Just thought its worth adding that the new stringer added in on the port side is there to resist flexing in the hull, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the design of the boat and its only in particularly bad conditions (big waves) that a standard boat may have an issue. All boats flex a bit, better that they flex a bit rather than break, I'd happily take a Co32 anywhere in the world and if I did I doubt I'd be the first Co32 to visit. I'm aware this is my first video for a few weeks, had had lots of "stuff" going on but really looking forward to finishing Lottie and getting her in the water (almost as much as the owner!)
Music each to their own, enjoyed watching all your videos and some amount of work and techniques being put into Lottie. Didn't realise boat hulls were that thin Gives an insight into a 50 year old fibre glass boat I noticed on past videos, osmosis, bubbles , I always thought it was spideringin the laminate , we learn something. Good to see your skills. 🐼🐼🏴🏴
"Didn't realize boat hulls were that thin" On the flip side, my 1973 Luhrs was built with a very thick hull almost throughout. In fact, while she was estimated to be 15,000 lbs/6,804 kg by her engineers/builders, her series were actually closer to 21,000 lbs/9,525 kg! Which explains why her original 185 hp diesel engines couldn't keep her on plane without one or the other overheating. My grandfather finally replaced them with a pair of 250 hp diesel engines.
Cool music. 😎🤘 Great work - inspired to get on with a Contessa project now - I saw one cheap.. maybe too cheap in might need another £2000 of glass! 😂 You videos are helping me assess my potential projects. ❤🏆 Thank you.
Currently restoring a Kim Holman 'Twister' down here in NZ - I'm starting from a low skill level base...these videos are very helpful from grinding to glassing - it helps me understand the process and reasoning. Many thanks. I'll send you a tip one day - but right now I am a broke boat guy 🙂
I have a question - isn’t there a risk of permanenting any deforming due to the boat standing on the keel? Started watching in the middle of the series so this might have been discussed earlier though :)
@@osten_petersson if properly supported then there is no great risk of hull deformation, most of the weight is in the bottom of the keel and the forward cradle pads are located close to/on a bulkhead so no issues.
Love your work and your Channel. Your music is great as well. One small bit maybe, the music seems to my old ear-bones, very much louder than your melodious voice, and so I always have to lower the volume when the music starts. I need to lower it a lot! It may be my phone that I watch your greatness on. Please keep up your wonderful work. You are a true professional and it's a privilege to watch your skills, talents and expertise.
Hi Jon, you are not the first to say that on the music, on this latest video I have it tuned down in the edit to around 40-50% but maybe I need to go a bit more than that. I appreciate the feedback and pleased you like the content.
@RefitandSail You're a truly gifted presenter, and an awesome technician and true maritime artist. Maybe one or two notches down might be good. Love your musical choices and most of all your skill and workmanship. Truly amazing. Thank you so much for all you do!
@RefitandSail And sir, I did notice the volume was lower. Thank you and I apologize for maybe being a "sound Scrooge"! Your Channel rocks in the best ways possible.
I don't listen to the Audio, so no comments on the music....loiving every minute of the rebuild.. and yes, sanding does get boring... but it also shows JUST HOW MUCH WORK and hours go into a major rebuild like this... love the boat...beautiful lines..... what is the total number of hours and doallar for this rebuild?
Yep, it’s not a quick process to do a refit like this. I do have timesheets for the whole project but have not added up the total. Likewise I would rather not give the total cost for the refit for the benefit of the owner who may wish to keep this confidential .
When using epoxy to laminate against the hull, is it ok to leave the thick piece of well bonded old tabbing and glass over it or should I just grind it down to the hull? BTW, great videos
Hello Boat Butler you're pretty hardcore with your repairs. Strength is not going to be a problem. I was wondering if you're using polyester or epoxy in your laminating?
I use both, it depends on the application as there are situations we one is more appropriate than the other. For this repair the laminating was done with a good quality poly resin.
Great to see Lottie again, she was missed! Just one question... On the new stringer, shouldn't there be any holes (front and back) allowing any water-condensation to escape towards the bilge? And about your music choices... 80's rules! 👍👍
Good question, there will be some limber holes to drain any water, just not put in yet. I need them to run some pipes and maybe cables though the lockers so I will add holes doe them (and drainage) once I know exactly where to pipework will run.
