i got a Flashforge flexible filament from my dad i used the recommended settings for speed and heat but it printed blobs instead of nice lines And i cant find any information on the filaments material it doesnt say what it is, maybe its tpu maybe if flex-pla who knows? not the manufacturer!
I am using a Pulse printer with Soft PLA but the part keeps pulling or curling up when printing. Standard PLA works fine. What should I change first. Info: Pulse printer Soft PLA 1.73mm Heated Flex Plate bed Elmer’s purple glue stick Hot head temp 220 Bed temp 65 Layer .3 coarse Fill 10% light
I just printed TPU 95 A for the first time, and it is soft, flexible, and feels like rubber. The brand I used is Inland TPU in translucent green. What are you using the material for?
@@mastermachetier5594 Nozzle Temp 235°C, Bed Temp 65°C, glass bed w/Elmer's washable glue stick (the kind that goes on purple but dries clear). Alternative bed adhesion: Stuck too well to bare painters tape, use the glue stick on top the tape for release agent. Printer is cr10s. Edit: Flow Rate in Cura is 120 and feed rate on the printer is 120 (not sure if this was necessary or due to the fact I had a partial clog in the bowden tube right at the hotend that I diagnosed/discovered right after my TPU prints)
"PLA, ABS, or Nylon" It's 2021 yo. PETG should definitely come to mind before ABS these days. Edit: I actually retract this statement. ABS has some clear advantages over PETG in pretty much all scenarios other than chemical resistance. With printers becoming better, I think ABS has more potential to be more widely used.
printed a lot of PETG and while it has it's advantages (and disadvantages like oozing and getting Z offset high enough and nickel plated nozzle), it still fails short to ABS in terms of temperature level it can take before melting. ABS or even better, ASA are 20 °C more temperature resistant (70 °C for PETG, 90 °C for ABS/ASA). That's a lot. Of course, if you want much higher temperature and strike resistance, CF Nylon is a way to go. Well, except for price.
@@Joe_Yacketori it really depends on the brand of filament. Yes, ABS is ideally printed in the chamber, but the one I use from Devil Design (poland), ABS+ is really good and prints easily even on open printer. Sticks like crazy to the glass (using ABS slurry, but seems like I don't need it). No warping, no cracking. I printed even bigger parts, taller parts and layer adhesion is great. Sure, for tall narrow objects it's good idea to use Draft shield to keep heat in the area of printed object, but otherwise it's great. I would not trust to cheap ABS from chinese companies in terms of quality and printability. Nero3d has a great set of tutorials on how to print ABS - I strongly suggest to watch it. With right settings I was absolutely amazed how easily it printed. Yes, there is 100 % chance that I would be bitching on ABS if I would use other filaments but with DD brand I'm very happy. Since I print only functional parts I basically don't order PLA anymore. Will print the rest of PETG I have and done, will use only ABS+ and CF Nylon (for really serious stuff) from Innovatefil or Treed filaments (it's Luvacom german material as a source in both cases). Biggest advantage of this ABS? Due to it's lower volume weight ratio you get a LOT more of it in 1 kg spool. And spool costs about the same as PLA and is cheaper than PETG :)
The sticky part is what contacts the bed so the not sticky side is what the filament sticks to it might sound weird to have the less sticky side or the side that you print on but almost all filaments stick well to the paper like coating of the painters tape
bad idea bcz all this channel does is point out the good things as they want you to buy one from them, none of their stuff is a reveiw, all advertisements
Useless I'm afraid.. because the filament is flexible.. There is no way to accurately calculate the spacing between the support and dense layers. So the support material literally just becomes part of the model
I have a E3d hemera that can print anything but TPU!!!, when I go to extrude it my extruded just clicks and doesn’t feed the filament through to the hot end. I’ve tried everything and can’t get it to print, does anyone have any tips for getting it to at least extrude out of my nozzles ?
Bowden setups are not good for printing flexibles. You'll have to print at very slow speeds like 20mm/sec and retraction turned off and you may still have problems
I have good success printing sainsmart tpu on my stock ender 3. That filament is pretty stiff for tpu so that helps. I print at 210c and speed can vary depending on what I'm printing. If its a basic near solid object I do 40mm/s if its intricate with lots of opportunity for stringing I run between 15-20mm/s
i guess im asking randomly but does someone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly forgot the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Wesson Shepherd i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Be the first to do a video on the hermera, for flexibles. Or any material for that matter. Stuff all videos about this thing except for the e3d shills doin the reveiws.
This video is golden information even a year later 🔥🔥
i got a Flashforge flexible filament from my dad
i used the recommended settings for speed and heat but it printed blobs instead of nice lines
And i cant find any information on the filaments material it doesnt say what it is, maybe its tpu maybe if flex-pla who knows? not the manufacturer!
That index thing was GREAT 👍🏻.
Where can I find the STL for the sole used on the picture for the video?
Could I intstall the hemera in a vyper?
I have a SV06 and TPU keeps tangling in the gears... Can I upgrade the extruder on it for something more reliable?
What filament would you recommend for jigs used in woodworking machines?
Petg or abs
I am using a Pulse printer with Soft PLA but the part keeps pulling or curling up when printing. Standard PLA works fine. What should I change first.
Info:
Pulse printer
Soft PLA 1.73mm
Heated Flex Plate bed
Elmer’s purple glue stick
Hot head temp 220
Bed temp 65
Layer .3 coarse
Fill 10% light
I was having issues with layers adhesion so I'm going to up the temperature to see how it works :D
Did I mention the matter hackers stick stick?
I need a flexible filament that's soft flexible but has grip . Similar to rubber ? Is this available on the market ?
I just printed TPU 95 A for the first time, and it is soft, flexible, and feels like rubber. The brand I used is Inland TPU in translucent green. What are you using the material for?
