Phil has done a vid recently showing how to program the chip and he added some extra steps to what you tried. I'll be dammed if I can find it though. Good luck. You'll fix it, you always do!
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Carlos, Detlef and JULIE. I typed the wrong name. Caroline is with Richard McVeigh, Beauty in Sound and I filled his in just before I did yours. Predictive text and I didn't verify.
Richard..essentialy.🤗🤗🤗 Meassure all voltages, look for shorts at caps, meassure the amps at start(connect the 12v, max 300mA without boot). Flash the Eeprom with the right version(look at the board for version number). If nothing helps.. the southbridge is eventuelly faulty.
I've poked my head down long and deep Internet rabbit holes to fix stuff and it's a crap shoot. Sometimes they work and other times they don't and your back down the rabbit hole again. It's always great when a fix works. Sadly most problems these days revolve around corrupt memory either in a microprocessor such as this one or within ROM somewhere else. Most of the time your trying to fix a laptop that's out of production so all that time spent learning the fix is of little value down the road. With the long legged popularity of the PS5 you have a pretty good chance of using any enlightened repair knowledge again in the future.
I picked up a tweezer soldering iron recently for doing things like that bios chip (and other small smd's). Super cheap, and saves blowing other parts off the board.
Definitely don't disregard using that low melt chipqwik to desolder packages like that, yes it can get a bit 'clingy' to clean up but it really helps getting stuff off without hot air, when it's in place over pins on both sides literally a brush by with the iron on one side and then immediately the other side will be melted long enough (couple of seconds) to lift the device off, no hot air needed or risk displacing other components.
Might be worth checking the chip select on the eprom to see if the pattern has changed. It was a bit suspicious that the beeps stopped when you were probing around earlier. Maybe the southbridge needs reflowing??
LOL this shows you don't even know what the chip select is. The pin goes low when it is selected and high when not selected. That's all. Someone who knows what they are doing would check the DO and DI and CLK pins but that's clearly not you LOL! Anyway the chip is not bad. You may want to do some research about how stuff works. Or better don't comment about extremely technical things that you clearly know nothing about LOL!
You didn’t verify your bios dump which will reveal if you selected the correct chip type. If you select the incorrect chip, it will read but will contain errors and some valid data, the verify will confirm this. You can then select different variants until you get a successful read AND verify. This is probably why the app is saying your bios is invalid. …you lost your original bios now… 😢
@teslasapple I'm a bit confused here. I did not select the 'incorrect' chip, I used the generic 25Q16 in 8 pin SOIC and read the contents. How would a verify help as I would be comparing the file I just read from the eprom with the contents I read from the eprom 🙄 When programming the eprom with the new firmware, this automatically does a write verify (as I have that option ticked in MiniPro software) and the verify was good. I programmed the eprom using the same generic 25Q16 option, the write completed OK then the programmer read the contents back and they matched the file. Therefore the eprom programmed correctly, and read back the contents correctly as 25Q16. Before programming the eprom, I saved the original contents and showed this in the video, so how do you logically deduce that I lost the original BIOS?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair …I understand your confusion, but I literally had this situation a few days ago. Multiple options available for the chip and selecting the wrong variant resulted in corrupted dump, proved by verification after a read. It would fail verification instantly. When the correct variant was selected, the dump AND verify were good. You didn’t verify the dump. This is a no no! Maybe you got lucky, re-flash your backup and see if you get back to your original situation. If not… it’s gone. 3 beeps is not always an indicator of corruption. The PlayStation also produces 3 bleeps for invalid button operation e.g. trying to eject a disc when none is present or power button press when it is already processing a shut down request… The bios is the absolute LAST resort. I believe there are other avenues of investigation you could of taken before jumping on the bios. Just my .02
You should try BWE PS5 NOR TOOL V1.2.1 FEATURES: Repair Most 3BOD PS5 Issues Extract PS5 Dumps Patch PS5 Dumps Re-Generate Current Dump & Retain Original Data (Fixes Corruption) Switch Between Disc/Digital via Internal Flags (May Fix SU-101312-8) Toggle IDU Mode Harvest MAC Address Toggle More System Flags (Coming Soon) Validate for Corruption (Multiple Methods) Validate Files/Areas Within NOR Patch/Change Southbridge Compare Bulk NOR Dumps Extract Bulk Dumps Upload Dump (For Research)
I can, though it seems strange as that new file checks valid in C0der app, and the write verified OK when I programed the eprom with it. But I freely admit I am no expert on these PS5
No it would not boot previously, kust three bleeps even before pressing power button. Here's the first video if you didn't see it: ruclips.net/video/dAVVLC4SQbM/видео.html *And I did not lose the BIOS* I saved the original file before trying the new one. I can always flash it back if I want but that seems pointless as it is apparently corrupted anyway, hence the original fault, quite likely it has a bad checksum just like what happened to the new file when I tried editing it with the original drive key.