Great video George! Love the music too 😊. Interested in your choices of the ‘splits’ in the bunk boards on the port side - my CO32 has two boards under the long bit of the berth, with shorter squares under the separate lockers at the ends of the ‘dinette’ - these match the bunk cushions making it easier to access the lockers. Does Lottie have a different cushion layout?
When you are getting new upholstery you can get whatever layout you want. Having sailed many co32 my preference on the port side is to have two cushions that run the length of the bunk top along the main and galley bulkheads then an infill for the middle part of the seating (and another infill for the top of the table when lowered. The locker lids reflect this. Pleased you like the video and thanks for the comment
Yet another very interesting video - thanks George. I notice that there is a line of holes along the stringer on the starboard side, and I have the same on MB. I assume it's an old cable run or some other fitting perhaps? Anyhow, should I fill them with something? If the stringer itself is plywood underneath the glass, could that mean that condensation or water from the leak near the chart table bulkhead might have been getting in & potentially causing rot? If so, then sealing the holes might not be a good idea I suppose? Music is great!
I think most of the wires from mast aerials and instruments, as well, as the forward mounted depth transducer, are normally routed through those holes to emerge under the chart table. I have never seen much/any condensation on my boat (lightly crewed, UK based) so I would guess any water is probably a capping or window leak.
Those little holes were for the original cloth pipecots that have been removed on both your boat and this one. No particular need to fill them from a structural point of view, maybe aesthetically they could be filled and painted over but it’s not something I’d loose sleep over. Nice to hear from you John.
I am really enjoying the channel. I am doing a refit on an old hans Christian and would like to know what your hull thickness is in that area. Thanks again for the channel, I know it is a lot of work.
It’s not particularly thick in that area, which is why it really needs the internal strengthening structure to resist flex, your Hans Christian is a much more heavily laid up hull will will rely less in internal supporting structure
Great video. I see some thin vertical ribs in the areas above where you are working. They seem thin and not glassed in well. Also, I notice that you are not concerned about vertical ribs in the space you are working. Are these vertical ribs that are above the space you are working for attaching shelving, and not important to the hull?
Good observation! The vertical ribs above are both structural to resist flex in that area and support a shelf above (the shelf is also effectively a stringer), having sounded all the secondary bonding they are well attached to the hull with no sign of failure so I have no reason to carry out any work to them,. Yes they look thin but are the standard spec for a co32 and I don’t think I have ever seen them fail, there is much more curvature in the hull there than the area I was working so less likely to have a problem. I had considered the “belt and braces” (suspenders if you are in the US) option of adding vertical ribs as you suggested but from my experience with these particular boats don’t think it’s necessary having added the new stringer. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Well, pretty good job IMHO and I have no issue with your musical choices 😇 I have a question : the last layer above is CSM to give a rough surface so that the finishing top coat may stick to easily ?
The glass was laid up with poly laminating resin leaving a slightly tacky uncured top surface, this cures when I overcoat with the poly flowcoat which will get a chemical bond so the texture of the csm doesn’t make much difference. If I was putting gelcoat or paint over an epoxy it would need abrading to ensure a good mechanical bond.
Thanks. I think you are looking at the boxing-in of the under-berth draws. Co32’s don’t normally have draws there but this one does and it looks like they were factory fitted.
@Rich its entirely possible that there will not be any 50 year 30-40 foot Hanse, Beneteau, Bavaria getting the full refit treatment in 2070. Doesnt make them a poor choice in comparison to a 50 year old boat now. Especially if a sailing adventure is Portsmouth to Dartmouth and an expedition is over to Holland.
@@RefitandSail oh, I don’t know… have heard some fancy barking in my day that would curl your fiberglass. 😎Great content as yours doesn’t “really” need music. Keep on!
Yes it’s gelcoat but with the addition of wax which rises to the surface during the cure so you get a non-sticky finish. Gelcoat is normally the first thing put in a mould when making a new boat while flowcoat is used on the inside of a grp moulding to finish off the rough internal surface.
