Great guide Trish, many thanks. Always worth a look incase you have assumed you have done things correct when you haven't :) I would like to know a bit more in simple terms how raising and lowering/ lengthening or shortening camber/roll links on front or back of the car works. Like rasing the rear link on a LD by 6mm over the stock setting. Why is it better :)
Great Vid Trish! I have been running the 2 hole 1.8/2.1 combo on bumpy high grip indoor clay on both my Laydown and L1 and really like it. I build my shocks the same way only, I like to leave the bleeder screw out when I install the cap, bleed off the excess oil and install the bleeder screw with the shock compressed. Then I pump it up and do the 2nd bleed. Perfect every time =)
Great vid, many thanks, this is the type of info I have been after. Would like you to expand on oils and springs and which to use on different track conditions and surfaces and what the changes achieve.
Great vid👍Only thing I would add is on the rear shocks don’t forget to put the tiny black O ring over the shaft to limit the stroke so you don’t blast your bones and out drives on hard landings . Also maybe inform people that there is an aluminum upgrade shock cap available as well that I fancy a whole lot 😉
Trish, thanks. Just a couple of questions: your demo shows aerations shocks (right?) being built, setup sheets refer to sealed and vented shocks (rarely used?), but which track conditions does each shock type apply to best, or to keep it simple is aeration good for all tracks? Secondly, setup sheets also refer to both internal limiters (o-rings on the shaft below the piston & inside the body), external limiters (o-rings on the shaft above the ball cup outside the body), I get that these can adjust shock length uncompressed and or compressed, but what track types require either of these adjustments with what effect? Ta.
Thank you for all the videos I find them very helpful. Could you please do a video on the Cat XLS diffs? I have just bought a XLS kit and would love to see you assemble one before I build it. Thanks again. Steve
I would love to build a kit with you as you use some daft words to describe something that I would use lol so we would probably end up laughing at each other most of the time , the next and last kit I will build will be in the next few days if the kit is delivered today is the MI9 which disappointedly looks very easy to build as someone got their kit yesterday and have built it already someone on facebook, but because I have terminal cancer I won’t be able to afford the latest CAT 4wd car kit or the LD3 2WD KIT and because I won’t be able to race them either as off road is weather dependable but I am determined to enjoy building this MI9 kit and racing with it health permitting but I do love the way you interact with your subscribers 👍
Hi Trish, So for AstroTurf your recommendation for the rear is green springs with 2-hole pistons drilled out to 2.1mm - what is the purpose of enlarging the 2 piston holes vs a 3 hole piston? Also, how did you set up the fronts for AstroTurf?
Am running a kc and my rear shock shaft has play, moves around side to side, shocks not leaking... Do I need to replace the o rings... Get a rebuilt kit. Really informative video cheers
2nd query, I don't see how far the shock then rebounds back in when extended all the way out. My shocks when compressed almost have no rebound 2-3 mm, but then when pulled all the way back out, retract on their own bout 8-10mm is this normal with non bladder shocks.. ive tried to see this in other videos but cant see if the shocks then rebound back inwards and if so how far
If after pumping the shock and doin a dbl bleed, if you then take the cap off and see a bunch of air bubbles is that normal, it doesn't feel normal but after bout 6 times over I get the same result.
Brenton Foggo if there are bubbles after pumping its perfect that means it’s now aeriated. The reason we bleed the shocks is so there all the same, the air is introduced through the shock o rings to achieve this.
I have seen a few shock builds where you don't screw the shock seal housing all the way on (say only 75%) before pushing through the threaded shaft and piston assembly, this supposedly is because you are trying to not load or put pressure on the new shock seals while drawing / pushing through the threaded end of the piston shaft and thus not risking the seals tearing at this point in the build? Thoughts? ruclips.net/video/-hU6B9Z62hw/видео.html
Lesson learned for today, keep your fingers free from grease for biscuits and I do like a biscuit haha. Thanks for the build guide :)
Great guide Trish, many thanks. Always worth a look incase you have assumed you have done things correct when you haven't :)
I would like to know a bit more in simple terms how raising and lowering/ lengthening or shortening camber/roll links on front or back of the car works. Like rasing the rear link on a LD by 6mm over the stock setting. Why is it better :)
Great Vid Trish!
I have been running the 2 hole 1.8/2.1 combo on bumpy high grip indoor clay on both my Laydown and L1 and really like it.
