Great video...except for one problem - the lock washer. Up to that point, you were 100% correct. However, even when using a washer with a smaller OD, it's still possible to cause binding within the bearing. In RC, we use a lot of washers...to go between bearings & gears inside of transmission, to go between bearings & wheel hexes on axle stubs, to move ball ends further from other parts, etc. Taking just one of those examples - the washers between the bearings & wheel hexes - even though the washer is small enough that it's only touching the bearing's inner race, if the wheel nut is tightened too much, putting excess pressure on the wheel & wheel hex, it can lead to the washer being pressed against the bearing's inner race tightly, causing the bearing to seize. With the above example, there is even pressure against the bearing...but, again, because the pressure is excessive, it causes the bearing to seize. The 'solution' to this problem is to simply loosen the wheel nut just slightly, releasing some of the pressure. However, in using a lock washer, you can't actually do that, because, as long as there's any pressure pushing the lock washer against the bearing, there will always be greater pressure against the inner race at a single point, causing pressure against the inner race to NOT be even. Replacing the washers with washers having a smaller OD is, definitely, the correct solution...but, you NEED to replace those lock washers with standard flat washers. If you don't, sooner or later, the 'point' of the lock washers could damage the bearings...and, if that happens while you're riding (especially if riding at higher speed), the end-result could be disastrous. Do whatever you want, as it's your life...but, I would HIGHLY recommend replacing those lock washers with flat washers as soon as possible
@@ScootTaBai You're welcome. Just as I'm willing to help others in RC, I'm also willing to help people in other hobbies/activities...especially when I see something that could potentially lead to injuries. I know sealed bearings help keep dirt out...that's exactly why we use them in off-road RC vehicles (as opposed to metal-shielded, or 'open', bearings)...but, I wasn't referring to the bearings. I was referring specifically to the washers, and potential problems that could be caused by using lock washers, as opposed to flat washers. Lock washers are excellent when needing a washer AND some sort of "push back resistance" (such as a spring would also provide)...but, when only needing to "separate" two parts (such as a wheel & bearing), that's when flat washers are what's best. It's kind of like knowing when to use blue threadlock, and when to use red threadlock.
Absolute truth, I did it and it rides much better! Steering dumper should be also redesigned as is on fighter... Shocks are not something, thinking of changing them with fox ones.
The washer is a 26 mm diameter now. That's what ships in the scooter now. I think could still be slightly too big. I'm replacing them with a 25 mm diameter washer. But now I'm having problems with the brake caliper being uneven against the rotor.
Just to inform everybody, I put RockShox Monarch RL 165x38 as front suspension to test it and it is HUGE difference, not only the ride is better, comfier but it is safer!
Good tip I am going to do this to my Teverun fighter 11 plus. Question do you know the torque specs for the swing arm bolts ? Also have you done any actual adjustments to the shock itself such as preload or adjusting the firmness?
I did 25lbs/in for the swing arm bolts and put a drop of blue threadlock. As for the suspension, this is the configuration best for my weight (73kg) so far - 2 threads in front, 3 threads high in the back for the spring, 6 points less from max slow (S) for the rebound.
@@ScootTaBai thanks for that info! I am a bit heavier than you and I set my springs to show 5-6 threads on front. 2-3 threads showing on rear. Then I turned my rebound all the way clockwise towards S then backed it off one click at the end.
You should adjust your spring to be stiffer at back where most of your weight is. More threads showing = more stiffer (already compressing the spring). Less compression, the softer.
Hi Scoot,I am considering installing these washers to see how they will improve ride quality on my GT+.The theory behind it makes sense,and I am curious to see the difference this change makes. What specific size washer should I use in terms of the inner and outer diameter and thickness.Looking closely,I can tell the inner diameter of the new washer is slightly smaller. These specs would ensure that the correct size is ordered. Thanks!
@Scoot Ta Bai My appreciation🙏 for replying with the optional washer sizes and your contribution to the Blade GT+ community is highly valued. I will update you on how the suspension reacts after purchasing and installing the new washers.
@Campo246 Thank you for your input. Everyone, including yourself who has installed the reduced size washers,is definitely in agreement with the huge difference they have made to the suspension system. I plan to do the same soon!