@@RefitandSail George, thanks. I am getting ready to do a few repairs that involve tabbing and was considering painting afterwards but may try flow coat now. Great content, I appreciate the useful info in your videos. I'm looking forward to a video on your varnishing technique / tips! I've tried several varnish brands and so far, the Epifanes Clear w/UV Filters seems to hold up the best in the relentless Florida sun. I really like the way Le Tonkinios flows out smoothly with minimal skill but the UV destroys it in less than six months.
Because the port side settee berth is a different shape to the stbd side linear berth. The side of the berth on the stbd side acts as a continuous stringer between bulkheads but on the port side it did not which I rectify with this mod. I also glass the furniture into the hull rather than having it sit on top of the floor near the mast which helps.
@@churchofthegreenflipflop2436 no worries, it’s not obvious if you don’t know the boat and how they are put together. Probably should have explained in the vid better
Just thought its worth adding that the new stringer added in on the port side is there to resist flexing in the hull, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the design of the boat and its only in particularly bad conditions (big waves) that a standard boat may have an issue. All boats flex a bit, better that they flex a bit rather than break, I'd happily take a Co32 anywhere in the world and if I did I doubt I'd be the first Co32 to visit. I'm aware this is my first video for a few weeks, had had lots of "stuff" going on but really looking forward to finishing Lottie and getting her in the water (almost as much as the owner!)
Music is primo. Enjoy hearing your thoughts and decision making. Thanks.
Music each to their own, enjoyed watching all your videos and some amount of work and techniques being put into Lottie.
Didn't realise boat hulls were that thin
Gives an insight into a 50 year old fibre glass boat I noticed on past videos, osmosis, bubbles , I always thought it was spideringin the laminate , we learn something. Good to see your skills.
🐼🐼🏴🏴
"Didn't realize boat hulls were that thin"
On the flip side, my 1973 Luhrs was built with a very thick hull almost throughout.
In fact, while she was estimated to be 15,000 lbs/6,804 kg by her engineers/builders, her series were actually closer to 21,000 lbs/9,525 kg!
Which explains why her original 185 hp diesel engines couldn't keep her on plane without one or the other overheating.
My grandfather finally replaced them with a pair of 250 hp diesel engines.
Skip Novik is also always off to have "a cup of tea".
I'm in my late 40s so I'm happy with your music taste. 80s vibe or CraftWerk esq is all good. 😁
I don’t own a boat nor have I ever sailed, but I like watching how precise your work is. Keep up the good videos…and thank you for your time.
Thanks for the kind comment, maybe you should give it a go…
Cool music.
😎🤘
Great work - inspired to get on with a Contessa project now - I saw one cheap.. maybe too cheap in might need another £2000 of glass! 😂
You videos are helping me assess my potential projects. ❤🏆 Thank you.
I have a spare co32 in the yard that is a cheap project, available if interested. Needs a fair amount of updating so not for the feint hearted.
@@RefitandSail oh really?
Cool, perhaps I will give you a call in the next week and we can discuss it briefly.
@@johnclark1925 sure, I was thinking to do a video about it to see if anyone wants to take it on but happy to discuss
Enjoying the progress on Lottie. As soon as I find 30k rattling around doing nothing, I'll buy a Contessa 32 and bring it to you to be fettled.
Currently restoring a Kim Holman 'Twister' down here in NZ - I'm starting from a low skill level base...these videos are very helpful from grinding to glassing - it helps me understand the process and reasoning. Many thanks. I'll send you a tip one day - but right now I am a broke boat guy 🙂
Good luck with the refit, the twister is another classic from the same era.
Nice work.
Really useful information thanks
I rather enjoy your "80s montage" music. 😎
Nice work George, as always. Cheers. Andy UK
Great video George, a craftsman at work. Will look forward to the next one.
nice
I like your music choices a lot :)
I have a question - isn’t there a risk of permanenting any deforming due to the boat standing on the keel? Started watching in the middle of the series so this might have been discussed earlier though :)
I’m pleased somone likes the music 😬
@@osten_petersson if properly supported then there is no great risk of hull deformation, most of the weight is in the bottom of the keel and the forward cradle pads are located close to/on a bulkhead so no issues.
Love the music!
