Working on one in the morning, but im a car mechanic by trade. Your video really gave me more insight into the inner workings of a carbed four wheeler! Thank you
Me and my dad brought the Carburetor to get tuned up! Kept the original Honda parts, and it's running smoothly! Thanks for the video! It helped A LOT!!! God Bless!
Awesome!!! Great to hear. Yeah I fired mine up the other day after sitting for the past 4 months. Started like a dream and runs great. I try not to let it sit too long with that ethanol gas in the system. That stuff is just no good for those small carbs.
I've had my bike for 22 years and I never knew that's where the carb was. For some reason I was under the impression it was hidden under a panel or something. I'm planning to do my own maintenance on it for once, since I' started learning about and building bikes over the last year. I'm thinking of doing a restoration, which really just means: Changing the oil, touching up a spot or two of faded paint on the frame, and taking a heatgun to the body since it faded from red to pink in the Florida sun when I left it at my mom's house when I moved out 10 years ago. Only mechanical issue I've found is that if I run at full speed for an extended period (a couple miles) the bike just dies entirely and won't start for about 5-10 minutes. Never have figured that out, but I know the carb has been mostly clean as a friend of mine rebuilt it for me a few years ago.
Cool, when changing the oil make sure you get oil for an ATV or Motorcycle. It has to be the kind made for the internal clutch. Standard motor oil will create shifting issues. Also the problem you described sounds like an electrical component issue. Like it is getting hot and has to cool down before it will work again. I don't think it is fuel related, but I can't be for sure on that. Good luck with it and have fun too.
I have pulled almost pulled the carb but I didn’t have a small rench for the bolts that mount it to the head so I had to go find find 1 and when I did I lossend 1 bolt and the wrench fell and I can’t get it but the vid is very helpful I almost tried doing taking the carb bottem and cleaning it but I couldn’t get it so I looked it up and autually I was completely wrong with how to desasble it
I'm hoping that you can get another wrench to either finish taking the carb off or at least tighten that one bolt back up. It is a tight spot to work in for sure.
My brother-in-law swapped out my carb and I came here to figure out what the bottom hose (overflow tube) was that isn't connected since it's leaking fuel out. Even though I'm not replacing the brand new carb, I at least know why that tube is not connected. Looks like I either have a stuck float or something else causing fuel to pour out of the overflow tube.
I'd start with checking the screw just above where the hose connects to make sure it is closed off completely. That will stop the leaking. Let it sit for a wile with the fuel in the on position, but the cover to the air intake box off and the air filter removed. What you're looking for is if fuel starts flowing out of the carb and into the filter box. If it is then you have an issue. If no fuel is coming out then you should be good to go.
Thanks for sharing! 👍 this video is very helpful, I'm about to do the same thing to my recon. Did you have to take the actual carburetor apart to clean it or can you clean it out without taking it apart
For when it will not idle, I had to take it apart and replace the slow jet. To be honest, if I didn't need the slow jet I would not have needed a rebuild kit. You can take it apart and clean it and put it back together as most seals are rubber o-ring type and are not crushed or broken. I also have a video on rebuilding the carb that shows the break down and putting it back together.
big question the air hose that comes from the front of the bike to the carb dose this come from the cap of the fuel tank x please help been wondering for hours, as my cap has no hose in it and the pair one coming out the car just dangling
The hose on the cap of the fuel tank is just a breather hose. Mine goes up to the center of the handle bars and down the center pipe. It is just to allow the tank to breath like a vent on a gas can. The hose that comes off the carb and goes to the front is also an air inlet tube. It is designed to allow fresh air into the carb. It too is open ended and stops just in front of the handle bars.
Stock hoses from the auto parts place work. I don't recall the size (inside diameter) ID, but take one off and take it with you to get the correct hose size. There may be a hose kit available, but I'm not aware of one.
Actually no. When I rebuild a carb, I turn the screw all the way in counting the turns so that I can re-set it to the same spot. With a new carb I will check it based on the old carb's setting, but normally they come from the factory already close. I actually have to adjust the idle more so than I do the air/fuel screw. I wish I could tell you more on how to adjust it, but can't recall the details at the moment. However, I've seen a couple of videos specifically on adjusting the air/fuel screw and they were pretty straight forward with the information.
