I'm taking my DPF out this weekend to send it off to be professionally reconditioned. This video has really helped with that, thanks! Intake manifold and EGR from my N47N are also coming out to be cleaned!
Love your videos, I live in Miami, Fl , and when I was in the US ARMY I never had the chance to visit London, or any other part of England, I don’t know or I am not sure why I dream about your country, is like the first love , never been there but I can’t get England out of my mind. And now with this pandemic it is even worst, who knows when are we gonna be able to return to our normal lives again so I can accomplish my dream and visit your beautiful country. Regards sir, Ralph Madera.
You all prolly dont care at all but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Mekhi Mohammad Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Decided to change the back pressure sensor pipe. Big mistake. That banjo strips 90 percent of the time. You can tap the tread, which again means removing the manifold though. So unless you have problems don't mess with it :-) On N47 engine you can do the job without touching the DPF, but it's a bit of a PITA. Thanks for the video!
I had a similar case at N47 with that Banjo Bolt because of the rusty inner fillet, dificult to unscrew with some steps back and forth during using WD40. Before to use another Banjo I cleaned the grooves of the fillet where were deposits of rust at the entrance. The Banjo's material fillet is softer than the exhaust manifold and it destroys it during the banjo is being screwed. Thanks for the explanations!
Nice job as usual. Although a bit of a pity that you haven`t got your new manifold machine skimmed on surface where it meets gaskets. It is known issue that those manifolds bend over time and leak exhaust gas on frontal cylinders. This would be "stay on safe side" addition. Warm greetings from Poland.
Well, since there’s no published service interval for the timing chain it’s totally up to you really. If it were me, I wouldn’t be changing any timing chain before 100k. Perhaps towards 120k is a reasonable time to get it done (my opinion only) 👍
Thank you so much. As we all are in lock down, I am doing the majority of the service on my car. Oil service/ Brake pads and disk change ect. I also wanted to do a coolant flush..I am not sure how to bleed the air out completely without starting the engine. Is there anyway I can manually activate the water pump without starting the engine.....? Please help me
Yes, you can start the electric pump bleeding process by doing the following: Turn on the ignition (but do not start the engine), turn the climate fan to the slowest speed. Set both A/C temperatures to the highest temp. Now press your foot all the way on to the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds. If you listen carefully you should hear the pump start going which will move all the air around/out of the system. This process goes on for some time (10-15 mins or something like that) so it’s a good idea to connect a battery charger if you have one. 👍
Hi I change my manifold to and now I think I lost a gasket but it’s no were to find . Now I wonder Is it a gasket between the egr coolant and the exhaust manifold or not ?
If this happens to anyone else you can re thread it with the manifold still attached. My pipe was leaking and when I cracked the bolt I knew it would be agro, exactly the same thing happened. Its more there's crap in there rather than the thread is stripped. M12 x 1.5 tap and 30 minutes later the new bolt will go in there. Easy job
To add to this, wear thick gloves and run the engine why tapping it. It blows any swarf straight back out.. Gloves are essential as it gets hot very quickly these are exhaust gasses! Its sometimes easier than undoing the turbo especially if its bolted on and not on a quick connect ring
Hi I recently purchased a 5 series 2011 and I have a question please and was hoping you can help The light incide the car i.e dashboard very dim and I have no idea how to change the light incide. Please can you shed some light and let me know to sort it out Cheers
Hi just watched the manifold vid I need to refurb my turbo on same car F10, do you know if the turbo can be removed without removing the manifold. Thanks Alan
Hi Alan, so I never actually removed the turbo on my N57 like that (without other parts coming off) but I do think it should be possible. It will probably be done mostly from underneath so you’ll need it on ramps/axle stands, but I would undo everything on the top side first. There’s a few V-clamps, bolts & banjo bolts for the oil lines and then you just need to try wiggling it out between engine/suspension parts. Hopefully it can be done that way 👍
nice job! i have a question for you, i need to replace one of my pressure converters on my f11 535d, do you know where they are, and how to replace them?