Love your work and your Channel. Your music is great as well. One small bit maybe, the music seems to my old ear-bones, very much louder than your melodious voice, and so I always have to lower the volume when the music starts. I need to lower it a lot! It may be my phone that I watch your greatness on. Please keep up your wonderful work. You are a true professional and it's a privilege to watch your skills, talents and expertise.
Hi Jon, you are not the first to say that on the music, on this latest video I have it tuned down in the edit to around 40-50% but maybe I need to go a bit more than that. I appreciate the feedback and pleased you like the content.
@RefitandSail You're a truly gifted presenter, and an awesome technician and true maritime artist. Maybe one or two notches down might be good. Love your musical choices and most of all your skill and workmanship. Truly amazing. Thank you so much for all you do!
@RefitandSail And sir, I did notice the volume was lower. Thank you and I apologize for maybe being a "sound Scrooge"! Your Channel rocks in the best ways possible.
Top notch work, Thanks for showing us
Great videos. Could you explain why used Combi Mat below and CSM top of it? Why not only combi or csm?
enjoy watching your progress, very clean job.
Thanks
Really helpful!
Goodjob as aways but you could use shorter screws lol
Great video George! Informative and enjoyable! Is tempting me to get myself a Contessa!
Thanks, they are good (and pretty) boats.
I don't listen to the Audio, so no comments on the music....loiving every minute of the rebuild.. and yes, sanding does get boring... but it also shows JUST HOW MUCH WORK and hours go into a major rebuild like this... love the boat...beautiful lines..... what is the total number of hours and doallar for this rebuild?
Yep, it’s not a quick process to do a refit like this. I do have timesheets for the whole project but have not added up the total. Likewise I would rather not give the total cost for the refit for the benefit of the owner who may wish to keep this confidential .
When using epoxy to laminate against the hull, is it ok to leave the thick piece of well bonded old tabbing and glass over it or should I just grind it down to the hull? BTW, great videos
Hello Boat Butler you're pretty hardcore with your repairs. Strength is not going to be a problem. I was wondering if you're using polyester or epoxy in your laminating?
I use both, it depends on the application as there are situations we one is more appropriate than the other. For this repair the laminating was done with a good quality poly resin.
Great to see Lottie again, she was missed!
Just one question...
On the new stringer, shouldn't there be any holes (front and back) allowing any water-condensation to escape towards the bilge?
And about your music choices... 80's rules! 👍👍
Good question, there will be some limber holes to drain any water, just not put in yet. I need them to run some pipes and maybe cables though the lockers so I will add holes doe them (and drainage) once I know exactly where to pipework will run.
Great video George! Love the music too 😊. Interested in your choices of the ‘splits’ in the bunk boards on the port side - my CO32 has two boards under the long bit of the berth, with shorter squares under the separate lockers at the ends of the ‘dinette’ - these match the bunk cushions making it easier to access the lockers. Does Lottie have a different cushion layout?
When you are getting new upholstery you can get whatever layout you want. Having sailed many co32 my preference on the port side is to have two cushions that run the length of the bunk top along the main and galley bulkheads then an infill for the middle part of the seating (and another infill for the top of the table when lowered. The locker lids reflect this. Pleased you like the video and thanks for the comment
@@RefitandSail Aha- makes sense! Come to think of it, my 6’ long bunk cushions are a bit of a pain to move around down below…
Yet another very interesting video - thanks George.
I notice that there is a line of holes along the stringer on the starboard side, and I have the same on MB. I assume it's an old cable run or some other fitting perhaps? Anyhow, should I fill them with something? If the stringer itself is plywood underneath the glass, could that mean that condensation or water from the leak near the chart table bulkhead might have been getting in & potentially causing rot? If so, then sealing the holes might not be a good idea I suppose?
Music is great!
I think most of the wires from mast aerials and instruments, as well, as the forward mounted depth transducer, are normally routed through those holes to emerge under the chart table. I have never seen much/any condensation on my boat (lightly crewed, UK based) so I would guess any water is probably a capping or window leak.
Those little holes were for the original cloth pipecots that have been removed on both your boat and this one. No particular need to fill them from a structural point of view, maybe aesthetically they could be filled and painted over but it’s not something I’d loose sleep over. Nice to hear from you John.