Checking the chip select is a waste of time.... It's a SPI Flash chip, check the actual DATA pins DO and DI and the CLK pin. Anyway, the eeprom is clearly not corrupt because you have plain text. Single bits would not be bad as the chip writes data in pages and the chip has 8192 pages of 256 bytes each. Use a hex editor to compare the bytes against a known good dump and likely 99.99% of the dump will match the known good dump. eeproms can go bad after some years of reading and writing but the chip is literally brand new so that's unlikely. You can't just swap over a dump from a different ps5. You are barking up the wrong tree and looking in the wrong place and you literally have zero knowledge of how it works. You should stick to repairing things in your area of expertise... which is quite wide but definitely does not cover state-of-the-art PS5 electronics. That's just a waste of (your) time. Drop it and move on, telling the owner to either send it to Sony or someone who has shown they can repair those things in a timely manner. Or buy a new one. Or better, don't buy a new one and stick to PC gaming where there are no limits and repairing it is a simple matter of replacing the motherboard or cpu or ram for very little cost. Nowadays there are very few console-specific titles and most are available across consoles and PCs so just buy the game on PC. Or play older games on emulation where there are easily 1 million games dumped and emulated across all platforms from the late 70's to today.
Keep doing what you do! I would miss you much
Thanks for the PT2 vid Richard and looking forward to PT3. Thanks for all you do and Merry XMAS to you and your family.
excelente clase... por aca un nuevo suscriptor.
Phil has done a vid recently showing how to program the chip and he added some extra steps to what you tried. I'll be dammed if I can find it though. Good luck. You'll fix it, you always do!
Wishing Richard, Caroline, family and friends and staff a Very Happy, Peaceful and Holy Christmas and the very best for the New Year
Hehe my wife read this and now wants to know who Caroline is 😶
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Carlos, Detlef and JULIE.
I typed the wrong name.
Caroline is with Richard McVeigh, Beauty in Sound and I filled his in just before I did yours.
Predictive text and I didn't verify.
You can only update the disc drive via the internet with the new ps5 slim model. Not the one you have.
Richard..essentialy.🤗🤗🤗
Meassure all voltages, look for shorts at caps, meassure the amps at start(connect the 12v, max 300mA without boot).
Flash the Eeprom with the right version(look at the board for version number).
If nothing helps.. the southbridge is eventuelly faulty.
The new firmware I used is the same version as the original contents I read from the eprom
I've poked my head down long and deep Internet rabbit holes to fix stuff and it's a crap shoot. Sometimes they work and other times they don't and your back down the rabbit hole again.
It's always great when a fix works.
Sadly most problems these days revolve around corrupt memory either in a microprocessor such as this one or within ROM somewhere else.
Most of the time your trying to fix a laptop that's out of production so all that time spent learning the fix is of little value down the road.
With the long legged popularity of the PS5 you have a pretty good chance of using any enlightened repair knowledge again in the future.
I picked up a tweezer soldering iron recently for doing things like that bios chip (and other small smd's). Super cheap, and saves blowing other parts off the board.
Definitely don't disregard using that low melt chipqwik to desolder packages like that, yes it can get a bit 'clingy' to clean up but it really helps getting stuff off without hot air, when it's in place over pins on both sides literally a brush by with the iron on one side and then immediately the other side will be melted long enough (couple of seconds) to lift the device off, no hot air needed or risk displacing other components.
Might be worth checking the chip select on the eprom to see if the pattern has changed.
It was a bit suspicious that the beeps stopped when you were probing around earlier. Maybe the southbridge needs reflowing??
LOL this shows you don't even know what the chip select is. The pin goes low when it is selected and high when not selected. That's all. Someone who knows what they are doing would check the DO and DI and CLK pins but that's clearly not you LOL! Anyway the chip is not bad. You may want to do some research about how stuff works. Or better don't comment about extremely technical things that you clearly know nothing about LOL!
Master expert you are , people will learn at the end if you like it or not 😂@@g4z-kb7ct
I know there are lots of repair videos, of laptops and games machines. love the fault finding.👍
I like how your PSU shows "666" at startup.
Yeah there is a little devil in there 😈
Reflashing the bios .. fear of the brick.