I usually describe these as Boost Pressure Control Valves. You have 2 of them because your 535d is a twin turbo engine (unlike mine, with just one turbo & one Boost Pressure Control Valve). They are usually part of the turbocharger assembly - next to the exhaust manifold like in my video. Have a look at this link which shows your engine: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=MX72-EUR-03-2011-F11-BMW-535d&diagId=11_4436
Question! What's the age and mileage of your car? You always seem to be working on it and I'm considering a 530d touring but do they really need THAT much working on to keep going?!
No, they shouldn’t need too much work. Bear in mind that I bought the cheapest 530d which is also an ex-police car. It had 165k miles on the clock when I bought it & it’ll soon be at 180k. In terms of drivability it’s one of the best estate cars I’ve ever owned - so I wouldn’t let my videos put you off. You can probably treat my experience as “the worst it could possibly be...” 😂👍
@@Nut_Job. Ah thanks for your reply! I've been watching your videos, and they're really informative, I've been hankering after one but will be trying to get one under five years old and under 40,000 miles, so you feel that they're a good purchase? I've worked on my own cars for over a years but the BMW is still scaring me 😬
@@breach1702 Thank you. I did the cross pattern, with 13 Nm tightening. I changed also the DPF gasket, the banjo bolt and the EGR to exhaust manifold gasket. All well now, thank God. :D
@@Nut_Job. I ordered a special thread tapper with a long conic head for the first cut. Originally made for repairing oil sump threads. Will try to recut it with this instrument. Normal tapper didn´t work because it was impossible to get a first cut without predrilling the hole a little bit. Which is impossible because there is no space for using a drilling machine. If it is impossible to simply recut, i will try a helicoil oil drain plug thread repair kit with a step tapper. This step tapper should drill the old thread out and cut a new larger thread for the helicoil insert in one step, without needing a drilling machine. That is what the manufacturer says. I´m very curious if that will work in my case, don´t really want to change the whole manifold only due to this damn thread :-( Will report if it will be successful :-) I saw your other videos, incredible what you are able to do without a proper workshop and certificated special tools. Even replaced the timing chain, wow. Thumbs up. Mac Gyver could never have done this like you :-D
Good work 👍 I only really replaced the whole manifold because I found it pretty cheap on eBay... the job was more hassle than I expected tbh. Nothing compared to a full engine rebuild though
@@Nut_Job. Haha i can imagine that :-D Doing it on the F30 would be even more difficult because there is less space in the engine bay compared to the F10.
Great vid as always, been enjoying and learning from you for a while. Just a quick question I’m just about to change my f11 battery like for like, did you register your battery when you changed it? Thanks 😁
I actually didn’t bother. If I’d bought a slightly more expensive diagnostic tool (or persevered with installing ISTA) then I could have done it myself. I’m not particularly worried about it though - as I understand it, the point of ‘registering’ a new battery is just so the charge controller knows the battery is new & can deliver a slightly different charging rate. Hardly the end of the world IMO. I’m sure others will of course disagree... 😂
Thanks nut job, I was going to purchase a foxwell diagnostic tool to register it but have had same thoughts as you and think I’ll just put new one in and leave registering it- though I have been wanting reason to get one!Just wanted your opinion as you’ve changed yours. There will always be those who disagree and know better🤓 thanks for taking time to reply👍🏻
I must admit, I put off buying a decent diagnostic tool for ages but they are extremely useful if you are doing a few jobs on cars. My Autel tool has been very useful already 👍
I’ll check those out thanks, using lockdown to tackle jobs I’ve wanted to do for a while ,just replaced glow plugs, module and cleaned intake and ports-messy job!Keep up the good work and look forward to next instalment👍🏻
@@stuartparkinson5968 It's better at least for alternator to register a new battery, otherwise the alternator will provide as much power as it can and can damage the new battery during time. From my point of view these actions should be done just with ISTA and not with other tools.
Hello, could you please tell me which is the tightening torque for the manifold screws? I can't find this information and I have to install another exaust manifold. Thank you!
Good job, always reminds me of my days working on my e38. By the way what’s that RS logo under the speedometer? Just a couple of weeks ago I did the front brake discs and pads on my 530d as a very nasty judder while braking just kept increasing by the day. Febi discs for £70 each side and brembo pads. I tell you it’s really very satisfying after the work is completed rightly. Keep them videos coming.