I am really enjoying the channel. I am doing a refit on an old hans Christian and would like to know what your hull thickness is in that area. Thanks again for the channel, I know it is a lot of work.
It’s not particularly thick in that area, which is why it really needs the internal strengthening structure to resist flex, your Hans Christian is a much more heavily laid up hull will will rely less in internal supporting structure
Thanks .I appreciate your.
Great video. I see some thin vertical ribs in the areas above where you are working. They seem thin and not glassed in well. Also, I notice that you are not concerned about vertical ribs in the space you are working. Are these vertical ribs that are above the space you are working for attaching shelving, and not important to the hull?
Good observation! The vertical ribs above are both structural to resist flex in that area and support a shelf above (the shelf is also effectively a stringer), having sounded all the secondary bonding they are well attached to the hull with no sign of failure so I have no reason to carry out any work to them,. Yes they look thin but are the standard spec for a co32 and I don’t think I have ever seen them fail, there is much more curvature in the hull there than the area I was working so less likely to have a problem. I had considered the “belt and braces” (suspenders if you are in the US) option of adding vertical ribs as you suggested but from my experience with these particular boats don’t think it’s necessary having added the new stringer. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Well, pretty good job IMHO and I have no issue with your musical choices 😇 I have a question : the last layer above is CSM to give a rough surface so that the finishing top coat may stick to easily ?
The glass was laid up with poly laminating resin leaving a slightly tacky uncured top surface, this cures when I overcoat with the poly flowcoat which will get a chemical bond so the texture of the csm doesn’t make much difference. If I was putting gelcoat or paint over an epoxy it would need abrading to ensure a good mechanical bond.
Nice job
What is the grey / white box inside the sb berth?
Thanks. I think you are looking at the boxing-in of the under-berth draws. Co32’s don’t normally have draws there but this one does and it looks like they were factory fitted.
I wonder what new boat would have been possible with the same budget as purchase + refit costs?
@Rich its entirely possible that there will not be any 50 year 30-40 foot Hanse, Beneteau, Bavaria getting the full refit treatment in 2070. Doesnt make them a poor choice in comparison to a 50 year old boat now. Especially if a sailing adventure is Portsmouth to Dartmouth and an expedition is over to Holland.
Although if I had the boat butler on hand to help and to do much to the non tech work myself it would be a nice option.
Music is a-OK :)
Do you put yourself through the same musical choices you background the videos with? You could sing for us...
No one wants to hear that!
@@RefitandSail oh, I don’t know… have heard some fancy barking in my day that would curl your fiberglass. 😎Great content as yours doesn’t “really” need music. Keep on!
@@jeiversen 😆
What exactly is "flow coat", Gelcoat?
Yes it’s gelcoat but with the addition of wax which rises to the surface during the cure so you get a non-sticky finish. Gelcoat is normally the first thing put in a mould when making a new boat while flowcoat is used on the inside of a grp moulding to finish off the rough internal surface.
@@RefitandSail George, thanks. I am getting ready to do a few repairs that involve tabbing and was considering painting afterwards but may try flow coat now. Great content, I appreciate the useful info in your videos. I'm looking forward to a video on your varnishing technique / tips! I've tried several varnish brands and so far, the Epifanes Clear w/UV Filters seems to hold up the best in the relentless Florida sun. I really like the way Le Tonkinios flows out smoothly with minimal skill but the UV destroys it in less than six months.
How come it is only the port side that needs strengthening? :-)
Because the port side settee berth is a different shape to the stbd side linear berth. The side of the berth on the stbd side acts as a continuous stringer between bulkheads but on the port side it did not which I rectify with this mod. I also glass the furniture into the hull rather than having it sit on top of the floor near the mast which helps.
@@RefitandSail thanks for taking the time to reply :-) Helpful to know.
@@churchofthegreenflipflop2436 no worries, it’s not obvious if you don’t know the boat and how they are put together. Probably should have explained in the vid better
The price of this refit must be mssive.
Plain simple: love your work but hate the "music" ;-)
Thanks for the feedback, it’s always appreciated :-)
Music sucks…. You asked lol
Love the music!