What about fixing the ps5 ethernet disconnect annoying-Ness. Is it because I have an older model?
You didn’t verify your bios dump which will reveal if you selected the correct chip type. If you select the incorrect chip, it will read but will contain errors and some valid data, the verify will confirm this. You can then select different variants until you get a successful read AND verify.
This is probably why the app is saying your bios is invalid.
…you lost your original bios now… 😢
@teslasapple I'm a bit confused here. I did not select the 'incorrect' chip, I used the generic 25Q16 in 8 pin SOIC and read the contents. How would a verify help as I would be comparing the file I just read from the eprom with the contents I read from the eprom 🙄
When programming the eprom with the new firmware, this automatically does a write verify (as I have that option ticked in MiniPro software) and the verify was good. I programmed the eprom using the same generic 25Q16 option, the write completed OK then the programmer read the contents back and they matched the file. Therefore the eprom programmed correctly, and read back the contents correctly as 25Q16.
Before programming the eprom, I saved the original contents and showed this in the video, so how do you logically deduce that I lost the original BIOS?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair …I understand your confusion, but I literally had this situation a few days ago. Multiple options available for the chip and selecting the wrong variant resulted in corrupted dump, proved by verification after a read. It would fail verification instantly.
When the correct variant was selected, the dump AND verify were good.
You didn’t verify the dump. This is a no no!
Maybe you got lucky, re-flash your backup and see if you get back to your original situation. If not… it’s gone.
3 beeps is not always an indicator of corruption.
The PlayStation also produces 3 bleeps for invalid button operation e.g. trying to eject a disc when none is present or power button press when it is already processing a shut down request…
The bios is the absolute LAST resort. I believe there are other avenues of investigation you could of taken before jumping on the bios.
Just my .02
could you tell me recording camer model??
You should try BWE PS5 NOR TOOL V1.2.1
FEATURES:
Repair Most 3BOD PS5 Issues
Extract PS5 Dumps
Patch PS5 Dumps
Re-Generate Current Dump & Retain Original Data (Fixes Corruption)
Switch Between Disc/Digital via Internal Flags (May Fix SU-101312-8)
Toggle IDU Mode
Harvest MAC Address
Toggle More System Flags (Coming Soon)
Validate for Corruption (Multiple Methods)
Validate Files/Areas Within NOR
Patch/Change Southbridge
Compare Bulk NOR Dumps
Extract Bulk Dumps
Upload Dump (For Research)
Why don't You just short to "press power button" ? Too much work to reassemble 😂
So far the three beeps is an indication of a corrupted bios chip, don't know why it didn't fix your problem try flashing the bios again.
I can, though it seems strange as that new file checks valid in C0der app, and the write verified OK when I programed the eprom with it. But I freely admit I am no expert on these PS5
Give it a whack sometimes it helps LOL...... 🤣
Why WAS it booting when you apply power? Is the power button circuit working correctly? Could be stuck low🤷🏼♂️ AND now you lost the bios
No it would not boot previously, kust three bleeps even before pressing power button. Here's the first video if you didn't see it:
ruclips.net/video/dAVVLC4SQbM/видео.html
*And I did not lose the BIOS* I saved the original file before trying the new one. I can always flash it back if I want but that seems pointless as it is apparently corrupted anyway, hence the original fault, quite likely it has a bad checksum just like what happened to the new file when I tried editing it with the original drive key.
Checking the chip select is a waste of time.... It's a SPI Flash chip, check the actual DATA pins DO and DI and the CLK pin. Anyway, the eeprom is clearly not corrupt because you have plain text. Single bits would not be bad as the chip writes data in pages and the chip has 8192 pages of 256 bytes each. Use a hex editor to compare the bytes against a known good dump and likely 99.99% of the dump will match the known good dump. eeproms can go bad after some years of reading and writing but the chip is literally brand new so that's unlikely. You can't just swap over a dump from a different ps5. You are barking up the wrong tree and looking in the wrong place and you literally have zero knowledge of how it works. You should stick to repairing things in your area of expertise... which is quite wide but definitely does not cover state-of-the-art PS5 electronics. That's just a waste of (your) time. Drop it and move on, telling the owner to either send it to Sony or someone who has shown they can repair those things in a timely manner. Or buy a new one. Or better, don't buy a new one and stick to PC gaming where there are no limits and repairing it is a simple matter of replacing the motherboard or cpu or ram for very little cost. Nowadays there are very few console-specific titles and most are available across consoles and PCs so just buy the game on PC. Or play older games on emulation where there are easily 1 million games dumped and emulated across all platforms from the late 70's to today.