@@BLueFeaTHeRedOliVeS I just bought some of this . What temps did you print and what were you bed temps
@@mastermachetier5594 Nozzle Temp 235°C, Bed Temp 65°C, glass bed w/Elmer's washable glue stick (the kind that goes on purple but dries clear). Alternative bed adhesion: Stuck too well to bare painters tape, use the glue stick on top the tape for release agent. Printer is cr10s. Edit: Flow Rate in Cura is 120 and feed rate on the printer is 120 (not sure if this was necessary or due to the fact I had a partial clog in the bowden tube right at the hotend that I diagnosed/discovered right after my TPU prints)
NinjaTek Chinchilla. Perfect replacement for rubber, but maybe a bit "springy-er".
"PLA, ABS, or Nylon"
It's 2021 yo. PETG should definitely come to mind before ABS these days.
Edit: I actually retract this statement. ABS has some clear advantages over PETG in pretty much all scenarios other than chemical resistance. With printers becoming better, I think ABS has more potential to be more widely used.
printed a lot of PETG and while it has it's advantages (and disadvantages like oozing and getting Z offset high enough and nickel plated nozzle), it still fails short to ABS in terms of temperature level it can take before melting. ABS or even better, ASA are 20 °C more temperature resistant (70 °C for PETG, 90 °C for ABS/ASA). That's a lot. Of course, if you want much higher temperature and strike resistance, CF Nylon is a way to go. Well, except for price.
Petg sucks
@@elsunshine9976 actually, it’s much better material than PLA. yes, it’s harder to dial in but it sticks to bed like crazy.
@@ZhuJo99 I've learned a lot about ABS since writing that comment. I agree.
@@Joe_Yacketori it really depends on the brand of filament. Yes, ABS is ideally printed in the chamber, but the one I use from Devil Design (poland), ABS+ is really good and prints easily even on open printer. Sticks like crazy to the glass (using ABS slurry, but seems like I don't need it). No warping, no cracking. I printed even bigger parts, taller parts and layer adhesion is great. Sure, for tall narrow objects it's good idea to use Draft shield to keep heat in the area of printed object, but otherwise it's great.
I would not trust to cheap ABS from chinese companies in terms of quality and printability.
Nero3d has a great set of tutorials on how to print ABS - I strongly suggest to watch it.
With right settings I was absolutely amazed how easily it printed. Yes, there is 100 % chance that I would be bitching on ABS if I would use other filaments but with DD brand I'm very happy. Since I print only functional parts I basically don't order PLA anymore. Will print the rest of PETG I have and done, will use only ABS+ and CF Nylon (for really serious stuff) from Innovatefil or Treed filaments (it's Luvacom german material as a source in both cases).
Biggest advantage of this ABS? Due to it's lower volume weight ratio you get a LOT more of it in 1 kg spool. And spool costs about the same as PLA and is cheaper than PETG :)
What in your opinion is the best matirial for a phone case that I want it to strach in and be flexible? Thank you
*Great helpful video!* _Thank you!_
Wait is the sticky part of the tape up or down?
The sticky part is what contacts the bed so the not sticky side is what the filament sticks to it might sound weird to have the less sticky side or the side that you print on but almost all filaments stick well to the paper like coating of the painters tape
What would you use for shoe soles?
Can you get a review about a metal 3d printer
bad idea bcz all this channel does is point out the good things as they want you to buy one from them, none of their stuff is a reveiw, all advertisements
How do prints that require support work with tpu?
Useless I'm afraid.. because the filament is flexible.. There is no way to accurately calculate the spacing between the support and dense layers. So the support material literally just becomes part of the model
I want to 3dprint rubber but my printer is in my room with my fish tank. Haha sweats nervously when he mentions moisture levels.
I have a E3d hemera that can print anything but TPU!!!, when I go to extrude it my extruded just clicks and doesn’t feed the filament through to the hot end. I’ve tried everything and can’t get it to print, does anyone have any tips for getting it to at least extrude out of my nozzles ?
I had the same issue with my mk3, i suggest that you retighten the extruder gear as og might be too tight, worked for meg at least
Great video but what about fan speed ?
Any suggestions for bowden setups?
Bowden setups are not good for printing flexibles. You'll have to print at very slow speeds like 20mm/sec and retraction turned off and you may still have problems
I have good success printing sainsmart tpu on my stock ender 3. That filament is pretty stiff for tpu so that helps. I print at 210c and speed can vary depending on what I'm printing. If its a basic near solid object I do 40mm/s if its intricate with lots of opportunity for stringing I run between 15-20mm/s
Thank you. I think i will stick with harder filaments until i get better st printing and upgrade printers.
i guess im asking randomly but does someone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly forgot the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Cade Arthur Instablaster ;)
@Wesson Shepherd i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Wesson Shepherd It worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass !
@Cade Arthur Glad I could help xD
Great video, cheers
Great video
5:37 First layer
Print dry looks like a Nesco dehydrator
y print on glass is a pore condor of het win there is better slushes to there
lol a plsa shoe :) funny i had wooden shoes as a kid could be very painfull so pla ight even works but will prob break.
I’m so tired of hearing people talk like robots in their videos, however excellent stuff here!
Beep boop
Garcia Gary Clark Matthew Hernandez Sandra
i thought he said their virginity
Martin Sandra Hall Eric Thompson Brian
~BuY a PrInTdRy!~
Those are just cheap shitty chinese food dehydrators that they make you pay for their sticker on.
Be the first to do a video on the hermera, for flexibles. Or any material for that matter. Stuff all videos about this thing except for the e3d shills doin the reveiws.
Bad advice from a weird lookin peach fuzz dude