I think the reason your servo was over heating is because of the way the rear linkage arms and the servo arms don't share the same path where they are connected together, meaning the servo was fighting against the geometry of the rear linkage arms all the time to complete its stroke. you could solve this by using a slotted hole in the linkage and a pin in the arm or connecting the top of the shocks directly to the servo arm like on my hotrod chassis
Yea I did wonder about that cause I knew the travel arcs weren't exactly perfect. But I would think once it gets past that point and gets to its top position, it should just hold it there. I found the servo sagged back down a little which led me to believe it wasn't powerful enough and that's when I realized how hot it got. I definitely don't have any issues with it anymore. Really happy with the new links I made and the new servos
I did think about a roll pan!! That would've had a to been done with the other body modifications before paint tho. With how it would need to bolt up and getting the paint right, it would be pretty tough to do at this point
A lot of the parts are 3d printed but not technically the entire chassis. The frame rails are modified scx10 rails and the rear axle and a few of the from parts are existing rc components as well that I just modified
Unfortunately I haven't found another place to run the car. It's been more difficult than I thought to find a flat smooth stretch of pavement for this car. I have a few ideas if I can find a spot but it's been sitting a while unfortunately
i don't know if anyone else has said, but you should switch to FDM prints as the plastic is better than resin from my build experience, i find the resin to be way to brittle compared to fdm printing, and the fact that you could melt screw inserts into the plastic is honestly much better for mechanical parts
I completely agree that fdm prints would be stronger with the current technology and resins available. But with the current fdm printer I have I wouldn't be able to get the quality of prints that I want or print some of the more complex parts due to the support structures needed. If I were to have a printer such as the Bamboo Labs X1 I'd be a lot more comfortable printing these parts on it, but for now the ABS-like resin is working well enough since I'm pretty careful with the truck!
Nice work and creativity with how you solve issues that come up.
Thank you so much! I've learned a lot about suspension and rc engineering in general throughout this project
Perfection is possible but, miracles take a little longer!
I'm definitely a perfectionist, want it to be as perfect as possible. But as an artist as well, I know sometimes you have to stop at some point hahaha
I think the reason your servo was over heating is because of the way the rear linkage arms and the servo arms don't share the same path where they are connected together, meaning the servo was fighting against the geometry of the rear linkage arms all the time to complete its stroke. you could solve this by using a slotted hole in the linkage and a pin in the arm or connecting the top of the shocks directly to the servo arm like on my hotrod chassis
Yea I did wonder about that cause I knew the travel arcs weren't exactly perfect. But I would think once it gets past that point and gets to its top position, it should just hold it there. I found the servo sagged back down a little which led me to believe it wasn't powerful enough and that's when I realized how hot it got. I definitely don't have any issues with it anymore. Really happy with the new links I made and the new servos
easy solution for the rear bumper a roll pan
I did think about a roll pan!! That would've had a to been done with the other body modifications before paint tho. With how it would need to bolt up and getting the paint right, it would be pretty tough to do at this point
Did you 3d print this whole chassis😊
A lot of the parts are 3d printed but not technically the entire chassis. The frame rails are modified scx10 rails and the rear axle and a few of the from parts are existing rc components as well that I just modified
No more drag racing ?????
Unfortunately I haven't found another place to run the car. It's been more difficult than I thought to find a flat smooth stretch of pavement for this car. I have a few ideas if I can find a spot but it's been sitting a while unfortunately
i don't know if anyone else has said, but you should switch to FDM prints as the plastic is better than resin from my build experience, i find the resin to be way to brittle compared to fdm printing, and the fact that you could melt screw inserts into the plastic is honestly much better for mechanical parts
I completely agree that fdm prints would be stronger with the current technology and resins available. But with the current fdm printer I have I wouldn't be able to get the quality of prints that I want or print some of the more complex parts due to the support structures needed. If I were to have a printer such as the Bamboo Labs X1 I'd be a lot more comfortable printing these parts on it, but for now the ABS-like resin is working well enough since I'm pretty careful with the truck!