The piece on top of the carb that the throttle cable runs through that screws on whats that called? Or hoe do you remove it? Got a new carb but that’s different so i gotta change it.
We'll just refer to that as the Throttle Cable Cap. On mine there is a rubber piece that you can work off and slide up onto the cable elbow. From what I remember there is a retaining spring in there that you have to remove. Once this is removed the cable should slide out. I also recall this was very difficult to remove as I likely do not have the proper tool for it but it will come off. On another instance I just used the old cap on a new carb. You just have to make sure that the jet needle is adjusted properly so that it sits in the just correctly. It has adjustments near the top by where the clip is positioned on it. I sure hope some of this helps.
You may be able to get a container and just unhook the hose from the carb and let the fuel run into the container. that is if your shut off valve does not work.
This is a 2002 but the carbs should be the same. I looked through the Amazon carbs for the 2001 Honda and this one looks to be the closest without actually being a genuine Honda parts carb: www.amazon.com/MOTOKU-Carburetor-TRX250TE-Sportrax-1997-2014/dp/B07T95Z66X/ref=sr_1_7?crid=256T6RU8T4YTS&dchild=1&keywords=2001+honda+recon+carburetor+oem&qid=1628038065&sprefix=2001+honda+recon+carb%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-7 I hope this helps.
Here is one more that looks like a good one: www.amazon.com/Auto-Moto-Carburetor-TRX250-TRX250TE-TRX250TM/dp/B06XWM87W3/ref=psdc_404758011_t2_B07T95Z66X
I'd replace it. If it got stuck prior to removal and pitting then the quickest and easiest way to correct it is to get a new cable and replace it. Throttle cables are not very expensive. Now I have seen people work on them and lube them to getting them working again.
That's the Throttle Cable Cap. On mine there is a rubber piece that you can work off and slide up onto the cable elbow. Also on mine there is a retaining spring in there that you have to remove. It is very difficult to remove and would be easier to just buy a new cable in my opinion. Once this spring clip is removed the cable should slide out. I likely do not have the proper tool for removing it, but it will come off with a lot of work. On another instance I just used the old cap on a new carb. You just have to make sure that the jet needle is adjusted properly so that it sits in the jet correctly. It has adjustments near the top by where the E clip is positioned on it. I hope some of this helps.
Hello there....may i know the size of its jettings?what rebuild kit will do to it?can i put the jettings of honda cg 150?..can you gave us a review about that recon carb and its function?....i guess that pz 27d carb were also same as honda xr 200/xlr 200/crf 150f/l (old models)....thank you
For a stock Honda recon the Main jet size is a #95 and the idle or slow jet size is a #38. If you are rebuilding a specific carb that came on a specific quad or cycle that model is what you use for looking up the rebuild kit. The jetting for a CG150 or CG125 will not be the same and likely not close to what is in the Recon 250. A lot effects the jet size too. By opening up the intake like the snorkel it will cause the machine to run lean and a larger main jet will be required. You could go to a 100 or a 102 but it is really guess work when unless you have some specific air flow information and guidelines. The carbs for the older Honda's were similar, but not identical and the jet size was very likely different too based on the engine size and the intake.
@@cervus-venator i see...i thought that recon carb was also same as honda xr 200/xlr 200/crf 150 f/l carb or known as pz 27d?..i wanted to know too how and what was the function and purpose of the pump on the top of carburetor?...thank you for the info,be safe,heavy chill
The one in the rebuild video is the new one from the Honda parts box. The pilot valve got clogged and it would not idle so I rebuilt the original carb that came on the 4 wheeler and it runs great. Then I decided to make a video where I rebuilt the new genuine Honda parts carb. I'm keeping it to the side for when I get another carb issue. I actually have three of these carbs. The original, the cheap $15 carb (I rebuilt it too) and the Honda genuine parts carb.
Also, I've found that the biggest issue with these small engine carbs is the pilot jet (also know as the slow jet or the idle jet) gets clogged with varnish or other gas residue. It's because the opening is so small it doesn't take much to clog it. If the 4 wheeler starts, but will not idle that's the issue.