The tag on the speedometer is it’s calibration certification number from when it was used as a police car. It’s satisfying to get a job done by yourself on a car isn’t it 👍
The thread had stripped in the cast iron manifold. Possibly could have re-tapped the hole but I just decided to swap for another one. It was causing an exhaust leak & couldn’t tighten the banjo bolt for the pressure sensor
Great job, thanks ! I would like to buy a 530d, can i ask you some questions and your feeling about this car ? (email etc...) Have a good day ! Maxime (from France :D)
Always blown away by the size of the jobs you take on in your drive, inspiring to watch!
I like to think there’s always a way to do almost anything at home 👍
I'm taking my DPF out this weekend to send it off to be professionally reconditioned. This video has really helped with that, thanks! Intake manifold and EGR from my N47N are also coming out to be cleaned!
All good things to do 👍
Love your videos, I live in Miami, Fl , and when I was in the US ARMY I never had the chance to visit London, or any other part of England, I don’t know or I am not sure why I dream about your country, is like the first love , never been there but I can’t get England out of my mind. And now with this pandemic it is even worst, who knows when are we gonna be able to return to our normal lives again so I can accomplish my dream and visit your beautiful country. Regards sir, Ralph Madera.
You all prolly dont care at all but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Marco Shepard instablaster :)
@Mekhi Mohammad Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Mekhi Mohammad It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my ass!
@Marco Shepard no problem :)
Decided to change the back pressure sensor pipe. Big mistake. That banjo strips 90 percent of the time. You can tap the tread, which again means removing the manifold though. So unless you have problems don't mess with it :-) On N47 engine you can do the job without touching the DPF, but it's a bit of a PITA. Thanks for the video!
Agreed 👍
Looks very familiar,replaced a turbo on 2010 730d few years go ,what a W⚓️ it was ,good video 👍
Love your vids NutJob, broke a circuit breaker on my 4WD the other day when cleaning engine bay so repair of that is my job this weekend.
Always impressed with your patience and calm head. Great video as always. Keep up the good work.
You should have seen me whilst trying to move the DPF back into position... it’s such an awkward place & I really struggled to move it into place! 😂
Lovely Jubbly, don't know much about diesel engines, but I think I'm a bit more educated on them now.
Next time when you have a stripped bolt, make a thread chaser to run down any stripped threads with some oil on the chaser. Saved me many times.
Totally agree now 👍
I had a similar case at N47 with that Banjo Bolt because of the rusty inner fillet, dificult to unscrew with some steps back and forth during using WD40.
Before to use another Banjo I cleaned the grooves of the fillet where were deposits of rust at the entrance.
The Banjo's material fillet is softer than the exhaust manifold and it destroys it during the banjo is being screwed.
Thanks for the explanations!
Do you have the part number for the n47 banjo bolt? I can't seem to find it
Nice job as usual. Although a bit of a pity that you haven`t got your new manifold machine skimmed on surface where it meets gaskets. It is known issue that those manifolds bend over time and leak exhaust gas on frontal cylinders. This would be "stay on safe side" addition.
Warm greetings from Poland.
Beautiful needed my fix of Nut Job during these corona times - more videos sir!
I really love your video,s . I admire your talent. if you can change timing chain on a BMW on your drive with basic tools....wow you are a master.Man
Thanks Ravi 👍
I have a 320d ED 61 plate with 82k miles . Do I need to change the timing chain now for the safe side now!
Well, since there’s no published service interval for the timing chain it’s totally up to you really. If it were me, I wouldn’t be changing any timing chain before 100k. Perhaps towards 120k is a reasonable time to get it done (my opinion only) 👍
Thank you so much. As we all are in lock down, I am doing the majority of the service on my car. Oil service/ Brake pads and disk change ect. I also wanted to do a coolant flush..I am not sure how to bleed the air out completely without starting the engine. Is there anyway I can manually activate the water pump without starting the engine.....? Please help me
Yes, you can start the electric pump bleeding process by doing the following: Turn on the ignition (but do not start the engine), turn the climate fan to the slowest speed. Set both A/C temperatures to the highest temp. Now press your foot all the way on to the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds. If you listen carefully you should hear the pump start going which will move all the air around/out of the system. This process goes on for some time (10-15 mins or something like that) so it’s a good idea to connect a battery charger if you have one. 👍
Hi
I change my manifold to and now I think I lost a gasket but it’s no were to find .