I build my shocks the same way only, I like to leave the bleeder screw out when I install the cap, bleed off the excess oil and install the bleeder screw with the shock compressed. Then I pump it up and do the 2nd bleed. Perfect every time =)
Great vid, many thanks, this is the type of info I have been after. Would like you to expand on oils and springs and which to use on different track conditions and surfaces and what the changes achieve.
Yes! And also about the pistons, please. What to change first, pistons or oil? Down- and upstop shims...
Great vid👍Only thing I would add is on the rear shocks don’t forget to put the tiny black O ring over the shaft to limit the stroke so you don’t blast your bones and out drives on hard landings . Also maybe inform people that there is an aluminum upgrade shock cap available as well that I fancy a whole lot 😉
Video for how you check your car before each run or maybe what maintenance you do
Great video. And appreciate the humor in them.
Ideal. We'll add it to our how to play list
Great video Trish.
Trish, thanks. Just a couple of questions: your demo shows aerations shocks (right?) being built, setup sheets refer to sealed and vented shocks (rarely used?), but which track conditions does each shock type apply to best, or to keep it simple is aeration good for all tracks?
Secondly, setup sheets also refer to both internal limiters (o-rings on the shaft below the piston & inside the body), external limiters (o-rings on the shaft above the ball cup outside the body), I get that these can adjust shock length uncompressed and or compressed, but what track types require either of these adjustments with what effect? Ta.
Great video. We want more!!!!
Love the videos! How about a video on swaybar installation, tuning, selection, etc?
Great video👍 can we have general summary of pistons/oils/springs combo. Thanks Trish for posting these videos, very interesting 🍻🏁
Thank you for all the videos I find them very helpful.
Could you please do a video on the Cat XLS diffs? I have just bought a XLS kit and would love to see you assemble one before I build it.
Thanks again.
Steve
Great video Trish, do you ever put the spring cup on when you bleed the shock? Do you have a favourite biscuit? 🤔😝
I would love to build a kit with you as you use some daft words to describe something that I would use lol so we would probably end up laughing at each other most of the time , the next and last kit I will build will be in the next few days if the kit is delivered today is the MI9 which disappointedly looks very easy to build as someone got their kit yesterday and have built it already someone on facebook, but because I have terminal cancer I won’t be able to afford the latest CAT 4wd car kit or the LD3 2WD KIT and because I won’t be able to race them either as off road is weather dependable but I am determined to enjoy building this MI9 kit and racing with it health permitting but I do love the way you interact with your subscribers 👍
Hiya Trish do you use two hole pistons drilled to 2.1 on the front as well as the rear also what front springs do you recommend for Astro .thanks
Hi Trish,
So for AstroTurf your recommendation for the rear is green springs with 2-hole pistons drilled out to 2.1mm - what is the purpose of enlarging the 2 piston holes vs a 3 hole piston? Also, how did you set up the fronts for AstroTurf?
I’d like to know more about the shock limiters inside the shock, why do you use them? Are they just orings?
I wish they still made that blue tamiya threadlock in a metal tube it was gummy feeling I loved it.
Hi Trish, Thanks for the video, really helped me out. Would you mind letting me know what you would recommend for the front shocks on Astro turf ?
Am running a kc and my rear shock shaft has play, moves around side to side, shocks not leaking... Do I need to replace the o rings... Get a rebuilt kit.
Really informative video cheers
Awesome stuff thank you
Whats the tool u used to measure the shock length?
2nd query, I don't see how far the shock then rebounds back in when extended all the way out. My shocks when compressed almost have no rebound 2-3 mm, but then when pulled all the way back out, retract on their own bout 8-10mm is this normal with non bladder shocks.. ive tried to see this in other videos but cant see if the shocks then rebound back inwards and if so how far
Marmite, come on Trish man up. Go with Vegimite 🇦🇺 the real deal 🤣
If after pumping the shock and doin a dbl bleed, if you then take the cap off and see a bunch of air bubbles is that normal, it doesn't feel normal but after bout 6 times over I get the same result.
Brenton Foggo if there are bubbles after pumping its perfect that means it’s now aeriated. The reason we bleed the shocks is so there all the same, the air is introduced through the shock o rings to achieve this.
phew it was doin my head in thanks
I have seen a few shock builds where you don't screw the shock seal housing all the way on (say only 75%) before pushing through the threaded shaft and piston assembly, this supposedly is because you are trying to not load or put pressure on the new shock seals while drawing / pushing through the threaded end of the piston shaft and thus not risking the seals tearing at this point in the build? Thoughts? ruclips.net/video/-hU6B9Z62hw/видео.html
mark bruton-young that makes sence but with some o ring grease I’ve never had the issue. If your in doubt it’s a good idea.