@@cervus-venator Doesn’t it just frost your leticibles when a new part out of the box doesn’t work? It’s like a sharp stick in the eye! Oooh! I hate it when that happens!!!
I have some (cheap ones I got at tractor supply) but I don't know if they would fit in that tight spot. But overall, yes as this would certainly be an improvement in pulling the carb or mounting it.
@@cervus-venator The owner said they were parked about 10 y/a with gas inside. He said, it’s probably evaporated by now! He doesn’t understand what a mess he has likely created! Thought I would mention, when I work in tight spots, I’ll often hold the fastener in place with a telescopic magnet, while I find the threads. My biggest challenge is getting enough light!
The only reason I know of is if the screw in the bowl just above it has not seated fully allowing gas to go by and leak out of the bowl. Try tighting it first to see if the gas stops leaking out. If it doesn't then turn your fuel off, get a cup you can drain the carb gas into and unscrew the valve completely. There should be a spring on the screw so watch for it. Inspect the screw end to make sure it isn't damaged and wipe clean. Spray some carb cleaner in the hole to clean out any trash and then re-install the screw fully to seat it and close off the drain valve. I hope this helps.
Jake, I just looked at the diagram and this screw/valve should have an o-ring on it. Make sure that is in place as it helps seal it. (this mainly keeps gas from leaking out and around the threads of the screw.) It did NOT indicate that there is a spring on this valve screw as I mentioned previously.
Nope it slid right in when needed. Putting that pin in was a pain. Two of them flew out of the needle nose pliers to go up under the tank. That's where they'll stay. I had bought some of these retaining pins off of Amazon so I have plenty to replace the missing ones.
Jason is this a new carb? because it sounds like the slow idle jet (smaller of the two jets) is clogged. Another thought is the jet needle in the throttle valve may not be set correctly. Normally if it will fire up and run, but not idle it is a clogged idle jet. This would be odd on a new carb if indeed that is what you put in.
@@jason77821 It still sounds like the idle jet is clogged. If there was any trash or particles in your tank or fuel line it can quickly clog this tiny jet opening. What I did on my last carb change was install an inline fuel filter. I got a small one for a riding lawn mower. It works great. You can take that bowl off and access the idel jet if you want to see if that is the issue. It will come out easily for the replacement or cleaning. I tried cleaning mine in an ultra sonic cleaner, but I still couldn't see light through it so I replaced it. I keep a couple of rebuild kits on hand and they have these jets in them. I'm thinking if yours got clogged on the original start up then it will not be difficult getting it cleaned up.
Working on one in the morning, but im a car mechanic by trade. Your video really gave me more insight into the inner workings of a carbed four wheeler! Thank you
Thanks, I'm glad it helped.
Me and my dad brought the Carburetor to get tuned up! Kept the original Honda parts, and it's running smoothly! Thanks for the video! It helped A LOT!!! God Bless!
That is awesome!
Great video. I had my throttle cable on backwards and your description helped me get it back together right.
Cool Jerry, I'm glad it helped you out.
how do you know if its on backwards?
Awesome video got my peach running like a charm
Awesome!!! Great to hear. Yeah I fired mine up the other day after sitting for the past 4 months. Started like a dream and runs great. I try not to let it sit too long with that ethanol gas in the system. That stuff is just no good for those small carbs.
I don’t have one of those, but I’ll give you a view, like, and comment! Always good to see you, my friend!
Thanks Bruce. Much appreciated. I do have some shooting vids too if you'd think that's more your thing. I appreciate you coming by.
@@cervus-venator I’ll get around to watching them all, my friend.
awesome video, i appreciate you brother 🙏🏼
Any time. I figured I'd share my experiences with this sine I could not find a video way back when I was first doing this.
Great video! Details on point! Thanks
Thanks Tony and I hope it was helpful to you!
Cervus good video buddy be safe out there eating and GOD BLESS y’all iAmen
Thanks, you too! Glad you enjoyed the video.
I've had my bike for 22 years and I never knew that's where the carb was. For some reason I was under the impression it was hidden under a panel or something. I'm planning to do my own maintenance on it for once, since I' started learning about and building bikes over the last year. I'm thinking of doing a restoration, which really just means: Changing the oil, touching up a spot or two of faded paint on the frame, and taking a heatgun to the body since it faded from red to pink in the Florida sun when I left it at my mom's house when I moved out 10 years ago.
