Thank you so much for the help, I am master certified but have been running mostly residential calls for 21 years, our commercial guy is out & I am trying to make sense of this. Thanks a bunch. Have to install one tomorrow
@@marcoalvarez1276 hello ! what about the domestic furnace, it the furnace or A/C is in service and meanwhile the fire occurs and smoke detector senses the smoke in the duct, your suggested 24 volts wiring will stop the signal from TS to furnace, but the blower motor has to still run for 2~3 minutes and it can circulate the smoke for 2~3 minutes and this is not accepted by the HVAC inspector !!!, please suggest the wiring ( 115 Volts) to get the blower motor also same time 1 waiting your suggestion ..........! an HVAC tech.
Boss! Thank you so much. Your video so straight forward, simple and clear.... Despite of my being just a home owner, I could do it so easily. I wired and tested. It's shuts thermostate fully. No need to think of any blowers furnace or AC... I subscribe right now
i spent 2 hours trying to figure it out with the diagram provided couldn’t do it, watched this vid got it right away, thanks bro!! amazing explanation!!
I was working on a no cool for a RTU (orginally a PM) I couldent fiqure out the issue. Turns out that the smoke detector got water inside of it. I did not quite understand how the smoke detector was the issue, but Seeing your video really helped me to understand better thanks for sharing!
on a roof top there is typically a jumper on the board that you remove and wire the 2 normally closed contacts to. i just run a 4 wire line from RTU to the smoke detector. R and C to the 24v input and 2 other wires often green and white to the NC contacts from the removed jumper terminals on the board. save you a wire running to the stat that can often be very far away.
great video. as a newer technician I put my first smoke detector on today. Couldn't figure out for the life of me how to wire it up. instructions that came with it might as well been in chinese... with no actual diagram. thanks alot for the help!
Lol that's why I wanted to put this video out. When I installed my first smoke detector the same thing happened to me too. No easy to read schematic. Thanks for watching
Hey man thanxz a lot for the video, because last time I did install one detector and I did burn off alots controls, Because the wiring diagram at the instruction are bad!! Got it man:) Got bless you!! Body!!
Steve Bines no problem. All you have to do is cut you a small opening where you can fit your hand in and use small pieces of sheet metal on the inside and screw into it so it catches. Once you do that the smoke detector isn’t going anywhere! 👍🏽
thanks for the info. i got the return sensor in ok now i want to add and loop a supply sensor to the return power board i am using D4P120 Power board and a D41220 duct dector. should the sensor board has primary and secondary i connected the supply to the secopndary plugin but the supply also has 2 sensor posissions should i plug the wires in to the first plug in to tie the line as one or do i connect them to the secondary plug
awesome man your a life saver from Canada and they require it when 2 living spaces share one furnace it's on the drawings from the engineer and when opened package I mean to mount the unit is a piece of cake but wiring diagram was from outer space thanks again brother appreciate it.. does it still 120VAC I'm dealing with the SYSTEM SENSOR D4120
Hi, your video helped me a lot. Thank you. If I have multiple roof top units, do I wire them in series or one by one ? Like from one smoke detector to another ?