Get a shoulder washer. The way I see it there are five solutions, maybe more, but mainly, just go with a shoulder washer. The factory washer of the blade gt is actually the correct size to protect the bearing against direct water and dirt ingress by splash from the side. The engineers had the good idea to have washer large enough to act as a fender for whole the bearing face, but badly applied the idea. If you take a smaller washer like you did, mechanically it is correct (even though a split ring washer is not good, go with a flat), but then you're creating a dirt and water accumulation and ingress point because now the bearing is partially naked. What is not correct from factory is the form of the washer, what you need is not a flat washer (and not a split lock washer etheir), you need same size washer than the factory but what's called a shoulder washer. The simplest solution is to insert next to the factory washer a thin contact washer to act as shoulder, and then add the felt pad or a thinner large washer (maybe teflon ?) that's just occupy the space and avoid dirt accumulation. With a shoulder washer the axle nut torque force is correctly applied only to the inner bearing ring, but the outer part is still protected against direct splash water/dirt ingress and less of a dirt collector without pressing on the bearing outer ring. Of course the shoulder washer has to be installed on the correct side (shoulder facing the bearing). If you want to go the extra mile, you can plug the shoulder gap with a felt washer pad to really have the assembly almost waterproof but still not pushing against the bearing outer ring if the felt pad is not too thick. Shoulder washer + felt pad is how it is done on motorbikes wheel bearings. Other solution, just get a small flat washer and add etheir a feld pad washer to cover the whole bearing (I think dualtron does that solution for their suspension assembly), or a large washer that thinner than the small washer. Getting to the gritty details but I also think the chamfer on the inside hole facing the bearing is important, since the axle seems to have a flaring, it would be best if the washer does not sit on the axle flare. The state of art solution would be the full brass sliding inserts like Weped, honestly you can't beat that, it's simpler and less fragile than bearings, while still as efficient for this application.
Nice observation and recommendation sir. I was in a hurry to ride and so grab the first washer i saw in the shop that exactly the size i need. The sealed bearing helps the dirt out, hence i got no issues so far and its been a year now.
Hi I bought the blade gt and one of the caps on the side arrived a little cracked and after I hit the door accidentally it cracked even more I was sent replacement parts but don’t know how to repair it do you have any tips?
Hi, Bro. Very good recommendation and advice to check my new teverun fighter 11+. I suppose mine haze the same issue with suspension. I have the video of the suspension sound. How to send you ? If it is possible you to help me.
the problem is not in washers. the problem is with bike assembler hands, he tightened the nut too tight!I I unscrewed the nut with lever. three of four nuts stayed together bushing. who buys the blade now, check those nuts
Regardless if tighten or not, technically washer should be smaller than the outer bearing for it to function properly. Loosening it up is just a patch up remedy but risky. Loose bolt or nuts is not recommended.
@@ScootTaBai if the nut comes off,structure will not fall apar. there is simply no need for additional clamping.there is plastic in the nut,you can always add blue liquid to enhance.I ordered brass washers m14x2x28,in the end i will do 15,9x2x25.need the right washers, so that the dirt did not go into the bearing,washers not pinch the bearing balls
good day sir. if you can't find the correct size washer from your local hardware store, use an angle grinder and grind the existing washer to the right size
@@ScootTaBai hello again. An update to this. It works so well! I took my scooter apart today. The washers were so dirty and don't spin very well anymore The new washers work really good. Also put grease too which helps. Such a big difference. Thansk again!
I am not sure if the Blade X pro is having the same problem, but if yes, it should be the solution. Check the washer if its bigger than the ball bearing.
Respect from Greece 🇬🇷!!!!!👌🙏🙏 I have a basic misunderstanding.....🤔 Your motors magnets are 5 cm or 6 cm......????🤔 I believe they are 6 cm magnets (same motors with Nami) .. but if they are 5 cm it has difference... Thanks 🙏
Hi @Antony. Thank you. I don't know what is the size of the motor magnet with Blade GT, but based from our speed run test head to head againts Nami Burn E 2, Blade GT+ is faster.
Yes, big time. Before i change the washer, the scooter was riding like a rock. It doesnt feel like a premium scooter at all, after the change it was smooth as butter. I can already manage big road humps and offroading.