Only mechanical issue I've found is that if I run at full speed for an extended period (a couple miles) the bike just dies entirely and won't start for about 5-10 minutes. Never have figured that out, but I know the carb has been mostly clean as a friend of mine rebuilt it for me a few years ago.
Cool, when changing the oil make sure you get oil for an ATV or Motorcycle. It has to be the kind made for the internal clutch. Standard motor oil will create shifting issues. Also the problem you described sounds like an electrical component issue. Like it is getting hot and has to cool down before it will work again. I don't think it is fuel related, but I can't be for sure on that. Good luck with it and have fun too.
I have pulled almost pulled the carb but I didn’t have a small rench for the bolts that mount it to the head so I had to go find find 1 and when I did I lossend 1 bolt and the wrench fell and I can’t get it but the vid is very helpful I almost tried doing taking the carb bottem and cleaning it but I couldn’t get it so I looked it up and autually I was completely wrong with how to desasble it
I'm hoping that you can get another wrench to either finish taking the carb off or at least tighten that one bolt back up. It is a tight spot to work in for sure.
very helpful, thanks
Glad it helped!
My brother-in-law swapped out my carb and I came here to figure out what the bottom hose (overflow tube) was that isn't connected since it's leaking fuel out. Even though I'm not replacing the brand new carb, I at least know why that tube is not connected. Looks like I either have a stuck float or something else causing fuel to pour out of the overflow tube.
I'd start with checking the screw just above where the hose connects to make sure it is closed off completely. That will stop the leaking. Let it sit for a wile with the fuel in the on position, but the cover to the air intake box off and the air filter removed. What you're looking for is if fuel starts flowing out of the carb and into the filter box. If it is then you have an issue. If no fuel is coming out then you should be good to go.
Thank you!!!
Thanks, I hope it helped you out.
Thanks for sharing! 👍 this video is very helpful, I'm about to do the same thing to my recon. Did you have to take the actual carburetor apart to clean it or can you clean it out without taking it apart
For when it will not idle, I had to take it apart and replace the slow jet. To be honest, if I didn't need the slow jet I would not have needed a rebuild kit. You can take it apart and clean it and put it back together as most seals are rubber o-ring type and are not crushed or broken. I also have a video on rebuilding the carb that shows the break down and putting it back together.
@@cervus-venator awesome thank you!
Thank you!!! Good video
Thanks, I hope it helps.
big question the air hose that comes from the front of the bike to the carb dose this come from the cap of the fuel tank x please help been wondering for hours, as my cap has no hose in it and the pair one coming out the car just dangling
The hose on the cap of the fuel tank is just a breather hose. Mine goes up to the center of the handle bars and down the center pipe. It is just to allow the tank to breath like a vent on a gas can. The hose that comes off the carb and goes to the front is also an air inlet tube. It is designed to allow fresh air into the carb. It too is open ended and stops just in front of the handle bars.
The carb fuel hoses need replaced. Is there a kit for new hoses or can I replace them with stock fuel hoses? Thank you.
Stock hoses from the auto parts place work. I don't recall the size (inside diameter) ID, but take one off and take it with you to get the correct hose size. There may be a hose kit available, but I'm not aware of one.
I appreciate your response. Thank you
Did u have 2 adjust the air/fuel mixture screw after installation?
Actually no. When I rebuild a carb, I turn the screw all the way in counting the turns so that I can re-set it to the same spot. With a new carb I will check it based on the old carb's setting, but normally they come from the factory already close. I actually have to adjust the idle more so than I do the air/fuel screw. I wish I could tell you more on how to adjust it, but can't recall the details at the moment. However, I've seen a couple of videos specifically on adjusting the air/fuel screw and they were pretty straight forward with the information.
The piece on top of the carb that the throttle cable runs through that screws on whats that called? Or hoe do you remove it? Got a new carb but that’s different so i gotta change it.