hey Marco Thanks again I'm going to be installing a smoke detector tonight just wondering if I need to hoop up 120 VAC or it will function with just the 24 VAC thanks again
Is there any optical where the smoke detector can keep 24 V off of the terminals on the panel? So as to not having twenty four volts coming off the r terminal
Best on RUclips. However I got into with an Inspector on how useless they are for restaurant's/ Bars. He was on the oxygen feeding the fire shit. I ask him has he ever seen a restaurant or business not burn to the ground because this saved it? He just yelled it's code. So a week later a Rams Horn I was working at burned down to the ground because of a grease fire overnight. I asked him how the smoke detectors did.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
My friend explained it to me just like this. Would you be able to do a video including the float with the smoke. We use to do waterguard floats but now we’re starting to use the rectorseal safety switch
thanks for the video I've been doung this for a few years now working on bigger commercial units. My question is where on the detector would you wire accessories like a key station reset or a strobe light. thanks for your help
That won't pass inspection in my area because the fan must stop immediately. Brake the power with 6 & 16 between the board and the transformer instead of R. 'SYSTEM SENSOR' DUCT DETECTOR: 1 & 12 are the interlock wires that go from detector to detector. If using interlock you must power all duct detectors from the same transformer. All duct detectors must be the same brand. An isolation relay is required if you have an X-13 style fan motor because you must break 120v to the fan. - 9 - 24 v AC/DC ~ TRANSFORMER (WHITE) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors from 1 transformer - 10 - 24 v AC/DC ~ TRANSFORMER (RED) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors from 1 transformer - 1 - detector 1 ~ DETECTOR (YELLOW) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors - 12 - detector 12 ~ DETECTOR (GREEN) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors - 6 - 24 v ~ transformer hot (ORANGE) local transformer - 16 - 24 v ~ board hot (BLUE)
You may have a short some where because the smoke detector is breaking R to the stat so even if the fan on switch was on or the tstat was calling, it wouldn't have any 24 volts to do anything with. Does anything shut down when the smoke detector trips??
i've used your diagram in the field. your break at the red leg is a little problematic i can't tell from your picture what is being done with the broken leg at that junction. your picture seems to be showing a wire nut. for me, it's much simpler to break power between transformer and xfmr at the circuit board. one hot leg from trans goes to #9 and leg at xfmr on board goes to #16. in other words, the path of power is moving from the transformer through the smoke (n/c normal operation) and jumper completes the circuit back to xfmr. i would like a different detail in your drawing showing your thinking at that point. most of your commenters understand and love your drawing. one guy did blow a fuse. stay safe and may the force be with you.
If you power the detector with r and c from the air handler(furnace) board and then break on the transformer from r to 7 through 18 and back to the 24v terminal on the board you are done (no jumper required) and will provide 100% shut off with no delay .
can you explain this better? 7 and 18 are normally open so smoke would close this circuit, sending power from r to the 24v terminal, would that not short something? I agree with your comment, the diagram on the video is simple but it does have a fairly long delay from sensing smoke and stopping the call for heat to actually shutting down the fan, in my area we have 1 minute from the time the inspector puts smoke in the tube until everything is shut down but if theres a simple way to shut everything down with no delay that would be better.
@@openyuheyeby8674 yeah i did, anything after the transformer wont kill the fan, its direct with 120 volt so when you kill the transformer it still finishes its cool down cycle. I cut the main 120 volt power supply in the furnace and ran 3 wire up to the smoke detector unit, marrette the line side of the power supply at the furnace to the black and white of the 3 wire, run the 3 wire up to the unit, go the the 120volt feed to power the unit, run a jumper from the black at the 120 feed to the common screw, put the red from the 3 wire on the normally closed (n/c) and then connect the furnace line side black to the red that returns from the smoke detector (marrette all whites), this kills the entire furnace including fan the second the smoke detector goes off. i had a real hard time figuring that out because the people that sell those smoke detectors dont know if those contacts are rated for 120 volt. I just experimented and its been running for about 5 months now with no issue. if i ever have an issue i will re post about it but this is the way i will be doing them from now on, from the second you put smoke into the detector everything is completely dead within 10 seconds or so and it works with a/c as well, killing the themostats call for heat may not work for a/c or if there using the fan to circulate air all you need is about 6 feet of armored 3 wire(bx)
Its been almost 2 years since i wired it up with 120 volt and its still working, I would say they are rated for 120 volt. I have wired in quite a few through the transformer like most people do because most of our inspectors just look to see if the unit is installed, they dont actually test it with smoke. I will only be wiring them up with 120 now and cutting the power to the entire furnace. 24 volt is too slow, up to 2 minutes sometimes to complete the cool down cycle and turn off. @@kaktusnrg
HALF PINT CUSTOMS What do you mean you did it “the way it’s said in book”? It’s the same for split or package unit. You just need to send a constant 24 r and com to power the smoke detector and break the circuit at the normally closed dry contact. If your popping the fuse, you have a shorted wire somewhere or miswired it
system sensor manual is like reading chinese, they need to make basic instructions like you just provided. I know theres the know it alls that just know everything and dont even need a manual but for fuck sakes i spend $200 to buy this you better make it simple install like this video shows. GREAT JOB
Little confused on the ground ... I don't remember a ground on detector but on carrier rtu their new board has a spot for smoke detector 24v ... Before I just used to break the xfmr ... Everything else same way
Yeah that's another common way to do it as well. I be done it before, I just hate snipping the factory wire coming from the xfmr, but that's the most common way. Thanks for watching
This may be late , Normally you already have a 5 wire or 8 wire run from your RTU/AHU(split sytem) to your smoke detector , with that being said you can always eliminate the jumper from 9 to 6 and just power the 6 terminal with another wire coming from your RTU/AHU.
