between the main power (+) connection, when using a lithium battery verse’s my lead acid I currently using for connection. Currently I believe my graphs are connected to the fuse panel that came with the boat for power and along with the other accessories. Boat dealer installed the graphs thus not sure of wiring. This boat has aluminum cladding underneath, so I have been told running wires could add to labor costs. Thanks for you suggestions and expertise!
great explanation Jamie, very impressive technology!
Can't wait for the next opens episode you are quietly I great shape
I’ve been drooling over their system for a long time but I only fish with my 11 year old son heavy during school break and weekends during school so quite a bit to invest. I also run Lowrance which I’m not quite sure how much of an advantage it provides over 12V like it does to other systems.
Deadly set up!
What a wicked setup Brucey, you have been an absolute unit on the opens so far. I’m fired to see what the northern swing has in store for you. Also wondering- does the the lithium cranking battery void the warranty on the merc or has that changed now ?
I would also like to know that too
does the the lithium cranking battery void the warranty on the merc or has that changed now ?
AGM is all that's needed on cranking..I run 5 graphs,livescope & pumps on 1 31 AGM...Never an issue..But I run a SHO...
Pretty slick setup!
just learned powerhouse has non-transferable warranty -- so it would be a lifetime investment
the charge on the go is an interesting feature
also the wiring kits--very clean
They’re light , you can lift er out of the ol champ
Love my powerhouse and runngun
Great video Jamie ! So do you think a guy that trolls on Lake Erie all day can get by with 1 36V battery ? Obviously using a kicker to push and 36V Ulterra to steer. 👍
You connect your graphs to the crankin battery. or cranckin battery is only for engine and remaining service (pumps) etc
very nice Jamie.
Do you still use the same size fuses HB recommends with that size amp?
I need you to wire my boat next time... You know more than the guys that rig at the marinas 😉
Hi Jamie. Would you think I’d be ok to go with a Lithium 12V 135AH battery for starting my 150hp Pro XS and run 2 12” Helix’s with mega live? Would the alternator in my motor be ok and charge the lithium battery? Great video. Thanks Bud
For sure you would be ok, that’s a lot of jam
@@jamiebrucefishing Thanks for letting me know. Still seems to be a good debate on using lithium for a starting battery eh. But I’ll try it. I also will have 2 12V 100AH running my Terrova. I’m taking 90lbs out of my Lund 1875 Impact XS. That’s huge. Can’t wait for April. Cheers
I'm going through a technical difficulties right now with a battery system.I need some help with.How can I contact you direct Maybe we could work out something for you could do to design
Hey Jamie, what heater are you running in the garage? Is it electric or gas?
Gas mr heater 80,000
@@jamiebrucefishing Thanks bro..I'm shopping around...
@@inaslump no prob ! Had this one for 9 years, no issues yet .. KOW
What battery charger do you use for the 16v ?
I use the 16v run and gun charger hooked to my house battery which has three leads from a Minn kota 330 .. powerhouse has a couple different 16v chargers as well.. this year I’m using their three bank that has 12,16,and 36v banks
You’re all needed out bud! 🤓
Monster marine lithium been ahead of everyone for years. They’re all in one dynamic charger and on the run chargers they have been doing for years now.
Okay
Overkill or just being smart , prepared 👍.
Works for me!
Can never have enough battery power thanks for the video
I got bad news for you, Jamie. There are only two ways to make a 16 volt lithium battery. They're either using a 4S lithium-NMC or a 5S lithium iron-phosphate. The NMC batteries are the ones Samsung put in their tablets...you know, the ones that caught fire when they suffered a thermal run-away situation? A 5S LiFePO4 battery would be very unusual. I've been following this industry for several years and don't know of anyone building a battery with that spec. The last thought I'll leave you with is a conventional 4S LiFePO4 battery has a nomimal voltage of 12.8 volts. Throughout roughly 90% of its discharge curve, it puts out about 13.2 volts. IF there is any voltage sag it would be a result of incorrect wire sizing, because none of the things you listed draw enough current to be a concern. Also, since those electronics use relatively little current, a 100 or 105AH battery is complete overkill. You got took.
My amperage draw from electronics is around 10ah , so for me the 100ah is about exactly what I need , especially with a charging system on the water
A 16v lifepo4 battery is very unusual, , which is mostly why I made this video. Unless all of my graphs are wrong, they all hold steady around 16.8 volts.
Not sure what else to tell ya!
100AH isn't a complete over kill buddy. This ain't a solar system. Most competitive anglers run several electronics, 4+ graphs, a livescope GLS10 box, 2 talons, and on board systems(livewell,radio). I run a 2X100AH 12V for electronics as well and it's nice knowing you can go fish for 12 hours for 2+ days and not need to recharge.
@@marcquenneville3305 - Yeah, I didn't account for the sheer volume of electronics competitive anglers are running. I still don't see where the 16v battery makes any sense, since a 10-amp draw is not going to cause any sag on a 12.8v LFP battery. Also, those batteries are absurdly expensive for what you get. On a per-watt-hour basis, they cost more than just about anything else on the market. I build my own power stations and trolling motor batteries, using component parts, and it costs less than half what they're asking for these products.
At least they ARE using LFP cells (in a 5S configuration) to create 16 volts. That's better than NMC, which is what I was afraid they were using. In the future, we'll all be able to get LMFP cells/batteries, which offer excellent gravimetric density w/o the concern of thermal runaway that NMC has...an important consideration on a boat!
Coming in here a little late, but wanted to comment on the whole 16V and 28V things being thrown around recently in the lithium space. I appreciate the fact some "feel" the higher voltage is going to produce better performance from their graphs, but the tech just doesn't fundamentally add up. Yes, electrically, less amperage will flow through the wire due to the step-up in voltage so you account for a minute amount of loss, particularly if you're using undersized gauge wire. If stepping up the voltage was so great, all you would hear from all the corners of forums and youtube is "ensure you are putting all your active sonar on 24V!" as nearly all the vendors have support of that voltage for some time. Hypothetically, the market would absolutely rush to convince us it's better ("We support 24volts, while our competitors only use 12V!")
All of this equipment already include DC-to-DC converters in them. Regretably we don't know what voltage ultimately the device needs to run (not without breaking open the device and testing it). The vendors provide these power supplies to ensure they can handle spikes and dips in the voltage overall from their power input (or it's just because the converter they have is either because of size, quality or cost of that component). All the extra complication for adding 16V and 28V step-ups (also... an odd voltage and as stated by @jasonbroom7147 something quite unique is being done to achieve the 16V in the battery)
Lithium is great. 12, 24, 36 voltage all work great. Lots of vendors in this space now which is great (perhaps, however, some in "enhanced" pricing category due to brand and bro recognition). My guess is that some that feel they are seeing better things is partially due to the switch to lithium, and perhaps more so because the "unique setup required" to use these new voltages requires revamped wiring (replacing previous wiring perhaps not appropriate for the needed demand). The shift to lithium will likely reduce if not eliminate concerns of lower voltage drop (due to the flat nature the medium), but still not correct for an improper gauge and/or length of wire run for the needed workload amperage. Use the right size wire for the amperage and associated loss/distance will work every time. Keep it simple.
Last comment: there are now videos coming out showing no real difference when using different voltages for their active sonar. It would be great if pros and vendors alike that espouse the benefits of using these new voltages show the real-world gain they are realizing from it so people can make an informed decision rather than experiencing FOMO.
@@SirWoogie - Yeah, but you can't charge extra for a 16v battery AND dedicated charger, unless you claim they add some kind of value.