We'll just refer to that as the Throttle Cable Cap. On mine there is a rubber piece that you can work off and slide up onto the cable elbow. From what I remember there is a retaining spring in there that you have to remove. Once this is removed the cable should slide out. I also recall this was very difficult to remove as I likely do not have the proper tool for it but it will come off. On another instance I just used the old cap on a new carb. You just have to make sure that the jet needle is adjusted properly so that it sits in the just correctly. It has adjustments near the top by where the clip is positioned on it. I sure hope some of this helps.
Do I need to run my fuel empty before changing the carb or can I do it with like half a tank?
Ok never mind lol I just got to that part of the video but I don’t think my fuel shut off works so I’ll run it empty. Thank you for the video!
You may be able to get a container and just unhook the hose from the carb and let the fuel run into the container. that is if your shut off valve does not work.
Thanks for this! What year is this bike? I have a 2001, looks the same. I’m curious if there is a carb on Amazon that fits…cheers!
This is a 2002 but the carbs should be the same. I looked through the Amazon carbs for the 2001 Honda and this one looks to be the closest without actually being a genuine Honda parts carb: www.amazon.com/MOTOKU-Carburetor-TRX250TE-Sportrax-1997-2014/dp/B07T95Z66X/ref=sr_1_7?crid=256T6RU8T4YTS&dchild=1&keywords=2001+honda+recon+carburetor+oem&qid=1628038065&sprefix=2001+honda+recon+carb%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-7
I hope this helps.
Here is one more that looks like a good one:
www.amazon.com/Auto-Moto-Carburetor-TRX250-TRX250TE-TRX250TM/dp/B06XWM87W3/ref=psdc_404758011_t2_B07T95Z66X
Those Amazon Carbs suck. I’ve had nothing but problems with those. I would recommend just buying original Honda parts.
My throttle slide stuck and I pitted it while removing it. Should I replace it or can I smooth it with something like emery cloth?
I'd replace it. If it got stuck prior to removal and pitting then the quickest and easiest way to correct it is to get a new cable and replace it. Throttle cables are not very expensive. Now I have seen people work on them and lube them to getting them working again.
It is the slide that goes into the top of the carb I'm talking about.
@@timmarks5314 If you can smooth it out it should work fine. It is used to lift the needle out of the main jet to all more gas into the bowl.
@@cervus-venator That is really good news. Thank you again.
My 2007 is has the same carb as your 2002 I think is what you said
I think that is correct in that the 02 and 07 have the same carbs.
How do you replace the top part that screws in that's attached to the needle?
That's the Throttle Cable Cap. On mine there is a rubber piece that you can work off and slide up onto the cable elbow. Also on mine there is a retaining spring in there that you have to remove. It is very difficult to remove and would be easier to just buy a new cable in my opinion. Once this spring clip is removed the cable should slide out. I likely do not have the proper tool for removing it, but it will come off with a lot of work. On another instance I just used the old cap on a new carb. You just have to make sure that the jet needle is adjusted properly so that it sits in the jet correctly. It has adjustments near the top by where the E clip is positioned on it. I hope some of this helps.
Hello there....may i know the size of its jettings?what rebuild kit will do to it?can i put the jettings of honda cg 150?..can you gave us a review about that recon carb and its function?....i guess that pz 27d carb were also same as honda xr 200/xlr 200/crf 150f/l (old models)....thank you
For a stock Honda recon the Main jet size is a #95 and the idle or slow jet size is a #38. If you are rebuilding a specific carb that came on a specific quad or cycle that model is what you use for looking up the rebuild kit. The jetting for a CG150 or CG125 will not be the same and likely not close to what is in the Recon 250. A lot effects the jet size too. By opening up the intake like the snorkel it will cause the machine to run lean and a larger main jet will be required. You could go to a 100 or a 102 but it is really guess work when unless you have some specific air flow information and guidelines. The carbs for the older Honda's were similar, but not identical and the jet size was very likely different too based on the engine size and the intake.
@@cervus-venator i see...i thought that recon carb was also same as honda xr 200/xlr 200/crf 150 f/l carb or known as pz 27d?..i wanted to know too how and what was the function and purpose of the pump on the top of carburetor?...thank you for the info,be safe,heavy chill
Is this the same carb you rebuilt about a month ago or a different one? What about the new one you have?