If you can't find them from your local hardware store or autoshops, and if you have and know how to use a grinder, you can grind the existing washer to your desired size.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I was wondering why the suspension felt so stiff, I’ll be replacing the washers
Great video...except for one problem - the lock washer. Up to that point, you were 100% correct. However, even when using a washer with a smaller OD, it's still possible to cause binding within the bearing.
In RC, we use a lot of washers...to go between bearings & gears inside of transmission, to go between bearings & wheel hexes on axle stubs, to move ball ends further from other parts, etc. Taking just one of those examples - the washers between the bearings & wheel hexes - even though the washer is small enough that it's only touching the bearing's inner race, if the wheel nut is tightened too much, putting excess pressure on the wheel & wheel hex, it can lead to the washer being pressed against the bearing's inner race tightly, causing the bearing to seize.
With the above example, there is even pressure against the bearing...but, again, because the pressure is excessive, it causes the bearing to seize. The 'solution' to this problem is to simply loosen the wheel nut just slightly, releasing some of the pressure. However, in using a lock washer, you can't actually do that, because, as long as there's any pressure pushing the lock washer against the bearing, there will always be greater pressure against the inner race at a single point, causing pressure against the inner race to NOT be even.
Replacing the washers with washers having a smaller OD is, definitely, the correct solution...but, you NEED to replace those lock washers with standard flat washers. If you don't, sooner or later, the 'point' of the lock washers could damage the bearings...and, if that happens while you're riding (especially if riding at higher speed), the end-result could be disastrous. Do whatever you want, as it's your life...but, I would HIGHLY recommend replacing those lock washers with flat washers as soon as possible
Nice observation and recommendation sir. So far no issues encountered for a year or riding. The sealed bearings provided help in keeping the dirt out.
@@ScootTaBai You're welcome. Just as I'm willing to help others in RC, I'm also willing to help people in other hobbies/activities...especially when I see something that could potentially lead to injuries. I know sealed bearings help keep dirt out...that's exactly why we use them in off-road RC vehicles (as opposed to metal-shielded, or 'open', bearings)...but, I wasn't referring to the bearings. I was referring specifically to the washers, and potential problems that could be caused by using lock washers, as opposed to flat washers.
Lock washers are excellent when needing a washer AND some sort of "push back resistance" (such as a spring would also provide)...but, when only needing to "separate" two parts (such as a wheel & bearing), that's when flat washers are what's best. It's kind of like knowing when to use blue threadlock, and when to use red threadlock.
Thanks for the tip, that makes sense! I'm going to try that.
Good video. THANK YOU 🇨🇦.
Salamat ng marami sa video mo bro ang laki ng pinag bago ng suspension ko nong pinalitan ko ng washers sobrang smooth na nya not like before 😊
I do this to my teverun fighter 11plus and its work,my scooter have better suspension now thanks to your video bro 😊
Your welcome bro.
Absolute truth, I did it and it rides much better! Steering dumper should be also redesigned as is on fighter... Shocks are not something, thinking of changing them with fox ones.
Thank you sir. There are still a lot to iron out with build but overall it is an awesome scooter.
Ano pong size nung washer?
Guys can i know where did you buy the washer online?
and thanks for the good content on the blade gt+!!
Smart, love your videos bro thank you so much!
Thank you bro. RS!
The washer is a 26 mm diameter now. That's what ships in the scooter now. I think could still be slightly too big. I'm replacing them with a 25 mm diameter washer. But now I'm having problems with the brake caliper being uneven against the rotor.
Thank you for the updates sir.
Just to inform everybody, I put RockShox Monarch RL 165x38 as front suspension to test it and it is HUGE difference, not only the ride is better, comfier but it is safer!
Nice suspension sir. RS!
Good tip I am going to do this to my Teverun fighter 11 plus. Question do you know the torque specs for the swing arm bolts ? Also have you done any actual adjustments to the shock itself such as preload or adjusting the firmness?
I did 25lbs/in for the swing arm bolts and put a drop of blue threadlock. As for the suspension, this is the configuration best for my weight (73kg) so far - 2 threads in front, 3 threads high in the back for the spring, 6 points less from max slow (S) for the rebound.