Now I wonder Is it a gasket between the egr coolant and the exhaust manifold or not ?
Did you found the part nr for that bolt? I can't seem to find it anywhere. if you have it please me know. thx
If this happens to anyone else you can re thread it with the manifold still attached. My pipe was leaking and when I cracked the bolt I knew it would be agro, exactly the same thing happened. Its more there's crap in there rather than the thread is stripped. M12 x 1.5 tap and 30 minutes later the new bolt will go in there. Easy job
Wish I’d tried it that way 😂
I'd still rather remove the manifold to prevent metal going into the turbine
Is it m10 x1.5 or m12x1.75 as all the set i have found online , none of them have m12x1.5 just m12x.175
To add to this, wear thick gloves and run the engine why tapping it. It blows any swarf straight back out.. Gloves are essential as it gets hot very quickly these are exhaust gasses! Its sometimes easier than undoing the turbo especially if its bolted on and not on a quick connect ring
Hi
I recently purchased a 5 series 2011 and I have a question please and was hoping you can help
The light incide the car i.e dashboard very dim and I have no idea how to change the light incide.
Please can you shed some light and let me know to sort it out
Cheers
Hi just watched the manifold vid I need to refurb my turbo on same car F10, do you know if the turbo can be removed without removing the manifold. Thanks Alan
Hi Alan, so I never actually removed the turbo on my N57 like that (without other parts coming off) but I do think it should be possible. It will probably be done mostly from underneath so you’ll need it on ramps/axle stands, but I would undo everything on the top side first. There’s a few V-clamps, bolts & banjo bolts for the oil lines and then you just need to try wiggling it out between engine/suspension parts. Hopefully it can be done that way 👍
nice job! i have a question for you, i need to replace one of my pressure converters on my f11 535d, do you know where they are, and how to replace them?
I usually describe these as Boost Pressure Control Valves. You have 2 of them because your 535d is a twin turbo engine (unlike mine, with just one turbo & one Boost Pressure Control Valve). They are usually part of the turbocharger assembly - next to the exhaust manifold like in my video. Have a look at this link which shows your engine: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=MX72-EUR-03-2011-F11-BMW-535d&diagId=11_4436
Thank you i will have a look, btw i really enjoy your videos :)
Thanks & good luck 👍
Question! What's the age and mileage of your car? You always seem to be working on it and I'm considering a 530d touring but do they really need THAT much working on to keep going?!
No, they shouldn’t need too much work. Bear in mind that I bought the cheapest 530d which is also an ex-police car. It had 165k miles on the clock when I bought it & it’ll soon be at 180k. In terms of drivability it’s one of the best estate cars I’ve ever owned - so I wouldn’t let my videos put you off. You can probably treat my experience as “the worst it could possibly be...” 😂👍
@@Nut_Job. Ah thanks for your reply! I've been watching your videos, and they're really informative, I've been hankering after one but will be trying to get one under five years old and under 40,000 miles, so you feel that they're a good purchase? I've worked on my own cars for over a years but the BMW is still scaring me 😬
@@Nut_Job. over 35 years I meant sorry
If I can do it, I reckon you’ll be fine mate. I didn’t know anything about BMWs before I bought this 👍
Is there a tightening sequence for the exhaust manifold to engine nuts?
Not really, but you should go in a cross until they all click at the set torque (13 Nm in my case).
@@breach1702 Thank you. I did the cross pattern, with 13 Nm tightening. I changed also the DPF gasket, the banjo bolt and the EGR to exhaust manifold gasket. All well now, thank God. :D
Great video what material is manifold made off and is it possible to weld it if cracked ?
It’s cast iron. I’ve not welded cast iron before but I’ve seen others do it.
Have the same problem here on my F30 330d :-/ Wouldn´t it be possible to recut the thread or repair it with a thread insert?
I did try, but it’s the high heat that’s the problem. I tried using exhaust sealing paste too, but it didn’t last long unfortunately
@@Nut_Job. I ordered a special thread tapper with a long conic head for the first cut. Originally made for repairing oil sump threads. Will try to recut it with this instrument.
Normal tapper didn´t work because it was impossible to get a first cut without predrilling the hole a little bit. Which is impossible because there is no space for using a drilling machine.