The one in the rebuild video is the new one from the Honda parts box. The pilot valve got clogged and it would not idle so I rebuilt the original carb that came on the 4 wheeler and it runs great. Then I decided to make a video where I rebuilt the new genuine Honda parts carb. I'm keeping it to the side for when I get another carb issue. I actually have three of these carbs. The original, the cheap $15 carb (I rebuilt it too) and the Honda genuine parts carb.
Also, I've found that the biggest issue with these small engine carbs is the pilot jet (also know as the slow jet or the idle jet) gets clogged with varnish or other gas residue. It's because the opening is so small it doesn't take much to clog it. If the 4 wheeler starts, but will not idle that's the issue.
@@cervus-venator Doesn’t it just frost your leticibles when a new part out of the box doesn’t work? It’s like a sharp stick in the eye! Oooh! I hate it when that happens!!!
Definitely need a set of ratchet wrenches!
I have some (cheap ones I got at tractor supply) but I don't know if they would fit in that tight spot. But overall, yes as this would certainly be an improvement in pulling the carb or mounting it.
@@cervus-venator
I have two similar machines coming to the shop this week.
I hope I can use the RWs.
Thanks for the video, very helpful!
@@jimyeske8498 Hopefully so and it will make it a quicker remove and install for you for sure.
@@cervus-venator
The owner said they were parked about 10 y/a with gas inside. He said, it’s probably evaporated by now! He doesn’t understand what a mess he has likely created!
Thought I would mention, when I work in tight spots, I’ll often hold the fastener in place with a telescopic magnet, while I find the threads. My biggest challenge is getting enough light!
@@cervus-venator
Your video helped a lot! You were right, ratchet wrench didn’t work. The carb was a huge mess but I have the quad running great now.
Where did you get your filter?
If referring to the in-line gas filter I picked it up at an Auto Zone. If referring to the Air Filter it is a K&N and I got it off of Amazon.
The line off the bottom of the bowl why would it be leaking
The only reason I know of is if the screw in the bowl just above it has not seated fully allowing gas to go by and leak out of the bowl. Try tighting it first to see if the gas stops leaking out. If it doesn't then turn your fuel off, get a cup you can drain the carb gas into and unscrew the valve completely. There should be a spring on the screw so watch for it. Inspect the screw end to make sure it isn't damaged and wipe clean. Spray some carb cleaner in the hole to clean out any trash and then re-install the screw fully to seat it and close off the drain valve. I hope this helps.
Jake, I just looked at the diagram and this screw/valve should have an o-ring on it. Make sure that is in place as it helps seal it. (this mainly keeps gas from leaking out and around the threads of the screw.) It did NOT indicate that there is a spring on this valve screw as I mentioned previously.
Your wedge wasn’t too thick after all.
Nope it slid right in when needed. Putting that pin in was a pain. Two of them flew out of the needle nose pliers to go up under the tank. That's where they'll stay. I had bought some of these retaining pins off of Amazon so I have plenty to replace the missing ones.
Harbor Freight retainer clip tool...
Awesome Johnny! I knew there was one out there somewhere. Next time I'm in there I'll certainly look for it.
I just replaced mine and all i get when i fire it up is really high revs it wont idle
Jason is this a new carb? because it sounds like the slow idle jet (smaller of the two jets) is clogged. Another thought is the jet needle in the throttle valve may not be set correctly. Normally if it will fire up and run, but not idle it is a clogged idle jet. This would be odd on a new carb if indeed that is what you put in.
@@cervus-venator it is a new carb I got from honda the slide only goes one way so I'm stumped
@@jason77821 It still sounds like the idle jet is clogged. If there was any trash or particles in your tank or fuel line it can quickly clog this tiny jet opening. What I did on my last carb change was install an inline fuel filter. I got a small one for a riding lawn mower. It works great. You can take that bowl off and access the idel jet if you want to see if that is the issue. It will come out easily for the replacement or cleaning. I tried cleaning mine in an ultra sonic cleaner, but I still couldn't see light through it so I replaced it. I keep a couple of rebuild kits on hand and they have these jets in them. I'm thinking if yours got clogged on the original start up then it will not be difficult getting it cleaned up.
You can adjust the idle with a flathead screwdriver and play with the idle jet