@@ScootTaBai thanks for that info! I am a bit heavier than you and I set my springs to show 5-6 threads on front. 2-3 threads showing on rear. Then I turned my rebound all the way clockwise towards S then backed it off one click at the end.
You should adjust your spring to be stiffer at back where most of your weight is. More threads showing = more stiffer (already compressing the spring). Less compression, the softer.
@@ScootTaBai ok I followed the suspension setup guide from electric scooter guide for a Nami burn e since it uses the same hydraulic shocks.
Hi Scoot,I am considering installing these washers to see how they will improve ride quality on my GT+.The theory behind it makes sense,and I am curious to see the difference this change makes.
What specific size washer should I use in terms of the inner and outer diameter and thickness.Looking closely,I can tell the inner diameter of the new washer is slightly smaller.
These specs would ensure that the correct size is ordered.
Thanks!
They use 3x17x30mm washer. Look for anything smaller outside diameter. Ex: 3x17x22mm or 3x17x26mm
@Scoot Ta Bai My appreciation🙏 for replying with the optional washer sizes and your contribution to the Blade GT+ community is highly valued.
I will update you on how the suspension reacts after purchasing and installing the new washers.
You are welcome sir. Its already tested and proven :) some of our Teverun users shared their positive experience in the comments as well
It makes such a big difference brooo! I did mine today. It's like a whole new scooter
@Campo246 Thank you for your input. Everyone, including yourself who has installed the reduced size washers,is definitely in agreement with the huge difference they have made to the suspension system.
I plan to do the same soon!
que llave necesito para apretar tuerca de la suspensiom ?
Do you recommend doing it on a blade gt2 plus?
boss panu po malaman ang sukat ng suspension sa blade GT?
Get a shoulder washer. The way I see it there are five solutions, maybe more, but mainly, just go with a shoulder washer.
The factory washer of the blade gt is actually the correct size to protect the bearing against direct water and dirt ingress by splash from the side.
The engineers had the good idea to have washer large enough to act as a fender for whole the bearing face, but badly applied the idea.
If you take a smaller washer like you did, mechanically it is correct (even though a split ring washer is not good, go with a flat), but then you're creating a dirt and water accumulation and ingress point because now the bearing is partially naked.
What is not correct from factory is the form of the washer, what you need is not a flat washer (and not a split lock washer etheir), you need same size washer than the factory but what's called a shoulder washer.
The simplest solution is to insert next to the factory washer a thin contact washer to act as shoulder, and then add the felt pad or a thinner large washer (maybe teflon ?) that's just occupy the space and avoid dirt accumulation.
With a shoulder washer the axle nut torque force is correctly applied only to the inner bearing ring, but the outer part is still protected against direct splash water/dirt ingress and less of a dirt collector without pressing on the bearing outer ring. Of course the shoulder washer has to be installed on the correct side (shoulder facing the bearing).
If you want to go the extra mile, you can plug the shoulder gap with a felt washer pad to really have the assembly almost waterproof but still not pushing against the bearing outer ring if the felt pad is not too thick. Shoulder washer + felt pad is how it is done on motorbikes wheel bearings.
Other solution, just get a small flat washer and add etheir a feld pad washer to cover the whole bearing (I think dualtron does that solution for their suspension assembly), or a large washer that thinner than the small washer.
Getting to the gritty details but I also think the chamfer on the inside hole facing the bearing is important, since the axle seems to have a flaring, it would be best if the washer does not sit on the axle flare.
The state of art solution would be the full brass sliding inserts like Weped, honestly you can't beat that, it's simpler and less fragile than bearings, while still as efficient for this application.
Nice observation and recommendation sir. I was in a hurry to ride and so grab the first washer i saw in the shop that exactly the size i need. The sealed bearing helps the dirt out, hence i got no issues so far and its been a year now.
How did u straighten the lock washer?
You can have it pressed or hammer it.
Boss wala po bang review pano mag play ang swing arms after paltan nyo ng washer
Pasensya na boss hindi ko na insert yung video. Pero ang laki talaga ng difference after I change the washer.
you got to set it up for your weight bro but the wrong washer on it thats terible bro glad you sorted it
Thanks for your feedback bro
@@ScootTaBai no worries who spotted the washer was to big lol good spottin
Hi I bought the blade gt and one of the caps on the side arrived a little cracked and after I hit the door accidentally it cracked even more I was sent replacement parts but don’t know how to repair it do you have any tips?