Finally a video that straight to the point, thorough and precise. Great job bro!!!
I can't tell you how many times this video saved my brain
Glad it helped👍🏽
Thank you so much for the help, I am master certified but have been running mostly residential calls for 21 years, our commercial guy is out & I am trying to make sense of this. Thanks a bunch. Have to install one tomorrow
Glad it can help
I also have to install a P2W horn/strobe & remote test station key testing thing I am reading the books now
@@marcoalvarez1276 hello ! what about the domestic furnace, it the furnace or A/C is in service and meanwhile the fire occurs and smoke detector senses the smoke in the duct, your suggested 24 volts wiring will stop the signal from TS to furnace, but the blower motor has to still run for 2~3 minutes and it can circulate the smoke for 2~3 minutes and this is not accepted by the HVAC inspector !!!,
please suggest the wiring ( 115 Volts) to get the blower motor also same time 1
waiting your suggestion ..........!
an HVAC tech.
@@uffaqq hey did you find out the wY to do that ?
Any solution to that? I have the same problem. Please and thank you
This is a great video for technicians trying to wire a duct smoke detector to a furnace (hi efficiency)
Very useful. Every time I stand before a smoke detector I watch this video to recall the information! Thank you.
Did 4 yesterday for the first time with help of your video. Thank hero
Boss! Thank you so much.
Your video so straight forward, simple and clear.... Despite of my being just a home owner, I could do it so easily.
I wired and tested. It's shuts thermostate fully. No need to think of any blowers furnace or AC...
I subscribe right now
i spent 2 hours trying to figure it out with the diagram provided couldn’t do it, watched this vid got it right away, thanks bro!! amazing explanation!!
did u get it done , on commerical unit ? or residential ?
I was working on a no cool for a RTU (orginally a PM) I couldent fiqure out the issue. Turns out that the smoke detector got water inside of it. I did not quite understand how the smoke detector was the issue, but Seeing your video really helped me to understand better thanks for sharing!
on a roof top there is typically a jumper on the board that you remove and wire the 2 normally closed contacts to. i just run a 4 wire line from RTU to the smoke detector. R and C to the 24v input and 2 other wires often green and white to the NC contacts from the removed jumper terminals on the board. save you a wire running to the stat that can often be very far away.
great video. as a newer technician I put my first smoke detector on today. Couldn't figure out for the life of me how to wire it up. instructions that came with it might as well been in chinese... with no actual diagram. thanks alot for the help!
Lol that's why I wanted to put this video out. When I installed my first smoke detector the same thing happened to me too. No easy to read schematic. Thanks for watching
Super! Easy to understand and clarity. Thank you!
You're right, not too much simple info online, thanks bro.
Simplest explanation yet thanks bro
Hey man thanxz a lot for the video, because last time I did install one detector and I did burn off alots controls,
Because the wiring diagram at the instruction are bad!!