If it is impossible to simply recut, i will try a helicoil oil drain plug thread repair kit with a step tapper.
This step tapper should drill the old thread out and cut a new larger thread for the helicoil insert in one step, without needing a drilling machine. That is what the manufacturer says.
I´m very curious if that will work in my case, don´t really want to change the whole manifold only due to this damn thread :-(
Will report if it will be successful :-)
I saw your other videos, incredible what you are able to do without a proper workshop and certificated special tools. Even replaced the timing chain, wow. Thumbs up. Mac Gyver could never have done this like you :-D
Good work 👍
I only really replaced the whole manifold because I found it pretty cheap on eBay... the job was more hassle than I expected tbh.
Nothing compared to a full engine rebuild though
@@Nut_Job. Haha i can imagine that :-D Doing it on the F30 would be even more difficult because there is less space in the engine bay compared to the F10.
Very true 😬
Looks like a big thread so not sure if you would have had a tap for that bu maybe a chase through would have sorted the thread. Good job.
Great vid as always, been enjoying and learning from you for a while. Just a quick question I’m just about to change my f11 battery like for like, did you register your battery when you changed it? Thanks 😁
I actually didn’t bother. If I’d bought a slightly more expensive diagnostic tool (or persevered with installing ISTA) then I could have done it myself. I’m not particularly worried about it though - as I understand it, the point of ‘registering’ a new battery is just so the charge controller knows the battery is new & can deliver a slightly different charging rate. Hardly the end of the world IMO. I’m sure others will of course disagree... 😂
Thanks nut job, I was going to purchase a foxwell diagnostic tool to register it but have had same thoughts as you and think I’ll just put new one in and leave registering it- though I have been wanting reason to get one!Just wanted your opinion as you’ve changed yours. There will always be those who disagree and know better🤓 thanks for taking time to reply👍🏻
I must admit, I put off buying a decent diagnostic tool for ages but they are extremely useful if you are doing a few jobs on cars. My Autel tool has been very useful already 👍
I’ll check those out thanks, using lockdown to tackle jobs I’ve wanted to do for a while ,just replaced glow plugs, module and cleaned intake and ports-messy job!Keep up the good work and look forward to next instalment👍🏻
@@stuartparkinson5968 It's better at least for alternator to register a new battery, otherwise the alternator will provide as much power as it can and can damage the new battery during time.
From my point of view these actions should be done just with ISTA and not with other tools.
Hello, could you please tell me which is the tightening torque for the manifold screws? I can't find this information and I have to install another exaust manifold. Thank you!
25nm for the studs
Good job, always reminds me of my days working on my e38. By the way what’s that RS logo under the speedometer? Just a couple of weeks ago I did the front brake discs and pads on my 530d as a very nasty judder while braking just kept increasing by the day. Febi discs for £70 each side and brembo pads. I tell you it’s really very satisfying after the work is completed rightly. Keep them videos coming.
The tag on the speedometer is it’s calibration certification number from when it was used as a police car. It’s satisfying to get a job done by yourself on a car isn’t it 👍
@@Nut_Job. Indeed, going to do the same job as you did on my f31 330d. Crack in the manifold just over the mount to the turbo.
Do you know why the DPF housing was under so much tension? Did it jump out the holder at first when you loosened the screw?
It didn’t ‘pop’ out exactly, but it was squeezed into place against the turbo which made it really tough to get back aligned
hello I did not understand why you change the manifold? leaking exhaust gas from the thread?
The thread had stripped in the cast iron manifold. Possibly could have re-tapped the hole but I just decided to swap for another one. It was causing an exhaust leak & couldn’t tighten the banjo bolt for the pressure sensor
Good work dude 👍
Great job and video as per usual. Hows the Range Rover?
Running perfectly so far 👍
Would be easy to take out the DPF for cleaning, gutting or deleting (with a downpipe) at the same time 🙃
Hi tell me terogly if you are away from london i need your help with a big problem
Good job 👍
Lol i broke mine nd other half is stuck inside flash dont know how to get it out😂
Great job, thanks !
I would like to buy a 530d, can i ask you some questions and your feeling about this car ? (email etc...)
Have a good day !
Maxime (from France :D)
Yes, my email is nutjob882@gmail.com
@@Nut_Job. Email sent ;)