Hi Aries. Which cap you are referring? The plase orange accent design?
Bro may idea ka ba paano mag lagay ng speed limit relay with remote sa teverun?
I'm still researching on it bro. I think Nami has a switch for that. Very useful with HPG checkpoints. 😀
Sir may idea kaba kung pano mag repair ng stearing ng blade x may alog na kasi di ko alam pano baklasin salamat.
Pa send lang ng video chat sir sa Fb ko para matingnan natin ano ang issue. Kasi may squeaking sound dati blade ko, at did something para mawala.
Hi, Bro. Very good recommendation and advice to check my new teverun fighter 11+. I suppose mine haze the same issue with suspension. I have the video of the suspension sound. How to send you ? If it is possible you to help me.
Hello bro. Send me a chat on my fb page Scoot Ta Bai. I should be able to help you better.
@@ScootTaBai will try to download the fb and send it to you. I have not used fb yet
the problem is not in washers. the problem is with bike assembler hands, he tightened the nut too tight!I I unscrewed the nut with lever. three of four nuts stayed together bushing. who buys the blade now, check those nuts
Regardless if tighten or not, technically washer should be smaller than the outer bearing for it to function properly. Loosening it up is just a patch up remedy but risky. Loose bolt or nuts is not recommended.
@@ScootTaBai if the nut comes off,structure will not fall apar. there is simply no need for additional clamping.there is plastic in the nut,you can always add blue liquid to enhance.I ordered brass washers m14x2x28,in the end i will do 15,9x2x25.need the right washers, so that the dirt did not go into the bearing,washers not pinch the bearing balls
@@drvova1752 So you are recommending smaller washer or no?
@@Lordhavemercy254 yes, I bought copper ones from Ali.14:25:2 mm.
can u show the difference in live driving?!
I'll make a video on it. A full review of the Blade GT with all the findings and fixes I've made.
Has this issue been fixed from the factory yet?
I hope they did. My seller informed me that he showed my video to Teverun and claim they will do something about it.
Thanks for your videos, can anyone have a link to aliexpress to this washers? 3x16x22, i can't find anything
Its not in shopee sir. Just go to any hardware or automotive store that sell bolts and washer.
Hello.
Im from australia and am having a hard time finding the right size washer for this. Do you know of anywhere I can buy it online?
Thanks
good day sir. if you can't find the correct size washer from your local hardware store, use an angle grinder and grind the existing washer to the right size
@@ScootTaBai true I might to do that. I have a fighter 11+ but the issue is still the same
thanks
@@ScootTaBai hello again. An update to this.
It works so well! I took my scooter apart today. The washers were so dirty and don't spin very well anymore
The new washers work really good. Also put grease too which helps.
Such a big difference. Thansk again!
THanks you !!
will this work as well for the blade x pro??
I am not sure if the Blade X pro is having the same problem, but if yes, it should be the solution. Check the washer if its bigger than the ball bearing.
Respect from Greece 🇬🇷!!!!!👌🙏🙏
I have a basic misunderstanding.....🤔
Your motors magnets are 5 cm or 6 cm......????🤔
I believe they are 6 cm magnets (same motors with Nami) .. but if they are 5 cm it has difference...
Thanks 🙏
Hi @Antony. Thank you. I don't know what is the size of the motor magnet with Blade GT, but based from our speed run test head to head againts Nami Burn E 2, Blade GT+ is faster.
Do you think it really makes a big difference?
Yes, big time. Before i change the washer, the scooter was riding like a rock. It doesnt feel like a premium scooter at all, after the change it was smooth as butter. I can already manage big road humps and offroading.
@@ScootTaBai Thank you 🙏 Do you know where I could find the new washer? I can't find them in stores 😔
I'm looking for M16x25x3 or M116x26x3
If you can't find them from your local hardware store or autoshops, and if you have and know how to use a grinder, you can grind the existing washer to your desired size.
i think the teverun 11plus has the same issue with hydraulic suspension!!!
Yes sir it does. Same solution, just replace the washer
This is true thanks
oi starring ko haha
Next time napod. Hehwhw