Got it man:)
Got bless you!! Body!!
you make it so easy to understand the simplicity of installation. now i have to figure out how to mount it on duct board so it stays thanks agan
Steve Bines no problem. All you have to do is cut you a small opening where you can fit your hand in and use small pieces of sheet metal on the inside and screw into it so it catches. Once you do that the smoke detector isn’t going anywhere! 👍🏽
Steve Bines thanks for watching btw
thanks for the info. i got the return sensor in ok now i want to add and loop a supply sensor to the return power board i am using D4P120 Power board and a D41220 duct dector. should the sensor board has primary and secondary i connected the supply to the secopndary plugin but the supply also has 2 sensor posissions should i plug the wires in to the first plug in to tie the line as one or do i connect them to the secondary plug
Very nice video. One question i have a 25ton package unit and at the board I have an Estop label should I break red and put it there?
awesome man your a life saver from Canada and they require it when 2 living spaces share one furnace it's on the drawings from the engineer and when opened package I mean to mount the unit is a piece of cake but wiring diagram was from outer space thanks again brother appreciate it.. does it still 120VAC I'm dealing with the SYSTEM SENSOR D4120
Thank you, well explained. Just needed the basic " Braking from R " and feeding 24V pwr to DSD
Great detail on understanding the wiring 👍God blessings bro 🙏
Can I ask what the reason for the additional Ground is for ?
The wiring diagram is TOTALLY AWESOME!!!
My question is what about from the thermostat to the RTU should I run a another wire?
Helll yeaa goood shit bro!!!! Very smart and well spoken
Not only is a simple diagram but it works thank you
Thanks man ! you made it super easy to understand !
exactly what i was looking for! Thanks for the knowledge.
Video just saved me man thanks a lot really helped me out today
Do you have to run the R from thermostat direct to the Detector.. Or do you just run the R from thermostat to the furnace board as well as #16
Hi, your video helped me a lot. Thank you. If I have multiple roof top units, do I wire them in series or one by one ? Like from one smoke detector to another ?
Thanks for the diagram dude. Your right... can't find much online
Do you have any videos on interlocking them to another system? That way it shuts off another RTU if one detector shuts down
Did you figure this out bro I need help !!?
hey Marco Thanks again I'm going to be installing a smoke detector tonight just wondering if I need to hoop up 120 VAC or it will function with just the 24 VAC thanks again
Aaron Buzit it can function with both, but if your linking it with the hvac equipment just use 24 volts.
Good video. You are correct, not allot of wiring diagrams on smoke detectors
Sweet video! Thanks man!
Do W G Y C go direct to rooftop?
Thank for your easy way , definitely I will do it
Is there any optical where the smoke detector can keep 24 V off of the terminals on the panel? So as to not having twenty four volts coming off the r terminal
Very simple good job !!!
Hola marco una pregunta puedo aplicar esto en electric air handler residential Hello, can I apply this method on an electric air handler?
Simple way of doing it, agree with you!
thank you , this should be same for typical forced air gas furnace ? with typical 4 wired thermostat ?
thanks
Nice work. I'm a service tech, never wired one up.
Best on RUclips. However I got into with an Inspector on how useless they are for restaurant's/ Bars. He was on the oxygen feeding the fire shit. I ask him has he ever seen a restaurant or business not burn to the ground because this saved it? He just yelled it's code. So a week later a Rams Horn I was working at burned down to the ground because of a grease fire overnight. I asked him how the smoke detectors did.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
typical fire inspector
Doing 3 of them .thanks
First time wiring smoke detector. How are you running 16 back to R at Tstat. Make it make sense to me. Thanks in advance
My friend explained it to me just like this. Would you be able to do a video including the float with the smoke. We use to do waterguard floats but now we’re starting to use the rectorseal safety switch
it's a nice diagram (very clear and easy to read)
Thanks for watching. I appreciate it
So, this a stupid question don’t you need three wires to break a circuit u only show two going back to the red from the thermostat? Thanks
thanks for the video I've been doung this for a few years now working on bigger commercial units. My question is where on the detector would you wire accessories like a key station reset or a strobe light. thanks for your help
It doesn't shut the fan down right away and I failed inspection. Can someone help
I think you need to have ur a relay by its self
Great job. Very well done.
so i can install on any furnace the way you explained marco?
Lifesaver! Awesome!
great video thanks for the help
How do you test this smoke detector
Great video, thanks for sharing
Somethings wrong when I hook jumper from 9 to 6 at smoke that’s popping my fuse
Exelent explanation
How can l share my wiring diagrams with so you can post this one too very simple 115 volts let me know
Can I power the detector from r and c on furnace board. And then break the r wire from stat and go to 7and 18
but was just wondering if this will work for a residential application (
Bro you saved my ass today thanks
S Moseley lol I'm glad it helped someone! It's crazy how there is very little wiring info on smoke detectors online.
Explain why you jump R to common????
God bless you 🙏🙏🙏
how does it all connect to the building fire alarm system?
Most Duct Smokes circuit boards have a N.O. alarm terminal +/- that connect to the alarm circuit IDC(direct) or SLC(via monitor module)
What is the model of this smoke detector that you are using?
That won't pass inspection in my area because the fan must stop immediately. Brake the power with 6 & 16 between the board and the transformer instead of R.
'SYSTEM SENSOR' DUCT DETECTOR:
1 & 12 are the interlock wires that go from detector to detector. If using interlock you must power all duct detectors from the same transformer. All duct detectors must be the same brand.
An isolation relay is required if you have an X-13 style fan motor because you must break 120v to the fan.
- 9 - 24 v AC/DC ~ TRANSFORMER (WHITE) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors from 1 transformer
- 10 - 24 v AC/DC ~ TRANSFORMER (RED) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors from 1 transformer
- 1 - detector 1 ~ DETECTOR (YELLOW) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors
- 12 - detector 12 ~ DETECTOR (GREEN) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors
- 6 - 24 v ~ transformer hot (ORANGE) local transformer
- 16 - 24 v ~ board hot (BLUE)
If you go r from thermostat you run the risk of blower not shutting off right away due to blower shut off delay
How do you connect a global smoke detectors sl-2000n
Thanks dude. Wish they would call it rc instead of common.
thank you for the info
What if you need to daisy chain multiple package units so that they all turn off if one senses fire/smoke.
Why are you using the different common wire
Are use the method seem to work but the fan will not turn off any suggestions thanks
You may have a short some where because the smoke detector is breaking R to the stat so even if the fan on switch was on or the tstat was calling, it wouldn't have any 24 volts to do anything with. Does anything shut down when the smoke detector trips??
What if there is a key station how would it be wired ?
Sir, please also make video on package A.C Blower fan control connection through supply and return dampers + fmsd& thermostate proper daigram
hi am new in this trade does the smoke detector go on the return or supply
Chad IEHVACR depends on code requirements in your area. I’ve seen one installed on both return and supply. Some on just return,etc
@@marcoalvarez1276 thank u
Usually just return. Your trying to stop smoke from passing through to the supply side.
i've used your diagram in the field. your break at the red leg is a little problematic i can't tell from your picture what is being done with the broken leg at that junction. your picture seems to be showing a wire nut. for me, it's much simpler to break power between transformer and xfmr at the circuit board. one hot leg from trans goes to #9 and leg at xfmr on board goes to #16. in other words, the path of power is moving from the transformer through the smoke (n/c normal operation) and jumper completes the circuit back to xfmr. i would like a different detail in your drawing showing your thinking at that point. most of your commenters understand and love your drawing. one guy did blow a fuse. stay safe and may the force be with you.
What about wire colors. Does it matter?
Ramon Maldonado colors don’t matter. It’s just used to identify which wire is used from one point to another
Thanks sooo much!
Thanks man you saved my ass
Wanted to let yall know that this wiring does not work for new carriers. Gotta run 4 wire and break and break jumper at the unit.
thank you sir
If you power the detector with r and c from the air handler(furnace) board and then break on the transformer from r to 7 through 18 and back to the 24v terminal on the board you are done (no jumper required) and will provide 100% shut off with no delay .
can you explain this better? 7 and 18 are normally open so smoke would close this circuit, sending power from r to the 24v terminal, would that not short something? I agree with your comment, the diagram on the video is simple but it does have a fairly long delay from sensing smoke and stopping the call for heat to actually shutting down the fan, in my area we have 1 minute from the time the inspector puts smoke in the tube until everything is shut down but if theres a simple way to shut everything down with no delay that would be better.
@@201lexi did you figure it out. Because I'm in a situation where I need the fan to shut off instantaneously
@@openyuheyeby8674 yeah i did, anything after the transformer wont kill the fan, its direct with 120 volt so when you kill the transformer it still finishes its cool down cycle. I cut the main 120 volt power supply in the furnace and ran 3 wire up to the smoke detector unit, marrette the line side of the power supply at the furnace to the black and white of the 3 wire, run the 3 wire up to the unit, go the the 120volt feed to power the unit, run a jumper from the black at the 120 feed to the common screw, put the red from the 3 wire on the normally closed (n/c) and then connect the furnace line side black to the red that returns from the smoke detector (marrette all whites), this kills the entire furnace including fan the second the smoke detector goes off. i had a real hard time figuring that out because the people that sell those smoke detectors dont know if those contacts are rated for 120 volt. I just experimented and its been running for about 5 months now with no issue. if i ever have an issue i will re post about it but this is the way i will be doing them from now on, from the second you put smoke into the detector everything is completely dead within 10 seconds or so and it works with a/c as well, killing the themostats call for heat may not work for a/c or if there using the fan to circulate air
all you need is about 6 feet of armored 3 wire(bx)
@@201lexi I'm about to do the same as Ive tried everything before touching the 120v. Any update? Aux A is 120v rated?
Its been almost 2 years since i wired it up with 120 volt and its still working, I would say they are rated for 120 volt. I have wired in quite a few through the transformer like most people do because most of our inspectors just look to see if the unit is installed, they dont actually test it with smoke. I will only be wiring them up with 120 now and cutting the power to the entire furnace. 24 volt is too slow, up to 2 minutes sometimes to complete the cool down cycle and turn off. @@kaktusnrg
How we control package a.c blower fan through smoke detector and supply, return duct dampers draw a wiring daigram and upload for us
grasias
Help please I’ve done it the way it said in book keep popping fuse. Is this the same for a split ??? I go tomorrow please comment soon lol
HALF PINT CUSTOMS
What do you mean you did it “the way it’s said in book”?
It’s the same for split or package unit. You just need to send a constant 24 r and com to power the smoke detector and break the circuit at the normally closed dry contact. If your popping the fuse, you have a shorted wire somewhere or miswired it
I must’ve shorted somewhere. But it’s the same for both package units and split systems. Your drawing.
Ty for the quick response
You right cuz. I had a shorted white wire ty so much man. Huge help.
Hi. Do we have to put ground. Or will it work with out?
William Herrera no almost all detectors don't have a ground. I just put it there just in case one did
Where is your reset station
They way we do it is we just have the smoke detector shut down the board on the unit.
system sensor manual is like reading chinese, they need to make basic instructions like you just provided. I know theres the know it alls that just know everything and dont even need a manual but for fuck sakes i spend $200 to buy this you better make it simple install like this video shows. GREAT JOB
Little confused on the ground ... I don't remember a ground on detector but on carrier rtu their new board has a spot for smoke detector 24v ... Before I just used to break the xfmr ... Everything else same way
Yeah that's another common way to do it as well. I be done it before, I just hate snipping the factory wire coming from the xfmr, but that's the most common way. Thanks for watching
thx for the post it works! lol.
gracias marcos deverias hacer videos en español también hay muy poca información en español acerca de hvac
thank you
Can you upload a video when you’re actually doing it please.
thanks .
I see now is not different common is that you braking the power with the NC contact
But why the jumper between 9 and 6?
Mwdub02 that's where your feeding your 24 hot (constant) that eventually goes to the thermostat
This may be late , Normally you already have a 5 wire or 8 wire run from your RTU/AHU(split sytem) to your smoke detector , with that being said you can always eliminate the jumper from 9 to 6 and just power the 6 terminal with another wire coming from your RTU/AHU.